Avoiding Common PC Building Traps - Episode 6
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2019
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More things to look out for when building your PC - minus the Ewoks.
Power Supply Calculators
Seasonic - lmg.gg/seasoniccalculator
OuterVision - lmg.gg/outervision
MSI - lmg.gg/msicalculator
be quiet! - lmg.gg/bequeitcalculator
Techquickie Merch Store: www.lttstore.com
Follow: / linustech
Leave a reply with your requests for future episodes, or tweet them here: / jmart604 
Наука
Power Supply Calculators
:
Seasonic - lmg.gg/seasoniccalculator
OuterVision - lmg.gg/outervision
MSI - lmg.gg/msicalculator
be quiet! - lmg.gg/bequeitcalculator
Good job, all amateur PC builders should know about PSU calculators.
Too bad Gamers Nexus hasn't yet started publishing PSU reviews with all the in depth details. There's a lot more to a power supply than what's written on the big stickers on power supplies.
Oh... Well after all thats still a good start
its a trap !!!
Hello! LTT PSU Tier List writer here. All of these listed above are VERY inaccurate, except for the be quiet one. Be sure to use that one! Also, check out the PSU Tier List on the LinusTechTips forum! It'll help you with your PC building.
I hate to do this... But im putting a program in this comment section...
When you buy a 144 hz screen and play with 60 hz because you didn't change the settings. Yup there's people that did it
Tru that
GGX ON TWITCH
@Tarik El-Badry That's what I was talking about, thanks
Greek smh
@Tarik El-Badry Oh, you already posted that
The monitor thing you mentioned... also applies to RAM. Make sure you have set your ram to whatever it is certified for, or it will just run at whatever standard it follows (usually 2.3k)
@Adolf Hitler in BIOS. google it. I did it once and never touched it since so i kinda forgot.
@Adolf Hitler glad to be of help.
"watercooling is better"
*Laughs in Noctua*
This comment will have thousands of likes so i will take my place here...
Me too
I literally went from watercooling back to Noctua air cooling, and saw about the same temps for less noise and headache.
@@CarDusanGospodarSveta heey nice to meet ya
@@57F.K :D
This actually helped me! My monitor was at default 60htz even though it's advertised as 144, thank you!
@Tarik El-Badry I'm sorry, what?
Pepega Clap
James: You don't need more than 500W
My Vega 64: I have crushed your 700W PSU puny mortal
Same but a 56 and only a 550
@H H thanks
RTX 30 series: Amatures...
RTX 4090 is here and now even 1000 watt seems low...
I love how my monitors are always found as generic PnP monitors, even finding the drivers online sometimes. and these are name brand monitors too a Samsung and Acer
Lmao I have a friend who bought a new fancy 160 hrz monitor without realizing he had 60 hrz on default he didn't change it until 4 months after
What a plot twist... damn
AAH! THE GOOD OL JAMES IS BACK WITH SOME NEW TECH NEWS..
Holy hell! i just watched all of these and another one came out
Also dont buy a 500w Power supply If your calculation goes Like to 480w. Powersupplies Work Most efficient when between 40% to 60% load.
so you need a 1000w supply then dumas that was the whole point of the video 600w is enough
@@_yuri 600w with a good rating, not some cheap ass PSU
The efficiency is constant and doesn't depend on the power consumption but the quality of the transistors and other components of the PSU.
@@onenaghi That is completely false. Go read the wiki for the 80PLUS certification, and look at some spec sheets for power supplies.
@@nomadben You're right, sorry. Load is a factor in efficiency.
Also important: Make sure the heatsink of your CPU cooler you choose doesn't cover up the RAM slots if you want to use more than 2 RAM Sticks. I've had this problem before and only realized it when I actually build the PC.
Wow, I didn't realize there were deadly traps inside my pc. I'm glad I didn't lose a finger, or get poisoned/electrocuted during my last build.
Tip #1, finish it asap. Don't be like me, "Oh I'll touch that up later". That was three years ago and things been my main rig since. Never had the side panel screwed back on, cable management or even adjusted fan speeds in the bios. Its had the same too short SATA cables since 2015. Don't be like me, don't procrastinate.
And yes, One screw is enough for an optical or hard drive. Does it work? Yes, it does. Do I recommend it? Well do you like DSKCHK?
Hey do you think I would be able to build a PC with no experience at 15?
A Somali guy Sure. Everyone has to start somewhere.
@@da14a49 Hell yeah, just look up some reference material online and have fun. Don't put too much overthought into it, start simple and move up.
There's no question for you to ask that someone hasn't already answered with a Google search.
Walk into a microcenter with cash. Walk out with your desired build. Often they will give you a free upgrade or "check the back" for a "better GPU" just let them know you are building a rig and what you want, specifically. Be an educated consumer.
it's*, chkdsk*
I never hear about the M.2 speed trap.
Not all motherboard support PCI X4 for your M.2 resulting in a very slow M.2 running it at SATA speed.
Or the fact that one might not need NVMe speeds at all! If you're just gaming, SATA SSDs will be nearly as fast as an NVMe (off by a few seconds) when loading games. Only when you need to move large files constantly that the NVMe drives make sense.
If you just want an M.2 drive to get clean cables, get one that has SATA protocols, and not NVMe!
That's why need to read the information about the motherboard you want to buy.My mobo asrock b450m pro4 had 2 m.2,one of it use x4 pcie and another using sata 3.0 and it using sata line no 3 (sata slot has 4 slots).
@@nevmiku most of the time yes, many exceptions though. NVMe takes minutes off of GTA 5 loading times, and im sure there are more examples, NVMe isn't that amazing, but with the ever enlarging sizing of games, it will be valuable eventually.
I literally watched the whole rest of this series just today.
I have the force!
No we have to wait 32 years for episode 7.
Step one...
Don't hire the VERGE
But they did a decent job imho
HOW NOT TO BUILD A GAMING PC
Why are people still meming this dead meme is the pcmr really that normie
*Where are my tweezers?*
SHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEIT
best comment
On power supplies: they only really reach peak efficiency at 50% capacity. So there is a reason to over buy in this instance. Even if it is a tiny one.
At most it's 1-2%. Not really worth it for most people, considering you have to spend more up front. With a single rail power supply, it also makes the supply less safe, too.
And try to use a Vega 64 an a 500 watt psu with no undervolting
@@aaron8280 I've actually run a 8700K and a Vega 64 on a 550 with no undervolting, so yes, that will work. It'll even work on a 450 with slight undervolting and the i7 overclocked.
linus and friends deserve so much more from you tube. Keep up the good work and i love all the great content
LTT: You don't need a high wattage power suppl.
Me: *laughs in modded Vega 56*
I got a Corsair 900D thinking I was going to do water cooling and then in the end I never ended up doing water cooling and was stuck with a gigantic case taking up a bunch of space and paying more for a case than what I actually needed. The next build I want to go either Mini-ITX, Mini-DTX, or try to go with something like an ATX Mid Tower at the most since im not a fan of watercooling.
We need more from this series. Especially how to properly configure the UEFI/BIOS.
Went with water cooling cause I bought into the hype. Didn’t overclock for almost 2 years. Finally decided to do some basic OC and really don’t notice the difference. i7 7700k
more of these please!
FINALLY A NEW EPISODE!
Screw low wattage PSUs. Go for a high-wattage PSU with "eco" or "hybrid" mode, so that the PSU's fan doesn't even have to spin up and add to your PC's noise.
Also, power supplies are usually most efficient when driven to around 50% power load. This means less overall power draw, less heat output, AND greater longevity. It's a trap NOT to get a high wattage power supply.
A lot of the time higher wattage semi fanless PSUs are louder than lower wattage quiet PSUs lol. Plus, efficiency different is at most usually 2%, which outweighs the upfront cost of the extra wattage. Also, with a single rail PSU, the extra wattage makes the unit less safe. Considering you can run a overclocked i7 8700K and Vega 64 on a quality 450W unit, there's not much reason to get a high wattage PSU.
Fan splitters also help with the "not enough headers" problem as well, usually.
Awesome Video!!!!Awesome Creation!!!!
Water-cooling isn't better than air if you got a big boi from noctua
Custom water loops are better than even the NH-D15.
However the NH-D15 is better than basically any AIO.
THANK YOU. The water cooling propaganda needs to stop. The D15 performs as well as a double rad AIO, while costing less, making less noise and not dying in 3 years. Custom loops are better of course, but not worth the fuss for almost everyone.
@@blacktommer3543 not really, these 360mm aio can be crappy OR silent as better, depends
@@Lambretta_G depends on the case most cases that domt have good airflow AIo are superior and more quiet. Overclocking once again water wins. People act as if air is superior it's not. It rarely wins and usually has more drawbacks anyways. Water has a higher thermal dissipation compared to air just naturally. Spending a ton for a high end air cooler is usually trivial compared to aios. Yeah they can preform the same if you have a good airflow case with some other drawbacks but that's how it is. Stick with stock air coolers for most builds anyways. No need to get fancy for good cooling it's more of a looks thing then anything.
@@yulfine1688 LTT did a video where some noctua coolers were half the price, and outperformed the AIO's (abliet marginally) in both thermals AND noise. I forget if they included a overclock there, but it's mostly a moot point. I usually get a 212 evo. My i5 760 Oc'd from 2.8 to 3.8, and didn't go above 60-65 during any normal load (70-80 under synthetic bench's), on all cores. Similar story with my 4690k, 3.5 up to 4.7 all cores, with a new 212 evo.
You say water has higher thermal dissipation compared to air, and this is true, but the heat's going to have to go back to air at some point. The benefit isn't that water dissipates heat better then air, it's that it has much higher thermal capacity, and you can move the rad to a position more conducive to fitting a very large cooler.
you don't need watercooling to OC, and in all likeliness it's going to grant you a marginally better OC, if anything at all. Most of us though can't tell the difference between 4.7ghz and 4.9ghz though (a 4-5% increase). If your building something cutting edge, it sort of makes sense, your already well past any value point, so spending a bit more for another marginal increase in power isn't a big deal. It falls apart from a practical standpoint on anything else though. There's no reason to spend 2-4x more on a cooling solution that will increase performance by a couple percent, unless you just want it, or like the looks or whatever.
Watching this with the 400W 3090 around the corner. 1000W power supplies are back on the menu my boys.
Even the 3080 is rated at 320W. Funny how this was uploaded one year ago and now it’s pretty much dated.
Suggestion: USB slots are not all equal. Your cheap case/motherboard with X USB ports may not work with newer periferals if they're using older USB standards.
Common pc building trap, building an atx case and motherboard.
Matx is far cheaper, smaller, and still has enough pci slots for any sane person.
spider0804 unless you’re trying to do a high end build. There aren’t very many choices for mATX boards when only considering premium components. X570 appears to only have one offering from ASRock for example.
Not even close and you get better air flow with bigger mobos
@@dubious6718 Airflow mostly depends on the case and fans... you could argue that an mATX board has better cooling potential because it has fewer components than an ATX board.
@@dubious6718 ever see the video on Linus tech tips where they stuffed a computer with clothes and it didn't affect thermals much at all.
@@dubious6718 That would only be true if mATX was more cramped than ATX--which it's not. The spacing is the same, it's just that ATX has another 2 inches of PCIe slots at the bottom of the board. Everything else is more or less the same, including airflow since the spacing of components does not change.
And again some SilentiumPC case on the miniature :)
I think one thing that never gets mentioned about PSUs is their efficiency curve. Most PSUs are at their highest efficiency around 50% load, which is where they achieve a specific 80 Plus rating. If you were to buy a 500W PSU to power a 400W system, you would probably be using more power from the wall than if you were to use a PSU closer to 800W. The extra cost of the wattage may be enough to negate any savings on your electric bill, but it will also be quieter and dump less heat into your room, which is especially nice if you live in a hot climate.
The other thing about less heat for power supplies is that those electronics inside the power supply have lifespans that represent power curves as a function of the operating temperature. A 105C rated capacitor might last 5000 hours at the rated 105C, but could last 160000 hours at 55C. By producing less heat in the power supply, the electronics are less prone to breaking and since the lifespan derating curve is rather dramatic, you should be able to get a lot more life out of your PSU simply by working it less hard.
The fan header tip was legit the best
Is an rtx 2080 ti enough to run most triple A games at 160+ FPS 1440p
Some, prob not most
That's kinda a lot to expect in this day.
You probably won't find a monitor like that either.
You’ll have an amazing gaming experience either way. But if you need those ridiculous numbers the. Yeah if you pit it on mid settings
The Parrot ik but I can find one with g-sync 144 I just don’t want it to drop under 144hz and I decided on a 2080 super and I only really care about view distance
@@rayquantum6677 play with all other settings off other than your competitive settings, yeah you might get 160++ ez (like in MW/Overwatch) but you won't be able to reach those if you don't have an equally good CPU to supply info to the GPU, 16gb ram more than 2000mhz
I was just having fun watching the older ones, and then this comes as a notification
Building my pc tommorow can't wait, thanks for all the tips and tricks and shits and giggles. Thanks
Learning some good lessons from this
Plz do more of these.
very helpful tips for a newbie like me, thanks!
"you see, because components today are a lot more power efficient than they were even a decade ago. . ."
_Radeon VIIs wailing in the distance_
While “review” for me, I LOVE this series! Plz make more!!!!!
I mean... you can overclock just fine with a beefy air cooler, Noctua's high end air coolers, like the NH-D15, are competitive with liquid cooling solutions at the same pricepoint.
according to LTT themselves, they are actually marginally better then AIO's.
I'm with you though, tech guys seem to keep implying that you should watercool if you overclock. In reality though, I heavily overclock my cpu's on cheapo hyper 212's. I don't go for max numbers, but even with this cheap cooler I can easily get 80-90% of the OC that a AIO would.
tested all the power supply calculators here is the results
System:
CPU: 2600x
GPU:sapphire pulse vega 56
RAM: 2x8GB 3200 DDR4
Storage: NVME M.2 500GB
Fans: 2x140mm, 1x120mm, and 1 amd wraith spire
calculator results:
seasonic: 1060 W minimum
MSI: 326 W
bequiet: 384 W with overclocking 338 W without overclocking
outer vision: 578 W with overclocking
Real world: my PC never draws more than 400 W measured from the wall I have a 650 W evga g2 80+ gold so that's 360 W but don't go that low buy 50 watts more than what you need just to have that peace of mind
recommended: outer vision calculator.
Did the seasonic calculator really recommend at least 1060w? That's plain ridiculous!
I mean yeah the Vega 56 is a bit hungry, but who actually _needs_ a 1000+ PSU? That's some SLI Titan RTX kind of deal.
@@paulelderson934 yup my thoughts exactly some random poor guy is gonna use it and get a less than optimal specs for his money because he allocated too much money on the power supply
You can also use a 2-1 splitter for fans, usually a motherboard fan header can run more than 1 fan.
Some more tips:
For monitor use displayport cables not hdmi.
Make sure you have long enough cables.
Dont extend usb over troughput specific lengths.
No IDE ripping any more, but still, dont bend cables to death.
Modular PSU benefits with leaving out a cable or two vs just ziptie up the leftover.
If you first start your machine, dont plug all usb stuff into it, just the most necessary to avoid issues.
Make sure gpu height and length are ok with your case. Tall cards exists.
Try to keep your vga and audio cables far from other cables and electronics to avoid interferences.
Dont spare the extra 2 fans by lazyness, add those to your case.
Built a brand new rig in January.
components:
Meshify C (2 factory fans) + 140mm Noctua - quiet
B450 MSI gaming pro carbon ac
ryzen 2600x (stock cooler) - quiet
EVGA 1060 6GB SSC - quiet
Corsair CX650M - FAN IS LOUD (not AF, however it's the only thing I hear over everything)
So yeah, even those PSUs that are not the cheapest suck in this regard.
If this whole LTT thing doesnt work out, James seems like he can easily work for SpaceX
Also, PCPartPicker tracks voltage as you build/shop.
How accurate the PC Partpicker one is is questionable, I usually get 100w less on PCPP than on Outervision PSU calculator.
Wow, the hype is back. Star Wars hype is back. Imma binge the original trilogy right now.
Can't wait for episode IX
jar jar was the best character from the original trilogy
I still get nostalgic about the dude
Oh how innocent we were, a 500W PSU in the before times. Now the 3080 sucks back 300W by itself.
Requirements: 395 - 456 watts
Have: 850 watts.
I did go a little overboard, I did plan to do a new build tho...
Power supplies are usually most efficient at around 50% power output. Not to mention that your PSU probably doesn't even have to spin its noisy fan at such a low output. It's worth the extra wattage and cost!
@@CaveyMoth Thank you, I was actually thinking the same thing... The less of it's capacity I use, The longer it would last too...
Everyone says it's bad to have an underpowered power supply, but I'd like to see an actual demonstration of what happens.
PS calculator recommended 850 W for my Threadripper 2 setup. I went with a 1000 W that Best Buy had on sale so guess I'm good. Liquid cooled the CPU so it will run quiet. Wicked fast.
Figured I'd check this video before commenting on a tip I thought of watching ep.5. Linus mentioned m.2 drives not all being nvme, however he didn't mention that some m.2 slots on the motherboard may only support one type of m.2 drive! Usually this will be on motherboards with 2+ slots, where one of them may only support one type of the drive, but the other will support any.
From experience helping another guy with a faulty boot, AIO cooling can be plugged into the wrong pin header resulting in a pump running uneven speeds, triggering overheating, or the pump to die, leaving the AIO as just a very fancy water bottle.
On the same system a faulty PSU ended up damaging the Motherboard, and my mistake was to focus on the overheating cpu issue, resulting in the death of the motherboard, the lesson is that if you have an issue with power, always make sure your PSU is discharged, if it is faulty and down discharge or you dont have ground plugged into the PSU from the wall, any capacitors in the the PSU can discharge to the components reorienting components, which can cause lasting damage, as the only ground connection is you, your own fingers can cause shorts that will carry the discharge, even if it is small enough that you dont feel it, it can still pass through more delicate components. Safest thing to do is simply to use a ground pin on the psu, power down the system turn off the PSU on the back, then disconnect it from the socket in the wall and ground yourself. Although not common to get static shock issues, these are the kind of trouble shoots that leads to multiple component troubleshooting, which is much more difficult to diagnose, and can leave you barking up the wrong tree for a very long time!
I'd suggest adding 20% to the basic power calculation. The PSU will last longer if it is not operated on the limit. Check if calculator you use does this for you. Also bear in mind possible expansion or additions, especially an extra GPU. BobUK.
I need all the power I can get so I bought and hooked up 6 1200 watt power supplies. I spliced them all together to make sure I had enough power to start my PC and my heart if I need a heart jump if I pass out. The only bad thing is that my hair always stands on end whenever I step in the room and the power company thinks I'm providing power to half of my town. lol
Case fan power splitters are a good thing. Especially on smaller boards.
You can actually plug many Fans with an Y-Adapter in a single Port. 3,4 or even 6 Fans and more are no problem.
But you should only do this with Fan's that should run the exact same speed (Fans on a Radiator, Airflow Fans in your case etc.)
"Be surprised how little we really need"? I still can't accept that there are people with single graphics card who buy more than 500 or 600W. I mean like literally an electric hot plate (without the oven) is something between 600 and 800W.
PC Ventilators were my huge concern.
Until,while seeking silence friendly casing,I stumbled upon casing with 3 supposedly silent ventilators.
Now, I have nothing to compare it to,but it got me what I wanted.
I can barely hear anything.
Well most of the time anyways.
Sometimes it can get a bit louder true,likely a CPU stock cooler,but still not loud enough to be heard outside of my room.
Even during night.
Which is exactly what I wanted.
I also got Seasonic power supply.
S12II Silent 12CM Fan Series 620 80+ Bronze 620W.
Old,but reliable model...or so I heard.
So far so good.
Flaws?
It's not modular.
Love how you're rocking that SpaceX shirt!
Can you guys do a video on how to setup a high fan count PC with a fan controller?
I got a 1200W Phanteks Revolt in my new system (that's waiting on a Ryzen 9 3900X) because I was gonna stuff a 2nd system in my Evolv X, but I got a 240mm radiator on top that blocks that idea. So I just got a high wattage PSU for one system now.
Also, DO NOT skimp out on the monitor cables. Don't buy that cheap chinese displayport because you save 10 dollars on it. I had an issue where my computer was literally shorted out and boot looped by my monitor because the faulty cable was conducting electricity on a pin it wasn't supposed to.
You need to be careful when buying m.2 ssds and make sure that the key of the m.2 fits the socket on the motherboard. I've seen B, M and B+M keys so far but don't know if there are more...
Back in 2017 when I bought my PSU, I wanted one that could provide for two graphics cards and there was a large shortage. So the 1200W I have now was the same price as the 800W I was planning to get. A 600W wasn't available anyway.
I want to do Hardline just because it looks awesome
Why the hell where the only 3 fan options the motherboard, power supply, or manual control? A standard mid tower with a push pull 360, your looking at an easy 10 fans *at least*, you can't do that with a mobo. Why not just recommend a few splitters?
I tried running an AIO with an fx-8300 and Vega 64 (progressive upgrade). The 750W was insufficient and after moving the Vega to an old 500W PSU and the system booted. I've since upgraded my PSU.
with the lower power supply thing you should say that its fine unless you really want to push overclocks
Do one on what eye saver mode is on monitors
you can actually use a fan spiltter to plug 2 or even 3 fan from only 1 fan header
Can you then control them separately though?
4 fans is the recommended maximum for a single fan connector. (Around 1 amp maximum in power throughput). The fans will be synchronized together according to the "duty cycle" set to the header. Basically, it thinks only 1 fan is connected..so all of your fans act the same.
dang...i just ran such a tool....when got a high to mid tier PC was runable with a 500w supply?
I made a huge mistake that would be good for others to know about. If you ever replace your power supply, DO NOT be lazy and keep the cables from your old power supply! They are not standardized and could destroy your components. I personally busted my two harddrives and dvd player. Lyckely i was able to recover my data by phyically changing the hdds pcb and SOLDERING off the rom chip on the old to the new pcb. NOT something you want to have to do!
You got lucky it only killed the PCB.
I've had drive failures due to power supplies and it killed something inside, assuming the mechanism that drives the reading head.
Csõsz Ferenc Ferdinánd Did it sound bad or what do you mean by damaging something on the inside? I have a hard time seeing how wrong power could cause the heads to fail. Did you try replacimg the pcb properly? (Doing rom transfer?)
@@CrazyMineCuber I took it to a hardware repair shop which said they did hard drive repairs and they said that replacing the PCB and the chip on it didn't make it start up
Should've also mentioned the differences between the different MoBo sizes.
Is it time for Linux Subsystem on Windows 10 Explained yet?
Just get the real thing and stop asking people to explain it to you. (Bad linux humor)
Wow, watching this in 2023 with the Nvidia 4090 is wild.
What about all of those episodes talking about how close air and aio are?
A more powerful PSU can mean mean a quieter system if it offers passive cooling until a certain % of load though. Just to keep it in mind.
Water cooling isn't different from a good copper air cooler .. linus debunked that on a video a few weeks ago.
Well the video released a few weeks ago...
The copper air coolers have a bit of liquid in it. Grab a coolermaster (for example) chasis and get 80mm and 120mm fans. Establish GOOD AIR FLOW. 120mm exhausts on top. A 120mm intake on side. X2 80mm intake in front to feed that copper cooler (fan facing front should intake, fand opposiite of metal plates should exhaust out the back.) and a 120mm exhaust on back. 120mm use less power. For GPU's 2 80mm are great at handling spikes in heat (more rpm) but that draws more load as well. just be aggresive with your curve. And use your monitor software
My friend bought a 1080ti, but he doesn't know how to do it properly and he thought only connecting it to the power supply and nothing more. How do I convince him to connect it to his motherboard.
Depends, I over spec' the PSU because
1/ It will run in it's most efficient operating range.
2/ It will be quieter as it doesn't need to spin the cooling fan up to keep cool, as one operating towards the top of it's rating will do.
3/ If i should add addition components I don't need to worry about the current draw.
4/ Some lower power PSUs have fewer auxiliary power options.
However, as you suggest, some aren't concerned with all that and a reputable PSU running close to spec' power rating should do what they want.
NOTE, many years ago I needed a cheapo case for an emergency build (case ghadn't arrived) and it came with a cheapo Chinese PSU that was rated as xxxW - but on examination that was the TOTAL, including 3.3V, 5V, etc. outputs and the 'true' 12V power was a LOT less...
1 - if cost aint issue - buy biggest Wattage.
you don't wanna buy another one if you might get idea to upgrade your rig in the future.
don't make my mistake.
i was gifted another 1Tb HDD and i can't even use it cuz power supply was bought specifically for the original components and lacking a bit extra.
2 - water-cooling is not just the aestetics. on average liquid cooling is way quieter than fans that do the same job.
and no - basic fans dont cut it by themselves if you are living in the hotter regions of our planet. so vid's opinion is well bias.
3 - just let them blow at max RPMs.
and ye - that's probably why one might wanna buy a power supply with spare wattage.
electricity is cheap, unless you are living in US.
4 - okay. that's fair. most people do skip installing monitor driver's even.
Running a samsung monitor from 2009, it doesn't even have an hdmi port on it but it still is great
amen to water cooling.. slapped a noctua air cooler on my threadripper, it hits 75C max with a package power of 270W :D
1:00 to 1:07..OR overclocking. Add an extra 200 watts for that to be in the safe and comfy zone.
I just bought some case fans, and the screws don’t fit in the holes for my case it’s weird. They are the correct size and the holes line up.
Case fans have really thicc screws, man. Hmm. Is your case old or what?
This video has techlinked vibe
These days all major psu manufacturers have 750W psu's and above for somewhere between 85 and 100 euros . My Corsair psu even has a 10 year warranty so I don't see the point to cheap out on a lighter psu , since I have no idea what system I have in a couple of years that my psu will likely be powering
So I heard that if you want to build a more silent system, you can buy a higher wattage power supply so that even at relatively high loads, it stays in its fanless mode.
Price aside, are there any other downsides to this strategy?
Lemme think. Uhhhh...it'll make your PC...heavier, I guess?
i just watched the series and can deffinately reccomend having snacks somewhere else othe than where your building. i was building my first pc with a friend and leaned against the table not realising the massive cup of coke was behind me so i ended up spilling it all over my psu mobo and graphics card, literally $1500 worth of my build at the time. so i had to spend another 200 just to have someone take it all apart and clean it for me before it was built. lucky for me we hadnt put power through it so the components still worked
Here's mine: if you're going to use M.2 drives (specifically, more than 1) check your motherboard's M.2 ports to see if they are SATA, PCIe or both. I recently built a computer with 2 SATA M.2 drives and was wondering why both wouldn't show up until I discovered only 1 of the 2 ports could use PCIe or SATA, but the other was PCIe only.
Im not building a pc but i enjoy watching these videos 😂
With the many fans you can also use simple splitters. However this also brings the potential PC building trap of asking more power from the fan header than it can provide. With some motherboards the fan headers can provide up to 2Amps each but this isn't always the case. Also the PWM control will be the same for all the fans on the same splitter, which isn't necessarily a bad thing but is something to keep in mind.
Nice SpaceX Tee
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