If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
@@CoatsandGaiters Hello, I already greased and adjusted them and they are still making noise. Could it be wear on the balls? What if I better buy some from sealed bearings? What can I do? They don't have any clearance but they sound, they creak and squeak, the noise is annoying, my bike sounds like shit.
I fully agree with the previous comments. Your excellent video covers all aspects of sevicing pedals on a push bike. Now i'll do my pedals with knowledge and confidence. Thank you!
Thank you for the detailed instructions and tips on disassembling, cleaning, greasing and reassembling these common bicycle pedal bearings. Your video told me everything I needed to know to service the bearings on my dried out 10 year old commuter bike pedals. Showing how the grease securely holds the bearings was really helpful. Everything is running smooth again.
Some would think that after 10 years of use you might as well just buy a new pedal since it's so cheap, but what they don't know is it's much more satisfying to disassemble and fix up an old pedal, no reason to throw something away which can be just like new with a bit of work :)
Thanks for this detailed instruction. When completely disassembling the pedals, I would always replace the bearings, especially if there is dirt or rust underneath the dust cap. New bearings are relatively inexpensive, and replacement will prevent wear on the cones and cupes. I am pretty sure the bearing diameter is 1/8 inch and not 3 mm.
A socket can be used to help extracting the cone if it is not seize by rust. Because the cone is never mean to be tightened but just fix the spindle in place to a non-wobble sitting. The washer is in place to separate the cone from spinning when you use the nut to tighten them.
One of my cheap pedals went all grindy, I didn't know they were serviceable but I didn't have a spare handy so I had a look on You Tube. It turns out the outer cone got so loose one of the bearings fell out, but the grease and dust cover caught it. It's back together now but I'll be bringing the tools on the first ride just in case. Great video, cheers!
@@CoatsandGaiters Your video was perfect. Since it was the right pedal I could lay the bike down on the non-drive side and use it for the vise. 15 mm open end, 12 mm socket, screwdriver, long nose pliers, grease. US paraffin (kerosene) stinks so I used mineral spirits (paint thinner) for cleaning. Everything is tight and smooth after the first ride. My main concern was the pedal would seize and unscrew itself while riding but that didn't happen and probably won't now. Nothing was rusty or contaminated just loose, so I may be lazy and leave the left side alone, it isn't loose. If it ain't broke....
You really shouldn't be using magnets to hold ball bearings in place. It will magnetize them and make them act weird in the bearing grooves. It's not quite as bad for such a rough application as bike pedals are but still. It can also make them accumulate iron shavings on their surface, damaging them as they rotate.
@@CoatsandGaiters It's something I'm more used to consider when doing maintenance on CNC linear rails, which use similar ball bearings, but I think it can apply to all types of bearings.
@@EMILE12345678901 it’s a valid point like you say. You can see it would attract metal particles which would create a weakness. Appreciate your advice.
This was a fantastic tutorial. I used a wrench (spanner in your vernacular) opposite a socket instead of the vise. The pedals I just redid came out great! Thanks!
Thankyou very much, helped me out a load! Just a thought, with those plastic pedal bodies you could drill a hole in the center part where the shaft goes through to inject grease with a syringe so it would come out either side through the bearings to regrease them and expel some of the dirt. Then a screw into the hole you drilled to seal it up afterwards?
What your thinking about will not get all the dirt and contaminates out. It needs to be perfectly cleaned out because contaminates act as compound in the grease. Compound grinds and wears the bearings, bearing races, and cones out. Compound is gritty and acts like sand paper. You also want to completely disassemble and look at everything closely for wear, rust, separating parts, and cracks or cracking in the metal and plastic parts each time you regrease. Lastly, filling your pedals up with grease like your mentioning will add more weight to the bike.
Overhauling pedals is completely unnecessary. Just take off the end cap, flush it out with wd40 or something, then pack grease into the end till it comes out the other side.
Good information, very good for old peddles that need repair. However, I have 16,000 miles on my peddles and have never needed to take them apart. Starting when new I pop off the dust cap and I pack them full of grease until it goes all the way through and comes out the threaded end. This method lasts for thousands of miles and keeps the water and dirt out. Messy, but worth it. No tools required. This does take some time to do. I use my thumb to squeeze the grease in. This dust cap can also be used to push the grease in. Doing it this way the balls never run dry and so never wear out, never need adjusting. Best to wrap the peddle with paper towel to keep it from getting grease on it, as this is messy to clean up after. I do this on all my peddles and have had very good luck with it.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thank you. This millage is since 2018, on this bike. I have other bikes but I ride the dual sport most of the time. I do most of my own repair work. I am retired, from Seattle Washington. I am now living in Manila, Philippines. Many of the roads I ride on get flooded during the monsoon season. I try not to ride my good bike in the floods but sometimes it can't be helped. So even more surprising how well the peddles have lasted by packing with grease.
Good video I couldnt figure out the whole bolt washer bolt combo and this helped. Lost a couple bearings anyway but ill put fresh ones in next time. I used a socket loose to tighten the bearing bolts by hand to get the perfect tension and my pedals are now silky smooth.
Thnx m8. I was able to service the cheap wellgo pedals that came on my 9 yo Trek DS. I had to carve into the plastic cover (and pedal body) with a knife since it had too many battle scars. But the innards were identical to what your pedals have.
@@CoatsandGaitersVery nice tips. But I have one problem - on one of my pedals the lock nut and the cone nut are moving together. There is no washer in between them. It's just how both pedals were. And I'm the first owner. How I'm supposed to tighten it up. I even put the cone very loose and then the lock nut. When it reaches the cone there is a little presser and then they all spin as one, until they reach the bearings and crush them. I could probably change the lock nut, but not the cone. Or put a washer between them. Any ideas?
@@vehicle-stuff if you unwound the cone say 2 full turns and then started to lock it would it still get to the bearings before it locked? how about 4 turns away etc? surly it would bind and lock at some point and then gradually take it in bit by bit. Thread lock might help on the cone.
@@CoatsandGaiters I'm doing it from the beginning of the threads. And it still does not bind. Today is Sunday and I can't get a washer, but tomorrow will go to the tool store and get one to check. After that may be a new lock nut, or one with a rubber seal and some thread lock.
I would put a washer in the spot between the cone and nut because it seams that the nut isn't to be locked to the cone like nuts are locked to cones on the wheel axles. I would put a washer like your saying from a hardware store if on a budget. If you want to be sure your have the right washer in regards to specs in terms of metal grade, hardness, type of metal, etcetra, I'd go to a bike store. It's still cheap, maybe a few cents to a dollar more per washer at a bike store.
Thank you for the how to video! I just bought a new set of pedals for my bike. They take some effort to turn, though, so I think they may have over-tightened them at the factory.
I bought a used BMX for my kid and the pedals felt gritty and nasty. Decided to buy some new ones. New ones felt only a little better. Before I even watched this video, I backed off the lock nut on the old ones just a bit and suddenly the pedals felt great. Both sets were overtightened from the factory. After watching this video, I've rebuilt the old pedals, they're buttery smooth now. I'll fix the new ones another day. Should've tried servicing these before buying new... live and learn.
They get filled with dirt a lot. I will do what he recommends in the video which is filling the pedal up with grease just before putting the end cap on. It will stop a lot of dirt from getting in and reaching the bearings.
I have a pair of dartmoor cookie pedals, and on the right pedal the cone keeps tightening towards the bearings. I tight them enough so they don't have play, and also not over tightening them. What could it be? Lack of grease? EDIT: I didn't put any thread lock. Should I?
Yes, I've done that a few time and it keeps tightening. I also tried to tighten the cone against the nut, but it keeps happening. It's like as I'm pedaling the bearings tighten the cone
@@aguspege240 has something got swopped from the left to the right? wonder if they have left and right threaded nuts and they have accidentally got mixed up.
Before I assembly them I double checked the "L" or "R" on the axles and also the pedal position. I Didn't checked the cones, but they went smoothly over the threads.
Very helpful video. I had a question. The innards of the left pedal aren't reverse threaded like the rest of what is on the left side of the crank? It appears from the video that this isn't the case but I wanted to make sure. Thanks.
@@CoatsandGaiters yes, like standard cage pedals but another cage, there was a onza patriot triple bear trap pedal but I could many thanks get hold of one in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧
There are so many to choose from. I think any good quality grease is probably ok. Biggest issue is probably from an inferior grease washing out and away over time.
really good video ! i wonder, if i lost few bearings (on the right side of my right pedal) can i still regrease and lock it on place ? btw, you forgot to grease the threads that goes into the crank, not a big deal but still..
I had a missing bearing in my front rim decades ago after I maintainence them. It make a loud clanking noise. I ignored it. The next day when doing maybe 20 miles per hour, the front rim locked up. I we.t over the handlebars and smashed my faced into the sidewalk and got permanent physical problems from it. I recommend you keep the bearing size, count, etcetra to the original specs.
because left pedal has clockwise and the one has anti clockwise, So, left pedal will not fit the right crank and the right pedal will not fit left crank, is it right😊
What to do when one of the dust caps is lost and for that the pedal without the dust cap is getting hampered? I do not have the sophisticated sockets and the pedal holder at home. I only have spanners (10-15 mm) and allen keys (4 and 5mm) and some screw drivers for the reference. Kindly help me. Thank you in advance...
Not sure how to get around the socket issue short of borrowing one from a friend. You could possibly pack the end cap with grease to stop water getting in and maybe put some tape over the end or cut a disc from a plastic bottle and push it in to seal the area. Sorry I couldn't help much.
@@CoatsandGaiters no worries.... Thanks for the diy ideas but one thing I need to ask you, if I buy a socket wrench from a store, what is the standard size that is required for the flat pedals? Thanks again...
@@CoatsandGaiters no no....15 mm spanner/ wrench is required to remove the pedal from crank I know... I am asking that to disassemble the pedal (to separate the axle and the plastic pedal body what wrench size and/or type is required?
Hey sorry to bother you again but i had few more questions, since my luck nut got loose while riding iv'e lost all of one side ball bearings, they are 2.3 on my cheap calipers, does it mean its 2 mm? where can i find those bearings online? since this mechanism is not the best engineering and that antislip washer doesn't really do its job do you recommend using loctite on it do avoid what I've got thru?
If it says 2.3 they will be 2.3. .3 is a measurable size on such a small item. I'd have thought they would be on ebay. If you had to you could damage the thread to effectively lock the nut on.
I read that bearings come in different kinds of metals and hardness. Places like amazon do not always give you the specs you think your getting. It's also flooded with products that are not as superior as others. Made by China and made in China for example. I would go to a bike store to be sure you get all that kind of stuff correct for an efficient and correct mechanical working system. It's still cheap like ebay. Actually I found tools cheaper at my local bike store due to no shipping charges with in person shopping.
Thanks for taking the time to make such a detailed, easy to follow video, it is much appreciated and of great help. I just bought new flat pedals for my 2 bikes, a set of Tag T3s and a set of Race Face Chesters - What slightly concerns me is that both these sets of pedals are a little stiff; they don't spin freely on their axles. The do move round smoothly but you definitely couldn't spin them they way you do in your video. Is this normal for brand new pedals, would you say? I am assuming that once they have a bit of use they will loosen up at bit but would be interested to know what you think. Many thanks!
Thank you for the compliment. Smooth is the key I think. As long as they are smooth to rotate and not binding that's good. Spinning too freely isn't great as it means the bearings aren't making any contact with the axle so it's trying to find that happy balance. Smooth is good.
Make sure the pedals spin as free as possible without any wobble in the axle. with what your describing, they may be over tightened, causing the cones to push too hard on the bearings which in turn push hard on the bearing races. This results in too much friction, even with new grease in them. This kind of situation results to wear.
So, both spindles are threaded standard on the outboard end? Is the left one reverse threaded or standard (lefty loosey)? It seems like you are turning both left to loosen, but I’m not certain. Thank you!
I think they are both standard threads on the end as they just lock with the little nut. It's just getting it to lock in just the right spot so as not to pinch or be too loose.
@@CoatsandGaiters Actually, no. The ones I saw are Amazon 'knock offs" of original mountain bike brands (meaning, more than one brand copy). I was disappointed, but glad I found out before buying.
Thank you for the compliment Xcup. Sounds like you need to tinker with getting the locknut just right. It does take a few goes to get the position just right so when you tighten that locknut it locks properly but doesn't seize the pedals movement. In the video it takes me a few attempts to get things just right. Trial and error a bit.
It can be really tricky and frustrating. Don't forget if you used locktite you'd have to wait for it to fully set otherwise it might still come undone or tighten more. I know the feeling though I considered it as well lol.
Can you tell me what degreaser/cleaner you used in the video? Sorry my English isn't up to speed yet so can't tell what you said it was :( Thanks for the video btw! Really helped when I cracked open my seized VP pedals, now they work flawlessly again.
my flats have round axle where ya putting spanner not got flat side on them any clue how to remove them as can not get allen key to work seems seized up good
@@CoatsandGaiters the axle is round where it attached to crank arm it dose not have any flat edges between pedle and crank arm for spanners to grip but new ones have flat edges on axle so trying to get old ones off to fit new ones but due to the round axle i can not seem to get them off crank arms
hello everyone i need some help a few days ago i serviced my pedals but after riding for test one of my pedals hardened and the other one softhened . should i use locktite ?
Thanks! I did exact the same. I noticed one thing that when you test this you have to do it with on the bike and with force to really test it out. I got some mechanical sound so I have to take it apart again. Also one side was empty with ball-bearings so I have to count them on the other side. I got it to 14 but when I watched a little closer I saw it was room for another or?. Does anybody know if there should be more? Should you leave room like 2-3mm as a gap between them from the nr 1 through tha last one? One more Q. A new paddle can rotate like forever it seems but when you do this/ou service it doesnt.
Maybe different pedals have different bearings counts. All pedals might not have the same bearing count. I don't know, I could be wrong. When I've done lots of wheel, crank, and pedal bearings, I've always seen a gap like another bearing could be squeezed in. I wouldn't squeeze or put another bearing in. Best to check with the manufacturer for the bearing count requirement.
@@CoatsandGaiters $150 bike. buying quality replacements is 1/7 the value of the whole bike lol i tried everything, pressing the smooth end with a rubber ended rod to lock it in place and turning both ways but the pedal looseness stays the same. I also tried hammering one end to try and push the threaded end and smooth end together and that didn't work. Factories are pinching nuts to save pennies making my pedals literally unserviceable. Pretty much planned obsolescence when taking cost to replace into account.
Why would you take the pedal apart?? Just take off the end cap, flush it with whatever de-greaser, and push grease in until it comes out the other end.
@jamesconroy7030 how are you going to get grease into the bearings in the threaded end lol and even if you could get the grease past the first lot of bearings, why would you waste all that grease filling up the centre of the pedal. Do the job right and take it apart. Its not hard anyway.
@@dalj4362 You fill the outer end, and mash it in with your hand (or use a grease gun). It comes out the other side pretty quickly. There's not much space between the axle, and the body of the pedal. There's maybe 2 tablespoons of grease "wasted".
@@jamesconroy7030 No lol Silly idea. Seriously have you seen the tiny gap to get the grease through? Bet the pedals wouldn't spin nice either being packed full of grease.
If you click "SHOW MORE" in the description above your be able to see Links to the Tools 🔧🔨🔧 I use. Also Clickable Chapters📋 📙 throughout the video and other Links 🎬 that may be of interest. I've had a few viewers request where they can buy the tools they see in some of my videos but it's not very clear that the "SHOW MORE" tab has a lot of information in that may be of interest. Admittedly the amazon links are associated with me and I would earn a small commission which helps towards keeping the channel funded.
Thanks for the tips. I have a hard time adjusting the cone and nuts on this type of $4 pedals. It is much easier to deal with Shimano pedals.
@@rondhole thank you for the comment.
@@CoatsandGaiters Hello, I already greased and adjusted them and they are still making noise. Could it be wear on the balls? What if I better buy some from sealed bearings? What can I do? They don't have any clearance but they sound, they creak and squeak, the noise is annoying, my bike sounds like shit.
@@axelmoiseslaham452 are they plastic pedals? sometimes the plastic does creak as it wears.
Two years down the line and your video is still helping people. Especially me. Very well explained. Thank you very much from the Faroe Islands 🇫🇴
Thank you so much for the compliment Sune
A further 3 years on and it's still useful!
THANK YOU
browsed like 1 hour to find a video just to have the confirmation that the plastic caps can actually be removed
Nice video! I serviced pedals on a second-hand 1980s peugeot road bike and all components were similar, so this helped a lot.Thanks!
Thank you for the compliment and pleased it helped Falk Schönfeld
I fully agree with the previous comments. Your excellent video covers all aspects of sevicing pedals on a push bike. Now i'll do my pedals with knowledge and confidence. Thank you!
Thank you for that comment Peter. I wish you well and hope they run smoother after.
Teach a man to fish and he can feed himself for life.
Thank you for the detailed instructions and tips on disassembling, cleaning, greasing and reassembling these common bicycle pedal bearings. Your video told me everything I needed to know to service the bearings on my dried out 10 year old commuter bike pedals. Showing how the grease securely holds the bearings was really helpful. Everything is running smooth again.
Thank you for the compliment. Really good to hear the video has helped you.
Some would think that after 10 years of use you might as well just buy a new pedal since it's so cheap, but what they don't know is it's much more satisfying to disassemble and fix up an old pedal, no reason to throw something away which can be just like new with a bit of work :)
Thank you!! Saved me 30 bucks and a 30 minute trip
Thanks for this detailed instruction. When completely disassembling the pedals, I would always replace the bearings, especially if there is dirt or rust underneath the dust cap. New bearings are relatively inexpensive, and replacement will prevent wear on the cones and cupes. I am pretty sure the bearing diameter is 1/8 inch and not 3 mm.
Thank you for the comment and added information. Like you say it makes sense to change the bearings if one can.
A socket can be used to help extracting the cone if it is not seize by rust. Because the cone is never mean to be tightened but just fix the spindle in place to a non-wobble sitting. The washer is in place to separate the cone from spinning when you use the nut to tighten them.
Thank you for that info, helpful to know.
Thanks for the video. Hard to find reference to fix these old and cheap pedals.
Thank you for the comment and glad it helped.
Thanks! This was very helpful. It was virtually the exact same procedure on my pedals
Thank you for the comment and pleased to have helped.
One of my cheap pedals went all grindy, I didn't know they were serviceable but I didn't have a spare handy so I had a look on You Tube. It turns out the outer cone got so loose one of the bearings fell out, but the grease and dust cover caught it. It's back together now but I'll be bringing the tools on the first ride just in case.
Great video, cheers!
Well done. Hope the video helped
@@CoatsandGaiters Your video was perfect. Since it was the right pedal I could lay the bike down on the non-drive side and use it for the vise. 15 mm open end, 12 mm socket, screwdriver, long nose pliers, grease. US paraffin (kerosene) stinks so I used mineral spirits (paint thinner) for cleaning.
Everything is tight and smooth after the first ride. My main concern was the pedal would seize and unscrew itself while riding but that didn't happen and probably won't now.
Nothing was rusty or contaminated just loose, so I may be lazy and leave the left side alone, it isn't loose. If it ain't broke....
Extra tipp to not loose the bearings when replace: Push back the axle. Put in the hole. This way the balls are not able to fell in the pedal body.
Thank you for that info.
You really shouldn't be using magnets to hold ball bearings in place. It will magnetize them and make them act weird in the bearing grooves. It's not quite as bad for such a rough application as bike pedals are but still. It can also make them accumulate iron shavings on their surface, damaging them as they rotate.
Thank you for that information I didn’t consider.
@@CoatsandGaiters It's something I'm more used to consider when doing maintenance on CNC linear rails, which use similar ball bearings, but I think it can apply to all types of bearings.
@@EMILE12345678901 it’s a valid point like you say. You can see it would attract metal particles which would create a weakness. Appreciate your advice.
Cheers for that, smashing bit of info! Will apply to anything similar too like gears ect! So no magntising any rolling meshing mechanical part !
This was a fantastic tutorial. I used a wrench (spanner in your vernacular) opposite a socket instead of the vise. The pedals I just redid came out great! Thanks!
Thank you for that compliment. Hope it helped you.
Thankyou very much, helped me out a load!
Just a thought, with those plastic pedal bodies you could drill a hole in the center part where the shaft goes through to inject grease with a syringe so it would come out either side through the bearings to regrease them and expel some of the dirt. Then a screw into the hole you drilled to seal it up afterwards?
Thank you and that sounds like a good idea.
What your thinking about will not get all the dirt and contaminates out. It needs to be perfectly cleaned out because contaminates act as compound in the grease. Compound grinds and wears the bearings, bearing races, and cones out. Compound is gritty and acts like sand paper. You also want to completely disassemble and look at everything closely for wear, rust, separating parts, and cracks or cracking in the metal and plastic parts each time you regrease. Lastly, filling your pedals up with grease like your mentioning will add more weight to the bike.
@@jeffhayes2288 Thank you for the comment Jeff and your quite right. Some good advice there.
Overhauling pedals is completely unnecessary. Just take off the end cap, flush it out with wd40 or something, then pack grease into the end till it comes out the other side.
Thank you! Every video before this are for pedals that look like they are modern art 😂
Thank you for the comment.
@@CoatsandGaiters Life saver mate, now off to halfords for a 12mm socket before I round this nut any more! 😁
Good information, very good for old peddles that need repair. However, I have 16,000 miles on my peddles and have never needed to take them apart. Starting when new I pop off the dust cap and I pack them full of grease until it goes all the way through and comes out the threaded end. This method lasts for thousands of miles and keeps the water and dirt out. Messy, but worth it. No tools required. This does take some time to do. I use my thumb to squeeze the grease in. This dust cap can also be used to push the grease in. Doing it this way the balls never run dry and so never wear out, never need adjusting. Best to wrap the peddle with paper towel to keep it from getting grease on it, as this is messy to clean up after. I do this on all my peddles and have had very good luck with it.
Brilliant idea, that would keep water out pretty well. You cycle a lot then. 16,000 miles is a fair bit. Tell me that's not annual mileage!
@@CoatsandGaiters Thank you. This millage is since 2018, on this bike. I have other bikes but I ride the dual sport most of the time. I do most of my own repair work. I am retired, from Seattle Washington. I am now living in Manila, Philippines. Many of the roads I ride on get flooded during the monsoon season. I try not to ride my good bike in the floods but sometimes it can't be helped. So even more surprising how well the peddles have lasted by packing with grease.
Does filling the pedals like this with grease cause a weight increase?
@@jeffhayes2288 Not much, and more then makes up for that by easier, less friction. Keeping the water out is well worth it.
👍 I've wanted to do this for years, but DNH. You are super methodical and covered every detail including some hacks.
Thank you for the compliment and hope you have success with yours.
Good video I couldnt figure out the whole bolt washer bolt combo and this helped. Lost a couple bearings anyway but ill put fresh ones in next time.
I used a socket loose to tighten the bearing bolts by hand to get the perfect tension and my pedals are now silky smooth.
Great news and thank you for the compliment.
Thnx m8. I was able to service the cheap wellgo pedals that came on my 9 yo Trek DS. I had to carve into the plastic cover (and pedal body) with a knife since it had too many battle scars. But the innards were identical to what your pedals have.
That's good news. Thank you for the comment.
A different setup to my pedals, but this is a really well put together video, so I watched it all anyway to learn something 👍🏻
Thank you for the compliment.
Very nicely explained. Helped me reassemble a new pedal that had just fallen off.
That’s brilliant!!! Well done
Thank you! First time doing it and I did it like you did and it works like brand new!
Thank you for that. Really pleased I could help.
Thanks, the little tip on the 3 and 1 helped tighten it all up without the inner bearing cup moving as well.
That's good.
@@CoatsandGaitersVery nice tips. But I have one problem - on one of my pedals the lock nut and the cone nut are moving together. There is no washer in between them. It's just how both pedals were. And I'm the first owner. How I'm supposed to tighten it up. I even put the cone very loose and then the lock nut. When it reaches the cone there is a little presser and then they all spin as one, until they reach the bearings and crush them. I could probably change the lock nut, but not the cone. Or put a washer between them. Any ideas?
@@vehicle-stuff if you unwound the cone say 2 full turns and then started to lock it would it still get to the bearings before it locked? how about 4 turns away etc? surly it would bind and lock at some point and then gradually take it in bit by bit. Thread lock might help on the cone.
@@CoatsandGaiters I'm doing it from the beginning of the threads. And it still does not bind. Today is Sunday and I can't get a washer, but tomorrow will go to the tool store and get one to check. After that may be a new lock nut, or one with a rubber seal and some thread lock.
I would put a washer in the spot between the cone and nut because it seams that the nut isn't to be locked to the cone like nuts are locked to cones on the wheel axles. I would put a washer like your saying from a hardware store if on a budget. If you want to be sure your have the right washer in regards to specs in terms of metal grade, hardness, type of metal, etcetra, I'd go to a bike store. It's still cheap, maybe a few cents to a dollar more per washer at a bike store.
Thank you sir i just did that and my pedals now are so smooth i found alot of rusty grease in them and they were grinding and stiff
Thank you for the comment and great news. Smooth pedalling from now on. Maybe a bit faster as well lol
Very good, clear and focused video images. Skilfully made and presented. Thank you.
Thank you for the compliment David.
Those pedals aren't easy to overhaul . You made it look easy. Thank you
Thank you for that. Hope the video helps you.
Thank you for the how to video! I just bought a new set of pedals for my bike. They take some effort to turn, though, so I think they may have over-tightened them at the factory.
Thank you for the comment and hope it helps you.
I bought a used BMX for my kid and the pedals felt gritty and nasty. Decided to buy some new ones. New ones felt only a little better. Before I even watched this video, I backed off the lock nut on the old ones just a bit and suddenly the pedals felt great. Both sets were overtightened from the factory.
After watching this video, I've rebuilt the old pedals, they're buttery smooth now. I'll fix the new ones another day. Should've tried servicing these before buying new... live and learn.
@@BlueTrane2028 Love hearing great results like this. Happy cycling for your little one then.
Thanks for the vid i cleaned the insides of my metal pedals with full of dirt and scratches
Glad it helped and thank you for watching.
They get filled with dirt a lot. I will do what he recommends in the video which is filling the pedal up with grease just before putting the end cap on. It will stop a lot of dirt from getting in and reaching the bearings.
I have a pair of dartmoor cookie pedals, and on the right pedal the cone keeps tightening towards the bearings. I tight them enough so they don't have play, and also not over tightening them. What could it be? Lack of grease?
EDIT: I didn't put any thread lock. Should I?
At 14:02 I show the pinch nut and how I tightened it. Did you see this part? As it should work.
Yes, I've done that a few time and it keeps tightening. I also tried to tighten the cone against the nut, but it keeps happening. It's like as I'm pedaling the bearings tighten the cone
@@aguspege240 has something got swopped from the left to the right? wonder if they have left and right threaded nuts and they have accidentally got mixed up.
Before I assembly them I double checked the "L" or "R" on the axles and also the pedal position. I Didn't checked the cones, but they went smoothly over the threads.
@@aguspege240 Sometimes nuts can tighten by turning left instead of right. I will see if I can find anything out on it.
Excellent video. Thank you, this should help me with the pedals of my Folda bike.
Thank you for saying so and hope it helps you.
Also note on the end of the pedal, it says, ow for left.
On the end of the axle of this pedal, you'll see the letter R for the light.
Very true
Thanks much! This was exactly what I needed.😊👍
That’s great news. Hope it makes for better cycling when done.
Most excellent. Thanks very much indeed 👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Very helpful video. I had a question. The innards of the left pedal aren't reverse threaded like the rest of what is on the left side of the crank? It appears from the video that this isn't the case but I wanted to make sure. Thanks.
I can only recall the crank being reverse threaded.
Great video, going to give this a bash tomorrow
Good luck hope it works for you.
@@CoatsandGaiters cheers, I have the Halfords eco grease though as I have serviced some before
@@CoatsandGaiters I have some red onza double bear trap pedals they are great I love them 😍
@@michaeljameslawrence2965 Think I know the type with like a double outer grip.
@@CoatsandGaiters yes, like standard cage pedals but another cage, there was a onza patriot triple bear trap pedal but I could many thanks get hold of one in the United Kingdom 🇬🇧
Which grease should I use for the inside and the threads of pedals?
There are so many to choose from. I think any good quality grease is probably ok. Biggest issue is probably from an inferior grease washing out and away over time.
Very nice video and excellent explanation!! Congratulations!!👌
Thank you, hope it helped.
really good video !
i wonder, if i lost few bearings (on the right side of my right pedal) can i still regrease and lock it on place ?
btw, you forgot to grease the threads that goes into the crank, not a big deal but still..
Thank you for the positive comment Shaked Inbar. You might get away with a lost bearing but it might cause some extra wear on the other bearings.
@@CoatsandGaiters defently man, you deserve it. very very detailed and organized video !
make more to the bmx crowed !
I had a missing bearing in my front rim decades ago after I maintainence them. It make a loud clanking noise. I ignored it. The next day when doing maybe 20 miles per hour, the front rim locked up. I we.t over the handlebars and smashed my faced into the sidewalk and got permanent physical problems from it. I recommend you keep the bearing size, count, etcetra to the original specs.
Thanks
Hope it helped you.
3.17mm is 1/8" bearings
Thank you
Thank you it was very helpful
Great to hear and thank you.
Very helpful, thanks!
That’s good to hear. Thank you.
because left pedal has clockwise and the one has anti clockwise,
So, left pedal will not fit the right crank and the right pedal will not fit left crank, is it right😊
I'm a bit lost on that one. Don't you fit the left pedal on the left and the right on the right?
@@CoatsandGaitersby mistake could we interchange the pedal between left and right?
@@shijukk72 I don't think you can as it might unwind as you pedal and fall off.
What to do when one of the dust caps is lost and for that the pedal without the dust cap is getting hampered? I do not have the sophisticated sockets and the pedal holder at home. I only have spanners (10-15 mm) and allen keys (4 and 5mm) and some screw drivers for the reference. Kindly help me. Thank you in advance...
Not sure how to get around the socket issue short of borrowing one from a friend. You could possibly pack the end cap with grease to stop water getting in and maybe put some tape over the end or cut a disc from a plastic bottle and push it in to seal the area. Sorry I couldn't help much.
@@CoatsandGaiters no worries.... Thanks for the diy ideas but one thing I need to ask you, if I buy a socket wrench from a store, what is the standard size that is required for the flat pedals? Thanks again...
@@swarnendumunshi to remove the whole pedal you mean from the crank? That's 15mm 0:42
@@CoatsandGaiters no no....15 mm spanner/ wrench is required to remove the pedal from crank I know... I am asking that to disassemble the pedal (to separate the axle and the plastic pedal body what wrench size and/or type is required?
Hey sorry to bother you again but i had few more questions, since my luck nut got loose while riding iv'e lost all of one side ball bearings, they are 2.3 on my cheap calipers, does it mean its 2 mm? where can i find those bearings online?
since this mechanism is not the best engineering and that antislip washer doesn't really do its job do you recommend using loctite on it do avoid what I've got thru?
If it says 2.3 they will be 2.3. .3 is a measurable size on such a small item. I'd have thought they would be on ebay. If you had to you could damage the thread to effectively lock the nut on.
I read that bearings come in different kinds of metals and hardness. Places like amazon do not always give you the specs you think your getting. It's also flooded with products that are not as superior as others. Made by China and made in China for example. I would go to a bike store to be sure you get all that kind of stuff correct for an efficient and correct mechanical working system. It's still cheap like ebay. Actually I found tools cheaper at my local bike store due to no shipping charges with in person shopping.
Thanks for taking the time to make such a detailed, easy to follow video, it is much appreciated and of great help.
I just bought new flat pedals for my 2 bikes, a set of Tag T3s and a set of Race Face Chesters - What slightly concerns me is that both these sets of pedals are a little stiff; they don't spin freely on their axles. The do move round smoothly but you definitely couldn't spin them they way you do in your video. Is this normal for brand new pedals, would you say? I am assuming that once they have a bit of use they will loosen up at bit but would be interested to know what you think. Many thanks!
Thank you for the compliment. Smooth is the key I think. As long as they are smooth to rotate and not binding that's good. Spinning too freely isn't great as it means the bearings aren't making any contact with the axle so it's trying to find that happy balance. Smooth is good.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks so much. You've put my mind at ease! Thanks again for your video. Keep 'em coming!
@@FlowerdyPilllow thank you
Make sure the pedals spin as free as possible without any wobble in the axle. with what your describing, they may be over tightened, causing the cones to push too hard on the bearings which in turn push hard on the bearing races. This results in too much friction, even with new grease in them. This kind of situation results to wear.
@@jeffhayes2288 Thanks Jeff. That helps👍
My impact 12mm got the cone nut loose. Tightened it manually though.
Well done, hope the video helped.
U need a keyed washer. It stops the cone from spinning.
I just used what they supplied.
So, both spindles are threaded standard on the outboard end? Is the left one reverse threaded or standard (lefty loosey)? It seems like you are turning both left to loosen, but I’m not certain. Thank you!
I think they are both standard threads on the end as they just lock with the little nut. It's just getting it to lock in just the right spot so as not to pinch or be too loose.
At least these pedals have ball bearings at both ends. Some pedals either have none or only at one end.
They must be quite interesting!! Are they on childrens bikes ?
@@CoatsandGaiters Actually, no. The ones I saw are Amazon 'knock offs" of original mountain bike brands (meaning, more than one brand copy). I was disappointed, but glad I found out before buying.
Nice detailed content 👏👏
Thank you Akshat
Nice video 🎉 well done
Thank you
Thanks, helped a lot.
That’s good news
At 4:12, how to remove the washer if it's completely gripped ? It didn't budge at all even with a flat screwdriver and a plier. Thanks
Have you tried pulling on the spindle from the crank side?
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks for the response, i will try
I serviced my pedals 2 weeks after.the other pedals got loosen and the other got tigthen. What should i do? Thanks for your tutorial nice vid btw
Thank you for the compliment Xcup. Sounds like you need to tinker with getting the locknut just right. It does take a few goes to get the position just right so when you tighten that locknut it locks properly but doesn't seize the pedals movement. In the video it takes me a few attempts to get things just right. Trial and error a bit.
Great video thank you my wellgo go well again😆👍✌💚
Thank you and great news
i did the same but after i use my pedals it goes thighten or loosen , should i use loctite ?
It can be really tricky and frustrating. Don't forget if you used locktite you'd have to wait for it to fully set otherwise it might still come undone or tighten more. I know the feeling though I considered it as well lol.
@@CoatsandGaiters after i servised my pedals i used medium strength loctite now im waiting i thing this time i made it 😁
@@sedona741 best of luck
Can you tell me what degreaser/cleaner you used in the video? Sorry my English isn't up to speed yet so can't tell what you said it was :(
Thanks for the video btw! Really helped when I cracked open my seized VP pedals, now they work flawlessly again.
Thank you for the compliment. I have added a link to the Gunk I use in the description for you. amzn.to/3x9NzWG
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks man, much appreciated!
I used paint thinner for the first time recently on the same Park Tool grease used in this video. It works excellent.
Best video.
Thank you for that. I did try my best.
@@CoatsandGaiters my pedals have never felt so free, you rock, thanks.
my flats have round axle where ya putting spanner not got flat side on them any clue how to remove them as can not get allen key to work seems seized up good
Luke Morgan sorry but I’m not quite understanding.
@@CoatsandGaiters the axle is round where it attached to crank arm it dose not have any flat edges between pedle and crank arm for spanners to grip but new ones have flat edges on axle so trying to get old ones off to fit new ones but due to the round axle i can not seem to get them off crank arms
its where you showed how to position the spanner that area where axle goes in to pedle mine are round no flat spots for spanner like most have
@@e-bike-bys-vykken7422 not secured with an allen key head on the other side are they? or is crank and pedal all one piece I wonder.
Thanks 👍😊
Hope it helped you.
great video
Thank you for saying so.
Thanks for this vid, so can the cone nut be just finger tight?
thanks
Thank you. Yes it normally just touching so it takes up any movement but not enough to pinch the bearings.
@@CoatsandGaiters Thanks for the swift reply - I'll reconstruct my pedals tomorrow ;-)
THANK YOU SO MUCH
Hope it helped you
Even After i done this procedured, there is creaking noise on omy left pedel still continues
Sorry to hear that. Maybe the plastic housing has worn out.
I have one questions, what is the size stell balls freehub use
I think the bearings can be any size the manufacture decides so I couldn’t say.
what can i do if my pedal wont come off? i tried heating the crank with alcohol but thats does not seem to help.
Just check your turning the right way as they are tightened back to front. ruclips.net/video/DbewyKM_BmE/видео.html
@@CoatsandGaiters i did it the way you did and still no luck
@@CoatsandGaiters tomorrow i will try to take it of with a pipe extension on the wrench
@@crxxpslvyr7887 how odd I can’t understand that. Must undo one way or the other
Should you tighten the cone all the way through?
Only enough to take up sideways movement. Needs to be tight but not pinching or crushing the bearings.
@@CoatsandGaiters thank you!
hello everyone i need some help a few days ago i serviced my pedals but after riding for test one of my pedals hardened and the other one softhened . should i use locktite ?
Did you resolve in the end?
Thanks! I did exact the same. I noticed one thing that when you test this you have to do it with on the bike and with force to really test it out. I got some mechanical sound so I have to take it apart again. Also one side was empty with ball-bearings so I have to count them on the other side. I got it to 14 but when I watched a little closer I saw it was room for another or?. Does anybody know if there should be more? Should you leave room like 2-3mm as a gap between them from the nr 1 through tha last one? One more Q. A new paddle can rotate like forever it seems but when you do this/ou service it doesnt.
Was it not 13 bearings each end?
Maybe different pedals have different bearings counts. All pedals might not have the same bearing count. I don't know, I could be wrong. When I've done lots of wheel, crank, and pedal bearings, I've always seen a gap like another bearing could be squeezed in. I wouldn't squeeze or put another bearing in. Best to check with the manufacturer for the bearing count requirement.
my stock pedals dont even have a lockbolt just a smooth end spindle
wonder if the nut is the other end by the crank.
@@CoatsandGaiters $150 bike. buying quality replacements is 1/7 the value of the whole bike lol
i tried everything, pressing the smooth end with a rubber ended rod to lock it in place and turning both ways but the pedal looseness stays the same. I also tried hammering one end to try and push the threaded end and smooth end together and that didn't work.
Factories are pinching nuts to save pennies making my pedals literally unserviceable. Pretty much planned obsolescence when taking cost to replace into account.
@@pyroromancer Sorry to hear this, how about cleaning the thread and inside of the nut and using thread lock and leaving overnight? or araldite.
Why would you take the pedal apart?? Just take off the end cap, flush it with whatever de-greaser, and push grease in until it comes out the other end.
I guess that's one way. Never thought of that.
@@CoatsandGaiters Try it.
@jamesconroy7030 how are you going to get grease into the bearings in the threaded end lol and even if you could get the grease past the first lot of bearings, why would you waste all that grease filling up the centre of the pedal. Do the job right and take it apart. Its not hard anyway.
@@dalj4362 You fill the outer end, and mash it in with your hand (or use a grease gun). It comes out the other side pretty quickly. There's not much space between the axle, and the body of the pedal. There's maybe 2 tablespoons of grease "wasted".
@@jamesconroy7030 No lol Silly idea. Seriously have you seen the tiny gap to get the grease through? Bet the pedals wouldn't spin nice either being packed full of grease.
Nice clips. I would just buy a new one.
Probably easier than all the trouble but on a kids bike it can make a bit of sense sometimes as they are often of little monetary value.
@@CoatsandGaiters agreed. 👍
Hi. May i ask what is the bearing size?
Really sorry but I don’t have the pedals anymore to measure.
@@CoatsandGaiters ok thanks. God bless
The pedals that you have are like 5 dollars a pair. I will just get a new one instead
This is very true. They were very basic but sometimes it can be quicker to repair than wait for new to arrive.
And send more plastic to landfill when you don't have to.
Ya engrase y ajuste y aún hacen ruido
Have you slightly overtightened the nut? if so loosen it a touch.
Thanks
nvkulk hope it helped.