Stainless Braided VS Push Lock AN Fuel Lines - Reckless Wrench Garage
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- On both the Ranger and Stuburban we have had leaking stainless steel braided fuel lines. On this episode, we compare the stainless braided fuel lines to the push lock an fuel lines. We should you how to assemble a stainless steel braided line, and how to assemble a push lock line.
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Been over a year since the video, hows the push lock hose holding up?
I am pleased to report that I removed both fuel lines last week for inspection and there is no cracks or failures in the tubing after 2 years of use
RecklessWrenchGarage great news, that sold me for my turbo ls build.
Thanks buddy!
@@RecklessWrenchGarage still good in 2021?
Still going strong!
What about now?
In the field you can stick the cold hose in the tailpipe of a running vehicle to warm it up.
ummm problem... if fuel hose is off truck how is it running o.0
Yeah, those cutters are cable cutters for large electrical wire, but it does the job as well as several other techniques. I have two in my electrical snappy box. The stainless steel covered hose you have uses an unknown type of internal hose, either plastic PTFE or rubber, whatever is got to be cheap with those early failures. The OEM stainless cover flexible fuel lines, like those found on GMT800 are designed to last 5,000 hours of use with E85. That is 150,000 miles under warranty. Although, anything can fail, even the OEM type fuel hoses, but the only complaint is that some hardening of the lines can occur over time. You get what you pay for and the E85 rubber hose design for EFI pressures is probably great. I was working in the 70's when electronic fuel injection came out on two vehicles, the 76 Datsun 280Z & Cadillac Seville with the 5.7L engine. Not to be confused with European models with (CIS) or constant injection system that uses an air pressure plate & fuel distributor. Back then, it was not common for parts store to carry EFI rated fuel line and vehicles with complaint of fuel steel come into the dealer, opened the hood to see a sprinkler system, but no grass or veggies. Good video, so be careful when making a purchase of aftermarket stuff, including NiCop brake line from some oversea's sellers that does not have correct all thickness and does not meet SAE standards. Inline tube sells the good stuff and I am sure other as well. Retired ASE Master
Thank you for sharing that wealth of information! This is the kind of comment I like reading 🤘🏻
@@RecklessWrenchGarage If the learning ever stops...it becomes a boring day! Still, very good video and nice explanation.
I agree with you. My stainless failed in under one year. Now have PTFE hose
I like the old hose clamp stuff with barb fittings
I had the same issue. I did go with the teflon lined. Cost $475 for the lines and fittings.
Been using Fragola push lock stuff on my Dakota for years. Good shit.
Thanks for this video good to hear both sides of the story
You just need to choose a braided line with a pump gas compatible liner. We have 12 years on the fuel lines on our desert racer (runs 91 pump gas) with zero issues.
Good information. There are now more choices of E-85 compatible hose including black braided. I think eventually all of the CPE lined hose will go away [at least in the popular fuel line sizes] in favor of the Viton (TM) lined hose. Nice video.
This is EXACTLY the video I needed to see right now! I have some Push Lock lines that I haven't installed yet and was about to go with the stainless braided lines but after seeing this I'm going to go full send with what I have, great video!
I have using the PTFE stuff and have not had any problem with it. I was kind forced to use custom fitting due to adding new OEM parts from a Ford f250 and modifying it to work in my 95 ranger. I found out that the power steering pump was standard fitting on the ranger side but the Hydro boost from the 250 was metric.
I use the PTFE hose and fittings from Earls. In the 15 years since converting everything plumbing to "Army-Navy" I have only had one fuel leak, not sure what caused it. I also blew a line off a fitting. My fault though, accidentally crossed pressure line with suction line on my hydra-boost brake set up. Overall a great mod, I've never regretted it.
I wanted to add that I hard lined the supply and return along the chassis for the fuel system. Only braided at cell end and after canister filter in engine bay. A guy told me once "they don't like rocks" so I routed accordingly.
I wanted to run some hard lines but was limited by time and this is what I had access to locally.
May be something to think about for later. I never tried push-locks before, so I can't say for sure which is better.
I used the 3/8" anodized aluminum tubing (Russell I think) from Summit. Then ran them on top of the frame rails.
What sold me on the braided was the time I blew the line off the steering box. I had just finished the hydra-boost and this happened well after start up, it had held together through all the standing around trying to figure out what was causing the lines to twist and distort every time someone (tried) to turn the wheel or why it making strange noises when it was revved up! It wasn't until after we decided to shut it down and was in the process of doing so when it finally let loose. It certainly answered the questions!
Easy fix before connecting the lines properly. The fitting was ok, only had to dress up the end of the hose and reassemble it. Not sure how push locks or anything else could have held up, I just know a stock hose wouldn't have put up with that for as long.
Yeeyee for maximum freedom application
Two words “Aeroflow Kryptalon”
A little more expense in the workshop beats breakages on the trail or track.
Rubbing alcohol allows rubbery type hose to slip over barbs, then it completely evaporates/dissipates after.
Stay gold.
I’ve gone through the whole ‘I gotta have braided stainless! Cause that’s what magazine guy use.’ Then i read an article ‘hot rodding’ on fuel delivery. Interesting and they all went to hard line, Stl, SS or Al. Then what ever went to fuel pump was rubber or the blue stuff. These guys i know were putting 12-15K on their cars going to meets an’ shows. My .02C worth, use ‘em hard lines when you can, up grade to to blue when you have to. Keep the video’s coming, or is what she said?
If I have issues ever again, I am going to look into the hard lines. I considered doing that this time but I couldn’t source all the tubing, fittings and tools to make it how I wanted quickly, so I opted for this so I can get the truck back on the road
Teflon lines may be more expensive up front but if you’re replacing ss lines every year then it’s counter productive and more out of pocket over a length of time.
I just found y'all channel and I dig it so far! Keep it up fellas!!
If that was better quality S/S hose you wouldn't be having this problem.I 100 % recommend the PTFE with that being said the blue push on is good stuff also if you want S/S braided hose pay for the good stuff.Keep up the good videos 👍written by Tom Hanson not Shelley Gibson.
Use ptfe. Ive never had an issue
Hey, Just a heads up, I had the rubber push lock pipe on my car but the rubber cracked over time due to heat and i got many fuel leaks,
I have changed to Nylon Stainless Braided with PTFE. This is the best i can find to use as it is stronger than rubber and cheaper than the ptfe based stainless braided
Hope this Helps
Olly
Thanks for the heads up. I hope this stuff lasts for a while, time will tell. I will switch to PTFE if I continue to have problems
silverado running in the rust belt. sits alot... I switched from hard steel lines due to corrosion to ptfe. they have been on the truck for brakes and clutch for almost 5yrs in ptfe. its worth the extra $ for prfe. ptfe is one and done with option for easy splices. that rubber core stainless is no better than regular fuel hose from local corporate auyoparts store.😅
If you're running Ethonol, you should really use PTFE hose, you'll have no more issues.
f those braided hoses. I switched to push lock on my turbo for the cooling and oil drain and now when I make my fuel return system ill use push lock too
Little masking tape on the hose where you cut it with a cut off wheel.. assembly is much easier
wesley uhlig, Exactly, I mark my cut line with a sharpy, then cover the cut line with electrical tape, then cut with a chop saw centered on the tape, never had problems assembling AN stuff...
@@shitbox7413 Same here. The nice part about doing it that way is it leaves whatever is left on the roll, good to go next time you need it.
gary shumaker, Yep, doesn’t fray. 👍🏻
You guys are the best good job
I would caution not to use any kind of lubricant to assemble the hose onto a push lock fitting--there is the potential of defeating what makes this style work.
put some fuel in the line and on the expansion fittings makes it a lot easier and doesn't push it off the hose.
Yeah I want to see you just push the twist lock onto the hose not quite that easy
I prefer the type with the metal fittings that you crimp on with the bottle jack contraption clamps in your vice
You need PTFE lined AN lines, stops the ethanol from corroding the lines.
I’ve had braided stainless on my car for 10 years, never had any leak issues, guess I’m just lucky? 🤷🏻♂️ That being said I don’t plan on using it in the future, I don’t exactly need it for street cars...
You should be using 200 series PTFE Teflon line with ethanol and the only lube you use with pushlock hose is water.
Tree limb clippers make a clean cut.
Hi ... great video.. with the push lock end fittings do you need to secure the hose with a clamp?... And also what is the type of hose (blue) do you use on your video? Is it PFTE type? thx for your comment
No clamp required due to the tight tolerance and multiple barbs on the fittings. The big thing is to make sure the push lock/twist lock hose you want is rated for fuel applications.
Great info ,need a solution for my ls swap and may of found it,thanks.
Fuel is pretty corrosive so I didn’t think either rubber hoses would be that great so ptfe would be the only one that would last
I have blue pushlock on my Dodge and after a few years it's dryrotting from the outside. I ended up here looking for a better answer to replace it with, at this point the top of my fuel tank is soaked and the underside of the truck smells like fuel.
get deatschwerks ptfe fuel lines
Is braided conductive or non conductive
Teflon with braided stainless. Period. If you're gonna play ya gotta pay.
Great little video with tons of good information. Unfortunately I was looking for an alternative to the steel braided line for my Injection motor. The push-lock system wont seal pressured lines will they? If I was going carbuerated, I would to the push-lock all day..
Yes they do seal pressured lines. These lines went on a pressured fuel system and have been going strong for a couple years now. Just look at the hose and see what pressure it is rated for.
Bro you can use the push on hose with the braided fittings.
Ptfe braided an line is amazing. Rubber an line isn’t for ethanol based fuels
so...I have a diesel suburban--and want to run push-lock---but the truck uses the old-fashioned clamp style male hose connections--can the push lock be used on those fittings as well??
next time, use a Koultool, same job in seconds and no bleeding
What is the pressure rating of the blue hose have you ever had the push lock line release or leak at the fittings thank you
Where can I order blue line and quick connect?
That was bad news for me, but thanks for the info. 👍
Says right on the pushlock hose " E85 compatible " so you shouldn't have problems with the government mandated crap fuel. Good video. Thanks guys 👍😎
Correct me if I'm wrong but don't those connectors screw on counter-clockwise? I struggled getting one together until I saw a video showing the sleeve on the braided line goes on "differently". When you finish the assembly you screw the end which completes the seal into the line clockwise. They work so much better when they go on correctly. Another person already mentioned masking tape (tightly wrapped) and a cut off wheel make things easier.
These fittings I am using are not reverse threaded, but I have also seen some that are
@@RecklessWrenchGarage
Thanks for the input
Do you know if the make the a hose end to use with a stock for fuel pump with the quick release (the fittings with the little metal fingers inside)?
what brand is the hose and do you know the -8 part number?
Was the leaking lines made of cpe? I just bought some, figure itll work cus I'll be on e85 maybe only 20% of the time for leisure. The off to 91.
Gotta get the (peft) steel braided
Might be a dumb ass question, but what does "AN" stand for?
It’s not a dumb question. It stands for Army-Navy.
they leaked because you are using braided lines which have rubber in them.so they will leak eventualy. All you needed was PTFE/TAflon steel braided hoses.So dont blame it on stainless steel braided hoses.Its the material which is inside and for the fluid its meant to be
Those braided stainless lines were rated to be fuel lines. They were sold and advertised as capable of containing fuel.
@@RecklessWrenchGarage yed most advertise as such but you can see in pics the inner lining is black(rubber) or PTFE/Nylon(white).
order ones with white inner
On the push lock, is there a clamp used as well when you plug it in? Also, what brand hose is that?
On the push lock a clamp is not required, the barb is designed to hold the hose very good. This hose was redhorse hose
Is the fuel system under pressure when changing those lines out ?
No the system is only under pressure with the key on and the pump running
@@RecklessWrenchGarage thank you my 03 mustang had a leak with the braided lines on the fittings I tighten it and no more leaks but it concerns me by the line running from one side to the other over a hot engine
Ptfe hose is made to solve that problem, pushlock is gonna have the same issue. I wouldn't trust pushlock for my fish tank
Hey man love video great stuff. Is it okay if I ask a question can i convert my 96
F150 to quick connect fitting and blue hose shown in the this video? Because I want to ditch all factory oem quick disconnect bullshit that in my truck right now.
Because I would much rather be using wrench's
Than wasting hard earned
Cash on speciall fuel disconnect tools.
You could, but it’s not necessary. The tool costs around $10 for the one with 2 sizes. You would spend more converting to the push lock than buying the tool.
The reason for converting the ranger is because it no longer has the factory tank, engine, or lines.
Keep the hard lines as much as possible.
You're buying cheap Ebay hose, that's why.....
What about PTFE stainless braided one? That'd cost much and be difficult to handle with tho.
Were can i get that hose and the couplings to an6 tnks
We picked up all this at the local speed shop. You can get all the same parts from Summit.
any update? 3 years now
Still going strong on the push lock hoses 👍🏻
@@RecklessWrenchGarage where did you bought your hose? I’m looking on eBay and I couldn’t find one that was 100% E85 safe for push lock
What welder do you guys use?
We have a Lincoln and a Hobart welder that we use
RecklessWrenchGarage 110v?
Yeah both are 110 machines
RecklessWrenchGarage Everything's held up fine? sorry for all the questions but it I cautious with welder 1/4 and up for my project with my 110v welder
Yeah everything has held up fine. 1/4 is the thickest we can weld, and we have to go nice and slow to get good penetration. A bigger 220 machine would be nice in the near future
You were probably sold a cheap Chinese stainless braided hose knock-off. The rubber liner is poor quality in the Chinese hose. Stick with Aeroquip hose for a quality product. If you can find it, use the braided hose with the Teflon liner. You will never need to replace it.
OEMs use hard lines for a reason.
Use tape to put in then pull tape back🤦🏽♂️
thats a shitty hose, i have it.. it cracked after couple of mounts on the car...
That bad, fuel lines that I need rebuild to lower risk of fire in my Porsche 928 S4 with 200k and is 33 years old are original. 2 years??? So not using this product.
avoid the push lock from amazon...they leak and burst...this is why im here looking a this video...
I would never use the hose push lock is only for oil line or for your coolant line that's it you're nuts for putting that for you guys
That’s weird, the line says “fuel” right on the side of it...
Or... or... or..., get this. Use actual FUEL rated line and not that cheap stainless wrapped crap.
Ptfe and be done. This day in age I don’t see why people run anything else.
If you are using chinese hose or line you are asking for a fire. Complete garbage. Do not use cheap hose . It will fail
you need to not live in a place that forces you to use E85 garbage.
GREG LEBLOND, Thankfully we have ethanol free 91 in my area, otherwise it’s E10 garbage. It’s hell on carburetors...