PS3 #1: Repair Horror Story | NEC/Tokin Caps and Tantalum Fix EXPOSED!
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2024
- THIS IS NOT A TUTORIAL! Do not attempt what you see. I'm not endorsing all the products or methods I use in the video. I am simply recounting my experience and being critical with the benefit of hindsight.
Back in 2019 I started my journey into repairing PS3s. I had little experience working on consoles this complex. So I didn't know what was in store for me. I did what most self respecting hobbyist does, watch RUclips videos, read online tutorials, and jump head first feeling confident I wouldn't break my neck. What I didn't expect was that most of the available information was misleading. As with most consoles nowadays, SONY wasn't exactly jumping at the opportunity to help out. So the repair community was in the dark.
And times were dark indeed.
This video series follows my repair log for each console. In this video I'm mainly recounting my experience with PS3 #1, since at the time I wasn't recording video. I took relatively few photographs too. So the imagery is pieced together from other videos, pictures or staged to get the point across. It's a reenactment, mostly. Try not to get hung up on discontinuities.
Also, I'm telling the story with the benefit of hindsight. I make silly mistakes in diagnosing the console, choosing repairs, and I tried to detail my thought process. My hope is that being candid about my mistakes will help others avoid making similar ones.
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Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
00:22 - Purchase & Inspection
01:56 - 1st Tantalum Attempt
04:37 - Misinformation & Rationalizations
06:48 - Sciencey, but flawed 2nd Attempt
08:45 - IT'S ALIVE?
10:34 - Postmortem & 3rd Attempt
11:04 - Blue pill keeps the fairy tale alive
12:34 - Delusion fuels the flame
14:26 - Where there's smoke there's fire
16:50 - Just needs more bridge wires, right?
19:00 - Reality don't care how desperate your are!
20:37 - Ghetto Reballing or Coup De Grace?
22:17 - Recipe for Disaster
23:25 - Conclusion
ONE MORE VIDEO!!!! Thank you, Dead Felix!
I have a 80gb PS3 backwards compatible (2007) is that a 90nm GPU?
@@jeremiahbronx4523 I'm not certain about that, but I bet it's probably yes. I think the 65nm was launched in 2008.
@@jeremiahbronx4523 Yes.
Can't wait for PS3#2 video
Can't wait for PS3#2 video
The amount of work put into your videos is amazing
"There's nothing like a microscope to beat your soldering pride into submission."
Hard truth.
Well, the human behavior aspects in this series are what amaze me.
No. I'm not any different from you: from time to time, I get myself in similar spiral of curiosity.
If RUclips keeps pushing your videos to me, I WILL WATCH THEM ALL.
Thanks for your sharing. 👍
you can help youtube with subscription ;P
Exactly same fwiw.. and I never even have HAD a bc ps3 XD but its still so interesting fwiw ykwis
Albeit I have def enjoyed and still do enjoy playing the ps3 for certain ykwis
We are blessed that you didnt just run off after the first video and you even have a second video AND a third one planned. Awesome work man. Reminds me of when I first started to repair GPUs.
RIP PS3 #1, your sacrifices will never be forgotten.
I'm still a beginner at this but I'm more interested in gpu repair. You being honest with mistakes and lessons learned helps a lot. Thank you for this!
Love your way of telling these stories. I can't wait for another episode!
OMG! The series I didn't knew I wanted. As a person that already fixed a PS3 in the past using tantalums, I cannot get more amused.
Dit it last?
@@seguramlk yes, flawlessly. I bet the point of the video is this, tantalums are the easiest fix that everyone with a soldering iron can try, no wonder why a lot of people tried it in first place.
No shit if you use the same amount of capacitance than the tokin it will fail, i fixed these with more capacitance and it lasts, i bet if he measured the caps for continuity a second time it would have shorted, i always put the maximum amount of capacitors i can and a ceramic cap in the side and every ps3 i fix stay fixed because i correct the low capacitance fail that was a problem to begin with.
@@fss1704this aged EXTREMELY poorly lmao
@@Harmonic14why what happen
Esta serie deberia estar en Netflix. Creo que es el mejor contenido que he encontrado en youtube hasta el momento, espero con ansias el segundo episodio. Saludos
Translation: "This series should be on Netflix. I think it's the best content I've found on RUclips so far, I'm looking forward to the second episode."
@@thepwrtank18 gracias por la traducción
@@Vegetal999 gracias a este video evite un desastre en mi PS3 Fat Retrocompatible y 1 año después de la reparación aquí sigue y jugando lo peor para los procesadores cómo Gran Turismo 6 Uncharted 3 y The Last Of US!!!
@@loquendops32009 Como la reparaste?
@@pedroescalona4789 el disipador del PS3 Fat está mal diseñado en la parte del RSX y con el tiempo se irá desoldando, con el mantenimiento y el cambio de pasta vas hacer que dure más pero igual se está desoldando por el mal diseñado es inevitable eso, así que una posible solución (al menos para mí) fue poner un Clamp debajo del RSX y así finalmente el procesador estará Recto alargando mucho más su vida y también es una solución para el GLOD (Luz verde de la muerte)
Can’t wait to see more videos on the journey you have taken. It’s been really informative so far.
It's fantastic that you took the time to document the adventure of what you have learnt and achieved.
Look forward to the next video really enjoying your journey of the PS3.
Thank you for sharing your failures and learnings in this journey of yours. It really does help others from making the same mistakes!
Your work is amazing. I came here from your first video, and i can't even describe the amount of positive emotions i had after watching the videos! Your content is amazing! Keep it up, i love it!
As a techinician myself, i can relate to your pain. But you can do it! Keep going! :)
Can’t wait to see more! I personally had 2 YLODs so this has been an awesome series to watch!
Don't repeat his fails, use more capacitance than the tokin and this wont happen to you, and put a ceramic cap too.
Really interesting and insightful to see your learning process from the past few years. Can't wait to see the next one!
I'll definitely be looking out for the next installations in this series. I even clicked the bell.
What a wonderful retrospection as you always do! I followed the making of delidding tool and they still work by now! Especially delidding rsx became such an easy job. Best Christmas video for me. Many thanks RIP-Felix
For the longest time I struggled to use solder wick. One thing I finally figured out that made it easier: If you just put your iron on top of the braid, with the braid in between the iron and the joint, you're not going to heat anything very efficiently (the braid's coarse surface makes poor thermal contact), and the flux on the braid will burn leaving black soot on your iron, forming an even worse thermal barrier.
What you want to do is *always make sure your iron is touching solder.* The solder wetting between your iron tip and whatever you're heating will make it much more efficient. With the long pads you're working with here, you can do what is imo ideal which is have your iron tip half on the pad and half on the wick, touching both of them. That always gives the best results in my experience. You can also put the iron on part of the wick that's already soaked with solder, rather than a dry part.
In this situation I would *definitely* preheat though, as another commenter pointed out. I'd also probably run the iron over the pad for a bit before bringing the wick to it.
This is amazing advice because for an embarrassingly long amount of time I was horrible with solder wick until I realized that going in between the pad and the wick allows it to soak up more solder. It also probably helps to not use cheap wick.
@@kyle52905 I think the difference between cheap and expensive wick is mostly the flux it's coated with. The wick itself is just copper right? Kinda hard to mess up (but maybe someone knows better than me haha).
Your videos have been amazing to watch, i love the Xbox 360 with all my heart and that love also goes to the PS3, i really love these 7th gen consoles more than anything else. I have learned a lot with your videos about this gen and hope to see more of your future content.
I gave you a subscription not because i am playstation fan, not because i lke your memes or topic whatsoever, but i did that due to fact that you are insanely scientific while being regular Joe (sort of) all the time. Explaining why 22gauge wires generated magical smoke was what i have clicked on this video. This is not a tutorial for sure, it's a case study of a man obsessed with desire to understand. I would easliy trade all my collection of Bones nad CSI::* series for another RIP Felix episode. A document showing step by step how prodigy is being born. An encouragement for others like you to not give up idea of understanding. While still persisting to human flaws. Absolutely masterpiece, can't wait next part.
Christmas came early for this boy. Ty Felix
This channel is just what I needed. I can't wait for the next installment!
Very interesting video!! I was almost literally glued to the screen watching this video!! One of the most interesting and well done videos I have seen in a long long time here on youtube!!!
What a nice video to watch despite it's duration. As you say learning comes at a price, and what you have learned have no price.
Only 2 videos and your already my favorite RUclipsr.
I'm really excited for the second video. Great narration!
Lovely video. My friend and I are now currently embarking frankenstein mod for a A01 console. Really appreciate the work that you did and I see alot of lessons learnt along the way. Well respected Felix!
Keep up the good work a small token of appreciation ❤️
I'm glad you're continuing with this series. I find electonic repair very interesting since it's my passion. I have a fat PS3, but I don't think I'm going to fix it, because it's a non-backward compatible system and is basically worthless compared to a slim model. I will definitely have to fix a true backward compatible A model some day.
Amazing video! Can't wait for the next chapter!
ive watched many a video like this and i've swear i've taken more away from this ONE video and your reports of trial and error than anything else in the same realm of content. so thank you! i'd love to see more and would even support a patreon to see you revive old consoles!
I've been there myself mate with the Nectokens and the amount of time spent taking apart ps3 and reassemble I am going for the Frankinstine mod myself soon I already have 2x RSX 40nm waiting to go into original ps3 backwards compatible consoles takes some patience and not to get stressed respect for you work and working out regarding the bump issues makes sense when putting heat on the board that I would remarkably work again 😂
Ok. By far the best PS3 video on RUclips. Finally some actual helpful info.
Great videos! Wish I knew what you were talking about, but I feel smart listening to it, and the general message isn't lost on me.
This channel is pure gold.
This was awesome to watch, thanks for sharing your knowledge!❤
Great video! I was one of the unfortunate ones who fell for this "fix" (I even posted on that PSX place thread). I didn't own a device that could read the SYSCON until I bought an E01 and simply reflowed the RSX as a temporary fix. It surprisingly STILL works today with all the thermals redone and the delids successful, though I am sure that 90nm RSX will die someday. Might consider practicing RSX swaps on broken non-BC units that have bad RSX chips since I do want to get into BGA work, and then swap in a 40nm RSX. Hopefully someday I can find a working A model and do the same. You're doing god's work by explaining this debacle with these videos. :)
You're an excellent youtuber and person.
Please, continue with your PS3 adventure :)
Very nicely done! Not only did you show what lead you to a certain point, you're also actually willing to admit you screwed up bigtime. Yeah it took a while, but wisdom comes at the expense of experience, it also requires actually acknowledging what went wrong as well as where you went wrong. There are a lot of people who experience something and decide not to learn from it then attempt it again without changing any variables whilst expecting a different outcome (this is the definition of insanity). It's sad that the machine died, but at least you proved once and for all (through experimentation and observation) the re-capping technique was a waste of time.
Another ps3 that bite the dust keep going bro as a person that repairs things also playstation consoles i encourage you that keep learning and developing your repair abilities.
This was one of the most captivating videos I've seen in a while. Very relatable. I like to tell people :
"I'm a Techromancer because I have an unearthly ability to bring dead electronics back to life. And if not, well at least I have spare body parts".
I cant wait for the Next Video ! Amazing work so far
I have thoroughly enjoyed your videos and hope you can continue. Thanks! One bit of advice, You keep using the same used wick to clean the pads. You saturated the wick, you need to use a new bit of wick to continue.
Never stop making videos your stuff is amazing!
Happy to have you part of the community. I ended up getting a busted 60gb BC ps3 and much like you no luck with the recap. Im not going to be doing anything else cause the board itself is in great shape. So its one of those things that its best to send it to someone more capable than i am. Cause I wont pretend to know how to fix it. But I have my personal 20gb and 80gb both BC delidded and well taken care of and currently in my curio.
Using the same amount of capacitance than the tokin is a guaranteed fail, the tantalums near the heat source will increase capacitance faster than the others and if you don't increase the overall capacitance most of the current will flow to them increasing exponentially the current going to them. Ideally you shouldn't depend on it heating to achieve it's capacitance, and a ceramic cap to absorb the hf will help to decrease the heating.
We learn with try & errors. Doing a lot and share to you fearless, make your video incredibly interesting and valuable. Thanks !
This is a great learning opportunity for me
I still own my original PS3 it’s immaculate condition and been looked after and kept clean and no dust. The art is to keep them clean and stop dust buildup. I do electronics and I fixed many PS3s and other PlayStation over time, but I tell you one main cause of the yellow light of death is how the console been treated. So away my PS3 as never been apart and still works like new still and hopefully it will for more years to come.
awesome! cannot wait for the next one
As someone who's destroyed PS2's trying to fix/mod them, i gotta say even attempting reballing is one hell of a feat.
I wouldn't ever see myself even attempt that. Makes for some very interesting content though!
love your vids man keep it up
Great video buddy, keep them coming!
More Videos Please Felix, i Love your videos!!
How is this your third(?) video?? You present like you have been doing it forever. I couldn't care less about PS3 repairs, but I tell ya I'm hooked on this series.
I fixed my YLOD on a CECHA01 from FB Marketplace by de lid "ing the heat sinks and just re-thermal pasteing both sides of the spreaders , I used a bean can easy open lid and a lighter to remove the thermal glue LMFAO and watched a NSC Modz 's guide(s) on how to put the thing back together w/ good pressure to get better cooling. I then modded the case w/ holes and removed the PSU housing and bent the PSU mounting brackets up a bit (same guys cooling tip) to get some air flow between the PSU and the CPU on the board. Now my CECHA01 runs very quite and cool ! No YLOD and no other issues. Hearing your story of all this work and having to take apart your ps3 so many times and try to get it working made me remember all the work I had to put into mine a few years back. When I put it back together the 3rd time I ended up damaging the little ribbon for the power button chip and thought my work w/ the CPU / GPU bricked my unit ... and had to wait over a week shipping time to find it was in fact the common ribbon for the power button. DIY ps3 repair hype!
ruclips.net/video/KxP9V6g4nGg/видео.html
Good stuff, man. I hope you keep making videos.
This Guy and PS3 Community Exploded my Mind, even i solded my PS3 to buy a PS4, i'm fascinated with The community's Inteligence of Rewrite the SysCon to accept Frankies blows my mind
Thanks RUclips for Recommending me this channel
Awesome videos man. I didn't know those yellow caps had an ESR so high. I got 2 PS3s with the YLOD. I'mma try to change the caps because even though they are not always the problem, they can be A problem. If that doesn't work, it'll probably be the GPU that's dead. Anyways, you always learn in the process. Keep it up pal.
Using the same amount of capacitance than the tokin is a guaranteed fail, the tantalums near the heat source will increase capacitance faster than the others and if you don't increase the overall capacitance most of the current will flow to them increasing exponentially the current going to them. Ideally you shouldn't depend on it heating to achieve it's capacitance, and a ceramic cap to absorb the hf will help to decrease the heating.
Your videos are so informative and fascinating. Kinda inspires me a little bit to try to fix my ylod ps3 that has been rotting away in my closet.
Interesting, humble and entertaining video
Amazing video, thanks for sharing your experience - and your mistakes, it's not common to see that. I love and hate your videos. Love because they are very informative. Hate because they basically tell me I've wasted time on those capacitors LOL!
I've been testing with BGA for a while and went through the same "ghetto" equipment. I had a similar hot air station you have and really it was pointless to use with a large nozzle. First because of the very low airflow. But I also analysed the heat distribution with my thermal camera and - as we both experienced - you end up with such uneven temps under a large nozzle that the whole process was pointless. I went through the same "impatience" stage as well, with lots of ripped corners!
You probably know this already, be cautious with your pre-heater, it comes not earthed from the manufacturer. Look forward to your next video.
Yeah, been enjoying your vids on the T8280. I loved how you went to town installing a larger fan. TBH seemed like a lateral move, but it was fun to watch regardless. I agree about the loud fan being obnoxious, but I know exactly what you mean about it serving as an indicator of the temps by it's change in pitch...lol! I kinda want to keep it that way for that reason.
Yeah, the earthing issue is a problem.
Excellent work (again) I can't wait for part 2, thank you
Like you, I done tantalum capacitor fix and like you my ps3 failed again. I read some of your post on psx place, seen your long video on ps3 issues. You convinced me to replace rsx with an 40nm version. But as you in this vidéo I own cheap equipment. Just wait your next videos to know your history with ps3 fat fix.
And like you I don't want to buy an ps3 already modified but do it by my own.
Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge.
Best regards
Well, don't let me slow you down. I reccomend getting a cheap COK-00X MB (donor) and practicing until you have it down. Will take a good 5 or 6 attempts. And you will get lulled into a false sense of confidence and want to try it before you're ready. So try to resist the urge until you have sucessfully removed, reballed, and reflowed the RSX at least 3 times. CPU too, if you are at it. You'll learn a lot from that practice. Mainly it's to get used to your equipment and get a feel for the way the board reacts. And do yourself a favor, bake the boards at 100c for a minimum of 4 hours (preferably 24hrs) to remove moisture! That actually is a big deal.
Luckily, you don't have to wait. I documented all my repair logs on the PSX place. So if you just can't wait for a video, you can always read about my journey!
www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/page-204#post-301356
At the bottom there is a spoiler with links to all my PS3 repair logs.
@@ripfelix3020 : Hi,
Thanks a lot for your reply. I will do what you said, training me on a cheap board. Thanks too for link on your PS3 post, I will read that with attention.
Best regards
Just remember that I was learning as I went. So I had to correct incorect ideas as time went by. So don't take what I say there as gospel! That journey was frought with minefields I walked strait into.
It's good for a laugh tho.
I started reballing back in 2008 mainly HP dv series laptops, it took me about 100 attempts to finally get one working but boy it felt great to see the hp logo boot up. I did it for 5 years on, the repair lasted 6 to 24 months.
I just found this channel and it's a good one to find BEFORE you destroy a PS3.
Best series on yt right now
The biggest problem with any of these quick fix solutions is that none of them bother to check the syscon error codes via the serial connection, it's not going to do you any good trying to fix something when you don't even know what's broken to begin with.
While a better iron and tip would certainly make a big difference, the footage early on of desolder braid and cold-soldered tantalum capacitors was possible to improve with better technique alone.
First, pre-heat the solder before introducing freshly fluxed braid. Even better: Hover the braid above while pre-heating so that the braid is not as cold as it otherwise would be, but you don’t want it too hot since that will waste the flux. Even more important, cut the braid short and use tweezers even if it means you have to use multiple pieces. It’s pretty much impossible to saturate the tip of the braid that’s still attached to a large roll since the solder will just migrate further toward the roll but it’s important to recognize that the heat does the exact same thing (migrates). You can get a lot more solder per inch and much better flow while keeping the heat where it belongs with short pieces. I just might be the king of stingy solder braid technique. Sometimes I cut a piece so short that the strands have difficulty staying braided!
For soldering the capacitors to such heavy contacts you definitely want to tin and pre-heat the contacts by holding your iron there before introducing the fluxed component to the already molten contact. The relative thermal mass of the capacitor is so low it will readily absorb the solder and the fresh flux on the capacitor and leave a good shiny joint. Obviously, you can’t do this on both sides simultaneously and the component will already be fixed in place after doing one side so you will need a different tactic on the other side. There you will have to create the thinnest possible heat bridge you can between the pad and the tip of your iron, only introducing fresh solder to the tip after it gets the pad up to temp. At the same time you want to bring the tip in contact with the capacitor so that it will get fresh solder with fresh flux core and bridge to the already-hot pad (if it hasn’t already).
I do this kind of soldering with an obsolete Hakko clone that takes the old T18 tips (not cartridge-style). Heck, I’ve done much more extreme soldering including crypto mining ASIC boards with terminal blocks the size of cart battery terminals.
I empathise with this experience so much lol. It's such a defeating feeling when you aren't able to fix something or AT LEAST 100% confirm the issue so you can put it to rest. I always feel like I can't relax until there is a conclusion and it causes a lot of needless stress.
hey felix! loving your videos man, very informative. Do you have plans to make something related to bluray repair drive exclusively im currently trying repair mine. You are doing gods work.
Thank you for supporting Turkish subtitles i really needed it thank you.
Wow it's crazy how much we think alike, I'd not have spent my money in the same way but I'm right now thinking about getting a pre-heater and I do not need one.
All because of this very informative video.
amazing work! im so obsessed with the ylod ever since your first video! your obsession for finding the problem with the PS3 is contagious! it really makes me want to get into PC gpu repairs lol. or even to just start to mess with ps3s gpu trying to make my own Frankenstein haha
Using the same amount of capacitance than the tokin is a guaranteed fail, the tantalums near the heat source will increase capacitance faster than the others and if you don't increase the overall capacitance most of the current will flow to them increasing exponentially the current going to them. Ideally you shouldn't depend on it heating to achieve it's capacitance, and a ceramic cap to absorb the hf will help to decrease the heating.
For me my obsession is my Xbox 360 phat. Tried the 3 rrod fix but it did not work, maybe the Hana chip needs replacing
Time taken in horror of another ylod - priceless , for everything else there's mastercard
Great job! I was always thinking about learning to reball but the experience is expensive
One of the best video on YLOD :)
thank you these videos! looking forward to more! I have an 80gb launch model and managed to get it to green LOD. =/ I've been very scared to touch it since. didn't replace the tokens but I did try the reflow method. idk if I'll ever try reballing my self but I'm still holding onto the console in hopes of finding someone qualified in my area to get it working again.
can't wait for part 2 very interesting!
cant wait for ur next video
i really enjoyed your videos , thanks alot with all my support 👍👏
The reason why your PS3 worked again several times, was because the heat you put for the tantalums, actually traveled to the RSX nearby and temporarily restored your RSX to a working condition that would soon fail again. Would be fun to see a frankenstein mod with tantalums replaced too.
Theres also the infamous coin “fix” which forces the RSX bga to hold together. That’s how I got my CECH-B temporarily working again but thats a console best saved for the Frankenstein mod.
Using the same amount of capacitance than the tokin is a guaranteed fail, the tantalums near the heat source will increase capacitance faster than the others and if you don't increase the overall capacitance most of the current will flow to them increasing exponentially the current going to them. Ideally you shouldn't depend on it heating to achieve it's capacitance, and a ceramic cap to absorb the hf will help to decrease the heating.
only way to saved the fat models is by replacing the rsx or just buy slim, all this are temporary fix sadly
Good job man. I've learned a lot from this.
Thanks for the video I learned a lot of valuable lessons
Wonderful, when you upload PS3 number 2?
awesome video waiting for part 2
Love those stories, need all the way through 😅
I respect for your challenge !!
Very well done Felix!
you are an artist...
Amazing work.
Good video @RIP Felix !
I have fixed three consoles so far with recapping, two of them were turning on fine and then crashing when loading a game or playing one. One had instant yold, I have used a cutting knife to get rid of the tokins and soldered new caps only with the iron. The capacitors were recovered from dead laptops. 6 months all of them still working.
Great work! Keep it up!
Coup de gras -> Coup de grace
Awesome video mate
Im glad i stored my cechA away and sat on it.
Maybe one day a fix will be found and ill spend the money to have somebody work on it.
Im usually pretty good about fixing my own consoles, i have done so for many in the past.
But i wont lie.
The crap you have to do to keep a ps3 alive scares me.
For now i just have a cfw cech 2101 as my main ps3
Yes! Another video!
You inspire me to be an electronical engineer
I love your vids man. I hope to see you around more. Also, nothing wrong with the way you say NEC, but yea you do just say each letter.
I'm interested in this entire story going ok.. I can't wait till the next video