Very impressive, sounds loud af, is that the fans? .... stupid question: at this point wouldn't it be better to just use an air compressor with a one of those hoses used in CNC routers?
Short answer, no. The charge air needs to be warm to not over-cool/shock the print. It's really just playing to make these speed videos. This one was for dry filament test.. and I just wanted to print something FAST to show the difference. In reality, to get strong prints you need to be right on the edge of proper cooling so it has a better chance to meld. Those good, functional, prints need to be slower speed with much less fan to get some good adhesion.
you need to do some tuning if that takes you an hour. my qidi xone 2 i got for free and fixed up does one of those in 16 minutes. an ender 3 should have no problem doing a calibration cube in under 20 minutes.
Just bump the speed to 120 %., maybe layer height 25, cooling to 85%, replace the plastic with alu gear extrusion and there you go.. People sich with stock speed 50, which is really slow
@silverify this is awful advice. Cooling for pla should always be 100%. The extruder upgrade you mentioned is worthless for speed. A cheapo dual gear extruder is plenty for an ender and is cheaper than the creality ones. Layer hight should be able to stay at .2 as well. And these speeds shouldn't even need mods, the stock printing profiles even should be plenty
linear rail + const force spring + belted z is so cursed but makes so much sense. just impressive! also is this made for high temp materials? saw the insulation you got and wondering if you are printing those a suggestion would be getting some stainless/titanium backers for your xy gantry since a stainless rail rigidly screwed to alumnium plate are about as close to a bimetal strip as you would get (usually printing abs with a alumnium extrusion doesn't matter that much but plates are easier to bend and it seems like you want to push high chamber temp.
Baby steps! Alu was easy for me to source to make tests. This is a Frankenstein/test bed. When I get the real one done I will take all the good from this, toss the bad, and start new discoveries. Machine is running 65C chamber from bed heat. Could use a little more, but seems to be OK. I have not explored other materials that need more and most likely won't for this machine.
This type printer is a crossed gantry. It stems from Ultimaker in it's design, but with linear rails vs rods and more motors. There is a newer printer, that is self built or can be bought as a kit, known as the Annex K2 or K3. There is also the CroXY. They are all similar kinematics. This type system is harder to build but has very good rigidity with high torsional stability.
I have no clue why YT recommended this video to me but I'm glad! That's an impressive printer you got here!
Very impressive!
I'd like to see the filament during this.
Very impressive, sounds loud af, is that the fans? .... stupid question: at this point wouldn't it be better to just use an air compressor with a one of those hoses used in CNC routers?
Short answer, no. The charge air needs to be warm to not over-cool/shock the print. It's really just playing to make these speed videos. This one was for dry filament test.. and I just wanted to print something FAST to show the difference. In reality, to get strong prints you need to be right on the edge of proper cooling so it has a better chance to meld. Those good, functional, prints need to be slower speed with much less fan to get some good adhesion.
Gawd dayum
Amazing printer. Thatd take me over an hour to print on my ender 3
you need to do some tuning if that takes you an hour. my qidi xone 2 i got for free and fixed up does one of those in 16 minutes. an ender 3 should have no problem doing a calibration cube in under 20 minutes.
Just bump the speed to 120 %., maybe layer height 25, cooling to 85%, replace the plastic with alu gear extrusion and there you go.. People sich with stock speed 50, which is really slow
@silverify this is awful advice. Cooling for pla should always be 100%. The extruder upgrade you mentioned is worthless for speed. A cheapo dual gear extruder is plenty for an ender and is cheaper than the creality ones. Layer hight should be able to stay at .2 as well. And these speeds shouldn't even need mods, the stock printing profiles even should be plenty
@@silverify true, i have my anycubic mega x running at close to 120 sometimes but usually more like 70-90. The recommended is 50 or 60
linear rail + const force spring + belted z is so cursed but makes so much sense. just impressive!
also is this made for high temp materials? saw the insulation you got and wondering if you are printing those
a suggestion would be getting some stainless/titanium backers for your xy gantry since a stainless rail rigidly screwed to alumnium plate are about as close to a bimetal strip as you would get (usually printing abs with a alumnium extrusion doesn't matter that much but plates are easier to bend and it seems like you want to push high chamber temp.
Baby steps! Alu was easy for me to source to make tests. This is a Frankenstein/test bed. When I get the real one done I will take all the good from this, toss the bad, and start new discoveries. Machine is running 65C chamber from bed heat. Could use a little more, but seems to be OK. I have not explored other materials that need more and most likely won't for this machine.
What is this for a printer and how can i get one ?
This type printer is a crossed gantry. It stems from Ultimaker in it's design, but with linear rails vs rods and more motors. There is a newer printer, that is self built or can be bought as a kit, known as the Annex K2 or K3. There is also the CroXY. They are all similar kinematics. This type system is harder to build but has very good rigidity with high torsional stability.
what's the actual flow rate..?
Variable? Ranges from 28-60.
@@MrRocksalt Mine starts failing above 18 mm/3
This is a power tool.
😳