I recently had a friend who is blind ask me about printing her dice that are in braille. Stumbling upon your video today was quite an unexpected happenstance.
I started with custom dice few months ago. I had to redesign the body and print the faces separate. So far so good. Just wished i could print the whole thing in one go
I think printing slightly oversized with slightly deeper numbers and spending some time sanding can result in a perfect master. Probably going to be my next dice video, finishing one to perfection!
@@Nash_Idaho for me it's been a few months of trail and error (2k) printer. But finally did my first batch of 50 dices custom. Now I want to create molds for the bodies so I can just print the faces . Even paid a designer $100 for this. And in my country that's a hell lot of money 🇿🇦
Do you think the 18x24um Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra will be comparable in use to your Mars for this? I just preordered one for dice inserts + minis not even *thinking* about printing my own masters. Your channel has been a lovely discovery, thank you!
Hey, nice tips! Have you encountered warping problems printing d6's? I've seen a lot of tutorials on printing master dice and no one tackles this specific issue.
just make sure all the faces are at 45 degree angles to the build plate and that you have good supports and d6s should print well. Honestly they aren’t the ones I have problems with it’s d10s that always fail for me!
I just tried to print a second set, because the first one has failed, with a lot of puffyness on the bottom , but the second result is worse! I also used dicemaker for automatic supports AND made supports by myself , but every dice failed! What causes the puffy finish at the bottom? I use clear abs like sunlu resin, 0.03mm high per layer, 2 seconds for normal layer and I even tried to delay the lift movement with 2 seconds to be sure that resin is not moving to fast, but nothing changed... Any idea to fix this and get clear results?
I’ve added more supports on the bottom facing sides and also made the numbers slightly deeper, the combination reduces the puffy bottom sides and allows for a little extra sanding to remove any imperfections, it also only seems to happen on d20s for me.. also slightly bigger d20s seem to print better
So im curious i can get a used mars 3 is that good enough? Or should i get a used mars 4 for i think it was 140ish Other comments are also scaring me if people sell 3d printed resin masters but i cant cast them then do i use inhibitX or am i just screwed
Creating a silicone mold of resin prints requires you to clean the print, I’ve heard that if you put the print in a clear container and clean water then uv cure it for a half hour then replace the water and do it again that is all you need to do, but I haven’t tried myself. As far as the printer a mars 3 is just great! I’d probably use that until they come out with a mars 5 then upgrade then
Since the goal is cool esthetics I think all these are clear failures. The next thing to try in my opinion is to split the model and print all the sides on the top.
Yeah possibly but difficult you’d have to zig zag cut a d20… Dice are hard to print, but the last one I think would have been just fine with a little more support and the numbers inset a little deeper so each side could be polished perfect before molding, also these where 24.5mm which is normal size but I feel the trend is slightly larger sizes which will print a lot better actually, I will probably follow up on this and try your idea in the future!
@@Nash_Idaho The zig zag cut would be a pain, unless support for it could be added to dicemaker. I was actually proposing splitting right through the sides, the result might be offensive but maybe it'll be fine.
it will be the perfect d20 for rolling in those life or death situations, as in if you are in the path of that thing you are going to die! lol truly the danger and excitement of 3d printing dice is real.
How do you ensure the weight is balanced correctly? If dice are too light, they don't feel proper and can skew the RNG bell curve of the rolling matrix.
For the most part I think people are using these to make a mold of to cast so at this point balance isn’t a huge concern, some people do balance their resin cast dice by carefully sanding on different faces but for RPG play it doesn’t really matter like it might at a casino… In fact I have a mass produced di that likes to roll 18s and that is one of my most cherished dice to use while dungeon mastering…
@@Nash_Idaho Maybe I'm just an older GM who appreciates actual random generation from my dice. Thank you for the reply. I hope a solution can be found one day.
There is a fairly often cited paper (which I admit I have not read) which gave good and bad news for 3d printing dice. The good was they found that almost any attempt to produce a 'fair' die would be about as reliable as any other. The bad news was that is because they all as bad as each other unless you go to casino levels of effort. If your chessex dice are fair enough for you, then 3d printed dice are fine. If you want genuine* randomness, use a computer *yes, usually this is random seeded pseudorandom sequences, however a normal dice roller app will give you sequences which are statistically indistinguishable from true random for the number of rolls you are ever going to ask of it.
I made 2 dozen d12's. I tracked each dice for 250 rolls and recorded the data. Working the statistics of actual vs. expected results, there was no bias for these dice. I mean 250 rolls isn't a massive set for a single dice, but for 24 individual D12 x 250 times was a very tedious task over the weekend.
The problem is that you cant realy make master dice for casting using resin because something in the resin reacts with most silicones and hinders them from curing. So sadly there is not realy a point of printing dice with resin. On their own they look ugly, u dont realy want to paint them because when used paint would most likely rub off and u cant realy use them for casting.
Yeah but like a ton of people have made silicone molds from things 3d printed in resin… most without doing anything special but if you wanted to and were using platinum based silicones, they may require you to really clean the resin masters and there are also some other things you can coat the masters in to help if you had issues.
@@Nash_Idaho yeah that's true, but it's still a lot of effort and most coating methods are quite expensive. In my opinion you can better masters with a regular printer, even though i like resin printing way better.
So are you telling me that every dice master i can buy from etsy isnt going to work? I dont understand why there are so many people selling 3d printed resin masters then
@@DetroitMetroRetro no, there are plenty of good sellers out there that fully cure and polish their masters, keep in mind that you should spend a considerable amount of time to make your master perfect before molding. So going through the hour long curing process or just letting the resin de-gas for a while before molding doesn't really seem unreasonable...
I was skeptical till the mount Everest joke. Now I'm sold. This dude is legit AF.
I recently had a friend who is blind ask me about printing her dice that are in braille. Stumbling upon your video today was quite an unexpected happenstance.
It actually would be pretty easy to do! Check out my video on dice maker for how to add custom numbers or braille in your case to dice!
Nice to see a fellow spud with a helpful channel that is filled with my own interests. You ROCK. Hugs from the wilds of the northern tip.
I’m actually not from Idaho! but am Minnesotan I feel though we are kindred spirits! (My name comes from Dune)
0:52 😊😊 1:12 1:46 @@Nash_Idaho
I started with custom dice few months ago. I had to redesign the body and print the faces separate. So far so good. Just wished i could print the whole thing in one go
I think printing slightly oversized with slightly deeper numbers and spending some time sanding can result in a perfect master. Probably going to be my next dice video, finishing one to perfection!
@@Nash_Idaho for me it's been a few months of trail and error (2k) printer. But finally did my first batch of 50 dices custom. Now I want to create molds for the bodies so I can just print the faces . Even paid a designer $100 for this. And in my country that's a hell lot of money 🇿🇦
Could you do a video with an example for D6s. Everytime I try printing them they come out warped no matter what I do.
I think the key is making sure you add extra support around the numbers and that the d6 is tilted 45 degrees so it's oriented like a diamond 💎
Do you think the 18x24um Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra will be comparable in use to your Mars for this? I just preordered one for dice inserts + minis not even *thinking* about printing my own masters. Your channel has been a lovely discovery, thank you!
Yeah I think you probably couldn't tell the difference by eye between the prints
Hey, nice tips! Have you encountered warping problems printing d6's? I've seen a lot of tutorials on printing master dice and no one tackles this specific issue.
just make sure all the faces are at 45 degree angles to the build plate and that you have good supports and d6s should print well. Honestly they aren’t the ones I have problems with it’s d10s that always fail for me!
you should keep of the supports, clean all the die properly and the cure them... athat avoid puffisness. Cheers from Argentina
Cones of calibration are my favorite!
they are truly lifechanging!
I just tried to print a second set, because the first one has failed, with a lot of puffyness on the bottom , but the second result is worse! I also used dicemaker for automatic supports AND made supports by myself , but every dice failed! What causes the puffy finish at the bottom? I use clear abs like sunlu resin, 0.03mm high per layer, 2 seconds for normal layer and I even tried to delay the lift movement with 2 seconds to be sure that resin is not moving to fast, but nothing changed... Any idea to fix this and get clear results?
I’ve added more supports on the bottom facing sides and also made the numbers slightly deeper, the combination reduces the puffy bottom sides and allows for a little extra sanding to remove any imperfections, it also only seems to happen on d20s for me.. also slightly bigger d20s seem to print better
So im curious i can get a used mars 3 is that good enough? Or should i get a used mars 4 for i think it was 140ish
Other comments are also scaring me if people sell 3d printed resin masters but i cant cast them then do i use inhibitX or am i just screwed
Creating a silicone mold of resin prints requires you to clean the print, I’ve heard that if you put the print in a clear container and clean water then uv cure it for a half hour then replace the water and do it again that is all you need to do, but I haven’t tried myself. As far as the printer a mars 3 is just great! I’d probably use that until they come out with a mars 5 then upgrade then
Was expecting "Nashional Geographic" covers there.
Ok that is a good idea for the name of an rpg zine
Since the goal is cool esthetics I think all these are clear failures. The next thing to try in my opinion is to split the model and print all the sides on the top.
Yeah possibly but difficult you’d have to zig zag cut a d20… Dice are hard to print, but the last one I think would have been just fine with a little more support and the numbers inset a little deeper so each side could be polished perfect before molding, also these where 24.5mm which is normal size but I feel the trend is slightly larger sizes which will print a lot better actually, I will probably follow up on this and try your idea in the future!
@@Nash_Idaho The zig zag cut would be a pain, unless support for it could be added to dicemaker.
I was actually proposing splitting right through the sides, the result might be offensive but maybe it'll be fine.
@@brocktechnology it would be easy in blender, cutting through the faces might work great or be completely impossible I really don’t know!
I find filleting or beveling the hard-lines works the best for resin printing dices. Also precision support placement is a big factor as well.
*currently working on making a 360mm x 360mm x 360mm D20
it will be the perfect d20 for rolling in those life or death situations, as in if you are in the path of that thing you are going to die! lol truly the danger and excitement of 3d printing dice is real.
How do you ensure the weight is balanced correctly? If dice are too light, they don't feel proper and can skew the RNG bell curve of the rolling matrix.
For the most part I think people are using these to make a mold of to cast so at this point balance isn’t a huge concern, some people do balance their resin cast dice by carefully sanding on different faces but for RPG play it doesn’t really matter like it might at a casino… In fact I have a mass produced di that likes to roll 18s and that is one of my most cherished dice to use while dungeon mastering…
@@Nash_Idaho
Maybe I'm just an older GM who appreciates actual random generation from my dice. Thank you for the reply. I hope a solution can be found one day.
There is a fairly often cited paper (which I admit I have not read) which gave good and bad news for 3d printing dice.
The good was they found that almost any attempt to produce a 'fair' die would be about as reliable as any other.
The bad news was that is because they all as bad as each other unless you go to casino levels of effort.
If your chessex dice are fair enough for you, then 3d printed dice are fine. If you want genuine* randomness, use a computer
*yes, usually this is random seeded pseudorandom sequences, however a normal dice roller app will give you sequences which are statistically indistinguishable from true random for the number of rolls you are ever going to ask of it.
Printing them solid usually works just fine on balancing. Most people just print and make a molds from them to make cast dice.
I made 2 dozen d12's. I tracked each dice for 250 rolls and recorded the data. Working the statistics of actual vs. expected results, there was no bias for these dice. I mean 250 rolls isn't a massive set for a single dice, but for 24 individual D12 x 250 times was a very tedious task over the weekend.
The problem is that you cant realy make master dice for casting using resin because something in the resin reacts with most silicones and hinders them from curing.
So sadly there is not realy a point of printing dice with resin. On their own they look ugly, u dont realy want to paint them because when used paint would most likely rub off and u cant realy use them for casting.
Yeah but like a ton of people have made silicone molds from things 3d printed in resin… most without doing anything special but if you wanted to and were using platinum based silicones, they may require you to really clean the resin masters and there are also some other things you can coat the masters in to help if you had issues.
@@Nash_Idaho yeah that's true, but it's still a lot of effort and most coating methods are quite expensive.
In my opinion you can better masters with a regular printer, even though i like resin printing way better.
So are you telling me that every dice master i can buy from etsy isnt going to work?
I dont understand why there are so many people selling 3d printed resin masters then
@@DetroitMetroRetro no, there are plenty of good sellers out there that fully cure and polish their masters, keep in mind that you should spend a considerable amount of time to make your master perfect before molding. So going through the hour long curing process or just letting the resin de-gas for a while before molding doesn't really seem unreasonable...
There is a product named Inhibit X that is supposed to stop the sla resin / silicon reaction.
What kind of danger!? Can it explode on impact...😬😂
Since I started I’ve been attacked by ninjas, involved in 3 hang glider accidents and I’ve had to fight a shark, so just the usual…