Thanks for posting these two videos on the ole FMX. I have a FMX in my 72 cougar. It had I leak at the gear shifter. With your help I gained confidence to do it myself. I removed the bottom section of the valve body first then slid it off the two tubes. I didn't disturb the front servo at all. then removed the rest of the valve body. That detent spring and pin was a pain in the a$$ but I got it. I used grease to hold the pin in place. Going back up with everything I dropped a ball from the bottom portion and was like aww man! So I just looked at this video to see where it goes. Thanks for your help sir. Cheers!
Great video. I'm trying to replace the shifter seals on my 1970 Mustang FMX. I have no intention to rebuilding the whole thing, but your video was excellent. I just fast forwarded to the parts I needed for the shifter seal replacement. You make it look easy. I'm sure it won't be easy for me, but I will get is done with the help of your video.
Thanks. I use Transjel gold to lube stuff and green to hold things in place. Dr. Tranny sells the same thing in the same colors. I have seen the Dr. Tranny at O'Reilly's before. Otherwise WIT and Transtar sells it. I bet that is a chore. You can pull the 4 bolts that holds the trans to the bellhousing and leave the bell housing and torque converter in the car as long as the hub on the torque converter is ok. Used to do that all the time back in the day. Pull the drain plug in the converter and drain all the old fluid out. Just have to be careful when putting the trans back in and make sure it is all the way up against the bellhousing before you start tightening the bolts down.
So i just took apart my fmx trans and im not sure what year it is but the thrust washers ate the hell out of the clutch casing and basically disintegrated to a point i have to buy a whole new clutch case but im having trouble finding those washers?? They are the brass ones with the grooves in them. Any ideas where i can find some???
I’ve rebuilt my FMX using your videos and the input shaft won’t turn. Any thoughts? I disassembled and it would only turn once the planetary support and tail shaft were removed. Easy to turn forward and still difficult to turn in reverse
Couple of things to check. There are 2 washers between the drums. The steel one has slots on the inner diameter. Those need to line up on the front of the rear drum. The other would be when you put the 2 drums together you missed a clutch and it is binding there. One other thing to check. The washer on the sun gear shaft has a taper on the inside diameter, make sure it's facing to the front.
Excellent informative video. I have a question for you, I would be interested your thoughts. I realize of course this is NOT the correct way but....do you think it is possible to replace the front band on an FMX without complete trans disassembly and removal from the car? Thanks!
Thanks. Now you are taking me way back. When I first started they made "snap bands". If you have a solid band, no. If it is a flex band and you can get your hands on a snap band, yes. I texted my parts guy to see if he could still get it but he didn't answer me.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission by the way my symptoms were slipping/over revving in second and then would not shift up through any gear until I came off throttle. Took pan off and attempted band adjustment. Some dark fluid and small black cornflakes in the pan. Adjuster was loose like 3/4" play instead of 1/4" play. Basically adjusted it way in but could not torque to 10lbs with 1/4" spacer because I was all out of thread adjustment. Put back together... Slips far less. 75% better but still slips in 2nd. Will upshift through gears under load but not under WOT. Thanks again for your thoughts. I have a feeling I will be using your complete video soon. Lol.
I noticed there's no rear band internal adjustment on the rear servo. Is this normal? I have been reading about rear band adjustment and it seems FMX transmissions have internal and external adjustment. Is this a difference between early and late model transmissions? Thanks for the video!
Yes, depends on the year and model it is. This transmission has been basically the same from the beginning and has various names depending on the year. Cast Iron Cruiso, Cruis-O-Matic, Flash-O-Matic,Merc-O-Matic,small, medium and large case Cruiso and a bunch of others that are just not coming to mind at the moment. Whether it is internal or external they both are the same, about a turn and a half to two.
So I got an fmx transmission where the previous owner had removed the valve body and one solenoid. After I watched 3 of your fmx videos I put it back together and it looks good. However I have a ball (.436) and a rod (.123 and 3” long) left over. In none of your vids you are handling anything like that so now I am wondering whether these came from somewhere else and are not part of this transmission. Any thoughts?
The FMX does not have any solenoids, so I am not sure what you got there. The 3" rod is the modulator pin. The ball I am not sure, don't remember them having one that large. What year are we working with and I will check.
I think that ball is your linkage detent. There should be a spring and ball underneath your linkage in the case. Starting at 28:37 I do the linkage. 1:57:15 is the modulator pin.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hello, thank you very much for replying so quickly, I got to take another look today and you are correct about the modulator pin, I guess it fell out when the valve body was removed. Still no indication about the ball, it has a spring and ball for the linkage in place and it was not removed. I guess I have to just close it up and test it on the road. Thanks again for your prompt help! This is from a 74 Ranchero.
Having trouble finding a front pump seal for my 66 Thunderbird. I thought it was a C6 turns out it's a MX with the 14 bolt pan. Tried to do the front seal replacement as the seal rubber hardened & no longer seals(starts leaking when fluid warms up). Turns out the replacement seals I keep coming across are a tiny bit rounder in circimferance & wont tap it. Found a seal at Winchester/Napa Auto parts & it's the correct circumferance but is deeper than the others. I'm worried it wont tap in all the way to seat completely flat. Any ideas or reference on the front pump seal? The part from Napa is a National 6988H (1.937 x 2.686 x 0.500) not sure what those #'s mean but it is a 6988H part # HELP PLEASE...THANK YOU
Being taller should not be a problem, just press it in till it stops and don't try to go further and crush it. Try these guys for your old stuff. www.fatsco.net/online-store
BTW if the front seal is leaking because of that all the rubber in the transmission is going to be hard also. Might want to rebuild it while you have it out.
THE TUBES IN THERE - WHAT HOLDS THEM IN PLACE? IS THERE NO OR VERY LOW PRESSURE IN THEM? SEEMS LIKE 20 OR 30 PSI IS ALL IT WOULD TAKE TO BLOW THEM OUT.
The filter and pan will keep the large tube in place. Valve body keeps the rear pump one ( on the ones that have one ) in place. Pan keeps the front servo tube in and the rear servo keeps the lube tube in place. There is more pressure than that. Have never had a tube come out.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission THANKS - I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU ANSWERED THIS QUICK - I NEED TO REPLACE MY SHIFTING SHAFT SEALS BUT IT'S STILL IN THE CAR AND IT LOOKS LIKE IT WILL BE NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO GET TO THE GEAR DETENT AND SPRING FROM THE BOTTOM SIDE - TRANSMISSION WORKS GREAT - IT JUST LEAKS BY THE SHIFTING SHAFT
It is hard enough to do on the bench, it would be extremely hard in the car. Think you would be cussing by the time you were finished. Definitely would let it drain overnight before attempting it unless you like taking a bath in transmission fluid.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission THANKS - I'M ALREADY CUSSING IT - BEEN DRAINING FOR 3 DAYS WHILE I WORK ON POWER STEERING AND OTHER STUFF AND IT'S STILL DRIPPING
@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks I have one that won't up shift by itself when in the green dot. The Trans is air checking on the bench. Thanks for your help. Needless to say this is my first one. It was a easy one to do. Not many people remember how to work on them. Thanks again for your help. 🙂
If it is a green dot it technically is not an FMX. They are all very similar though. What is it in? What is the case measurement from the front (where the bell bolts on) to the rear (where the tail housing bolts on, and how many pan bolts? Are you sure the valve body has not been replaced? When you put it in the green dot is it taking off in 2nd or low?
Really Great Video. These are pretty faithful transmissions, It explained a lot of the unknown.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for posting these two videos on the ole FMX. I have a FMX in my 72 cougar. It had I leak at the gear shifter. With your help I gained confidence to do it myself. I removed the bottom section of the valve body first then slid it off the two tubes. I didn't disturb the front servo at all. then removed the rest of the valve body. That detent spring and pin was a pain in the a$$ but I got it. I used grease to hold the pin in place. Going back up with everything I dropped a ball from the bottom portion and was like aww man! So I just looked at this video to see where it goes. Thanks for your help sir. Cheers!
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Great video. I'm trying to replace the shifter seals on my 1970 Mustang FMX. I have no intention to rebuilding the whole thing, but your video was excellent. I just fast forwarded to the parts I needed for the shifter seal replacement. You make it look easy. I'm sure it won't be easy for me, but I will get is done with the help of your video.
Thanks. It is a pain. Sometimes it's easier than others. Sometimes you will be cursing before it is over. Thanks for watching.
Great Video, Currently trying to reassemble mine while in the car and this is a great reference. What grease are you using to hold stuff together?
Thanks. I use Transjel gold to lube stuff and green to hold things in place. Dr. Tranny sells the same thing in the same colors. I have seen the Dr. Tranny at O'Reilly's before. Otherwise WIT and Transtar sells it. I bet that is a chore. You can pull the 4 bolts that holds the trans to the bellhousing and leave the bell housing and torque converter in the car as long as the hub on the torque converter is ok. Used to do that all the time back in the day. Pull the drain plug in the converter and drain all the old fluid out. Just have to be careful when putting the trans back in and make sure it is all the way up against the bellhousing before you start tightening the bolts down.
So i just took apart my fmx trans and im not sure what year it is but the thrust washers ate the hell out of the clutch casing and basically disintegrated to a point i have to buy a whole new clutch case but im having trouble finding those washers?? They are the brass ones with the grooves in them. Any ideas where i can find some???
I would try Fatsco. Maybe WIT or Transtar.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission your a life saver man fatsco had exactly what i needed i really appreciate it!!
I’ve rebuilt my FMX using your videos and the input shaft won’t turn. Any thoughts? I disassembled and it would only turn once the planetary support and tail shaft were removed. Easy to turn forward and still difficult to turn in reverse
Couple of things to check. There are 2 washers between the drums. The steel one has slots on the inner diameter. Those need to line up on the front of the rear drum. The other would be when you put the 2 drums together you missed a clutch and it is binding there. One other thing to check. The washer on the sun gear shaft has a taper on the inside diameter, make sure it's facing to the front.
Excellent informative video. I have a question for you, I would be interested your thoughts. I realize of course this is NOT the correct way but....do you think it is possible to replace the front band on an FMX without complete trans disassembly and removal from the car? Thanks!
Thanks. Now you are taking me way back. When I first started they made "snap bands". If you have a solid band, no. If it is a flex band and you can get your hands on a snap band, yes. I texted my parts guy to see if he could still get it but he didn't answer me.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission wow. hey thanks so much for your response that is awesome!
@@CurmudgeonTransmission by the way my symptoms were slipping/over revving in second and then would not shift up through any gear until I came off throttle. Took pan off and attempted band adjustment. Some dark fluid and small black cornflakes in the pan. Adjuster was loose like 3/4" play instead of 1/4" play. Basically adjusted it way in but could not torque to 10lbs with 1/4" spacer because I was all out of thread adjustment. Put back together... Slips far less. 75% better but still slips in 2nd. Will upshift through gears under load but not under WOT. Thanks again for your thoughts. I have a feeling I will be using your complete video soon. Lol.
I noticed there's no rear band internal adjustment on the rear servo. Is this normal? I have been reading about rear band adjustment and it seems FMX transmissions have internal and external adjustment. Is this a difference between early and late model transmissions?
Thanks for the video!
Yes, depends on the year and model it is. This transmission has been basically the same from the beginning and has various names depending on the year. Cast Iron Cruiso, Cruis-O-Matic, Flash-O-Matic,Merc-O-Matic,small, medium and large case Cruiso and a bunch of others that are just not coming to mind at the moment. Whether it is internal or external they both are the same, about a turn and a half to two.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
@@MartinDoms Thanks for watching.
So I got an fmx transmission where the previous owner had removed the valve body and one solenoid. After I watched 3 of your fmx videos I put it back together and it looks good. However I have a ball (.436) and a rod (.123 and 3” long) left over. In none of your vids you are handling anything like that so now I am wondering whether these came from somewhere else and are not part of this transmission. Any thoughts?
The FMX does not have any solenoids, so I am not sure what you got there. The 3" rod is the modulator pin. The ball I am not sure, don't remember them having one that large. What year are we working with and I will check.
I think that ball is your linkage detent. There should be a spring and ball underneath your linkage in the case. Starting at 28:37 I do the linkage. 1:57:15 is the modulator pin.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hello, thank you very much for replying so quickly, I got to take another look today and you are correct about the modulator pin, I guess it fell out when the valve body was removed. Still no indication about the ball, it has a spring and ball for the linkage in place and it was not removed. I guess I have to just close it up and test it on the road. Thanks again for your prompt help! This is from a 74 Ranchero.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission servos of course
Having trouble finding a front pump seal for my 66 Thunderbird. I thought it was a C6 turns out it's a MX with the 14 bolt pan. Tried to do the front seal replacement as the seal rubber hardened & no longer seals(starts leaking when fluid warms up). Turns out the replacement seals I keep coming across are a tiny bit rounder in circimferance & wont tap it. Found a seal at Winchester/Napa Auto parts & it's the correct circumferance but is deeper than the others. I'm worried it wont tap in all the way to seat completely flat. Any ideas or reference on the front pump seal? The part from Napa is a National 6988H (1.937 x 2.686 x 0.500) not sure what those #'s mean but it is a 6988H part #
HELP PLEASE...THANK YOU
Being taller should not be a problem, just press it in till it stops and don't try to go further and crush it. Try these guys for your old stuff. www.fatsco.net/online-store
BTW if the front seal is leaking because of that all the rubber in the transmission is going to be hard also. Might want to rebuild it while you have it out.
THE TUBES IN THERE - WHAT HOLDS THEM IN PLACE? IS THERE NO OR VERY LOW PRESSURE IN THEM? SEEMS LIKE 20 OR 30 PSI IS ALL IT WOULD TAKE TO BLOW THEM OUT.
The filter and pan will keep the large tube in place. Valve body keeps the rear pump one ( on the ones that have one ) in place. Pan keeps the front servo tube in and the rear servo keeps the lube tube in place. There is more pressure than that. Have never had a tube come out.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission THANKS - I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU ANSWERED THIS QUICK - I NEED TO REPLACE MY SHIFTING SHAFT SEALS BUT IT'S STILL IN THE CAR AND IT LOOKS LIKE IT WILL BE NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO GET TO THE GEAR DETENT AND SPRING FROM THE BOTTOM SIDE - TRANSMISSION WORKS GREAT - IT JUST LEAKS BY THE SHIFTING SHAFT
It is hard enough to do on the bench, it would be extremely hard in the car. Think you would be cussing by the time you were finished. Definitely would let it drain overnight before attempting it unless you like taking a bath in transmission fluid.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission THANKS - I'M ALREADY CUSSING IT - BEEN DRAINING FOR 3 DAYS WHILE I WORK ON POWER STEERING AND OTHER STUFF AND IT'S STILL DRIPPING
Torque converter is draining. Pull the drain plug out of it and will speed up the process.
How do u air check it on the bench 😮
The valve body will need to be off. Ports are in the center of the case. Front servo is through the tubes.
@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks I have one that won't up shift by itself when in the green dot. The Trans is air checking on the bench. Thanks for your help. Needless to say this is my first one. It was a easy one to do. Not many people remember how to work on them. Thanks again for your help. 🙂
If it is a green dot it technically is not an FMX. They are all very similar though. What is it in? What is the case measurement from the front (where the bell bolts on) to the rear (where the tail housing bolts on, and how many pan bolts? Are you sure the valve body has not been replaced? When you put it in the green dot is it taking off in 2nd or low?
. a Cruisomatic it's in a 64 Ford Galaxy. Hopefully I can check it out in a few days. It's been crazy busy with other stuff to work on.
1:02:44
1:16:21
1:18:21