I’m not great at editing just messing around with it lol. But I just tried to think of the quickest way to get the information out without making a long video. I figured if I’m doing the work and it’s not on RUclips I might as well make a video and if it helps one person it’s worth it.
OTC also makes a socket that fits over the spindle nuts, it's part number 7158. Also depending on your hub locker you might not need those axle spline shaft washers that you said were missing. My Mile Marker hub wouldn't fit on with any of the washers. I downloaded their pdf installation instructions and it showed the washers with the original auto hubs but not installed with the locking hubs. Also I called mile marker a few years ago when I was having trouble finding the lock washer that you are also missing. They told me it isn't needed and the big locking split washer willl hold it in. I'm still gonna look for one from the junk yard though.
Thanks for the info. I still haven’t found them. I’m going to the junkyard soon need a new driveshaft I had a u joint go out and did a little damage lol.. I always look for washers when I go. I know auto lockers are different
Great video. I have a 94’ model dana with the calipers that are held in with clips. It have the ford 3 bolt locking hubs, which from my understanding are 95-96. I’m not sure if I should have 3 thrust washers or just the one with spines and the snap ring. Also where does the snap ring seat? Cheers!
How did you slide the axle shaft outward? I just changed out a D50 TTB for a D60 on my F250 and used my D50 hubs and rotors. There is indeed a slot on the shaft for a lock ring before the locking hub?? 🤔👍
So if your trying to remove the axle shaft itself out of the D50 the passenger side will come out ( a couple hard pulls or pry bar) But the drivers side has a C clip inside the diff housing.
I'm missing the plastic washer as well on both sides. The snap ring/lock ring that holes these washers on. I didn't notice a slot on my D60 shafts. That's why I'm asking. Went to install my D50 parts on this D60 that it required and I find out there's no slot for a snap ring 🤷♂️. (Hubs and rotors-out.)
Thanks for your video! I also have a '96 F-250, and something on the hub assembly is causing the wheel to be loose.. the shop told me the ball and u-joints looked fine, so they think it's the wheel bearings. Did you replace both the spindle needle bearings and the inner and outer wheel bearings for this repair? Is there any way to tell which set of bearings needs replacement? And what is the likelihood that the hub housing or spindle itself would be in need of replacement? Thanks for any help you can give.
Carsten Thue-Bludworth I replaced all of the bearings.. these no way to tell until you pull it apart.. any wear on a bearing surface and it needs replaced .. I put new races in
Polyurea grease can’t be used with any other grease if you half to use lucus marine or red and tacky lucus they are compatible the green isn’t compatible and will dry out and get hard it’s ment for sealed bearings sealed peace’s of farm equipment heavy duty parts that may not get the attention as easy access bearings you can use it but you half to keep using it don’t mix with anything else polyurea is why if you care to know!
Hey Jessie! This is actually the first F250 SD with the same hubs as the one I'm working on. Do you have the footage of the hub disassembly? I thin my spindle is cracked or broken and can't get the piece out that the cap screws into. Every video of other hub I've seen has the thing slipping right out. Any help would be a blessing. Thanks in advance. God bless and stay well.
Thank you for the video! My 96 f250 hubs were running hot and i changed out bearings. I followed the directions to the ford shop manual which is the same as yours. After driving they still get hot! There is no unusual brake wear that would warrant a problem there. I've come to a conclusion that they are suppose to get hot to certain extent. But what is too hot? Thanks!
No problem….can you touch them without getting burned? … I would say getting over 200 degrees Fahrenheit your getting into failure rang it depends on what the grease can handle.
@@4Snuffalufagus Hello Jessie! Thank you for taking time to reply! I ordered a infrared thermometer to accurately measure the temp on my hubs. Here's what I came up with! It was 95° yesterday at 2pm and I drove on the interstate for one hour and the hubs were 115°. Then I did some errands in town and when I got home they were 165°. I used mystik jt7 grease on my bearings which is rated -10° to 325°. Doesn't this sound like these are normal temperatures tha a hub should run? Thanks!
here's where i got the socket from. i would recommend getting this one. the one i have is hard to use when trying to torque the nut down.torqueking.com/product/881110/qt1110i-high-torque-4-prong-spindle-nut-wrench/
I’m sure you can . Your seating the bearing. Then your adjusting the bearing. Just make sure you don’t have any play and the wheel spins free without locking up.
Thank you so much for the 2 videos if it wasn't for you my truck wouldn't be getting fixed
Awesome hopefully the repair goes smooth 👍
Thanks for going into detail about torque specs and preload, really helps a lot
No problem. A break place did the breaks on this truck and they screwed it all up so I figured it would be nice to let everyone know lol
sweet video nice help Ive done allot of these but years back and well older now so thanks
Thanks for the video. Just what I needed to see
No problem ..I need to do some more work to the truck wish I could do more videos but I have to wait for a problem lol
Thanks for the vid! Helped out a lot 🍻
No problem glad it helped
Really like how you edit your video's, thanks for the knowledge will be put to use soon! Have the typical axle play at the hub.
I’m not great at editing just messing around with it lol. But I just tried to think of the quickest way to get the information out without making a long video. I figured if I’m doing the work and it’s not on RUclips I might as well make a video and if it helps one person it’s worth it.
OTC also makes a socket that fits over the spindle nuts, it's part number 7158. Also depending on your hub locker you might not need those axle spline shaft washers that you said were missing. My Mile Marker hub wouldn't fit on with any of the washers. I downloaded their pdf installation instructions and it showed the washers with the original auto hubs but not installed with the locking hubs. Also I called mile marker a few years ago when I was having trouble finding the lock washer that you are also missing. They told me it isn't needed and the big locking split washer willl hold it in. I'm still gonna look for one from the junk yard though.
Thanks for the info. I still haven’t found them. I’m going to the junkyard soon need a new driveshaft I had a u joint go out and did a little damage lol.. I always look for washers when I go. I know auto lockers are different
Is there anyway you could give me a breakdown of every part that goes inside the hub please
torqueking.com/xv1010-1995-1997-ford-f250-dana-50ifs-front-axle-exploded-view/
Page 10 has the exploded view
Great video
Thank you
Well done! Thank you Jessie!
Good job
Hey man here do you get the lock nut socket? I can’t find it.
torqueking.com/product/881110/qt1110i-high-torque-4-prong-spindle-nut-wrench/ this is the one I would recommend
Great video. I have a 94’ model dana with the calipers that are held in with clips. It have the ford 3 bolt locking hubs, which from my understanding are 95-96. I’m not sure if I should have 3 thrust washers or just the one with spines and the snap ring. Also where does the snap ring seat? Cheers!
How did you slide the axle shaft outward? I just changed out a D50 TTB for a D60 on my F250 and used my D50 hubs and rotors. There is indeed a slot on the shaft for a lock ring before the locking hub?? 🤔👍
So if your trying to remove the axle shaft itself out of the D50 the passenger side will come out ( a couple hard pulls or pry bar) But the drivers side has a C clip inside the diff housing.
If you watch part 1 and fast-forward to 5:00 you will see how I pulled the axle out
ruclips.net/video/7ydCMcMhw_E/видео.htmlsi=lDv0-fhKuJFMJnRO
I'm asking about the D60. That's why I'm asking about the lock ring. Lol
I'm missing the plastic washer as well on both sides.
The snap ring/lock ring that holes these washers on. I didn't notice a slot on my D60 shafts. That's why I'm asking.
Went to install my D50 parts on this D60 that it required and I find out there's no slot for a snap ring 🤷♂️. (Hubs and rotors-out.)
Thanks for your video! I also have a '96 F-250, and something on the hub assembly is causing the wheel to be loose.. the shop told me the ball and u-joints looked fine, so they think it's the wheel bearings. Did you replace both the spindle needle bearings and the inner and outer wheel bearings for this repair? Is there any way to tell which set of bearings needs replacement? And what is the likelihood that the hub housing or spindle itself would be in need of replacement? Thanks for any help you can give.
Carsten Thue-Bludworth I replaced all of the bearings.. these no way to tell until you pull it apart.. any wear on a bearing surface and it needs replaced .. I put new races in
You might want to watch part 1 I put all the bearings in
Polyurea grease can’t be used with any other grease if you half to use lucus marine or red and tacky lucus they are compatible the green isn’t compatible and will dry out and get hard it’s ment for sealed bearings sealed peace’s of farm equipment heavy duty parts that may not get the attention as easy access bearings you can use it but you half to keep using it don’t mix with anything else polyurea is why if you care to know!
Thank you for the video, Jessie. Quick question: Where did you purchase the inner and outer wheel bearings?
I got all my parts from here torqueking.com I probably should put it in the description lol
@@4Snuffalufagus Thank you so much man! That may help
@@kevinsxntamaria no problem hope the video helped
What would cause am axel to have side to side play the u joints seem ok....I think there is some parts missing
If I’m not mistaken the drivers side will pull out. The passenger side has a clip holding it in. It will have some play
Hey Jessie! This is actually the first F250 SD with the same hubs as the one I'm working on. Do you have the footage of the hub disassembly? I thin my spindle is cracked or broken and can't get the piece out that the cap screws into. Every video of other hub I've seen has the thing slipping right out. Any help would be a blessing. Thanks in advance. God bless and stay well.
Here is the disassemble video ruclips.net/video/7ydCMcMhw_E/видео.html .. there’s a snap ring that holds it in. If this doesn’t help let me know
My 97 is missing the snap ring washers and the boot on the axel shaft
I still need to get my washer trying to find the correct axle in the junkyard is hard I just need to order them
Thank you for the video! My 96 f250 hubs were running hot and i changed out bearings. I followed the directions to the ford shop manual which is the same as yours. After driving they still get hot! There is no unusual brake wear that would warrant a problem there. I've come to a conclusion that they are suppose to get hot to certain extent. But what is too hot? Thanks!
No problem….can you touch them without getting burned? … I would say getting over 200 degrees Fahrenheit your getting into failure rang it depends on what the grease can handle.
@@4Snuffalufagus Hello Jessie! Thank you for taking time to reply! I ordered a infrared thermometer to accurately measure the temp on my hubs. Here's what I came up with! It was 95° yesterday at 2pm and I drove on the interstate for one hour and the hubs were 115°. Then I did some errands in town and when I got home they were 165°. I used mystik jt7 grease on my bearings which is rated -10° to 325°. Doesn't this sound like these are normal temperatures tha a hub should run? Thanks!
@@randysimpson8248 I would say that sounds fine … as long as your not getting in the mid 200 rang you should be good
@@4Snuffalufagus Thanks!
What did u torque the outer nut of your truck. I know is 160 to 205 what do u recommend it at.
I did 160lb manly because of the socket I had.
Where did u buy the spindle nut socket, would you happen to have the size? Thanks
here's where i got the socket from. i would recommend getting this one. the one i have is hard to use when trying to torque the nut down.torqueking.com/product/881110/qt1110i-high-torque-4-prong-spindle-nut-wrench/
What are the part numbers on the bearings, seal, etc. that you used? Changing my bearings, 97 f250 7.3L
Marcus Hatter this is the website I got my parts. torqueking.com/category/1980-1997-ford-f250-f350-dana-50ifs-front-axle/
What is that socket tool to take off those spindle nuts
I would recommend this one torqueking.com/product/1110/qt1110-usa-made-4-lug-spindle-nut-socket-dana-50-dana-60-front-axles/
Can you use that same torque spec. for 50 ft-lb and back off a 1/4 turn on a 86 Chevy 3/4 ton K20 truck? Thank you
I’m sure you can . Your seating the bearing. Then your adjusting the bearing. Just make sure you don’t have any play and the wheel spins free without locking up.
Do you have a part number or something for your favorite tool for that axle nut?
W83010 performance tool sold at advance
@@stevenwolf91 Thank you!
torqueking.com/product/1110/qt1110-usa-made-4-lug-spindle-nut-socket-dana-50-dana-60-front-axles/ ...... i like this one.
@@4Snuffalufagus Thank you.