Just catching up with this series. Great series and very accessible, for someone who just enjoys makers work. You have your own style with instruction, self-depricating humour and great quality of work. Stick in and you will be this decades TOT. Thank you. Paul, Scotland.
Here I was yesterday working on a similar thing for mine when I had a learning experience, that is to say I munted it completely; fingers crossed for the old "repair by replacement" approach.
Bit late, but when using this peck drilling method, I've heard of drilling the holes staggered (leave one, drill one), and then doing the rest of them in a second pass. It's supposed to give the drill a more even load as the holes are either into solid stock, or have two opposing holes. When drilling them in order, they always only have a hole on one side.
First time viewer here. Really impressed with the quality of the video! That ps/2 -> USB hack had me surprised, I would've bet money that it wouldn't work, but you proved my expectation wrong, well done!
Thanks, I appreciate that. I also went through a phase of trying to tink up TOT gags, but it was unnatural, and I couldnt pull it off. I guess each has to find their own voice :)
Seals are not as rockety sciency as most people believe. Just get the bore ID and the groove OD. Width of the seal is the last bit you need to consider. Thats literally it, most are about 5-10 dollars.
At least your severing of the bar with the hammer is more believable than some of the stunts This Old Tony pulls! Machining (even drilling) beats sweaty methods any day of the week.
I didn't even think of Tony's magical metal severing. I was just happy bashing it with a hammer worked, as I feared I'd still have an hour of hack sawing in that bar.
About that facemill, on a FP2 i pushed to 70mm wide 6mm deep with a 80mm 5 insert facemill until i didnt have the courage to push further. Im willing to bet the Maho could do about the same.
@@RotarySMP yea that might be the limiting factor. I used a hilma Hydraulic vise with 4x M12 Holding it to the table so no worries there. But that vise runs arround 3-4 thousand. It Was as silent as can be. 400rpm and 125mm/min. You could hear the load on the machine but no Chatter. It also was in 42CrMo4.
@@RotarySMP Had a lot to remove, but its not a 100% duty cycle kinda of cut. I also checked the tram of the vertical head and it did move a bit from that cut
I would stop right before that finish pass with ball-nose end mill and leave it with Maya pyramid look. It looked way cooler than Tiger-und-Pantera uebertanklook (dare to say Mousekampfpanzer look?) that you ended up with which is too... Austrian. Merry Christmas!
@@RotarySMP Thanks for the reply! I actually wasn't expecting to see one because of the age of this video. I've been really enjoying the content, especially since TOT's absence. Keep doing what you're doing! Happy Holidays!
If your friend has not solved those seals - there is service "Seal-Jet" pretty much everywhere in Europe. They are making custom seals from database or from drawing. German company makes cnc machines and material, and local small company does service. Search for it on Google, few should pop up close to you.
Hey I got to admit, I never thought I see a turd make a carrot holder, I'm impressed, very impressed. I am not sure about anyone else, but damn I never saw that coming.
hi, thanks for the great video. may i ask you for a link or specs for the keyboard you are using? i'm looking for one of those since a while - and this one looks perfect. many thanks!
It is a "PC-Mini 5" from Kundisch. The company still exists but I think that model of keyboard is pretty ancient. I bought it through Ebay.kleinanzeigen.de kundisch.de/ Thanks for watching.
Great video love 'm. I lost such a knob ( 4 pc.) , bug had sone instant 2 C epoxy clay , for hard mold making. I Just molded by hand a New knob around the lever . And let it harden. Besides color thats a bit of . It works even better then te original knobs . As this one doesn't come loose.. EVER ..LOL Grtzz from the Netherlands Johny geerts
@@RotarySMP I normally make new pistons that use std o-rings rather than hassle with trying to get seals from china. it winds up being way faster in the end.
@@RotarySMP yep thoes i got i a small 5 mm Allen. I love them for quick and easy setup of drills. I usualy got all milling tools on My machine. I can have 60 tools in my dmg
Hey mate can you please measure the inside diameter of the hydraulic jack cylinder. And the actual width of the groove the piston seal sits in on the rod.cheers JW
Rotary, I recently migrated over from Ol' Tony's page. So far I have to say that I'm enjoying what I see, but I'd like to make one request. Is it possible to slow down the rate of the timelapse when machining, or maybe zoom out a bit? I was nearly sick to my stomach and had to speed through all those parts. I look forward to watching more videos.
Hi and welcome. Sorry about that. There are a couple of videos where I over did that. It is difficult to predicte the resulting look of time lapse, and rendering takes hours on my laptop. Take a look at the most recent video, where I tried to tame that more, rather than just doing the full machining at ver high speed.
Damaged gearbox. I can only use it in high gear, which is too fast for cutting steel. I described the problem somewhere around episode 15 of my polishing the turd lathe series.
@@RotarySMP aha, well thats a pity. Maybe a new gearbox, or refurbish it. :P Before i say anything else; do check every link. :D Your MAHO looks really cool! But i could never fit 1.5 ton in my shed. So a RF-45 milling machine has to be the CNC. But would it really cost 10k to get it all done? I really wonder. Its only 3 closed stepper motors, and 3 ball screws right?? O and some plexiglass enclosure. But thats it. Still your milling machine is way way cooler, while it also has horizontal milling! I really dont hope a conversion will cost me 10k, while that is more money than i have for that sort of stuff right now. I also thought about converting a 290V lathe to CNC. Found some good books about this on www.pdfdrive.com. Check this out!: archive.org/details/unitedstatesrifl00colvrich/page/48/mode/2up It has a lot of horizontal milling action. It is also said in the text: "these techniques also apply to other fields of engineering." Or something along those lines. Also if you like that, check my about section of my youtube channel for some other cool stuff on making barrels, bullets, tunnels etc. etc. I dont have a lot of video content and i wont have that any time soon. But i think its worth your while while even though i did machining in school, i never knew how barrels were made, untill i did all the research i did. Now its really clear how it is done. Its in a grabcad.org and archive.org link in my about section of my channel.. :) Greetings, Jeff
@@jeffjefferson2676 "But would it really cost 10k to get it all done? I really wonder. Its only 3 closed stepper motors, and 3 ball screws right?? O and some plexiglass enclosure. But thats it." The danger of a manual retrofit is that they nickel and dime you. Closed loops steppers need couplers or pulley and belt, drivers, which need break out boards, and cables and wiring. Three decent ground ball screws alone are going to cost over a grand. And they require end bearings. If you run dovetail way mill under CNC without an oiling system it will wear and gall quite quickly. Way covers also help. You need a E-Stop chain, end switches, home switches, and they need more wiring. Wire is surprisingly expensive. On a mill you are constantly touching off, so a pendant is a huge benefit. While not strictly essential, everyone puts a VFD on the spindle, then you add an encoder for threading. Plexiglass needs a frame. You'll need a coolant pump and tank, and/or misting system, with the associated tanks, tubing, fittings, wiring, sensors, releays etc. Lighting ditto. You can do it on the cheap like my mini-lathe, but every compromise is a performance hit, which makes it a little less fun to use, more prone to chatter, slower, less accurate etc. An enclosure for an RF-45 is probably wider than the MAHO footprint, as it has a little more X travel. Once you exceed 250 kg, you are well beyond human lifting, and need a pallet jack, crane etc. So you can carry in the RF-45 in parts, but once built it makes no practical difference between an enclosed RF-45 at 400kg or the Maho at 1200kg. But you'll certainly see the difference in performance. A better choice than retrofitting a manual machine if space is limited, would be something like an EMCO VMC 100.
@@RotarySMP So what you are actually saying is: you need to put on a lot of extra (expensive) parts onto your rf45 in order to make it to a point that it works fine as a CNC machine. So you might be better of buying a CNC machine to start with, even though the controller might be broken, while it has all the features you need to make it a CNC machine that lasts. Okey, i get that. But the problem is, i still need to move houses once or twice, and that will be a lot of trouble if it is 1.5 ton instead of 400 kg, you disassemble into smaller pieces. Still i would love to have a fully functional CNC machine. And i am seeing a lot of CNC machines lately on online marketplaces. For a way better price than a couple of years ago. But they are huge! So you have to have a permanent place where it stays in. And that is my worry, its to big to move, and thats probably why its prices that economical. For now. Im stuck learning all sorts of things from books, so no CNC anytime soon for me... :( Thanks for the reply! Greetings, Jeff
It didn't show, but I sure hope you machined in a way to orient the tool holder so it's alligned 100% each time, like all the other videos you referred to. Especially with a CNC version it's important to have it alligned perfectly each time. I you haven't included a feature like that I sure hope you do. In particular Robin Renzetti makes a big number out of how important that part of this design. He even made a big number out of how important it is to preload this allignment, to make it repeat propperly.
I use feature cam daily for work. And its constantly doing things you dont want it to. My latest gripe with feature cam is trying to mill back chamfers. There is NOTHING. You have to fake it out, make it think your doing something else.
Thanks. My versions is an ancient one from 2005. Pretty clunky, but good enough for what I do. I always run it through it's back plot, then NCViewer.com, adn then the backplotter in LinuxCNC. I do like tht it is pretty easy to tweak the post processor for LinuxCNC. Started with one of the Fanuc examples.
@@RotarySMP I use the most updated version. Its owned by autodesk now. Once set up correctly. Its auto feature recognition is pretty good. Saves 30-50% time programming. But anything complex it just skips it. Havnt seen all your videos. But cool stuff man!
It is old. I bought it used of www.kleinanzeigen.de using the search "folientastatur". I covered it again in my most recent video... ruclips.net/video/XAQRvcMiHUQ/видео.html Thanks for watching.
Why not make it even more it even more rigid by dropping the QCTP mounting pillar all the way through the riser block and screwing it into a T nut on the cross slide. You would have every component apart from the tool holders directly clamped to the cross slide.
I swear every time I machine Grey iron my machines are screaming out for help, I actually ended up with a single shallow gall line in the Y axis ways of my freshly scraped Toolmaster mill because didn't clean off all the cast dust immediately and kept running jobs till the end of the day.
You really notice the fine dust rising off the cuts like smoke. I gave the machine a good clean as soon as I finished. Luckily the Maho has a central oiling system, so oils is regularly flushing out swarf and debris if it gets past the way seals. Thanks for watching.
@@MrVinicius343 LinuxCNC, with the Gmoccapy GUI. There is a long thread of the retrofit here: forum.linuxcnc.org/12-milling/33035-retrofitting-a-1986-maho-mh400e?start=0
@@RotarySMP yes but i know that ps2 to usb have certain limitation like the maximun of key you can press a the same time, but for this purpose i think that is not a problem
Will the squeeze at each press of a letter on the membrane keyboard stays for a ever? It feels like you squeeze a groundhog each time. Make me feel sad. Mario Concerning the parts left over in you drive way, I should over you 600€ for them and collect them later. Please give the money to the owner, in the mean time, i will refund you when I am collecting them. Fafa
amazing, confused by connectors which have the usage icons on them and the end pins and sockets visible. stay away from anything sharp and watch out for those paper cuts. You might want to look at your videos before you make them public.
Just catching up with this series. Great series and very accessible, for someone who just enjoys makers work. You have your own style with instruction, self-depricating humour and great quality of work. Stick in and you will be this decades TOT. Thank you. Paul, Scotland.
Thank you for the kind words. Tony is at a whole other level, but I appreciate the encouragement.
Your channel is an island of sanity in my week. Thanks so much! You never disappoint.
Thanks for the nice compliment, and thanks for watching.
Love seeing the Maho in action! Keep it coming mate
Thanks, and thanks for watching.
Hi,
As always an interesting video... the solid tool mounts to make sense especially with it being a CNC lathe...
Take care
Paul,,
Thanks for watching.
Here I was yesterday working on a similar thing for mine when I had a learning experience, that is to say I munted it completely; fingers crossed for the old "repair by replacement" approach.
They stiffen up the tool holding stack considerbly.
Bit late, but when using this peck drilling method, I've heard of drilling the holes staggered (leave one, drill one), and then doing the rest of them in a second pass. It's supposed to give the drill a more even load as the holes are either into solid stock, or have two opposing holes. When drilling them in order, they always only have a hole on one side.
Thanks. That is a good tip.
i think that having references to this old tony is cool
Tony makes the best videos.
@@RotarySMP yep he have a nice way to do his videos and you too
@@MakarovFox Thanks
@@RotarySMP :)
First time viewer here. Really impressed with the quality of the video!
That ps/2 -> USB hack had me surprised, I would've bet money that it wouldn't work, but you proved my expectation wrong, well done!
Welcome and thanks. I must say I was surprised it worked first time as well.
The only way you can be accused of copying This old Tony Is that you both do brilliant work!
Thanks, I appreciate that. I also went through a phase of trying to tink up TOT gags, but it was unnatural, and I couldnt pull it off. I guess each has to find their own voice :)
Seals are not as rockety sciency as most people believe. Just get the bore ID and the groove OD. Width of the seal is the last bit you need to consider. Thats literally it, most are about 5-10 dollars.
Thanks David.
Surprised there isn't already a 3d printed ball for that last bar on the quill handle
That might be polishing a turd :)
@@RotarySMP That coming from someone who spent several episodes scraping in a chinese mini lathe :P
@@UnreasonableSteve I know a thing or two about polishing turds :)
At least your severing of the bar with the hammer is more believable than some of the stunts This Old Tony pulls! Machining (even drilling) beats sweaty methods any day of the week.
I didn't even think of Tony's magical metal severing. I was just happy bashing it with a hammer worked, as I feared I'd still have an hour of hack sawing in that bar.
I've had good luck with a few PLA knobs. Paint with a rattle can and high build clear coat.
Thanks for the tip.
About that facemill, on a FP2 i pushed to 70mm wide 6mm deep with a 80mm 5 insert facemill until i didnt have the courage to push further. Im willing to bet the Maho could do about the same.
I think you are right, but I worry about the work holding. It would suck if a chunk got thrown out. Did that cut your describe make an aweful noise?
@@RotarySMP yea that might be the limiting factor. I used a hilma Hydraulic vise with 4x M12 Holding it to the table so no worries there. But that vise runs arround 3-4 thousand. It Was as silent as can be. 400rpm and 125mm/min. You could hear the load on the machine but no Chatter. It also was in 42CrMo4.
@@MrLembnau That is some serious metal removal.
@@RotarySMP Had a lot to remove, but its not a 100% duty cycle kinda of cut. I also checked the tram of the vertical head and it did move a bit from that cut
@@MrLembnau Ouch. That could have gone south fast if that forces cused the head to rotate.
I would stop right before that finish pass with ball-nose end mill and leave it with Maya pyramid look. It looked way cooler than Tiger-und-Pantera uebertanklook (dare to say Mousekampfpanzer look?) that you ended up with which is too... Austrian.
Merry Christmas!
Thanks for the feedback. I like this look. Pretty happy how it came out. Have a happy new years.
Looks great, very nice work!
Thanks for watching.
Did you ever find parts for the car jack thing? I'd check a motorcycle parts store. They look just like front shock absorber seals
Thanks. I didn't persue this further.
@@RotarySMP Thanks for the reply! I actually wasn't expecting to see one because of the age of this video. I've been really enjoying the content, especially since TOT's absence. Keep doing what you're doing! Happy Holidays!
@@jameshilferty5403 I appreciate the feedback and engagement of people, so I do try to respond to comment. Thanks for watching.
very good video..thanks for your time
Thanks for watching.
Abom79 used to make hydraulic rams and occasionally repairs them, pass the info onto him, maybe he can help.
Thanks, nico has since sourced the seals, and has them arriving hopefully today.
If your friend has not solved those seals - there is service "Seal-Jet" pretty much everywhere in Europe.
They are making custom seals from database or from drawing.
German company makes cnc machines and material, and local small company does service.
Search for it on Google, few should pop up close to you.
THanks a lot. I think Nico sourced replacement seals, but took the Jacks away, and hasn't fixed them yet.
Hey I got to admit, I never thought I see a turd make a carrot holder, I'm impressed, very impressed. I am not sure about anyone else, but damn I never saw that coming.
Dumb I know, but everyone else seems to want to turn a standard thread on their new CNC lathe, but they can do so much more.
Awesome! 👍
Next Episode: Tool table for Lathe!
Good idea.
@@RotarySMP in Linux CNC 🙃
Lovely job!
Thanks Julian. How is the Boxford working out for you?
hi,
thanks for the great video. may i ask you for a link or specs for the keyboard you are using?
i'm looking for one of those since a while - and this one looks perfect.
many thanks!
It is a "PC-Mini 5" from Kundisch. The company still exists but I think that model of keyboard is pretty ancient. I bought it through Ebay.kleinanzeigen.de
kundisch.de/
Thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP cool - many thanks!
I did a search on Google UK for seals, and there's a lot of British suppliers of seals and seal kits.,.
Thanks.
Great video love 'm.
I lost such a knob ( 4 pc.) , bug had sone instant 2 C epoxy clay , for hard mold making.
I Just molded by hand a New knob around the lever .
And let it harden.
Besides color thats a bit of .
It works even better then te original knobs .
As this one doesn't come loose.. EVER ..LOL
Grtzz from the Netherlands
Johny geerts
Great tip! Thanks.
no band saw mate?
My band saw had a damaged gearbox, and was only usable in high gear and thus too fast for cutting thick cast iron.
ask Abom79 about the seals
Good idea. Thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP I normally make new pistons that use std o-rings rather than hassle with trying to get seals from china. it winds up being way faster in the end.
@@deadeyedsam850 Nico took the pistons to to a hydraulic supplier, and found some standard seals to match.
You could Turn up some new seals on the CNC mini lathe.
Or let Nico cut some out with his favourite tool... the angle grinder. Thanks for watching.
That's an interesting drill chuck, what kind is it?
I showed it at 20:30 in this video...
ruclips.net/video/TNZWCuHoGrA/видео.html
the cable it came with had the male end.... For the gaskets, make them out of silicone rubber, the harder kind.
That was full size DIN. The adapter has DIN Mini.
Or get Nico to make his own Silicon rubber bunges.
Thanks for watching,
Surprised it didn't make it into the overflowing list of modifications on the board
Oh, I clean forgot. Good point. Thanks for watching.
Nice job. That maho is great.
I also love My drill chucks. I got quite s few of them. They are from sandvik
Those CNC style ones with the allen key closing are much nicer than anything I have used before.
@@RotarySMP yep thoes i got i a small 5 mm Allen. I love them for quick and easy setup of drills. I usualy got all milling tools on My machine. I can have 60 tools in my dmg
I hope you can keep enough work comming in to keep that CMX 1100 working hard. Very nice.
@@RotarySMP me too.ive been running My own shop for 2 years almost. And it aint looking tobad. I am busy most of the time
@@nikolaiownz Great to hear. That is a really nice set up you have there.
Hey mate can you please measure the inside diameter of the hydraulic jack cylinder. And the actual width of the groove the piston seal sits in on the rod.cheers JW
Hi John. ID is 30mm, and the piston seal is 4mm wide in the groove.
Get to the point already.
I learned more about Niko and his car jacks than Niko knows.
Thanks for the feedback Andrew.
I have a Tapmatic 30.. i think it is, do you know what they use for tapers to hold them? closest i found was a JT2 but i wasnt sure.
They were offered with a variety of tapers. Mine has a B18.
Rotary, I recently migrated over from Ol' Tony's page. So far I have to say that I'm enjoying what I see, but I'd like to make one request. Is it possible to slow down the rate of the timelapse when machining, or maybe zoom out a bit? I was nearly sick to my stomach and had to speed through all those parts. I look forward to watching more videos.
Hi and welcome. Sorry about that. There are a couple of videos where I over did that. It is difficult to predicte the resulting look of time lapse, and rendering takes hours on my laptop. Take a look at the most recent video, where I tried to tame that more, rather than just doing the full machining at ver high speed.
It's ok. It was fun to watch, that's why I kept staring into the sun. Good videos. Keep it up.
@@fatcamp907 Thanks for the feedback.
Why not use the bandsaw for cutting that big a piece of steel??
Greetings,
Jeff
Damaged gearbox. I can only use it in high gear, which is too fast for cutting steel. I described the problem somewhere around episode 15 of my polishing the turd lathe series.
@@RotarySMP aha, well thats a pity. Maybe a new gearbox, or refurbish it. :P
Before i say anything else; do check every link. :D
Your MAHO looks really cool! But i could never fit 1.5 ton in my shed. So a RF-45 milling machine has to be the CNC. But would it really cost 10k to get it all done? I really wonder. Its only 3 closed stepper motors, and 3 ball screws right?? O and some plexiglass enclosure. But thats it. Still your milling machine is way way cooler, while it also has horizontal milling! I really dont hope a conversion will cost me 10k, while that is more money than i have for that sort of stuff right now. I also thought about converting a 290V lathe to CNC. Found some good books about this on www.pdfdrive.com.
Check this out!: archive.org/details/unitedstatesrifl00colvrich/page/48/mode/2up
It has a lot of horizontal milling action. It is also said in the text: "these techniques also apply to other fields of engineering." Or something along those lines.
Also if you like that, check my about section of my youtube channel for some other cool stuff on making barrels, bullets, tunnels etc. etc. I dont have a lot of video content and i wont have that any time soon. But i think its worth your while while even though i did machining in school, i never knew how barrels were made, untill i did all the research i did. Now its really clear how it is done. Its in a grabcad.org and archive.org link in my about section of my channel.. :)
Greetings,
Jeff
@@jeffjefferson2676 "But would it really cost 10k to get it all done? I really wonder. Its only 3 closed stepper motors, and 3 ball screws right?? O and some plexiglass enclosure. But thats it."
The danger of a manual retrofit is that they nickel and dime you. Closed loops steppers need couplers or pulley and belt, drivers, which need break out boards, and cables and wiring. Three decent ground ball screws alone are going to cost over a grand. And they require end bearings. If you run dovetail way mill under CNC without an oiling system it will wear and gall quite quickly. Way covers also help. You need a E-Stop chain, end switches, home switches, and they need more wiring. Wire is surprisingly expensive. On a mill you are constantly touching off, so a pendant is a huge benefit. While not strictly essential, everyone puts a VFD on the spindle, then you add an encoder for threading. Plexiglass needs a frame. You'll need a coolant pump and tank, and/or misting system, with the associated tanks, tubing, fittings, wiring, sensors, releays etc. Lighting ditto.
You can do it on the cheap like my mini-lathe, but every compromise is a performance hit, which makes it a little less fun to use, more prone to chatter, slower, less accurate etc.
An enclosure for an RF-45 is probably wider than the MAHO footprint, as it has a little more X travel. Once you exceed 250 kg, you are well beyond human lifting, and need a pallet jack, crane etc. So you can carry in the RF-45 in parts, but once built it makes no practical difference between an enclosed RF-45 at 400kg or the Maho at 1200kg. But you'll certainly see the difference in performance.
A better choice than retrofitting a manual machine if space is limited, would be something like an EMCO VMC 100.
@@RotarySMP So what you are actually saying is: you need to put on a lot of extra (expensive) parts onto your rf45 in order to make it to a point that it works fine as a CNC machine. So you might be better of buying a CNC machine to start with, even though the controller might be broken, while it has all the features you need to make it a CNC machine that lasts.
Okey, i get that. But the problem is, i still need to move houses once or twice, and that will be a lot of trouble if it is 1.5 ton instead of 400 kg, you disassemble into smaller pieces.
Still i would love to have a fully functional CNC machine. And i am seeing a lot of CNC machines lately on online marketplaces. For a way better price than a couple of years ago. But they are huge! So you have to have a permanent place where it stays in. And that is my worry, its to big to move, and thats probably why its prices that economical.
For now. Im stuck learning all sorts of things from books, so no CNC anytime soon for me... :(
Thanks for the reply!
Greetings,
Jeff
Wait, do you not own the 4x6 bandsaw?
Nope. I have a Do-all 16"-SFP, but it has a gearbox problem, and so I cant us the slow speeds.
Very interesting
Thanks.
abom79 is your best bet for the hydrolic seals
He sure knows hydraulics actuators. Thanks for watching.
Any plans for a turret?
Not at this stage. I don't tend to ever do production runs, so switching quick change tool holders is not a burden. Thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP makes sense, awesome project there though!
@@RotarySMP A turret could be useful to shoot at people trying to leave junk on your driveway 🤣
@@danielfogli1760 Now you are talking.
looks like a giant keyboard keycap
Good call. It kind of does.
It didn't show, but I sure hope you machined in a way to orient the tool holder so it's alligned 100% each time, like all the other videos you referred to. Especially with a CNC version it's important to have it alligned perfectly each time. I you haven't included a feature like that I sure hope you do. In particular Robin Renzetti makes a big number out of how important that part of this design. He even made a big number out of how important it is to preload this allignment, to make it repeat propperly.
Thanks for the reminder, I'll mention that in this weeks video.
And another 30 episodes of accessories... Nice!
:) At least. Thanks for watching.
I use feature cam daily for work. And its constantly doing things you dont want it to. My latest gripe with feature cam is trying to mill back chamfers. There is NOTHING. You have to fake it out, make it think your doing something else.
Thanks. My versions is an ancient one from 2005. Pretty clunky, but good enough for what I do. I always run it through it's back plot, then NCViewer.com, adn then the backplotter in LinuxCNC. I do like tht it is pretty easy to tweak the post processor for LinuxCNC. Started with one of the Fanuc examples.
@@RotarySMP I use the most updated version. Its owned by autodesk now. Once set up correctly. Its auto feature recognition is pretty good. Saves 30-50% time programming. But anything complex it just skips it. Havnt seen all your videos. But cool stuff man!
@@206sea Thanks for the positive feedback. I appreciate it.
where to buy a keyboard like that?
It is old. I bought it used of www.kleinanzeigen.de using the search "folientastatur". I covered it again in my most recent video...
ruclips.net/video/XAQRvcMiHUQ/видео.html
Thanks for watching.
Go visit the nearest hydraulics shop with your sample seal and they will get them to you
Or even better, get Nico to visit the nearest hydraulic shop :). Thanks for watching.
This is what i was going to suggest 😋
@@andresgodinho that's the good old way that has always worked lol
@@RotarySMP I do not like your suggestion. You should be kinder to man kind. Even if man-kind is french.
@@NicoCarsAndCookies Yeah....nahhh!
Why not make it even more it even more rigid by dropping the QCTP mounting pillar all the way through the riser block and screwing it into a T nut on the cross slide. You would have every component apart from the tool holders directly clamped to the cross slide.
Too much work. That would be polishing a turd :)
Thanks for watching.
what a cute little tool post. Is that half an AXA ????
Yepp. OXA must be about that. Thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP adorable. lol...
Mother of all interrupted cuts LOL
:) Thanks for watching.
it almost looks 3d printed with the layer lines :)
Good point. I should have loaded cast iron wire into the 3D printer. Tat would have been much easier.
@@RotarySMP hehe. sls in your future
@@bluelive23 The price will have to come down a lot for that to happen .
Good job 58.726 #todoinventostv
Thanks.
I swear every time I machine Grey iron my machines are screaming out for help, I actually ended up with a single shallow gall line in the Y axis ways of my freshly scraped Toolmaster mill because didn't clean off all the cast dust immediately and kept running jobs till the end of the day.
You really notice the fine dust rising off the cuts like smoke. I gave the machine a good clean as soon as I finished. Luckily the Maho has a central oiling system, so oils is regularly flushing out swarf and debris if it gets past the way seals. Thanks for watching.
10:51 bless you? :)
Thanks, most observant of you. Thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP Thanks for sharing.
just hand program it, simple ramp with some round corners
I could have, but it also increases in size conically as you move down so every single corner level has a different radius.
@@RotarySMP glad for your sanswer! witch cnc controler you have in the maho?
@@MrVinicius343 LinuxCNC, with the Gmoccapy GUI. There is a long thread of the retrofit here:
forum.linuxcnc.org/12-milling/33035-retrofitting-a-1986-maho-mh400e?start=0
About the seals: have you looked here? www.123kugellager.de/angebot-dichtringe.php
Thanks, I passed that on to Nico.
Try Renseal,com,au in Melbourne for custom seals
Thanks, but I am in Austria, not Australia, so that is a bit far away. :)
Oh my god! You didn't scrape the toolpost mount! I'm so disappointed! Might have to unsubscribe 😁
Be patient :) , I also cant leave that ball mill pattern on the top side.
Thanks for watching
ps2 wow that old
Yep. works thoough, since I butchered it.
@@RotarySMP yes but i know that ps2 to usb have certain limitation like the maximun of key you can press a the same time, but for this purpose i think that is not a problem
.
:)
Bulldog hydraulic seals are owned buy Komatsu but can get any seal ever built
Thanks. He got some (wrong size) form a local hydraulic shop, and since put in a little more effort to measure them correctly.
Will the squeeze at each press of a letter on the membrane keyboard stays for a ever? It feels like you squeeze a groundhog each time. Make me feel sad. Mario
Concerning the parts left over in you drive way, I should over you 600€ for them and collect them later. Please give the money to the owner, in the mean time, i will refund you when I am collecting them. Fafa
You'd better hurry Nico, I already have a pln for one of those hydraulic cyclinders.
now two turds
Thanks for watching.
amazing, confused by connectors which have the usage icons on them and the end pins and sockets visible. stay away from anything sharp and watch out for those paper cuts. You might want to look at your videos before you make them public.
In this case, the connectors didn't have the usage moulded on them. I looked them up. Thanks for watching.