First time I found one of these and not the two conventional locking rings with pin hole washer I was a bit concerned...Then to my surprise I found out how easy and dependable these are! Great video! FYI, I think theres some sort of in/lb range torque spec...im hunting for it now...
I found a ford-looking diagram, It claims you do want to seat the bearing at 70 ft lbs. I think the ratchet is designed to break away at desired torque? You then back it off 90 degrees like the older style. You re-seat it at 15-20 ft lbs and it shouldnt be more than 20 in lbs to rotate the entire wheel or you're too tight.
This process is NOT correct. The ratcheting lock nut is specifically designed to prevent over tightening. You tighten until the nut binds up on the pawl and stops turning. (Takes about 30ftlbs). The method your using is actually for a normal nut!
Straight from a ford service manual on a rear full floating. Torque to 70 lb/ft and back off 90 degrees and re-torque to 18 lb/ft. This was for a full floating Dana 80 though. Same design essentially, just on the rear floating hubs.
@@DEFCONPRODUCTIONSLLC yes It does, I just did rear hubs on a Dana 80 at my work today lol. Followed the service manual and had no issues. In fact all full floating rear axle hubs I have removed used a wratcheting nut similar to this video.
Anyone want to see a real ball joint. Google 1983 Toyota 22r motor. Crawl under Neath the truck n look at the front tires. And see what they ride on. A ball joint big as a basket ball. No shit. Drove to British Columbia 2 cups oil. 300 on gas. Best truck hands down. I even was driving it. Back end was totally off the leaf springs I nocked them off on a short hydrant went under will I was backing up hydrant was 3 feet went under even I did know until standard driving back truck was coming over to my front window. I was holy shit. Tied axel to a tree and drove away bam right in where it was.
Bud you have to SEAT THE BEARINGS!!!! Torque it to 60-70 ft-lbs while turning the wheel, back off 1/4 turn, then torque to 15-20 ft/lb. The way you just did it the thing is gonna come loose in 100 miles. Read the manual!!! Otherwise good video.
must be the aprentices first day,it aint got no freinds,you have to understand what that truck weighs & the presure on the wheel when you drive or turn.its a 2.5 ton truck,not a blond,pity bout the grease on rear of rotor.mmmm
First time I found one of these and not the two conventional locking rings with pin hole washer I was a bit concerned...Then to my surprise I found out how easy and dependable these are! Great video! FYI, I think theres some sort of in/lb range torque spec...im hunting for it now...
I found a ford-looking diagram, It claims you do want to seat the bearing at 70 ft lbs. I think the ratchet is designed to break away at desired torque? You then back it off 90 degrees like the older style. You re-seat it at 15-20 ft lbs and it shouldnt be more than 20 in lbs to rotate the entire wheel or you're too tight.
www.2carpros.com/questions/correct-method-for-tightening-ratcheting-hub-nut
I've been paranoid since I bought it. Was definitely concerned. This video just helped me forget that concern. Only took me a day or two to find heh
What size of socked did you use on the nut?
Nice, good vid. Thanks!
Wonder how many people tightened their hubs wrong thanks to this video...
thank you . now I can put my f-junk back together lol..
This process is NOT correct. The ratcheting lock nut is specifically designed to prevent over tightening. You tighten until the nut binds up on the pawl and stops turning. (Takes about 30ftlbs). The method your using is actually for a normal nut!
i thought the torque specs called for an initial 70 lbs torque, then a 90 degree back off, followed by a 20 ft lbs torque?
You cant reach 70ftlbs with these ratcheting nuts. It will bind or jump before you get there. Like I said, you can only get about 30ftlbs in it.
Straight from a ford service manual on a rear full floating. Torque to 70 lb/ft and back off 90 degrees and re-torque to 18 lb/ft. This was for a full floating Dana 80 though. Same design essentially, just on the rear floating hubs.
The Dana80 floating does not use this ratcheting nut.
@@DEFCONPRODUCTIONSLLC yes It does, I just did rear hubs on a Dana 80 at my work today lol. Followed the service manual and had no issues. In fact all full floating rear axle hubs I have removed used a wratcheting nut similar to this video.
Anyone want to see a real ball joint. Google 1983 Toyota 22r motor. Crawl under Neath the truck n look at the front tires. And see what they ride on. A ball joint big as a basket ball. No shit. Drove to British Columbia 2 cups oil. 300 on gas. Best truck hands down. I even was driving it. Back end was totally off the leaf springs I nocked them off on a short hydrant went under will I was backing up hydrant was 3 feet went under even I did know until standard driving back truck was coming over to my front window. I was holy shit. Tied axel to a tree and drove away bam right in where it was.
que medida es la llave para aflojar tuerca
Socket sizeeee!!!!!!?
Bud you have to SEAT THE BEARINGS!!!! Torque it to 60-70 ft-lbs while turning the wheel, back off 1/4 turn, then torque to 15-20 ft/lb. The way you just did it the thing is gonna come loose in 100 miles. Read the manual!!! Otherwise good video.
must be the aprentices first day,it aint got no freinds,you have to understand what that truck weighs & the presure on the wheel when you drive or turn.its a 2.5 ton truck,not a blond,pity bout the grease on rear of rotor.mmmm
You do not touch the rotor brake surface or the new brake pad surface with you dirty greasy fingers. AT ALL.
You've heard of brake clean?
@@craigroesberry3316 Thats a way to try to fix a mistake you should not make in the first place.
@@randallgoguen3463 you do you. I'll use the brake cleaner.
@@DeusTex-Mex and if thats your "way of thinking" you shouldn't be allow under a hood.