I did a few extra steps with removing the brake calipers and loosening up the struts but I wanted to give it a check and also prepping for coilover install. Hope you enjoy it.
For anyone else looking for what the issue was, it was the charcoal canister. Appreciate the videos man! Just watched this series on your refueling issue (because I have the same issue) and couldn't find a final video showing the fix. I saw that you replied to someone on your "DYNO DAY" video saying it was the canister. So I thought I'd share here for anyone chasing the same problem. Thanks again!
I appreciate the video explanation, I have a 2000 Subaru Forester living in a "severe environment." Rust is huge where I live and the first thing to rust was a fuel line, that was an easy fix, now the tank rusted a hole. So, I appreciate the tips and tricks to get this out.
Interesting way of doing this, In the past I did it a little differently; - Disconnect struts from subframe (or chassis) either or works - Disconnect trailing arms - Disconnect rear sway bar mounts to the chassis (leave the end links installed) - Disconnect two MASSIVE bolts on right and left side of rear subframe. Once that's done the whole assembly (hubs/ brakes/ rear sway bar) should all drop out and away
I considered this way but I just didn’t have the space to do it . That garage was super small so having it in pieces I was able to line the walls and stack things. Haha, it was still cramped but it worked.
i just bought a 2004 subaru and one week later the tank started leaking like crazy. my mechanic confirmed i need a new tank and i was shocked to hear how expensive the repair is! now i know why.
So, the fuel filler hose at 8:46 is about 2" above your finger. I have a gas leak when filling up from this spot. Do you know if there's any feasible way of replacing this hose up to and including cutting an access panel in the hatch floor above? It looks as though there's a frame rail directly above it with about 1-2" of clearance, and i don't want to cut through anything aside from sheet metal that i can throw a patch over. Any thoughts?
I definitely do not recommend trying to cut a hole in attempt to fix it. That’s just me though. That’s amusing because so many people have told me that I should just have cut out the back side of my car to replace that fuel vent valve. I would remove any and everything possible to just replace the damaged hose. That’s all I got for ya boss. Thanks for watching and engaging. I appreciate it. And I hope that you are able to get your hose fixed. Cheers!
Awesome job making the video man. I literally started making repair videos because of how bad mechanics typically are as videographers and you did well.
"Fantastic video! I have a question: it seems the differential has been removed. Do we need to add back the differential fluid before reinstalling it? What about the transmission fluid? I'm having my Service D and a tank replacement done on my 2020 Forester due to animal damage (which is covered by warranty). I'm wondering if any part of the tank replacement is related to the differential or transmission fluid replacement. Probably save some money on my service D
how come you don'y have to remove the fuel pump? or the power source to the fuel pump? i'm confused. like it just a bracket and few lines each side. great video. thank you so much
The reason is because it’s all one unit back there. Once the tank is lowered there is an electrical connector to disconnect but that’s it. Great question though. Thanks for engaging. And thank you for the comment.
@@AdrianBilladeau ahhh perfect. i want to do this to restore underneath. really good video. subscribed. i watch many many hours of subaru fixing. you are very good.
No it was all of the time. The vent valve also wasn’t the issue either. I misdiagnosed the charcoal canister. The charcoal canister was not allowing any of the displaced air to escape.
@@Gamer47645 I have yet to replace the entire canister. I pull the hose off that runs from the vent valve to the canister during fill up. It is rather annoying but it is better than dropping close to 400 euro for a new one. I will replace it at some point though. I just want to spend those funds on finishing out some suspension work.
No, I never had a code pop up. I was trying to solve the issue of taking forever to fill up at the pump. Meaning I could only get in a small amount of fuel before the pump would kick off.
i need to drop my tank to repair a hole, and i am going to clean up cross member subframe etc, is there any extra bushing hiden other than the cross member ones and rear diff ones ? i would like to replace all the tiny parts while im am in there
About to dive into this on my 2001 Forester. A little worried, but you make it look doable. Any other parts/ hoses/ etc. I should go ahead and replace while i'm in there? Dealership told me that vents and hoses needed replacing.
Na, don't worry. You can totally do it! I would look at what you can see and make a judgment on replacing it. If it is down though for sure do the vents. I personally didn't have to replace any hoses. But I did clean everything (because I am a bit crazy.) Made it easer to inspect also. Honestly the hardest part was disconnecting the fuel lines from the hard lines and then making sure that the tank was level and even when lowering and raising. I think it goes without saying but make sure the tank is almost empty before doing this job. Makes it a lot easier to handle. Outside of that I do not have any recommendations Will. Maybe take some pictures throughout the process and bag/ label nuts and bolts. Best of luck Will!
I would assume so however, I am not 100% sure. To my knowledge, most of the platforms (in the same generations) are pretty close in design frame-wise. But again I can not say for certain. I think disassembly would be similar though.
Adrian-about a year later, I saw your U Tube post-cuz I also have problem related to my 06 OB fuel tank vapor outlet. It rusted off! 1.*** Under the car, Use additional supports, I built 2x10 wooden steps with 2x4 shims. 2. Perhaps, U could remove with a grinder a sheet metal window above the valve, so can have access. Too much work for a stupid valve replacement ! Subaru must b held accountable!.
Umm a few could be a CEL, pressure build up in your tank, poor fuel economy, failed emissions test, not being able to fill your tank properly ( meaning you basically have to trickle in fuel otherwise pump will shut off.) Hope that kinda helps out. Are you having issues?
@@AdrianBilladeauhey thanks for the reply! So... if I fill my gas tank about half way. When I drive it smells like gas in the car and driving it about 10 miles uses about a half a quarter tank. I have no check engine lights or anything.
@@AdrianBilladeau nope, no puddles. I'm thinking it might be a leak too but idk. I drive a 2008 impreza 2.5i wagon. I just don't want to take the whole thing apart replace the tank just to find out it wasn't the tank.
@@853rudedogs2 how did you find out about the rust in the tank ? .. i am still juggling between installing a new one or reparing the old one.. but i did not think that there could be rust inside as well
@@jean-philippelangevin932 mechanic tested fuel pressure or flow, found it low 2L/min ? needs to be at least 4, checked pump found dodgy chinese pump from previous punk kid owner that said it was a new pump, it was fouled with rust, mechanic inspected rest of tank and said it is rusty, probably previously filled with e85 and had not been used for a couple years , so likey cause of rust.We replaced pump with hard to find geniune walbro, most are fakes on ebay, and added new fuel filter. After a few months engine would not start suddenly, i thought it was immobilser or key responder, but found wiring to pump under seat had burnt out, probably due to pump blockage again. The fuel filter full of rust too. Im looking for cheap solution but not doing anything about has already cost me 1000 quid, i was thinking that i might stick a strong magnet on a piece of string into the tank and see if it can attract any of the rust, or to us some type of agitator and pump,take the tank filer off to suck the fuel out and filter it of the rust particles ,fill it with rust can convertor, or viniger and keep pumping it out till it clean.....or just pay someone to rip it out clean it or put new one in....im not sure, let me know when you have quick fix!
Try installing a new clutch in a car in the the gravel and then it starts raining. Or the time i did in a parking lot and the car was in the lowest point of a huge parking lot. Again it started raining and it was cold. I was soaked. Learned a lesson. The higher in a parking lot you are the LESS water goes under you. The lower the spot the MORE water gets you all wet. Same thing on a race track in the rain. Stay high and less water under your tires go low and all that surface area brings MORE water and less traction.
You would think huh? However, it is not accessible via the back seat. There are access panels for the far left and right sides of the tank though. Passenger side is for the fuel pump assembly and the driver side is for lines and a couple of connectors if I remember correctly.
Dude I’m way older than you and this job sucked. I was so glad to hear ya say I’m done after getting it down cause I sure was great video really explaining it so well and making it look simple cause it’s not!
Hi Brent. I appreciate the engagement sir. I am glad that it helped you out. It’s definitely a job for sure. Happy holidays and happy new year. Cheers!
I personally did not get one after this job. I didn’t mess with the alignment bolts on the lateral control arms. Looking back I would leave all that attached. Just remove the three nuts on the strut tower to release the shocks. That way once everything else is removed/disconnected you can pull it (the entire rear subframe assembly) all out at once as a complete unit.
This tells me I can change my tank and I need to tell the junk yard not to fucking touch any of those hoses and valves and shit on top. Idgaf. Leave all the hoses and valves and bs bc I dont want to have to fuck with switching all those over on a new tank. Junkyard it is for sure.
Well if you are having the same issue I may have the solution. I finally found that it was my charcoal canister this whole time. I tested it the wrong way. I do not know what you have checked thus far but give this a try and see if it works. If you crawl under your car and locate the canister remove the hose that is in the center. It should read "fuel tank" on the canister where the hose is. That is the line coming from the vent valve in this video. Remove it and then fill up at a pump. Hopefully this is the issue for you. Best of luck and thanks again for watching and engaging.
Hahaha! I would be lying if I said that I didn’t consider this as an option. It’s all good though. I was able to do a lot of cleaning while everything was down. I enjoyed the experience.
Steve ever model is different I did it on a 08 legacy but you can look up diagrams that will give you reference points so you can make the right cut, good luck 👍🏼 measure 30 times cut once 😉
@@rockducati6961 Thanks for the response. It seems like in the 04 Forester there's a seat bracket right where you'd think you need to cut, so investigating that. Cheers!
I did a few extra steps with removing the brake calipers and loosening up the struts but I wanted to give it a check and also prepping for coilover install. Hope you enjoy it.
For anyone else looking for what the issue was, it was the charcoal canister.
Appreciate the videos man! Just watched this series on your refueling issue (because I have the same issue) and couldn't find a final video showing the fix. I saw that you replied to someone on your "DYNO DAY" video saying it was the canister. So I thought I'd share here for anyone chasing the same problem. Thanks again!
@@zlaymon many thanks!
I appreciate the video explanation, I have a 2000 Subaru Forester living in a "severe environment." Rust is huge where I live and the first thing to rust was a fuel line, that was an easy fix, now the tank rusted a hole. So, I appreciate the tips and tricks to get this out.
But Question, did you need to remove the rear suspension? Because I’m only replacing the tank.
Interesting way of doing this, In the past I did it a little differently;
- Disconnect struts from subframe (or chassis) either or works
- Disconnect trailing arms
- Disconnect rear sway bar mounts to the chassis (leave the end links installed)
- Disconnect two MASSIVE bolts on right and left side of rear subframe.
Once that's done the whole assembly (hubs/ brakes/ rear sway bar) should all drop out and away
I considered this way but I just didn’t have the space to do it . That garage was super small so having it in pieces I was able to line the walls and stack things. Haha, it was still cramped but it worked.
i just bought a 2004 subaru and one week later the tank started leaking like crazy. my mechanic confirmed i need a new tank and i was shocked to hear how expensive the repair is! now i know why.
So, the fuel filler hose at 8:46 is about 2" above your finger.
I have a gas leak when filling up from this spot. Do you know if there's any feasible way of replacing this hose up to and including cutting an access panel in the hatch floor above?
It looks as though there's a frame rail directly above it with about 1-2" of clearance, and i don't want to cut through anything aside from sheet metal that i can throw a patch over.
Any thoughts?
I definitely do not recommend trying to cut a hole in attempt to fix it. That’s just me though. That’s amusing because so many people have told me that I should just have cut out the back side of my car to replace that fuel vent valve.
I would remove any and everything possible to just replace the damaged hose. That’s all I got for ya boss. Thanks for watching and engaging. I appreciate it. And I hope that you are able to get your hose fixed. Cheers!
Awesome job making the video man. I literally started making repair videos because of how bad mechanics typically are as videographers and you did well.
I really appreciate that man. I try to capture it so that hopefully anyone can follow along.
"Fantastic video! I have a question: it seems the differential has been removed. Do we need to add back the differential fluid before reinstalling it? What about the transmission fluid? I'm having my Service D and a tank replacement done on my 2020 Forester due to animal damage (which is covered by warranty). I'm wondering if any part of the tank replacement is related to the differential or transmission fluid replacement. Probably save some money on my service D
@@choityler2036 neither of those components need to be drained for removal.
@@AdrianBilladeau this is an powerful input, thank you so much for experience!💪
how come you don'y have to remove the fuel pump? or the power source to the fuel pump? i'm confused. like it just a bracket and few lines each side. great video. thank you so much
The reason is because it’s all one unit back there. Once the tank is lowered there is an electrical connector to disconnect but that’s it. Great question though. Thanks for engaging. And thank you for the comment.
@@AdrianBilladeau ahhh perfect. i want to do this to restore underneath. really good video. subscribed. i watch many many hours of subaru fixing. you are very good.
Your issue with filling up your car was it only when the car gets close to being full? Basically the nozzle clicks even though it’s not fully filled.
No it was all of the time. The vent valve also wasn’t the issue either. I misdiagnosed the charcoal canister. The charcoal canister was not allowing any of the displaced air to escape.
@@AdrianBilladeau Did you end up replacing the entire canister of just clean it out?
@@Gamer47645 I have yet to replace the entire canister. I pull the hose off that runs from the vent valve to the canister during fill up. It is rather annoying but it is better than dropping close to 400 euro for a new one. I will replace it at some point though. I just want to spend those funds on finishing out some suspension work.
Did you have code p0442, small evap leak?
No, I never had a code pop up. I was trying to solve the issue of taking forever to fill up at the pump. Meaning I could only get in a small amount of fuel before the pump would kick off.
i need to drop my tank to repair a hole, and i am going to clean up cross member subframe etc, is there any extra bushing hiden other than the cross member ones and rear diff ones ? i would like to replace all the tiny parts while im am in there
Awesome! Best of luck getting this task knocked out. But to answer your question, no there were no other bushings hidden.
About to dive into this on my 2001 Forester. A little worried, but you make it look doable. Any other parts/ hoses/ etc. I should go ahead and replace while i'm in there? Dealership told me that vents and hoses needed replacing.
Na, don't worry. You can totally do it! I would look at what you can see and make a judgment on replacing it. If it is down though for sure do the vents. I personally didn't have to replace any hoses. But I did clean everything (because I am a bit crazy.) Made it easer to inspect also.
Honestly the hardest part was disconnecting the fuel lines from the hard lines and then making sure that the tank was level and even when lowering and raising. I think it goes without saying but make sure the tank is almost empty before doing this job. Makes it a lot easier to handle.
Outside of that I do not have any recommendations Will. Maybe take some pictures throughout the process and bag/ label nuts and bolts. Best of luck Will!
Is this the same on an 03 baja?
I would assume so however, I am not 100% sure. To my knowledge, most of the platforms (in the same generations) are pretty close in design frame-wise. But again I can not say for certain. I think disassembly would be similar though.
What about the fuel pump? Do u need to disconnect from inside car ? In boot/back seat area
No you do not need to disconnect the fuel pump.
@@AdrianBilladeau oh ok. I remember when I changed fuel pump I had to unplug x3 connectors. Do u have to do ths? Thanks sorry last question
@@rebel.mma.youtube No it all can stay connected. The 3 hard lines I pointed out on the dirver side are the only ones to disconnect.
@@AdrianBilladeau thank u
any part numbers for the vent valve?
Yea it’s in the first few seconds of the video.
We bought a 2 post hoist for upcoming jobs like this.
That will definitely be beneficial. I’ll have one of those at some point.
Adrian-about a year later, I saw your U Tube post-cuz I also have problem related to my 06 OB fuel tank vapor outlet. It rusted off!
1.*** Under the car, Use additional supports, I built 2x10 wooden steps with 2x4 shims.
2. Perhaps, U could remove with a grinder a sheet metal window above the valve, so can have access. Too much work for a stupid valve replacement ! Subaru must b held accountable!.
What are the symptoms of a bad vent valve?
Umm a few could be a CEL, pressure build up in your tank, poor fuel economy, failed emissions test, not being able to fill your tank properly ( meaning you basically have to trickle in fuel otherwise pump will shut off.)
Hope that kinda helps out. Are you having issues?
@@AdrianBilladeauhey thanks for the reply!
So... if I fill my gas tank about half way. When I drive it smells like gas in the car and driving it about 10 miles uses about a half a quarter tank. I have no check engine lights or anything.
@@boonvang708 whoa! There is definitely something going on. What are you driving? Have you noticed any puddles under the car? Could have a leak too.
@@AdrianBilladeau nope, no puddles. I'm thinking it might be a leak too but idk. I drive a 2008 impreza 2.5i wagon. I just don't want to take the whole thing apart replace the tank just to find out it wasn't the tank.
Nice job! Adrian You made that look easy. Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Thanks Brent! I am super thankful that the bottom of the car is not ate up with rust. Otherwise I probably would still be trying to get it down.
Wow what a big job, im going to sell my car instead! Thanks 😀
Hahaha! Oh no. How long has it been hard to fill for you?
@@AdrianBilladeau i have a different issue... rust in tank... Similar fix.. rip it out, or offload it like a hot potato 😁
@@853rudedogs2 how did you find out about the rust in the tank ? .. i am still juggling between installing a new one or reparing the old one.. but i did not think that there could be rust inside as well
@@jean-philippelangevin932 mechanic tested fuel pressure or flow, found it low 2L/min ? needs to be at least 4, checked pump found dodgy chinese pump from previous punk kid owner that said it was a new pump, it was fouled with rust, mechanic inspected rest of tank and said it is rusty, probably previously filled with e85 and had not been used for a couple years , so likey cause of rust.We replaced pump with hard to find geniune walbro, most are fakes on ebay, and added new fuel filter. After a few months engine would not start suddenly, i thought it was immobilser or key responder, but found wiring to pump under seat had burnt out, probably due to pump blockage again. The fuel filter full of rust too. Im looking for cheap solution but not doing anything about has already cost me 1000 quid, i was thinking that i might stick a strong magnet on a piece of string into the tank and see if it can attract any of the rust, or to us some type of agitator and pump,take the tank filer off to suck the fuel out and filter it of the rust particles ,fill it with rust can convertor, or viniger and keep pumping it out till it clean.....or just pay someone to rip it out clean it or put new one in....im not sure, let me know when you have quick fix!
Try installing a new clutch in a car in the the gravel and then it starts raining.
Or the time i did in a parking lot and the car was in the lowest point of a huge parking lot. Again it started raining and it was cold. I was soaked.
Learned a lesson.
The higher in a parking lot you are the LESS water goes under you.
The lower the spot the MORE water gets you all wet.
Same thing on a race track in the rain.
Stay high and less water under your tires go low and all that surface area brings MORE water and less traction.
Isn't that accessible via the back seats
You would think huh? However, it is not accessible via the back seat. There are access panels for the far left and right sides of the tank though. Passenger side is for the fuel pump assembly and the driver side is for lines and a couple of connectors if I remember correctly.
Dude I’m way older than you and this job sucked. I was so glad to hear ya say I’m done after getting it down cause I sure was great video really explaining it so well and making it look simple cause it’s not!
Hi Brent. I appreciate the engagement sir. I am glad that it helped you out. It’s definitely a job for sure. Happy holidays and happy new year. Cheers!
Thanks you for the show how to do its it's very hard work dear 🙏
A great video...many thanks
Thank you! I appreciate that.
you did it!
is an alignment recommended after this job? i have to do this on monday
I personally did not get one after this job. I didn’t mess with the alignment bolts on the lateral control arms. Looking back I would leave all that attached. Just remove the three nuts on the strut tower to release the shocks. That way once everything else is removed/disconnected you can pull it (the entire rear subframe assembly) all out at once as a complete unit.
Thank you
Great job
Thanks!
Thanks 🙏🏼 for Video
No problem! Are you having to drop your tank as well? Thanks for watching and for the comment.
This tells me I can change my tank and I need to tell the junk yard not to fucking touch any of those hoses and valves and shit on top. Idgaf. Leave all the hoses and valves and bs bc I dont want to have to fuck with switching all those over on a new tank. Junkyard it is for sure.
Well if you are having the same issue I may have the solution. I finally found that it was my charcoal canister this whole time. I tested it the wrong way. I do not know what you have checked thus far but give this a try and see if it works. If you crawl under your car and locate the canister remove the hose that is in the center. It should read "fuel tank" on the canister where the hose is. That is the line coming from the vent valve in this video. Remove it and then fill up at a pump.
Hopefully this is the issue for you. Best of luck and thanks again for watching and engaging.
Good job! Talking about rust - photos.app.goo.gl/Xi6JterJ75y9Wi6WA - it's not perfect now, but should buy me a few years lol.
Cool! I wish that I had some of that awesome Eastwood rust encapsulating paint to put on my frame, and rear diff. In time I guess.
The music is totally not needed. You have some good ideas but the music is not one of them.
My bud works at Subaru an we just cut a hole under the backseat where you service the fuel pump took 20mins 😜 subi lyphe ✨ ⬇️ READ COMMENT ⬇️
FYI we use metal cutting sheers to reduce sparks/fire 🔥 DONT USE A ANGEL GRINDER LOL BAD FOR YOUR HEALTH ⛽️ =🆘 💣 💥
Hahaha! I would be lying if I said that I didn’t consider this as an option. It’s all good though. I was able to do a lot of cleaning while everything was down. I enjoyed the experience.
Do you have a picture of exactly where you cut this? I need to do the same thing. Ain’t about to take all that stuff off for this, lol.
Steve ever model is different I did it on a 08 legacy but you can look up diagrams that will give you reference points so you can make the right cut, good luck 👍🏼 measure 30 times cut once 😉
@@rockducati6961 Thanks for the response. It seems like in the 04 Forester there's a seat bracket right where you'd think you need to cut, so investigating that. Cheers!