I have a 2008 Mazda 3 that I'm planning on replacing the front struts on. After seeing your video on the front struts I watched this one because I know that the CV Axle can slip out while dropping the knuckle. I've been terrified about replacing my struts since I heard about that but watching you swap this axle out was amazing. If re-seating the female part of the axle back in is all I have to worry about then I'm golden. Thank you for this video and the other repair videos you've done. This has really reassured me about doing my own repairs.
Thank you very much for the kind words I really appreciate it. I'm glad you found my videos well put together and helpful. I appreciate your support and I thank you for watching .
The axle bolt is a one time use bolt and must be replaced every time. This is because the bolt actually stretches'. Torque is 23.3-28.3 ft. lbs, then go and additional 85 to 95 degrees from that point.
I believe in this video I separated the cv axle at the joint shaft . That is probably the most difficult as it takes some good hits . They do have a loaner tool at auto zone with a 10 lb slide and a tool that's like a c shape that fits over the back side of the cv . Another option which I'm actually more partial to is removing the 2 or 3 bolts holding the bracket and entire cv and extension piece . When jacked up and supported you actually lose very little transmission fluid and it makes separation easier out on a bench . But ultimately it's whatever is easiest for you and always safety safety first . When knocking the new cv axle on all I ever use is a 5 lb shot filled rubber mallet takes several hits but it will go . Anyways even if it's difficult you can still say you did yourself there's some that can't seem to get past that . I've made lots of mistakes and still do and it's really the only way to learn . Best of luck on your project and thanks for the kind words and for watching .
@@s33therfan I have the same car ,180k ,my engine is 1.6 diesel(109 hp) I don't have any problem with cv axles,the car is verry ok. The only components i have change in 11 years was:2 ball joints,2 bushes,2 shock absorbers and sway bar links Best regards from Romania.
So the pin opening has to be faceing up correct? im going to use grease to hold the lock pin up so it wont move hen installeing the passenger side axel.
Great video homie that part with the socket extension to get the new cv axel in saved me over 60$ took me about a hour to remove old one and install new (2004 Mazda 3s) 🙏🙏🙏
Hi, great job! Do you think that rented removal tool you used on the driver's side in the other video would have been useful instead of hammering? I'm looking to build such a tool in the prospect of this job. Thanks!
So you only needed to remove the ball joint only? So many videos shows removing ball joint, tie rod, end link, caliper, etc. If it is just ball joint, then this might not be as hard as I initially thought. Would this be any different on a 2008 mazda 3i?
Hi! @3'51'', are you positive that you would loose transmission fluid if removing the whole ensemble, including the joint shaft? I am looking in the service manual, it says nothing about the fluid. Thanks!
Wow. Thank you for posting this. The driver side CV joint on my 2012 Mazda 3 is clicking badly. I'm considering trying to replace it myself. This is less scary than I thought.
@@s33therfan hi would you happen to know a good place to find the axle seal for the manual version of this car or if seals the same for both ? Local part stores computers shoe it doesn't exist and I got a seeping one .
@@dakkadakka9189 ebay is usually my go to place for hard to find parts , if I cannot find it there I am not finding it anywhere. Look at this on eBay www.ebay.com/itm/312993394744 Here is what I found Im thinking the passenger and driver are the same as it does not differentiate . You may want to plug your year into the compatibility just to make sure but they should be the same across many years . Hope this helps and thanks for watching
@@s33therfan thanks I've really looked into it as I went to Napa and my location they don't hire people who are clueless unlike others but there system was of no help in determining, given only one was listed im kind of thinking auto and manual use same seals as only one seal came up but it was labeled automatic transaxle seal
Hello Am from south Africa. I would like to ask if there's any online stores you may refer me to get that half shaft of both inner and outer cv joint as one piece for my mazda3 1.6 2006 (Z6)
@@s33therfan logically i would think the smaller bolt wouldnt be as safe as your traditional 30-33mm axle bolt. Currently rebuilding the entire front end in my 06 mazda 3, along with the axles.
The dealership might be able to get one. Otherwise get a grade 8 bolt same thread and length as old one. Tractor supply seems to have a decent selection. Hope this helps.
Regarding the extension shaft that goes from the transmission to the bearing and inner joint, does that extension shaft has a spring clip on where it goes into the transmission (like the Left hand side cv shaft has) ? Thanks for the video. (when ever I know theres a spring clip holding the shafts in I anticipate issues getting the things out.) Maybe I need to eat more meat.
@@s33therfan dang. well, I got the right hand side cv axle off the extension shaft bearing and Im glad about that. I made a 4 foot long bash bar and bolted that to the inner universal joint cup and hit it with a very solid wack and it came out. doing it under the car - I cant apply enough force. Next time it goes to a mechanic. still thanks for your guide, it gave confidence.
I don't understand something - You mentioned the bracket and a clip ~3:59. Do we need to take the bracket off? It doesn't look like it was taken off in your video. So am I right to think all we have to do is hammer the male end/right of the bracket out?
That is correct you hammer off the male end . Make sure and clean it well and grease it good before reinstalling. I have had situations where that joint shaft could not be removed easily so I removed the bracket and all. This just gives you the room you need to really force it apart. The only down side is losing transmission fluid and having to replace it. Thank you for watching.
What issue did you have after replacing the strut that made you replace the axle? I’m having an issue as well after replacing my strut assembly and was wondering if it is the same thing you were experiencing. My car is making loud vibration sounds when I accelerate and especially when I turn right and accelerate. It’s more prominent when the car has been parked cold overnight.
The cv axle was worn and the added stress during the strut removal finished it off. Basically it overextended during strut replacement and I didn't know until it was too late . A lot of caution is needed when moving the old cv axle around , now if you pop one out you can put it back in but sometimes this requires removal of the boot . Now cv axle tend to make more of a popping sound , a lot of time bearings will cause more vibration or growling sounds along with motor mounts . One way to take the guess work out may be to get it up on jack stands or blocks safely and see if you can rotate it and isolate where the sound is coming from exactly . But I will also say it is very common to fix one thing just to reveal another weak point. Hope you find this helpful and I thank you for watching
Another thing I would add is replacing the struts will often time throw the alignment out and cause the type of vibrations you're describing as well . Pretty much any disturbance replacing the front suspension parts etc will knock out the alignment so you may start there with an alignment . Now if you know you're going to be replacing other parts first you'd definitely want to wait on it because it would need realigned . Thanks again
M T were u ever able to figure out what the issue was? I got a loud grinding sound sort of thing when I turn right also and wondering if u changed the axel or bearing
I've got several videos on these cv axles so I'm not sure if I showed the separation point from the joint shaft. In other words you'll pull out the whole unit the long section but sperate the shaft from the cv axle that actually goes into the trans on that pass side. Big mallet makes easy work of that .I've got a video on a Mazda 6 that shows this I know. But any parts store should have these cv in stock the only thing they should need is engine size year , and whether or not yours requires the 13mm bolt or has the actual axle nut like most 32mm I believe . But if for some reason they don't you can get on ebay and plug your information in to the compatibility chart and it will give you the exact part. You can also msg them with your information and they can double check . Hope this helps thanks for watching
Thank you for the feedback I appreciate it. Hope the video was a help and makes sense of the cv axle. The job really isn't that difficult other than a little crawling under the car and of course taking all the safety precautions. Thanks again for watching and I appreciate your support to my channel .
When you took out the cv axle do you need that little black part in the middle because I ordered some parts and it doesnt come with it.? Do you know the name of that little part by chance?
Its not necessary only the factory cv axles have those that ive seen. None of the aftermarket will have the rubber piece . I believe its merely a precaution device to prevent rubbing in case of heavy impact over some rough bumps . Ive never noticed any problems not having it . Thanks for watching
What were the symptoms I got a friend and I’m looking at her car and it sounds like a flat tire going down the road and there is about two inch play when I rotate front to back in rotation
Could be a bad wheel bearing with that much slack , or something loose. The cv axle would pop when turning or possibly wobble at higher speeds. Thanks for the feedback.
@@s33therfan I’m going to jack her car up tomorrow and see if there is vibration in the coil! Changed out cv axle and lower control arm. Thinking after vibration check of taking hub assembly off and have wheel bearing replaced
Be careful not to over extend the cv joint when putting it back in place. Sometimes it just takes getting the ball joint at the right angle to slip back. A pry bar in the pinch joint helps sometimes. Make sure the cv axle is seated fully into the hub also. I use a lot of pb blaster white lithium grease, it works great ; makes going together easier as well as getting things apart next time. Best of luck and thanks for watching.
I'm having issues getting the new axel seated on when I tried the extender and rubber mallet the end would just start to pop out and not actually seat where the pin is. Am I doing something wrong? Or is there another way?
Those clips are stubborn but if the mallet does not work just use the cv axle itself while using a jack hammer type motion. Make sure to clean thoroughly and grease the both male and female ends generously. Best of luck and thank you for watching.
I need to replace the inner axle in my 2007 2.0 manual. So you say there is a chance that I will loose some transmission fluid when I pull out the inner axle? Or if the car will be jacked up it won't go through that hole?
If it is jacked up at more of an angle then less usually spills out . And if you have another ready to go then you can usually get it back in quick enough that very little is lost. If it did need refilled there is a 23mm (fill plug ) I believe on the part of the tran facing the front of the car. With the car perfectly level it will barely drizzle out when full. Thank you for watching.
Is an alignment required after this job? Also, do you know if it’s an identical job on a Mazda 6? I have a 2012 that I need to perform the same CV Axle job on.
Technically it could get out of alignment but I never have aligned one from removing cv axles. Most of the time I won't unless I am replacing tie rods or some major front end work , or if it feels like it needs it from walking. I have not tackled a mazda 6 that new but if they are like the older ones the knuckle is the hardest part . That and the cv axles seizing needing alot of spray lubricant. Other than that the cv axle itself comes out the same. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Still goin 6 hours later. Used a ball joint separator and got it to pop down to where the top of the ball joint is flush with the top of the knuckle. It was a pretty violent movement. Can't get it to move from there. Can't get it to go back in place either if I wanted to give in, put it all back, and drive it to a mechanic.
Sometimes they can be pretty stubborn. I have had to soak them with penetrating fluid and use a 10 lb sledge to get them to budge. The pinch point makes it difficult i have had to pry that open slightly . I will say these control arms are one of the more difficult to remove. I use a big crow bar too . Just make sure its aligned good and hammer it back into place . The next time you have to work on it things should go easier for you once you have done it once. Hope this helps and thank you for watching.
@@s33therfan I got it! Ended up buying a chisel and cutting the tip off so I could wedge the pinch point open. Once I got that in there I was able to pry it out with ease.
I have the 13mm axle nut style axle will the 32mm nut style axle work as a replacement, I’m having trouble finding a 13mm style front axle, but can find ones with the 32mm no problem
You know I've got to tell you that's a very good question. I don't even know why they use one vs the other , because I've seen either or on automatic or manual . I've always used ebay and have no trouble finding them but I'd suggest getting one from wherever you're getting it and doing a side by side comparison . If the length same and splines same then I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work . To tell you the truth I don't even see how the 13mm bolt was ever a good idea. You know I'm just guessing here but I'm wondering if it doesn't have something to do with the wheels and the slight cv protrusion . But anyways if you do a comparison and it's not a match there shouldn't be any issue returning or just compare it right there in store. I'm betting they're the same with the exception of one protruding slightly and the other inset . If you figure it out before me definitely keep me posted . I'm curious now and I'm going to have to check it out next chance I get . Thanks for watching
I have this clunk in the front end 09 mazda 3, the sound happens over small bumps or big going fast or slow. i got under the car and the passenger side cv axel as small movement side to side but not up or down. Next without the car running if you oscillate the steering wheel there is a knock from side to side from the rack and pinion. How much side to side movement in either part is normal?
It sounds like the tie rods may need replaced , inner and outer. I would start there and see if it improves. It could be the entire rack needs replaced , and I have had that be the case. A lot of parts can cause clunk , from stabilzer bushings , to stabilizer links, and on from there. The stabilizer links and bushings would be the cheaper place to start. I had a mazda 6 that every suspension part and piece was worn out and the noises persisted until all was replaced. Thanks for the feedback.
The removal is close to the same . 2008 uses the axle nut and length and splines are different i believe. But it separates the same from the joint shaft . Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
I believe it was either o'reillys or autozone ; I know it was around 50 dollars. It worked perfectly too. Best of luck on yours and thank you for watching.
@@s33therfan that whole thing was only $50!? Serious? I would have though all that machined metal would be at least $300. Is $50 for all those parts, boots, and other sections on it?
I just checked and autozone has them for around 75 , but that includes boots and everything. Sometimes they sell the entire joint shaft and all but I'm not seeing that on this year. Thanks again
Thank you for the feedback , hope the video helps you out . I always like to cover something that's seemingly simple yet to someone that hasn't removed this cv axle could be puzzling. I know the first time I wasn't sure about if the whole unit needed replaced myself . Definitely makes it easier knowing what you have to do upfront . Thanks again for the like and for watching
Man, A for effort but overall the headcam is chaos. And you don't show quite a bit... Skipping to finished product misses a lot of the final problems. I can't relieve stress of the components to just easily swing everything around and magically make the ball joint line up. Its like holding an anvil in each hand to me.
I hate that 13 mm axle bolt. I bloody hate it. it makes it impossible to use a gear puller on a stuck rotor without pushing your entire CV axle out of the hub
I never understood the design myself , just doesn't seem sturdy enough . I know some they used the axle nut some they used the 13mm bolt . Thanks for the feedback
I have a 2008 Mazda 3 that I'm planning on replacing the front struts on. After seeing your video on the front struts I watched this one because I know that the CV Axle can slip out while dropping the knuckle. I've been terrified about replacing my struts since I heard about that but watching you swap this axle out was amazing. If re-seating the female part of the axle back in is all I have to worry about then I'm golden. Thank you for this video and the other repair videos you've done. This has really reassured me about doing my own repairs.
Thank you very much for the kind words I really appreciate it. I'm glad you found my videos well put together and helpful. I appreciate your support and I thank you for watching .
The axle bolt is a one time use bolt and must be replaced every time. This is because the bolt actually stretches'. Torque is 23.3-28.3 ft. lbs, then go and additional 85 to 95 degrees from that point.
Thanks for another great video! You've saved me thousands in repairs with your tutorials!
Thank you for the great feedback . I am glad the videos helped and great job doing this . Thanks for watching
Thank you for posting! Was totally clueless on how to, after watching your video, I have more confidence to replace mine today
I believe in this video I separated the cv axle at the joint shaft . That is probably the most difficult as it takes some good hits . They do have a loaner tool at auto zone with a 10 lb slide and a tool that's like a c shape that fits over the back side of the cv . Another option which I'm actually more partial to is removing the 2 or 3 bolts holding the bracket and entire cv and extension piece . When jacked up and supported you actually lose very little transmission fluid and it makes separation easier out on a bench . But ultimately it's whatever is easiest for you and always safety safety first . When knocking the new cv axle on all I ever use is a 5 lb shot filled rubber mallet takes several hits but it will go . Anyways even if it's difficult you can still say you did yourself there's some that can't seem to get past that . I've made lots of mistakes and still do and it's really the only way to learn . Best of luck on your project and thanks for the kind words and for watching .
@@s33therfan how many kilometers or miles are the car?
@@missionnad1 I believe this was right at 185k at the time , thanks for watching
@@s33therfan
I have the same car ,180k ,my engine is 1.6 diesel(109 hp)
I don't have any problem with cv axles,the car is verry ok.
The only components i have change in 11 years was:2 ball joints,2 bushes,2 shock absorbers and sway bar links
Best regards from Romania.
@@missionnad1 yes these are great cars , I've never owned one of the diesel engines version but I bet they're great cars. Thanks for sharing
So the pin opening has to be faceing up correct? im going to use grease to hold the lock pin up so it wont move hen installeing the passenger side axel.
You are correct , thanks for the feedback.
Glad I read this before installing. I did not know this.
Would it be fine to use a slide hammer with the cv axle attachment to use detached the axle from the intermediate shaft?
Yes , if you can fit it fine then it will work. Those intermediate can be the most stubborn to separate. Thanks for the question.
An excellent passenger side cv joint replacement video, thanks!
You are welcome
Great video homie that part with the socket extension to get the new cv axel in saved me over 60$ took me about a hour to remove old one and install new (2004 Mazda 3s) 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you so much.
Hi, great job! Do you think that rented removal tool you used on the driver's side in the other video would have been useful instead of hammering? I'm looking to build such a tool in the prospect of this job. Thanks!
It could for sure , it is a handy tool. Thanks for the feedback.
So you only needed to remove the ball joint only? So many videos shows removing ball joint, tie rod, end link, caliper, etc. If it is just ball joint, then this might not be as hard as I initially thought. Would this be any different on a 2008 mazda 3i?
Should be the same. Thanks for watching.
Great help, thanks a ton for putting this up.
Thanks for the feedback and the kind words sir , glad the video could be of help .
Hi! @3'51'', are you positive that you would loose transmission fluid if removing the whole ensemble, including the joint shaft? I am looking in the service manual, it says nothing about the fluid. Thanks!
Most likely you will lose a little , but it depends on how much the car is tilted. Just measure what leaks out and replace.
Wow. Thank you for posting this. The driver side CV joint on my 2012 Mazda 3 is clicking badly. I'm considering trying to replace it myself. This is less scary than I thought.
Thank you for watching and best of luck on your project .
@@s33therfan hi would you happen to know a good place to find the axle seal for the manual version of this car or if seals the same for both ? Local part stores computers shoe it doesn't exist and I got a seeping one .
@@dakkadakka9189 ebay is usually my go to place for hard to find parts , if I cannot find it there I am not finding it anywhere.
Look at this on eBay
www.ebay.com/itm/312993394744
Here is what I found Im thinking the passenger and driver are the same as it does not differentiate . You may want to plug your year into the compatibility just to make sure but they should be the same across many years . Hope this helps and thanks for watching
@@s33therfan thanks I've really looked into it as I went to Napa and my location they don't hire people who are clueless unlike others but there system was of no help in determining, given only one was listed im kind of thinking auto and manual use same seals as only one seal came up but it was labeled automatic transaxle seal
@@s33therfan ya I definetly think that is the part there thanks alot now to see if I can find it any where local that's not the dealer
You should edit in a part reminding people to keep the wheel turned to the right while aligning the new CV shaft.
Why's that? (Genuine curiosity)
Hello
Am from south Africa. I would like to ask if there's any online stores you may refer me to get that half shaft of both inner and outer cv joint as one piece for my mazda3 1.6 2006 (Z6)
Curious as to why yours has the smaller axle bolt? Mine has the big 33mm. I cant seem to make sense of it
Seems like I was researching this years ago and couldn't make any sense of it myself. Maybe someone else can chime in . Thanks for the feedback.
@@s33therfan logically i would think the smaller bolt wouldnt be as safe as your traditional 30-33mm axle bolt. Currently rebuilding the entire front end in my 06 mazda 3, along with the axles.
You’re a life saver!!!
Thank you very much for the great feedback.
yo man where did you get that axle bolt for the end of it? mine didn’t come with one
The dealership might be able to get one. Otherwise get a grade 8 bolt same thread and length as old one. Tractor supply seems to have a decent selection. Hope this helps.
What kind of grease did you use on the spline
Any kind of grease will work , but I used some lucas tractor heavy duty grease jn this case. Thanks for watching.
Is it the same process for the driver side?
Regarding the extension shaft that goes from the transmission to the bearing and inner joint, does that extension shaft has a spring clip on where it goes into the transmission (like the Left hand side cv shaft has) ? Thanks for the video. (when ever I know theres a spring clip holding the shafts in I anticipate issues getting the things out.) Maybe I need to eat more meat.
yes it pretty much has the same type of clip, and it's sometimes a real bear to separate. Thank you for watching.
@@s33therfan dang. well, I got the right hand side cv axle off the extension shaft bearing and Im glad about that. I made a 4 foot long bash bar and bolted that to the inner universal joint cup and hit it with a very solid wack and it came out. doing it under the car - I cant apply enough force. Next time it goes to a mechanic. still thanks for your guide, it gave confidence.
I don't understand something - You mentioned the bracket and a clip ~3:59. Do we need to take the bracket off? It doesn't look like it was taken off in your video. So am I right to think all we have to do is hammer the male end/right of the bracket out?
That is correct you hammer off the male end . Make sure and clean it well and grease it good before reinstalling. I have had situations where that joint shaft could not be removed easily so I removed the bracket and all. This just gives you the room you need to really force it apart. The only down side is losing transmission fluid and having to replace it. Thank you for watching.
@@s33therfan Got it! I meant to thank you a whole 8 months ago but forgot lol. But it makes perfect sense, thanks!
What issue did you have after replacing the strut that made you replace the axle? I’m having an issue as well after replacing my strut assembly and was wondering if it is the same thing you were experiencing. My car is making loud vibration sounds when I accelerate and especially when I turn right and accelerate. It’s more prominent when the car has been parked cold overnight.
The cv axle was worn and the added stress during the strut removal finished it off. Basically it overextended during strut replacement and I didn't know until it was too late . A lot of caution is needed when moving the old cv axle around , now if you pop one out you can put it back in but sometimes this requires removal of the boot . Now cv axle tend to make more of a popping sound , a lot of time bearings will cause more vibration or growling sounds along with motor mounts . One way to take the guess work out may be to get it up on jack stands or blocks safely and see if you can rotate it and isolate where the sound is coming from exactly . But I will also say it is very common to fix one thing just to reveal another weak point. Hope you find this helpful and I thank you for watching
Another thing I would add is replacing the struts will often time throw the alignment out and cause the type of vibrations you're describing as well . Pretty much any disturbance replacing the front suspension parts etc will knock out the alignment so you may start there with an alignment . Now if you know you're going to be replacing other parts first you'd definitely want to wait on it because it would need realigned . Thanks again
M T were u ever able to figure out what the issue was? I got a loud grinding sound sort of thing when I turn right also and wondering if u changed the axel or bearing
Hi! Mine is 36 spline outer joint; 23 spline inner joint, I haven't had luck in finding it
I've got several videos on these cv axles so I'm not sure if I showed the separation point from the joint shaft. In other words you'll pull out the whole unit the long section but sperate the shaft from the cv axle that actually goes into the trans on that pass side. Big mallet makes easy work of that .I've got a video on a Mazda 6 that shows this I know. But any parts store should have these cv in stock the only thing they should need is engine size year , and whether or not yours requires the 13mm bolt or has the actual axle nut like most 32mm I believe . But if for some reason they don't you can get on ebay and plug your information in to the compatibility chart and it will give you the exact part. You can also msg them with your information and they can double check . Hope this helps thanks for watching
Hi! thanks for ur reply! I'll check on ebay!
Great video! keep it up!
Thank you for the feedback I appreciate it. Hope the video was a help and makes sense of the cv axle. The job really isn't that difficult other than a little crawling under the car and of course taking all the safety precautions. Thanks again for watching and I appreciate your support to my channel .
When you took out the cv axle do you need that little black part in the middle because I ordered some parts and it doesnt come with it.? Do you know the name of that little part by chance?
Its not necessary only the factory cv axles have those that ive seen. None of the aftermarket will have the rubber piece . I believe its merely a precaution device to prevent rubbing in case of heavy impact over some rough bumps . Ive never noticed any problems not having it . Thanks for watching
Much ❤ from Hawaii🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thank you so much.
What were the symptoms I got a friend and I’m looking at her car and it sounds like a flat tire going down the road and there is about two inch play when I rotate front to back in rotation
Could be a bad wheel bearing with that much slack , or something loose. The cv axle would pop when turning or possibly wobble at higher speeds. Thanks for the feedback.
@@s33therfan I’m going to jack her car up tomorrow and see if there is vibration in the coil! Changed out cv axle and lower control arm. Thinking after vibration check of taking hub assembly off and have wheel bearing replaced
Is that an o ring behind the splines left in the car?
They have an o ring , I suppose it helps keep water and dirt from getting into the joint and splines. Thanks for watching.
ive gotten the cv axle back in but cant get the ball joint back in , not sure how to go abt getting it back in , am i just stupid or what?
Be careful not to over extend the cv joint when putting it back in place. Sometimes it just takes getting the ball joint at the right angle to slip back. A pry bar in the pinch joint helps sometimes. Make sure the cv axle is seated fully into the hub also. I use a lot of pb blaster white lithium grease, it works great ; makes going together easier as well as getting things apart next time. Best of luck and thanks for watching.
I'm having issues getting the new axel seated on when I tried the extender and rubber mallet the end would just start to pop out and not actually seat where the pin is. Am I doing something wrong? Or is there another way?
Those clips are stubborn but if the mallet does not work just use the cv axle itself while using a jack hammer type motion. Make sure to clean thoroughly and grease the both male and female ends generously. Best of luck and thank you for watching.
Turns out I just didnt have the upper body strength lol got my husband to bang and push and got it on finally thanks for the help 👍😁
Shit. I bought a new axle but didn't buy replacement grease. It says it comes pre greased, but should I get some just to be safe?
You should be fine they should have plenty of grease already. Thanks for watching
I need to replace the inner axle in my 2007 2.0 manual. So you say there is a chance that I will loose some transmission fluid when I pull out the inner axle? Or if the car will be jacked up it won't go through that hole?
If it is jacked up at more of an angle then less usually spills out . And if you have another ready to go then you can usually get it back in quick enough that very little is lost. If it did need refilled there is a 23mm (fill plug ) I believe on the part of the tran facing the front of the car. With the car perfectly level it will barely drizzle out when full. Thank you for watching.
@@s33therfan thx for quick reply! And thank you for the vid.
Is an alignment required after this job? Also, do you know if it’s an identical job on a Mazda 6? I have a 2012 that I need to perform the same CV Axle job on.
Technically it could get out of alignment but I never have aligned one from removing cv axles. Most of the time I won't unless I am replacing tie rods or some major front end work , or if it feels like it needs it from walking. I have not tackled a mazda 6 that new but if they are like the older ones the knuckle is the hardest part . That and the cv axles seizing needing alot of spray lubricant. Other than that the cv axle itself comes out the same. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
How were you able to pry the lower control arm from the car? I've been trying for 2hrs now and can't get it to budge.
Still goin 6 hours later. Used a ball joint separator and got it to pop down to where the top of the ball joint is flush with the top of the knuckle. It was a pretty violent movement. Can't get it to move from there. Can't get it to go back in place either if I wanted to give in, put it all back, and drive it to a mechanic.
Sometimes they can be pretty stubborn. I have had to soak them with penetrating fluid and use a 10 lb sledge to get them to budge. The pinch point makes it difficult i have had to pry that open slightly . I will say these control arms are one of the more difficult to remove. I use a big crow bar too . Just make sure its aligned good and hammer it back into place . The next time you have to work on it things should go easier for you once you have done it once. Hope this helps and thank you for watching.
@@s33therfan I got it! Ended up buying a chisel and cutting the tip off so I could wedge the pinch point open. Once I got that in there I was able to pry it out with ease.
I have the 13mm axle nut style axle will the 32mm nut style axle work as a replacement, I’m having trouble finding a 13mm style front axle, but can find ones with the 32mm no problem
You know I've got to tell you that's a very good question. I don't even know why they use one vs the other , because I've seen either or on automatic or manual . I've always used ebay and have no trouble finding them but I'd suggest getting one from wherever you're getting it and doing a side by side comparison . If the length same and splines same then I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work . To tell you the truth I don't even see how the 13mm bolt was ever a good idea. You know I'm just guessing here but I'm wondering if it doesn't have something to do with the wheels and the slight cv protrusion . But anyways if you do a comparison and it's not a match there shouldn't be any issue returning or just compare it right there in store. I'm betting they're the same with the exception of one protruding slightly and the other inset . If you figure it out before me definitely keep me posted . I'm curious now and I'm going to have to check it out next chance I get . Thanks for watching
s33therfan thank you for your reply and it would be a cool comparison and probably be one of the first to be posted about!
@@tylermarini9683 no it wont work. The splines are different at the wheel hub. Ask me how I know.
I have this clunk in the front end 09 mazda 3, the sound happens over small bumps or big going fast or slow. i got under the car and the passenger side cv axel as small movement side to side but not up or down. Next without the car running if you oscillate the steering wheel there is a knock from side to side from the rack and pinion. How much side to side movement in either part is normal?
It sounds like the tie rods may need replaced , inner and outer. I would start there and see if it improves. It could be the entire rack needs replaced , and I have had that be the case. A lot of parts can cause clunk , from stabilzer bushings , to stabilizer links, and on from there. The stabilizer links and bushings would be the cheaper place to start. I had a mazda 6 that every suspension part and piece was worn out and the noises persisted until all was replaced. Thanks for the feedback.
@@s33therfan thanks for the reply. I've replaced all of the suspension and I ordered a rebuilt rack and pinion. Your video definitely helps
M
@@s33therfan it ended up being the sway bar link which was only 3 years old.
Are 2004 and 2008 Mazda 3 the same drive shaft front Passager side
The removal is close to the same . 2008 uses the axle nut and length and splines are different i believe. But it separates the same from the joint shaft . Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@s33therfan thank you
Play back 2xs speed. Youre welcome
Best advice ever.
Hola amigo soy de chile tengo ese mismo problema tengo un mazda 3 2004 busco el eje palier completo i acá en chile no esta me podría ayudar plis
Gracias por los comentarios, espero que puedas reemplazarlo fácilmente.
Fuck yeah man !!!!! You did it an awesome job 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you very much for the terrific feedback.
You can pull the cv axle with a light yank. You dont need to beat on it
You should have swapped over the dampers/ balancers from the old unit
Mine bottoms out but doesn’t click
It could be the struts are causing the excessive movement. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for video big heap of help
Thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching
White engine is in that mazda?
This has the 2.0l , thanks for watching
Where did yo go to get a new axle? Did you have to go to Mazda or autozone or something? How much was it? Also, ..machined metal that is brand new.. 🤤
I believe it was either o'reillys or autozone ; I know it was around 50 dollars. It worked perfectly too. Best of luck on yours and thank you for watching.
@@s33therfan that whole thing was only $50!? Serious? I would have though all that machined metal would be at least $300. Is $50 for all those parts, boots, and other sections on it?
I just checked and autozone has them for around 75 , but that includes boots and everything. Sometimes they sell the entire joint shaft and all but I'm not seeing that on this year. Thanks again
Great vid 👍🏽
Thank you for the feedback , hope the video helps you out . I always like to cover something that's seemingly simple yet to someone that hasn't removed this cv axle could be puzzling. I know the first time I wasn't sure about if the whole unit needed replaced myself . Definitely makes it easier knowing what you have to do upfront . Thanks again for the like and for watching
Why don't you just replace the bearing?
Thank you
Thank you for watching
Man, A for effort but overall the headcam is chaos. And you don't show quite a bit... Skipping to finished product misses a lot of the final problems. I can't relieve stress of the components to just easily swing everything around and magically make the ball joint line up. Its like holding an anvil in each hand to me.
Frame size 205 55 16
I hate that 13 mm axle bolt. I bloody hate it. it makes it impossible to use a gear puller on a stuck rotor without pushing your entire CV axle out of the hub
I never understood the design myself , just doesn't seem sturdy enough . I know some they used the axle nut some they used the 13mm bolt . Thanks for the feedback
shit, looks like i will have to change carrier bearing.
This car keeps breaking axles like crazy and cv always gets suck taking out
You mean the shaft it's self or that rubber boot ?
Jordan Depends how low you drive I am on bag so my axles breakentirely
I just replaced them three-months ago and is broken already
@@carolimendez6661 ok what axles are you running oem or after market ?