Love my PS-100, I use it with an amp switcher as well, I love the fact I can use the loop in the PS-100 as a Global effects loop for all my heads, saves a LOT of cabling hassles
I have the PS100 and have my effects running through it and 4 heads and 2 cabs but do not have an amp switcher but would like to purchase one. May I ask what switcher are you using and are you 100% happy with it? I’m looking at a KHE ACS 4X2 but shipping and tariffs to the USA are concerning. Thanks
@@jimmccall8030 I have the kahayan 8x4, it's great and works perfectly, if I was buying one today I would also go with a KHE, mainly because one thing the KHE's can do now is allow you to run 2 cab's at once, which the kahayan can't do
I have had the 50 Watt version of the Power Station 2 for many, many years now, Amazing device and for sure the best attenuator that I have ever com across. I use mine with the switches set to BRITE and WARM and the Presence and Depth set fully to the left to completely remove them from the circuit. I really only use the Presence and Depth for compensating for the Fletcher-Munson effect if you turn down low. There are many ways to use the Power Station and as you say, you can really tweak it to each amp. Something that is useful to know is that the different settings on the switches refers to different level of activity in the Load. FLAT is a Resistive Load, I think WARM and BRITE and a blend of Resistive and Reactive Loads and DEEP and EDGE are fully Reactive Load,
They are amazing. I’ve had one for a couple of years. My amp and cab is in the same room so I can’t do loud volume regularly. It’s made my Boogie MkV complete as I can use it the way it’s meant to be used all the time without giving me hearing damage. I recently had to replace a valve and for a while just had to use the Boogie as normal and the difference was huge. It’s essential.
In an Interview Steve Fryette said dip switches in the middle position and power amp eq potentiometers completely off is as close to the real amp/cab interaction as posssible. The flat setting is just the resistive load part. That beeing said… someone once said - if it sounds good, it sounds good 😉
Good vid. That's actually only half of what it can do. It can also be used as straight power amp for use with a modeller, etc. And lastly a unique trick with it, if you jack the speaker out to the amp in, you're using the power amp and the attenuator i.e. attenuating itself.
By far the best available. My PS-100 as an attenuator, with a low wattage amp to make it giggable, or a power amp with pedal preamps. Nothing touches it.
Thanks for this, Euge... I bought the Tone King Iron Man II Mini (30W) and loved it so much that i bought the big boy (100W) version for my larger amps... Ive always been super curious about Fryette's attenuator... In my opinion, even if you dont need to necessarily keep quiet, being able to cook those tubes and find that sweet spot makes attenuators worth every penny. (Even if they are crazy expensive. lol)
PS100 is the most useful piece of gear I own..it really is great..The switches,by the way add or subtract the amount of “reactive-ness” in the low resonance and high resonance..Both set to flat is non reactive,middle is lowest reactive behavior,top is the most reactive behavior..and any combination in between..It’s very speaker dependent,and what sounds best with your rig…those two switches really make it easy to dial in..Just being able to select how much reactive behavior you want in the lows and highs is great..Nothing beats the Fryette for me..
Whenever I see Euge has dropped a new video, I know it's going to be a good day. Interesting, Johan Segeborn also posted a video for this same piece of gear almost exactly one year ago. It's good to see how both of you approach using it.
80% of the tone is speaker and output transformer I'd say... As for the PS-100, it's the best investment I've done for my home studio along with the UA Ox box.
Great tones as always. It's interesting that you have the switches set to FLAT, as I understand that will mean the unit is a resistive load, not a reactive one. Someone more knowledgable than I can confirm that. As you say though - every amp is different and you have to use your ears, not your eyes to dial in.
Hi Euge, great videos and great performance at John Smith🤘When you use PS-100 just as a reactive load and thus cannot use depth and presence, do you still go flat/flat or are you going for warm/brite?
If you’re using the loadbox side only and not running out to a speaker cab, you definitely want to set the switches to atleast the middle positions to engage the reactive load. I’m not 100% sure but I think if you have the switches set to flat when using a real cab, it’ll use the cab’s impedance curve for reactance.
I have the presence and depth at 0 but have the switches in the middle position and it sounds like the amps without it. I have the PS-2a version though so I don’t know if that makes a difference
I just A/Bd it with a $100 Bugera Power Soak on a Plexi and a Fender blackface this weekend. My opinion is the Fryette is not worth it AT ALL! Especially for 15x the price! I could not discern differences at low volume with the Fryette set to flat. Very surprised!!
I also own the Bugera PS and I did tests wether it sucks tone compared to using the amp without it, and there is no sonically difference at all. It doesn't have most of the features the Fryette has though. It's just a simple powersoak, if you just need something to attenuate your amp with, this is your best choice imo, not only because it's cheap because it's simple and does what you want it to.
@@luca4352 And small & very light! It fits in the back of my fender combo when I transport it for gigs. The Fryette weighs an easy 5 pounds+ with glass tubes inside... I felt like I needed a dedicated case for it. No thanks!!
While I agree that Fryette is not worth the price, this is not a fair comparison. Fryette is designed to work like a resistive load (like Bugera) at Flat settings. So you should at least get the switches on Fryette to the middle and repeat your test. That would be more accurate.
@@Procyon58 My intent was to hear the true base sound of the amp with no eq modification. The manual said that flat should be used in most cases. Brite and Warm are the middle positions, it said you should only use those when you see fit such as for more mids to cut into a live mix. I can just get pedals or an eq for that...
I owned Fryette PS-2A (50w version) and it's good but not great. You don't get that natural sizzle and deep bass with this unit at all. If you fiddle with the knobs and the switches, you just get a very messy and boomy lowend, and a harsh top-end instead of a nice sizzle. Google impedence curve comparisons and you'll see there what I'm hearing. I switched to React:IR v2 and didn't look back. It's like half the price but so much better at both attenuating and loadboxing (can even load up IRs and get a direct out to headphones or FOH).
I returned mine after 3 days of trying all the tips and advice from the factory and internet. I could not get it to sound close to the real thing. Not to my standards anyway. Some of us can hear the difference, some can't. I wish I was one of the ones that can't hear the difference.
Love my PS-100, I use it with an amp switcher as well, I love the fact I can use the loop in the PS-100 as a Global effects loop for all my heads, saves a LOT of cabling hassles
I have the PS100 and have my effects running through it and 4 heads and 2 cabs but do not have an amp switcher but would like to purchase one. May I ask what switcher are you using and are you 100% happy with it? I’m looking at a KHE ACS 4X2 but shipping and tariffs to the USA are concerning. Thanks
@@jimmccall8030 I have the kahayan 8x4, it's great and works perfectly, if I was buying one today I would also go with a KHE, mainly because one thing the KHE's can do now is allow you to run 2 cab's at once, which the kahayan can't do
I have had the 50 Watt version of the Power Station 2 for many, many years now, Amazing device and for sure the best attenuator that I have ever com across.
I use mine with the switches set to BRITE and WARM and the Presence and Depth set fully to the left to completely remove them from the circuit. I really only use the Presence and Depth for compensating for the Fletcher-Munson effect if you turn down low. There are many ways to use the Power Station and as you say, you can really tweak it to each amp. Something that is useful to know is that the different settings on the switches refers to different level of activity in the Load. FLAT is a Resistive Load, I think WARM and BRITE and a blend of Resistive and Reactive Loads and DEEP and EDGE are fully Reactive Load,
Essential…had mine a year and love it for my JCM 800
Sounds great as always Euge. Been looking at getting one of these for awhile now.
Oh thanks man!
@@EugeValovirta230V could I use the Freyette to mic my 100w 800 and record in the same room, or do you feel I should put the cab in a different room.
That PS 100 is the best piece of gear I’ve ever seen 🤟🏻Rock on
They are amazing. I’ve had one for a couple of years. My amp and cab is in the same room so I can’t do loud volume regularly. It’s made my Boogie MkV complete as I can use it the way it’s meant to be used all the time without giving me hearing damage. I recently had to replace a valve and for a while just had to use the Boogie as normal and the difference was huge. It’s essential.
Great insight into the Fryette I will have make a note to check it out as also a JCM 800 owner.
In an Interview Steve Fryette said dip switches in the middle position and power amp eq potentiometers completely off is as close to the real amp/cab interaction as posssible. The flat setting is just the resistive load part. That beeing said… someone once said - if it sounds good, it sounds good 😉
Good vid. That's actually only half of what it can do. It can also be used as straight power amp for use with a modeller, etc. And lastly a unique trick with it, if you jack the speaker out to the amp in, you're using the power amp and the attenuator i.e. attenuating itself.
That is interesting
By far the best available. My PS-100 as an attenuator, with a low wattage amp to make it giggable, or a power amp with pedal preamps. Nothing touches it.
Thanks for this, Euge... I bought the Tone King Iron Man II Mini (30W) and loved it so much that i bought the big boy (100W) version for my larger amps... Ive always been super curious about Fryette's attenuator... In my opinion, even if you dont need to necessarily keep quiet, being able to cook those tubes and find that sweet spot makes attenuators worth every penny. (Even if they are crazy expensive. lol)
PS100 is the most useful piece of gear I own..it really is great..The switches,by the way add or subtract the amount of “reactive-ness” in the low resonance and high resonance..Both set to flat is non reactive,middle is lowest reactive behavior,top is the most reactive behavior..and any combination in between..It’s very speaker dependent,and what sounds best with your rig…those two switches really make it easy to dial in..Just being able to select how much reactive behavior you want in the lows and highs is great..Nothing beats the Fryette for me..
LOVE my PowerStation.
Whenever I see Euge has dropped a new video, I know it's going to be a good day. Interesting, Johan Segeborn also posted a video for this same piece of gear almost exactly one year ago. It's good to see how both of you approach using it.
Awesome, thanks!
The power station is awesome I never play without it
I love your videos man!! Go Leafs Go!! My home town brother!!
I miss my old Marshall’s and my ADA🤘😭🤘
80% of the tone is speaker and output transformer I'd say... As for the PS-100, it's the best investment I've done for my home studio along with the UA Ox box.
Great tones as always. It's interesting that you have the switches set to FLAT, as I understand that will mean the unit is a resistive load, not a reactive one. Someone more knowledgable than I can confirm that. As you say though - every amp is different and you have to use your ears, not your eyes to dial in.
Hey man, is spec. the Attentuator of the Fryette way better than the St. Rock? How to use IR's with the Fryette? Plugin or another Hardware device?
Euge, if you have the opportunity, could you demo the 5150 iconic EL34?
Hi Euge! Thanx for the video! :) What made you switch from St:Rock to the Fryette attenuator?
Hi Euge, great videos and great performance at John Smith🤘When you use PS-100 just as a reactive load and thus cannot use depth and presence, do you still go flat/flat or are you going for warm/brite?
If you’re using the loadbox side only and not running out to a speaker cab, you definitely want to set the switches to atleast the middle positions to engage the reactive load. I’m not 100% sure but I think if you have the switches set to flat when using a real cab, it’ll use the cab’s impedance curve for reactance.
I have the presence and depth at 0 but have the switches in the middle position and it sounds like the amps without it. I have the PS-2a version though so I don’t know if that makes a difference
WE TRUST İN EUGE
I just A/Bd it with a $100 Bugera Power Soak on a Plexi and a Fender blackface this weekend. My opinion is the Fryette is not worth it AT ALL! Especially for 15x the price! I could not discern differences at low volume with the Fryette set to flat. Very surprised!!
I also own the Bugera PS and I did tests wether it sucks tone compared to using the amp without it, and there is no sonically difference at all. It doesn't have most of the features the Fryette has though. It's just a simple powersoak, if you just need something to attenuate your amp with, this is your best choice imo, not only because it's cheap because it's simple and does what you want it to.
@@luca4352 And small & very light! It fits in the back of my fender combo when I transport it for gigs. The Fryette weighs an easy 5 pounds+ with glass tubes inside... I felt like I needed a dedicated case for it. No thanks!!
While I agree that Fryette is not worth the price, this is not a fair comparison. Fryette is designed to work like a resistive load (like Bugera) at Flat settings. So you should at least get the switches on Fryette to the middle and repeat your test. That would be more accurate.
@@Procyon58 switches/knobs in the middle is flat.. for me anyways..
@@Procyon58 My intent was to hear the true base sound of the amp with no eq modification. The manual said that flat should be used in most cases. Brite and Warm are the middle positions, it said you should only use those when you see fit such as for more mids to cut into a live mix. I can just get pedals or an eq for that...
I owned Fryette PS-2A (50w version) and it's good but not great. You don't get that natural sizzle and deep bass with this unit at all. If you fiddle with the knobs and the switches, you just get a very messy and boomy lowend, and a harsh top-end instead of a nice sizzle. Google impedence curve comparisons and you'll see there what I'm hearing.
I switched to React:IR v2 and didn't look back. It's like half the price but so much better at both attenuating and loadboxing (can even load up IRs and get a direct out to headphones or FOH).
Great amp
👍👍👍🎸🎸🎸🤘🤘🤘
I returned mine after 3 days of trying all the tips and advice from the factory and internet. I could not get it to sound close to the real thing. Not to my standards anyway. Some of us can hear the difference, some can't. I wish I was one of the ones that can't hear the difference.