I agree with him, hardening is a total pain to do, causes warp and scale, and just really doesnt help anything here. Hardening is useful for sliding wear surfaces, OR surfaces that need to withstand point loads and crush forces etc (like vice jaws). Since this is just clamping a saw blade the hardening is not needed.
All pretty much pointless. Arbours like this are everyday items often made for a job and used once. A lot of pointless work here even for something that may be used regulafly.
TOP TIP: Whenever one hardens ANY fixture, mandral, ETC, then ALWAYS RAW MACHINE OVERSIZE. In this example, the arbor should have been a tight push fit, and with oil quenching it'll become a push fit.... There is NO PRACTICABLE MAGIC RATIO, but the SMALLER the part, the greater the proportionally dimensional change...... If precision is important in the Hobby/jobbing shop, then use medium carbon steel(like you used), and DON'T HARDEN, as the material is intrinsically robust and abrasion resistant ie. Will function WAY BEYOND the user's needs over time. Knowledge is more than that imparted("Monkey see, Monkey do", but the ability to apply understanding of the principles that UNDERPIN KNOWLEDGE. Great video, and good to see your reflections re: machinery and its "perceived" uses! ❤️🤔👍
Two words that may be a game changer for you: Band. Saw. It’s this new novel way of cutting steel, my friend. Everyone does boring heat treating videos…oh, but not you.
Its so satisfying seeing rusty steel being made beautiful.
Hardening seems unnecessary here. My shop-made slitting saw arbors are non-hardened mild steel, been using them for years.
I mean, unless there's a down side, may as well.
I agree with him, hardening is a total pain to do, causes warp and scale, and just really doesnt help anything here.
Hardening is useful for sliding wear surfaces, OR surfaces that need to withstand point loads and crush forces etc (like vice jaws).
Since this is just clamping a saw blade the hardening is not needed.
@wizrom3046 Fair enough. Thanks for clarifying your reasons for not hardening the arbour. I'm learning something every day! Cheers mate!
All pretty much pointless. Arbours like this are everyday items often made for a job and used once.
A lot of pointless work here even for something that may be used regulafly.
Let the man cook.....
Beautiful production and informative, thank you for posting!
You took so much care in ensuring that fit would good. However, I have never seen a slitting saw or gear cutter that ran true!
By the way, me too
Well made, but stop leaving the chuck key in the chuck
I don't see anything dangerous in this.
Esses mini tornos ficam incríveis depois de poucos ajustes
TOP TIP: Whenever one hardens ANY fixture, mandral, ETC, then ALWAYS RAW MACHINE OVERSIZE.
In this example, the arbor should have been a tight push fit, and with oil quenching it'll become a push fit....
There is NO PRACTICABLE MAGIC RATIO, but the SMALLER the part, the greater the proportionally dimensional change......
If precision is important in the Hobby/jobbing shop, then use medium carbon steel(like you used), and DON'T HARDEN, as the material is intrinsically robust and abrasion resistant ie. Will function WAY BEYOND the user's needs over time.
Knowledge is more than that imparted("Monkey see, Monkey do", but the ability to apply understanding of the principles that UNDERPIN KNOWLEDGE.
Great video, and good to see your reflections re: machinery and its "perceived" uses!
❤️🤔👍
Great video, colleague👍👍👍
Thank you, colleague.
Are you still satisfied with this lathe?? Do you use the same motor?? Peace from Greece
This is a small low-quality lathe, but I don't have another one), the motor is standard, but I plan to replace it
Hi, why didn’t you harden the shaft after finishing it? Thank you, great video and very informative.
After hardening, the geometry of the part may change
@@hammerland4028 There is always a reason. Thank you.
Well a step b beyond after oil hardening polish...then heat till starts to blue then water quench....gets a fairly good Rockwell
You showed hardening, but not tempering. Without tempering, the steel will be glass hard and brittle.
Very interesting video. Wich steel did you use?
Steel type unknown
What is the method to adjust the compound slide angle.
I see you using an alle key.
There is a video with this modification on the channel
Go big or go home has left the chat😂😂😂😂 but cool all the same!
Very nice work. Very handy tool
well done, ,man! Brazil.
Did you learn to use the lathe alone?
Yes, I did
На станке паук?! Человек-паук так же начинал!😃
))
Де купував каолінову вату білу, адресу Можно будь ласка.
LYTX-312, таке шукайте, давно дуже купував
@@tehnar_dima дякую
Who is cutting who?
Это мало масла при закалке, скорость охлаждения мала
Там скорее всего и недогрел немного
you tempered it a bit to much but cool
0:28 omg, if I saw it on my lathe during the work, it may lead to very bad consequences... 🕷😨
8:10🤣😂😂🤣
Never seen anybody use their lathe as a furnace before.
Two words that may be a game changer for you: Band. Saw. It’s this new novel way of cutting steel, my friend. Everyone does boring heat treating videos…oh, but not you.
I use a slitting saw instead of a bandsaw...because I don't have room for a bandsaw.
Erkenntnis: Nicht jeden Stahl kann man härten. 😅
The problem is that the grade of this steel is unknown, and my muffle furnace is out of order
اهدار للوقت والمال
Buy a bandsaw bro.
I use a slitting saw instead of a bandsaw...because I don't have room for a bandsaw.
Ok...
Wow! I have never seen so many bad machining techniques in one video