Another point to consider is that even if the bar did not last as long with used oil, for what you spend on only a few gallons of bar oil you could buy a new bar.
Something I've found with using older slow revving saws, the oil/tackifier used doesn't really matter much as the chain isn't slinging it off nearly as bad as the little modern rippers that make their power at twice the revs. Get some old 80-100cc saw for a fraction of the price as the latest greatest, use semi-chisel .404, and cut with a sharp chain for the whole day without needing to sharpen. It's amazing how some of the best methods have been lost to marketing in the last 30 years. Faster, lighter, smaller.. none of that matters if your cutting firewood.
Torque vs RPM. I agree with you on a lot of points. One thing that has improved I feel is the anti- vibration aspect of the new saws. My Pioneer will pull through wood all day long no problem if I could hold onto it that long!
My gasoline powered engines all use synthetic motor oil. When I change the oil, I reuse the engine oil as chainsaw bar oil. I've never had any problems yet and I have been doing it for many years.
I think what your doing is great always in for getting double duty out of something! My father logged and I can't ever remember him using bar oil, used motor oil from anything. If oil comes from a motor after 3000 miles it still has lubrication values. As for contaminated there's plenty in tree bark and sawdust. I own 3 chainsaws and I don't use them very often so I use bar oil.
About 16 years ago bought a new I saw the price of oil it jumped a buck so I had extra money and bought eight cases then 3 gallons each came back 2 weeks later bought six more winter oil than summer still have 12 cases of it at 3 bucks a gallon I'm 62 years old I don't think I'll run out😅😅😅 like the idea of what you're doing thank you
Something that is sticky like that is Lucas oil. Some might be more than others, like transmission additive, or gear oil additive. I know the transmission stop leak is crazy sticky.
Ya I googled that stuff and didnt have any luck finding it. Anyone else find a good tackifier yo use? I wonder if using tackifier in used filter motor oil or vegetable oil would be good ad well.
@@vansicklejerry I suspect one would have to call an oil distributor and hope they would sell to the public. I couldn't find anything online either. So, a decent idea but it just isn't feasible.
Lucas is heavy oil, with polymer tackifier. You fellas must’ve skipped right by my comment. You can buy it anywhere. Canadian Tire has small to large maybe 3 or 4 litre jugs.
@@leebdj1949I love the video. It has me hoping I can find tackifier cheap.. I'm gonna watch for it at auctions, estate sales, etc... at renovating or moving businesses also.. I can find that Lucas product too! In Minnesota... And that is exactly the product I thought of when he demonstrated the old (10yrs old) commercial tackifier product he is using. I think STP is a fair match to his tackifier. And I find it available at many stores. Comes in approximately an 8oz. blue plastic bottle. I don't mix my own Bar and Chain oils yet..., but I buy some various bar and chains oils for my saws and I specifically buy the summer blend type (because it is thicker in the bottle) bar and chain oils when I'm stocking up supplies to make my own vehicle rust-proofing treatment. I also buy STP, and WD40 (reason not explained) ... to mix into the store bought summer type Bar and chain oils just to thicken it and help it stay on the vehicle under sides, chassis, inner hidden spaces, and seams after it has been applied as a rustproofing. I add 1 bottle STP to 1 gallon of summer type bar and chain and about 3-4 oz of WD40. mix and heat to about 200-250 deg. F. It has to be prewarmed to allow it to be applied to the vehicle (it is super thick at less than 90 deg F.) It may not work well in a chainsaw unless it's extreme summer hot weather during use. However, Works better than ANY OTHER RUSTPROOFING I'VE FOUND! (based on (9yrs) real life all year around Minnesota testing as of now.)
I use the motor oil from my truck oil changes as well as regular 10W-40 motor oil with STP added to cut the slinging down. Been doing it for years and my bar and chain have held up well . I dropped and cut nearly an acre of trees the past 2 years on the same bar/chain with no issues or excessive wear and getting ready to cut some more dead standing and felled trees through this winter. I cant see spending $10 on a quart of bar oil when motor oil is $2.50 a quart
All bar oil slings off the tip of the bar, somewhat, ( more in the summer, obviously) that is how you check to see if you are oiling. Or You can check by pulling the chain away from the bar, and looking at the drive links, whilst it is not running.
I went to the Sthil dealer last week to buy a new bar for my MS391 the tip seized up due to lack of oiling, mainly my fault for not doing enough cleaning on the bar and using heavy weight bar oil in hot weather. The dealer told me to set the oiler to maximum and use lighter weight oil, funny thing is I wanted to buy a jug of winter weight “Sthil oil” but they didn’t have any, the sales representative told me nobody is buying it because it’s to expensive, they now sell a no name cheaper oil. I’m going to try your mixture, thanks for doing the video.
Non-detergent, to keep from softening your seals. Something sticky (tackifier, STP, etc). Lubricating oil ... not hydraulic fluid. Centrifuge and/or Franz (toilet paper filter) clean engine oil, after the additives are burned out of it. Eye of newt and toe of frog works well, too.
Get some magnets and set up a system to pour hyd oil slowly on the magnets and pull out the metal, I heat it up and add a little Lukas hub oil in 6 gallon steel tank and use HD honing drill and mix it 20 minutes Works great for me
That’s an interesting idea about the magnet. I’ve never thought that there might be metal in the oil but that makes sense. During the Christmas break I’ll be changing the fluid in the tractor transmission again and have a fresh 42 litre supply of oil. Happy to have it considering the current price of bar oil. Thanks for the comment.
@@buildingthebruce yes Sir I work at a major frac company as shop supervisor for 45 years and I was get a lot of hyd oil and we filter it in to storage tanks for recycling but if major pump or motor failure it went in waste tanks which company paid by the gallon to remove. So we gave it away I was picky and that’s why I used the magnets and I have waste oil heater in my personal shop I’m retired with plenty of waste hyd oil
Tried peanut oil ( was cheaper than bar oil. ) for about a yr. Running saws daily in the tree business. It did pretty good, but, gums up, around the outside of the saw, plus, way before lunch time, it smelled too good. Luckily, I can just pass my expenses on to the customer.
The same kind of idea: A Depression Era man once told me to filter drain oil and mix in STP for bar oil. I haven't seen STP in many years. At one time in a pinch, I put STP in a gear box, and that gear box is still spinning today.
I think in your case its a smart solution with the tackafier. If your waste oil is of poor quality perhaps add some metal cutting oil to it improve the wear resistance properties. Vegetable oil is also a good option if you use your chainsaw often. Never leave it in/on for storage as it varnishes up your parts exposed to air😂😢.
That's a great idea! I've always wondered why it's so expensive... I have to pay $25-$30 for 4 liters!!! I found the tackifier, it's now called Lubrizol 5907A Tackifier.
@@bobhanke6401 I don't know where to buy it actually, I just found that the name was changed when searching the internet. I also would like to know where to buy it 😮
@@SixOFord Well, from experience a blender definitely won’t work but I sure wouldn’t recommend “borrowing” the wife’s mixer. Happy wife = happy life and maybe a new chainsaw with all the money you saved. At least that’s my story. lol.
Don’t forget to amortize in the cost of your wife’s new blender with the cost of your bar oil. LOL Great video, I really like how you are reusing the oil.
Great tip! I started mixing bar oil and UDT about 60/40 during covid when they wanted $20/jug at TSC/Peavey, but if i can find some tackifier this is even cheaper! And yes, UDT looks identical coming out as it does going in....
I've been using cooking oil for years. If you're using chainsaw every day, it's okay. But it clogs up a little if not used very regularly. cost £1.50. That is on my old 08s stihl chainsaw and on my old husky 61 chainsaw
Thanks for the comment, but personally I don’t think I would want to do that. With the price and value of my chainsaws I really can’t see all the contaminants being healthy for the oil pump. My hydraulic oil is almost the same colour after 400 hours as when it was new, used motor oil after an oil change, not so much. And I have so much used hydraulic oil from the tractor I wish I could give some of it away 😂. Thanks for watching.
Any oil new or used if it is slick and gets between the chain and the bar will work. Wear is caused more by a dull chain. If you sharpen the chain after every few cuts keeping it sharp the engine doesn't have to work as hard and the bar and chain are cooler because you aren't pushing down trying to make it cut. If you don't keep the chain sharp the best most expensive oil won't keep them from wearing.
It is going to get dirty with sawdust regardless of what oil you use. So a good lubricant is all you need. With synthetics the lubrication of motor oil should be even better.
I never see much wear on my rails the sprocket at the end wears first. I use Super Tech, Bar S, or whatever generic bar oil I find at the farm store. In the winter I mix the cheap bar oil with 10W oil Harvest King or whatever brand from the farm store.
Actually were not pumping oil here hardly at all. It was mostly shut down my the current administration. The pipeline was also shut down and public lands were shut down to oil exploration. We are mostly dependent on foreign oil at this time. We are an energy rich nation with our hands tied when it comes to extracting the enormous amounts of oil we have beneath our feet. At one point in the previous administration a barrel of oil was so cheap it was almost free. The previous administration filled the strategic oil reserves with oil that was about $10 per barrel. This administration sold almost all that oil to China. Something is wrong with this administration. It is what it is and there is no possible way to cover it up.
You can dilute bar oil with used motor oil or used transmission oil to cut cost. Of course STP or similar can be added to used oils too. I add a shot of graphite spray lubricant to provide some dry lube protection in case the chain runs dry from clogged oil passage in the bar. It also helps to shoot the bar and chain with a little spray on graphite dry lube when mounting it.
There wasn't a thing wrong with the tractor fluid you drained oud either. You just drained out the fluid to make bar oil. You spent money on tractor oil you didn't need to make bar oil. I can't even picture how this saves money? Brilliant!
Well, kubota tells me when to change the oil and that $40,000 tractor is worth a lot more then the oil, additive and chainsaws combined. Try finding a 35 hp tractor in mint condition without DPF or 30 computer sensors to keep it running without throwing codes and you would understand the situation. That’s how it saves me money.
Well, you have a cheap one. I can't even get a corn head for 40 grand. Also, I doubt you had more than 100hrs on that tranny fluid. No need to change it when it's clean like that. Tranny fluid will go many hrs. in a hobby tractor. I bet you dump discontinued 303 yellow bucket in yer tranny. 🤣🤣@@buildingthebruce
I like your idea there. Really do I go trough bar oil like candy inert the product that Lucas makes probably the same thing real tacky, sticky stuff. You can get an auto parts store or that even old STP. Because it like thick as honey ,as for winter and summer blind I haven’t been Abel to find it in a yr or 2 I have been using Husky brand because it doesn’t get my chain hot bit iam going to try it 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎
Awesome video. I use stihl bar oil and it keeps going up in price. Has anyone found the tackifier he is using? I cut about 30 cords of wood a year and trying to cut cost with out sacrificing performance. I have unlimited hydraulic oil and used engine oil. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I use canola, vegetable, peanut oils from the kitchen. You can buy this stuff where I live for 6 to 9 dollars a gallon. The oil is biodegradable and NON TOXIC !!!! THE OIL you use BRUCE is toxic to the woods you are cutting firewood in fella. 20 bucks for a gallon is just crazy. Nice video fella too. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
Well, toxic is a pretty strong word. I’m only planning to burn the wood, not eat it. But it’s good to hear that you are doing your part to save the planet. Your work area must smell awesome.
A couple of people have commented that Lucus Oil Stabilizer has similar properties as tackifier. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing to support the channel.
Running a tree business yr round, I rarely buy bar oil, the guy who picks up my logs, trades for bar and engine oil, and grease. He has a business selling lubricants. The logs aren't worth much, but, they are worth that , for sure.
Wow that’s nuts. I think I can buy a gallon of synthetic motor oil cheaper than that when it’s on sale at Canadian Tire! Did Alberta run out of oil? 😂. Maybe the Feds added carbon tax to bar oil too?
The stihl dealers here in Florida are charging near $50.00 per gallon now. Talk about some serious gouging. Husqvarna premium oil is around $25.00 per gallon. There classic is up to $14 from about $8.00 before 2020 lock down.
Only takes 30 seconds to clean my bench before making a video and since it’s a weld shop all the tools go into the toolbox and cabinets to keep the grinding dust off. Pegboard? The 1960’s are calling and want it back. 😂😂. But thanks for taking the time to watch anyway.
Gotta have pegboard! I always promote it. Auto shop in highschool hooked me on that. If there's an empty hook you find that tool. Tool boxes are for specialty tools. I have ALL hand tools on the wall😊. Takes 2 seconds to get a wrench socket. No toolbox digging!
That’s like finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow! If prices keep going up we will be tracking the daily price of a gallon of bar oil the same way a barrel of oil gets reported ! Sad stuff.
I don't think you want to - bar lubricant is no less important than it is in your gearbox / transmission or condom - these are things where compromise just doesn't cut the mustard
That’s a good idea. Next time I do some mixing I’ll bring everything into the house for a few hours first. Thanks for commenting and please consider subscribing to the channel for future videos you may find interesting.
It seems to me that a lot of the aftermarket oil additives must just be tackifier or something similar. Most are the consistency of sticky thick honey and are made to mix in with 4-5 quarts of motor oil. Might be worth a try in used motor oil.
Yes I agree. I recently picked up a bottle of STP oil additive to do a comparison video between that and the commercial tackifier that I use. Should prove interesting.
That’s a lot better than any price I’ve seen or have been reported in the comments. Good deal for sure. Maybe prices are going to head back down for summer weight oil. I’m actually heading to Husqvarna dealership this week, I’ll let you know the prices out here in Southern Ontario.
Absolutely! If she gives you the green light run to the tractor dealership, I’m partial to Kubota, before she asks too many questions and changes her mind😂. I bought the wife a dump trailer for her birthday so I could spruce up a few of her flowerbeds. Thanks for watching.
I think that is about 3/4 of a gallon. It’s a cheapie from the dollar store and doesn’t have any measurements on it. You can always tailor it to the cutting season. As long as you get the stringiness between your thumb and index finger when you check the tackiness you’re on the right track.
I've been using a mixture of used oil mixed with new 80/90 weight gear oil . Every time I change gear oil in diffs there leftover in one of the containers which just accumulates on my shelves.
That sounds like it would work pretty well also. How is the viscosity in the winter months? Do you need to adjust the ratio to get thinner oil? One thing I hate about differential fluid is the smell. My 4wheeler is full time locked and the truck is limited slip and that oil stinks.
Yes it does smell but it is sticky enough to work , I still use a john deere saw I bought new in 83 and I started using this mix about 15 yrs ago. Of course I dont cut wood for a living but I've got property and cut down about 10 trees a yr due to beetle kill. Haven't ever replaced the bar so I'm good with dealing with the smell
Hello. Thanks for watching and commenting. I somewhat agree that many used oils are adequate for use as bar oil, but I wouldn’t think of using used oil to do an oil change on my vehicles and unfortunately the way prices have increased with inflation and greedflation , none of my chainsaws are south of $1500.00 in today’s market and 18”-20” bars will probably run around $150-$200. So in some instances “cheap” and “ good enough” aren’t worth the trouble.
Thanks for watching. I’m definitely going to try to do a better job with the video production in the future. Hopefully Santa will bring me a microphone. 🤞. Please consider supporting the efforts by subscribing.
Not as a tackifier. That’s a lubricant. Go to Canadian Tire and buy STP oil additive. It’s as close as you are going to get to tackifier. Add it to the base used oil that you are using and you should be fine.
In a very cold climate will this mix viscosity stay thin enough to get through the reservoir and pump my supertec walmart bar oil does better than my Husqvarna bar oil
Yes. Not a problem. The hydraulic oil is very thin and you can add as much tackifier as you like. More tackifier will decrease the viscosity and vise-versa.
Lots of good comments about the STP and Lucas products. Seems like a great alternative to the commercial tackifier that I’m using. Thanks for watching. Please consider supporting the channel by subscribing.
Husqvarna bar oil is now $25 bucks (USD) per gallon, the same store (Lowe's) also sells PRO SELECT 128-oz Conventional Bar and Chain Oil, $15 bucks. The pro-select is much thinner oil and doesn't have as much of the tacky substance in it. Still too expensive for either one. Thanks for the tip............
Like everything else unfortunately. Free oil of any sort is probably the best kind. Save the 💵 for ethanol free fuel if you can find it. That’s a whole other topic. Thanks for watching.
Just like all the repugnants thinking that the President controls oil and gas prices. Gas prices are way down right now why aren’t you thanking Biden? Gas and oil prices are determined by supply and demand and cost to bring to market. The President doesn’t control that. Get a clue.
Rather the owners of the government. Multi-national corporations and multi-billionaire oligarchs that keep the populations busy blaming the left vs. right, blue vs. red, conservatives vs. liberals. Understanding the ownership is the first step, the rest will be dependent on our children and grandchildren.
While I like the idea of re using things and having lots of used hydraulic oils I would absolutely NOT use hydraulic oil for chainsaw. Here is why, hydraulic oils contains many nasty petro-chemicals that are toxic & the bar&chain are flinging and misting these into the environment you work in as well as where the people you love and care for visit. Chainsaw bar oil is vegetable oil based and non-toxic. Maybe there is a food-grade waste oil solution to this? Restaurants have lots of waste oil that could be repurposed?
Thanks for watching. To my knowledge the only bar oil that is vegetable oil based is labeled as such. Stihl has their Bio-oil, otherwise standard bar oil base is produced by petroleum companies. While I agree that no exposure to chemicals is best, chainsaw gloves and chaps protect well from skin contact and unlike 2 stroke exhaust fumes the bar oil is never burned or atomized. Unless things have improved significantly since bio- oils were introduced, the biggest complaint I’ve heard is the shelf life and oil going bad from summer cutting temperatures. I’m not sure I’m ready to switch yet, but thanks for sharing your thoughts.
@@buildingthebruce You are right about it being petroleum based in most cases. Either way the hydraulic oil is not something you want in the air or environment. In small quantities the harm is probably nil or close. But if you do lots of wood it adds up to lots of oil being spread around.
Certainly not worth the effort for whatever insignificant savings would be realized on chain and bar oil. Also, the advantages of manufacturer's improvements to chain and bar oil in real time are totally missed, especially when it's a considerable amount of time (10 plus years) to consume the blending oil to eliminate slinging. Shelf life alone would have an impact on its effectiveness. Consequently, the drain oil mentioned also leaves a lot to be desired for use as chain and bar oil considering it' was intended for totally different purposes. It's really surprising that someone who depends on quality products for maintaining equipment for their livelihood would cut corners on something so critical as a quality lubricant for their chain saw.
That’s a real load of rubbish. I’m guessing that you’ve never ran a saw, let alone dropping trees, bucking logs or anything else to do with trees other then hugging them. The base oil in a synthetic high performance hydraulic fluid is undoubtedly far superior to any bar oil manufactured. If kubota is willing to trust it in a $100,000 tractor then I’m willing to bet it’s good enough to keep a chainsaw chain lubricated. The fact that you mention shelf life is a testament to your lack of knowledge in this matter. What do you think happens to it? It’s not milk left out in the counter. Have you read any of the comments about cooking oil, peanut oil, vegetable oil? Somehow, millions of chainsaws are still cutting just fine using just about anything that makes metal slide. I’ve probably forgotten more than you will ever know about keeping equipment serviced and in proper repair. Lol. Anytime you want to learn to run a saw, you let me know and I’ll show you how it’s done, and after 25 years and thousands of cords you might be qualified to hang out with me. Good luck to you.
I think the CO-OP stores are still around, but not in urban areas. Small towns where people need a good assortment of items to keep the homestead and farm going. We pass a few on the way up to our northern property. Everything around southern Ontario is Peavy Mart and headed in a different direction from CO- OP. Mostly high school students working there with pretty limited knowledge I find. Good for bird seed and flannel coats! Thanks for watching.
To be honest, I can't tell that there is any significant difference in the wear on my chains and bars regardless of what oil I use. I do notice a significant improvement in wear when I keep my chains razor sharp. Of course cutting firewood here in central Missouri is nowhere near as serious of a proposition as cutting in Canada, I just don't need as much.
Another point to consider is that even if the bar did not last as long with used oil, for what you spend on only a few gallons of bar oil you could buy a new bar.
It works great, can't get used oil smell out of cloths.
Something I've found with using older slow revving saws, the oil/tackifier used doesn't really matter much as the chain isn't slinging it off nearly as bad as the little modern rippers that make their power at twice the revs. Get some old 80-100cc saw for a fraction of the price as the latest greatest, use semi-chisel .404, and cut with a sharp chain for the whole day without needing to sharpen. It's amazing how some of the best methods have been lost to marketing in the last 30 years. Faster, lighter, smaller.. none of that matters if your cutting firewood.
Torque vs RPM. I agree with you on a lot of points. One thing that has improved I feel is the anti- vibration aspect of the new saws. My Pioneer will pull through wood all day long no problem if I could hold onto it that long!
Good video. Tks. Maybe could you just use STP for a tackifire??
You can’t stop the people…we always find a way. Good job sir!
My gasoline powered engines all use synthetic motor oil. When I change the oil, I reuse the engine oil as chainsaw bar oil. I've never had any problems yet and I have been doing it for many years.
I think what your doing is great always in for getting double duty out of something! My father logged and I can't ever remember him using bar oil, used motor oil from anything. If oil comes from a motor after 3000 miles it still has lubrication values. As for contaminated there's plenty in tree bark and sawdust. I own 3 chainsaws and I don't use them very often so I use bar oil.
I first used a chainsaw over 50 years ago. I didn't even realize they made bar oil for many years. Motor oil was what I learned as a norm.
About 16 years ago bought a new I saw the price of oil it jumped a buck so I had extra money and bought eight cases then 3 gallons each came back 2 weeks later bought six more winter oil than summer still have 12 cases of it at 3 bucks a gallon I'm 62 years old I don't think I'll run out😅😅😅 like the idea of what you're doing thank you
You are sitting on a whole lot of money with all that oil. Planning ahead pays off in more ways than one. Thanks for watching.
Looks like a reasonable thing to do to make use of used tractor fluid. Only hard part is finding the tackifier.
Something that is sticky like that is Lucas oil. Some might be more than others, like transmission additive, or gear oil additive. I know the transmission stop leak is crazy sticky.
Ya I googled that stuff and didnt have any luck finding it. Anyone else find a good tackifier yo use? I wonder if using tackifier in used filter motor oil or vegetable oil would be good ad well.
@@vansicklejerry I suspect one would have to call an oil distributor and hope they would sell to the public. I couldn't find anything online either. So, a decent idea but it just isn't feasible.
Lucas is heavy oil, with polymer tackifier. You fellas must’ve skipped right by my comment. You can buy it anywhere. Canadian Tire has small to large maybe 3 or 4 litre jugs.
@@leebdj1949I love the video. It has me hoping I can find tackifier cheap.. I'm gonna watch for it at auctions, estate sales, etc... at renovating or moving businesses also.. I can find that Lucas product too! In Minnesota... And that is exactly the product I thought of when he demonstrated the old (10yrs old) commercial tackifier product he is using. I think STP is a fair match to his tackifier. And I find it available at many stores. Comes in approximately an 8oz. blue plastic bottle. I don't mix my own Bar and Chain oils yet..., but I buy some various bar and chains oils for my saws and I specifically buy the summer blend type (because it is thicker in the bottle) bar and chain oils when I'm stocking up supplies to make my own vehicle rust-proofing treatment. I also buy STP, and WD40 (reason not explained) ... to mix into the store bought summer type Bar and chain oils just to thicken it and help it stay on the vehicle under sides, chassis, inner hidden spaces, and seams after it has been applied as a rustproofing.
I add 1 bottle STP to 1 gallon of summer type bar and chain and about 3-4 oz of WD40. mix and heat to about 200-250 deg. F.
It has to be prewarmed to allow it to be applied to the vehicle (it is super thick at less than 90 deg F.) It may not work well in a chainsaw unless it's extreme summer hot weather during use.
However, Works better than ANY OTHER RUSTPROOFING I'VE FOUND! (based on (9yrs) real life all year around Minnesota testing as of now.)
I use the motor oil from my truck oil changes as well as regular 10W-40 motor oil with STP added to cut the slinging down. Been doing it for years and my bar and chain have held up well . I dropped and cut nearly an acre of trees the past 2 years on the same bar/chain with no issues or excessive wear and getting ready to cut some more dead standing and felled trees through this winter. I cant see spending $10 on a quart of bar oil when motor oil is $2.50 a quart
Same here!
Where are you finding motor oil for $2.50 a QT. A Gallon of bar oil is about $10-14 where I'm from in Alabama. JS!
@@lancehenthorn17 walmart and $1.25 at the Dollar store.
where do you find motor oil for 2.50/qt????
@@kenberscheit948 Try the dollar stores. I use old engine oil mixed with STP. No problems here in Ozarks.
All bar oil slings off the tip of the bar, somewhat, ( more in the summer, obviously) that is how you check to see if you are oiling. Or You can check by pulling the chain away from the bar, and looking at the drive links, whilst it is not running.
Good news, Tractor Sply has gallon bar oil, add 1 qt STP, won't sling off the chain.
I have used food grade vegetable oil purchased by the gallon at Sam's club. You can add it to bar oil or run it straight, works well for me.
Don't let it sit though that stuff sets like glue over winter.
That stuff sticks like hell and very hard to clean off. Its nasty on clothing too.
I went to the Sthil dealer last week to buy a new bar for my MS391 the tip seized up due to lack of oiling, mainly my fault for not doing enough cleaning on the bar and using heavy weight bar oil in hot weather. The dealer told me to set the oiler to maximum and use lighter weight oil, funny thing is I wanted to buy a jug of winter weight “Sthil oil” but they didn’t have any, the sales representative told me nobody is buying it because it’s to expensive, they now sell a no name cheaper oil. I’m going to try your mixture, thanks for doing the video.
Thanks for watching. Sorry to hear about the bar, those are pretty pricey as well. Glad the video helped out, we are all in this together!
Tried used engine oil for a while in my saws, ( run like 6-8 saws daily, yr round.) It did pretty good, just messy looking all the time.
Yea but I used parts washer after each day and cleaned it
No big deal 😊
@@philliphall5198 Dang , seemed like I was always busy fixing broke down old equipment, wish I had the time for the washing thing.
Non-detergent, to keep from softening your seals. Something sticky (tackifier, STP, etc). Lubricating oil ... not hydraulic fluid. Centrifuge and/or Franz (toilet paper filter) clean engine oil, after the additives are burned out of it. Eye of newt and toe of frog works well, too.
Get some magnets and set up a system to pour hyd oil slowly on the magnets and pull out the metal, I heat it up and add a little Lukas hub oil in 6 gallon steel tank and use HD honing drill and mix it 20 minutes
Works great for me
That’s an interesting idea about the magnet. I’ve never thought that there might be metal in the oil but that makes sense. During the Christmas break I’ll be changing the fluid in the tractor transmission again and have a fresh 42 litre supply of oil. Happy to have it considering the current price of bar oil. Thanks for the comment.
@@buildingthebruce yes Sir I work at a major frac company as shop supervisor for 45 years and I was get a lot of hyd oil and we filter it in to storage tanks for recycling but if major pump or motor failure it went in waste tanks which company paid by the gallon to remove. So we gave it away
I was picky and that’s why I used the magnets and I have waste oil heater in my personal shop
I’m retired with plenty of waste hyd oil
Tried peanut oil ( was cheaper than bar oil. ) for about a yr. Running saws daily in the tree business. It did pretty good, but, gums up, around the outside of the saw, plus, way before lunch time, it smelled too good. Luckily, I can just pass my expenses on to the customer.
Stp or lucas mixed with any 40wt or higher works great.
The price is getting extremely expensive now and I’m trying to figure out how to cut the cost 😊
Thank you for information and advice
Thank Biden !!
I mix a little bit of bar oil with used oil from my oil changes seems to work.
The same kind of idea: A Depression Era man once told me to filter drain oil and mix in STP for bar oil. I haven't seen STP in many years. At one time in a pinch, I put STP in a gear box, and that gear box is still spinning today.
This is exactly what I do.... All my used oil as well as new 10w40 gets stp and used.
I think in your case its a smart solution with the tackafier. If your waste oil is of poor quality perhaps add some metal cutting oil to it improve the wear resistance properties.
Vegetable oil is also a good option if you use your chainsaw often. Never leave it in/on for storage as it varnishes up your parts exposed to air😂😢.
That's a great idea! I've always wondered why it's so expensive... I have to pay $25-$30 for 4 liters!!!
I found the tackifier, it's now called Lubrizol 5907A Tackifier.
That’s great. I’m glad it will help you out and thanks for sharing the name of the tackifier.
Where did you find the Lubrizol 5907A Tackifier? I've been looking and can't find it anywhere.
@@bobhanke6401 I don't know where to buy it actually, I just found that the name was changed when searching the internet. I also would like to know where to buy it 😮
I use 1 gallon used universal tractor transmission oil mixed with 1 bottle of STP oil treatment as a tackifier.
It is an actual chemical co under that name. Have used it for yrs.@@bobhanke6401
Looks like STP. We kids used to add STP in transmissions and rear ends as a tickifier. Good demo.
I bet my wifes kitchenaid mixer would be the ticket for the blending process.
@@SixOFord Well, from experience a blender definitely won’t work but I sure wouldn’t recommend “borrowing” the wife’s mixer. Happy wife = happy life and maybe a new chainsaw with all the money you saved. At least that’s my story. lol.
Don’t forget to amortize in the cost of your wife’s new blender with the cost of your bar oil. LOL Great video, I really like how you are reusing the oil.
Lol. Ya she wasn’t overly impressed, but she still hasn’t asked for a new one.
Thanks for watching.
I have not been able to find that brand of tacifier. I have looked for that lubriko tacifier. Where can I purchase a gallon of it
Great tip! I started mixing bar oil and UDT about 60/40 during covid when they wanted $20/jug at TSC/Peavey, but if i can find some tackifier this is even cheaper! And yes, UDT looks identical coming out as it does going in....
I use STP oil treatment for a tacifier with used ATF for my bar oil! I'm a retired mechanic and get it for free!
Great info Donald thanks!
l have been using canola oil in 4 of my saws for years with no issues chainsaw carver
I've been using cooking oil for years. If you're using chainsaw every day, it's okay. But it clogs up a little if not used very regularly. cost £1.50. That is on my old 08s stihl chainsaw and on my old husky 61 chainsaw
I have to use a paintbrush and gas just to free mine up if it sits too long
Try some Lucas oil stabalizer it is pretty tacky !!
I use my old turkey frying oil.
Oil's oil.
Used motor oil is free! Been using it for years
It’s so bad for you and the environment though 😫
traditional oil or synthetic? Substantial difference in contaminants.
Thanks for the comment, but personally I don’t think I would want to do that. With the price and value of my chainsaws I really can’t see all the contaminants being healthy for the oil pump. My hydraulic oil is almost the same colour after 400 hours as when it was new, used motor oil after an oil change, not so much. And I have so much used hydraulic oil from the tractor I wish I could give some of it away 😂.
Thanks for watching.
It's too thin and non-sticky, will rapidly centrifuge away at the bar tip
I am 80 yrs old and been using used oil for 60 yrs.
Any oil new or used if it is slick and gets between the chain and the bar will work. Wear is caused more by a dull chain. If you sharpen the chain after every few cuts keeping it sharp the engine doesn't have to work as hard and the bar and chain are cooler because you aren't pushing down trying to make it cut. If you don't keep the chain sharp the best most expensive oil won't keep them from wearing.
Ron is correct
It is going to get dirty with sawdust regardless of what oil you use. So a good lubricant is all you need. With synthetics the lubrication of motor oil should be even better.
I never see much wear on my rails the sprocket at the end wears first. I use Super Tech, Bar S, or whatever generic bar oil I find at the farm store. In the winter I mix the cheap bar oil with 10W oil Harvest King or whatever brand from the farm store.
Actually were not pumping oil here hardly at all. It was mostly shut down my the current administration. The pipeline was also shut down and public lands were shut down to oil exploration. We are mostly dependent on foreign oil at this time. We are an energy rich nation with our hands tied when it comes to extracting the enormous amounts of oil we have beneath our feet. At one point in the previous administration a barrel of oil was so cheap it was almost free. The previous administration filled the strategic oil reserves with oil that was about $10 per barrel. This administration sold almost all that oil to China. Something is wrong with this administration. It is what it is and there is no possible way to cover it up.
You can dilute bar oil with used motor oil or used transmission oil to cut cost. Of course STP or similar can be added to used oils too. I add a shot of graphite spray lubricant to provide some dry lube protection in case the chain runs dry from clogged oil passage in the bar. It also helps to shoot the bar and chain with a little spray on graphite dry lube when mounting it.
All good ideas. Thanks for commenting. Please consider subscribing to the channel for future videos that you may find interesting.
There wasn't a thing wrong with the tractor fluid you drained oud either. You just drained out the fluid to make bar oil.
You spent money on tractor oil you didn't need to make bar oil. I can't even picture how this saves money? Brilliant!
Well, kubota tells me when to change the oil and that $40,000 tractor is worth a lot more then the oil, additive and chainsaws combined. Try finding a 35 hp tractor in mint condition without DPF or 30 computer sensors to keep it running without throwing codes and you would understand the situation. That’s how it saves me money.
Well, you have a cheap one. I can't even get a corn head for 40 grand. Also, I doubt you had more than 100hrs on that tranny fluid. No need to change it when it's clean like that. Tranny fluid will go many hrs. in a hobby tractor. I bet you dump discontinued 303 yellow bucket in yer tranny. 🤣🤣@@buildingthebruce
Used motor oil works great.
I like your idea there. Really do I go trough bar oil like candy inert the product that Lucas makes probably the same thing real tacky, sticky stuff. You can get an auto parts store or that even old STP. Because it like thick as honey ,as for winter and summer blind I haven’t been Abel to find it in a yr or 2 I have been using Husky brand because it doesn’t get my chain hot bit iam going to try it 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎
Awesome video. I use stihl bar oil and it keeps going up in price. Has anyone found the tackifier he is using? I cut about 30 cords of wood a year and trying to cut cost with out sacrificing performance. I have unlimited hydraulic oil and used engine oil. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I use canola, vegetable, peanut oils from the kitchen. You can buy this stuff where I live for 6 to 9 dollars a gallon. The oil is biodegradable and NON TOXIC !!!! THE OIL you use BRUCE is toxic to the woods you are cutting firewood in fella.
20 bucks for a gallon is just crazy. Nice video fella too. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
Well, toxic is a pretty strong word. I’m only planning to burn the wood, not eat it. But it’s good to hear that you are doing your part to save the planet. Your work area must smell awesome.
Yes it does Sir. YOU can say edible. @@buildingthebruce
Sounds like a good idea, but try finding "tackifier" for sale, almost impossible
A couple of people have commented that Lucus Oil Stabilizer has similar properties as tackifier. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing to support the channel.
Running a tree business yr round, I rarely buy bar oil, the guy who picks up my logs, trades for bar and engine oil, and grease. He has a business selling lubricants. The logs aren't worth much, but, they are worth that , for sure.
Great method. Sounds good mto me.😊😊
In Alberta we are paying $29.99 to $39.99 per gallon (4 litres). It’s crazy.
Wow that’s nuts. I think I can buy a gallon of synthetic motor oil cheaper than that when it’s on sale at Canadian Tire! Did Alberta run out of oil? 😂. Maybe the Feds added carbon tax to bar oil too?
Alberta ADVANTAGE for you
I’ll pick up used bar and chain oil at garage sales for pennies on the dollar and have several gallons in reserve
The stihl dealers here in Florida are charging near $50.00 per gallon now. Talk about some serious gouging. Husqvarna premium oil is around $25.00 per gallon. There classic is up to $14 from about $8.00 before 2020 lock down.
Thanks for sharing 🙏
Never seen a shop, and work bench, that clean. And... no pegboard on the walls. Guess things are different up there.
Only takes 30 seconds to clean my bench before making a video and since it’s a weld shop all the tools go into the toolbox and cabinets to keep the grinding dust off. Pegboard? The 1960’s are calling and want it back. 😂😂. But thanks for taking the time to watch anyway.
@@buildingthebruce I put pegboard every square inch of my shop walls, from bout waist up. Gotta have my inventory of junk visible for this old guy!🥸
Gotta have pegboard! I always promote it. Auto shop in highschool hooked me on that. If there's an empty hook you find that tool. Tool boxes are for specialty tools. I have ALL hand tools on the wall😊. Takes 2 seconds to get a wrench socket. No toolbox digging!
I go to a lot of rummage sales you would not believe how often I find gallon jugs of chainsaw oil for a dollar .
That’s like finding the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow! If prices keep going up we will be tracking the daily price of a gallon of bar oil the same way a barrel of oil gets reported ! Sad stuff.
@@buildingthebruce oil is going down with gas prices
I don't think you want to - bar lubricant is no less important than it is in your gearbox / transmission or condom - these are things where compromise just doesn't cut the mustard
Best to warm tackifier and oil up so it's easy to blend in.
That’s a good idea. Next time I do some mixing I’ll bring everything into the house for a few hours first. Thanks for commenting and please consider subscribing to the channel for future videos you may find interesting.
Thanks. We've got a load of used cooking oil. I think I might have a go at cleaning it up.
STP Oil Treatment is a tackifier.
I just use windshield washer fluid 😊
It seems to me that a lot of the aftermarket oil additives must just be tackifier or something similar. Most are the consistency of sticky thick honey and are made to mix in with 4-5 quarts of motor oil. Might be worth a try in used motor oil.
Yes I agree. I recently picked up a bottle of STP oil additive to do a comparison video between that and the commercial tackifier that I use. Should prove interesting.
just stocked up for the season and only paid less then 8.00/gallon for commercially available oil , name brand
That’s a lot better than any price I’ve seen or have been reported in the comments. Good deal for sure. Maybe prices are going to head back down for summer weight oil. I’m actually heading to Husqvarna dealership this week, I’ll let you know the prices out here in Southern Ontario.
$31.00 for Husky 3.78 litres. Sounds like you got a great deal!
So, what you were saying is that I need to buy a Kabota tractor. I will have a talk with the wife.
Absolutely! If she gives you the green light run to the tractor dealership, I’m partial to Kubota, before she asks too many questions and changes her mind😂. I bought the wife a dump trailer for her birthday so I could spruce up a few of her flowerbeds. Thanks for watching.
How many ounces, I’m in the US, is your blue container? I get adding 2 oz to-how much transmission oil? I like to be consistent.
Thanks!
I think that is about 3/4 of a gallon. It’s a cheapie from the dollar store and doesn’t have any measurements on it. You can always tailor it to the cutting season. As long as you get the stringiness between your thumb and index finger when you check the tackiness you’re on the right track.
Expensive is relative.
Winter hydraulic fluid is expensive, bar oil not so much, too me.
My time is a premium that few can afford, even me!
Can I use gear oil 80-90 I can’t find tackifier
Lukus oil stabilizer to add tackness to oil.
Someone else mentioned that as well. I think it’s a great idea. Thanks for watching.
Looks like STP. In what way was the blender ruined?? Ha ha
Brilliant!!!
Sounds more like you need to fold it in.... Like maybe you could use a paint mixing stick.
I use old used engine oil, works for me...
I've been using a mixture of used oil mixed with new 80/90 weight gear oil .
Every time I change gear oil in diffs there leftover in one of the containers which just accumulates on my shelves.
That sounds like it would work pretty well also. How is the viscosity in the winter months? Do you need to adjust the ratio to get thinner oil? One thing I hate about differential fluid is the smell. My 4wheeler is full time locked and the truck is limited slip and that oil stinks.
Yes it does smell but it is sticky enough to work , I still use a john deere saw I bought new in 83 and I started using this mix about 15 yrs ago. Of course I dont cut wood for a living but I've got property and cut down about 10 trees a yr due to beetle kill. Haven't ever replaced the bar so I'm good with dealing with the smell
If used oil was good enough for an expensive car or truck engine, it should be fine for a $500 saw!
Hello. Thanks for watching and commenting. I somewhat agree that many used oils are adequate for use as bar oil, but I wouldn’t think of using used oil to do an oil change on my vehicles and unfortunately the way prices have increased with inflation and greedflation , none of my chainsaws are south of $1500.00 in today’s market and 18”-20” bars will probably run around $150-$200. So in some instances “cheap” and “ good enough” aren’t worth the trouble.
This SOUNDS WAAYTOO MUCH !! LIKE ANOTHER RUNNING COMMENTARY ! SHOW ! YOUR REALLY COMPLAINNG !! ABOUT YOUR CHAINSAW ! WASTING OIL !!!!
interesting video. A bit hard to hear at times. Maybe increase the audio.
Thanks for watching. I’m definitely going to try to do a better job with the video production in the future. Hopefully Santa will bring me a microphone. 🤞. Please consider supporting the efforts by subscribing.
I cant find tackifier in Ottawa can I use gear oil #80
Not as a tackifier. That’s a lubricant. Go to Canadian Tire and buy STP oil additive. It’s as close as you are going to get to tackifier. Add it to the base used oil that you are using and you should be fine.
A baker or your Mom would tell you , it's the difference in blending and folding.
i use old engine oil
Does anyone know where to purchase Lubrizol tackifier?
Used motor oil is acidic and will damage the rubber oil seals.
In a very cold climate will this mix viscosity stay thin enough to get through the reservoir and pump my supertec walmart bar oil does better than my Husqvarna bar oil
Yes. Not a problem. The hydraulic oil is very thin and you can add as much tackifier as you like. More tackifier will decrease the viscosity and vise-versa.
That tackifier looks about as thick as STP Additive.
Lots of good comments about the STP and Lucas products. Seems like a great alternative to the commercial tackifier that I’m using.
Thanks for watching. Please consider supporting the channel by subscribing.
Where can I buy tackifier
Try an oil blending company. I use Commercial Oil in Hamilton.
@@buildingthebruce thanks il let you
Ya you can thank the greedy oil companies for the increase. All they care about is PROFIT. MILLIONS OF DOLLARS OF GREEDY PROFIT
Do you have a website where you buy that lubriko from??
In southern Ontario, Commercial Oil Company is the supplier that I found it at.
You need a Zahn cup temperature gauge and stopwatch
I change my own oil in my car and just use that. I think the "sling" "antisling"is bs.
Yep, they’re really taking the piss with the price of a basic fn lubricant these days…
Lucas
As I was watching this video I was saying to myself the same thing
me too.
Your comment should be at the top so people could save 20 mins
I’ve asked the same question about vegan leather……
I’m from Ottawa ont
used 10 wt hyd oil, works fine, if you think it's still too thick, cut it with some kero.
Husqvarna bar oil is now $25 bucks (USD) per gallon, the same store (Lowe's) also sells PRO SELECT 128-oz Conventional Bar and Chain Oil, $15 bucks. The pro-select is much thinner oil and doesn't have as much of the tacky substance in it. Still too expensive for either one. Thanks for the tip............
Canola oil works good but has gone up in price😢
Like everything else unfortunately. Free oil of any sort is probably the best kind. Save the 💵 for ethanol free fuel if you can find it. That’s a whole other topic.
Thanks for watching.
JEEZ, you call this a 23 minute video quick ? In reality 5-10 minutes is quick !
This video was too repetitive on the same info 🤦♂️
I bet you can thank joe biden for the price increase.
If you had no clue that ruzzia supplied 30-40% of all oil and gas to Europe and now the US exports more than any other country including Saudi Arabia
Just like all the repugnants thinking that the President controls oil and gas prices. Gas prices are way down right now why aren’t you thanking Biden? Gas and oil prices are determined by supply and demand and cost to bring to market. The President doesn’t control that. Get a clue.
Yep, along with everything else. Inflation is way higher than they show. We are losing this constitutional republic.
Rather the owners of the government. Multi-national corporations and multi-billionaire oligarchs that keep the populations busy blaming the left vs. right, blue vs. red, conservatives vs. liberals. Understanding the ownership is the first step, the rest will be dependent on our children and grandchildren.
Hell yeah brother
The strawberry daiquiris your wife made last Friday tasted like crap 😂
Lol. Thanks for watching.
Modern bio bar oils should be non mineral based as it eventually gets into our water supplies via streams and rivers etc.
This video is absolutely agonizing,..The guy cannot seem to get to the point.
While I like the idea of re using things and having lots of used hydraulic oils I would absolutely NOT use hydraulic oil for chainsaw.
Here is why, hydraulic oils contains many nasty petro-chemicals that are toxic & the bar&chain are flinging and misting these into the environment you work in as well as where the people you love and care for visit.
Chainsaw bar oil is vegetable oil based and non-toxic.
Maybe there is a food-grade waste oil solution to this? Restaurants have lots of waste oil that could be repurposed?
Thanks for watching.
To my knowledge the only bar oil that is vegetable oil based is labeled as such. Stihl has their Bio-oil, otherwise standard bar oil base is produced by petroleum companies. While I agree that no exposure to chemicals is best, chainsaw gloves and chaps protect well from skin contact and unlike 2 stroke exhaust fumes the bar oil is never burned or atomized. Unless things have improved significantly since bio- oils were introduced, the biggest complaint I’ve heard is the shelf life and oil going bad from summer cutting temperatures. I’m not sure I’m ready to switch yet, but thanks for sharing your thoughts.
@@buildingthebruce You are right about it being petroleum based in most cases. Either way the hydraulic oil is not something you want in the air or environment. In small quantities the harm is probably nil or close. But if you do lots of wood it adds up to lots of oil being spread around.
To much talking
Certainly not worth the effort for whatever insignificant savings would be realized on chain and bar oil. Also, the advantages of manufacturer's improvements to chain and bar oil in real time are totally missed, especially when it's a considerable amount of time (10 plus years) to consume the blending oil to eliminate slinging. Shelf life alone would have an impact on its effectiveness. Consequently, the drain oil mentioned also leaves a lot to be desired for use as chain and bar oil considering it' was intended for totally different purposes. It's really surprising that someone who depends on quality products for maintaining equipment for their livelihood would cut corners on something so critical as a quality lubricant for their chain saw.
That’s a real load of rubbish. I’m guessing that you’ve never ran a saw, let alone dropping trees, bucking logs or anything else to do with trees other then hugging them. The base oil in a synthetic high performance hydraulic fluid is undoubtedly far superior to any bar oil manufactured. If kubota is willing to trust it in a $100,000 tractor then I’m willing to bet it’s good enough to keep a chainsaw chain lubricated. The fact that you mention shelf life is a testament to your lack of knowledge in this matter. What do you think happens to it? It’s not milk left out in the counter. Have you read any of the comments about cooking oil, peanut oil, vegetable oil? Somehow, millions of chainsaws are still cutting just fine using just about anything that makes metal slide. I’ve probably forgotten more than you will ever know about keeping equipment serviced and in proper repair. Lol. Anytime you want to learn to run a saw, you let me know and I’ll show you how it’s done, and after 25 years and thousands of cords you might be qualified to hang out with me. Good luck to you.
I remember when TSC was CO.OP a four litre jug was 6.99 on sale
I think the CO-OP stores are still around, but not in urban areas. Small towns where people need a good assortment of items to keep the homestead and farm going. We pass a few on the way up to our northern property. Everything around southern Ontario is Peavy Mart and headed in a different direction from CO- OP. Mostly high school students working there with pretty limited knowledge I find. Good for bird seed and flannel coats! Thanks for watching.
👍👍
To be honest, I can't tell that there is any significant difference in the wear on my chains and bars regardless of what oil I use. I do notice a significant improvement in wear when I keep my chains razor sharp. Of course cutting firewood here in central Missouri is nowhere near as serious of a proposition as cutting in Canada, I just don't need as much.
STP will make a sticky emulsion also and cheaper.