Back in the 80’s when I had a Grasshopper I absolutely dreamed of owning my very own RC10 gold pan, but never did. Now 35 years later I’m getting back into rc and my love affair with the RC10 is still strong. If the price is ever reasonable I’ll get one to put on the shelf next to my Tamiya Brat. Great video. Cheers
You've inspired me to restore mine!! I've got an A-Stamp Edinger, bought in 1983, that I Raced until 1988 - with a slew of upgrades!!! I Raced with Team Associated, Semi-Pro... so MY Buggy isn't worth anything!! 😜 I did get a few driving lessons from Jim Halsey - but that doesn't make my Car worth anything either! Just some cool memories.... Mine was fitted with a Stealth Transmission later. The COST of the original 6 Gear would be SO much, that mine will be no more than a Resto-Mod. 😉 But quite exciting to see you attempt a true type of Restoration!! If you can find a Novak Rooster I, it would at least be a period correct ESC. ..... The Ceramic inside that Mechanical Speed Controller cracks over nearly 40 Years, and is literally impossible to bring to like new condition. If it was a Competition MSC, Reverse was and still is, verboten in Racing! 😉 Frankly, NO Buggies look that good or realistic anymore.
Was never able to pick up an original RC 10 GOLD PAN . But I was lucky enough to pick up 3 re release a few years ago, sadly I never had enough time to assemble one. Thanks for sharing.
RCKicks love yr show im 59 yrs ols been a modelbuilder from the 70s in 80 built rc tug boat by blue prints 300 dollar futaba radio 2 motorcycle batters
Nice! I'm currently restoring an A stamp RC10 right now. Still such an epic buggy, the grand daddy of all modern RWD buggies. I have the Rere Classic and the Rere Worlds. ❤
Nicely done Gavin!! Looks amazing, I'm also doing a resto on a Cadillac A Stamp just not going box art. Running a modern servo and a Hobby wing 1060 but keeping the stock motor for now :)
Great car. They are quite a bit faster stock on a proper ESC. Mine is Cadillac #6010 version kit without bearings. I bought the bearing kit the same day though as well as a tekin esc. Still remember it. Never tried the mechanical controller, nobody I knew ever used it. Garbage even then. Glad you are driving it. These cars are made to run. Very robust, no real worries about wear and tear if set up proper. Good quality stuff from the past. Not barfed out of china. In those days it really made the tamiyas look like toys at the local track though. Showing up with one of these on race day in about 1987 really made a lot of people groan because they were doomed. Watching this made me go out in the cold and run mine a bit for fun. Funny facts from back in the day: many owners hated the gold pan and swapped for graphite. They drilled em, chopped and butchered em to make them 'light' Also, many just cut the body off in the back at the shock tower to leave the rear open. I still have a baffed out old body with the back cut off with nothing but a tab left to fit the mount post. Imagine doing that today with how collectible these are. Who knew? Guys also used to stick subaru brat wheels on the front to replace the skinnies and make it look beefier up front. But hey we were 18 and a lot of these kits got seriously hacked in the name of good fun. Cheers.
I have a classic RC 10 that hasn't seen the light of day since the 80's. I'm having it re done with modern goodies. I can't believe it's been so long since I've driven it. I'm excited to drive it again! Great video!
This was my first buggy with full bushings, mechanical speed control and stock motor. It was so slow lol .. I ran out and spent another $200 on bearings, Novak esc and a Jr’s Choice mod motor and was very happy with the speed
Put a few washers under the speed control servo to raise where it sweeps on the resistor. Your servo disk / arm should be about 1/8" of clearance over the chassis tub. At the hobby shop I worked at we used to stock extra 6714 bypass arms and we would rig them up on the brake side too to get full brakes.
I have an rc10 ds and even though they're different I'm trying to get a more recent video and not a video from 2013. This video has shown me a lot and worked for me.
When you ran it and drove it over the low kerb I noticed how perfectly the suspension handled it. Absolutely no bounce at all. That's partly due to the weight of the ally chassis, but yes, mainly due to the excellent dampers! Heh, yes I did pause and comment below before the vid ended.
I really miss my old RC10 Team car. Black dyed nylon, HPI 2-speed trans. I much preferred the Stealth trans compared to the original. I remember building many originals and spending dozens of hours on lovingly filing the metal gears.
I have an all original RC10 1st Gen w/ mechanical speed control that I am getting ready to restore. I would love to get another one to upgrade with all modern electrics to run on the track!
I no longer have my original one from the late 80's, but I do have one that I bought from some dude in the US more than 15 years ago. I paid £85 plus shipping, so approx 100 squids. Ironically it came with an illegal 75mhz radio set-up, so I had to install 27mhz in stead. I did run it round a couple of club tracks a few times and really enjoyed it! I shall pass it on to some great great niece or nephew when I die! And let#s face it, as I'm only middle aged at 66 . . .
The single most influential RC car ever built. I have mine from 1987 and another model (graphite). These things still work, handle amazing and fly. You can do a BEC wiring with that mechanical speed control.
good to see these old classics running again, loved my 90's RC10 Worlds Car (granted it was more a chassis built from spares). Keep thinking it's time to get the Schumacher Bosscat chassis i have in the loft running
We used to run with the gear cover and the wing clear. A properly working resistor speed control like that one was no joke! Mine was forward and brakes and was proportional.
Love it, the retro camel yellow and gold pan 🤩 a fantastic thing indeed. Remember racing against these with my Mardave Meter (long wheel base) which I’d put in a Reedy modified 19x2 gold dot motor in.
Looks amazing.. such a great car.. always wanted one back in the day seeing the ads in the mags, had a later truck verison. Be great to see this on the track with updated electrics :) ace seeing it running
I have a NIB Cadillac version bought in Japan and brought here. It has a stamp by from Yokomo (the importer) and Associated Japan (the distributor) on the side of the box where a US box has the model #. Still unbuilt and sitting in my closet.
My buddy's one in the 80's didn't have reverse and we would make fun of him😂 ...and we had grasshoppers and hornets🤣 ...his fancy expensive car didn't even have reverse 😭 we were such idiots 😂🤣
I was thinking about this. I remember a buddy of mine having one as well,and I also remember something about it not having reverse also. Thank you for confirming that I'm not crazy,or just getting old and not remembering correctly LOL
My 1984 rc10 had the variable resistor throttle. It had braking but no reverse. Now it has a Hobbywing ESC with braking and reverse. So much better. Where can I get new wheels for it?
@@peterrenaud9639 reverse wasnt allowed in racing. plus motors had advanced timing so it was also not the best for motors to run backwards. but again no reverse on the track. and it was a racing based car.
My friend had great success racing these back in the day, they used to place all the nylon suspension arms and parts in Dylon dye, apparently it strengthened them as well as giving the parts slight colour, was a well known 'cheat' back then.
You might be having some issues with the stickers as far as size because that is a reproduction body and I can tell you for sure that the penguin bodies are off in size. I have an original body on my 1st RC10 with reproduction stickers from MCI and they fit, even the stripes on the side of the body fit. The second body that I have on my most recent RC10 restoration was painted by Andy Jacobson and is an actual spare Protech body that was put out by AE which they no longer make. I have a 3rd painted RC10 body which is Penguin reproduction and doesn't fit like the other two. Plus the wing is way bigger compared to that of an original. Regardless, yours looks pretty damn good. I am really looking forward to seeing that in action on your BGRAT track.. I think I spelled it correctly lol... I also really like your brief history at the beginning. Well done my friend.
The mechanical speed controller did not have reverse. But it does modulate speed. Every shinny line is a different speed and I believe 2 combine. So I believe it had about 12 different speeds
I’m glad you had better luck with your MCI decals. I bought a very expensive set for a monster truck build and when I receive them I was extremely disappointed because they were not new illustrations but instead a very low quality scan of an original set and, me being a graphic designer, I noticed all the dropouts in areas of the decal that are supposed to be blended into a black background but whoever did the work on those just simply erased the area altogether. I decided to draw my own and have them printed because they were complete garbage. Back to your restoration, very nice job. I would still consider that a shelf queen and I wish I would’ve bought a re-re it when they came out years ago
When I used to race my RC10, I did not use the resistor that came in the kit. I got a NOVAK electronic speed control. The NOVAK that I used did not have reverse. Having reverse at the track was not allowed. Not sure why? I also used to use a Futaba Magnum Jr. radio. The motor that I used was a Trinity pink can stock motor. It was 27 turns and was the best stock brushed motor back then for a 2 wheel drive buggy. Thoughts ?
Yep, forward only mechanical speed control. The stock mechanical speed controls were garbage. Everyone pretty much threw them away and didn't bother installing them. The RC10 I bought back in 1988 had the same issue with the range of the servo not being able to go to full throttle. After a couple days of trying to improve it, I gave up on it and bought a Novak ESC which made a world of difference. The stock motor didn't last very long though as the bushings wore out quickly. Once I sorted out putting in a better motor and gearing, it was literally twice as fast as when I first got out the box. A great car which has almost limitless potential with aftermarket upgrades and plenty of nostalgia factor. The design and looks of it are timeless! I am currently restoring an A stamp that I had my garage for the past 30 plus years. By the way, nobody ever painted the gear covers! You want to keep it clear so you can see inside of it 😉
Hi Gavin! Fanstastic results. I'm doing a similar project restoring my gold pan. What did you use (product) for the edging to get the great windows and netting to pop like that?
Wow! That looks mint! Amazing work on the body Gav it looks well done, loving that car. Will we see anymore of it apart from obviously the garden track? Also I’m doing a neo scorcher beetle build and was wondering if you could look into it, I’d love to see you do one two, the body I’m using is actually soured from kamtec, so I’m sure you will be able to get hold of one of them! Great vid Gav, keep up the good content.👍😎
Also don't drive with the wing unless you are racing. The car jumps really good. Mine used to wind up sliding on it's roof all the time. Make sure you get a tekin speed controller. Original bok shows the electronic speed controller ziptied to the rear shock mount
I have a re re that I built I have to paint the shell but it was hard to actually find the color to paint it from what I was told is it's Tamiya camel yellow, backed with orange, then silver. It was a nice kit to build.
The speed control never had reverse. It was borrowed from slot car controls of the 70's and 80's so it only had forward and brakes. When you reach full throttle, there should be a metal tab that bypasses the resistor and forces the arm to make better contact. That was actually more efficient than any electronic speed control because you had a straight circuit from battery to motor. Bolink used to offer a switch that you could bolt on to have reverse, but it was just on/off. No control of speed. Also if you can find the original wiring plug, it had a resistor to drop the voltage for running your radio to get rid of the 4 AA batteries. It truly was an out of the box race car for 1985. Even with the mechanical speed control you could easily win with it since it had many steps vs the Tamiya types that only had 3. After all, all slot cars were using that setup back then. Edit- you do have the metal tab. I just saw it later. Adjust the servo for 80% throw and make sure it is making good contact and you will like it alot.
The irony being, that I've owned every single RC 10 they brought out, including some of the weird ones.Yet I missed out on the re-release edition. Shame that. In fact I missed out on the whole re-releasing thing altogether, as I would really loved an Optima, and an Optima turbo, but there you go. I found the Optima mid custom special carbon fibre chassis and top deck the other day, who knows where the rest of it has gone. :) I also spotted to my Schumacher Cat with it's anodised red custom chassis at the IFMAR 1987 World Championships video, which is cool. As you say, this is going to cost me a lot of money. :-)
It's a shame you only have parts to the cars you owned and missed out on some re-releases. I'm sure there will be more. I bet you have some great memories and it is amazing what happened in the world of RC back then and some of us were right in the midst of it. It seemed to be a golden age.
@@KT_One I guess the carbon fibre RC10 with the cable 4wd conversion, the factory lightened gold chassis, the chain drive MIP 4wd version, fusion speed graphite RC10, amongst others that I've probably forgotten about. :-)
@@markscotchford4159 Yep, there was nothing quite like getting up in the morning for track practice, smelling the freshly mown grass and having a blast round the track to set up the car for the day. I've nearly finished rebuilding the World champ Cat XLS champ edition, it's looking really nice. :-) Having to machine some custom parts for it though.
3 minits in and sorry I can't watch. Great video but it hurts. Long story short. Because of heart failure i lost my job then 4 months later covid-19 hit, we had to move and we put everything in storage. The storage unit that we were renting got broken in to and they stole 15 of my rc vehicles along with a lot of other items, I had a A stamp with the stealth trans, OG swiper speed control, fataba electronics and box art paint job.
Looks sweet with the decals on, very retro. The wing is way too far forward, needs to be back more. The leading edge of the wing needs to be behind the rear window.
If the servo doesn't seem to have enough travel it may be installed the wrong way around, the output shaft should be closer to the high speed end of the resistor and "reaching" out to the brake end
I'm currently Resotring and building An Edinger Cadillac model. Do you know where would I be able to find the Protech body that best represents the original?
All the off white colored nylon parts in the kit can be dyed. They were made to be and I beleive its even mentioned in the manual but few ever bothered back in the day.
@@paulblack3608 That is very interesting Paul. I suppose people only wanted to drive them or they simply love the iconic look. Thanks for the reply my friend!
The original mechanical speed controller was never designed to run in reverse my original from 1985 was the same way......if you want the most throttle out of it start your servo dead center and pull the horn off and rotate a tooth at a time to your right as you're looking at the servo until you get your desired throttle amount
Sorry I was wrong about your servo set up for the speed controller but throttle adjustment from what I remember is all in the horn of the servo that being said it's been 25 years since I messed with one so just play around with it and you'll figure out the best set-up
I'm sure you've probably been asked and answered this lots of times so I apologise but have you seen the 1988 film The Dead Pool with Clint Eastwood? If you haven't you'll be thinking what's this question got to do with a Team Associated RC10? If you've seen it you'll remember. I'll just say these words.... RC car chase. RC10. :-) ;-)
What's the stick transmitter u have? Plane? Do a video PLEASE!!! Just cumin bak 2the hobby n can't get on with the steering wheel transmitter and can't seem to find a decent stick more than 50 quid!!! Unless plane!!! Do they auto return? Both sticks move 360 degrees?
If the pan is bowed down strip the pan place on flat surface with motor mount overhanging the surface strike pan with rubber mallet to straighten, reassemble And race
I hate admitting it but I was one of the idiot kids who drilled giant holes all over my RC10 chassis to make it lighter - I wish I had picks of it now but it must have looked so crappy 😂
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Seeing that Rc10 sets my mind back into the late 80s when I raced that buggy.
Back in the 80’s when I had a Grasshopper I absolutely dreamed of owning my very own RC10 gold pan, but never did. Now 35 years later I’m getting back into rc and my love affair with the RC10 is still strong. If the price is ever reasonable I’ll get one to put on the shelf next to my Tamiya Brat.
Great video. Cheers
I have the RC10 classic in my collection. It’s never seen the light of day lol.
You've inspired me to restore mine!! I've got an A-Stamp Edinger, bought in 1983, that I Raced until 1988 - with a slew of upgrades!!!
I Raced with Team Associated, Semi-Pro... so MY Buggy isn't worth anything!! 😜 I did get a few driving lessons from Jim Halsey - but that doesn't make my Car worth anything either! Just some cool memories....
Mine was fitted with a Stealth Transmission later. The COST of the original 6 Gear would be SO much, that mine will be no more than a Resto-Mod. 😉
But quite exciting to see you attempt a true type of Restoration!! If you can find a Novak Rooster I, it would at least be a period correct ESC.
..... The Ceramic inside that Mechanical Speed Controller cracks over nearly 40 Years, and is literally impossible to bring to like new condition. If it was a Competition MSC, Reverse was and still is, verboten in Racing! 😉
Frankly, NO Buggies look that good or realistic anymore.
Love my gold pans. Awesome job Gavin
Was never able to pick up an original RC 10 GOLD PAN . But I was lucky enough to pick up 3 re release a few years ago, sadly I never had enough time to assemble one. Thanks for sharing.
RCKicks love yr show im 59 yrs ols been a modelbuilder from the 70s
in 80 built rc tug boat by blue prints 300 dollar futaba radio 2 motorcycle batters
I'm watching Glavin while Washington DC falls. Made in America RC 10. 🏁
rcretro@youtube has the same subject at the same time, coincidence I think not ...🏁
It’s all kicking off I see. It’s on the UK BBC news
It didnt really fall though, they all went home at dinner time.
Nice! I'm currently restoring an A stamp RC10 right now. Still such an epic buggy, the grand daddy of all modern RWD buggies. I have the Rere Classic and the Rere Worlds. ❤
Love the Hotshot on the shelf behind you.
Nicely done Gavin!! Looks amazing, I'm also doing a resto on a Cadillac A Stamp just not going box art. Running a modern servo and a Hobby wing 1060 but keeping the stock motor for now :)
I've also got a A stamp runner. Superb to drive, you can see why it blew the competition away back when it came out.
Great car. They are quite a bit faster stock on a proper ESC. Mine is Cadillac #6010 version kit without bearings. I bought the bearing kit the same day though as well as a tekin esc. Still remember it. Never tried the mechanical controller, nobody I knew ever used it. Garbage even then. Glad you are driving it. These cars are made to run. Very robust, no real worries about wear and tear if set up proper. Good quality stuff from the past. Not barfed out of china.
In those days it really made the tamiyas look like toys at the local track though. Showing up with one of these on race day in about 1987 really made a lot of people groan because they were doomed.
Watching this made me go out in the cold and run mine a bit for fun.
Funny facts from back in the day: many owners hated the gold pan and swapped for graphite. They drilled em, chopped and butchered em to make them 'light' Also, many just cut the body off in the back at the shock tower to leave the rear open. I still have a baffed out old body with the back cut off with nothing but a tab left to fit the mount post. Imagine doing that today with how collectible these are. Who knew? Guys also used to stick subaru brat wheels on the front to replace the skinnies and make it look beefier up front. But hey we were 18 and a lot of these kits got seriously hacked in the name of good fun.
Cheers.
2 RC10 videos in one day. What a way to start the new year. Stay safe Gav
I have a classic RC 10 that hasn't seen the light of day since the 80's. I'm having it re done with modern goodies. I can't believe it's been so long since I've driven it. I'm excited to drive it again! Great video!
These are fantastic vintage RC cars and you will be surprised just how well these old RC's still drive.
Love the yellow. It turns out really well. Great job 👍
This was my first buggy with full bushings, mechanical speed control and stock motor. It was so slow lol .. I ran out and spent another $200 on bearings, Novak esc and a Jr’s Choice mod motor and was very happy with the speed
Todo un clasico ese Buggy,esa pared llena de Buggys es envidiable!
Yep it’s an icon for sure.
Put a few washers under the speed control servo to raise where it sweeps on the resistor. Your servo disk / arm should be about 1/8" of clearance over the chassis tub. At the hobby shop I worked at we used to stock extra 6714 bypass arms and we would rig them up on the brake side too to get full brakes.
I have an rc10 ds and even though they're different I'm trying to get a more recent video and not a video from 2013. This video has shown me a lot and worked for me.
Very nice Resto 😎 Would love to find one for the collection
It’s one to have in the collection for sure.
Very cool excellent vid Rckicks. Had two of those back in 1988. Wish I still had them, I should of bought a re-release.
Awesome job.
When you ran it and drove it over the low kerb I noticed how perfectly the suspension handled it. Absolutely no bounce at all. That's partly due to the weight of the ally chassis, but yes, mainly due to the excellent dampers!
Heh, yes I did pause and comment below before the vid ended.
Man that turned out great. I wish I would have kept the one from when I was a kid. Great video
Yay! Glad to see it on screen again! :P
I really miss my old RC10 Team car. Black dyed nylon, HPI 2-speed trans.
I much preferred the Stealth trans compared to the original. I remember building many originals and spending dozens of hours on lovingly filing the metal gears.
I have an all original RC10 1st Gen w/ mechanical speed control that I am getting ready to restore. I would love to get another one to upgrade with all modern electrics to run on the track!
These are getting expensive now so it's a challenge to find a good one for reasonable money unfortunately.
I no longer have my original one from the late 80's, but I do have one that I bought from some dude in the US more than 15 years ago. I paid £85 plus shipping, so approx 100 squids. Ironically it came with an illegal 75mhz radio set-up, so I had to install 27mhz in stead. I did run it round a couple of club tracks a few times and really enjoyed it! I shall pass it on to some great great niece or nephew when I die! And let#s face it, as I'm only middle aged at 66 . . .
Nice work!
@RCKicks fun fact for you I have a private plate on my van, RC10 CAR. If I remember I’ll put a pic up on the rckicks fb page
The single most influential RC car ever built. I have mine from 1987 and another model (graphite).
These things still work, handle amazing and fly.
You can do a BEC wiring with that mechanical speed control.
Im luck as I have a super clean graphite RC10 in the collection. It needs a new body but apart from that it needs nothing else to be a shelf queen
Damn fella, that bodyshell looks awesome!! Can't wait to see it round the track!!
good to see these old classics running again, loved my 90's RC10 Worlds Car (granted it was more a chassis built from spares). Keep thinking it's time to get the Schumacher Bosscat chassis i have in the loft running
Gorgeous vibrant colour. Looks the business. I always fancied an RC10, but the prices are unreal at the moment. Thumbs up.
Looks great mate ! most people left the gear cover clear so you can see whats going on in there.
We used to run with the gear cover and the wing clear. A properly working resistor speed control like that one was no joke! Mine was forward and brakes and was proportional.
Love it, the retro camel yellow and gold pan 🤩 a fantastic thing indeed. Remember racing against these with my Mardave Meter (long wheel base) which I’d put in a Reedy modified 19x2 gold dot motor in.
Well done... Absolute beauty! Drool.
Looks good, i would of painted it a lighter yellow and stick some "JCB" Stickers on 😁
I still have my Graphite Chassis RC 10 from almost 30 years ago.
Looks amazing.. such a great car.. always wanted one back in the day seeing the ads in the mags, had a later truck verison. Be great to see this on the track with updated electrics :) ace seeing it running
Interesting stuff bud.
I have to finish cleaning up mine and re-assembling it.
Congratulations to Keith,😀😀😀
I have a NIB Cadillac version bought in Japan and brought here. It has a stamp by from Yokomo (the importer) and Associated Japan (the distributor) on the side of the box where a US box has the model #. Still unbuilt and sitting in my closet.
Had the original, and have the classic. My fav.
Just picked up a championship edition version, not the originals but I get to enjoy this classic!
My buddy's one in the 80's didn't have reverse and we would make fun of him😂 ...and we had grasshoppers and hornets🤣 ...his fancy expensive car didn't even have reverse 😭 we were such idiots 😂🤣
I was thinking about this. I remember a buddy of mine having one as well,and I also remember something about it not having reverse also. Thank you for confirming that I'm not crazy,or just getting old and not remembering correctly LOL
@@williammccarthy5956 ha, for sure they didn’t reverse in the 80’s
My 1984 rc10 had the variable resistor throttle. It had braking but no reverse. Now it has a Hobbywing ESC with braking and reverse. So much better. Where can I get new wheels for it?
@@peterrenaud9639 reverse wasnt allowed in racing. plus motors had advanced timing so it was also not the best for motors to run backwards. but again no reverse on the track. and it was a racing based car.
Great job on the retro paint. Couldn't be better. Where are you sourcing parts for the vintage/classic rc10? I'm having issues with some wear parts.
My friend had great success racing these back in the day, they used to place all the nylon suspension arms and parts in Dylon dye, apparently it strengthened them as well as giving the parts slight colour, was a well known 'cheat' back then.
Yep I’ve seen some cool colours
You might be having some issues with the stickers as far as size because that is a reproduction body and I can tell you for sure that the penguin bodies are off in size. I have an original body on my 1st RC10 with reproduction stickers from MCI and they fit, even the stripes on the side of the body fit. The second body that I have on my most recent RC10 restoration was painted by Andy Jacobson and is an actual spare Protech body that was put out by AE which they no longer make. I have a 3rd painted RC10 body which is Penguin reproduction and doesn't fit like the other two. Plus the wing is way bigger compared to that of an original. Regardless, yours looks pretty damn good. I am really looking forward to seeing that in action on your BGRAT track.. I think I spelled it correctly lol... I also really like your brief history at the beginning. Well done my friend.
we used to cut the decal slightly to get it round the curve then fill the gap with a drop of white paint
The mechanical speed controller did not have reverse. But it does modulate speed. Every shinny line is a different speed and I believe 2 combine. So I believe it had about 12 different speeds
I’m glad you had better luck with your MCI decals. I bought a very expensive set for a monster truck build and when I receive them I was extremely disappointed because they were not new illustrations but instead a very low quality scan of an original set and, me being a graphic designer, I noticed all the dropouts in areas of the decal that are supposed to be blended into a black background but whoever did the work on those just simply erased the area altogether. I decided to draw my own and have them printed because they were complete garbage. Back to your restoration, very nice job. I would still consider that a shelf queen and I wish I would’ve bought a re-re it when they came out years ago
A big market for top quality repo decals. 👍🏻 If you have the skills, just saying 👍🏻
When I used to race my RC10, I did not use the resistor that came in the kit. I got a NOVAK electronic speed control. The NOVAK that I used did not have reverse. Having reverse at the track was not allowed. Not sure why? I also used to use a Futaba Magnum Jr. radio. The motor that I used was a Trinity pink can stock motor. It was 27 turns and was the best stock brushed motor back then for a 2 wheel drive buggy. Thoughts ?
Yep, forward only mechanical speed control. The stock mechanical speed controls were garbage. Everyone pretty much threw them away and didn't bother installing them. The RC10 I bought back in 1988 had the same issue with the range of the servo not being able to go to full throttle. After a couple days of trying to improve it, I gave up on it and bought a Novak ESC which made a world of difference. The stock motor didn't last very long though as the bushings wore out quickly. Once I sorted out putting in a better motor and gearing, it was literally twice as fast as when I first got out the box. A great car which has almost limitless potential with aftermarket upgrades and plenty of nostalgia factor. The design and looks of it are timeless! I am currently restoring an A stamp that I had my garage for the past 30 plus years. By the way, nobody ever painted the gear covers! You want to keep it clear so you can see inside of it 😉
Hi Gavin! Fanstastic results. I'm doing a similar project restoring my gold pan. What did you use (product) for the edging to get the great windows and netting to pop like that?
Hi Pete, It's just edging detail tape. Loads of it about online or eBay. :)
Wow! That looks mint! Amazing work on the body Gav it looks well done, loving that car. Will we see anymore of it apart from obviously the garden track? Also I’m doing a neo scorcher beetle build and was wondering if you could look into it, I’d love to see you do one two, the body I’m using is actually soured from kamtec, so I’m sure you will be able to get hold of one of them! Great vid Gav, keep up the good content.👍😎
I will take a look at it. I already have a Neo in the collection so send me some pics of your project. GavinEvans@RCKicks.com
Thanks Gav, will do. The body is on order and should turn up in the next few days.
Also don't drive with the wing unless you are racing. The car jumps really good. Mine used to wind up sliding on it's roof all the time. Make sure you get a tekin speed controller. Original bok shows the electronic speed controller ziptied to the rear shock mount
I'll have to check mine to see which stamp it is.
I have a re re that I built I have to paint the shell but it was hard to actually find the color to paint it from what I was told is it's Tamiya camel yellow, backed with orange, then silver. It was a nice kit to build.
The speed control never had reverse. It was borrowed from slot car controls of the 70's and 80's so it only had forward and brakes. When you reach full throttle, there should be a metal tab that bypasses the resistor and forces the arm to make better contact. That was actually more efficient than any electronic speed control because you had a straight circuit from battery to motor. Bolink used to offer a switch that you could bolt on to have reverse, but it was just on/off. No control of speed. Also if you can find the original wiring plug, it had a resistor to drop the voltage for running your radio to get rid of the 4 AA batteries. It truly was an out of the box race car for 1985. Even with the mechanical speed control you could easily win with it since it had many steps vs the Tamiya types that only had 3. After all, all slot cars were using that setup back then. Edit- you do have the metal tab. I just saw it later. Adjust the servo for 80% throw and make sure it is making good contact and you will like it alot.
I still have my gradpas rc10ds
The irony being, that I've owned every single RC 10 they brought out, including some of the weird ones.Yet I missed out on the re-release edition. Shame that. In fact I missed out on the whole re-releasing thing altogether, as I would really loved an Optima, and an Optima turbo, but there you go. I found the Optima mid custom special carbon fibre chassis and top deck the other day, who knows where the rest of it has gone. :) I also spotted to my Schumacher Cat with it's anodised red custom chassis at the IFMAR 1987 World Championships video, which is cool. As you say, this is going to cost me a lot of money. :-)
What were the “weird” RC10s?
It's a shame you only have parts to the cars you owned and missed out on some re-releases. I'm sure there will be more. I bet you have some great memories and it is amazing what happened in the world of RC back then and some of us were right in the midst of it. It seemed to be a golden age.
@@KT_One maybe he means the short lived ones like the TQ-10 and RC-10 Graphite.
@@KT_One I guess the carbon fibre RC10 with the cable 4wd conversion, the factory lightened gold chassis, the chain drive MIP 4wd version, fusion speed graphite RC10, amongst others that I've probably forgotten about. :-)
@@markscotchford4159 Yep, there was nothing quite like getting up in the morning for track practice, smelling the freshly mown grass and having a blast round the track to set up the car for the day. I've nearly finished rebuilding the World champ Cat XLS champ edition, it's looking really nice. :-) Having to machine some custom parts for it though.
I have one of these in storage in another state. I may have to go dust that little monster off.
The mechanical speed control only has forward and brakes.
Did you say Camel Yellow is the main base color for the buggy ?
3 minits in and sorry I can't watch. Great video but it hurts. Long story short. Because of heart failure i lost my job then 4 months later covid-19 hit, we had to move and we put everything in storage. The storage unit that we were renting got broken in to and they stole 15 of my rc vehicles along with a lot of other items, I had a A stamp with the stealth trans, OG swiper speed control, fataba electronics and box art paint job.
Looks sweet with the decals on, very retro. The wing is way too far forward, needs to be back more. The leading edge of the wing needs to be behind the rear window.
I got a B4.1 on ebay and fitted GOOL RC motor and ESC. It goes like a stabbed rat on 2S!
@rckicks where were you able to source your tires for your rebuid
If the servo doesn't seem to have enough travel it may be installed the wrong way around, the output shaft should be closer to the high speed end of the resistor and "reaching" out to the brake end
I think that could be it. I’ll check later. 👍🏻
What year you think the year was first made? I love my two that work great still. Thanks!
1984 I think.
Need to put a Novak 1 in it. It’s the only proper option ;)
I would like to get one but not that easy in the UK to find a good one
They didn't come with reverse but you could get a kit to make it have reverse
I'm currently Resotring and building An Edinger Cadillac model. Do you know where would I be able to find the Protech body that best represents the original?
Have you tried Team BLue Groove?
I eventually found a company in Britain called Penguin that I got one from. But Boki also makes them.
Do you alcohol prep the body before applying the decal
I have the one I got back in 1983
Needs a Novak Tempest ESC
Nice job. Where can I get parts.
That’s the thing right. I would try in the RC10 Facebook groups.
I'm restoring my 80s RC10. Where did you find the body?
Team Blue Groove I think it was.
Where did you find the new tires?
hello friend, where can i get the new lexan body and stickers?
MCI Racing & Team Blue Groove
Am i missing something, i always paint black last and back the whole shell in it
I don't think they had reverse mine didn't!
Can the white wheel be dyed??
All the off white colored nylon parts in the kit can be dyed. They were made to be and I beleive its even mentioned in the manual but few ever bothered back in the day.
@@paulblack3608 That is very interesting Paul. I suppose people only wanted to drive them or they simply love the iconic look. Thanks for the reply my friend!
Reverse on these was just a microswitch the wiper arm would depress. Check to see if the microswitch is bad.
The reverse switch was an aftermarket kit from a couple of companies, including Parma if I remember right.
Where is the Edinger or Cadillac stamp?
The original mechanical speed controller was never designed to run in reverse my original from 1985 was the same way......if you want the most throttle out of it start your servo dead center and pull the horn off and rotate a tooth at a time to your right as you're looking at the servo until you get your desired throttle amount
Sorry I was wrong about your servo set up for the speed controller but throttle adjustment from what I remember is all in the horn of the servo that being said it's been 25 years since I messed with one so just play around with it and you'll figure out the best set-up
I'm sure you've probably been asked and answered this lots of times so I apologise but have you seen the 1988 film The Dead Pool with Clint Eastwood? If you haven't you'll be thinking what's this question got to do with a Team Associated RC10? If you've seen it you'll remember. I'll just say these words.... RC car chase. RC10. :-) ;-)
Hi All, I’m also currently restoring a vintage RC10 but can’t get front wheels anywhere, does anybody make repo ones? Thanks
Do they have to be brand new or just runnable?
@@mrlt1 don’t have to be brand new but good condition would be nice, thanks
@@chrisstitt6234I'll check what I have lying around
What's the stick transmitter u have? Plane? Do a video PLEASE!!! Just cumin bak 2the hobby n can't get on with the steering wheel transmitter and can't seem to find a decent stick more than 50 quid!!! Unless plane!!! Do they auto return? Both sticks move 360 degrees?
Does anybody have any tips for straightening a bent gold pan chassis?
If the pan is bowed down strip the pan place on flat surface with motor mount overhanging the surface strike pan with rubber mallet to straighten, reassemble
And race
@@byronclark9188 awesome thanks
Your missing the rc10 dual sport
I'm thinking no reverse, maybe brake.🤔
I hate admitting it but I was one of the idiot kids who drilled giant holes all over my RC10 chassis to make it lighter - I wish I had picks of it now but it must have looked so crappy 😂
Lot of racers done that, even choosing that over graphite chassis
It never had reverse. Forward and brake only
Traxxas slash fanboys be like: Ew ItS nOt TRaXxAS ItS So UGly GeT SomE GOoD pArTS SUPPoRT