Best Ways to Remove Stuck Bicycle Pedal
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- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2024
- In a previous video we showed you how to remove bike pedals as well as service and installation. But what can you do if the pedals appear to be stuck pedals that don’t budge when you try to remove them? Here are some tips on how to remove stuck bike pedals or seized pedals:
00:33 How to loosen bike pedals: Place the chain on the large chainring so as to protect your hands. Spay with a penetrating solvent around the area where the pedal spindle attaches to the crank arm. I find Konck’er-Loose is better than WD-40 in removing rust and corrosion. If you have the time, let it sit overnight. Best to have the bike on the ground either with a floor stand or have someone hold the bike but make sure the rear wheel rests on the ground. On the ground you can get more torque then if on the stand where everything can move or bend. Also, don't flip it upside down or you'll just get confused as to which way to turn the pedal wrench. If you have a choice of using the pedal wrench vs a hex key on the pedal, the pedal wrench will give you more torque. We to remove the bicycle pedal by rotating it toward the back (clockwise on non-drive side, counter clockwise on the drive-side) as we show you in the upper right. Get into a position toward the rear of the bike and get a good grip on the pedals. If this fails continue below.
01:18 Use your foot: Make sure the back wheel rests on the ground or a floor rack. Get the pedal wrench or open-end wrench (usually 15 mm) parallel to the ground. Holding the brake levers so the bike doesn't move, place your foot over the wrench and pedal. Step down as if to pedal but back with your foot. This way by using your whole body, you are applying a great deal of force to the wrench. Works well with BMX, flat pedals, and most Look and spd as long as they have “wrench flats” for a pedal wrench rather than a hex key.
02:06 Try a "Cheater Bar": Piece of piping that sits over the pedal wrench. Try to remove the pedal as above. Some may suggest tapping the pedal wrench or cheater bar with a mallet or hammer. But you have to hold the crank or cheater bar with one hand and hit it with the other. You better have some heavy work gloves because the crank or cheater bar will vibrate like crazy and may bruise your hand.
The following are recommended for steel or titanium but beware on alloy or carbon fiber where you can do more harm than good.
02:32 Tie one crank to the chain stay and apply leverage to the stuck pedal with your cheater bar. Again good for steel or titanium bikes although I have had some success on a couple of alloy frames.
03:18 Board to secure opposite pedal as shown by RJ the Bike Guy who also uses a cheater bar (upper right). Several problems with this method. The board my damage the paint. You may be applying enough torque to snap the pedal spindle leaving part in the crank. Again, don't use this method on alloy carbon fiber frames which is easier to damage.
To prevent binding or seizing of the pedals:
1. Check the pedal for markings of R and L
2. Always grease the treads (or use carbon paste or anti-seize depending on the material) and tighten firmly but not hard or with gorilla force.
Was struggling with my brothers pedals broke a Allen tool. The step down on the wrench technique worked great broke both pedals loose this way ! Thanks
It is a great trick used by many bmx riders. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Let your legs and body weight do the work , or leverage of a cheater pipe , especially as you age , thanks for the good advice !!!!!!
Those are some excellent tips, Tony! I've done the 2x4 trick once or twice before, and if you got an old tube handy wrap it around the board on the area that will contact the frame or wrap the frame around the area that the board will contact. you can even use a t-shirt or rag to help prevent damage.
Excellent suggestion. I have a new way of using the board, wrench, cheater bar and the edge of a cinderblock wall which I'll put into another video. Regards, Tony
Thank You! I just tried the tie down the opposite crank method and it worked. I used three heavy duty zip ties on the opposite crank.
Good for you Sherlock Holmes. And another great use for zip ties. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
Hell yeah, the heel trick did it for me! Thank you sir! Got nice locking pedals on now.
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Realising pedals sometimes really is a painful job, thanks for the tips sir
Yes, it can be painful. These are the tricks that have worked best for me. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
The foot on the wrench trick looks neat - I'll give it a try if needed.
Please do and let me know how it works for you. Regards, Tony
Perfect. Worked a treat. Thank you.
Which method worked best for you?
@@tony10speedI sprayed some penetrant overnight, then used your first method - pushed the spanner with my heel. It took a little bit to line everything up but once that was done it was pretty straightforward.
@@elliott212 Thanks for the info. It will be helpful to our views. Regards, Tony
This came on my feed exactly as I was trying to solve that exact problem. Thank you !
Let me know the method that works for you. The feedback is always helpful. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed I removed the crank and let some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil seep on the back of the pedal shaft for 24 hours in a sink. Then some traditional leverage got them off once the cranks were reinstalled. I tried to find some CRC Knock'er Loose in Toronto but it was nearly the value of the bike ! I degreased the crank threads and greased the shaft threads with lithium grease so I (hopefully) never have to do this again. At least on *that* bike. CRC looks like it operates faster though so in a bike shop context it is absolutely worth it.
@@louis-ericsimard7659 Liquid Wrench is a great penetrating oil. I like the idea of taking off the cranks and letting the cranks, adding the Liquid Wrench and letting it soak overnight. You could then replace the cranks to give you more leverage in removing the pedals. Thanks for the feedback. Safe cycling, Tony
Good video. One important reminder. The pedal on the left side loosens in the opposite direction. Easy to forget that as my husband did himself and wanted me put that in here.
Good point. If you push down with your heel on the pedal wrench handle on the drive side, you are turning the pedal spindle counter clockwise. If you push with your heel on the left side, you are turning the spindle clockwise - which loosens the pedal. Thanks for your comment. Tony
@@tony10speed Thank you sir. Important to remember also the bike companies don't do that to 'mess with your head' or anything. They have to make the thread on the left side "backwards" because if they didn't, you'd have to tighten the pedal on that side once a month or so. I.E. you'd be loosening the pedal a miniscule amount with each cadence.
Wow, this is a very good explanation, many thanks for share them.
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
It’s really the best way! Thanks man!
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Leaning with my back against a wall, I placed my left foot onto my left pedal and my right foot onto the end of my extension and was finally able to free my left pedal.
Can be done, but you need to watch out that the pedal wrench and extension don't fly off the pedal spindle in the process - where they can hit the floor and bounce back up at you. In the process, you can also loose your balance. That's why I prefer methods where at least one foot is planted on the ground. But glad it worked. Regards, Tony
Nice summary.
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you tony
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thanks Tony
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
good options. thanks
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
last time my pedal was so stuck that it almost destroyed my wrench, thanks for the tips
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
The master!
Thank you. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Please do seatpost
Will do. Thanks, Tony
I usually use a bicycle pedal wrench 🔧.
I do also. But some of the bikes brought in to me require just a little more like a "cheater bar" or one of the other methods described.
Try to strap the oppersite crank arm to the rear stay . Dont use a plank of wood as seen in this video, that`s just daft.
That is one of the options in the video and a good one.
Something to new to me I've seen a bike pedal that requires a hex key.
Depends on the pedal. Some just require a 15 mm pedal wrench, some have just an hex key and some have both. If both are present, I usually go for the pedal wrench since I can get more force. Here's how to use the hex key:
ruclips.net/video/KctFfTjL0EQ/видео.html
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
the foot trick + some wd40 penetrating oil worked! thank you so much, fuckin 4 hours trying to pry this sucker loose
You're Welcome. Also visit our RUclips home site at:
ruclips.net/user/MrTony10speed
Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Why would you want to remove the pedals in the first place?
I'll just name a few reasons:
1. With time, pedals may creak or make noise as lubricant dries up. See:
ruclips.net/video/xn0bokygJ9c/видео.html
2. Pedal bearings do wear which also may cause noise or even impede pedaling. In such a case, the pedals need to be overhauled or replaced.
3. You may decide to install a new crank with longer or shorter crank arms.
4. Maybe you want to switch the pedal to a new or different bike.
5. One may want to experiment with spindle washers to move the pedals outward for comfort.
6. Your pedal gets damaged when your bike which was nicely leaning against a wall is accidently knocked over.
All of these points to the fact that you should remove and service your pedals every few years as in the video above.
Good question and thanks for asking. Regards, Tony
the pedal itself could be broken or damaged and needs to be replaced by a new one
Have you ever broken a pedal by any of these methods?
Not yet, but keep in mind that there's always a possibility when using a cheater bar and a hammer or mallet.
I always forget which way to unscrew the pedals
Drive side: Counter clockwise (turn the pedal wrench or hex key toward the rear on each side)
Non-drive side: Clockwise (turn the pedal wrench or hex key toward the front on each side)
See our video for more details and tips:
ruclips.net/video/MM0Nikxz62E/видео.html
Unwind - left pedal turn to the right & right pedal turn to the left
Why not turn the bike upside down?
Removing pedals when the bike is upside down puts undo stress on the seatpost, handlebars and stem. Besides, it's difficult to orient yourself as to which way to turn the pedal wrench.
Removing pedals when the bike is upside down puts undo stress on the seatpost, handlebars and stem. Besides, it's difficult to orient yourself as to which way to turn the pedal wrench.
WD40 is the solution for removing rust!
WD40 is a water displacement and penetrating liquid which is great for squeaky doors and flushing out dirt and grime. It contains only a small amount of lubricant. I prefer using Liquid Wrench or Knock-er Loose which I find better then WD40. With that said, I do use WD40 spayed on a small ball of aluminum foil to get out small rust spots which also spreads the frame paint over the area when I'm restoring bicycles.