How to remove stuck or seized pedals and repair damaged threads
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- Step by step how to remove your stuck or seized pedals, We also show how to repair the threads by helicoil on your cranksets if they are damaged when removing pedals.
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Been doing my own repairs for ~20 years and my mind was blown by pretty much every piece of advice here.
Hi Colin, Thank you
Yours was the only video which described heating up the crank, and that was what worked for my seized pedal on a 1990 Schwinn mountain bike with the original pedal. chewed up 2 Allen wrenches trying to do it and 90 minutes before I saw your video. Thanks very much
Great news, pleased you found it useful, Thank you for your king comments
Thank you so much was struggling for about 3 hours to get my pedal off. Had messaged a guy on Marketplace about buying new cranks. I watched you put a bit of wood under it and I only had a brick of the right size. It came off easy as pie. Legend 👐
Thanks for watching and your comments
Thanks for the tip (using a brick) perfect!!! 👍🏻
The best and most comprehensive video on the subject. Especially for seized pedals.
Thank you
With pedals and threaded bottom brackets anti-seize is your best friend. It gets absolutely everywhere but it's a genuine life saver.
Its true
Tell it to the factory mebbe
Thanks for the video. Solved my stuck pedals with the heat gun tip after a couple of days prep with WD-40. Came out without too much effort in the end.
Excellent video Very professional, you know when someone is good at what they do because they make it look easy!!!
I appreciate that!, thank you
Well done, nice one! It leaves me with smile on my face, because I „helicoiled“ a damaged thread of a gearbox from a classic RC car a long time ago. It was made of plastic, not aluminium, but successful as well and a good reminder for my regular bike builds too!😃 Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it!
In the midst of try to remove a seized pedal from a road bike where the previous owner pretty much stripped the 15mm bolt. I've tried cooling the pedal spindle as many other videos of this type recommend but I think it's time to bring on the heat. Great video Dave!
UPDATE: SUCCESS!! Finally got the old pedal off with some heat courtesy of the wife's hair dryer (that was the risky bit). All set with the new pedals now. I owe you a pint the next time I'm cycling through the Dales Dave!
Hi, Thank you, heat is a seized pedals best friend
One of the best and most helpful videos out there - really well explained. I have one of my SPD SL pedals stuck on the bike and will attempt the heat method to try to remove the pedal. Thank you.
Hi, Thanks for watching, Glad it helped!
Ah, thanks so much! This is exactly what I needed and much smarter than the other videos out there
Hi Theo, Thanks, Glad it helped
Thanks for this video - using the heat method I was finally successful in removing a seized Crank Bros Stamp pedal from a Sram GX crank arm. I've tried numerous times without success, and had saved the job for another day. On with the new pedals :)
Thanks for watching and your comments
Brilliant, thank you for sharing proper technics for tricky common jobs!
Hi, Thanks for watching, your welcome
This is great stuff. You've really explored this problem thoroughly.
Thank you.
Thanks for the advice , I brought a second hand Rose road bike but never managed to shift the jammed SPD pedal . I am a newbie road biker living in Spain , I did not have access to a park tool spanner so brought a new 15mm spanner from Decathlon then drilled and bolted 2 machine screws through a piece of bar to make the spanner longer , , After blocking the bike up and having to use a plumbers blow torch on the end of the pedal and a tin of WD40 after 3 attempts it finally shifted , No thread damage , Greased up the new pedals and will re grease them every month . A brilliant channel , Learning next to adjust D12 s - Out tomorrow with a new shiny set of pedals on the beast ,
Hi ,Mark, I love spain. sounds like you used your good initiative and it worked, where theres a will theres a way.
Hi Dave. The pedals on my ebike had worn bearing and I could't shift the right hand one even with a 2 foot bar. Your trick with the block of wood worked a treat and no heat needed so just saying thankyou for a great tip. New Pedal fitted
Well done and thanks
What a great video spent about a hour trying to remove the pedals before watching this got my heat gun on it sorted it in a few minutes nice one 👍🏻
Hi Jason, thanks for watching and your comments
Thank you for passing on your experience. Good video, well done.👍
Hi, Thanks for watching and your kind comments
I tried your technique and it worked very good on my oldest bike.Thank you very much.
Great to hear!
Got my pedal off every thing was all right and no extra work needed, just needed the extra strength and it finally came off. Thanks for your help.
you are welcome thanks for watching
Awesome. Didn't realize a heat gun could be sufficient! Got the stuckest pedals that I ever had stuck off with a little penetrating oil and about twenty minutes of heating up the cranks.
Hi, thanks for watching,
Thanks great video. Borrowed my grandsons MTB and thought I would fit my SPDs but pedals have seized. I'll stick with the flats now but I can always refer back to your advice if he ever wants to change them.
Hi, Thank you for watching and your comments
Thank you very much! This did the job for me with a pedal that was so stuck.
You're welcome!
Heat was the solution for me! Used an old hairdryer and boom, was able to remove the pedal. Thank you!!
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comment
thank i pulled an ab muscle trying to get a dang pedal off for the first time. It's like working on my truck. Always more difficult than its supposed to be since everything is stuck
Hi Cameron, hope your ok, I come across lots of components that are either on too tight or stuck
Wow, this is a very complete explanation, many thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video; most helpful - many thanks!!
Thanks for watching and your comment
Thanks for the wood block idea, worked well👍
No problem 👍
Thank you!! The heat gun worked first time and my threads are fine
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comment.
Had a few nightmares with pedals learnt my lesson and always use grease now brilliant method using a block of wood never thought of that one
Hi James, Thanks
Many thanks, never thought about using a heat gun and worked a treat.
Hi, thank you for watching and your comment
Thank you for your info dave, brilliant my friend 😀❤️🇬🇧👍
Hi, thank you for watching and your kind comments
You're a star, thank you
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments, you are welcome
thank very much the block is a genus method... work likr a charm...😀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👋👋👋👋
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments. pleased it worked for you
The Wood Block method worked great! - Spent some time in Yorkshire and loved it! Blessings, Gerald
Glad I could help, There are some lovely spots in Yorkshire
awesome work dave
Thanks
Nice one. Had a locked on pedal that had mangled two allen keys- followed all the tips and it suddenly came loose. Cheers.
Glad it helped!
That bike is beautifully well used!
Hi, thanks for watching and your comment.
I have a stationary bike that had really frozen pedals. This video helped a lot by adding some good tips. I thought for sure I'd need to use heat because I'd really worked on these pedals and thought they were all but welded on! In the end I didn't need to. What helped me was #1 using a nice LONG steel tube for added leverage. #2 using something as a stop for the opposite side pedal to keep the pedals from rotating. In my case it was two 25 lb. octagon dumb bells stacked on top of each other. I was able to use my body weight to keep the thing from tipping over, applied a nominal amount of pressure and voila the pedal broke free. In fact when I heard a bit of a "snap" I wasn't sure what happened because I was sure it was going to take much MORE pressure. The piece of steel tubing I used was 3 feet long.
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments
I always wrench back and forth as I go to get it fully loose rather than forcing it off in one direction. It helps not damage the threads.
Great tip
Pedals get stuck because there put in without copper slip , £5 pot will do a thousand pedals , great instructional video by the way
Life saving tip literally
Very helpful.
Thank you
Thanks Dave!
Your welcome
Here I am watching the same videos at 3am and have tried everything. Will be buying a new crank arm for less hassle 👍
If all else fails buy a new one but at least you have tried
awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it
well done Dave. The only additional thing I would have done is to set up some sort of heat sink for the pedal axle so that the expansion difference between the crank and the pedal is maximised.
Hi, Thanks for your comments
Good in theory, but how
By adding more mass (metal) to the pedal ......eg use wire to strap one or more pieces of solid metal bar to it.
@@mikerbwind the pedal axle is isolated by bearings, so trying to heat sink the pedal body wouldn't have any appreciable effect. If the pedal could be disassembled leaving just the bare axle, that'd make it possible.
Plastic/nylon bushings may insulate the pedal crank but sealed bearings are all steel so depends on the quality of the pedal. Stripping the pedal off the pedal axle is an option.
Nice one Dave
Thanks
Hi thanks for the instructive video, which shows well how much effort is needed to get the old pedal out. My seized pedal only has an 8mm hex socket on the back of the crank arm, and the hex socket become a bit damaged (not completely destroyed) by the torque I applied already. Do you have any suggestions what I could try now?
Hi Andrew, If you have accidentally damaged the hex socket on the pedal and its not possible to get any more leverage on it then your going to have to take the crank arm off, cut the pedal off by cutting through the spindle close to the crank arm then drilling it out from the back via the hex socket, then fitting an helicoil. You will need a drill press and carbon drills as the pedal spinle metal is generally hard. Bit of a job i'm afraid.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Thanks - I was worried you were going to say something like that! Will try my expert local bike shop as a next step and see where that takes me. On the other hand, this might be the perfect excuse to get the drill press I've wanted for ages but could never justify.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic "carbon drills" - you mean , of course, carbide and, I would add, cobalt works very well. Not criticizing, just clarifying your good information. Also going for the most commas used in a single sentence. Haha.
Could you not cut the spindle near the pedal, grab the stub left in the crank in a vise (a big one, for those of you following along at home) and turn that thing out, saving the threads and drilling, etc. I work on aluminum structure all the time, drilling is last resort, anything you can do to turn the fastener out is preferable to cutting and drilling - and helicoiling.
Nice work bro 😅
Great, thanks.
You're welcome!
I'd previously tried to remove 20+ year old pedals without luck and the heat made all the difference.
Hi, thanks for watching and your comment
V good.
You could have had the crank forward them the spanner would push the bike into the ground, not lift it.
Also a tap wrench would be better to get two hands on and keep the tap running straight.
I really enjoy your content. Smashing.
Hi Paul, Thanks for your comments and tips
well put together tutorial
Thanks for watching and your comments
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic np
I wish I lived near this shop, non of the shops near me would even try such a repair,
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments.
The best!
Thank you
Block of wood worked a treat
Great Vidio to have you tried heat then quench with cold water
Yes I have but the problem with that is the crank them contracts back on the pedal.
thumb no 1000 👍
I used a impact wrench, like 30 ugga duggas and my very stuck on pedal got loose, no visable damage to the threads :)
Nice one
The best
Hi, Thank you for watching and your comments
Best way to do it is wrap old tubes around spanner and crank very tightly tens of time then apply more force with mallet, don't put fingers anywhere near the gap between spanner and crank cuz it will be sudden
Hi, thanks for your comment
I've got a rounded of Allen socket on an Ultra carbon crank. Had all sorts of tries at getting it off. Dowsed it in WD40 for days too. Bought an Allen bolt remover socket set which is my next step. Failing that I can only think it'll have to be drilled out. If I do that I'll cut the pedal sort on the other side with a grinder so the depth of drilling is less. I don't want to do this to my beautiful Specialised Venue but may have to.....Any advice?
Hi, sorry to hear about your pedal issue. you have an awkward situation simply because your cranks are carbon, you risk damaging the crank by putting too much force on it. you will be very lucky if the extraction tool as the socket depth is not very deep. your only option is to dismantle the pedal leaving the axle sticking out of the crank. Create 2 flats one on either side of the axle, then use a large vice to hold the axle, use the length of the crank arm to create a lever. the risk is pulling the pedal boss from the crank. Hope this helps
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Thanks yes, i've already dismantled the pedal to see what was inside. I had considered (as you suggest) creating two flats on either side of this shaft to do what you've advised. I'm baffled as to why it so seized on. My son and I had his heavy duty impact gun on it and it didn't budge. If it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all!
Is there anyway i can use the same bolt from the old pedal to a diffrent type pedal because the ones that on my bike right now is small and i have these other ones but the bolt is to big
Hi, Thanks for watching. Normally the bolts are not interchangeable but I dont know which pedals you have.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic there TXJ SPORTS and there red K-PEDC but the bolt is to big and the other ones are perfect but very in bad shape there called union
what if you have rounded over the place where you put your spanner over can you do something to help the spanner to hold on?
Hi, thanks for watching . No not really it will need additional work
Take crank of ,take pedal apart to the spindle ,put the pedal spindle in a strong vice ,apply heat and oil and hopefully bobs your uncle
is the insert helo coil needed?
Hi, not on this case
Really nice video! Thank you! Just two remarks:
1) Not talking for two minutes after applying the heat helps keeping the heat. :D
2) Wear gloves! Most of these oils / fats are incredibly unhealthy (pot. carcinogenic) and penetrate the skin easily.
2.2) Burning the oil creates quite a bit of potentially dangerous smokes. If you really need to apply heat after applying the Plus Gas, better do it outdoors.
Good comments, thank you
My peddle is ruined , wrench is stripping the damn thing smooth
so that area of pedal spindle where you slip on the spanner has 'rounded-off' in my case. I can't even get a set of vice-grips to grab onto it. And I don't have a hex slot behind the spindle to have a go that way. Do I have any options aside from attacking it with a dremel and drill and just completely cutting off the pedal ?
Hi, Thank you for watching and your comments, take the body of the pedal off the spindle, create a flat on both sides then hold it in the vice, apply some heat
I'm in the same boat. Will probably need to file the spindle flat at some point and apply heat.
@@GregInTokyo what I ended up doing was drilling a hole through the spindle where you would normally put the spanner to remove the pedal - inserted a strong bolt (+nut to lock down the bolt) through the hole and then have a go at it that way with the vice-grips. Picture having a PVC pipe - drilling a perpendicular hole through it and putting a pencil through the hole.
When I clamped the vice-grips over the spindle, the bolt I inserted through the spindle gave something for the vice-grips to bite on and it worked !!
What will be range for tire pressure?
Hi Adam, Thanks for watching and your comments, im not sure
I had a stuck pedal and allen keys just would not shift it. Used an impact driver and it came off super easy. Was very surprised at how quick it was.
i live on campus, so i don't have the tools i need. but the LBS 2 blocks away offered to take mine off at no cost.
Good Bike shops, we need more
I have this issue at the moment my crank arms are carbon do i need to do anything different?
Hi William. Yes, Carbon reacts to heat in different ways, however you will find in most cases that the pedal boss in bonded into the carbon. my advice would be take it to your bike shop let them have the responsibility. they may refuse to do it from a liability point of view. good luck
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic i supported it with the block then long spanner and pipe got it free but it was damn tight!
hahahah "heating for 6 days" HAHAHA!
Thanks for the great video, unfortunately I don't have the tools to heat my crank arm.
In my MTB group people have said to "shock the bolt" by hitting it with a hammer. I'm assuming you wouldn't recommend that, potentially leading to damaging the crank arm threads.
ps. I don't have a pedal spanner but I found someone kind enough to lend me one, so hopefully I don't have to attempt "shocking the bolt".
Hi Thanks for watching, shocking the bolt I would not recommend.
Where abouts is your bike shop
Hi, thank you for watching and your comment, HX6 2LB
Where can i get the same tool used
Hi, Thanks for watching, do you mean the pedal taps
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechaniche means the pedal removing tool
yeah looked everywhere none of this worked for me. So, what did I do? Took out the hacksaw, cut the spindle, forced a socket on the stripped out bolt. voila - nubby came off. what a pain! And no, pedals were not super pricey. they were super cheap, didn't care for em and came on the used bike. luckily did save the xtr crankarms they were on.
Nice one, thanks for watching
Looks like I need a heat gun. Went to change my pedals today to something with a bit bigger platform for my big feet and it was dead stuck. Even used a breaker bar on it for leverage, didnt budge. 1 came off no problem, the other not at all so gave up haha. I swear I put lubricant in the threads last time I changed them for this to NOT happen.
Soprry to hear about your pedal problems, heat certainly helps for sure
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic thanks :) went and talked to my local bike shop, they'll take it off and rethread it if needed for $10. Make it somebody elses problem
PUT GREASE ON THE THREADS TURN IT BACK IN THEN BACK OUT PUTZ
Heating does not work in steel vintage cranks. Here is what I do: Disassemble the pedal body completely, attach the pedal spindle to the vice and apply your force to the crank arm. The leverage is big so it comes off easily.
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comment, yes that works well, we tens to grind to flats on the spindle so the vice gets a nice grip
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic yeah, it is impossible to attach without grinding the shoulder. And the other most satisfying thing is to detach a realllyy stubborn steel bb fixed cup. Cheers
Literally sprayed WD-40 in the Allen hole, then flipped it upside down, held the brakes and jumped on the Allen key and nothing happened. I weigh 165lbs and pretty muscular but even with both hands pushing, I still couldn't get it
Thanks for watching and your comments
Unfortunately there's no way to get an impact driver on the nut. Its one of the most useful tools I have. Gets siezed nuts and bolts out. Gets woodscrews in where a screwdriver can't
Hi John, Yes the impact driver does a great job sometimes.
It went together easily in less than an hour. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments, which seat post do you mean?
You fail to mention one side is reverse thread, very important
I broke my spanner trying to get it off. That God it was cheap
Must have been well stuck on
Good karma come to you !!! Solved with some heat and loose easily…thank you 🙏
You are welcome
Is It me or is he turning that crank side pedal anti-clockwise? Everyone says turn the non crank pedal anti - clockwise and the crank side clockwise to loosen. I wonder how he removed that without causing further damage himself?
Hi, both pedals on left and right loosen backwards, so the drive side will be anti clockwise and the non driveside clockwise.
If bike shop butchers actually greased the threads then this would never be a problem.
But they know youll be back to give them more of your hard earned cash when you can't get your pedals off.
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments
heat guns not that bad when you cant touch the crank after a min with it....
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments
It also helps to go in the right direction 🤦🏻♂️
I did this much quicker. I took my grinder and kut the pedal straight off. Then I whisked off the 15mm stub with my 900nm impact. Quite easy. Just ignore the two hours of black magic I had just performed trying to get the sob off. Sometimes brute force is the only appropriate reaction.
It's like taking a tooth out
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comments
With plumber's pliers every pedal will surender
Rothenberger pump grips, the best ever
And all because the bike manufacturer or owner didn't assemble the pedal with a small amount of grease costing practically nothing!
Hi Pete, thanks for your comment,
As soon as I hear “stay safe” I leave.
Shame, I found this really useful from a friendly yorkshire bloke.
you can always spray it 1st give it 10 minutes etc let it dip down inside than try it use wd40 or gt 85 on the day or over nigh good luck 🤞
Thanks for watching and your comments
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic no problem keep the good work up 👍
ю
Im just gonna buy a new crank arm for £10 🥲