2001 Nissan Altima Timing Chain and Oil Pump Replacement (Part 1) DIY
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- Опубликовано: 21 май 2016
- Timing Chain and Oil Pump Replacement on 2001 Nissan Altima (Part 2):
• 2001 Nissan Altima Tim...
Timing Chain and Oil Pump Replacement on 2001 Nissan Altima (Part 1):
• 2001 Nissan Altima Tim...
This is part 1 of how to change the timing chain and replace the timing chain cover which has an integrated oil pump. This oil pump has become very noisy on this vehicle and needs to be replaced.
The timing chain was likely fine, as the vehicle only has about 75k miles, but when you go through this much labor, it's just a good idea to replace it.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video. 
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Really liked your tutorial man, lots of people skip forward time but you showed the entire process. Subscribed!
I'd never remember where all those bolts go. Whenever I do work on my car, I take a picture of everything I take off, then I place the bolts back in their original holes. If for some reason I cant place them back in their hole, I put the bolts in the part that I took off. It saves me SO much time and I don't lose track of where they go.
But whatever works for you man. Great video.
My Nissan Altima has 268,000 miles on it and found out it jumped time. now in your videos you make it look easy but I guess I will be junking my car and get me another one. Great video!!!
Well I guess the video did help you to realize you didn't want to deal with the problem, lol
50sKid lol yeah but I started on it today but I took the valve cover off and there is a thick black crust in between the valves and everything looks burnt. So now I am wondering is there a bigger problem cause the oil ports on top was covered in a oil pie crust.
I just finished mine. It took a solid 12 hours, but not too difficult. Definitely easier than the intake manifold gasket.
But then I was backing it out of the driveway and my fuel pump up and died. There goes another $100! -_-
@@50sKid no u must wait for 2 part 😮😂
Oh I was have a blast with this beast...until I dumped transmission fluid all over me after removing CV brace. lol! totally forgot that happens. Awesome job man and you don't know how much you helped me and others get through this nightmare. 👍👍👍
Nice!
20:07 - perfect description of how to get the upper Idler out. Thank you for this! 👍👍👍👍👍👍
All I can say is wow. Better you than me. You are one brave guy! Great video as always.
Just gotta say thanks, man! I've got an old body style '97 I'm working on and it's been a project of pains. Those 2 nuts at 50:20 in the vid were my trouble (this time *LOL*) after a lot of prying and gaining nada. Between both your vids, it'll help me get portions of this done right since this is the first time I've ever attempted engine work. Back in 2018 at 288K, the water pump died and damaged thankfully only the head gasket, so trying to get 'er back on the road. While it's apart, working on a minor rebuild to freshen it up even though it sounded fine a few days after it ran hot, so it hoping it won't have to be touched till the odometer begins with 4 or 5 or more. This was 4 years ago, so hoping that '01 is still going for you (or for whoever may be using it now).
Thank god for you man, especially part 2! I had a time trying to figure it out but your part 2 helped so much!!
Awesome!! I need to change next. The pvc was a challenge to get to. Thanks for you help.
I like the tip about the orientation of the belts 👍🏻never occurred to me before
Great video. I'm rubbish with remembering bolts. When I do this in using a marker pen and zip lock bags. Id rather take the extra 20 mins hand writing every nut and bolt I remove. Makes it easy to remember where they go after without worrying if u miss any
This video clarifies some doubts, thank you.
Oh my gosh, so many bolts... I lost track... I think I would place each set of bolts pertaining to its own parts in plastic bags and also label those specific larger bolts using color stickers. Nice work 50
This is a great video, especially since i own this exact car. So informative
This is a great video, and precisely describes the problem I have. A general question: what is the risk/outlook for the engine if I didn't do this repair?
Do you know if it's the same procedure on a Sentra 1.6l? Looks pretty similar and I suspect that my Sentra has skipped a tooth on the timing chain but the timing marks are not visible. How do you check the timing??
I am repairing the Head on the engine to 2003 Nissan Altima and the timing chain must come. What a pain. Great video though .
Cheesus Crust, Man! That sounded like a buzzsaw!
Great video. Just what I was looking for.
I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L with a similar oil pump. It was an elderly couple's for 20 years. I don't think they used it much. Low miles, 6,000 a year average, and likely wasn't driven hard ever. I think they let oil sit in it and maybe their mechanic put snake oil in it as a sales pitch. There was gummy honey-colored stuff on the refill cap.
Something is causing this Pathfinder to knock at startup for 3-4 seconds and then between 1,800 and 3,300 RPM. If coasting between 1800 and 3300, it ceases. I think I caught rod bearing wear early and I replaced them. And checked the mains. Mains were good. Two rods had mild wear. No slack or slope in anything. Metal flakes stopped appearing. But still the knock between those RPM. It runs perfectly, otherwise. And the body and interior is like new. So it's a nice one I'd like to keep long-term.
What do you think about this idea?
If the oil isn't changed well can the valve system in the pump stick or malfunction and cause oil pressure to be insufficient? The pressure is 100% consistently poor at startup for 3 seconds and under load between 1800 to 3300 RPM. Makes no sense, this loss of pressure at fixed time, other than faulty pump.
I know there is also a pan gasket leak at the front and back. I thinned the oil as an experiment to see if pressure/noise changed and oil began quickly dripping from both ends of the oil pan when it was at warm idle. I thinned the oil 50% with motor flush, which is basically kerosene. I drained out two quarts and put in 2 quarts cleaner. So I have to pull the pan anyways to fix those leaks, so might as well pull inspect and replace the pump as well. Also have to check timing as well and swap all those parts as their age is unknown. The pressure problem was present before the leaks were noted. So the big leaks are new and the problem is the exact same.
Do you know of a good oil pump replacement video of my motor or very similar? I found a timing kit one, but no oil pump.
Hey 50s kid
I have a Nisan pulsar GTIR in Australia it makes exactly the same sound as your Altima I replaced the oil pump and timing chain case and it didn't fix the winding noise so I'm guessing it's in the timing chain would you have any Idea what would make that noise in the timing chain
Hi, 50skid i ran into a problem with the bracket you took off at 16mins into the video , it wouldn't come off but was able to slid down out of the way a little , any suggestions ?
Timing Chain and Oil Pump Water Pump, Replacement are supposted to be done at the same time... along with other replacable parts, tightners, guides + see OWNERS GUIDE !
Recently got an 01. The only problem was the timing assembly needed to be replaced. How would you go about doing it?
thank you sir very informative I have a 2000 Altima and replace the engine twice, the first engine I put in it had a rod knock and now the second has a similar noise as yours does in this video but when it gets hot and oil light comes on. so thinking that the oil pump and chain guides, since there is plastic debris in the oil pan now that i removed it.
Thanks for taking the time to document this. I just finished mine and your info was extremely helpful.
Target of opportunity. I love that phrase!🤣
Awesome video man. Thank you very much
I swear to god after watching your videos I thought for sure at 43:25 you were gonna be like "welp, whole Axel has to cone out to get at this one"! lol
With this car, I wouldn't have been surprised. Nearly everything has to come off!
The damn axle DOES have to come off to do the intake manifold. lol. ...Nissan really shoehorned this truck motor in here. I got my altima for free but at this point I've put a grand and 90+ hours into it. Definitely was not worth it. lolol
I have watched about one third and I am too tired just watching you. You are one heck of a mechanic. Compared to Honda or BMW Nissan is extremely difficult to take apart or put back
Definitely a pain in the butt, these Nissans.
my son has one of these I told him to get rid of it and buy a civic. I've worked on it a bunch of times it is poorly made.
From what I can assess from pt1 is Nissan intended for the engine to be pulled to do this job.
how do u remove the immobilizer on this if keys lost ?
I have an 08 mercury grand marquis that does the samething when it cold on first start in the morning, and I left it runs for 5 minutes the noise gone when I start the car again, and again when I start it about for 8 or 9 hours the car make the noises again, but I really don't know if it's chain or oil pump
I'm only 14 mins in, but it looks lile he's not gonna pull the engine for this? Idk man, I think it would be WAY easier to pull the engine. There's hardly enough room.
My 2005 altima does the same noise when i cold start it .. So where do i start? Do i start with the timing belt or oil pump?
You do both at the same time--when you go that far in you just might as well replace the chain for good measure.
This is a real mechanic that doesnt guess i admire the work
Hi 50sKid, when jacking up the engine, where must the jack be...? thanks in advance ..
on the edge of the transmission bellhousing right where it joins the engine
Thx for the video.apparently I have a bad camshaft,is it possible to replace it without removing the timing chain for this car ?That is, without removing the timing chain cover?
No you need to remove the timing chain itself and then the chain sprocket.
I love this video. And he's pretty funny and smart. BUTTTT It makes me so anxious he doesnt sort his bolts out and just throws them all together.
Actually I put the bolts into little groups in a clockwise fashion in my parts tray. However I found that this job was so huge and Nissan used SOOOO many brackets on this engine that I just filled up my parts tray and kind of lost track of which group belongs to which part. I then ended up moving and storing each group of bolts with each part. The parts tray works fine on smaller jobs.
Yeah... Im still at the point in my life where I HAVE to uses the used oil filter boxes to sort and label my bolts. Good video dude!
everybody has their own way of doing things but im with you i lay my bolts out in a order
Chinese do make things so complete it 😄nice video thanks 😎✌🎶🇺🇸
How many times did u have to the. Over the engine to line up the marks to tdc ??
It is a "hunting" system, so if the marks don't line up exactly on the chain don't worry about it. Just put the crank pulley to TDC before you take it apart then line up the marks when you put the new chain on.
It's strange that in some Altima's, like yours 2001 and mine 97, the right drive shaft support bracket doesn't connect to the upper oil pan, while in some others, like mine 2000, it does 🤔 Extra work 😥
Hi 50sKid, I'm just about to buy a 2000 Altima with 128k on the odometer; I'd like to use it for commuting once a week. You have a lot of experience with them, clearly; is there any characteristic issue with 2nd Gen Altimas that I should be aware of?
The intake manifold gasket always fails around the number 1 cylinder. We had it replaced a few years ago before I was working on cars. But it is a very difficult job. Eric the car guy has a 2 part video on it. I know for a fact that is the biggest pattern failure with this car. Other than the particular oil pump issue I had (and I don't know how wide spread it is), that's the only "big" problem I know about.
+50sKid thanks! your videos are really great
You got a good car
I bought my 2k Altima with 107k mi. At 132k the chain Tentioners started going going bad and the chain was going to break. I had a 93 Altima with 235k mi and never had the tensioners go bad. A shop will charge $2k to do this job. I will never buy another Nissan . It only costs me $2k to have my entire engine rebuilt in my 91 integra . And I have a Vtech. The brakes on the Altima Are not very good with. I’d never purchase another Nissan again unless it’s an older one before Puegot bought them .
if you don't want to remove the bottom from the motor the cover chain don't come out?
Unfortunately you can't remove the timing cover without removing the upper oil pan like he did in this video. I tried for about an hour, but the intake for the oil pump is in the way. Now that I'm past it, it really wasn't as annoying as it sounds. But still a huge PITA compared to literally any Honda or Toyota I've done chains on...
How come every single bolt is coming out as if you had previously loosened it prior? Even 14mm are coming out with the impact driver without any banging. I know you are in west coast but still I would expect at least little struggle!
Looks like you have impact wrench. Is that Fuel 18volts? I can see that one zipping everything off instantly
Milwaukee that's how. And I think he's using the mid torque
The only bolts I strugged with were the crossmember bolts. Soaked them in WD40 for a few days before I started, but everything else came right off. ...Probably helps that the whole engine was coated with a nice layer of caked on grease/oil from years of leaking.
Hey 50'sKid I have a 1997 Nissan Altima GXE, I'm guessing I can follow this video and it's all the same process since the build is the same?
yep
is this the same as a 01 sentra gxe
The Sentra is a little different but the whole entire job is basically the same. I believe EricTheCarGuy has videos on the Sentra.
Is this the 1.8 or 2.5 litre engine?
I have a 2002 Nissan Altima SE 3.5L V6 & only had it a few months and it had an oil change when I'd bought it & it has oil in it, I think I even put Lucas in it at one point, but all of a sudden it's Clacking very loud & I've stopped driving it, my oil pressure light is flickering as well on & off. I'm worried it may be the oil pump/main bearing, I've been told,as a possibility. I do a lot of DIY maintenance over many years of many cars, but this is a tough problem. Suggestions? I'm going to watch both of these videos & see if it's something I can tackle, I was just about to try to sell this vehicle & need to, asap, so I don't wanna lose my entire investment completely to this problem.
TBH, just replace the engine. Find a low-mileage one from a junkyard. Once the chain goes on these, the rest of the motor isn't far behind. I bet your oil looks like glitter and now that grit is in all of the oil journals...
Where yu buy your part from
Is this a 2.5?
So, 50sKid, When you completed the job and restarted the car the wining noise was gone. Long term did the oil pump and timing chain replacement actually eliminate the wining noise? or did it return in a mater of days, months? Interested to now.
I am in the middle of this job right now and I am feeling quite optimistic. (It's a PITA but still less so than it was to do the intake manifold gasket). I hope he can give us his own result, but here is my take on this job so far...
Once I got the timing cover off, I took it apart and saw that the thrust clearance in the oil pump was pretty wallowed out and galled. I recently replaced a PS pump on a VW that was barely pumping and it was also worn in the exact same way, so I (reluctantly) ordered a new pump (melling). After comparing the old chain against the new one, I'm almost certain that the weak oil pump is why I jumped time in the first place. The new chain was less than 2mm shorter than the old one. The guides were as worn as you'd expect for 227k miles, but even the tensioner was not maxed out or anything. ...I believe that it was taking like 10 seconds to get enough pressure into the hydraulic tensioner to stop slapping furiously but even then it was still too weak to really properly hold the timing chain. My oil light was never on for more than 4-5 seconds after starting the car, but I am certain that my oil pressure was literally at the lowest possible PSI to shut the light off.
Since I have a bunch of 240SX friends, I was able to bounce some ideas off of them, and it turns out that every one of them had problems again within a year after replacing the timing chain and guides, but not one of them replaced their oil pump.
But really after comparing the wear inside my old oil pump to that failed power steering pump I am really feeling confident that with a new pump my KA will once again be the bulletproof truck motor that it was designed to be. I honestly think that I could have JUST replaced the oil pump, re-timed it and it would have been fine. But for $90 more to get a timing chain set on rockauto, it's not worth experimenting. lol
fisqual, thanks for the reply. I'm still trying to get the crankshaft bolt off. It is a PITA. I am going to replace the timing chain, guides and tensioners as well. Got 198K on the vehicle. 2009 Versa. I'll let you know how it goes. Was your vehicle making that same noise?
@@jamesellis580 I had to heat up the crank bolt with a MAP gas torch for a good 5 minutes before it would come out with an impact gun.
My Altima only makes this noise for 10 seconds or so on startup then it quiets down considerably, but still sounds like a whiny power steering pump (think Ford Ranger) all the time. The biggest actual trouble I had was the chain slapping on startup.
Honestly, if it's a CVT versa, it's probably the transmission. The "death whine" sound is pretty similar to this sound. If it is actually your motor though, you can get a working used one for $300 at a junkyard pretty easily (because the CVTs go out and are too expensive to reasonably repair). Other than the actual logistics of it, (getting a motor, renting or buying an engine crane) swapping an engine is a lot easier than doing the timing chain and then you get newer everything else as well. I am only even doing the timing chain on my Altima because I am horribly stubborn and want the experience. lol. ...And KAs are known for timing chain trouble, so I'd probably even have to do this on a junkyard engine before I install it.
Versas on the other hand tend to have great engines, just terrible CVTs. ...Oh, and the electronic throttle bodies have trouble sometimes. But otherwise they're pretty reliable little cars.
Fisqual, This is how it all started. One cold morning about 30 degs, started the car, whined for 1-2 secs, figured belt or pulley bearing starting to go. Drove fine with no abnormal noise or handling for a 100 mile trip. Next morning, cold again whined continually and whine increased/decreased with engine speed, trans in park. Drove another car. That night found oil level below dip stick, found small leak at oil filter gasket. Added 1qt of oil to proper level. Started car, whined for about 30 secs. Noise began to dissipate until gone, even when accelerated to 2K RPM. Next 2 days, drove with no noise and oil level stayed in range, but dropped some. Planned oil change and filter on 4th day. So went to drive the car on 3rd day. Noise appeared again on startup. Been garaged since. Its an 09 Versa 1.8L with 198K miles. With the mileage and oil level dropping I figure the oil pump got damaged. To do so the timing cover has to come off so, I'm going to change the chains and guides as well. Oh, yeah, oil pressure idiot light never came on through all this. Drained oil and removed pan. Oil was normal no metal shavings or debris. I hope I'm on the right track and I had hoped 50sKid would confirm or not if the job he did eliminated the whine. Thanks for the feedback!!
@@jamesellis580 I just finished! My noise was not nearly as severe as 50sKid's noise but the whine I always had with this car is now dead silent! I literally didn't know these motors could be this quiet. It really does sound like you're on the right track with yours, especially since you noticed that your oil had gotten that low. Good luck!
So, it looks like I'll be tackling this job on my 99 Altima (205k miles). Ugh. Can you list some of the important tools you used for the job? I'm particularly interested in the model of the MIlwaukee electric impact you're using and also the flex head ratchet.
The milwaukee is the 3/8" impact driver (there is only one). Any brand would do. I have a love hate relationship with that harbor freight flexhead ratchet. The head is too floppy and the switch is too easy to accidentally reverse (but for $20 you cannot beat it). A fixed, long ratchet would have been better for this job (which I bought right after). I'm not sure there was much else special used--you just need a basic metric socket set and a set of extensions (again, harbor freight is great for extensions & misc).
That impact wrench is the 1/2" drive Milwaukee M-18 Fuel or something, isn't it? Probably wouldn't be doing 700 ft-lbs with a 3/8" drive impact.
Oh yeah I forgot that I also used the big one for the crank bolt. Yes, 1/2" M-18 which can actually do 900 ft-lbs (it's underrated). But any decent $100 pneumatic impact will do that job if you happen to have an air compressor. It's the cheaper way to go for sure. I just have the electric impact because I hate fighting with the air hose in my cramped garage. Actually, you know what is great air tool to get? An astro onyx nano for like $105 from Amazon. 450 lbs and super compact.
On mine its was the ac compressor
As you were saying to drop the engine brace, I was thinking to myself, no way that'll fly here in Ohio. I've tried to remove it before and I know that the bolts will break if I try. ...Then you said you're in California :'(
My car jump timing how to fix it
Junior Jacobs sorry bud you are going to have to pull the head and replace some bent valves on top of replacing the timing kit.
Is it the 2.4?
+Angel T. Yes
Ты не заметил что у тебя нижний маслянный поддон слегка вогнут, замят, эти моторы очень чувствительны к этому, иам очень маленький зазор между маслоприемником и поддоном, и даже легкое замятие вызывает проблемы с подачей масла после запуска мотора.
where's the pvc value?
under the intake manifold on the backside of the engine. Attached to the timing cover. Super annoying to get to.
go on...where is part 2??
ruclips.net/video/WMX8YDUnsbM/видео.html
No wonder my neighbor is selling his for $500 . Basically disassemble 3/4 of engine.
Nisan pulsar 1999
I have the same issue with that whine on my 2001 GXE so f***ing annoying
be a macanic not part changer 😮
Wow, you are hoping that it is the timing chain? Come on; you are lot better than that! Surely, factory service manual must gives diagnostic procedure before condemning timing chain
You didn't watch the opening intro, did you? I think it is the oil pump, not the timing chain. I'm changing the timing chain because one does not go through the work of removing the timing cover to replace the integrated oil pump without installing a new timing chain while you have access.
I did not see where you put a manual dial pressure gauge to actually measure the oil pressure. I also did not hear that you put a mechanics stethoscope on the timing chain cover to pinpoint the noise. May be you did all that but just did not include it in the video.
You already replaced few things without solving the original noise problem. Once again I do not know if there were other issues which warranted them to be replaced.
You have a point, but the timing cover is way too buried to get a stethoscope on while the engine is running, with the belt moving around and everything. Just not safe. Also, the oil pump is in the part of the cover that is behind the crank pulley, so it's basically hidden.
Yeah I could have checked the oil pressure manually to make sure that the pressure gauge wasn't sending a false reading during start up, however I reasoned that if the pressure gauge was going bad, I would see the oil pressure light go on/off during driving, and that wasn't happening. Only upon start up when cold.
I dunno, I suppose I had been thinking about the problem so much that once I got the idea of the oil pump in my mind, with the pressure warning light staying on a bit too long, and once I knew that the pump was a part that went bad often enough for someone to sell a replacement part along with a timing chain kit, AND once I knew that the oil pump was integrated into the timing cover which was "inside" the engine, where the sound has always seemed to be coming from (right next to the power steering pump!), I was pretty certain. There really was nothing else it could be.
Given the reasoning you just provided, I now agree with you and take my original criticism back. I suppose next time somebody tells me about timing belt disadvantages, I will throw this video in their face!
After doing this job myself, I 100% agree with 50s Kid's assessment. The old chain was only about 2mm longer than the new one, the tensioners weren't maxed out or anything, the guides had a very acceptable amount of wear. However, the tensioners are dependent on oil pressure, and so they don't tension properly until your pressure is up. I had 10 seconds of slap upon startup and it just sounded slightly loose all the time even though my oil pressure light was only ever on for maybe 4-5 seconds upon startup. ...And what made me finally tackle the job is that my altima literally jumped time and started to run like complete ass. Oil pump is $100 and the timing chain set was also $100. The car was free and it's pretty much rust free, so I'm fixing it even though I hate working on it. :)
They make cars not for you to work on it anymore, ridiculous with all the brackets bolts you can have that Nissan.....
I know! I'm not a fan of working on this car...
What a pain in the ass I'd rather pay to have it done.
Enjoy watching your videos, but can I just say I AM NEVER BUYING A NISSAN! I thought BMW was bad about having to take crap off to get at what you wanted to fix but geez!
Hahaha, right? BMWs are so easy in comparison to most other cars. Well engineered, just poor quality parts.
I will never buy a Ford Escape because the sheer amount of ads