Rockshox Recon Travel Increase and Lower Leg Service
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- Опубликовано: 26 фев 2021
- My Rockshox Recon is due for a lower leg service so while I'm in there I also increase the travel from 130mm to 140mm. I wanted to do this to be able to run a slightly lower pressure to get a better balance between sag height, suppleness, and diving under hard braking.
For the lower leg service, I used:
Isopropyl Alcohol
Rockshox 15wt Suspension Oil:
www.avantlink.com/click.php?t...
Rockshox 5wt Suspension Oil:
www.avantlink.com/click.php?t...
Sram Butter:
www.avantlink.com/click.php?t...
Rockshox Travel Spacers:
www.avantlink.com/click.php?t...
Also available on Performance Bicycle:
www.avantlink.com/click.php?t...
This video is for entertainment purposes only. I am not a bike mechanic. I am not suggesting anyone attempt do this to their fork. 
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If you’re thinking about trying this yourself, be advised that your lockout may not work afterwards. Mine no longer does and others have commented the same. I think it has something to do with the oil volume in the damper side. This is a perfect example of why I said that this is what I’m doing to my bike and that I’m not suggesting you do anything to yours.
You used motor oil instead of shock oil. If you don't know the difference between petroleum and silicone based lubricants, you shouldn't be doing your own services and especially not telling other people to ruin their suspension.
What worked for me: Try removing the top cap on the damper side (compression knob etc) enough to add an equal volume of 5wt oil for each spacer removed (5ml per 10mm spacer?). Part of the spec for the damper oil is the height of the oil measured from the top of the damper tube, if the travel increases the level will drop below spec and this is my guess as to what is causing the lockout issue? Not sure why SRAM only specs 140ml for each travel option?
@@lucienbisson that makes sense. Hopefully other people who tried this will read that to fit it. For me, I actually just reduced the travel back to stock for another project I am working on.
Hi, it would be interesting if you open the damper side and put the oil that it requieres in the manual for the specific travel change you made
@@joselara7851 belray fork oil 5 wt and 20wt are almost the same properties as Rockshox, 5wt and 15wt ;)
This is the only video I've seen that actually shows the Recon. Thanks for your work getting this recorded and posted!
Glad to do it! Thanks for the comment!
Hi, I'm a mechanic. 30 years experience, But without videos like yours I have to try things and break them too in order to understand how they work. I'll diagnose and repair the shit out of a car, but ebikes use different a different philosophy. Allen fasteners, female screws, star devices, cassettes, etc. It's good to have content to refer to.
Yeah all the bike specific tools can be a little frustrating but I’m glad I can be a part of the community spreading the knowledge. I’ve learned a ton from other people’s videos too!
I didn't try any of this yet, but i must appriciate that you answered litteraly every single comment and helped everyone individualy!
I’m a man of the people!
Great video. Now I feel confident I can maintain my forks when needed. Cheers.
Thanks. Yeah it’s not too bad, basically just following instructions. Rockshox has detailed articles on all their stuff.
Thank you very much man. Now im gonna service my Fork by myself :) Greetings from Germany
Viel gluck! It’s not bad just take your time with it. I’ve linked the Rockshox guide in a few of these comments too so that will be helpful to you.
Thanks for the vid. Feeling more confident I can tackle this.
Best of luck to you!
Gunna have a go tomorrow too.
Be aware your lockout may not work after
After 50 year's of riding I've finally bought some AIR forks 😎👍 AWESOME
Nice! Enjoy the smoother ride!
Big fan brø 😍
Thanks!
Thank you for the guide. I have just increased the travel on my recon silver rl 29 from 130 to 150mm by removing the spacer. I did not removed the boots from stanchions, only unscrewed the bolt below, unscrewed the top cap and removed the air spring. The bike was on a stand, so fork was horisontal to the floor and not a single drop of oil came out that way. Rebound, compression adjustment and lock out work perfectly after reasembly. Significant difference with 15-20 psi less than before in the small fast bumps.
That’s awesome! I was wondering if that was possible after doing it the way I did it. Glad that everything still works too! Cheers!
just remowing the spacers? no new smaller added ????
can you make a video to follow your steps? pls
@@joselara7851 i did this and it was super easy
Did you remove the bottom bolts or just loosen them?
Muy buen video :). Tengo una duda.. sobre los 2 ml de aceite que le pones, puedes ser cualquier aceite? o recomiendas el 15 w o 5w? 09:08 min
excelet
Hey man awesome vid now i can experiment a bit with my travel on my kona honzo. But i have one question is there any adjustment needed on the damper because i have 120mm travel and want to change it to 140mm but i dont want to damage the damper do all the recon dampers have the same travel or how does that work?
Very good question. As far as I know, they are all the same but the fluid level varies. I didn’t add any fluid and now my lock out doesn’t work any more. I’m guessing adding some fluid would fix it but I really don’t know for sure.
A black washer with jagged knobs in the center fell out of one side I believe the damper side
At what point in the video did you see this? Hoping I didn’t lose it.
Stupid question but if for example you went from 160 to 130 would the fork be shorter and the stem be lower with bike on the ground? Or does the fork stay the same length and just travel is limited? Thanks
The entire front end would be lower with less stanchion showing
I have a rock shox 35s silver 130mm Can I do the process whit out all the service?just want to try more travel maybe 150mm, so to take out the tube whit the air shaft just release the air and taking out from the top or I have to take out all the chassis and unbolt from the bottom? Thanks I never do any suspension thing always talking to the bike shop but I just want to take out a spacer.
The 35 is a bit different. Check out this article: www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000005886_sm_2020_35_english_rev_a.pdf
Whether it's the rock shock judy gold or the silver, or the recon gold or the silver, can its travel be increased to 140mm, if when you buy it it comes in 120mm? I would really appreciate the answer since I don't know whether to buy it or not..., I like to push the bike hard and due to the thickness of the bars I would surely opt for the recon silver or gold that has 32mm diameter bars. thank you.
Answered in your comment on my Judy video
Hi mate nice video. Was the upgrade worth it? Did you notice an improvement after the service?
Not really any improvement in terms of feel. But I did like the additional travel mostly because it got the front of my bike to a higher position which just felt more comfortable. However my lockout stopped working. I think it just needs more fluid in the damper side since the travel is longer.
You can add a volume spacer to stiffen the fork if you don't want to or can't add travel
On most forks yes, but not on the Recon unfortunately.
you can go to a 3d printing service with a model for volume spacer for this fork. You can google the model as i did and someone else had it posted and it fits right into the top cap. it will cost you 5 bucks.
Thanks for the video! Do you think it will be possible to just cut the 20 mm spacer in the middle to and use one half (10mm) to get the fork to 140?
Maybe but I wouldn’t try it. I imagine it could mess things up if your cut isn’t completely straight.
At that point can’t you remove it altogether to make it 150? I have the same fork btw
👍great tuition👌my new ride will come with a recon RL 140mm, so its interesting that its serviceable, hows yours holding up after the service🤔
All was good from the service aspect of it but by increasing the travel my lockout stopped working. Had to add a little more fluid to the damper side then it worked again.
do you need to replace the crush washers if you servise or extend travel when its brand new
You definitely should. Once they’re crushed then they’re crushed. I didnt replace mine and discovered that one side was leaking oil.
Dude, you might lose that adjustment imbus tool. Keep it in your tool box. One dude I know upgraded his Marin fully mtb same as yours with a better fork but his frame cracked soon. The crack appeared on the welding between head tube and down tube so watch out and change the bike before your luck runs out. Trek bikes come with a lifetime warranty on frames. Cheers 🤘
I’ve heard of a few cracking but not enough to worry me. Had it for 3 years now so I’d think any defect would have shown itself by now.
can i just use the 15w oil for the increased travel instead of the 5w thats reccomended I dont wanna buy it
I didn’t want to either but in hindsight I really probably should have used the right stuff. You may be ok doing it but I definitely wouldn’t recommend using anything but what they call for.
Hello! I watched with interest your clip. Best wishes for your activity with bike life and a bonus tip from me just to see with you eyes and body some small detail importance. Try to use for some extra oil just for cleaning, maibe even twice replacing dirty oil coming off the sponges inserted in that oil, pressed repeatedly with finger until all dirt comes out. Then you can use that plastic cup but not necesary let them moist a while. Just replace like at 9:15 the oil, moist again clean sponges cuz anyway when you insert them into lower legs, some oil goes wrong trying to put them into position. You will be amazed how this can improve long term compared if it was done in the same way with isopropilic alcohol.
That makes sense. I did kind of wonder if the alcohol was too harsh. Next time I’m doing a fork service I will do your method. Thanks!
@@downtoridemtb My pleasure! God bless us all!
is it bad if i just unscrewed the air spring cap and the air tube popped up gently (probably by a little air)? I just wanted to see if the tokens were mounted, but I got scared that the air tube popped out and I pushed it back and turned it off. I'm a little worried that oil spilled from where the travel spacers are located. Does this situation require service?
That’s hard to say. If it lifted up from the bottom of the air tube then it is possible that oil leaked out. There isn’t much oil in the air chamber to begin with so maybe only a couple drops. Either way, I’d probably take it apart and replace the fluids.
@@downtoridemtb Thanks for the reply, I've looked it over again and it seems to me that everything was in place the whole time. After unscrewing the air tube, it was still slightly springing back, so that last white part probably didn't fall out of the air tube. And it slid out because I gently bent fork and there was pressure. when I slid everything into place, I didn't hear a click or feel any resistance, and everything works properly. But I will do service soon anyway, because clearly in the compression lock I can hear a click when the fork is moving up quickly. If I close the lock halfway the click is even louder and only a slight quick movement is needed to hear it. And I forgot I say about rockshox 35 silver but its bit similar. Thanks!
Great video. Can I do the same to a rockshox Judy silver?
I think so. I have a used Judy to put in another bike so I’ll be taking it apart for service sometime soon
Dose this work with all Recon fork, old and new or is there a year that only have this option
The article I followed was for 2018-2020:
www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000005918_service_manual_2018-2020_judy_30_recon_english_rev_a_0.pdf
If yours is even older you might be able to find the necessary article on the Sram/Rockshox site.
Thanks! IS IT ALSO working with the judy silver? I will change from hardtail to fully so i want my judy go from 100 to 120. Will that work?
The article I followed is linked below. The Judy may need a different part but it should be a very similar process:
www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000005918_service_manual_2018-2020_judy_30_recon_english_rev_a_0.pdf
@@downtoridemtbThanks!
Welcome!
think if it would also work with 9 × 100 qr and with 1 1/8 straight? So, for example, a 100mm Recon Silver fork on 150mm?
Changing the travel that much would require you to change the amount of fluid in the damper side. Even the amount I changed mine made my lockout stop working. I don’t understand why or how but it has something to do with the correct amount of fluid in the damper side.
@@downtoridemtb So I am aware that you have to change the oil level of the fork when you travel the fork higher
It is so when you turn the lockout on then no oil flows into the cartridge that means that the fork is closed, if you turn off the lockout then the oil flows through the cartridge again, the fork can spring again.
You'd have to put more fork oil in so the cartridge can fight the oil
I have a recon Rl and it’s a 130 mm... to increase to 140 mm do I need the all travel spacers? Or can I just take them out? Or would I be able to cut the one in half being that they are pretty much just stacked
I did a little digging and found out I will just have to remove the spacer that is currently in there. Shouldn’t have to buy different ones. m.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=215729
I’m pretty sure you’ll be at 150mm if you do that.
hey I removed the whole spacer to reach 150mm and now my lock out doesnt work. A guy tell me it’s because of that spacers I removed. it should at least lock at some point but its just a bit stiffer
Mine is doing the same thing. I think it is the amount of oil in the damper side. According to Rockshox, 130-140mm should have the same amount of oil. Less than 130 gets less oil. But if they were a little light on the oil in the factory, it may have been ok at 130mm but is not ok at 140 or more.
The maintenance manual for my Recon indicates that there crush washers and o-rings on the bolts that need to be replaced. Did your fork have these? Did you have any issues with fluid leaking afterwards?
Best practice is to replace them. I did not and actually did have a little leakage. Snugged it down a bit more and it was fine after that.
@@downtoridemtb That's real talk! The 200 hr service kit is unavailable for my fork. Luckily there is an upgrade kit that comes with this washers. Rockshox is winning money!
nice video.. btw, is 130mm travel play is the default for rockshocks recon(gold or silver)? thanks
I don’t think there is a default. It’s whatever the bike manufacturer specs out.
🤔do you push in the rebound key to adjust, or does yours click, first time recon, so not sure👍
Just turn it and it clicks. There are probably only 5 or 6 clicks to adjust it.
can i do this on a sxc32 fork that is on giant talon 1 2022 edition. It is air suspension. I found no videos or information on this.
Thankyou
I’m really not sure. It might be possible to do but I’d guess the process is different.
Im thinking of getting a rockshox recon silver RL, and its 100mm qr version and im not sure if they go to 120mm?
I’d guess that they are the same internally
I believe that fork is 80-120 if I remember correctly
Hi. I have a 2020 rockshox recon RL 120mm fork. I think it's the same as your fork.Can I lift this fork travel to 150mm or higher like you do?
Yes but 150mm is the max you can go to. I’d caution again going that high if the bike was designed for 120mm.
Hi...how about 120 to 100? Is it possible?
Thanks for this video! I literally asked this question in my video today!
I'm wanting to increase mine from 100mm to 120mm and wasn't sure what was involved.
Are there crush washers on the bottom bolts that need to be replaced? A mechanic told me there was. 🤷♂️
Yes there are crush washers. I think they recommend replacing as part of the 200 hour service. I just reused them. Check out this document:
www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000005918_service_manual_2018-2020_judy_30_recon_english_rev_a_0.pdf
@@downtoridemtb ok cool. I didn't want to buy the whole service kit just for those washers.
Thanks.
Right on, good luck!
@@downtoridemtb well . . . You inspired me. I did it! I tore into it and took out the spacer. I was really nervous, but it turned out great!
But this puzzles me. With 100mm: my sag at 20% required 100psi.
With 120mm: my sag at 20% requires 85psi. 🤷♂️
It's not a problem, just weird.
Nice! Do you notice a difference riding? I really don’t from my 10mm change. That is weird about the sag. Must be some scientific reason but my brain can’t understand why.
Any update how the travel increase has held up?
Working perfectly but honestly I don’t really notice any difference when riding.
nice man! does the 100mm version is convertible as well?
Yes, just keep in mind that you’ll need to add fluid to the damper side if you increase it by much
hi can you put a photo before and after assembly thanks
I don’t have any that really show the difference because they’re not from the same angle
i took my spacer out and cut it in half so i just got 130-140mm travel. its not the right way but i am poor:)(
to go from 130 to 150 do i remove that whole double spacer
Yes
I subscribed and liked to help your channel, I suggest you invest in a microphone to help with the audio. Otherwise, two thumbs up!!!!
As much as I don’t want the added complication of more equipment, you are 100% right. Got any suggestions of a mic for a GoPro hero 8 black?
what happends if u dont put new 5w30 oil in the fork
Probably just increased friction. You lose a lot taking things apart. I would suggest using the proper oil though unlike what I did.
Just to know you can't do this with the 120mm travel version the 120mm version doesn't have any spacers for some reason.
Interesting, I wonder why it’s different
They have one Version for 80 100 120 and one for 130 140 150. So you can only go from 80 to 120 or 100 to 120... or from 130 to 140 etc.
I wanted to upgrade to the Rockshox yari but it comes with 160mm. I have the same bike. Would this screw it up or can I limit the yaris travel? Also if you took out a spacer to give you more travel the if I did get the Yari with 160 I could put spacers to bring it down to 150 or 140...right?
I’m really not sure if you can reduce the travel on the Yari. I would definitely not run a 160mm fork though. I’d look for forks that come in the travel you want. Maybe a Rockshox 35 gold or a Pike (more expensive). Or if you want to get away from Rockshox, maybe a Marzochi Bomber Z2 or Fox 34. Good luck
@@downtoridemtb I can get a 150mm yari for $499
I guess it depends on your riding style and the type of trails you ride and how you want the bike to feel. I personally wouldn’t want to go over 140 but that’s just me.
@@downtoridemtb I figured it out. I can buy the Yari in 150mm and then get the RockShox Debonair C1 Air Spring upgrade Kit - 140mm for $39. So $499 for the fork and $39 for the kit and I will have a fork that is as good as a RockShox Lyrik.
Hell yeah that’s awesome! Let me know how you like it. Stay tuned for tomorrow’s video too, long term review of my bike. Curious if you share my opinion on everything...
Can i change travel Rockshox Recon TA 15x100 non boost?
Should be the same but I’m not 100% sure
Would it be possible to just remove the bottom bolt from the air side, remove the top cap, and pull the cartridge out? I didn't see a circlip or anything holding the cartridge in so I'm assuming you could? The reason I ask is seems like I could catch the oil from that leg (Maybe just plug the hole so it stays inside?) pull the cartridge out and remove the spacer then throw it back in and reinstall everything without having to buy more oil or mess with the other leg? It's a brand new fork and I'd just like to extend the travel without having to spend more money out of pocket? Being extra cheap lol
I think everything you are saying is possible. If you break free that lower bolt and tap it out while the fork is inverted, then you shouldn’t lose any fluid. Then plug the hole, flip it right side up, and proceed removing the air chamber. Should work. Report back so others will know.
@@downtoridemtb just did it tonight and took about 15 min. Removed just the air side bottom bolt. Plugged the hole, flipped over pulled out the cartridge and removed the spacer, slid back in, flipped over and removed the plug and reinstalled the bolt…done and no oil loss!
Dude that’s awesome! If I still had that fork, I’d do an updated video of the process.
What did you use to plug the fork?
@@domanater480 I wanted to use a plug but couldn't find one around the house so I just put a piece of 3m two side tape over it. I thought about stuffing one of those soft ear plugs in there or a cap from a caulk tube or something.
hello the pin of the fork is 15x100 or 15x110boost
Mine is 15x110. Not sure if the process is any different for others.
Please give me the specifications of the travel pad
I have a link in the description for them
Do you know if RS Revelation can be modified this way?
You probably need to change the entire air shaft. I’d say check with your local bike shop or Worldwide Cyclery. If you give Worldwide the fork model code they can help you out.
So the spacers are on one side of the fork?
Yes, air side
Whats the max travel with this fork?
150mm
Hello,
Could you tell me the part number of the rebound adjuster? I lost mine.
I do not know the part number. But with the limited amount of clicks it is kind of a set it and forget it adjustment, so you could just use a hex key to do that.
@@downtoridemtb The number is stamped on the part itself.
Oh right on. It’s very hard to read but it is either 43-4015-101-000 2 or 43-1015-101-000 2
@@downtoridemtb Thanks a lot, man. I appreciate it.
Welcome!
I had 120mm I opend them up and there were no spacers so I took that long rubber boot thing out and now I have 130mm, was it safe taking that out
I think that was probably a bad idea. Do you have a Rekon Gold? Apparently the internals are different. Check out page 35 in this
www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000005918_service_manual_2018-2020_judy_30_recon_english_rev_a_0.pdf
@@downtoridemtb no its a recon silver 2018 model I've done some research that was just the top out bumper and it hasn't been topping out, riding a bike park on it tommorow.
Edit: the internals look the same as the 120mm recon gold but without the spring
Good luck. I’d definitely be a little sketched out by having it that way but I just don’t full understand how the spacers even work on those other models. It almost looks like you need a different shaft.
@@downtoridemtb I trimmed the bumper in half and it rides even better than before and is still 130mm, have you got a link for those crush washers though I believe it's slowly leaking
I don’t have a link to them and I know some of those parts can be confusing to know which model so I don’t want to look and send you the wrong thing. Good luck!
Is it safe to run a fork with no spacers in it ?
In the case of this fork, you could remove the double spacer and not replace it with the single and as far as I know that would be ok. You would not want to remove any of those other pieces though. But again, I’m not a bike mechanic so do at your own risk.
Why can't you do 150? Is it not safe or do you just not want that much travel?
I think it would be safe but I think it would effect the geometry too much.
How much money does it cost to service the fork..
Free if you do it yourself!
What if i just take out the small spacer, what would happen
If you mean take out take out the 2 spacers that are basically molded as one and not add the single one back in… it would make it 150mm travel.
Thanks a lot 🔥
Welcome!
i'm sure if you titled this video recon/judy fork service it would get some more views :D. Same for the judy except for the amount of oil needed. 2ml for the 5w, and 15ml for the 15w on the judy ;)
Thanks for the suggestion. I actually got a Judy for an upcoming project and it probably needs service so I may just make a video on it specifically.
@@downtoridemtb ya np man. Good video though, hardly any videos on these rockshox forks. My Judy silver tk solo air A3 model went from 100mm of exposed stanchion to 13.5cm of exposed stanchion which is 135mm so..... Yea lol. Thought it was supposed to go from 100mm to 120mm. When you do the Judy, the retaining clip on the bottom of the stanchion when you take it apart is a press fit retaining pin, you'll need a flat head screwdriver to pry up on it and a paper towel to keep from scratching the tube or damaging the plastic. You literally pry up until it comes off then you can slide the inners out of the station, sometimes it doesn't all come out so you'll have to check the inside to make sure you got everything haha. After the service to put that annoying plastic retainer back on, you'll need to tighten the valve cap on top all the way, turn the fork upside down, rest the clip on top of where it needs to be pushed on, get a socket to press down with your hand so it's going down evenly on your clip and it will pop into place. You'll need some muscle no lie lol and it can be a bit of a pain. Idk why they didn't design them to use snap rings because these plastic clips suck lol. Spring side 2ml of 5w up top, 10ml of 15w oil on bottom, damper side is 5ml of 15w oil on bottom, shouldn't need to add any up top on damper side, I'll subscribe so if you do the video on it I can save it for reference in the future.
@@GlorifyGodInEverything wow thanks for those tips. I was pretty much expecting the same thing as the Recon but good to know in advance that it isn’t the case. I think I follow what you’re saying but I might just have to see it to fully understand. I’ll check out their service manual too before I do it. Thanks again!
@@downtoridemtb haha, I mean it's not to bad, you'll be good so long as you follow the manual and use a bit of logic ;) biggest hurdle will be that retaining pin (it's the black circle clips with teeth on the bottom of the stanchions when you slide the fork apart into 2 pieces).
This rhockshock recon 15x100 or 15x110mm
15x110
My 100mm recon silver had 1 big spacer that had 4 of those tokens on it, I removed it and now fork is at like 150mm. Is this ok?
Depends. If it’s going on a frame designed for 100mm then that is not good for multiple reasons. Plus you’re going to have to add more fluid to the damper side for it to work properly. Rockshox has a chart somewhere that shows how much fluid it should have in relation to the travel.
@@downtoridemtb I only wanted 120mm but it was just one big token, can you cut them in half ?
@@domanater480 I would think that if you can cut it perfectly flat, then it would be ok. Personally I wouldn’t do it, and for liability reasons I wouldn’t recommend it.
Let’s say I wanted 150 travel do I really need to buy those spacers
Nope just remove that double spacer. Just be aware that your lockout may not work after. Mine doesn’t and other people reported the same.
@@downtoridemtb oh no
Yeah I think it has to do with the volume of the oil in the damper side. Should be more with more travel. I think. I’m about to replace this fork altogether so I’m not too concerned. I may look into it further once it’s off the bike.
PUT A TINY BIT OF THAT BUTTER INSIDE WHERE THE FOAM RIMG GOES.....IT WILL STICK
Smart thinking!
@@downtoridemtb OLD SCHOOL TRICK
why didn't you go 150mm all the way?
i got recon RL on 130mm stock, planning to make it 150mm. mind sharing your thoughts about it?
I just didn’t want to mess with the intended geometry too much. That said, I really don’t notice any difference by going to 140mm. If I did more downhill I’d consider 150mm but around here it just isn’t necessary.
@@downtoridemtb I see, thanks for your feedback. cheers.
@@aerys0661 cheers!
Many hours later lmdao 🤣
Bro, your seat looks like its 3' above the bars. Lol
I got long legs!
@@downtoridemtb 🤣 Love it
Where on earth did you hear about a fallacy engineer's know what there doing??
Bro unless said engineer has done a trade before they became a engineer
Said engineer has absolutely know idea!! of real world applications.
It’s astonishing that we don’t have buildings toppling over everywhere since those engineers aren’t out there digging holes in the ground, mixing concrete and pouring footings.
@@downtoridemtb You would be surprised how many engineers it takes to actually do that my dude. I think you missed his point. I'm an engineer and pretty much all the engineers I work with that didn't have regular jobs before are pretty much clueless book taught dingleberries.
Fair enough. I’m sure that is true. At the same time, I’m not going to pretend that I know more than an engineer about how much stress a head tube can take at what angles with what metal thicknesses and so on.
NEVER USE PETROLEUM BASED LUBRICANT ON SILICONE BASED LUBRICANT APPLICATIONS!!!!
I saw the other video where you replaced this fork because it was leaking. You killed the seals because you used a petroleum based lubricant instead of a silicone based lubricant. Recommending people use motor oil in their suspension is extremely irresponsible and idiotic. Most of these people don't know the difference between petroleum and silicone based lubricants and why each are used in different applications. If you don't know the difference, you shouldn't be making recommendations. I wonder how many people have swelled and cracking seals because of this video. 🤦♂️
I didn’t recommend anyone do anything. I don’t think I could have made it any clearer that this was what I was doing and I was not recommending that anyone do the same. Also it was synthetic so it’s not petroleum based at all. And also I replaced the fork because I wanted a better fork. It leaked because I didn’t replace the crush washers.
Interesting I didn’t know that. I’ll be pulling that fork back apart to adjust the travel again for an upcoming project. We’ll see how the seals look and I’ll replace if needed. Either way I’ll use the correct lubricant this time. Thanks for clarifying.
@Matthew Kerhin thanks!
@@downtoridemtb lmao! All motor oil is petroleum based. Like I said, you shouldn't be making how to Videos if you don't know how to. What's next? Hair gel for brake fluid?
@@dtuner9200 too viscous… maybe hairspray tho!