Trying to add isopropyl to a preheated board is just going instantly evaporate the ipa. That's why you get a brown crust, it's the flux getting foamed by the alcohol boiling and then being left with just the dry flux
You can clean the (burned) fluxed when the board still hot by using more flux. Cleaning flux with flux. Then if the board cooled down you can clean it completely with ipa.
Very nice video! This is an excellent portrayal of the learning curve. I was noding my head "yup" every time you enountered an issue. I had all the same ones. Tips. Stop using that flux. Use Stirri V3 and apply it with a gloved finger, squeeging it off. The BGA pads are slightly recessed, so this will leave the perfect amount of flux. Second, remove the nozzle from your hot air and turn it down as much as possable. Up the temp to 460C. Then back away from the RSX. Start about a foot away from the chip and SLOWLY inch your way forward toward a corner. This slows the air, heats the flux and give the balls in that orner a chamce to settle in. The heat travels like a wave to the rest of the balls and melts flux without them.blowing off. Too much flus and they swim. The wrong flux and they'll fly off. So use the right flux, less of it, and then start from a corner with the heat and inch forward. That'll help immensely. if you have a merged ball. Cut a piece of solder braid at an angle to make a point. Add flux and use hot air pointed at the braid while ysing forceps to hold the braid. It'll allow you to wick up one pad. Then replace with a new ball. That way you dont have to start over. These tricks saved me! Reballimg is the hardest part. PLL will often jump between vales. That's normal. It shouldnt be short or open, ignore the havlues in between. Note about that rsx pinout you used. The white boxes are either no connect OR signal. So check kiaw's pinout to see if it's actually important, not that one. The one you used only shows the voltage lines. You're on the cusp my man. The next one will be a sucess! I'm pretty sure.
Ngl, i thought this was a fake acc becayse of the 3020 in hour handle, but then i saw the length of the comment. A Fake would never take his time to write a good comment, but great stuff is all we know from you. Also, agree.
Thank you so much for the tips! I have ordered Stirri V3 and chose the cheapest shipping option (up to 21 days for shipping) Hopefully it can arrive before my next attempt!
felix i have a question, so you said that the 65nm rsx and the 40nm need 3.20 or something for a frankie but what if the ps3 is below that? would it ylod thats why i thought before making a frankie, temporary heat the 90nm rsx so you can check firmware
Feels great to be able to you Mr Felixstein!! I’m looking out for a 40nm PS3 phat, and endlessly watching the community working their way through to achieve one! Big thanks to you for your generous contribution and invaluable knowledge ❤
You didn't waste 45 minutes of my time....I really enjoyed your video ! Your tenacity, determination, and Humility are admirable and the narration was fantastic. Keep at it. Best of luck to You !
I’ve done a lot of these. You need to delid the 90nm RSX before removing it. The IHS soaks up a lot of heat. If you hold the temps at 230 it will usually completely melt the unleaded solder after 10-30 seconds.
Great video, love your sense of humor. Im very new to this whole community but excited to learn and glad there are people like you making videos. Thank you!!!
On my own PS3 repair journey and just found your channel Really well put together video, clear and informative outlining the things you've learned along the way. Reballing is way beyond the realms of my patience though! I'm waiting for a couple Felix Tokin pcb to be delivered, as I have a 1002 error. Hoping it's not too difficult to do!
Very cool video! You have some kind of power. Your videos are so interesting. You have something that other RUclipsrs don't have. Don't give up and keep trying. 🙂👍
Seriously impressive! Your dedication and technical knowledge really shine through in this video. I learned so much about PS3 mods, and your transparency about the challenges made it all the more enjoyable. Can’t wait for your next project!
I really enjoy your videos. I have 3 not working backwards compatible fat ps3's that I need to try and fix one day and I am using your videos and Felix's guides to help prepare me for it. Right now I am too afraid to mess them up. I'm practicing on easier soldering projects for awhile before trying ps3 rsx reballing.
I love the fact I watched all 43:23 and you still failed. Shows that you can put a ton of time into something and still get a bad outcome and its not only you in the end. Failure means a lesson to be learned and learning is the key here. Loved the video.
you did an awesome job there. from personal experience i know about the shaking hands / sweat / feeling that you had in that moment. keep up the good work, you will improve with practice. nobody is born a pro. Keep up!
Great video bro. Next time try a small hot plate in combination with the hot air for reballing. It seems to work well for northwestrepair when he reballs gpus and such.
Thank you for including the mistakes made during the process. Too many of these videos make these tasks look far easier than we all know they are. Re-balling achievement unlocked!
Nice job man, this is not a defeat but a victory cause you approched the final goal much more close than ever. Keep going, you will make It anyways due to your strong dedication.
For me personally, when trying to get rid of the wiggles while welding, its beneficial to have a rest for your arm to take some weight off. May help to increase your steadiness while messing with these tiny components. Cool video, ill check out the next attempt.
my hands always shake so bad... which is why i have avoided this stuff... but i recently found after my second cup of coffee and a bowl of herbs... no more shaking. noticed less inflamation and pain , feeling rested, also correlates 3-4 hours later it returns to shaking.
Don't apologize, I really enjoy watching you fail! Jokes aside, it's nice too see your progress and to have someone actually post not only their success but also their failures, it's inspiring. Keep it up, you'll get it in the end and I'll be here to watch it. Regarding the desolder temperature difference between the 90 and 65nm. I noticed you didn't delid the 90nm before removing it. Since the heatspreader is in contact with the RSX and VRAM and not the PCB I think you might be directing a lot of the thermal energy into these chips rather than the PCB. Have you tried desoldering without the lid as well, did you notice any difference? Also, where did you get that motherboard tray?
Thank you for watching! I didn't take off the IHS for this one because somehow the glue is quite strong. I don't want to force it and damage the pads. But I will pay attention to the temperature with and without IHS next time. It would be something interesting to know!
WOW!!! This was AMAZING! IT sucks you couldn't get it to work tho.... I don't have any experience with this stuff, so I can't help you with ideas... I did learn quite a bit from you tho... and I hope to learn more again soon :)
Just seeing someone take a chip on and off again with an IR plate and heat gun is great for someone like me that wants to attempt this with similar equipment. Your videos have been JUST as helpful to me as RIP Felix in terms of technique. With both of your videos I hope to try this sometime soon!
Congratulations on your perseverance! In the future, take a fully functional CECHA and a fully functional CECH-21xx/CECH-25xx/CECH-30xx. Remove the 90nm from the CECHA and try to install the 40nm extracted from the donor. Don't waste time messing around with dead ones from "eBay". Good luck, and I wish you success. In my opinion, you can confidently say that you successfully did a Frankenstein Mod, only you transplanted a 60nm RSX to a damaged PCB.
@@8bitnation419 3034 errors are often caused by defects on the BGA or Bump (among other issues). At the end he shows that he most likely was installing a faulty 65nm RSX
I like your style. Your journey will be cool as you improve your skills based on comments from community... Would also be nice if you create a video summarizing these improvement advices
When reballing you should use a thicker viscosity flux so the balls can basically be temporary glued to the pads, also to make it easier you don't need to remove the template when heating the balls up
@@halo3odst thousands of dollars in tools and countless hours of your time only for uneducated morons to complain about price "I cAn BuY a Ps5 FoR ThAt AmOuNt" it's not a get rich quick scheme.
Cool video. Use more sticky flux and raise the temp on the hot air with no tip on the nozzle when reballing. Just a suggestion. Im no pro but ive been doing microsoldering for years.
@@m3e642 still preparing guys. I am training with laptops mother boards bga balls before I will use my skills on mine CECHcps3. There must be no mistakes because it's the only one I have.
The flux you are using is not the best, the viscosity is not ideal to keep the solder balls in place, also it get black as it burn in contact of the iron. Buy the STIRRI-V2-TF (or -ASM) if you live in North America or the Mechanic SD360 which is easier to get and cheaper. For the soldering, before moving the chip to test the wiggle you have to be sure the solder balls are liquidus otherwise you can merge solder balls and create shorts (also if you wiggle the chip too far).You have to heat the chip progressively with the heat gun, start at 170 and increase 1-3 degrees per secondes. After you reach liquidus temperature you have to keep it 30 to 90 secondes to be sure all solder balls seated I think it is the main issue, try keeping the probe temp at least 260 degrees for 60 secondes, and put some flux on the probe to improve contact to PCB so you measuring PCB temperature and not air, as I noticed the temperature is changing too fast. Your air gun don't have enough air speed that is why you have to over increase the temperature. You are not far from succeeding, good luck !
Thank you for the tips! I wanted to buy amtech nc-559, but it doesn't ship to my country. Currently I am trying different flux that I can find locally.
@@hardwarerepair200 hello, friend did you find a good flux? i also cant find one good for bga, my only option is aliexpress ,if you found something please tell.
I think the plastic pad under the clamp is factory stock for the backwards compatible Fat PS3, saw it several times. Good job playing first time with balls! 😂 Entertaining video! THX
Too much flux isnt usually an issue brother. You're doing a tricky job. I have 3 launch edition ps3 consoles that i need to put bdroms on but i dont have the original daughter boards. They all boot though.
I'm at the 7:30 mark of the video, and without looking ahead, I bet that the RSX will start floating(swing) on molten solder balls somewhere above 250-255°C. Even though the melting point of lead-free solder balls is around 217-227°C, it's possible that Sony added copper to the SnAgCu mixture, which raised the melting temperature of the balls. In any case, it's safe to heat the 90nm RSX up to 260°C since it's destined for the trash. And it's better to be sure than to rip pads and traces off the PCB while lifting it. However, when soldering in a new 60nm/40nm chip, we use leaded solder balls, and in that case, 185-210°C is sufficient for it to solder to PCB, as Sn63Pb37 melts somewhere above 180°C.
It's funny when you say that they added copper to the "SnAgCu mixture", when that last "Cu" it's the symbol of Copper on the periodic table. And funnier seeing you keeping talking about all the rest without knowing that basic thing.
your videos keep getting better and better, keep up the good work, btw what flux are you using?the quality of the flux plays an important role for easier re-balling
I am using the flux I can find locally. It is BS-75B. I wanted to buy amtech nc-559, but it doesn't ship to my country. The so called "amtech nc-559" I can find are all Chinese knock-off😢
From what I have learned Sonys fixed PS3s, there is that white thing under CPU, but only 40 RSX. Also MB have date sticker and 40nm have 40 sticker in USB. Haven't seen 65 one, so that I don't know. I had one that claimed fixed by Sony, but it had still 90 and no sticker.
If the board has date stickers then it will be Sony refurbed. I have 3 of them, 2 of which are 40nm. They all came with the Cell brace that you showed.
Why not melt the balls with the stencil still in place? That's how it's done when using solder paste. I wouldn't think that the balls would trap the stencil onto the chip unless the balls were a larger size?
True, that's why I do it without a stencil here. Coz I don't see other people doing it with a stencil, unless they are using solder paste. But still, I am curious if it will get stuck or not. Will try it when I have time!
My friend helped me ordered from this Chinese website item.taobao.com/item.htm?abbucket=4&id=35343923877 Somehow I can't find it anywhere else. Let me know if you can find it somewhere!
Trying to add isopropyl to a preheated board is just going instantly evaporate the ipa. That's why you get a brown crust, it's the flux getting foamed by the alcohol boiling and then being left with just the dry flux
That means I should wait for it to cool down a bit before cleaning?
@@hardwarerepair200 yes, you should be using ipa after the board cold enough that it won't evaporate too fast
You can clean the (burned) fluxed when the board still hot by using more flux. Cleaning flux with flux. Then if the board cooled down you can clean it completely with ipa.
Very nice video! This is an excellent portrayal of the learning curve. I was noding my head "yup" every time you enountered an issue. I had all the same ones.
Tips. Stop using that flux. Use Stirri V3 and apply it with a gloved finger, squeeging it off. The BGA pads are slightly recessed, so this will leave the perfect amount of flux.
Second, remove the nozzle from your hot air and turn it down as much as possable. Up the temp to 460C. Then back away from the RSX. Start about a foot away from the chip and SLOWLY inch your way forward toward a corner. This slows the air, heats the flux and give the balls in that orner a chamce to settle in. The heat travels like a wave to the rest of the balls and melts flux without them.blowing off. Too much flus and they swim. The wrong flux and they'll fly off. So use the right flux, less of it, and then start from a corner with the heat and inch forward. That'll help immensely.
if you have a merged ball. Cut a piece of solder braid at an angle to make a point. Add flux and use hot air pointed at the braid while ysing forceps to hold the braid. It'll allow you to wick up one pad. Then replace with a new ball. That way you dont have to start over.
These tricks saved me! Reballimg is the hardest part.
PLL will often jump between vales. That's normal. It shouldnt be short or open, ignore the havlues in between.
Note about that rsx pinout you used. The white boxes are either no connect OR signal. So check kiaw's pinout to see if it's actually important, not that one. The one you used only shows the voltage lines.
You're on the cusp my man. The next one will be a sucess! I'm pretty sure.
Ngl, i thought this was a fake acc becayse of the 3020 in hour handle, but then i saw the length of the comment. A Fake would never take his time to write a good comment, but great stuff is all we know from you. Also, agree.
Thank you so much for the tips! I have ordered Stirri V3 and chose the cheapest shipping option (up to 21 days for shipping)
Hopefully it can arrive before my next attempt!
felix i have a question, so you said that the 65nm rsx and the 40nm need 3.20 or something for a frankie but what if the ps3 is below that? would it ylod
thats why i thought before making a frankie, temporary heat the 90nm rsx so you can check firmware
Feels great to be able to you Mr Felixstein!! I’m looking out for a 40nm PS3 phat, and endlessly watching the community working their way through to achieve one! Big thanks to you for your generous contribution and invaluable knowledge ❤
this video rules because the creator shows his setbacks WITH his success. A+, the most realistic modding video on RUclips
Failed attempt means there will be another video. Can't wait. Good luck! Frankies are awesome
Yes, can't wait to have my first Frankie!
You didn't waste 45 minutes of my time....I really enjoyed your video ! Your tenacity, determination, and Humility are admirable and the narration was fantastic. Keep at it. Best of luck to You !
I’ve done a lot of these. You need to delid the 90nm RSX before removing it. The IHS soaks up a lot of heat.
If you hold the temps at 230 it will usually completely melt the unleaded solder after 10-30 seconds.
Thank you for the tips!
do u do it as a service?
"everything is cheap because im poor" same brother lol
Solder-ball golf was a nice introduction by demonstration of the tools needed to do that sort of work. I learned something, thank you.
First time seeing anything of yours… love the accent, love the content.
Thank you for watching! I hope my accent is not too difficult to understand.
@@hardwarerepair200 oh, I understand completely, I love your accent 👍.
Great video, love your sense of humor. Im very new to this whole community but excited to learn and glad there are people like you making videos. Thank you!!!
Huge respect to you and the community for figuring these things out. Frankie mods are the best and I'm cheering for you on the next attempt.
Woow this is something incredible, keep up man don't hesitate you will achieve it!
Enjoyed every moment of this even if it didn’t turn out how we wanted. Good luck on your future attempts!
It's a bit disappointing in the end. But I learned a lot. Will try my best next time!
Man you’re funny and ingenious at the same time, and it’s entertaining to watch 😂
On my own PS3 repair journey and just found your channel
Really well put together video, clear and informative outlining the things you've learned along the way. Reballing is way beyond the realms of my patience though!
I'm waiting for a couple Felix Tokin pcb to be delivered, as I have a 1002 error. Hoping it's not too difficult to do!
Very cool video! You have some kind of power. Your videos are so interesting. You have something that other RUclipsrs don't have. Don't give up and keep trying. 🙂👍
Thank you for watching!
I think the only special thing I have compared to other RUclipsrs is my crappy soldering skill😂
Excellent, informative video showing that things aren't quite so simple. So exciting, I was cheering you on from my desk.
Bravo for your perseverance.
Seriously impressive! Your dedication and technical knowledge really shine through in this video. I learned so much about PS3 mods, and your transparency about the challenges made it all the more enjoyable. Can’t wait for your next project!
Thank you for watching! It's more like a vlog to remind myself what have I tried. So that I can improve next time and won't make the same mistake!
Flux can be conductive and corrosive, use IPA + air under BGA chips to get rid of remaining flux.
Thank you for showing all your process and learning. Very instructive video.
Waiting for your next attempt :D
It's more like a vlog for myself. But I am glad that other people also find it useful!
I really enjoy your videos. I have 3 not working backwards compatible fat ps3's that I need to try and fix one day and I am using your videos and Felix's guides to help prepare me for it. Right now I am too afraid to mess them up. I'm practicing on easier soldering projects for awhile before trying ps3 rsx reballing.
Glad that you find it useful! Yes, better practice before doing it for real. I have done a lot of practice for just the reballing part too.
I love the fact I watched all 43:23 and you still failed. Shows that you can put a ton of time into something and still get a bad outcome and its not only you in the end. Failure means a lesson to be learned and learning is the key here. Loved the video.
True. Each failure is a lesson. That's why I think it is also important to record down how I failed.
Thank you for watching!
I found this video extremely entertaining, it was fun to watch
you did an awesome job there. from personal experience i know about the shaking hands / sweat / feeling that you had in that moment. keep up the good work, you will improve with practice. nobody is born a pro. Keep up!
Can't wait for the second attempt video and surely it will be a big success :)
Looking for my next victim for the Frankenstein mod now😂
Stay tune!
Great video my good man many thanks for all your time and effort from vini
I know it is not easy, but you will succeed. Thank you for working so hard to put this together for us. Keep up the good work.
Success or not, i apprieciate this video. Great work dude!
Great video bro. Next time try a small hot plate in combination with the hot air for reballing. It seems to work well for northwestrepair when he reballs gpus and such.
Thank you for including the mistakes made during the process. Too many of these videos make these tasks look far easier than we all know they are. Re-balling achievement unlocked!
Nice job man, this is not a defeat but a victory cause you approched the final goal much more close than ever.
Keep going, you will make It anyways due to your strong dedication.
Thank you for the support! I will!
i love your videos man, nice job!
Glad to hear it!
I am glad to have been part of this trauma ❤. Great video mate well done.
I am too sloppy to handle sharp tools. Thank you for dropping by.
I hope more people know about your new delid tool after watching this video!
For me personally, when trying to get rid of the wiggles while welding, its beneficial to have a rest for your arm to take some weight off. May help to increase your steadiness while messing with these tiny components. Cool video, ill check out the next attempt.
my hands always shake so bad... which is why i have avoided this stuff... but i recently found after my second cup of coffee and a bowl of herbs... no more shaking.
noticed less inflamation and pain , feeling rested, also correlates
3-4 hours later it returns to shaking.
You showed such determination, subscribed and exited to see you succeed next time, or the time after!
Also subscribed for the golf bit.
Thank you for watching! I will try my best!
"SMD Soldering is difficult 😑" .. I felt your pain, but i had to laugh! 😂 ..So sorry! However can't wait for part 2 of this, amazing video AHR! 🎉
Cool cool shit. Love how you know your stuff and cheap and the personality it’s gold. lol you content!
When that synth music kicked in, you know it was getting serious. Re-ball mode: ENGAGED!
Glad that you enjoy the music!
Don't apologize, I really enjoy watching you fail! Jokes aside, it's nice too see your progress and to have someone actually post not only their success but also their failures, it's inspiring. Keep it up, you'll get it in the end and I'll be here to watch it.
Regarding the desolder temperature difference between the 90 and 65nm. I noticed you didn't delid the 90nm before removing it. Since the heatspreader is in contact with the RSX and VRAM and not the PCB I think you might be directing a lot of the thermal energy into these chips rather than the PCB. Have you tried desoldering without the lid as well, did you notice any difference?
Also, where did you get that motherboard tray?
Thank you for watching!
I didn't take off the IHS for this one because somehow the glue is quite strong. I don't want to force it and damage the pads.
But I will pay attention to the temperature with and without IHS next time. It would be something interesting to know!
muy agradecido por toda la informacion brindada en tu proyecto FM, fue muy entretenido en todo momento y para nada aburrido. saludos
WOW!!! This was AMAZING! IT sucks you couldn't get it to work tho.... I don't have any experience with this stuff, so I can't help you with ideas...
I did learn quite a bit from you tho... and I hope to learn more again soon :)
Just seeing someone take a chip on and off again with an IR plate and heat gun is great for someone like me that wants to attempt this with similar equipment. Your videos have been JUST as helpful to me as RIP Felix in terms of technique. With both of your videos I hope to try this sometime soon!
Fantastic video man! Keep it up.
Solderpaste works best with stencils
Not with such a big BGA chip. The method you're referring to only works for relatively small chips.
This man has mentally prepared his entire last year's weekends while drinking beer with his friends at a pub for this job.
:)
Yet, every time I bring up 'BGA rework' at the pub, it becomes dead silence 😂🍻
Truly a powerful conversation killer
Congratulations on your perseverance! In the future, take a fully functional CECHA and a fully functional CECH-21xx/CECH-25xx/CECH-30xx. Remove the 90nm from the CECHA and try to install the 40nm extracted from the donor. Don't waste time messing around with dead ones from "eBay". Good luck, and I wish you success. In my opinion, you can confidently say that you successfully did a Frankenstein Mod, only you transplanted a 60nm RSX to a damaged PCB.
I hope so! Thank you for watching!
Why, you can keep 90nm running for a long time, what you say just destroys a slim and risks ruining a COK-001
Impressive. So much work, fail and retry. Nice job. It is a learning process after all.
You nearly had it! Bad luck on the RSX, keep your eye out for another 65nm and try again 😁
3034 means a BGA Defect. BGA work on the RSX will need to be redone.
@@8bitnation419 3034 errors are often caused by defects on the BGA or Bump (among other issues). At the end he shows that he most likely was installing a faulty 65nm RSX
great video man! You're gonna make it.
Thank you, I will!
after 21 minutes in, you're getting way better
I like your style. Your journey will be cool as you improve your skills based on comments from community... Would also be nice if you create a video summarizing these improvement advices
When reballing you should use a thicker viscosity flux so the balls can basically be temporary glued to the pads, also to make it easier you don't need to remove the template when heating the balls up
It's okay man ,One day for sure, Keep Trying You did great.
Thank you, I will!
Always have to fail to make it work in the end I love your videos
buen video amigo ,haces todo lo que yo hice mal cuando yo empecé con el reballing XD
Cant wait to see the second try!
Don't Throw 90nm RSX away, Save It!!!!!!
We need more people who can do it
No incentive
@marcoandres767
It’s called money.
@@halo3odst motivation
@marcoandres767
lots of money
(Which it does cost)
@@halo3odst thousands of dollars in tools and countless hours of your time only for uneducated morons to complain about price "I cAn BuY a Ps5 FoR ThAt AmOuNt" it's not a get rich quick scheme.
Honeyyyyy, Frankenstein Mod Part 2 s out.
Don't give up bro ✌
Cool video. Use more sticky flux and raise the temp on the hot air with no tip on the nozzle when reballing. Just a suggestion. Im no pro but ive been doing microsoldering for years.
I must say great video while I am prepairing myself for a Franky on my old PS3 CECHC.
Let us know how it goes!
How did it go?
@@m3e642 still preparing guys. I am training with laptops mother boards bga balls before I will use my skills on mine CECHcps3. There must be no mistakes because it's the only one I have.
The flux you are using is not the best, the viscosity is not ideal to keep the solder balls in place, also it get black as it burn in contact of the iron. Buy the STIRRI-V2-TF (or -ASM) if you live in North America or the Mechanic SD360 which is easier to get and cheaper. For the soldering, before moving the chip to test the wiggle you have to be sure the solder balls are liquidus otherwise you can merge solder balls and create shorts (also if you wiggle the chip too far).You have to heat the chip progressively with the heat gun, start at 170 and increase 1-3 degrees per secondes. After you reach liquidus temperature you have to keep it 30 to 90 secondes to be sure all solder balls seated I think it is the main issue, try keeping the probe temp at least 260 degrees for 60 secondes, and put some flux on the probe to improve contact to PCB so you measuring PCB temperature and not air, as I noticed the temperature is changing too fast. Your air gun don't have enough air speed that is why you have to over increase the temperature.
You are not far from succeeding, good luck !
Thank you for the tips!
I wanted to buy amtech nc-559, but it doesn't ship to my country. Currently I am trying different flux that I can find locally.
@@hardwarerepair200 hello, friend did you find a good flux? i also cant find one good for bga, my only option is aliexpress ,if you found something please tell.
it's amazing you even got this far with an 858D type heatgun
Man this was awesome! Love the accent btw
I think the plastic pad under the clamp is factory stock for the backwards compatible Fat PS3, saw it several times. Good job playing first time with balls! 😂 Entertaining video! THX
Some of my CECHA consoles didn't come with it. So I am a bit curious.
@@hardwarerepair200 I'm in the EU region so we got different models, our 60gb model was calles CECHC04 without actual ps2 hardware
I see. I guess that's why. Probably all CECHC came with that plastic pad. But only some CECHA came with it.
Loved the video.
Good on you for your perseverance. Not many people would be able to do what you had done. Good work though.
Awesome intense repair video 💯. This is more fun then playing ps3 😊
I admire your dedication to self improvement.
Wonderful effort
I love your videos
Thank you for watching!
Too much flux isnt usually an issue brother. You're doing a tricky job. I have 3 launch edition ps3 consoles that i need to put bdroms on but i dont have the original daughter boards. They all boot though.
Need to verify that the chip works before attempting to install it.
Min. 19:02 We use flux over the stencil, not the other way around... And preferably a solder flux type "No- Clean"...
I'm at the 7:30 mark of the video, and without looking ahead, I bet that the RSX will start floating(swing) on molten solder balls somewhere above 250-255°C. Even though the melting point of lead-free solder balls is around 217-227°C, it's possible that Sony added copper to the SnAgCu mixture, which raised the melting temperature of the balls. In any case, it's safe to heat the 90nm RSX up to 260°C since it's destined for the trash. And it's better to be sure than to rip pads and traces off the PCB while lifting it. However, when soldering in a new 60nm/40nm chip, we use leaded solder balls, and in that case, 185-210°C is sufficient for it to solder to PCB, as Sn63Pb37 melts somewhere above 180°C.
Thank you for the tips!
It's funny when you say that they added copper to the "SnAgCu mixture", when that last "Cu" it's the symbol of Copper on the periodic table. And funnier seeing you keeping talking about all the rest without knowing that basic thing.
adding to the percentage contained, to raise melting point... the copper would never melt but disribute heat better...
i wouldnt use lead tho, unless you like wearing a full face mask under a fume hood trying to use a scope and solder...
@@pazsion Are you for real? Or this is some kind of bad joke?
What are you missing? As others already tell you, use gel flux, its more tacky and the right one for this task.
your videos keep getting better and better, keep up the good work, btw what flux are you using?the quality of the flux plays an important role for easier re-balling
I am using the flux I can find locally. It is BS-75B.
I wanted to buy amtech nc-559, but it doesn't ship to my country.
The so called "amtech nc-559" I can find are all Chinese knock-off😢
I can’t believe you tried so hard but props
From what I have learned Sonys fixed PS3s, there is that white thing under CPU, but only 40 RSX. Also MB have date sticker and 40nm have 40 sticker in USB. Haven't seen 65 one, so that I don't know. I had one that claimed fixed by Sony, but it had still 90 and no sticker.
I've been interested in trying this mod... it seems that having Led solder really helps if you can get your hands on it.
Great job, keep trying bro
If the board has date stickers then it will be Sony refurbed. I have 3 of them, 2 of which are 40nm. They all came with the Cell brace that you showed.
Keep going! FIX IT! :D
Why not melt the balls with the stencil still in place? That's how it's done when using solder paste. I wouldn't think that the balls would trap the stencil onto the chip unless the balls were a larger size?
Because it bend after heat up...
The crappy one that I tried at the beginning bends. Probably the one with the frame won't bend. Anyhow, thank you for the tips, will give it a try.
Isn't there a chance the stencil will get soldered to the chip?? I've never saw anyone heat solderballs withe the stencil on the chip.
True, that's why I do it without a stencil here. Coz I don't see other people doing it with a stencil, unless they are using solder paste.
But still, I am curious if it will get stuck or not. Will try it when I have time!
@@hardwarerepair200 always try on some junk electronics first!
Don't worry about failure. It's about the journey.
Reballing looks extremely intense.
Ohhhh, i think at this situation i better stick with my PS3 Slim and also put away a backup one in case anything happens
I believe you can keep the stencil on while you hot air solder the balls in place on the RSX and they will not stick to the stencil.
You need a heating plate for reballing, not hot air.
As John Cena says "You never give up"
True! I will never give up!
Shawn gives up all of the time!
22:47 i've seen people use a scalpel and hot air to split merged solder balls, hoping this doesn't bite you later in the video.
"Everything is cheap because I am poor."
Relatable.
great vid!
Thank you for watching!
The very fist one that i made was a PAIN IN THE ASS to make.. OWW GOD! 70h to make
Great video! Where did you buy that aluminium jig?
My friend helped me ordered from this Chinese website
item.taobao.com/item.htm?abbucket=4&id=35343923877
Somehow I can't find it anywhere else. Let me know if you can find it somewhere!
@@hardwarerepair200 Ali express has some
I was hoping #3 at 19:17 was going to be “Oh what the FLUX”
Min. 17:24 You can actually put the holder / RSX on the hot plate instead of using the hot air gun.... Better results indeed...
From where I work, we place the thermocouple on the other side of the board where the component is located ...