This is so interesting and to be honest, it's not the cheapest but it definitely isn't the most expensive hobby once you're set up. A really good investment 👍
I just bought the traditional kaya cast last month and im happy with it, i have been doing a lot of test with ramps and stuff so im in experiment mode now, but i will sure look forward in the next years to try that, just hope the price wouldnt be that expensive for that time
8:04 I think the inspection hole actually is aligned as intended. Now I'll admit I don't know anything about these casting machines, but I think the Oil is intended to be inspected from standing position. Thus the hole placement higher, meaning you can quickly just look down and see "yep there's oil in there".
No matter what I say or what I show, the sheer surprise at how quickly it pulls is guaranteed to surprise you. No more rushing with the investment for me 😁
Great review. I really enjoyed your well thought out commentary and how you highlighted the parts of the kit that are truly important on a daily basis. Your comments on the mis-alignment of the oil level window as well as the air filtration units are justified. For that kind of money, I would like easy items like these (low hanging fruit, if you will) to be sorted out at the factory. Also true, is the fact that these do not negatively impact form/fit/functionality. The capacity of the vacuum pump is impressive @ 8cuft. Do you know what kind of warranty there is on the pump, specifically? Nevertheless, thank you for your review. I do hope the manufacturer acknowledges how well you present their products. A Kaya Cast XL is a fair trade for an honest review such as yours. Cheers.
It's cool to see the overlap of dental fabrication and your jewel casting. The only real question is, was that vegetable oil that you poured into the Kaya XL?
Well, thank you, but as I don't sell any castings I'm certainly not a professional. I'm pleased with where I am and I'd call myself and experienced amateur these days, but I still think I've got a lot to learn. One of the things that does bother me is the large number of people who call themselves "Pro" when they know nothing. They then make crazy claims and show terrible techniques, and this leads other people to follow that approach... creating a chain of misguided folks doing things badly. So I prefer to be honest... I'm an amateur doing the best job I can. There are thousands who are better, that's obvious, and I'm always willing to listen to them - and pass on that advice. 😁
@@vogman Oh, I thought you did commissions; must have been one of the other RUclipsrs I watch. But, yes, I hate when people bandy the word “pro” about, like when I objected to a coworker who was texting while he gave me a ride and he said he was a pro at texting. “I don’t care if you get paid to text. I would rather not die.” Cheers to you, my friend.
This might not be very relevant to this video, but I have a question. I was researching desktop injection molding, and it seems that the only documented way to make very detailed aluminum molds is to use a CNC mill capable of detail comparable to what a resin printer can do with resin pieces. Do you think a system such as the one you showed in this video, with castable resin and all, could be used to produce parts with a good enough dimensional accuracy to be used as molds?
Even at twice the price it’s hard to beat the value. Putting a system like this together from scratch would have a much larger footprint and likely not come close to ease of use and quality.
So what are the flask sizes this thing can capacitate? Do you think this would work for doing large pieces, like the length of a sriracha bottle? Seems like its still a little too small
Hello, i have a question. I would Like to order this Machine for hobby. It should shipp to Germany. I have read that i have to have the business to be Abel to buy it. Do you know can i order it? There is no machine Like Kaya cast in Germany.
Great video as usual! I bought the original Kaya cast from your video about that, and now want/need the size of the XL bell jar, cheeky but if I buy just the bell jar for the XL is there any way it’d fit the original? The dimensions make me think it might juuuuuuust fit on the investment plate?
@@vogman They said no. 😂 "The lip of the bell jar that is used on the Kaya XL measures 12.75”. The width of the table on the Kaya Cast unit measures 11”. The bell jar would not fit onto the table enough to secure a vacuum." - I'm going to cut an acrylic riser to pop under the existing bell jar. Fingers crossed it doesn't implode 🤞
I have purchased the Kaya Cast XL and accidentally turned it off before releasing the vacuum (investment table). can you advise on what I should do now? do i need to take the whole thing apart? can't believe i did this, i feel like an absolute idiot.
I think we've all done this at some point. I believe the release is to prevent the vacuum pulling oil from the device. It will probably be okay. Check the oil levels. As long as there's no nasty smells like something burned out, personally I'd be tempted to try it and see. However, the best thing to do is contact Arbe Tools and seek their advice 😁
Amazing video content and editing as usual. Hello friend, I bought the standard version of this machine from arbe a while ago and I am very happy. I have a couple of questions related to your video. if the same piece and sprue system is used in both machine... The more suction power from the XL version means "better detail/fewer casting defects"? Was that medallion printed hollow or solid? I usually print my models with a wall thickness of 0.7mm because I have read that it is not a good idea to make thick solid models with Siraya Tech cast resin. and in some pieces I have had problems with large hollow parts. I think it is due to the first vacuum to remove bubbles. I believe the piece were broken/impressed by the pressure of the vacuum machine and the investment go inside the hollow piece Thank you so much from Spain !
Hi Miguel. I guess it could be argued that the power of the XL is really about speed. It pulls on the molten metal much faster, moving it into place before it can set. I don't know this for sure, but it does make sense I suppose 😁 The medallion was solid, 6mm thick in the centre. I print on a height of 0.03 which I've read cures quicker and more thoroughly than 0.05, because ST Cast must be fully cured. I also leave thick items, like this medallion, for a good hour of UV curing. I think I'd always be worried that hollow prints were still wet inside... but if I expect UVs to penetrate my 6mm print, then I should also expect it could penetrate a hollow print. In short my friend, both arguments sound good. I guess there's nothing for it but to try both and see which gives the best results. 😁👍👍👍
Awesome video just as my current vacuum table is giving up the ghost. Would you please review some investment powders? I'm having a lot of trouble transitioning to casting wax resin. I'm getting really poor surface quality in my casts and the investment powder is the last thing I haven't changed.
It's a very difficult thing to review as the cost of these powders is quite high and often obtaining them in different regions is impossible. Where are you based?
@@vogman I'm based in Canada. Currently I'm working with Plasticast. Before that I used Satin Cast 20 for many years. But Satin Cast gives terrible results with wax resins. BTW, at this point I pretty much have your Siraya tech and Liqcreate videos memorized. LOL
So that's you and me that are watching those videos then 🤣😂🤣 I have used Prestige Optima with great success. I know that's available in the US via Pepetools... pepetools.com/products/certus-investment-powder-prestige-optima-49lb-bag I've also heard great things about www.ransom-randolph.com/plasticast though I don't think it's available on this side of the pond... maybe it is in yours...?
@@vogman Thanks for the links! I just used them to order the optima. I've ordered it before from other vendors but none have been able to deliver. Hopefully pepetools will be able to. Plasticast is available on this side of the pond. It is what I was hoping to transition to, but with no luck so far.
well I have two vacuum machines. one is made in Israel and the other is Kaya. the Israeli one has a week vacuum But it has a builtin vibrating device something the Kaya doesn't have and I have found out the shaking is a must or I'll have small bubbles on my metal. I also don't have the xl so the oil gauge is on the side and I see me having so much trouble replacing the oil in the further. I don't understand why the oil tap isn't on the side so it's easy just to empty the machine from oil. I guess I'll have to bring friends to help....
Sounds like a solid piece of kit. So is there a particular reason that in the thumbnail there’s KAKA rather KAYA on the machine itself? It doesn’t sound like a poop type device 🤔🤷♂️🤣
Tthe XL is also $1000 more (US price). Easier for a beginner to start on the cheaper machine. I am working on getting a "kit" together, including burn out kiln and so on-- my plan is to do jewelry as a side gig, and hopefully make a decent portion of my income with it. To me that is not "amateur" it is more like "cottage industry."
This is a big machine for someone doing plenty of casting and I agree, not really ideal for someone starting out. When I first began metal casting I made a lot of my own equipment. This video should give you insight into that ruclips.net/video/-TutObDbxUo/видео.html
Why not design the casting side so that the flask sits inside it and just below the rim , then you cast and slide over a cover to seal it... this would eliminate gaskets that wear out...
Two point three bloody grand... that's a massive issue for that bit of metal mate, it's ludicrousy greedy and overpriced. I'd rather build my own tools, which i have :P lol Be nice if you did some more videos on making your own stuff instead of getting wallets stolen for simple tasks ;) hint hint
I didn't get paid anything for reviewing this excellent machine, and I won't get any commissions, referral fees, etc. It's strictly my opinion on what is a very good piece of equipment, and the video was requested by several viewers. So please, don't think of me as one of those sponsored channels, because I'm not. I'll be honest, if I hadn't been lucky enough to be given this item, I wouldn't be able to afford it, so I am naturally sympathetic to those, like me, that need to stretch their money further than it will go. I have in the past done videos on home-made casting equipment, including a vacuum system ruclips.net/video/EGNnH_xbjR4/видео.html Is it as good as the real thing? Obviously not. Does it work? Yes... it got me started and I hope it's helped a lot of others. Because I've already done these DIY builds, I've assumed folks don't need me to make more. I certainly could revisit these old plans and find an alternative / updated approach. And I assure you, if I get requests from my viewers to do that, I will. 😁😁😁
![DANGERS of resin printing [this is not a joke]](/img/1.gif)
Another knock-out, well thought out, amazingly produced video by the legend himself! Thank you VogMan for everything you do for the community!
Much appreciated!
This is so interesting and to be honest, it's not the cheapest but it definitely isn't the most expensive hobby once you're set up. A really good investment 👍
True enough Tony. All hobbies start off like that I think 😁
@@vogman Yep. Unfortunately I have rather a large synth collection. I have far too many hobbies
Long Live Vogman! I wish I could get into casting. Just to many other hobbies.
Thanks Mark. It's fun, but like all hobbies, it's expensive! 😁😁😁
I just bought the traditional kaya cast last month and im happy with it, i have been doing a lot of test with ramps and stuff so im in experiment mode now, but i will sure look forward in the next years to try that, just hope the price wouldnt be that expensive for that time
Unless your production level increases, be happy with the original. It's served me well. But yes, as a future toy, it's a nice one to keep in mind 😁
8:04 I think the inspection hole actually is aligned as intended. Now I'll admit I don't know anything about these casting machines, but I think the Oil is intended to be inspected from standing position. Thus the hole placement higher, meaning you can quickly just look down and see "yep there's oil in there".
It could be... be please remember, I was trying very hard to find faults there 😁
Dang! I'm still floored with the original kaya-cast's capabilities. I might have to start thinking about saving up.
No matter what I say or what I show, the sheer surprise at how quickly it pulls is guaranteed to surprise you. No more rushing with the investment for me 😁
I'd love if more complex tool makers went this route, making things easily viewable, usable and replaceable. Aesthetics be damned!
Absolutely. A lot of thought has clearly gone into this upgrade.
I wish they'd include a vibrating investment table for that price. I've fitted one to my original Kaya cast and upgraded the vac pump.
I'm not absolutely sure it's necessary... but you could always touch an orbital sander against the edge of the plate. That would vibrate it 😁
Great review. I really enjoyed your well thought out commentary and how you highlighted the parts of the kit that are truly important on a daily basis. Your comments on the mis-alignment of the oil level window as well as the air filtration units are justified. For that kind of money, I would like easy items like these (low hanging fruit, if you will) to be sorted out at the factory. Also true, is the fact that these do not negatively impact form/fit/functionality. The capacity of the vacuum pump is impressive @ 8cuft. Do you know what kind of warranty there is on the pump, specifically? Nevertheless, thank you for your review. I do hope the manufacturer acknowledges how well you present their products. A Kaya Cast XL is a fair trade for an honest review such as yours. Cheers.
It's cool to see the overlap of dental fabrication and your jewel casting. The only real question is, was that vegetable oil that you poured into the Kaya XL?
Don't tell everyone! They'll all want some!
😉😁🤣👍
You are NOT an amateur! You make pretty good coin doing this, and rightfully so. But modesty in this day and age is a virtues when it’s not overdone.😊
Well, thank you, but as I don't sell any castings I'm certainly not a professional. I'm pleased with where I am and I'd call myself and experienced amateur these days, but I still think I've got a lot to learn.
One of the things that does bother me is the large number of people who call themselves "Pro" when they know nothing. They then make crazy claims and show terrible techniques, and this leads other people to follow that approach... creating a chain of misguided folks doing things badly.
So I prefer to be honest... I'm an amateur doing the best job I can. There are thousands who are better, that's obvious, and I'm always willing to listen to them - and pass on that advice. 😁
@@vogman Oh, I thought you did commissions; must have been one of the other RUclipsrs I watch. But, yes, I hate when people bandy the word “pro” about, like when I objected to a coworker who was texting while he gave me a ride and he said he was a pro at texting. “I don’t care if you get paid to text. I would rather not die.” Cheers to you, my friend.
This would be nice for making small lost wax brass parts for model kits.
Easily cope with those, yes 😁
This might not be very relevant to this video, but I have a question.
I was researching desktop injection molding, and it seems that the only documented way to make very detailed aluminum molds is to use a CNC mill capable of detail comparable to what a resin printer can do with resin pieces.
Do you think a system such as the one you showed in this video, with castable resin and all, could be used to produce parts with a good enough dimensional accuracy to be used as molds?
Even at twice the price it’s hard to beat the value. Putting a system like this together from scratch would have a much larger footprint and likely not come close to ease of use and quality.
Yo Vogman. Thanks from Vietnam
Thank you so much for the review. Which investment material are you using?
Hi, i have a new set from friend, but dont know what is the main use for this item, can you please explain to me?
What furnace are you using ?
Great review as always VOG. How do you think this would work for metals like iron and gold?
Hi Svaar. I've no doubt it could cope. I already know people using the original with gold, though iron is something I haven't personally tried.
Hey Mate. How long is the flask on this unit??? Could it cast 7”x1”x2” piece of metal?
So what are the flask sizes this thing can capacitate? Do you think this would work for doing large pieces, like the length of a sriracha bottle? Seems like its still a little too small
I dont understand how this works. You take the 3d print make a mold . So the 3d plastic melts when you pour the aluminum in.?
Hello, i have a question. I would Like to order this Machine for hobby. It should shipp to Germany. I have read that i have to have the business to be Abel to buy it. Do you know can i order it? There is no machine Like Kaya cast in Germany.
Great video as usual! I bought the original Kaya cast from your video about that, and now want/need the size of the XL bell jar, cheeky but if I buy just the bell jar for the XL is there any way it’d fit the original? The dimensions make me think it might juuuuuuust fit on the investment plate?
I'll be honest Matthew, I'm not really sure. You're beter off asking Arbe 😁
@@vogman They said no. 😂 "The lip of the bell jar that is used on the Kaya XL measures 12.75”. The width of the table on the Kaya Cast unit measures 11”. The bell jar would not fit onto the table enough to secure a vacuum." - I'm going to cut an acrylic riser to pop under the existing bell jar. Fingers crossed it doesn't implode 🤞
I have purchased the Kaya Cast XL and accidentally turned it off before releasing the vacuum (investment table). can you advise on what I should do now? do i need to take the whole thing apart? can't believe i did this, i feel like an absolute idiot.
I think we've all done this at some point. I believe the release is to prevent the vacuum pulling oil from the device. It will probably be okay. Check the oil levels. As long as there's no nasty smells like something burned out, personally I'd be tempted to try it and see. However, the best thing to do is contact Arbe Tools and seek their advice 😁
Hallo..
I like watching it, hoping that in the future we can share experiences with each other in the same way.
thanks vogman.
Amazing video content and editing as usual. Hello friend, I bought the standard version of this machine from arbe a while ago and I am very happy. I have a couple of questions related to your video.
if the same piece and sprue system is used in both machine... The more suction power from the XL version means "better detail/fewer casting defects"?
Was that medallion printed hollow or solid? I usually print my models with a wall thickness of 0.7mm because I have read that it is not a good idea to make thick solid models with Siraya Tech cast resin. and in some pieces I have had problems with large hollow parts. I think it is due to the first vacuum to remove bubbles. I believe the piece were broken/impressed by the pressure of the vacuum machine and the investment go inside the hollow piece
Thank you so much from Spain !
Hi Miguel. I guess it could be argued that the power of the XL is really about speed. It pulls on the molten metal much faster, moving it into place before it can set. I don't know this for sure, but it does make sense I suppose 😁
The medallion was solid, 6mm thick in the centre. I print on a height of 0.03 which I've read cures quicker and more thoroughly than 0.05, because ST Cast must be fully cured. I also leave thick items, like this medallion, for a good hour of UV curing.
I think I'd always be worried that hollow prints were still wet inside... but if I expect UVs to penetrate my 6mm print, then I should also expect it could penetrate a hollow print.
In short my friend, both arguments sound good. I guess there's nothing for it but to try both and see which gives the best results. 😁👍👍👍
@@vogman Thank you very much for your detailed answer. You are the best! Thanks again!
Awesome video just as my current vacuum table is giving up the ghost. Would you please review some investment powders? I'm having a lot of trouble transitioning to casting wax resin. I'm getting really poor surface quality in my casts and the investment powder is the last thing I haven't changed.
It's a very difficult thing to review as the cost of these powders is quite high and often obtaining them in different regions is impossible. Where are you based?
@@vogman I'm based in Canada. Currently I'm working with Plasticast. Before that I used Satin Cast 20 for many years. But Satin Cast gives terrible results with wax resins. BTW, at this point I pretty much have your Siraya tech and Liqcreate videos memorized. LOL
So that's you and me that are watching those videos then 🤣😂🤣
I have used Prestige Optima with great success. I know that's available in the US via Pepetools...
pepetools.com/products/certus-investment-powder-prestige-optima-49lb-bag
I've also heard great things about www.ransom-randolph.com/plasticast though I don't think it's available on this side of the pond... maybe it is in yours...?
@@vogman Thanks for the links! I just used them to order the optima. I've ordered it before from other vendors but none have been able to deliver. Hopefully pepetools will be able to. Plasticast is available on this side of the pond. It is what I was hoping to transition to, but with no luck so far.
well I have two vacuum machines. one is made in Israel and the other is Kaya. the Israeli one has a week vacuum But it has a builtin vibrating device something the Kaya doesn't have and I have found out the shaking is a must or I'll have small bubbles on my metal. I also don't have the xl so the oil gauge is on the side and I see me having so much trouble replacing the oil in the further. I don't understand why the oil tap isn't on the side so it's easy just to empty the machine from oil. I guess I'll have to bring friends to help....
Interesting... I've not come across vibrating like this.
@@vogman I tried without and with. With is an old school way
Sounds like a solid piece of kit. So is there a particular reason that in the thumbnail there’s KAKA rather KAYA on the machine itself? It doesn’t sound like a poop type device 🤔🤷♂️🤣
What an arsehole I am!!!! Thank you for spotting that. Prize pillock of the week award goes to VogMan 🤣😂🤣
@@vogman and there was me thinking I missed some subtle hint in the video 🤷♂️🤣
how much price please
I have one for € 700
Tthe XL is also $1000 more (US price). Easier for a beginner to start on the cheaper machine. I am working on getting a "kit" together, including burn out kiln and so on-- my plan is to do jewelry as a side gig, and hopefully make a decent portion of my income with it. To me that is not "amateur" it is more like "cottage industry."
This is a big machine for someone doing plenty of casting and I agree, not really ideal for someone starting out. When I first began metal casting I made a lot of my own equipment. This video should give you insight into that ruclips.net/video/-TutObDbxUo/видео.html
Why not design the casting side so that the flask sits inside it and just below the rim , then you cast and slide over a cover to seal it... this would eliminate gaskets that wear out...
I could not get the Basic Kaya Cast under 1200 Euro plus Shiping and Taxes. I think after reviews, the Machines get more expensive
Where about in the world are you my friend? We can always ask Arbe where your nearest retailer is. That may save you a little.
@@vogman germany
Cool
😁😁😁
Dats so big!!!
It is!!!
Let me see you degas water with it?
bit.ly/3me6eAC Pepetools show a boiling water demo here
Two point three bloody grand... that's a massive issue for that bit of metal mate, it's ludicrousy greedy and overpriced.
I'd rather build my own tools, which i have :P lol
Be nice if you did some more videos on making your own stuff instead of getting wallets stolen for simple tasks ;) hint hint
I didn't get paid anything for reviewing this excellent machine, and I won't get any commissions, referral fees, etc. It's strictly my opinion on what is a very good piece of equipment, and the video was requested by several viewers. So please, don't think of me as one of those sponsored channels, because I'm not.
I'll be honest, if I hadn't been lucky enough to be given this item, I wouldn't be able to afford it, so I am naturally sympathetic to those, like me, that need to stretch their money further than it will go.
I have in the past done videos on home-made casting equipment, including a vacuum system ruclips.net/video/EGNnH_xbjR4/видео.html
Is it as good as the real thing? Obviously not. Does it work? Yes... it got me started and I hope it's helped a lot of others.
Because I've already done these DIY builds, I've assumed folks don't need me to make more. I certainly could revisit these old plans and find an alternative / updated approach. And I assure you, if I get requests from my viewers to do that, I will. 😁😁😁
Jeah who cares... it cost only 2k.... 😅
heh, but who cares got me.
😁😁😁