Thank so very much can tell you how much I appreciate it. Three mechanics have come to see the same truck you have in the video and neither one couldn’t find what was wrong with it. Until I saw your video.
Glad this video helped solve the problem. A word of advice, if your mechanics don't understand the basic principles of how a starter works, they shouldn't be working on your car!
The solenoid on a starter such as the one you have Does three things. Inside it are actually two sets of windings, one winding is a high current "pull in" winding that actually pulls the bendix into the flywheel. This picks up switched 12 VDC from the small terminal on the solenoid and grounds through the low resistance starter motor windings. The second winding is the "Hold" winding, which actually holds the solenoid in. This winding takes much less current to hold the solenoid in than the pull in windings. This winding grounds to the solenoid body. The solenoid also closes a high current contact internally to feed the high amperage to the motor windings. So, the sequence of events, starter solenoid gets the start signal at the small terminal. This pulls the solenoid in engaging the bendix to the flywheel ring gear. Once the solenoid contacts close, and the starter motor windings are switched to 12 volts, there is no longer a voltage potential across the pull in windings leaving the much lower current hold windings to keep the solenoid pulled in. Remember, the starter motor windings are extremely low resistance, so the pull in winding sees them as a direct path to ground.
Bill, did you copy and paste that off google? (dont think you did) You have an incredible amount of various knowledge. Always look forward to your comments and wisdom.
My first thought on diagnosis would be to make sure the muffler bearings were not shorting out. But you've shown a more direct and logical approach. Am I the only one that got excited at the sound of success at 12:38 ?
Whenever I get the truck fixed, I used a heavy duty jack to lift up the truck for more room and yes for replacing Starter is a pain in the butt unless you take your time installing. Especially draining and refill transmission fluid its same thing. So its best to use jack to lift up truck then you can have more room to replace parts. I usually put 2 bolts back in but instead the third bolt I leave out because its too tight and u can't see what u doing.
3:40 when jumping the solenoid like that its much safer to jump the little signal stud and the constant 12v instead. This will result in passing less current through your tool. When you jump the 2 big studs together you are making all the current required to start the vehicle directly through the tool and bypassing the solenoid all together. When you jump the 12v with the little stud. It simply uses enough current to tell the solenoid to operate. Source: been starting my truck in this fashion since before this video was made.
2 quick Question not being a smart ass or anything like that doesn’t that only work on standard transmission vehicles ???? just for my knowledge if it won’t jump (start) is the starter bad ???
@@yep5689 1: no, the truck I was starting like that was an automatic. This procedure is basically bypassing all the electrical in the truck and turning on the starter by hand. Works with only automatic as a manual needs the clutch pressed too. 2: correct if the above procedure doesn’t work the starter itself is bad.
Good diagnosis Hunter! That starter was nasty looking! I was trying to help you hold the starter up to the engine so you could start the bolts and hand you tools but we live just a little to far away from each other! "I'll get you the shallow socket!" LOL Great video by the way!
I just had the same problem with a 2007 f150 5.4l Triton. I bridged it with a screw driver. You have to have someone in the truck and start it while you bridge it and then it works fine
ok I thought my starter was out so i put the extra key in the ingnition for the shop when the tow truck takes it. by accident I turned the key and guess what? That could have been expensive. Battery, starter, wiring kit... ect. till they got to the key being worn out.
Did the solenoid just click before. I have a 2003 expedition has power turn key and all I get is a click at the solenoid. Relay seems good . has power all the way to the starter but no crank just clicks. If you could let me know that would be great. Thank you
@@lawnstar1441 how did it go? Mine doesnt do anythimg like his , his is the only video where i could find where he said there was no noise, every other video said there was a click . Gonna tackle in morn.
@@jeromerodriguez5510 yes turned out to be the positive cable on the starter. Had a bad spot in the cable where it had rubbed on the frame and caused it to lose power when trying to crank over. Changed the connecting terminal and the positive cable from starter to battery and solved the click but no crank issue.
Definitely a PIA, but well worth the savings of having someone else repair it. I absolute hate taking things to a mechanic. Unless its an engine rebuild, I will always try and tackle the job myself. Usually makes for interesting videos
SnowPlowLife is there anyway you could share a link to the starter you bought? And has it held up? I have a 06 4.6 and I want to price starter solenoid combos and they wanted 170 at a minimum at the auto part stores. Don’t get me started on the prices at shops. I’m a diy guy and appreciate your video as it gives me confidence that I can do this job myself and I like your price point a lot better
Perhaps you need to educate yourself on what dielectric grease is actually for. It isn’t for increasing electrical connectivity. In fact, it’s just the opposite, it’s non conductive. It’s purpose is to seal out moisture and corrosion only. It does not conduct electricity
Thank so very much can tell you how much I appreciate it. Three mechanics have come to see the same truck you have in the video and neither one couldn’t find what was wrong with it. Until I saw your video.
Glad this video helped solve the problem. A word of advice, if your mechanics don't understand the basic principles of how a starter works, they shouldn't be working on your car!
The solenoid on a starter such as the one you have Does three things. Inside it are actually two sets of windings, one winding is a high current "pull in" winding that actually pulls the bendix into the flywheel. This picks up switched 12 VDC from the small terminal on the solenoid and grounds through the low resistance starter motor windings. The second winding is the "Hold" winding, which actually holds the solenoid in. This winding takes much less current to hold the solenoid in than the pull in windings. This winding grounds to the solenoid body. The solenoid also closes a high current contact internally to feed the high amperage to the motor windings. So, the sequence of events, starter solenoid gets the start signal at the small terminal. This pulls the solenoid in engaging the bendix to the flywheel ring gear. Once the solenoid contacts close, and the starter motor windings are switched to 12 volts, there is no longer a voltage potential across the pull in windings leaving the much lower current hold windings to keep the solenoid pulled in. Remember, the starter motor windings are extremely low resistance, so the pull in winding sees them as a direct path to ground.
Bill, did you copy and paste that off google? (dont think you did) You have an incredible amount of various knowledge. Always look forward to your comments and wisdom.
@@OldSoulMillennial Thanks Hunter, that was all my wording on how starters work. Now to discuss how air starters work, or hydraulic starters. hehe
@@OldSoulMillennial Is this the right starter for a 2005 f150 5.4 3 v ?
My first thought on diagnosis would be to make sure the muffler bearings were not shorting out.
But you've shown a more direct and logical approach.
Am I the only one that got excited at the sound of success at 12:38 ?
Yes
Whenever I get the truck fixed, I used a heavy duty jack to lift up the truck for more room and yes for replacing Starter is a pain in the butt unless you take your time installing. Especially draining and refill transmission fluid its same thing. So its best to use jack to lift up truck then you can have more room to replace parts. I usually put 2 bolts back in but instead the third bolt I leave out because its too tight and u can't see what u doing.
3:40 when jumping the solenoid like that its much safer to jump the little signal stud and the constant 12v instead. This will result in passing less current through your tool.
When you jump the 2 big studs together you are making all the current required to start the vehicle directly through the tool and bypassing the solenoid all together. When you jump the 12v with the little stud. It simply uses enough current to tell the solenoid to operate.
Source: been starting my truck in this fashion since before this video was made.
2 quick Question not being a smart ass or anything like that doesn’t that only work on standard transmission vehicles ???? just for my knowledge if it won’t jump (start) is the starter bad ???
@@yep5689 1: no, the truck I was starting like that was an automatic. This procedure is basically bypassing all the electrical in the truck and turning on the starter by hand. Works with only automatic as a manual needs the clutch pressed too.
2: correct if the above procedure doesn’t work the starter itself is bad.
Good diagnosis Hunter! That starter was nasty looking! I was trying to help you hold the starter up to the engine so you could start the bolts and hand you tools but we live just a little to far away from each other! "I'll get you the shallow socket!" LOL Great video by the way!
I just had the same problem with a 2007 f150 5.4l Triton. I bridged it with a screw driver. You have to have someone in the truck and start it while you bridge it and then it works fine
Good job brotha.
great video thank-you
Great video!
Thanks Daniven
I bet the wire between the solenoid and the starter burned off. They work great until they don’t,
ok I thought my starter was out so i put the extra key in the ingnition for the shop when the tow truck takes it. by accident I turned the key and guess what? That could have been expensive. Battery, starter, wiring kit... ect. till they got to the key being worn out.
When doing tight small places don’t use gloves and put something on the floor and get on your back
I got a 04 that don't crank by key. I bridge out starter with key on it cranks an still don't start?? Have new fuel pump an fuel pump modular thing
Did the truck even give a single click prior to fix? Or dead silent?
If I remember correctly, no click. But the 12v+ ignition wire going to the start solenoid was producing 12v when I turned the key.
So why Mechanic talk to ford company to change the way the starters are setup in the car Japanese cars are so easy to change
Did the solenoid just click before. I have a 2003 expedition has power turn key and all I get is a click at the solenoid. Relay seems good . has power all the way to the starter but no crank just clicks. If you could let me know that would be great. Thank you
same here. just a click. I am replacing the starter right now and I will let you know if it works MAtt.
@@lawnstar1441 how did it go? Mine doesnt do anythimg like his , his is the only video where i could find where he said there was no noise, every other video said there was a click . Gonna tackle in morn.
Any luck guys
@@jeromerodriguez5510 yes turned out to be the positive cable on the starter. Had a bad spot in the cable where it had rubbed on the frame and caused it to lose power when trying to crank over. Changed the connecting terminal and the positive cable from starter to battery and solved the click but no crank issue.
Must be a miner.
70 bucks now
Gotta love inflation
Looks as though you saved yourself a big pile of cash with another self repair. I’m guessing about a 400 to 500 dealer repair.
Definitely a PIA, but well worth the savings of having someone else repair it. I absolute hate taking things to a mechanic. Unless its an engine rebuild, I will always try and tackle the job myself. Usually makes for interesting videos
SnowPlowLife is there anyway you could share a link to the starter you bought? And has it held up? I have a 06 4.6 and I want to price starter solenoid combos and they wanted 170 at a minimum at the auto part stores. Don’t get me started on the prices at shops. I’m a diy guy and appreciate your video as it gives me confidence that I can do this job myself and I like your price point a lot better
Perhaps you need to educate yourself on what dielectric grease is actually for. It isn’t for increasing electrical connectivity. In fact, it’s just the opposite, it’s non conductive. It’s purpose is to seal out moisture and corrosion only. It does not conduct electricity
i didnt hear where he said its for conductivity, but he did use it correctly to help protect it from corrosion
Wow Amateur hour lol I can tackle this job in 15 min with a 1/4 ratchet an extension
Can you tell me how..? I am about to attempt this