How to read a check engine light code on a Ford 1983-1995 EEC 4 system
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- This self test procedure might be the same for 1983-1995 fords with the eec-iv system. The vehicle in the video was a 1992 f150. Not all vehicles will require the dynamic test. This is only a entertainment video and is not a instructional video. If your vehicle needs repair take it to a certified mechanic.
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WW2 Germany: We have developed an encoding system so complicated that it will confuse the entire world!
Ford, 40 years later: Hold my beer...
Christopher David nice historical context. You are so right about this code retrieval system
Only took 50 years and we could start to use literal paper clips to read these codes. Pretty crazy
This is the only video I've foud that explained the actual full process with the 2 seperate groups and the seperator flash. Without that info it just looks like there's no rhyme or reason to the random flashes and spacing and I was about to pull my hair out. Thank you!
Great video. Taught me everything I needed to know to fix a bad MAP sensor (126) and 411-412 bad ISC valve. Thanks for spending the time to do this.
I did everything your video told me to do except for starting my 95 f150. I put the vehicle in the in the on position but didn't start it and it started reading the codes. I didn't turn the wheel or hit the accelerator the code came in. Great video!
EEC IV 3 DIGIT CODES[EEC Tests]
Applicable only to some 1991 and up vehicles
NOTE: When you see "is/was" listed for a code:
For a HARD fault code the sensor IS out of range right now.
For a MEMORY code, it WAS out of range at one time (possible intermittent wire etc.).
Differences in test mode noted as:
(O) =Key On Engine Off test
(R) =Key On Engine Running test
(M) =Memory code
111 System checks OK 112 (O,M) Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is/was low or grounded 113 (O,M) IAT sensor is/was high or open 114 (O,R) IAT sensor out of range 116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range 117 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was low or grounded 118 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open 121 (O,R,M) Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range 122 (O,M) TP low (possibly grounded or open circuit) 123 (O,M) TP is/was high or short to power 124 (M) TP voltage was higher than expected 125 (M) TP voltage was lower than expected 126 (O,R,M) MAP or BARO sensor out of range 128 (M) MAP vacuum has not been changing - check vacuum lines 129 (R) No MAP or Mass Air Flow sensor change during "goose" test 136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S
137 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system rich Left or Front HO2S
138 (R) Fault in Cold Start Injector circuit
139 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching Left or Front HO2S
144 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching Single, Right or Rear HO2S 157 (R,M) Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded 158 (O,R,M) MAF sensor is/was high or short to power 159 (O,R) MAF sensor is/was out of range 167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) 171 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was at adaptive limits - Single, Right or Rear HO2S 172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S 173 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S 174 (M) Oxygen sensor was slow in switching Single, Right or Rear HO2S 175 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was at adaptive limits - Left or Front HO2S 176 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S 177 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S 178 (M) Oxygen sensor was slow in switching Left or Front HO2S 179 (M) Fuel system was rich at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S 181 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle Single, Right or Rear HO2S 182 (M) Fuel system was rich at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S 183 (M) Fuel system was lean at idle Single, Right or Rear HO2S 184 (M) Mass Air (MAF) output higher than expected 185 (M) Mass Air (MAF) output lower than expected 186 (M) Injector pulse width longer than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) lower than expected 187 Injector pulse width shorter than expected or Mass Air Flow (MAF) higher than expected 188 (M) Fuel system was rich at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S 189 (M) Fuel system was lean at part throttle - Left or Front HO2S 191 (M) Fuel system was rich at idle - Left or Front HO2S 192 (M) Fuel system was lean at idle - Left or Front HO2S 193 Failure in Flexible Fuel (FF) sensor circuit 194 (M) Perform cylinder balance test to check for inoperative injectors 195 (M) Perform cylinder balance test to check for inoperative injectors 211 (M) Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing 212 (M) Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault 213 (R) Ignition SPOUT or SAW circuit open or shorted 214 (M) Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal 215 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 1 216 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 2 217 (M) Primary circuit failure - ignition coil 3 218 (M) IDM signal open or high or left coil pack failure 219 (M) SPOUT circuit failure, timing defaulted to 10 degrees - follow code 213 diagnosis 222 (M) IDM open or high or right coil pack failure 223 (M) Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault 224 (M) Failure in ignition coil primary circuit 225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) 226 (O) Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal fault 232 (M) EI primary coil circuit failure 238 (M) EI primary circuit failure - ignition coil 4 311 (R) AIR system not working - Single, Right or Rear HO2S 312 (R) AIR not diverting 313 (R) AIR not bypassing 314 (R) AIR inoperative, Left or Front HO2S 326 (R,M) Pressure Feedback EGR shows low pressure EGR not seating or not seating intermittantly 327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low 328 (O,R,M) EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low 332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly 334 (O,R,M) EVP sensor is/was high 335 (O) EGR feedback signal is/was out of range 336 (O,R,M) PFE sensor signal is/was was high 337 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was was high 338 (M) Cooling system did not heat up (check cooling system / thermostat operation) 339 (M) Cooling system overheated (check cooling system / thermostat operation) 341 (O) Octane jumper installed (information only code to notify you if it is installed) 411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) 412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) 452 (M) Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) problem 511 (O) No power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (processor) 512 (M) Memory power (PCM pin 1) was interrupted - Was battery disconnected ? 513 (O) Replace processor (PCM) (internal failure) 519 (O) PSP switch/circuit open 521 (R) Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem 522 (O) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault Transmission MLP sensor out of range in park 524 Problem in low speed fuel pump circuit 525 (O,M) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault 528 (M) System shows voltage at pin 10 (is A/C on ?) or pin 30 (PNP, CPP switch) 529 (M) Data Communications Link to processor failure
Service any EEC codes, erase memory and retest. If code is still present refer to instrument cluster diagnosis manual. 533 (M) Data Communications Link to instrument cluster failure - see 529 536 (O,R,M) Brake On Off open or shorted to ground 538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS 539 (O) System shows voltage at PCM pin 10. Is A/C on ? 542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - 543 (O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power (M) (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open 551 Problem in Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) solenoid/circuit 552 (O) AIRB solenoid/circuit failure 553 (O) AIRD solenoid/circuit failure 554 (O) Fuel Press Regulator Control solenoid/circuit fault 556 (O,M) Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault 557 (O,M) Low speed pump relay primary circuit fault 558 (O) EGR vacuum regulator solenoid/circuit failure 559 (O) A/C relay primary circuit fault 563 (O) High Fan Control (HFC) circuit failure 564 (O) Fan Control (FC) circuit failure 565 (O) Canister Purge 1 solenoid/circuit failure 566 (O) transmission 3/4 shift solenoid/circuit 569 (O) Canister Purge 2 solenoid/circuit failure 578 (M) A/C pressure sensor VREF short to ground 579 (M) ACP sensor did not change with A/C on 581 (M) Cooling fan current was excessive 582 (O) Open cooling fan circuit 583 (M) Fuel pump current was excessive 584 (M) Open power ground circuit 585 (M) A/C clutch current was excessive 586 (M) Open circuit in A/C clutch 587 (O, M) Communication problem between PCM and Variable Control Relay Module (VCRM) 617 (M) Transmission shift failure (1/2 shift) 618 (M) Transmission shift failure (2/3 shift) 619 (M) Transmission shift failure (3/4 shift) 621 (O) Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 1 622 (O) Solenoid/circuit failure - shift solenoid 2 624 (O,M) Solenoid/circuit failure -Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) current is high 625 (O,M) Solenoid/circuit failure - Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) current is low 626 (O) Transmission Coast Clutch (CCS) Solenoid/circuit fault 627 (O) Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault 628 (M) Excessive converter clutch slippage 629 (O,M) Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault 631 (O) Overdrive Cancel Light circuit problem 632 (R) E4OD - Transmission Control Switch (TCS) should be cycled once between engine ID and Goose test 633 (O) 4x4L switch should be in 4x2 or 4x4 high for the test 634 (O,M) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault
Electronic shift transmission - Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor out of range in PARK 636 (O,R) Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range 637 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was high or open 638 (O,M) TOT sensor is/was low or grounded 639 (R,M) Transmission Speed sensor (TSS) circuit fault 641 (O) Transmission solenoid/circuit failure Shift Solenoid 3 643 (O)(M) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit 645 (M) Transmission 1st gear failure 646 (M) Transmission 2nd gear failure 647 (M) Transmission 3rd gear failure 648 (M) Transmission 4th gear failure 649 (M) Transmission EPC system failure 651 (M) Transmission EPC solenoid/circuit fault 652 (O) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) circuit fault 654 (O) Transmission selector not in PARK 656 (M) Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) slip 657 (M) Transmission temperature was excessive 998 (R) Did not pass Key On Engine Off test yet (Get 111 in KOEO first)
(O) Transmission Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid/circuit fault [EEC Tests]
Gary T If you get O2 running rich/lean codes, replace the MAP sensor. If you get vacuum to the EGR at idle or at the wrong times, replace the charcoal canister purge valve.
Thank you!
Looking for help and you seem like maybe the guy that could offer it hopefully.. I have a 94 2.3 and I’m getting code 5195191172172 repeatedly, I’m not sure if it should be broken up into one or two digit numbers
07/25/2022 and this is helping me understand my 93' Tempo. F.Y.I. my daily Reliable driver is a 71' Olds 98 Regency.
Thank you, this was exactly what I was looking for. I didn't have an OBD1 reader, but you saved the day. I have a 93. I was born in 85. I remembered seeing people in the 90's doing it... I just couldn't remember how they did it. Thank you so much.
Get a Snap-on scanner from E-Bay. Get the cartridges and adapters and cables and 120 volt cable to hook up to the battery Pak to check test results away from the vehicle. Also get the 12 volt cable to hook up to the battery and the adaptor for some adapters. It tests MAF, ISC, fuel injectors, fuel pressure, oil pressure, RPM's, fuel trim, KOEO, KOER, movies, and much more!
Does this work for an OBD1?
That egr code (insufficient flow) was a funny story on an expedition. Found 2 holes down the throat of the intake that were clogged with hard carbon. You have to use a mirror to see them but to clean them out I took a thick piece of wire and bent it like a "J" and drilled out the 2 holes...wala! code gone!
Those were likely the ports for the IACV.
For the key on engine on test my check engine light doesn't flash it's staying solid
You may need a new computer
She’s got her own space, I got mine!! Hell Yeah
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions test, solenoid and relay test, ABS SRS, timing advance test, check engine light reset, oil light reset, MAF readings, IAC valve readings, Coolent temperature sensor degrees, RPM'S, oil pressure, fuel pressure, EGR valve flow, and MORE! It works on 1983-2013 and is updatable. It erases memory codes. It checks cylinder balance on fuel injection. It has code connect to diagnose codes. EBAY has it.
What size jumper wire did you use, and what did you put on the end of each wire to make it connect to the plugs. Also if you pause at 0:38 and you look at the gray plug to the left, is that also connected to the eec test cover or is it located somewhere else. All i can tell is that it is an indidual plug.
Would had been a much better video if he'd shown and explained these *very important* steps and how to use each jumper wire.
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It has Ford, G.M. Chrysler, and 2 Toyota cables for OBDI. It does freeze frame, live, graphing, and timing advance, and other tests. It comes in a black pouch. It has a cigarette lighter cable. It takes 4 AAA batteries. Out-of- the- box it goes up to 2013. It's well-lit! It's easy to use! It has code-connect to diagnose codes.
This was a really handy video. TY for making it!
it really doesnt matter what u use tho, anything conductive just make sure u dont ground it out on anything if its not a piece of insulated wire, iv always used a paper clip on ever vehicle iv done jus for the rigidity n ease of stickin it in the connector, and it doesnt fall or wanna touch any metal, it jus sits there.
Travis Miller Any jumper wire that fits will do.
My Ranger is a 1995 and it does not have one of those EEC test. It's no where to be found, What's up with that?. I've had 4 guys look to see why the light is still on after changing the battery, alternator, solenoid and starter. After putting a new battery in it still would not start sometimes. Could it be a ground wire? and why would I "NOT" have an EEC Tester?
Have you checked your distributor?
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I own a 1995 ford xlt 5.0 automatic xtracab....oxford white....I love,love my truck.....people walk up to it like they have never seen this body style before...lol.......it is the last of the classic bodied fords.....I like the the new ford trucks....as my wife has one......but i wouldnt trade her...
dude awesome you showed this!!
it really helped me!!
You’re a godsend brother!
Ty
I think the '86 doesn't flash the check engine light. If I recall correctly, on my '87 I needed to hook up a analog volt meter to a slot in the test connector and the positive of the battery. The needle on the volt meter would then pulse just like the check engine light. The check engine light does not flash on '87 and older.
David Barkes , on my boat, there IS no check engines light...so that would make sense to have an alternate source of feedback.
I have a 93 with the 5.8 v8 and when i hook it up just loke your video and o start the truck it revs up to 2rpm and stays there the whole time the wore is hooked up y?
George Oakum dame happened me but that’s normal
I performed this test on my 95 f250 351w.
I got 211 code with the truck off (warmed up) and 72 , 53, and 8 with the truck running.
The engine light has never came on.
But the truck randomly loses power and stalls, just cranks. Leave it sitting, it starts back up.
I’ve rebuilt the ignition system, switch under the dash. Could you please help a fella out with the mentioned codes? I’m getting conflicting stories across this interwebs
yes OLDSMOB455, thanks.... you help'd me get motivated. lol yeehaw! yes, i believe i can do this. I'm going to check the ol 1992-3 E 150/351w conversion van CHECK ENGINE thing. All was good til it overheated alil i noticed. ...pull to shoulder of hiway, enginecoolant streaming out, pulled van inside engine cover off, set aside. a drside rear freeze plug had rusted a small hole. I had a flat metal roof rubber washer and a stanless steel screw and flat washer. I used items. still no leak, but CHECK ENGINE comes on...., but only when in gear and rolling 25yards appox.,
CHECK ENGINE . Engine off..... 10sec approx, then engine on and running not in gear, just ideling forEVER... NO check engine LIGHT, but put it in gear travel approx 25yards CHECK ENGINE comes on. ther ya have it, ....my situation. Now i am going to check trouble codes. thankya!
thanks for the video bud, what manual are you getting the code descriptions from?
A manual that came with a cheapo "code reader" for that vehicle.
What is 231?
I have an F800 with a 7L gas engine. It has this style data plug on the rt side of the cab under the seat. I have a check eng light, and performance problems. I have jumped the connectors as described. I can't get the dash to flash. I don't know how to proceed. What's next?
Not sure. Maybe you have the wrong plug? Under the seat seems like a unlikely place. Google it if you havn't already.
@@Oldsmob455 , my mistake. I should check my message more careful. The plug is under the heater box against the firewall in front of the passenger side cab. one plug is single terminal, the other has plugs in it. I jumped #2 to the single wire plug. I also tried it with a test light to #4 terminal as well. I can't get the chk eng light to cycle.
I would attach a photo of the plug, but I can't find an icon to add a photo
what is the way to figure out the codes when doing the wire. When get the light flashing to give the codes
Would the 111 code flash before and after the the single interruptor flash ? Im getting the same amount of flashes before.and after the interruptor. Im.trying to figure out if the.second series of flashes would be 111 or code 33 which is a egr code.
I don't get what you jumpered and why. You don't say anything about it...
Yeah. The most important part he just totally skips explaining...
Right
Good video
i can't get my 91 ford bronco to go into an engine running test. it still does an engine off test even though it is running. I tried a couple times figureing i missed something. but still no luck. after restarting it automatically gives me codes and not the 4 flashes for the v8. I also have a 91 f150 and it worked in it. Any ideas as to why the bronco would do that?
Thank you for video. I have 92 f150, has the 4.9 liter. It used to be my dads truck, and his mechanic unhooked the check engine light. He now denies it but i was there when he told my dad that he did it for him at my dads request.. do you happen to know how to hook the check engine light back up? I dont know if he unplugged a bulb or what. Any help would be appreciated
4 amp fuse in cab fusebox
Hello,, "how did you fix code 332" ? ..... I got the same 332 code but the car runs well... I just don't want other parts to be destroyed because 'insufficient EGR flow detected"...
mario agostini Insufficient EGR flow could mean the EGR is leaking down or not opening. That could be the EGR itself or a vacuum problem. There may be a vacuum solenoid in the circuit. Check for vacuum at the hose at idle with the engine warmed up. There shouldn't be. A throttle that is partially open because something else could cause vacuum when it shouldn't.
mario agostini egr is just for emission control. No need to worry about other parts. Most vehicles have bad egr systems
I should add, if EGR is on at idle it can cause a rough idle
what did you use to jump the two self test connector plugs?
is there a reason why some people are hooking it up differently. This article I read said to hook the self test input to the battery or body ground and didn't talk about bringing the house looking thing with the self test input.
bridging*
does anyone have any pictures of how a Check engine light would look like on an 86? I can't seem to see any indication of where that little light would show up at
RMDelete
Look in the ash tray for the flashing light!
Is the book ur looking at with the codes is it the owners manual ford book?
blake mcdonald It is a code manual from a digital tester from Amazon.
what if it doesn't read the vehicle
Well he totally slipped over a huge first step.
When performing the diagnostics could i use a regular copper wire to jump the two EEC ports?
Refugio Santamaria yes that worked for me
hi how to find a code for 92 year ford 350 chatteau van?
Where can I get something online that has a list of he codes?
Haynes or chilton manuals have all the codes in them. You can look online as well
Jason S. Motor manual as well. I both books one on OBD I and OBD II.
I have a 1992 Ford F-150 and im using the Dash Display Diagnostic and im getting the code E03. I saw you have a Code book. Do you know where i can get one?
Ok. Im gonna try testing my truck today as its ben havin some MAJOR problems. It wants to stall when its warmed up and if i stop to hard. So i need a codebook to read the codes. Thnx
***** Thanks. I pulled a mess of codes ill try and look up on Google or someplace. Here are the codes if your interested.
Engine off Key on: 663, 611, 411
Engine on Key on: 114, 632, 663
(ik some people it kinda bug's em when they dont find out a problem)
Is this what you're looking for?
www.supermotors.net/registry/media/245234
No no no. If you turn the key wile holding the Odometer trip. The gauges will do a full sweep and read messages. Im getting an E03 code.
@@Krisb193 that's not a error code. That's the calibration of the pmos
Thanks! Helped a LOT!
My old F 250 1990 has EEC 4 and OBD 1 what does that mean and I did check for EEC 1 once
@420santamaria So just one single wire to the two ports on the EEC test??
can i do this to my 1994 grand marquis
As far as I know all fords
Hey, I don't know if somebody will read this but, I have a Ford Ranger 1995 2.3, I look for the EEC IV in the engine compartment but I didn't found it, but below the steering column I have an OBD II plug I also read that 1995 was like a "transition" year between systems so I don't know what do I have to do in orden to pull my "Check Engine" codes
Benjamín If it has OBD II, get a code tester for OBDII from a parts store. If EEC-IV get a digital code tester from Amazon.
i know how to get the codes but where can i find the definition of the codes to correct the problem
Google may help or the manual that comes with a digital tester or get a Snap-on scanner and cartridges and adaptor from EBAY.
Is this the same for the 7.3 L diesel?
I jumped the terminal and turned the key forward like you showed in the video but no light flashes or light period. With no light flash does it mean it has another problem.
Thanks.
Not sure, try googling it.
R D It could mean the bulb is burnt out on the dash. It should flash even if it flashes a pass code.
I had a 93 Taurus with a bad pcm that would not respond to the jumper wire
What if you have a 5 speed manual transmission? How do hit the overdrive button then put it in 5th ?
Jason W. Hamilton That is for automatic trans.
Chris P. Baykin
no on manual you have to start it, put it in first and dump the clutch! codes will flash quick so keep your eye on the light!
94 ford ranger 2.3L runs great when cold once its hot engine runs bad, sounds missing no power at all
chucky denis Get a digital code tester from Amazon to see what it says.
any special gauge wire I need to use to avoid problems?
Droplifter ahh perrrrrfect! I found my EEC yesterday! Thank you for such great info. Auto zone was helping but not finding my obd1 on 1994 engine was sending me to the dealer$hip. Knowing this method enables me to help me...forever! Thanks.
shelleyfunny19 Get a digital code tester from Amazon and the extension cable.
shelleyfunny19
12-2 should be fine
I'm Antonio from Brasil and I have a FORD= F1000 4.9i 1997, Is it the same ? Thanks a lot and excuse me my bad english
Google is your friend
Well you didn't show how to jumper it no one cares about your problems and the only thing people are looking for is how to jump the eec aboat to shutter down a fella
Boss up hoossssup
eec, electronic engine control
Your oil pressure is low
Yeah it is
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