I love manual chokes. Full control. If you know what you're doing they're really easy to operate. For 90% of the year in Houston you don't even need to operate the choke. When you do need it it's completely under your control. Manual transmission, manual choke. That's real driving.
I have a 1950 dodge B2B the manual choke and manual throttle make it stupid easy to worm up and to start in 30 below weather. Electric fuel pump just makes it a instant turn over
I grew up around many "mechanics" and some were so lazy or just not educated about holley's they went to edelbrocks because out of the box they just "worked" but as I got older I learned how generic the other carbs are, and Holley's once set, perform best, I really would like to see more videos on a new setup, jets floats, to tuning and aligning with timing.. I know too many still who crank idle up to help "solve" issues that hurt things longrun??? Thanks for this video!
We will see how this does on my 292 Ford F250. I got the 1850-16. That is replacing the 1850-1. I originally had a Carter 2 barrel. The Holley 1850-1 was needing to be rebuilt but it was difficult to find a rebuild kit for that carburetor. I put a adapter plate on the intake manifold. I have the manual choke on my truck. The new carb should work well.
I've had great luck with Holley's over the years. What I wished is that Holley would put out actual saving mula coupons every now n then. I tend to use the 4160's also.
I have a 68 nova with a 383 stroker. Not sure about motor specs but pretty sure it's about 10 to 1 compression and a hydraulic roller cam. Auto trans with 3000 stall and 3.73 gears. Stock mechanical fuel pump. Should I get a different fuel pump as well? What size carb?
Well I got a mostly stock 1965 Ford Mustang with the C code engine and I wonder what carb I oughta get for it. Factory automatic (but I plan to swap to manual eventually), so what should I do? Which two barrel should I get or do I convert to 4? Also I would prefer to have a manual choke as it does get cold in winter here in NC
A morning did somebody out there that can help me decide which tunnel I am and which carburetors I should put on the 496 and building for the drags only
great info..I always over carb my motor and play hell to get it to function correctly...I knew a dbl.pumper 750cfm too much for 350 chevy,now I have math to prove it..thankyouwhat size jets should I start with if I have 350 chevy with fuler head 202 and a 650 cfm,vac. secondary???
Hi there, good video. I own a valiant with a 318 v8 mild motor, has a stage two 340 cam, bit of head work, upgraded ignition and re graphed distributor, 340 Chrysler 4 barrel manifold, block huggers and currently im running a rebuilt 600 holley vac sec square bore, the motor runs fine but its going through way too much fuel. The auto has a 2500 domiantor stall and stage 2 shift kit, and running 2.92 highway gears lsd diff. Its tuned up and timing is correct, have pulled spark plug and they aren`t black and fouled. Im thinking a change in carby is best suited. I know i want a manual choke and vac sec operated. Would a 570 Street Avenger be better suited for the street? I don`t want it to be starving for fuel but i want it to not waste as much as it is too. What would you suggest for good economy and street performance? Thanks
I'm going to need some more info... You say the engine is going thru fuel but the plugs are not black? How is it using too much fuel? is not getting good MPG? The spark plugs are a tell-tale sign of the air/fuel ration in your engine (a light coffee color is optimal). One concern i see right away is the stall and gear ratio combo! I'm assuming you're running a 727 trans?? The torque converter is probably slipping at highway speeds with that tall of a gear and that high of a stall. What are the RPMs at 50,60, and 70 mph? That will tell you how much slip there is in the converter. Start there first. Thx J
On my car, the dash mounted AutoMeter vacuum gauge never goes down to zero vacuum. Not even at steady WOT for 10-15 seconds. It goes dawn to app 3-5 hg. Vacuum at idle is app 18 hg Doesn't that indicate a too small carburetor? Engine is a 350 CSB, vortec heads, .533 lift cam.
unfortunately as carburetors die off in the major car market, being replaced by fuel injection, its becoming more of a trade subject rather than a highschool class. Although some highschools still have mechanics classes that im sure go over carburetors.
I just wish Holley would say piss on the B.S., and offer their own twist of Barry's "Badman" inline 4, including the Badman intake manifold. That was a sad loss for not just the carb side, but the aftermarket induction industry as a whole. The potential that induction system had for engines below 700hp was INSANE.
And with all those different chokes look for their lastest release of their new painted chokes, their artichoke line! Lol sorry my brain just miss fired! Lol
What is the weight break in pounds that a lightweight vehicle ends and medium weight or heavy vehicle begins? 1800 lbs, 2500 lbs, 3000 lbs, etc. ? I'm sure I seen it in an old brochure, but don't recall the general guideline weight. Since this was some time ago and a vehicle that was considered lightweight back then and what is considered lightweight now may be quite different in actual weight. I think a reference weight range would be handy. Thanks, 5:23 - "... a Double Pumper carburetor is generally going to be properly suited for a (lightweight) vehicle generally with a Manual Transmission with a lot of gear, or an Automatic with a loose performance converter that's going to allow it to build RPM rapidly..."
@Ronald Smith Yes some of the after market thermoquads did, but all of the original equipment tq's flowed less - rebuilt plenty of those back in the day. Maybe holley should have kept the three pieace design so they could offer the larger throttle body.
I need help choosing a Holley carburetor I have a Ford 460 board over .60 with a 4speed manual transmission , witch if I'm not mistaken was stroked in to a 542 stroker ....I need to find a carburetor that will best fit and preform well with my engine
Going to need some more info to recommend one for you! Here is a link to our carburetor selector, you can check it out for yourself and try some different scenarios. thx J www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/ just scroll down to the bottom of the page and enter your info. Thx J
I always hear street and race. What about off road. I have an 86 blazer and she is heavy with big ol tires and 6 inch lift. So im looking for power that pushes the 3 ton beast forward. And I dont need to go fast just use it for street and off road.
Go edelbrock. Good reliable carbs if you just want to install it and only touch it half a year for weather adjustments. Easier to swap out the jets/rods when you change altitude too.
0-80450 is a stock replacement carb designed for 1970-1974 GM vehicles and the 0-80451 is a stock replacement for 1975-1980 GM vehicles. The primary fuel bowl on the 0-80451 has a lever operated vent not found on the 0-80450. J
Many years ago, I ran a 306 Ford (30 over 302) in a '79 Mustang. Car weighed around 2800 and had a mid 80's T-5 and 4:10's out back in an 8.8, though car came with 3.42's and briefly had 3.73's. Engine had 10:1, a small RV cam, Performer intake (off idle to 5500; think cam was up to 5200 -bought car that way and just ran it), and came with a 750 Edelbrock w/ vacuum secondaries (way too big) with upgraded control arms in the rear (a must). I also discovered later on it had mismatched heads (one from a '74 302 which the block date coded as, other was a mid 80's cast iron head with the smog bumps in the exhaust port). When it had the 750 Edelbrock, it ran OK, even with a C4 trans and would scream if you floored it. After installing the T5 and switching to a Carter 625 w/ vacuum secondaries (still technically too much cfm for the lower 5k rpm redline range), it had a touch more low end, mid range, and lost a bit of peak top end. With the 625, and all the goofiness of the wrong head, it still ran dead-even with the 02' Trans Ams that were new at the time. Raced several of them from dead stops up to what would be excess speeds. Always had them by half a car and kept it, but was on street tires w/o dumping the clutch. Figured it probably made around 260hp~ with 2800 curb and low 13 sec-capable, but made great vacuum, had really good throttle, always started w/o fuss, and made a bunch of low and mid power, and still had respectable mpg if you didn't flog it. Back in the late 90's very early 00's, it embarrassed quite a few cars and was a blast to drive. Don't over carb, and don't overdo the rpm range on a street car unless you spend a ton of time on the highway as the losses down low will make it a slug. Much like turbo cars, having an engine fall flat off-idle to 3k~ rpms before it starts catching up with itself, will = an old dog that barely gets out of it's own way. If a daily driver w/ smaller cam and occasional flogging, or a weekend car you cruise in, etc., go with a vacuum secondaries. If a bigger cam car with poor vacuum and a high redline, compression, etc., that's mainly doing non-stop stoplight drags, consider a double pumper or whatever.
The 4160's are great carbs but we offer alot of carb options so I suggest that you first you need to get some basic info on the engine, trans, drivetrain combo. (ex. cubic inches, cam specs, convertor stall speed, vacuum at idle, gear-ratio of rear end.) The more info you can obtain the better off you will be! Use our carburetor selector, here is the link- just scroll down a little to see it- www.holley.com/support/carburetor/ to help you choose a new carb that will fit your engine combo and driving needs. thx J
here's the best carb for your car take about three or four carburetors to the drag strip and run quarter miles on every one of them the one that gets you the quickest ET that's the best carb ...the end
It may be too big but to better help you I need some more info. What cam, compression ratio, intake, headers or manifolds, what tranny, what rear axle gear ratio. And when does it stumble? fully mashed from idle? does it do it when you floor it while at cruising speed? does it back-fire thru the carb or the exhaust? thx J
Ok, What I REALyY wanted to hear about is the difference in the Quick Fuel Vacuum Secondary with a secondary metering block, VS. the standard Holley single feed with a single metering block .... ..... Nice to know it is red anodized... I will keep that in mind !
+rockymontana1 You can call the tech line with the list number from the carburetor or check the numerical listing in the tech document library www.holley.com/support/resources/ documents.holley.com/techlibrary_carb_numerical_listing.pdf
Holley recommends carburetors that are way way too small. They do this to minimize returns and issues. They don’t do this to maximize your engine’s performance
Stick to talking about carburetors... Moore's Law is the following - Moore's Law refers to Moore's perception that the number of transistors on a microchip doubles every two years, though the cost of computers is halved. Moore's Law states that we can expect the speed and capability of our computers to increase every couple of years, and we will pay less for them.
Holley really screwed the public with there carbs. Just google "off idle stumble" and see what you get. Holley designed them to cruise at 14.7 stochastic. They claim for gas mileage. 14.7 is perfect emissions. As we ALL know emissions does NOT equal gas mileage. PLUS.... If you're running a carb on a v8 last thing you care about is emissions or gas mileage. Best gas mileage is going to come when you're getting the most power out of the gas being used as possible. At cruise speed this is around 12.8-13.2. Low 13's for most applications. If you set there carbs for this better cruise AF then your WOT will be super fat. It will also be too fat while at speeds of 40mph and lower. I have spent the greater part of 3 years trying to tune my holley. My motor has a hot cam and 14.7 is a lean bog to my motor. My motor hates anything 14 and higher. ESPECIALLY with 10% ethonol which holley does NOT account for. My motor likes to cruise at 13.2 and WOT power at 11.8-12.2. I just can't get this worked out in all the transitions. Worst carb ever if you intend on driving around town. There only good for race tunes that have little or no use for transition slot and cruising. I bought a brand new base plate and less then 2k miles the secondary butterfly shaft is loose. Causing it to move and create lean and rich spots randomly. Sometimes causing it to lean out and die in parking lots barely tipping in to throttle. I have to make sure the rear butterflys are adjusted all the way down and fit tight in the holes so they don't jiggle. So adjusting them slightly open is not even an option. Holley sucks. I expected much better from holley. I had much better luck tuning a quadrajet.
@@sharons9367 I drilled out transition circuit to fix stumble. To fix loose butterflys again I bought a 500cfm 2 barrel. I have seen 351 clevelands dyno up to 800 hp with this carb. Best decision ever. After drilling out the power valve holes to tune WOT it has exactly the A/F ratio through out the entire range I want. And feels like I have all of the power I had before, maybe more. Even have an electric choke set well enough to cold crank and drive off in winter months. That would have never happened with the 4 barrel. It hated cold.
#countryboycansurvive I watched another RUclips about transition holes I was going to buy pin set +drill bits and give it a try , reply I got don’t do it , maybe it’s a female thing
@@sharons9367 the bits are micro bits. Slip bits in holes til you find the size that matches holes. Then just go 1 size up at a time and test drive. Diagrams online will show where the jet hole is for idle/transition circuit. Best to do with an air fuel meter too so you're not guessing. There is enough guessing involved even with one. Then just use some trial and error to find the best size.
I call bullshit I got a 460 in my jet boat and I went from a 650 to a 750 to a850 then a 950 mechanical secondary and had to put 86 in the front and 94 in the back
Taking notes for when i finally get my hands on an old muscle car. Thanks for the mechanics lesson!!
I love manual chokes. Full control. If you know what you're doing they're really easy to operate. For 90% of the year in Houston you don't even need to operate the choke. When you do need it it's completely under your control. Manual transmission, manual choke. That's real driving.
I have a 1950 dodge B2B the manual choke and manual throttle make it stupid easy to worm up and to start in 30 below weather. Electric fuel pump just makes it a instant turn over
I grew up around many "mechanics" and some were so lazy or just not educated about holley's they went to edelbrocks because out of the box they just "worked" but as I got older I learned how generic the other carbs are, and Holley's once set, perform best, I really would like to see more videos on a new setup, jets floats, to tuning and aligning with timing.. I know too many still who crank idle up to help "solve" issues that hurt things longrun??? Thanks for this video!
Great video with alot of knowledge my carburetor just went out and been looking for information on which to replace it with
Excellent video and very informative. Very well done...😎💯
Yo modifique un quadrajet y en montecarlo 454 funciono muy bien, mejor de lo que esperaba.
Very informative. Thanks
Great job lots of information I know what I need to do know.
Great video! Very informative, lots of useful information. Thanks, Holley!
We will see how this does on my 292 Ford F250. I got the 1850-16. That is replacing the 1850-1. I originally had a Carter 2 barrel. The Holley 1850-1 was needing to be rebuilt but it was difficult to find a rebuild kit for that carburetor. I put a adapter plate on the intake manifold. I have the manual choke on my truck. The new carb should work well.
I had a holly 650 double pumper on my bIg block 396 was awesome best carb i put my foot in
I've had great luck with Holley's over the years. What I wished is that Holley would put out actual saving mula coupons every now n then. I tend to use the 4160's also.
very well done sir. thank you for your information
My haed Hurt after watching this
To much information 🤯👍
I have a 68 nova with a 383 stroker. Not sure about motor specs but pretty sure it's about 10 to 1 compression and a hydraulic roller cam. Auto trans with 3000 stall and 3.73 gears. Stock mechanical fuel pump. Should I get a different fuel pump as well? What size carb?
How many amps does the electric choke require?
What size fuse?
Well I got a mostly stock 1965 Ford Mustang with the C code engine and I wonder what carb I oughta get for it. Factory automatic (but I plan to swap to manual eventually), so what should I do? Which two barrel should I get or do I convert to 4? Also I would prefer to have a manual choke as it does get cold in winter here in NC
A morning did somebody out there that can help me decide which tunnel I am and which carburetors I should put on the 496 and building for the drags only
What would yall recommend for a 1960 thunderbird 352 v8 ???
Thank you in advance!
I have a 74 dodge b200 with a 360 5.9l v8 with a 2barrel carb 2245 Holley what can I replace it with?
for all out hp and torque biggest carb you can tune to it for street smallest carb you can live with.
Please!!! make a black and polished copper 680 quick fuel. Would look epic on my rat rod truck I am building.
Thanks
ford fe 360 with 390 top in bored 030 over with 468 comp cam flat tapped in 1965 galaxie what size for street cruiser
you forgot to mention that carbs are rated at 1.5 inhg at WOT, meaning that using the formula usually gives you too small of a carb size.
great info..I always over carb my motor and play hell to get it to function correctly...I knew a dbl.pumper 750cfm too much for 350 chevy,now I have math to prove it..thankyouwhat size jets should I start with if I have 350 chevy with fuler head 202 and a 650 cfm,vac. secondary???
I need a good carb for a Olds 350
So you talk about cars what about marine ? Dp or vac secondary ?
Hi there, good video. I own a valiant with a 318 v8 mild motor, has a stage two 340 cam, bit of head work, upgraded ignition and re graphed distributor, 340 Chrysler 4 barrel manifold, block huggers and currently im running a rebuilt 600 holley vac sec square bore, the motor runs fine but its going through way too much fuel. The auto has a 2500 domiantor stall and stage 2 shift kit, and running 2.92 highway gears lsd diff. Its tuned up and timing is correct, have pulled spark plug and they aren`t black and fouled. Im thinking a change in carby is best suited. I know i want a manual choke and vac sec operated. Would a 570 Street Avenger be better suited for the street? I don`t want it to be starving for fuel but i want it to not waste as much as it is too. What would you suggest for good economy and street performance? Thanks
I'm going to need some more info... You say the engine is going thru fuel but the plugs are not black? How is it using too much fuel? is not getting good MPG? The spark plugs are a tell-tale sign of the air/fuel ration in your engine (a light coffee color is optimal). One concern i see right away is the stall and gear ratio combo! I'm assuming you're running a 727 trans?? The torque converter is probably slipping at highway speeds with that tall of a gear and that high of a stall. What are the RPMs at 50,60, and 70 mph? That will tell you how much slip there is in the converter. Start there first. Thx J
On my car, the dash mounted AutoMeter vacuum gauge never goes down to zero vacuum. Not even at steady WOT for 10-15 seconds. It goes dawn to app 3-5 hg.
Vacuum at idle is app 18 hg
Doesn't that indicate a too small carburetor?
Engine is a 350 CSB, vortec heads, .533 lift cam.
I need a carb for a 1982 302 boss F-150
They should teach that in schools .Exellent
unfortunately as carburetors die off in the major car market, being replaced by fuel injection, its becoming more of a trade subject rather than a highschool class. Although some highschools still have mechanics classes that im sure go over carburetors.
@@calebheney302 They're too busy teaching critical race theory.
I just wish Holley would say piss on the B.S., and offer their own twist of Barry's "Badman" inline 4, including the Badman intake manifold. That was a sad loss for not just the carb side, but the aftermarket induction industry as a whole. The potential that induction system had for engines below 700hp was INSANE.
can i over size the carb put smaller jets that way when I put heads and cam and larger jets I'll have room to grow into the carb.
No you fuckwit, did you watch the vid?
You loose air velocity if you oversize
Got a sbc 350 bored 30 over with a mild cam. What should I use ?
A 670 street avenger is a great choice for that engine!
factor rearend and automactic tranimision
And with all those different chokes look for their lastest release of their new painted chokes, their artichoke line! Lol sorry my brain just miss fired! Lol
What is the weight break in pounds that a lightweight vehicle ends and medium weight or heavy vehicle begins? 1800 lbs, 2500 lbs, 3000 lbs, etc. ?
I'm sure I seen it in an old brochure, but don't recall the general guideline weight. Since this was some time ago and a vehicle that was considered lightweight back then and what is considered lightweight now may be quite different in actual weight. I think a reference weight range would be handy.
Thanks,
5:23 - "... a Double Pumper carburetor is generally going to be properly suited for a (lightweight) vehicle generally with a Manual Transmission with a lot of gear, or an Automatic with a loose performance converter that's going to allow it to build RPM rapidly..."
Bruh, the fuck vehicle is 1800lbs? 2500 is feasible as an extreme.. 3000 is usually where most guys can break with normal weight reduction techniques.
You guys need to get more carb eo numbers on your carburetors because we here in ca have very small list to choose from
We are trying, unfortunately, your state makes it a very difficult and drawn out process with way too many hoops to jump through! :( Thx j
YEAH, piss on California's! Y'all live in a different country.
Holley's are made for American's ! Lol
👍🏻👍🏻
331 sbf 425hp??
i have a 500 holley 2bl to go on my 350ci chevy ,,hope that works??
the number in front at top right is....4412-3 below it is a number..1147 what one do i have???
Is that street demon a redisigned carter thermoquad?
@Ronald Smith Yes some of the after market thermoquads did, but all of the original equipment tq's flowed less - rebuilt plenty of those back in the day. Maybe holley should have kept the three pieace design so they could offer the larger throttle body.
what is the 3456 number?
I live in a desert climate, but we still have cold nights and even colder winters. Should I get a choke for my truck or no?
It certainly isn't a bad idea!
@@HolleyPerformance thank you
Get a manual choke. You get complete control and it won't be a real pain for the few times you need it.
So Holley bought Demon then? I heard they went under. Then came back
I got a 327 with about 300hp in my K5. Would a 650cc carb be perfect for that or would a 600cc carb be better?
600
750
I need help choosing a Holley carburetor I have a Ford 460 board over .60 with a 4speed manual transmission , witch if I'm not mistaken was stroked in to a 542 stroker ....I need to find a carburetor that will best fit and preform well with my engine
probably 1000cfm. if it revs above 6000 maybe a little more
I have a 1976 Ford Thunderbird with the 460 big block. What would you recommend? I want it to be mean. Thank you.
Going to need some more info to recommend one for you! Here is a link to our carburetor selector, you can check it out for yourself and try some different scenarios. thx J
www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/ just scroll down to the bottom of the page and enter your info. Thx J
625 cfm
I always hear street and race. What about off road. I have an 86 blazer and she is heavy with big ol tires and 6 inch lift. So im looking for power that pushes the 3 ton beast forward. And I dont need to go fast just use it for street and off road.
Go edelbrock. Good reliable carbs if you just want to install it and only touch it half a year for weather adjustments. Easier to swap out the jets/rods when you change altitude too.
15:16 Was that a drop of fuel that came out the bottom of the carby? Lol
Carb cleaner?
Any 3418-1 base plate part # available ?
Going from a q jet to holly
So I have a 572 hemp engine which carburetor I would buy?
Give our tech line a call for a recommendation! 866-464-6553
At least a 1000 up to a 1250
My 572 has a 1150
Nobody seems to know what the difference is between holley carb 0-80450 and 0-80451 ?
0-80450 is a stock replacement carb designed for 1970-1974 GM vehicles and the 0-80451 is a stock replacement for 1975-1980 GM vehicles. The primary fuel bowl on the 0-80451 has a lever operated vent not found on the 0-80450. J
I'm looking for a Carburetor for my 1986 Chevy Silverado c10.Which would you prefer.It's got a 305 in it.
Joe Johnson Thank you so much...Happy New Year to you and your family!!!
Joe Johnson I don't know or remember.Could you give me the intake number so i can pair the Carburetor to it?
Funny how a EDELBROCK fan boy has to sell his shit here on the HOLLEY channel. Which may i add makes the better carb hands down
So I have a small block ford 302 stock what should I get ??
Many years ago, I ran a 306 Ford (30 over 302) in a '79 Mustang. Car weighed around 2800 and had a mid 80's T-5 and 4:10's out back in an 8.8, though car came with 3.42's and briefly had 3.73's. Engine had 10:1, a small RV cam, Performer intake (off idle to 5500; think cam was up to 5200 -bought car that way and just ran it), and came with a 750 Edelbrock w/ vacuum secondaries (way too big) with upgraded control arms in the rear (a must). I also discovered later on it had mismatched heads (one from a '74 302 which the block date coded as, other was a mid 80's cast iron head with the smog bumps in the exhaust port).
When it had the 750 Edelbrock, it ran OK, even with a C4 trans and would scream if you floored it. After installing the T5 and switching to a Carter 625 w/ vacuum secondaries (still technically too much cfm for the lower 5k rpm redline range), it had a touch more low end, mid range, and lost a bit of peak top end. With the 625, and all the goofiness of the wrong head, it still ran dead-even with the 02' Trans Ams that were new at the time. Raced several of them from dead stops up to what would be excess speeds. Always had them by half a car and kept it, but was on street tires w/o dumping the clutch. Figured it probably made around 260hp~ with 2800 curb and low 13 sec-capable, but made great vacuum, had really good throttle, always started w/o fuss, and made a bunch of low and mid power, and still had respectable mpg if you didn't flog it. Back in the late 90's very early 00's, it embarrassed quite a few cars and was a blast to drive.
Don't over carb, and don't overdo the rpm range on a street car unless you spend a ton of time on the highway as the losses down low will make it a slug. Much like turbo cars, having an engine fall flat off-idle to 3k~ rpms before it starts catching up with itself, will = an old dog that barely gets out of it's own way. If a daily driver w/ smaller cam and occasional flogging, or a weekend car you cruise in, etc., go with a vacuum secondaries. If a bigger cam car with poor vacuum and a high redline, compression, etc., that's mainly doing non-stop stoplight drags, consider a double pumper or whatever.
I have a mildly built 350 with the one on the far left 80457. I would think it would work well for any small block not going for all out performance.
I have a 350 sbc which I think is stock (I just bought my car a few days ago) and it has a turbo 350 trans. Should I get a 4160 ?
The 4160's are great carbs but we offer alot of carb options so I suggest that you first you need to get some basic info on the engine, trans, drivetrain combo. (ex. cubic inches, cam specs, convertor stall speed, vacuum at idle, gear-ratio of rear end.) The more info you can obtain the better off you will be! Use our carburetor selector, here is the link- just scroll down a little to see it-
www.holley.com/support/carburetor/
to help you choose a new carb that will fit your engine combo and driving needs. thx J
HolleyPerformance thank you !
here's the best carb for your car take about three or four carburetors to the drag strip and run quarter miles on every one of them the one that gets you the quickest ET that's the best carb ...the end
I have a 350 with a mile cam with a quick fuel 650 carb on take off my truck stumbled and shakes is my carb to big can I jet it down
It may be too big but to better help you I need some more info. What cam, compression ratio, intake, headers or manifolds, what tranny, what rear axle gear ratio. And when does it stumble? fully mashed from idle? does it do it when you floor it while at cruising speed? does it back-fire thru the carb or the exhaust? thx J
do you have four bold manes?
@@JUNIORK1974 yes
Comp cam just above stock don't know compression edelbrock high rise intake 700r transmission 411 gears long tube headers
@@HolleyPerformance only on take off
I have a 1985 Chevy caprice with a 350 engine and trans. What is the best carburetor for this engine??? Please help
use the carb selector at the bottom of this page, www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/ Thx J
Ok, What I REALyY wanted to hear about is the difference in the Quick Fuel Vacuum Secondary with a secondary metering block, VS. the standard Holley single feed with a single metering block .... ..... Nice to know it is red anodized... I will keep that in mind !
Not a bad wee watch while you're cleaning up bits
Could you tell me HOW can I find out WHAT the C.F.M. is if I didn't get my carb in a box with it's papers?
Should be numbers on the carb, look those up online it will tell you build date, model, and cfm
+rockymontana1 You can call the tech line with the list number from the carburetor or check the numerical listing in the tech document library
www.holley.com/support/resources/
documents.holley.com/techlibrary_carb_numerical_listing.pdf
is there a relation between cfm an the ventury diameter?
Yes in most all cases a larger Venturi diameter will translate into larger CFM. thxJ
but there is some formula to calculate tha cfm depending on the ventury chosen for a given carb on a given engine?
So the Street Demon is basically a Quadrajet?
It’s spread bore yes, but operation is not the same.
Holley recommends carburetors that are way way too small. They do this to minimize returns and issues. They don’t do this to maximize your engine’s performance
So wants a better way to choose a carb?
@@xmo552 go one or sizes higher than recommended
Iji I'm
Let me simplify:: Holly or AFB? Holly. WCFB or Holly? Please. Quadrajet or Holly? Wake up. Double Pump or spread bore? DP.
Air filter can take off up to 100 cfm so think the math is off don't use the hole carb or do they just want to sell something
run those carb figures ( the equation ) out again real slow....
4:48 thank me Later
Stick to talking about carburetors... Moore's Law is the following - Moore's Law refers to Moore's perception that the number of transistors on a microchip doubles every two years, though the cost of computers is halved. Moore's Law states that we can expect the speed and capability of our computers to increase every couple of years, and we will pay less for them.
Holley really screwed the public with there carbs. Just google "off idle stumble" and see what you get. Holley designed them to cruise at 14.7 stochastic. They claim for gas mileage. 14.7 is perfect emissions. As we ALL know emissions does NOT equal gas mileage. PLUS.... If you're running a carb on a v8 last thing you care about is emissions or gas mileage. Best gas mileage is going to come when you're getting the most power out of the gas being used as possible. At cruise speed this is around 12.8-13.2. Low 13's for most applications. If you set there carbs for this better cruise AF then your WOT will be super fat. It will also be too fat while at speeds of 40mph and lower. I have spent the greater part of 3 years trying to tune my holley. My motor has a hot cam and 14.7 is a lean bog to my motor. My motor hates anything 14 and higher. ESPECIALLY with 10% ethonol which holley does NOT account for. My motor likes to cruise at 13.2 and WOT power at 11.8-12.2. I just can't get this worked out in all the transitions. Worst carb ever if you intend on driving around town. There only good for race tunes that have little or no use for transition slot and cruising. I bought a brand new base plate and less then 2k miles the secondary butterfly shaft is loose. Causing it to move and create lean and rich spots randomly. Sometimes causing it to lean out and die in parking lots barely tipping in to throttle. I have to make sure the rear butterflys are adjusted all the way down and fit tight in the holes so they don't jiggle. So adjusting them slightly open is not even an option. Holley sucks. I expected much better from holley. I had much better luck tuning a quadrajet.
#countryboycansurvive yes off idle stumble is a huge problem, I’ve tried everything to fix it ! I eventually did it’s in the bin
@@sharons9367 I drilled out transition circuit to fix stumble. To fix loose butterflys again I bought a 500cfm 2 barrel. I have seen 351 clevelands dyno up to 800 hp with this carb. Best decision ever. After drilling out the power valve holes to tune WOT it has exactly the A/F ratio through out the entire range I want. And feels like I have all of the power I had before, maybe more. Even have an electric choke set well enough to cold crank and drive off in winter months. That would have never happened with the 4 barrel. It hated cold.
#countryboycansurvive I watched another RUclips about transition holes I was going to buy pin set +drill bits and give it a try , reply I got don’t do it , maybe it’s a female thing
@@sharons9367 the bits are micro bits. Slip bits in holes til you find the size that matches holes. Then just go 1 size up at a time and test drive. Diagrams online will show where the jet hole is for idle/transition circuit. Best to do with an air fuel meter too so you're not guessing. There is enough guessing involved even with one. Then just use some trial and error to find the best size.
#countryboycansurvive thank you if I have this problem again I will do this , I bought a new carby this happened to me years ago
I call bullshit I got a 460 in my jet boat and I went from a 650 to a 750 to a850 then a 950 mechanical secondary and had to put 86 in the front and 94 in the back
На русском языке можете говарить а-то в Россию ввезли продукции свои а перевод забыли ? Наверное?