I made a little LED Matrix and everything went wrong
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
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I designed this matrix 5 years ago and finally took some time to assemble and test it. All went wrong but I manage to make it work anyways. ...and it's bright!
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“I put it in a box and forgot about it”.
Hey, get outside of my head! 😂
it's gonn be a problem for future me.
Handy hint when bit-bashing WS2812 protocol - you can usually leave gaps between bytes, varies with exact part but tens of microseconds is usually OK
every time, it's like a mirror of my own life. As always, thanks for showing every bump in the road. Much love from one geek to another. 💜
If you're using the attiny10, you can use unused peripheral registers as additional memory. Clever trick I found out a while ago
how did it work?
@@yagobueno2785well for instance of you're not using the 16 bit timer, you get basically 8 additional places for storing things (icr, ocr, tcnt). The adc output register can be used for an additional register and so on. Look chapter 19 from the datasheet to get some understanding of the other registers.
@@yagobueno2785 just fine, I'm sure. Registers on classic AVR are memory-mapped and have 1-cycle access. As long as writing to it won't do anything unwanted, you're golden.
Huh. Is this specified behavior? It feels like something that could disappear in a random future part rev.
Why i like Jlpcb over pcbway isnt so much the 2 vs 5 dollar, but the shipping cost. Somehow jlpcb seems to have cheaper shipping options
It is crazy that they are so incredibly cheap that shipping costs often are more important then the actual pcbs itself
For me shipping is 25€
@@ancientlink0 yes something like that for me too. Jlpcb had a 1.70 shipping option i think when i last checked. If i need a small pcb i may go to OSHPARK: 5 USD pet square inch, incl shipping, 3 copies.
@@ancientlink0 😮 I cri
And shipping is fast. I had 30 PCBs (two designs) completed on Thurs AM and they were out for delivery on Friday AM (northern Calif near Yosemite)
It's comforting to know I'm not the only one covering my boards with bodges. I love the project and reusabilty. Keep up the great work!
Pulling that AVR programmer out of that nest of wires like a game of tug-of-war hit me on a very personal level.
the SK6805's have a working temp of 85C, those led's at full brightness will just shit themselves after like 5 minutes
A human pick and place machine is a thing of beauty!! :)
I love the idea of mounting the microscope to the wall using that monitor arm! Desk space is always at a premium and then you also get the benefit of easily moving the scope to where you need it.
What model microscope is that? Is it common that they have mounting points like that for a wall mount?
I have an old cheapo one that only has a screen and is monocular, so looking to upgrade to a similar setup as you have here.
I used these same LEDs in a number pad PCB project, and they were a hassle. The top plastic layer would always detach from the LED, and they were so hard to solder on properly without rearranging multiple times. If you're going to want to add RGB to a project, consider getting bigger LEDs haha.
i bought a bunch of them on sale and still have not used them. im a sucker for leds on sale.haha
Very Cool! See you at Maker Faire!
I made a 8x6 version of this and had JLCPCB assemble it, it doesn't melt, but I do put heat-sinks on the back because they do easily reach 70-80c
I saw some uC on the microchip page that have some Lut embedded, one of the exemples was using, i think was I2c, passing through the LUT and done the processing to adressble led's like a charm. Without extra processing. They have a PIC 10F322 that has one lut in the same pinout off the attiny10
its july 27 today, so that basically means it only took you one day to design order receive assemble and test it, so pretty good ;D
oh wait plus 5 years hehe
Putting component pins directly over each other without a small wire connection in the schematic editor is risky :D
12:39 I once dead-bugged a 3W white LED that I was going to wildly under-drive to use as an indicator. (I wanted this LED’s shape, not its power.) Importantly, this is a flip-chip LED, where you solder the die directly onto the PCB, with no actual chip package. It just has a phosphor layer applied to one side.
Anyway, I accidentally connected it to 5V instead of 2.6ish volts, and it ran super bright for a few seconds and then fell off the wire, because it had indeed melted the solder! 😂 So I know for a fact the junction temperature reached over 183°C. (And it was fine after soldering the wire back on.)
There's a fascination in seeing these little fellows shining :)
Hah, I did this soldering with a 6 leg without a microscope and it was a nightmare!
I now own 2 scopes. Lol
I found the biggest problem with soldering wires to smd parts is being able to see what you're doing. I soldered some wires (0,05mm) to 0201 leds for fun. Back then i didn't have my glasses so my astigmatism was giving me a hard time but i pulled it off. At work i often have to solder wires to sand grain sized components so i got some training. Awesome project! I always enjoy seeing your videos in my recommended
The Pixel Pump looks interesting! Price point is good for engineers but a bit steep for hobbyists. :(
Hand soldering such tiny stuff gets easier if you use a piece of double sided tape to hold the component in place
I really should find a use for that string of ATTiny10s.. that I’ve also had in a box since 2019 😂
BTW USBasp does TPI quite nicely.
hey man. what's the best or most cost effect programmer for those little atmel chips?
@@jstro-hobbytech Get two usbasp’s from Asia. Use one to upgrade firmware on the other. The upgraded one now does TPI.
@@AndersNielsenAA that's exactly what I did too, alternatively you can use an Arduino nano to do the job
I enjoyed this video quite a lot sir! Props for keeping and sharing all the mistakes and mishaps, good information to have for anyone trying this out for themselves
Oh yeah, I just love using those Tinys! I also did the same with 24L, which can be driven by an external oscillator or resonator, but I wanted to challenge those NE555 LED flashers so kept the component count down by using the internal RC (yep, also unrolled Assembly loops with LUT loading in place of delay NOPs - though I kinda hate using C/C++ on AVRs so just coded the whole thing in Asm). And the Asm usage payed off yet again, as I could fit one 8-bit framebuffer (wanted the anims to be procedural) for the strip (was 1 meter long, can't recall the LED count) into the SRAM and have plenty of FLASH left for the 256x24bit LUTs (three that is :P). Truly the best FLASH utilization I ever did btw, had to optimize the logic in order to fit lol.
If there is no space for buffer for 25 RGB pixels, then you should try to calculate RGB values on the fly. Or do it in group of 5 pixels.
I am so happy to See the process. In my projects a lot of similar happy accidents happen 😂
Your videos are so inspiring! And thanks for including the mistakes. All of my projects seem to have some version of being rotated 90 degrees when completed
Liked that you showed al the miss steps, very relatable! Now I don't feel alone anymore :)
"Five years ago" beats my record for PCBs I haven't used. Well done. lol
I have several boxes of wires and connectors, etc. AND interestingly, they all look very much like yours do. !!!
That intro was perfect! Seems like it was about time with a break from the construction work😂👌
You somehow read my mind as I myself started designing the same project but with a few more of these same LEDs
keep rollin rollin rollin rollin
Wiii, I see my Cyclops SAO 😀
Also really encouraging to see these SK6805’s operating at the 3.3V SAO power, as I’ve been putting off ordering a finished new SAO design due to fears of that not being enough.
Clever!!! That’s very cool 🧡
It's always fun to watch your videos!
to add wire legs to smd chips, invert, glue to substrate with CA, streach 0.1mm enameled wire over from one side to the other , touching pins on both sides, solder wire to pins through enamel. cut waste.
Very cool. Microchip has some 6 pin sot packaged PIC micros with a lot more resources.
Great project. I tried using those little things in a project before I had a microscope and never did get it working. I ended up making a new board and using the next bigger size. After seeing this I may go back and retry it.
Great job on this. Love the sound effects and music on this episode.
Your soldering skills are god level!
At least you're in good company with the rotated SAO header, the SAO that Digikey put in the swag bags was like that too. It took an embarrassingly long time to realize it was a sideways 'D' and some weird boxy smile or something.
You are a genius!
Ich hab da so ein Fenster im Hackspace mit ganz vielen simple add-ons *hust*
I‘m Building my own custom keyboard so this video is very useful at the right time.😊
Amazing video. I love the pixel pump concept. It’s Not cheap though 😢
I wonder if you could write the code to dynamically generate the output without using a framebuffer. Could be fun to try in a language thay isn't assembly
That looks like it could be the world tiniest Word Clock. 😂
I also was interested in what model of microscope you are using and if was ready for the wall mount or is that something you had to adapt to wall mount ?
BBC should use this as a Prototype for ThE V3 Micro bit
nice work
yesterday found tiny 8x8 rgb led matrix, 25 x 25 mm. with esp32 $8, only leds $4+. i have idea to make rgb cube
The thing with that board is that it is so small that practically, and fortunately, everything is next to everything else allowing for many opportunities to have "happy accidents" LOL BTW: Funny thing is that I was watching Bob Ross' channel painting when your video came on and I thought I was have a "Happy little brain fart" when you cut that video footage in.
getting full color with barely enough room for 1 byte per LED was cool. self inflicted punishment.... but cool!
“I put it in a box and forgot about it”
Me looking at the box i have in my shop collecting traumatic memories and dust:
9:23 -> lol. It looks exactly like my stuff
This is why you do reviews of the schematic and then another review of the layout...
Ideally NOT by yourself as you are blind by your own work.
omg that dispenser....now I need one 🙂
why dont you share how to get these ?
Could you please provide the link to buy the Robins holder component?
awesome video brother!
What are those lights you have attached to your microscope and where do you buy them?
What do you use for soldering manually? Which type of solder paste I mean?
I built a 1.5mm RGB led matrix like this in the shape of a yin yang with 106 LEDs on it.
Where can one get the 3x2 pogo pin headers? And is it compatible with an esp01?
What kind of a soldering iron do you use and recommend (brand and model)?
I am looking for one that lasts a very long time and has the best solder wetting and heat transfer characteristics.
Not looking for the cheapest or most expensive, just something that is (near) professional level quality but at an acceptable price ($80-$500).
Ersa, JBC, Metcal, Pace, Hakko…
@@tookitogo Thank you.
Any specific models?
@@edinfific2576 That really depends on your specific requirements. The only models I would avoid are the cheapest Hakko models that don’t use cartridge heaters. I have Ersa myself, in part because where I live, their tips are easy and inexpensive to get, and I love the way Ersa handles feel in my hand. JBC is really good, actually performing slightly better than Ersa, and JBC has a MASSIVE selection of tips (far larger than anyone else, by far) but those tips are really expensive and not as durable as Ersa’s. Pace doesn’t perform as well as Ersa and JBC, but is still excellent, and in USA they’re quite affordable, while the European brands are very expensive there. I haven’t used Hakko myself but they have a stellar reputation for quality, but have annoying user interfaces. I haven’t used Metcal either, but they also have a great reputation.
What hasn’t impressed me is Weller. The soldering performance itself is fine, but the build quality of newer products isn’t that impressive, and the quality of other products (like tweezers and pliers) made by companies that Weller has acquired have dropped significantly since Weller bought them. Apparently the quality of their tips has also gone down.
Combining pwm with just two bits for color select should get you full range shouldn't it?
Leaves a lot available of the 32 bytes
lol i hear ya there i got projects sitting around from years ago too
Miss You !
I love it !!
JLCPCB will assemble this for like 12 dollars and much faster
Very cool
imagine you managed to put all the tiny components except one then you realized you messed up the pcb so you have to start from scratch but also your components are limited so you have remove it all to reuse.
i'm doing it right now with my homemade led matrix...
Are we able to download your PCB design?
Can anyone help me? What is the round display on pcb hackaday 2023? Is it covered by a lens?
😂that was a fun one
Where can we buy the Module?
💚💚
As they say in LuniLand "Ship it"
easyeda have exactly that reason feature what warns you of un used networks. But you did not use it?
So 1nit?
"I put it in a box and forgot about it" - I'm in this picture and I don't like it.
Bought a very simple one-bay NAS/3.5" HDD enclosure plus ARM board. Wasted time and money with used drives that turned out to be bad, then I had to move so I threw the project in a box that got buried in a closet for three years.
Can you please make a video about a custom CB radio frequency transmitter? I think a real time digital audio compression algorithm on ESP8266/ESP32 would be fantastic for crystal clear audio on a custom long range walkie talkie! Good Luck!
Sounds like a much bigger project imo
smol
According to Google Translate, smol = bad luck in "Slovenian - Detected" How appropriate.
you shrink it more now you build tft screen your self😂
assembly in 2024...
It does seem a little silly to go through all this trouble when jlcpcb's economic pcba costs about the same as getting a stencil...
Eh not really, after extended parts + labour/loading fees + engineering fees, it’s usually noticeably cheaper to assemble at home in my experience. At least for a prototype.
@@innfos4634 maybe, in this case there are only two parts and the main one is the led. So you'd only incur $2 of extended fees. Additionally I've found that the parts on jlcpcb's library are often much cheaper than what i can get on digikey.
In the end it might not be cheaper, but it's very comparable and I'd happily pay just a bit extra to not have to populate hundreds of tiny parts by hand.
@@innfos4634 For a first prototype I wouldn't personally spend PCB assembly costs, since there's a chance it doesn't even work. Only use this if you're certain it works...
That multilayer $2 offer is crap, what am I supposed to fit in 50x50mm that requires a lot of signal or power connections?
NYANCAT 🐱🏳️🌈
no ai music please
Ъъ.