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In-Command System Blows Fuse & RV Fridge Not Getting Cold - My RV Works
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- Опубликовано: 26 май 2022
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My RV Works, Inc., Certified RV Technician, Darren Koepp, continues the 2nd season of “Ten Minutes With A Tech”.
Our first question comes from a viewer in Port Orchard, Washington. When he attempts to turn on his water pump with his In-Command system, a fuse blows. Join Darren as he provides some troubleshooting tips and provides basic information about the In-Command Control System.
Our second question comes from Rick in Tennessee. His refrigerator isn't getting cold, despite replacing fans, the thermostat, and adjusting the thermistor. Join Darren as he discusses RV fridge operation and what might be preventing this one from getting cold.
Stay tuned for the rest of the 2nd season of the show where more questions will get answered!
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Videos Mentioned In This Video:
“How To Determine If Your RV Refrigerator Cooling Unit Has Failed PLUS RV Fridge Component Overview”
• How To Determine If Yo...
“RV Refrigerator Cooling Performance Issues - Installing A Baffle To Shed Heat From The Cooling Unit.”
• RV Refrigerator Coolin...
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New videos every Friday! And bonus videos here and there!
If you are in need of RV Repairs in the Olympic Peninsula area of Washington state, submit a service request on our website at myrvworks.com today!
This is Rick in Tn. Thanks for the attention you gave me on your video. The baffling was redone by me, as it was shoddy (being nice) so I replaced it ensuring the gaps were minimal. I should have said that in my email, I'm quite good at Sheetmetal work. The freezer will freeze but the refrigerator doesn't cool. I don't understand why. I replaced the thermister with new, and double checked the fuses as there are two on the circuit board. The fans have been replaced, and the Luan panel leans on the back of the refrigerator assuring a zero gap to the plumbing to attain maximum cooling. You mentioned there are two things you can think of so I assume one is the ducting at the top of the refrigerator and the other is the air gap on the back of the refrigerator.
Yes I enjoy and watch your videos because I think you have great knowledge and are quite professional in your presentation, explaining things in layman's terms. Thank you for that.
I just saw your comment, after I sent mine to Darren. I have the same issue, my fridge is a Dometic. I was curious what you did to fix the problem?
The plant is a non-native Rhododendron, the give away is the leaves for that it's a rhododendron, the bloom says it's not native
(our area rhody's grow well, there are both native types and types imported from Asia, this looks like one from Asia)
Thanks Daren the BCM issue was a great help
Informative. If you could have a trailer on had to show us so that we get a better understanding, that sure would be nice. Good video.
No one that works on trailers ever owns a trailer haha
Thank you for this suggestion! We usually demonstrate in our shop area since we live/work in our campers, but we will take this suggestion and use it when it fits with the question. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Love the new intro btw
Looks like possibly a Japanese Maple
On the frig, one thing that is easy to do is put a small external fan blowing into the cavity. Aim it at the cooling fins. If the refrigerator cools, then there is a ventilation problem.
The new stuff is the most important stuff to cover, thanks.
Enjoy the information. Have you done any on auto leveling jacks for class A? My rear jacks take forever to clear up. Last inch is the problem. Cleaned and lubed, no help….
Very informative, Thanks
Great info! I do have a question. A friend ofd mine has an older Lance truck camper with a fridge that is freezing up on 12v and shore power. It's a Dometic Royal RM3663. At first I thought it may be just the thermistor, but since it can't be shut off, could this be the board? It freezes in hyper mode! Thank you!
Hi Darren two brief questions... I want to perform a water column test on my NORCOLD RM306RM8 RV refrigerator. It has the low, medium, high LP temperature setting dial that I imagine controls the flame height/intensity. What would the best connection point in order to get an accurate reading? Secondly, when you blow out the lp lines with compressed air to remove contamination would you remove the output hose from the regulator and then blow compressed air from the far Side of the RV like at a stove or refrigerator LP supply line? What PSI do you normally use? Thank you.
I have a 2018 40ah phaeton. The inverter/charger has a built-in equalization function. Yesterday, my propane detector started to go off. I put a fan on it, and it stopped, when I took the fan away it alarmed again. So I put a fan on it again turned off the propane at the tank, went to dinner, alarm stopped. When we returned removed fan, no alarm. Today, I turned propane back on, no alarm?????. Previously before this all started I started a battery equalization. Could the higher voltage cause the detector to malfunction?
Still waiting on info on 12 volt compressor fridges…..
I just found you. My old norcold fridge keeps blowing the 7amp fuse in the new control box. I'll put a new fuse in, the fridge will work for maybe an hour, start to get cold then blow the fuse and switch over to gas. Any ideas?
Sounds like you have a faulty heating element. On our refrigerator playlist we have a few videos on how to test those.
My freezer works but my fridge doesn’t. What do you think the issue is?
Mine also. Rick in Tn
both of you guys have a unit that isn't working properly for whatever reason. the freezer is just below freezing, means the fridge also isn't at optimum. The two work in synchro if that makes sense. The freezer should be closer to 0° and the fridge simply above freezing in the high 30s. Any number of things could cause this but check whether it happens only on propane or electric, or perhaps there is some ventilation issues behind the fridge. Etc