While this video doesn't show you how you removed the shaft from the rear of the wheel hub, it does prove that having the right tool makes every job easier! I found out tonight my daughters car needs one - after putting new KYB struts on it. hopefully that will make getting the new strut seated properly tomorrow. That's been a freaking nightmare. I over-extended the CV joint popping it apart so rather than try to reseat the 'universal' joint I'll just buy a new one since I've already got this stuff pulled apart. Appreciate your post! Helps me before i even start.
+Dskratz I've over extended one before myself after getting a new one I realized it would pop back in place and may have worked ok. But like yours it probably needed replaced anyways . The drivers on these mazda 3 clip sticks like you can't imagine , I figured this would help as I'm sure alot of people have experienced frustration trying to remove the drivers cv axle . As far as putting it back I slide it into the hub and ram it home , takes a good bit of force to seat it back as well . You probably already know this but make sure and replace the cv seal and coat it with lube or transmission fluid . Also plan on losing some tran fluid and having pan. Working on the suspension is alot of work and an impact doesn't always fit so I know the feeling . Best of luck on your project and thank you for watching .
+Brian C It sure is a pain. I remember researching on how if you rotate the clip just right it will fall out of there , no way . I tried everything and wasn't until getting that tool there I was able to pound it out. I was using both legs on a crow bar and it wouldn't budge and pounding it with other tools so if you got it out with a chisel you done pretty good . I don't know why they are all that way on these 3s but seems pretty common , guess they were afraid of them ever coming out . Thanks for checking out the video
+Brian C I agree alot of those aftermarket are garbage , I replaced one with a refurbished and instantly regretted it . The old one looked to be way better made . Pretty much have to get refurbished oem or new oem seems . There are a few decent brands but they can be pricey . When it comes to suspension front end stuff I pretty much will get the best or oem anymore. Hopefully those will last you years to come .
you were likely reading about C clips....those clips are not sprung and will fall out ....but that method is used in trans / diff cases that have removable bottoms
If the metal band holding the inner boot on is still there, even if its rusty, its sqeezing that metal end piece really tight. just cut the boot halfway through the inner one, and remove the whole shaft part so its just the small end piece hanging out of the trans. put a flathead against that metal band/zip tie looking thing so you have leverage against it and give it a few taps with a hammer and it pops right out. it dumps fluid everywhere auto or manual btw. never saw anyone else who tried this, had to come up with this on my own after the slide hammer failed me.
I watched your Passenger Side Video..... But I started on the Driver's Side First WITHOUT Watching THIS Video..... My first problem was our Kids had Our 2004 Mazda 3 Before Us, So THEY stuck non stock trims & tires which Required A LIFT Kit, THIS made the Lower Control Arm MUCH HARDER To move Downward to release the ball joint.... but I FINALLY got it. I used a Medium Craftsman Pry Bar to remove the driver's side ( guess I got lucky )...the Passenger Side I had Trouble With because the Locking Ring Was Slightly Open, I had to Push the CV onto the shaft, WHILE Pushing the c clip ring with my Second Largest Screwdriver until the Axle pushed PAST the clip, then I POPPED IT a few times in from the front side with my Midget 8# Sledge... I figure it took me Twice as long as normal, but my it's first time doing CV's and I'm 58, so I'm Pretty Happy with myself.....THANK YOU for posting, ESPECIALLY The Tightening Torque Specifications.... BTW....Rock Auto DIDN'T Include New 13mm Axle Bolts in BOTH Boxes...Only Passenger Side...I chased it and Blue Loctited It....Test Drive Resulted IN ZERO NOISE !!! THANX DUDER !!!
It seems like they are carrying a lot less loaner tools now than they used to. I know you can buy these online through places like ebay and get an entire 10 lb slide hammer kit for many other applicatiions. Now the forked cv tool is strictly just for removing the cv axles and can be bought separately. I know that a lot are extremely difficult to remove and this tool is pretty handy. Thanks for watching.
These cv axles can be tough to remove on some cars. This tool and method seems to get out the worst and this was in fact the worst I'd tackled. Another tip if you lift the car enough and get it at an angle and put it on jack stands you won't lose much if any transmission fluid. Thank you for watching
+Wally W yes it is quite common with these mazda 3's it seems. Usually with a pry bar crow bar etc I can pop most cv axles out but not on the mazda 3. It takes quite a bit of force to get it out of there so I'd definitely use the tool next time as well. I wasted quite a bit of time before finally getting the tool. Thanks for watching
How many teeth has the outer and inner parts of the part which connects to the wheel part? In my car only that which needs to be replaced but noone can help me to figure out which part should I order. Would be great to know before taking that out such I could avoid to do this 2 times. I found quite a few variations 36-22, 28-22, 28-23, 28-24, 28-26 (First is the outer second is the inner value of onlz the first part of the axle)
I do not know the numbet of splines but the best advice I can give is to determine if you have the 4sp or 5 spd. And of course manual or auto will be a variance. I usually order mine through ebay and have never had an issue using their compatibility chart . Once you know the transmission they should be able to tell you the correct one. Another thing that may be different is if you have either the 13mm bolt or axle nut holding the cv to hub. Thats easy enough to check by removing the wheel . Hope this helps and thank you for watching.
I'm swapping a fusion 2.5l into my Mazda3. After taking the axles out people say to put a coat hanger into the axle holes on the trans to keep it from spinning. Looking into the axle hole from the passenger side i don't understand how a coat hanger will keep it from spinning.
Carefully hold the cv axle and take a heavy rubber mallet shot filled preferably and hit the end or use a bar or something to tap it back into place. They say to make sure the c clip faces up for some reason. With a few good taps it should go. I prefer the heavy shot filled mallet so there's no worries of damage but I've used a bar placed on the end and a heavy hammer also just as to not directly hit the cv axle . It's a tight fit but once you get that clip started its no problem. Another thing you can do is slide it into the bearing spindle and hit the cv on the end once it's sitting in the spindle knuckle. Hope this helps out and thank you for watching
OMG im here pulling my hair out trying to get this thing back in getting it out wasnt a problem but ive been beggin GOD to give me some help for the past 2 hours im goin crazy I fucking feel like crying im not gonna lie LOL AHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
When I couldn't get one in I discovered it was made wrong. The splines on either side of the retainer c clip didn't line up, making it impossible to insert past the c clip into the transaxle. The spline end was all one piece, no turning it to line up the splines.
Sometimes the spline has 2 groves in it ... it wont go on unless these are aligned ... slowly tiwst it by hand till the groove is lined up in the axle and it should just slide in.
Yes I got both parts they come separate as loan a tools , I believe it's a 10 lb slide . In this case it definitely made the job easier . Thanks for watching
I have the 2002 Mazda Millenia S that has the 2.3 l turbocharged engine and I bought that tool that you're showing there the little C shape tool to put on my slide hammer then I bought a threaded rod to extend my slide hammer and a coupling threader to join the threaded rod to the end of my slide Hammer which is 3/8 in and my problem I ran into is I can't fit that tool there's not enough room between the transmission casing and the CV cup to get that tool in there I can barely fit a screwdriver or a flat bar like a carpenter would use a flat bar I can't even slide one of those behind there so what do you suggest in that case any help would be greatly appreciated
Here is a video I made quite a few years back. The 95 through 02 should be the same. I have not watched this recently . Thanks for the feedback. ruclips.net/video/8zA9vNabmWQ/видео.html
Well I never could get that tool to work but C shape tool it was too thick to fit behind the CV axle in between the transmission casing so what I did was I took a ratcheting strap and I just so happened to be parked almost right in line with a big tree so I took the ratcheting strap went over the top of the CV axle and kind of wiggled it till it slid down in between the axle and the transmission casing then I hooked it back over itself on that end and pulled it taut wrapped a chain around the big tree and hook the other end of the ratcheting strap to that then I started ratcheting and it was a pretty good size ratchet strap as far as the mechanism goes the strap was only maybe three quarters to an inch one of the smaller ones but it looked like a pretty beefy ratcheting mechanism but I started ratcheting it got real tight and the next thing I know the ratcheting mechanism just exploded into pieces so I took that off was frustrated got my tools up sat on it for a day giving myself a break from it and I went back out there and what I was going to do was just put a boot on the end of it clean up the bearings because it was just a boot bad it hadn't had a chance to wear the bearings out in that CV joint so I was checking the bearings so I slid that spindle and then come off back on to the axle to start turning it to see if I could feel any bumping and grinding to make sure it wasn't damaged and when I went to pull it back off so I could put the CV boot on the axle just fell out of the transmission so ratcheting out actually Jarred it loose I just had to give it another tug thought that might be helpful in case somebody's thinking about doing this and always be nice to park next to a big beefy tree that's in line with your front end that you're going to decide you're going to be working on so that you can use the tree as an anchor point or you know you could even use the back of a truck if you don't have a tree lined up with it like a tow ball or something like that just something about the same height and in line with the axle hope this is helpful if anyone has any questions just drop me a line I'll be happy to help give you the information you might need something else I ran into on the Mazda Milly s supercharged 2002 model you can't just swing the knuckle out of the way you have to take the sway bar loose the lower strut arm has to come off loose in order to get the axle out of there because that space is too small for the axle head that goes into the transmission to fit between the sway bar and the lower strut arm there's just not enough room it's like almost a half inch to a quarter inch too small and there's no way around it so everything has to come apart regardless of what somebody tells you you just take this loose and that loose and swing it out of the way that's bull you have to take it all apart which was easy for me it's just a couple more bolts but it was just surprising because everyone was saying no you don't have to do all that well yes you do I found out the hard way but it only took me an hour to get it back together once I got it out so let me know if I can help anybody I'd be grateful to lend any assistance as far as verbal communication and walking you through it or anything drop me a line
I noticed the part of the shaft that goes jntot he transmission clunks when putting it in gear it can be seen visibly moving and makes a loud knock when I put it into gear cpuld this b the cv axle or the trans?
Usually you get a clicking popping noise turning slow speeds parking lot etc. If the sound is when putting it into drive or reverse it is transmission related. Thanks for watching.
You can just put some clean tran fluid on the cv axle seal . If you do not lose much fluid you won't have to add any. If its manual theres a plug you pump the fluid into whereas the auto just gets filled through the dip stick . I usually just catch it in a pan and pour back the same amount and check it from there. Thanks for watching.
Usually I use an 1/2 extension and a hammer to knock it loose , after some wd 40 has soaked. However some of those really seize and you might have to use a puller type setup . I recall on a Dakota 4x4 I had that was siezed and remember beating that thing out with a 10 lb sledge . Hope this helps and thanks for watching
You can use something metal as long as you don't hit the cv directly , the vibration is sometimes a help . Last resort I'd remove the whole knuckle , and get it out where I could get ahold of it better. I have heard of some being so bad they had to take it to a machine shop and use a mega press to get it out . Depending on the cost of that it might be easier get one at the salvage yard. Luckily I haven't run into any that bad . But I know anytime I've got them out I put them back with grease . Hope you get it and best of luck.
s33therfan friend has a 3 ton 3 jaw puller i used that’s hydraulic now it did’t work so now I went back and got his 12 ton 3 jaw hydraulic puller. I live in Louisiana and far from salt water so it kinda blows my mind that there this hard to remove. Although I did work close to salt water for a couple years but still my car shows no signs of corrosion from salt.
Yeah was the same with my Dakota , no where near salt water but it was in alot of water and mud . So I was surprised at it , I know I worked myself about to death beating it out of there . I guess it's common up north but you don't expect it down south .
Caefullly hold it with one hand straight ish and hit it with a heavy shot filled rubber mallet on the end that goes in the spindle bearing of the cv axle. If you don't have a rubber mallet try putting something on the end of the cv if you are going to hit it with a steel sledge. Few hits that clip will go and from there it goes in easy . Face the clip opening at 12 o'clock or straight up . Make sure youve installed a new cv axle seal and lubed it with transmission fluid hope this helps and Thanks for watching
Dealing with the same issue today, never had this much trouble removing an axle lol. Thanks for posting this!
I will agree , mazda 3's are one of the worst to remove I have ever come across to date. Thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching.
How many splines does the inner and outer CV joint for this car have?
Thank you for sharing the part numbers and source, our local twilight zone told me they had no such tool, gave them the part number and there it was
Thats good to hear and thank you for the great feedback. Thanks for watching
While this video doesn't show you how you removed the shaft from the rear of the wheel hub, it does prove that having the right tool makes every job easier! I found out tonight my daughters car needs one - after putting new KYB struts on it. hopefully that will make getting the new strut seated properly tomorrow. That's been a freaking nightmare. I over-extended the CV joint popping it apart so rather than try to reseat the 'universal' joint I'll just buy a new one since I've already got this stuff pulled apart. Appreciate your post! Helps me before i even start.
+Dskratz I've over extended one before myself after getting a new one I realized it would pop back in place and may have worked ok. But like yours it probably needed replaced anyways . The drivers on these mazda 3 clip sticks like you can't imagine , I figured this would help as I'm sure alot of people have experienced frustration trying to remove the drivers cv axle . As far as putting it back I slide it into the hub and ram it home , takes a good bit of force to seat it back as well . You probably already know this but make sure and replace the cv seal and coat it with lube or transmission fluid . Also plan on losing some tran fluid and having pan. Working on the suspension is alot of work and an impact doesn't always fit so I know the feeling . Best of luck on your project and thank you for watching .
+Brian C It sure is a pain. I remember researching on how if you rotate the clip just right it will fall out of there , no way . I tried everything and wasn't until getting that tool there I was able to pound it out. I was using both legs on a crow bar and it wouldn't budge and pounding it with other tools so if you got it out with a chisel you done pretty good . I don't know why they are all that way on these 3s but seems pretty common , guess they were afraid of them ever coming out . Thanks for checking out the video
+Brian C I agree alot of those aftermarket are garbage , I replaced one with a refurbished and instantly regretted it . The old one looked to be way better made . Pretty much have to get refurbished oem or new oem seems . There are a few decent brands but they can be pricey . When it comes to suspension front end stuff I pretty much will get the best or oem anymore. Hopefully those will last you years to come .
you were likely reading about C clips....those clips are not sprung and will fall out ....but that method is used in trans / diff cases that have removable bottoms
If the metal band holding the inner boot on is still there, even if its rusty, its sqeezing that metal end piece really tight. just cut the boot halfway through the inner one, and remove the whole shaft part so its just the small end piece hanging out of the trans. put a flathead against that metal band/zip tie looking thing so you have leverage against it and give it a few taps with a hammer and it pops right out. it dumps fluid everywhere auto or manual btw. never saw anyone else who tried this, had to come up with this on my own after the slide hammer failed me.
thank you for sharing , it is much appreciated.
I tried this and it just knocked the boot off - I ended up using the slide hammer and getting that to work.
I watched your Passenger Side Video..... But I started on the Driver's Side First WITHOUT Watching THIS Video..... My first problem was our Kids had Our 2004 Mazda 3 Before Us, So THEY stuck non stock trims & tires which Required A LIFT Kit, THIS made the Lower Control Arm MUCH HARDER To move Downward to release the ball joint.... but I FINALLY got it.
I used a Medium Craftsman Pry Bar to remove the driver's side ( guess I got lucky )...the Passenger Side I had Trouble With because the Locking Ring Was Slightly Open, I had to Push the CV onto the shaft, WHILE Pushing the c clip ring with my Second Largest Screwdriver until the Axle pushed PAST the clip, then I POPPED IT a few times in from the front side with my Midget 8# Sledge... I figure it took me Twice as long as normal, but my it's first time doing CV's and I'm 58, so I'm Pretty Happy with myself.....THANK YOU for posting, ESPECIALLY The Tightening Torque Specifications.... BTW....Rock Auto DIDN'T Include New 13mm Axle Bolts in BOTH Boxes...Only Passenger Side...I chased it and Blue Loctited It....Test Drive Resulted IN ZERO NOISE !!!
THANX DUDER !!!
Thank you for the terrific feedback and thanks for watching.
Thank you So much and for sharing, what a pain in the rear end, autozone also said didn’t have it...THANKS!!!!!
It seems like they are carrying a lot less loaner tools now than they used to. I know you can buy these online through places like ebay and get an entire 10 lb slide hammer kit for many other applicatiions. Now the forked cv tool is strictly just for removing the cv axles and can be bought separately. I know that a lot are extremely difficult to remove and this tool is pretty handy. Thanks for watching.
Shoudl be a much better design especially to make the service easier.
I wish I could hire you to do this to my 06😣 this looks like a pain in the ass
These cv axles can be tough to remove on some cars. This tool and method seems to get out the worst and this was in fact the worst I'd tackled. Another tip if you lift the car enough and get it at an angle and put it on jack stands you won't lose much if any transmission fluid. Thank you for watching
Have some problem. Thanks for that tip!
+Wally W yes it is quite common with these mazda 3's it seems. Usually with a pry bar crow bar etc I can pop most cv axles out but not on the mazda 3. It takes quite a bit of force to get it out of there so I'd definitely use the tool next time as well. I wasted quite a bit of time before finally getting the tool. Thanks for watching
How many teeth has the outer and inner parts of the part which connects to the wheel part? In my car only that which needs to be replaced but noone can help me to figure out which part should I order. Would be great to know before taking that out such I could avoid to do this 2 times. I found quite a few variations 36-22, 28-22, 28-23, 28-24, 28-26 (First is the outer second is the inner value of onlz the first part of the axle)
I do not know the numbet of splines but the best advice I can give is to determine if you have the 4sp or 5 spd. And of course manual or auto will be a variance. I usually order mine through ebay and have never had an issue using their compatibility chart . Once you know the transmission they should be able to tell you the correct one. Another thing that may be different is if you have either the 13mm bolt or axle nut holding the cv to hub. Thats easy enough to check by removing the wheel . Hope this helps and thank you for watching.
I'm swapping a fusion 2.5l into my Mazda3. After taking the axles out people say to put a coat hanger into the axle holes on the trans to keep it from spinning. Looking into the axle hole from the passenger side i don't understand how a coat hanger will keep it from spinning.
I do not have any knowledge on doing this , all I can say is that I have never used anything to hold those in place. Thanks for the feedback.
How do you install the CV axle back in? I'm struggling to get it back in.
Carefully hold the cv axle and take a heavy rubber mallet shot filled preferably and hit the end or use a bar or something to tap it back into place. They say to make sure the c clip faces up for some reason. With a few good taps it should go. I prefer the heavy shot filled mallet so there's no worries of damage but I've used a bar placed on the end and a heavy hammer also just as to not directly hit the cv axle . It's a tight fit but once you get that clip started its no problem. Another thing you can do is slide it into the bearing spindle and hit the cv on the end once it's sitting in the spindle knuckle. Hope this helps out and thank you for watching
OMG im here pulling my hair out trying to get this thing back in getting it out wasnt a problem but ive been beggin GOD to give me some help for the past 2 hours im goin crazy I fucking feel like crying im not gonna lie LOL AHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
When I couldn't get one in I discovered it was made wrong. The splines on either side of the retainer c clip didn't line up, making it impossible to insert past the c clip into the transaxle. The spline end was all one piece, no turning it to line up the splines.
Make sure ring clip split is at top or bottom . Put a good amount of clean grease on it . Give a good push
Sometimes the spline has 2 groves in it ... it wont go on unless these are aligned ... slowly tiwst it by hand till the groove is lined up in the axle and it should just slide in.
Did You Rent The Slide Hammer from AutoZone too? Or been had the Slide Hammer??
Yes I got both parts they come separate as loan a tools , I believe it's a 10 lb slide . In this case it definitely made the job easier . Thanks for watching
"Or been had the slide hammer?" U black?
I have the 2002 Mazda Millenia S that has the 2.3 l turbocharged engine and I bought that tool that you're showing there the little C shape tool to put on my slide hammer then I bought a threaded rod to extend my slide hammer and a coupling threader to join the threaded rod to the end of my slide Hammer which is 3/8 in and my problem I ran into is I can't fit that tool there's not enough room between the transmission casing and the CV cup to get that tool in there I can barely fit a screwdriver or a flat bar like a carpenter would use a flat bar I can't even slide one of those behind there so what do you suggest in that case any help would be greatly appreciated
Here is a video I made quite a few years back. The 95 through 02 should be the same. I have not watched this recently . Thanks for the feedback.
ruclips.net/video/8zA9vNabmWQ/видео.html
Well I never could get that tool to work but C shape tool it was too thick to fit behind the CV axle in between the transmission casing so what I did was I took a ratcheting strap and I just so happened to be parked almost right in line with a big tree so I took the ratcheting strap went over the top of the CV axle and kind of wiggled it till it slid down in between the axle and the transmission casing then I hooked it back over itself on that end and pulled it taut wrapped a chain around the big tree and hook the other end of the ratcheting strap to that then I started ratcheting and it was a pretty good size ratchet strap as far as the mechanism goes the strap was only maybe three quarters to an inch one of the smaller ones but it looked like a pretty beefy ratcheting mechanism but I started ratcheting it got real tight and the next thing I know the ratcheting mechanism just exploded into pieces so I took that off was frustrated got my tools up sat on it for a day giving myself a break from it and I went back out there and what I was going to do was just put a boot on the end of it clean up the bearings because it was just a boot bad it hadn't had a chance to wear the bearings out in that CV joint so I was checking the bearings so I slid that spindle and then come off back on to the axle to start turning it to see if I could feel any bumping and grinding to make sure it wasn't damaged and when I went to pull it back off so I could put the CV boot on the axle just fell out of the transmission so ratcheting out actually Jarred it loose I just had to give it another tug thought that might be helpful in case somebody's thinking about doing this and always be nice to park next to a big beefy tree that's in line with your front end that you're going to decide you're going to be working on so that you can use the tree as an anchor point or you know you could even use the back of a truck if you don't have a tree lined up with it like a tow ball or something like that just something about the same height and in line with the axle hope this is helpful if anyone has any questions just drop me a line I'll be happy to help give you the information you might need something else I ran into on the Mazda Milly s supercharged 2002 model you can't just swing the knuckle out of the way you have to take the sway bar loose the lower strut arm has to come off loose in order to get the axle out of there because that space is too small for the axle head that goes into the transmission to fit between the sway bar and the lower strut arm there's just not enough room it's like almost a half inch to a quarter inch too small and there's no way around it so everything has to come apart regardless of what somebody tells you you just take this loose and that loose and swing it out of the way that's bull you have to take it all apart which was easy for me it's just a couple more bolts but it was just surprising because everyone was saying no you don't have to do all that well yes you do I found out the hard way but it only took me an hour to get it back together once I got it out so let me know if I can help anybody I'd be grateful to lend any assistance as far as verbal communication and walking you through it or anything drop me a line
If you would have undid the strut, which would take 20mins the rod would pop out with ease.
How to stipe from bracket
while removing the intermediate shaft does it leak oil? transmission oil?
Yes. Just measure up what dtains out and replace that amount. Thanks for watching.
I noticed the part of the shaft that goes jntot he transmission clunks when putting it in gear it can be seen visibly moving and makes a loud knock when I put it into gear cpuld this b the cv axle or the trans?
Usually you get a clicking popping noise turning slow speeds parking lot etc. If the sound is when putting it into drive or reverse it is transmission related. Thanks for watching.
There's a transmission mount or torque strut Mine was bad and would make a pop when putting it in gear. Worth a check anyways.
Is there an oil I put in before the CV Axel
You can just put some clean tran fluid on the cv axle seal . If you do not lose much fluid you won't have to add any. If its manual theres a plug you pump the fluid into whereas the auto just gets filled through the dip stick . I usually just catch it in a pan and pour back the same amount and check it from there. Thanks for watching.
Just did this yesterday
Hope the video was able to help you out , thanks
Problem I’m having is to release it from the dalwheel bearing
Usually I use an 1/2 extension and a hammer to knock it loose , after some wd 40 has soaked. However some of those really seize and you might have to use a puller type setup . I recall on a Dakota 4x4 I had that was siezed and remember beating that thing out with a 10 lb sledge . Hope this helps and thanks for watching
s33therfan currently using a 12 pound mall and a 2” hard wood dowel with success and using wd 40 penetrating oil and still no go
You can use something metal as long as you don't hit the cv directly , the vibration is sometimes a help . Last resort I'd remove the whole knuckle , and get it out where I could get ahold of it better. I have heard of some being so bad they had to take it to a machine shop and use a mega press to get it out . Depending on the cost of that it might be easier get one at the salvage yard. Luckily I haven't run into any that bad . But I know anytime I've got them out I put them back with grease . Hope you get it and best of luck.
s33therfan friend has a 3 ton 3 jaw puller i used that’s hydraulic now it did’t work so now I went back and got his 12 ton 3 jaw hydraulic puller. I live in Louisiana and far from salt water so it kinda blows my mind that there this hard to remove. Although I did work close to salt water for a couple years but still my car shows no signs of corrosion from salt.
Yeah was the same with my Dakota , no where near salt water but it was in alot of water and mud . So I was surprised at it , I know I worked myself about to death beating it out of there . I guess it's common up north but you don't expect it down south .
Cannot put it back in
Caefullly hold it with one hand straight ish and hit it with a heavy shot filled rubber mallet on the end that goes in the spindle bearing of the cv axle. If you don't have a rubber mallet try putting something on the end of the cv if you are going to hit it with a steel sledge. Few hits that clip will go and from there it goes in easy . Face the clip opening at 12 o'clock or straight up . Make sure youve installed a new cv axle seal and lubed it with transmission fluid hope this helps and Thanks for watching
s33therfan I’ve already tried that but no luck, I’ll end up calling up a mechanic to help me out