Click below 👇👇👇 for the links to the other questions... ⭐30 DAYS OF QUESTIONS⭐ - (Links will be updated as the videos are put out) 👉DAY 1 - Is A Stihl 4-Mix Engine A 2-Stroke Or A 4-Stroke? ➜ ruclips.net/video/QF__8hs0bo8/видео.html 👉DAY 2 - Are John Deere riding lawn mowers made by MTD? ➜ ruclips.net/video/iCJsWsd6SLo/видео.html 👉DAY 3 - How Do I Break In A New Chainsaw? ➜ ruclips.net/video/NE4Q1Y8v2U4/видео.html 👉DAY 4 - Does Soaking WeedEater Line In Water Actually Help? ➜ ruclips.net/video/84hFN_jveMc/видео.html 👉DAY 5 - Why Does My Briggs Lawn Mower Say Never Change The Oil? ➜ ruclips.net/video/IVGmetgOcgo/видео.html 👉DAY 6 - Can I Use Outboard Mix Oil In My Chain Saw? ➜ ruclips.net/video/AlmegbfUJpU/видео.html 👉DAY 7 - What Is Your Favorite Chain Saw? ➜ ruclips.net/video/wMJeH0jCcHM/видео.html 👉DAY 8 - Why Does My Grass Chute Keep Plugging Up? ➜ ruclips.net/video/WtbhiNy42IU/видео.html 👉DAY 9 - What Does The Purge Bulb Actually Do? ➜ ruclips.net/video/sbDPU73fQQY/видео.html 👉DAY 10 - What Is Your Favorite Penetrating Oil? ➜ ruclips.net/video/jrzNv_Db0ZA/видео.html 👉DAY 11 - How Do I UnFlood My Chainsaw Or Weed Eater? ➜ ruclips.net/video/n0UnfoL5qWk/видео.html 👉DAY 12 - What Is The Best 2-Stroke Gas / Oil Mix Ratio? ➜ ruclips.net/video/-bsbKqZbyrw/видео.html 👉DAY 13 - Why Does My Leaf Blower Bog Out When I Pull The Trigger? ➜ ruclips.net/video/O4fMjSg7Z_U/видео.html 👉DAY 14 - What Does WARRANTY Actually Mean? ➜ ruclips.net/video/D-8054Q6vx0/видео.html 👉DAY 15 - Can I Remove ETHANOL From My Gas? ➜ ruclips.net/video/qZo4ItYiMCQ/видео.html 👉DAY 16 - Why Is My Pressure Washer So Hard To Pull Start? ➜ ruclips.net/video/Apipsdmf8qs/видео.html 👉DAY 17 - Why Does My Chain Saw Leak Oil? ➜ ruclips.net/video/3P5ITSFWUZg/видео.html 👉DAY 19 - Should I Buy My John Deere Lawn Mower From Home Depot Or My Dealer? ➜ ruclips.net/video/IZRjSYwYhyc/видео.html 👉DAY 20 - Do Battery Powered Chain Saws Work Good? ➜ ruclips.net/video/Zb8XNGfHsQU/видео.html 👉DAY 21 - Honda Is Stopping Lawn Mower Production? FAKE NEWS!! ➜ ruclips.net/video/y4TSwWHFb-o/видео.html 👉DAY 22 - Will cleaning the rust off my flywheel help with spark? ➜ ruclips.net/video/w8-exMgUhuc/видео.html 👉DAY 23 - NO SPARK! How Do I Know If My Coil / Ignition Module Is Faulty? ➜ ruclips.net/video/HBFz_N0SxuY/видео.html 👉DAY 24 - Will I DESTROY My Pressure Washer By Doing THIS? ➜ ruclips.net/video/22OlLNAZKa8/видео.html 👉DAY 25 - How Do I Fix An On/Off Kill Switch? ➜ ruclips.net/video/IyaUpGh19CI/видео.html 👉DAY 26 - Why doesn’t my lawnmower have an oil drain plug on it? ➜ ruclips.net/video/BXJbWWhMk0s/видео.html 👉DAY 27 - Why Is There Black Oil Coming Out Of My Muffler? ➜ ruclips.net/video/SNHdUh5tRoA/видео.html 👉DAY 28 - Can I Put A LONGER Bar On My Chain Saw? ➜ ruclips.net/video/OrRux_GSQQQ/видео.html 👉DAY 29 - Why Does My Engine STOP Running After A Few Minutes? ➜ ruclips.net/video/m5LEwNi-geM/видео.html 👉DAY 30 - Can I Make A Lawn Mower Run On Propane? ➜ ruclips.net/video/UkYCa1WhFGs/видео.html
In alaska we all exclusively use used motor oil in our saws, we filter it through a coffee filter first and hit it with a magnet to remove metal flakes, the standard bar oil is waaay to thick a 20 below zero to even work, but 5w30 works just fine, been doing it for years with absolutely zero issues. Plus, why pay for stihls overpriced oil?! I cut 60 plus cords of wood a year, and have never had a single problem doing this.
I do the same, I purchased a small block Chevy oil pump converted so I can use a filter on it. I filter it through a k&n oil filter and store it in jugs to use .
You can't mechanically filter out all the metal particulates with a coffee filter. You're getting away with it because of limited use. We used to see commercial pro saw oilers fail regularly using used motor oil. You're stepping over dollars to pick up pennies. Paying for the correct type/weight bar oil isn't going to bankrupt/cripple you by cutting 60+ cords a yr. Sure, you'll always have brethren that do the same thing.....doesn't make it correct....
@@jasonburguess We used to thin bar oil when it was that cold with diesel. You still retain some of the lubricity 'stickiness' of true bar oil that way. You have ZERO stickiness with waste oil... it's just slung off. Cold temps may be saving you some from normal temp wear.
I never did this but I had a friend that never used anything but old motor oil for chain lube all his life. He never had a problem and he cut a lot of wood.
I tried using straight used synthetic oil for bar oil. I had it in jugs for about 6 months and left it to settle. Then pour it into another jug but not the last part. There was always different stuff in the bottom part. When I used it I found that the chain would only need to be tightened half as much as it did with bar oil. I used it for year's and cut a lot of firewood as that was our source of heat. Put bar oil in sometimes and found I was back tightening the chain more often. Our wood stove was used 24 hours a day for about 6 months of the year. Dale in Canada 🇨🇦
Good quality bar oil is way more sticky than used or new motor oil for a reason. It clings better to the bar and chain for better lubrication. Only time I have heard of guys using motor oil (Professionals, not home gamers) is when it gets really cold out. Motor oil will thin the bar oil a little to help it flow at cold temps.
There is no difference in the durability of chainsaw components between special chainsaw oil and used car oil in good condition, none. The only reason to use specialized oil is environment and health, engine oil is very toxic, specially if its used. Pros only use specialized oil when they are under Government and company regular inspections that demand it but when they are not most will just go for the used engine oil.
@@corey6393 Other than having to refill the oil deposit faster, ecology and dirtiness it makes practically no difference in the performance of the chainsaw and the durability of its componentes.
The bar wears out faster. The sprocket on the tip gets loose. And if you gun the throttle one time not cutting you’re wearing a stripe of dirty oil. Bar & chain oil is cheaper.
@@davehaggerty3405 No its not, even if the bar wears out faster is not noticeable, by the time you need a new 80 or something dollars bar (depending on the size and brand, can be a lot cheaper) you have saved hundreds of dollars in bar oil. Heck, you can even use kitchen oil without problems. I don´t advice anything, i´m just saying a reality. Everybody can do as they like.
@@justanotherviewer52 yeah well doing almost 400 CORDS of firewood a year and residential tree removal and land clearing nothing wears out a chain faster than nails or working on a fence line and as far as wearing out bars ... usually that comes from my guys running the saws in the dirt..... but if you change your oil after 2 or 3 thousand miles there usually ain't a whole lot of anything that will wear out the bar before you hit barbwire or concrete epoxy a home owner pours into a hole in the tree
Thumbs-up Steve... i have a couple old saws that i use old motor oil that has not been in and engine but I'd never use old used motor oil... i remember my Dad In Law using it once for only a few minutes and he said "that ain't gonna work " and that was the last time the thought of using it crossed his and my mind
Never done it myself but I have wondered if you could do this. Thank you for answering my question AND explaining why you shouldn't, keep up the awesome work! 👏
I have filtered used Full synthetic oil that is really clean and used it as bar oil but usually I use bar oil and shake the bottle and if it sloshes like water it is too thin. I shake all the brands and buy the bottle that is the quietest which means it is thicker and will not fling off the chain as easy.
I cut over 70 cords of wood a year. I have several Stihl saws and use only clean used motor oil out of gasoline engines as diesel engine oil is too thick and nasty. Here is the thing. My engine I took it out of is a lot more delicate than a cutting chain and my engine was running fine on it. Also I turn my oil up all the way so it uses all it can and can oil good. I fill my oil full and my fuel 3/4 and that way I run out of fuel first. A dry chain is bad. Also about grit. There is so much dirt and sand in the bark of trees the little amount of abrasives in the oil is insignificant.
I have to admit, there was a year about 25 years ago that I was cutting a lot of firewood.and used it . It was nasty and smelly and I wouldn't want to do it again...but it did the job. I also was my own mechanic,so I could yell at myself.
I use a 50/50 mix of used car oil and thick bar oil to save a few bucks and use up my used oil. If you drain the oil into a clean container, there's no grit in it. If it has grit in it coming out of a running motor, the motor is about to blow up.
I don't know about you but when the engine oil comes out of my vehicles it is in very good condition. I started using it sixty years ago in the days when all saws had manual oilers even with automatic ones. Because I used much more of the free stuff than the expensive version (mine was never 'black' by the way!) I was almost washing away the contaminants. The bit of abrasiveness that might have been present was as nothing compared to the salt water , sand and gravel that we always had to cut. Never had a problem and my bars and chains lasted as long as anyone's. Longer than most as mine always had plenty of oil on the chain. Though few were and are rich enough to use brand name new bar oil. Wasn't even offered in those days. Wasn't until many years later that the marketing wanks started putting it on the shelf. My saws never 'splattered either'. I cleaned my saws in any case and they rarely ever went to a commercial shop. If they had I can guarantee you that the mechanic wouldn't have noticed. His hands were in the solvent tank and Brake Clean so much that that would be the least of his complaints even if it were a problem. Even if you do the '100K' oil changes your oil will be fine if you run it through a coffee filter and just let it sit. The solids drop out of solution and go to the bottom of the jug. Any excessive oil went into the wood and was burned in the stove as a vapor.
I use engine drain oil to oil the wheel bushings on all wheels, deck wheels and steering components on my riding lawnmowers. Years ago, I didn't when I was buying oil for less than 50 cents a quart.
Thank you Steve for shooting my great idea down. I have just changed oil in my 6.0 powerstroke and kubota m6800 tractor. Therefore I'm in possession of a little less than 7 gallons of used oil. I'm in the woods sawing right now and NOT in possession of any saw chain oil. So I thought kill 3 birds with one stone. Save a trip to the store. Get rid of something I'd have to haul to the recycle center and 3.... save some money. Let me say I disagree with one statement you made. Bar oil ain't cheap. To me cheap would be 5 dollars a gallon. I'm paying 15 at ace is the place. At 6 gallons of used oil that's $90 bucks. I'm gonna take your advise anyway. Thanks. Your videos are the best. Technical detail and
Filtered, it might work, but you are right. It would likely make a slippery mess of the saw. I wouldn't do anything to make it easier to drop my running chainsaw on my foot
Well put Steve adding to that the microscopic metal shavings in the used motor oil will wear the chain,bar grooves and bar nose sprocket out prematurely i have heard of people using pure vegetable oil in cold climates STIHL and ECHO make a biodegradable bar and chain oil based on vegetable oil just with other ingredients to make it stick to the bar and chain better.
I had thoughts of adding stp to new engine oil to make my one bar oil . When my dad was buying the chainsaws I ran whatever I could find he made sure I had bar oil. Now that I bought my saws and maintain them . I look at it all different. Don’t run when chain is dull, use good stuff for the saw . Don’t leave out in the rain . Now that bar oil is 20-25 bucks a gallon in CA. It sure makes me think can I make my own cheaper ? I saw bar oil for 14 bucks a gallon . I bought a gallon thinking I saved 10 bucks or so. I change my own engine oil . It’s a dirty oil . I just can’t do it to a saw I spent 1200 bucks on . I can’t do it to a saw I borrowed from someone either . I have a friend that does it . I will see how that goes for him .
All my saws have had used motor oil for the bar from brand new. 3 saws in the last 40 years and have never bought bar oil. I do turn the pump volume up a bit higher though. Every 10 to 13 years my saws are pretty much worn out, the bar as well.
good advice as always ! I agree it’s probably not the best option but i have used cooking oil mixed with tranny fluid, motor oil or whatever else i have lying around for my whole life and it hasn’t failed me yet. 🍻
I used wast oil from my lawnmower in my first Stihl chainsaw and I think it lead to its demise. I basically ate a hole through the oil compartment perhaps due to the contaminants in it. I'm considering using brand new hydraulic oil that I run on my Kubota transmission, but was looking for advice beforehand which brought me here!
Hello from Northern Wisconsin. I used to use old motor oil in a pinch but when I'm drinking water out of a shallow well that I'm cutting wood near, I figure cooking oil is a better and safer alternative than bar oil eh! I have not looked this up in quite a while bit I was told years ago, it takes 1 million parts of water to neutralize one part of motor oil to make it less carcinogenic. Looking forward to tomorrow's John Deere letter episode! Kudos to both of you! Take Care, Tom K.
Hey, Thomas, I'm from Wisconsin myself. In fact, I've a place in Eagle River. I've tried used motor oil and found it to be a complete mess. Bar oil for my saws, but no clue how much safer for the environment it is?
DON'T DO THIS! It's highly carcinogenic! This will kill YOU in the long run, forget the saw! The only guy I know who did this had terrible health problems and died of cancer. Dispose of that stuff safely. There are waste oil stoves, and it can be used, but not as chain oil. You are sprinkling it everywhere, getting it on your clothes and skin, and breathing tiny drops of it in.
I have a Poulan from the mid-1970's. It was a given to me by my grandfather. It has a manual oiler which is what I learned on as a kid in the 70's. I don't think that saw has ever had anything but used motor oil on the chain and bar.
I put all my old engine oil in a 55gal drum and reuse it. I do a TON of cutting being on 45 acres and plenty of equipment to supply the used oil. Your oil has way more life in it than the 3k, 5k, 7k you change it at. Does your car blow up exactly at 3001 miles? No, because there is plenty of life left in it. Hell, people can run synthetic for 10k miles with just a filter change. Second, the oil for the bar is used up as you use it, it's not recirculated into the system. It only has to last maybe 10 seconds before its flung off the chain as you cut. Third and the most important, COST. You spend $20 a gallon on basicly the same 30w oil(look it up). A new bar is ~$60. Your more likely to wear out the bar from not flipping it or having the chain to tight. I've ran 20+ gallons on the same bar. Only thing I can say negative is DIESEL oil. It works fine, but its black as night and stains clothes, boots and somewhat the white plastics on Stihl saws if you don't clean up afterwards and leave it on. Have a dedicated cutting outfit if you do, or take it as a badge that your out there working hard 👍. Hope it helps.
We used to use old McCulloch chainsaws that specified SAE 30 motor oil as Bar Oil I've tried several different bar oils and find them too thick here in Michigan when the temperature drops below 50° f. I've been cutting for over 50 years and I do like the tackiness of Bar Oil but the viscosity is too thick. Even the stihl bar and chain oil is too thick I bought a new Stihl bar& chain for my MS290, and burned out the bar in about 8 months of cutting. That was an expensive lesson, and I'm going back to mixing 50% used & filtered 10 W 30 synthetic motor oil. I simply filter it through the same filters I use for automotive paint. I've got an old Homelite 240 that I bought around 1985. Always choose my own mix of 50/50 bar and motor oil and it is only on its second bar. Like one guy said there is more grit in the bark then anything that comes out of your car engine. As long as you capture the oil in a clean drain pan, or filter it. My Sithl MS260 pro just destroys bars, using Stihl bar oil, even with the oiler turned to maximum. Personally. I like my older Homelite 360 that runs at 8500prm vs the new saws at high chain speeds.
@@happycamper6352 in protected parks where they don't want bar oil flung around it is restricted to vegetable oil. It all has to do with the environmental regulations in certain areas
@@mikemitchell9157 I guess I haven't cut there yet. I have cut residential, business, public sector (schools) local and state parks, state forests, but not yet anything federal/national. When you use that stuff, do you notice any differences?
@@happycamper6352 from what I'm told the only difference is its thinner so you have to turn your oil down or else you'll blow through it in a half tank of gas. But it gas something to do with it being more "environmentally friendly". It's just a way to appease certain activists. But yeah if you're in a disaster and aint got no bar oil and gotta clear the road it'll work just fine just remember to adjust the oiler and to adjust it back.
I would sooner use new oil than used as it has minute carbon/metal particulate in it and could also have fuel or coolant in it as well I agree with you there Steve/April Great vid as always I loved the hidden fee comment lol
My late father tried old used motor oil. He found out fast that his bar went down hill quick. There just wasn’t the same lubrication between the chain and bar.
Hi Steve and April, Waaaay back, while on the end of a crosscut saw with my Father on the other end, I had the audacity to ask "could we buy a chainsaw?" I might as well have asked if we could buy an aeroplane. But we did eventually buy a chainsaw, a McCulluck 380A. It was a common thing to use used engine oil for bar lube. There was no dedicated bar oil at that time and it was either that or new engine oil. My Dad, being as tight as a fish's rectum you know what we used. To put it in context, my first 3 years of school were spent writing on stone tablets. (I'm not kidding)
A mechanic mad because he got old used oil on his hands, come on, most of the snowflakes wear gloves. Now dog crap all over the machine thats a different story.
Back in the 70's when I was doing tree work full time, I tried using old motor oil in my Stihl chain saws. The oil pumps were metal, and it wasn't long before the pumps were worn out from the grit and fine metal in the oil.
I would like to have seen the question to be "is it OK to use regular motor oil for chain lube?" And the answer is a definite "yes" There is nothing about chain and bar oil that is special. Most times it's thicker but in cold weather that can cause problems. My old Homelite XL 14 chainsaw has a pressure driven oiling system and works best with a thin oil in cold weather. Clean, new 5W20 motor oil works perfectly. But I would never use old used oil drained from my car or mower!
No I've never used old motor oil that's been in an engine but I've always used 10W30 clean motor oil for all my chainsaws for 42 years never had an issue but I do agree that all motor oil does make a mess I have deal with the before repairing customers chainsaws so I understand Steve thank you for this video
I will agree with Steve for the most part. If you are not committed to working on your own equipment then you should use the proper oil. I myself have been using old oil in my machines for 10 years. I use it for bar and chain oil as well as mixing it in the fuel. I do because I'm a cheapskate and do my own repairs. I'll be the first to tell you that it's not for everyone. It does splatter more than regular chain oil. If your saw already leaks then the oil will stain more than regular chain oil. Motor oil has a stronger smell to it that sticks to your clothes more than both chain oil and 2cycle oil. It smokes more because there are different additives as well as the dirt that has been trapped in it. 4 to 6 ounces per gallon is what I use but that is on the rich side to some degree. I would much rather clean my muffler once a year than have to rebuild an engine. I have had zero engine failures mixing old oil with fuel for my engines. You will have to screen it to make sure there are no metal particles in it. I us an old speaker magnet in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket to make sure there isn't anything that the screen doesn't catch. I check the magnet every time I add to or draw from the bucket. I don't add oil that I already know has metal shavings in it when it's drained from the engine. I dispose of it. When oil sits over time dirt and particles fall to the bottom of the container. People who mix oil in diesel use this method without the magnet. So if people take the time to use oil as a fuel source for diesel applications I don't see how a saw or trimmer is more special than a pickup truck or tractor. It's not for everyone but it is an option that has worked for many.
As long as the oil isn’t too bad, and doesn’t have any alarming amount of metal in it, I always use it for my bar oil. The pressure and temperatures that motor oil has to perform at is FAR beyond that of bar oil. In an engine, the oil’s limits are reached but not for extremely light duty of bar oil. Most of the time the used motor oil I use doesn’t even get up to temperature and stays fairly viscus. It still gets warm enough to create a film but not hot enough to really liquify. It’s just my thoughts. 😅
How in the world would you know for a fact that there wasn't "an alarming of metal in it" unless you send it off to a lab for testing, which would in itself nullify the purpose of using it to "save money?"
@@whatsapoop you can typically see the metal when there is way too much. Also, a magnet. When oil comes from my oil changes, it’s typically just dirty from the detergents cleaning out carbon, but if I take oil from someone, I always run a magnet under it to see if there is enough metal to build up to be “alarming”. Letting the oil settle and only pouring off the top into a paper filter is slow but also inexpensive if bad oil is all I’ve got.
When I repair a saw the customer gets it back clean or at least clean enough that the cooling system is gonna work properly. If its trashed from the use of waste oil and it takes longer to clean then they get charged more. BTW, waste oil cleans up easier than baked on biodegradable oil, although its probably a less healthy choice.
It's best to only use oil from gasoline engines, the terrible black shit is usually from diesel oil. Also a couple shots of Lucas oil stabilizer added to any bar oil really helps reduce oil cast-off.
Regular motor oil doesn't have the lubricity for bar and chain oil.. That said I'm now using my used 15-50 synthetic from my motorcycle and it's the best by far I've ever used. Chain stretch is reduced to almost zero. This speaks loudly for it's quality
Any modern motor oil has to meet strict requirements. It's easy to find test data on most major brands. With bar and chain oil it doesn't have to meet any standards, just a bunch of fancy words on the label. I could be anything that pours from a jug. I would have no problem using engine oil in my saw, but would never put some random bar oil in my car.
what about different brands of bar oil and within those brands different 'grades'. I see Stihl has different priced bar oil options. Do that make any difference?
When I was a kid, mid to late 60s I seen a couple people do that. Dad would buy new 10 weight motor oil and use that. I have used new 10 w 30 if I need to use the saw and was out of bar oil. Jame Out.
I've done it before when i was in a pinch. I was out cutting firewood and ran out of bar and chain oil. It was an older saw but with my new echo saw i won't put used oil in it
any oil is better than no oil, that said the chain oil is supposed to resist being slung off of the chain better, does not require the detergents etc of motor oil,
15 years commercial cutting, speed cutting, many years ago now retired, saws husky 254 XP husky 266 Xp, never had a problem useing burst oil I.E for bar oil not once, sold husky 266 XP to a friend when I retired, kept my husky 254 Xp I now use it for odd jobs here and there, I Woulden't part with it for anything, still runs tight as the day I got it...
To each their own, but I have chosen to run used motor oil for my bar and chain oil. At $15 bucks a gallon for the cheap bar and chain oil, I can save way more than the cost of replacing the bar, chain, and/or pump... even if they wear out twice as fast. And as far as the environmental concerns go, I'm just not buying it. Bar and chain oil gets slung everywhere too, you just don't notice it as much because it's not black. Again, to each their own. Just sharing my reasoning.
I sometimes have used cooking oil (canola or sunflower) as chainsaw oil. It smells like a fish and chips shop, and I don't think it works great, but it will do in a pinch.
I have been using the Stihl environmental stuff and everything smells like french fries 🍟. It too is thinner and doesn't coat things as effectively either. I'm a bit disappointed considering one gallon cost me around $39 at my local saw shop.
@@steveniksid5874 nooooo! I've failed at lumberjacking and ruined the macho manly image!😂 I wanted to see how it compares to regular oil and was greatly underwhelmed. Regular saw oil is the best in my opinion after years of saw work. Tackier, and thicker is the best!
I doubt that the old Engine oil will be able to cling to the bar and chain at the high speeds that the chain spins….. chain bar oil is specifically designed to cling to the bat and chain at the speeds and the conditions that the bar and chain goes through while cutting through trees
When money was tight, yes, I admit I used it. But only on my Stihl 009 for cutting firewood. You can see where it started eating away the magnesium around the clutch housing ! So that was the end of that cost saving venture. The 009 is still running twenty three year's later but a bit long in the tooth. They don't make it anymore which is a shame. I would never recomend anyone use old oil but sometimes you do what you gotta do to get by.
@@rileyjohnston8393 Exactly. Used oil is acidic, diesel oil even more so. Ash is abrasive. I just buy oil in bulk now and screw in a manual pump dispenser. Makes life easier.
I've started using used 30 and 40w motor oil as bar oil. Last about half as long so needs topped off every gas fill up. Other than spraying some more I don't see any difference and I have gallons to use.
I've done it only when it would have been a 2 hour drive to get more bar oil or finish the job at hand. You do have some staining ( especially on the wood you cut) but I've not noticed a big amount of wear.
The main reason you don’t want to use auto motor oil it doesn’t have the Taki stuff that makes it stick to on the bottom side of the bar and chain it just flies off the tip as chain is making a U-turn coming back.
I cut down trees for a guy over a few summers in high school. He decided to save a couple bucks and use old oil out of his small diesel tractor as bar oil. It made a proper mess compared to the fresh clean proper oil. So to echo what you said, it works and is better than nothing, but the correct oil is cheap and definitely the far better choice.
LMAO! It's like taking your lawnmower into a shop with DOGS#!T all over the wheels....It PI$$#S mechanics right off! Made me almost spit out my swig of beer!!!! Made my day!
I lubed the bar and chain with used gear oil which is much cleaner than used motor oil. It seemed to work OK. However, when I ran out of that I switched to semi-synthetic B/C oil. When using the latter, I find that the chain needs to be tightened to compensate for wear much less frequently than when using gear oil. Is it because that oil is designed specifically for that purpose or because it is clean? I don't know the answer to that.
Click below 👇👇👇 for the links to the other questions...
⭐30 DAYS OF QUESTIONS⭐ - (Links will be updated as the videos are put out)
👉DAY 1 - Is A Stihl 4-Mix Engine A 2-Stroke Or A 4-Stroke? ➜ ruclips.net/video/QF__8hs0bo8/видео.html
👉DAY 2 - Are John Deere riding lawn mowers made by MTD? ➜ ruclips.net/video/iCJsWsd6SLo/видео.html
👉DAY 3 - How Do I Break In A New Chainsaw? ➜ ruclips.net/video/NE4Q1Y8v2U4/видео.html
👉DAY 4 - Does Soaking WeedEater Line In Water Actually Help? ➜ ruclips.net/video/84hFN_jveMc/видео.html
👉DAY 5 - Why Does My Briggs Lawn Mower Say Never Change The Oil? ➜ ruclips.net/video/IVGmetgOcgo/видео.html
👉DAY 6 - Can I Use Outboard Mix Oil In My Chain Saw? ➜ ruclips.net/video/AlmegbfUJpU/видео.html
👉DAY 7 - What Is Your Favorite Chain Saw? ➜ ruclips.net/video/wMJeH0jCcHM/видео.html
👉DAY 8 - Why Does My Grass Chute Keep Plugging Up? ➜ ruclips.net/video/WtbhiNy42IU/видео.html
👉DAY 9 - What Does The Purge Bulb Actually Do? ➜ ruclips.net/video/sbDPU73fQQY/видео.html
👉DAY 10 - What Is Your Favorite Penetrating Oil? ➜ ruclips.net/video/jrzNv_Db0ZA/видео.html
👉DAY 11 - How Do I UnFlood My Chainsaw Or Weed Eater? ➜ ruclips.net/video/n0UnfoL5qWk/видео.html
👉DAY 12 - What Is The Best 2-Stroke Gas / Oil Mix Ratio? ➜ ruclips.net/video/-bsbKqZbyrw/видео.html
👉DAY 13 - Why Does My Leaf Blower Bog Out When I Pull The Trigger? ➜ ruclips.net/video/O4fMjSg7Z_U/видео.html
👉DAY 14 - What Does WARRANTY Actually Mean? ➜ ruclips.net/video/D-8054Q6vx0/видео.html
👉DAY 15 - Can I Remove ETHANOL From My Gas? ➜ ruclips.net/video/qZo4ItYiMCQ/видео.html
👉DAY 16 - Why Is My Pressure Washer So Hard To Pull Start? ➜ ruclips.net/video/Apipsdmf8qs/видео.html
👉DAY 17 - Why Does My Chain Saw Leak Oil? ➜ ruclips.net/video/3P5ITSFWUZg/видео.html
👉DAY 19 - Should I Buy My John Deere Lawn Mower From Home Depot Or My Dealer? ➜ ruclips.net/video/IZRjSYwYhyc/видео.html
👉DAY 20 - Do Battery Powered Chain Saws Work Good? ➜ ruclips.net/video/Zb8XNGfHsQU/видео.html
👉DAY 21 - Honda Is Stopping Lawn Mower Production? FAKE NEWS!! ➜ ruclips.net/video/y4TSwWHFb-o/видео.html
👉DAY 22 - Will cleaning the rust off my flywheel help with spark? ➜ ruclips.net/video/w8-exMgUhuc/видео.html
👉DAY 23 - NO SPARK! How Do I Know If My Coil / Ignition Module Is Faulty? ➜ ruclips.net/video/HBFz_N0SxuY/видео.html
👉DAY 24 - Will I DESTROY My Pressure Washer By Doing THIS? ➜ ruclips.net/video/22OlLNAZKa8/видео.html
👉DAY 25 - How Do I Fix An On/Off Kill Switch? ➜ ruclips.net/video/IyaUpGh19CI/видео.html
👉DAY 26 - Why doesn’t my lawnmower have an oil drain plug on it? ➜ ruclips.net/video/BXJbWWhMk0s/видео.html
👉DAY 27 - Why Is There Black Oil Coming Out Of My Muffler? ➜ ruclips.net/video/SNHdUh5tRoA/видео.html
👉DAY 28 - Can I Put A LONGER Bar On My Chain Saw? ➜ ruclips.net/video/OrRux_GSQQQ/видео.html
👉DAY 29 - Why Does My Engine STOP Running After A Few Minutes? ➜ ruclips.net/video/m5LEwNi-geM/видео.html
👉DAY 30 - Can I Make A Lawn Mower Run On Propane? ➜ ruclips.net/video/UkYCa1WhFGs/видео.html
In alaska we all exclusively use used motor oil in our saws, we filter it through a coffee filter first and hit it with a magnet to remove metal flakes, the standard bar oil is waaay to thick a 20 below zero to even work, but 5w30 works just fine, been doing it for years with absolutely zero issues. Plus, why pay for stihls overpriced oil?! I cut 60 plus cords of wood a year, and have never had a single problem doing this.
I do the same, I purchased a small block Chevy oil pump converted so I can use a filter on it. I filter it through a k&n oil filter and store it in jugs to use .
You can't mechanically filter out all the metal particulates with a coffee filter. You're getting away with it because of limited use. We used to see commercial pro saw oilers fail regularly using used motor oil. You're stepping over dollars to pick up pennies. Paying for the correct type/weight bar oil isn't going to bankrupt/cripple you by cutting 60+ cords a yr. Sure, you'll always have brethren that do the same thing.....doesn't make it correct....
@TheReal1953 try using stihl oil in 30 below zero, it will burn up your bar in 10 minutes because it's too thick to flow. That's why we use 0w30
@@jasonburguess We used to thin bar oil when it was that cold with diesel. You still retain some of the lubricity 'stickiness' of true bar oil that way. You have ZERO stickiness with waste oil... it's just slung off. Cold temps may be saving you some from normal temp wear.
I thin my bco. With 10 to 20% atf. Works really good in winter here in Mt.
I used the used engine oil for years on my bar. It seemed to work fairly well.
Same here. Mine is electric chainsaw, it is 20 years old.
I never did this but I had a friend that never used anything but old motor oil for chain lube all his life. He never had a problem and he cut a lot of wood.
Dad's been cutting wood for a living for just over 30 years and has always used motor oil no problems at all. A filter first is a good idea.
I tried using straight used synthetic oil for bar oil. I had it in jugs for about 6 months and left it to settle. Then pour it into another jug but not the last part. There was always different stuff in the bottom part. When I used it I found that the chain would only need to be tightened half as much as it did with bar oil. I used it for year's and cut a lot of firewood as that was our source of heat. Put bar oil in sometimes and found I was back tightening the chain more often. Our wood stove was used 24 hours a day for about 6 months of the year.
Dale in Canada 🇨🇦
Good quality bar oil is way more sticky than used or new motor oil for a reason. It clings better to the bar and chain for better lubrication. Only time I have heard of guys using motor oil (Professionals, not home gamers) is when it gets really cold out. Motor oil will thin the bar oil a little to help it flow at cold temps.
There is no difference in the durability of chainsaw components between special chainsaw oil and used car oil in good condition, none. The only reason to use specialized oil is environment and health, engine oil is very toxic, specially if its used. Pros only use specialized oil when they are under Government and company regular inspections that demand it but when they are not most will just go for the used engine oil.
@@Wen6543 Bar and Chain oil is much more sticky than engine oil. That is why it is used.
@@corey6393 Other than having to refill the oil deposit faster, ecology and dirtiness it makes practically no difference in the performance of the chainsaw and the durability of its componentes.
The bar wears out faster. The sprocket on the tip gets loose.
And if you gun the throttle one time not cutting you’re wearing a stripe of dirty oil.
Bar & chain oil is cheaper.
@@davehaggerty3405 No its not, even if the bar wears out faster is not noticeable, by the time you need a new 80 or something dollars bar (depending on the size and brand, can be a lot cheaper) you have saved hundreds of dollars in bar oil. Heck, you can even use kitchen oil without problems.
I don´t advice anything, i´m just saying a reality. Everybody can do as they like.
Just because you can does not mean you should.
Thanks for the video Steve and April.
You beat me to it!
Crikey, I thought she was a giant. (sucking up doesn't hurt)
Yeah yeah well I've been doing it for more than 20 years and have never had a problem
@@heavenbound1536 Congratulations.
@@justanotherviewer52 yeah well doing almost 400 CORDS of firewood a year and residential tree removal and land clearing nothing wears out a chain faster than nails or working on a fence line and as far as wearing out bars ... usually that comes from my guys running the saws in the dirt..... but if you change your oil after 2 or 3 thousand miles there usually ain't a whole lot of anything that will wear out the bar before you hit barbwire or concrete epoxy a home owner pours into a hole in the tree
Thumbs-up Steve... i have a couple old saws that i use old motor oil that has not been in and engine but I'd never use old used motor oil... i remember my Dad In Law using it once for only a few minutes and he said "that ain't gonna work " and that was the last time the thought of using it crossed his and my mind
Never done it myself but I have wondered if you could do this. Thank you for answering my question AND explaining why you shouldn't, keep up the awesome work! 👏
I have filtered used Full synthetic oil that is really clean and used it as bar oil but usually I use bar oil and shake the bottle and if it sloshes like water it is too thin. I shake all the brands and buy the bottle that is the quietest which means it is thicker and will not fling off the chain as easy.
I cut over 70 cords of wood a year. I have several Stihl saws and use only clean used motor oil out of gasoline engines as diesel engine oil is too thick and nasty. Here is the thing. My engine I took it out of is a lot more delicate than a cutting chain and my engine was running fine on it. Also I turn my oil up all the way so it uses all it can and can oil good. I fill my oil full and my fuel 3/4 and that way I run out of fuel first. A dry chain is bad. Also about grit. There is so much dirt and sand in the bark of trees the little amount of abrasives in the oil is insignificant.
I have to admit, there was a year about 25 years ago that I was cutting a lot of firewood.and used it
. It was nasty and smelly and I wouldn't want to do it again...but it did the job. I also was my own mechanic,so I could yell at myself.
We need to give April a box to stand on.
She's sitting.
I was just gonna say that. Kinda obvious.
She is standing on a power blower now .
Nah she's just a cute little luv bug just the way she is! I wonder if he ever calls her carrots?
I have used used synthetic motor oil in my chainsaw for decades. Make sure to screen the grit out first.
I use cooking oil
@@johncuervo3019 I did that for a while to but it did eventually fuck up the oilers in both my saws.
I use a 50/50 mix of used car oil and thick bar oil to save a few bucks and use up my used oil.
If you drain the oil into a clean container, there's no grit in it. If it has grit in it coming out of a running motor, the motor is about to blow up.
I don't know about you but when the engine oil comes out of my vehicles it is in very good condition. I started using it sixty years ago in the days when all saws had manual oilers even with automatic ones. Because I used much more of the free stuff than the expensive version (mine was never 'black' by the way!) I was almost washing away the contaminants. The bit of abrasiveness that might have been present was as nothing compared to the salt water , sand and gravel that we always had to cut. Never had a problem and my bars and chains lasted as long as anyone's. Longer than most as mine always had plenty of oil on the chain. Though few were and are rich enough to use brand name new bar oil. Wasn't even offered in those days. Wasn't until many years later that the marketing wanks started putting it on the shelf. My saws never 'splattered either'. I cleaned my saws in any case and they rarely ever went to a commercial shop. If they had I can guarantee you that the mechanic wouldn't have noticed. His hands were in the solvent tank and Brake Clean so much that that would be the least of his complaints even if it were a problem. Even if you do the '100K' oil changes your oil will be fine if you run it through a coffee filter and just let it sit. The solids drop out of solution and go to the bottom of the jug. Any excessive oil went into the wood and was burned in the stove as a vapor.
I use engine drain oil to oil the wheel bushings on all wheels, deck wheels and steering components on my riding lawnmowers. Years ago, I didn't when I was buying oil for less than 50 cents a quart.
Thank you Steve for shooting my great idea down. I have just changed oil in my 6.0 powerstroke and kubota m6800 tractor. Therefore I'm in possession of a little less than 7 gallons of used oil. I'm in the woods sawing right now and NOT in possession of any saw chain oil. So I thought kill 3 birds with one stone. Save a trip to the store. Get rid of something I'd have to haul to the recycle center and 3.... save some money. Let me say I disagree with one statement you made. Bar oil ain't cheap. To me cheap would be 5 dollars a gallon. I'm paying 15 at ace is the place. At 6 gallons of used oil that's $90 bucks. I'm gonna take your advise anyway. Thanks. Your videos are the best. Technical detail and
Super entertaining .
Filtered, it might work, but you are right. It would likely make a slippery mess of the saw. I wouldn't do anything to make it easier to drop my running chainsaw on my foot
Well put Steve adding to that the microscopic metal shavings in the used motor oil will wear the chain,bar grooves and bar nose sprocket out prematurely i have heard of people using pure vegetable oil in cold climates STIHL and ECHO make a biodegradable bar and chain oil based on vegetable oil just with other ingredients to make it stick to the bar and chain better.
I had thoughts of adding stp to new engine oil to make my one bar oil . When my dad was buying the chainsaws I ran whatever I could find he made sure I had bar oil. Now that I bought my saws and maintain them . I look at it all different.
Don’t run when chain is dull, use good stuff for the saw . Don’t leave out in the rain .
Now that bar oil is 20-25 bucks a gallon in CA. It sure makes me think can I make my own cheaper ?
I saw bar oil for 14 bucks a gallon . I bought a gallon thinking I saved 10 bucks or so.
I change my own engine oil .
It’s a dirty oil . I just can’t do it to a saw I spent 1200 bucks on .
I can’t do it to a saw I borrowed from someone either .
I have a friend that does it . I will see how that goes for him .
Don’t be cheap use the right oil! Great tips today SteveO! Enjoying your questions. Cheers 🍻 Steve and April Out
Once again, awsome video. Thanks Steve. I had issues with water separating out of it as well.
Used, contaminated and degraded oil. Great idea!
Thanks Steve, good to know.
Love these answer sessions!
All my saws have had used motor oil for the bar from brand new. 3 saws in the last 40 years and have never bought bar oil. I do turn the pump volume up a bit higher though. Every 10 to 13 years my saws are pretty much worn out, the bar as well.
Used oil does not wear out the saw faster. Unless it’s really dirty then the oiler migh plug up.
good advice as always ! I agree it’s probably not the best option but i have used cooking oil mixed with tranny fluid, motor oil or whatever else i have lying around for my whole life and it hasn’t failed me yet. 🍻
Yes. I do. I settle it for 90+ days. Use the bottom portion as wood stove fuel, a little at a time. 😊
My neighbour did that with his old saw back in the 70s made a mess everywhere I always used bar oil!
You're a class act.
I used wast oil from my lawnmower in my first Stihl chainsaw and I think it lead to its demise. I basically ate a hole through the oil compartment perhaps due to the contaminants in it. I'm considering using brand new hydraulic oil that I run on my Kubota transmission, but was looking for advice beforehand which brought me here!
Hello from Northern Wisconsin. I used to use old motor oil in a pinch but when I'm drinking water out of a shallow well that I'm cutting wood near, I figure cooking oil is a better and safer alternative than bar oil eh! I have not looked this up in quite a while bit I was told years ago, it takes 1 million parts of water to neutralize one part of motor oil to make it less carcinogenic. Looking forward to tomorrow's John Deere letter episode! Kudos to both of you!
Take Care,
Tom K.
Hey, Thomas, I'm from Wisconsin myself. In fact, I've a place in Eagle River. I've tried used motor oil and found it to be a complete mess. Bar oil for my saws, but no clue how much safer for the environment it is?
Ive done that when i was out of bar oil once or twice in a pinch when i was younger and poorer. But not recommended unless its a last resort.
Used crankcase lubricants..Not really. But Brylcreem... YES... A little Dab'll do ya!😀
I've been doing this for 25 years. It works fine. Just strain it first. I've never wore out a oil pump or bar.
DON'T DO THIS!
It's highly carcinogenic! This will kill YOU in the long run, forget the saw! The only guy I know who did this had terrible health problems and died of cancer. Dispose of that stuff safely. There are waste oil stoves, and it can be used, but not as chain oil. You are sprinkling it everywhere, getting it on your clothes and skin, and breathing tiny drops of it in.
So have I...works great. I run mine through a paint filter no problems. My mechanic couldn't care less fo he is me lol.
Same here
I have a Poulan from the mid-1970's. It was a given to me by my grandfather. It has a manual oiler which is what I learned on as a kid in the 70's. I don't think that saw has ever had anything but used motor oil on the chain and bar.
I put all my old engine oil in a 55gal drum and reuse it. I do a TON of cutting being on 45 acres and plenty of equipment to supply the used oil.
Your oil has way more life in it than the 3k, 5k, 7k you change it at. Does your car blow up exactly at 3001 miles? No, because there is plenty of life left in it. Hell, people can run synthetic for 10k miles with just a filter change.
Second, the oil for the bar is used up as you use it, it's not recirculated into the system. It only has to last maybe 10 seconds before its flung off the chain as you cut.
Third and the most important, COST. You spend $20 a gallon on basicly the same 30w oil(look it up). A new bar is ~$60. Your more likely to wear out the bar from not flipping it or having the chain to tight. I've ran 20+ gallons on the same bar.
Only thing I can say negative is DIESEL oil. It works fine, but its black as night and stains clothes, boots and somewhat the white plastics on Stihl saws if you don't clean up afterwards and leave it on. Have a dedicated cutting outfit if you do, or take it as a badge that your out there working hard 👍.
Hope it helps.
I've been mixing filtered used oil with chain oil 50/50 for years now and it works great.
My filtered/used 15-50 synthetic out of my motorcycle is the best chainsaw chain oil I've ever used. Try it.
We used to use old McCulloch chainsaws that specified SAE 30 motor oil as Bar Oil I've tried several different bar oils and find them too thick here in Michigan when the temperature drops below 50° f. I've been cutting for over 50 years and I do like the tackiness of Bar Oil but the viscosity is too thick. Even the stihl bar and chain oil is too thick I bought a new Stihl bar& chain for my MS290, and burned out the bar in about 8 months of cutting. That was an expensive lesson, and I'm going back to mixing 50% used & filtered 10 W 30 synthetic motor oil. I simply filter it through the same filters I use for automotive paint. I've got an old Homelite 240 that I bought around 1985. Always choose my own mix of 50/50 bar and motor oil and it is only on its second bar. Like one guy said there is more grit in the bark then anything that comes out of your car engine. As long as you capture the oil in a clean drain pan, or filter it. My Sithl MS260 pro just destroys bars, using Stihl bar oil, even with the oiler turned to maximum.
Personally. I like my older Homelite 360 that runs at 8500prm vs the new saws at high chain speeds.
I'm a 40-year mechanic and use my used oil all the time, but i change my oil every 5000 km,s not one problem cheers.
I grew up with my Grandfather and he would always use transmission fluid as bar oil and I did as well for half my life with no problems
I have enough Oregon brand bar oil to last me at least ten years! LOL Thanks, April and Steve!
How much you can store bar oil? Because is getting and getting expensive, so I want to buy lots of gallons .
@@marioep18 It doesn't go bad, and I buy a gallon or two almost every time I go shopping at Princess Auto.
@@kbjerke Thanks for the info, I'm gonna buy a lot then. Have a good day!!!
@@marioep18 You too! 👍
If you run out in a pinch vegetable oil. Parks services is required to use it for environmental reasons
I've never had a park tell us to do that.
@@happycamper6352 in protected parks where they don't want bar oil flung around it is restricted to vegetable oil. It all has to do with the environmental regulations in certain areas
@@happycamper6352 and my bad I might have said the wrong service. It's the national forestry service.
@@mikemitchell9157 I guess I haven't cut there yet. I have cut residential, business, public sector (schools) local and state parks, state forests, but not yet anything federal/national. When you use that stuff, do you notice any differences?
@@happycamper6352 from what I'm told the only difference is its thinner so you have to turn your oil down or else you'll blow through it in a half tank of gas. But it gas something to do with it being more "environmentally friendly". It's just a way to appease certain activists. But yeah if you're in a disaster and aint got no bar oil and gotta clear the road it'll work just fine just remember to adjust the oiler and to adjust it back.
I would sooner use new oil than used as it has minute carbon/metal particulate in it and could also have fuel or coolant in it as well I agree with you there Steve/April Great vid as always I loved the hidden fee comment lol
Local guy here calls that extra a friendship fee
But you run that in your car?
@@wollywolly2734 I heard what is good for the car is good for the chainsaw.....! hehe
April and Steve… 👍
My late father tried old used motor oil. He found out fast that his bar went down hill quick. There just wasn’t the same lubrication between the chain and bar.
Yep, it wears everything down fast.
Most of the oil will fling off the end and never make it to the bottom of the bar where it is needed.
@@tomrogers9467 the drive links wick the oil from the channel of the bar so how is it going to sling it off?
Canola oil in a pinch. I usually have some that’s gone rancid in the pantry anyways. Cheers Steve and April 🥂🍻
Hey Lawnmower Lady, We miss your videos. I hope all is well. Sorry Steve.
@@daverivas1267 Thx! I've got a few out there. Slow winter (no snowblowers) and home repairs.
I know a professional tree crew near me that does this on all their saws. Says they never have any issues. I was really surprised to hear that.
They'll have an issue if someone puts a call in to the EPA.
@@StikkyWood not like it would hurt anything... people are really that sensitive huh
Death penalty in California;)
@@StikkyWood lmao tru
@@StikkyWood Its bar oil not engine oil nobody in their right mind would use old engine oil mix cheers.
very informational, can I use dirty 4 stroke oil as metal cutting lubricant?
Hi Steve and April, Waaaay back, while on the end of a crosscut saw with my Father on the other end, I had the audacity to ask "could we buy a chainsaw?" I might as well have asked if we could buy an aeroplane. But we did eventually buy a chainsaw, a McCulluck 380A. It was a common thing to use used engine oil for bar lube. There was no dedicated bar oil at that time and it was either that or new engine oil. My Dad, being as tight as a fish's rectum you know what we used. To put it in context, my first 3 years of school were spent writing on stone tablets. (I'm not kidding)
Very interesting comment. I hope you have some grandchildren that you have passed some of your knowledge to.
A mechanic mad because he got old used oil on his hands, come on, most of the snowflakes wear gloves. Now dog crap all over the machine thats a different story.
HAPPY NEW YEAR Steve ! Canola oil--love the perfume of french fries while cutting. It's cheap. Clean. BUTT- it's thin and goes faster than oil oil.
Back in the 70's when I was doing tree work full time, I tried using old motor oil in my Stihl chain saws. The oil pumps were metal, and it wasn't long before the pumps were worn out from the grit and fine metal in the oil.
I would like to have seen the question to be "is it OK to use regular motor oil for chain lube?" And the answer is a definite "yes" There is nothing about chain and bar oil that is special. Most times it's thicker but in cold weather that can cause problems. My old Homelite XL 14 chainsaw has a pressure driven oiling system and works best with a thin oil in cold weather. Clean, new 5W20 motor oil works perfectly. But I would never use old used oil drained from my car or mower!
Let it settle and maybe run through filter material? I have always used Stihl oils and seems to be working, same saw 30+yrs.
No I've never used old motor oil that's been in an engine but I've always used 10W30 clean motor oil for all my chainsaws for 42 years never had an issue but I do agree that all motor oil does make a mess I have deal with the before repairing customers chainsaws so I understand Steve thank you for this video
Is that more economical, Matthew?
Well for me it is more economical because the majority of my engine take 10w 30 so I always have it on hand
I will agree with Steve for the most part. If you are not committed to working on your own equipment then you should use the proper oil. I myself have been using old oil in my machines for 10 years. I use it for bar and chain oil as well as mixing it in the fuel. I do because I'm a cheapskate and do my own repairs. I'll be the first to tell you that it's not for everyone. It does splatter more than regular chain oil. If your saw already leaks then the oil will stain more than regular chain oil. Motor oil has a stronger smell to it that sticks to your clothes more than both chain oil and 2cycle oil. It smokes more because there are different additives as well as the dirt that has been trapped in it. 4 to 6 ounces per gallon is what I use but that is on the rich side to some degree. I would much rather clean my muffler once a year than have to rebuild an engine. I have had zero engine failures mixing old oil with fuel for my engines. You will have to screen it to make sure there are no metal particles in it. I us an old speaker magnet in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket to make sure there isn't anything that the screen doesn't catch. I check the magnet every time I add to or draw from the bucket. I don't add oil that I already know has metal shavings in it when it's drained from the engine. I dispose of it. When oil sits over time dirt and particles fall to the bottom of the container. People who mix oil in diesel use this method without the magnet. So if people take the time to use oil as a fuel source for diesel applications I don't see how a saw or trimmer is more special than a pickup truck or tractor. It's not for everyone but it is an option that has worked for many.
As long as the oil isn’t too bad, and doesn’t have any alarming amount of metal in it, I always use it for my bar oil. The pressure and temperatures that motor oil has to perform at is FAR beyond that of bar oil. In an engine, the oil’s limits are reached but not for extremely light duty of bar oil. Most of the time the used motor oil I use doesn’t even get up to temperature and stays fairly viscus. It still gets warm enough to create a film but not hot enough to really liquify.
It’s just my thoughts. 😅
How in the world would you know for a fact that there wasn't "an alarming of metal in it" unless you send it off to a lab for testing, which would in itself nullify the purpose of using it to "save money?"
@@whatsapoop you can typically see the metal when there is way too much. Also, a magnet. When oil comes from my oil changes, it’s typically just dirty from the detergents cleaning out carbon, but if I take oil from someone, I always run a magnet under it to see if there is enough metal to build up to be “alarming”. Letting the oil settle and only pouring off the top into a paper filter is slow but also inexpensive if bad oil is all I’ve got.
When I repair a saw the customer gets it back clean or at least clean enough that the cooling system is gonna work properly. If its trashed from the use of waste oil and it takes longer to clean then they get charged more. BTW, waste oil cleans up easier than baked on biodegradable oil, although its probably a less healthy choice.
That's BS because almost all of the cleanup is wood chips and oil that will be there no matter what kind of oil was used.
@@maxwelltodd7757 Its been my experience that the thinner waste oil spreads further and makes a bigger mess over more of the saw.
Used 90 weight gear oil has served me well for what little cutting I do for years.
Steve, I think you shocked and stunned April with the dog poop comment!
Great advice
Excellent
It's best to only use oil from gasoline engines, the terrible black shit is usually from diesel oil. Also a couple shots of Lucas oil stabilizer added to any bar oil really helps reduce oil cast-off.
Regular motor oil doesn't have the lubricity for bar and chain oil..
That said I'm now using my used 15-50 synthetic from my motorcycle and it's the best by far I've ever used. Chain stretch is reduced to almost zero. This speaks loudly for it's quality
Any modern motor oil has to meet strict requirements. It's easy to find test data on most major brands.
With bar and chain oil it doesn't have to meet any standards, just a bunch of fancy words on the label. I could be anything that pours from a jug.
I would have no problem using engine oil in my saw, but would never put some random bar oil in my car.
Good answer.
what about different brands of bar oil and within those brands different 'grades'. I see Stihl has different priced bar oil options. Do that make any difference?
I've had some bar oil that seems too "sticky" to flow properly. The remedy was used motor oil.
When I was a kid, mid to late 60s I seen a couple people do that. Dad would buy new 10 weight motor oil and use that. I have used new 10 w 30 if I need to use the saw and was out of bar oil. Jame Out.
“i learned so much from you're Amazing video's Big Thanks Steve and April
Great to hear!
You guys are hilarious! Always love your videos thanks!
Wheels full of whaaaaaa!!!.Thanks for the stream.
Maybe in a pinch but definitely not as a regular practice. JMO.🤷♂️
Can you use left over hydraulic oil??
Thanks for that, of course agree with you - you can use it but you definitely shouldn't.
I've done it before when i was in a pinch. I was out cutting firewood and ran out of bar and chain oil. It was an older saw but with my new echo saw i won't put used oil in it
i do this... I keep old engine oil and gearbox oil in a barrel, and use it for my bar oil.. I just strain it first..
any oil is better than no oil, that said the chain oil is supposed to resist being slung off of the chain better, does not require the detergents etc of motor oil,
Always have, never been a problem.
Mix 50 50 with old gear oil. Works awesome and real cheap.
15 years commercial cutting, speed cutting, many years ago now retired, saws husky 254 XP husky 266 Xp, never had a problem useing burst oil I.E for bar oil not once, sold husky 266 XP to a friend when I retired, kept my husky 254 Xp I now use it for odd jobs here and there, I Woulden't part with it for anything, still runs tight as the day I got it...
I use transmission fluid ATF, is that bad?
Back in the 70's i had a friend that put used motor oil in his gas mix. And he never had a problem with his saw. 😕
To each their own, but I have chosen to run used motor oil for my bar and chain oil. At $15 bucks a gallon for the cheap bar and chain oil, I can save way more than the cost of replacing the bar, chain, and/or pump... even if they wear out twice as fast.
And as far as the environmental concerns go, I'm just not buying it. Bar and chain oil gets slung everywhere too, you just don't notice it as much because it's not black.
Again, to each their own. Just sharing my reasoning.
And in such little quantity it will do nothing and motor oil is better for the environment because you are re using it
Is 2 stroke oil safe to use as bar and chain oil?
I sometimes have used cooking oil (canola or sunflower) as chainsaw oil. It smells like a fish and chips shop, and I don't think it works great, but it will do in a pinch.
I have been using the Stihl environmental stuff and everything smells like french fries 🍟. It too is thinner and doesn't coat things as effectively either. I'm a bit disappointed considering one gallon cost me around $39 at my local saw shop.
@@patricknesbit2334
A "tree hugger" with a chainsaw? 🤔
😉
@@steveniksid5874 nooooo! I've failed at lumberjacking and ruined the macho manly image!😂 I wanted to see how it compares to regular oil and was greatly underwhelmed. Regular saw oil is the best in my opinion after years of saw work. Tackier, and thicker is the best!
I've used canola new and used. Very good chain lubricant until it gels below freezing. Plus it'll dry like varnish past 30 days not in use
I doubt that the old Engine oil will be able to cling to the bar and chain at the high speeds that the chain spins….. chain bar oil is specifically designed to cling to the bat and chain at the speeds and the conditions that the bar and chain goes through while cutting through trees
I'm a bit behind on watching the videos. But I'm glad to see my previous comment worked haha, nice to see toasting with the beers!!!!
When money was tight, yes, I admit I used it. But only on my Stihl 009 for cutting firewood. You can see where it started eating away the magnesium around the clutch housing ! So that was the end of that cost saving venture.
The 009 is still running twenty three year's later but a bit long in the tooth. They don't make it anymore which is a shame.
I would never recomend anyone use old oil but sometimes you do what you gotta do to get by.
Ya I have seen old 266s with a ton of pitting on the oil pumps from the acidic old motor oil eating them away
@@rileyjohnston8393
Exactly. Used oil is acidic, diesel oil even more so. Ash is abrasive.
I just buy oil in bulk now and screw in a manual pump dispenser. Makes life easier.
I've started using used 30 and 40w motor oil as bar oil. Last about half as long so needs topped off every gas fill up. Other than spraying some more I don't see any difference and I have gallons to use.
Better than nothing. Especially for winter duty.
I use used ATF as long as it isn't burnt.
I've done it only when it would have been a 2 hour drive to get more bar oil or finish the job at hand. You do have some staining ( especially on the wood you cut) but I've not noticed a big amount of wear.
My father-in-law used used motor oil in all his mowers as well as for bar oil.
Thank you for the video
Using old motor oil is like having a surgeon irrigating an open wound with puss from a blister, it may not infect you, but why chance it?
The main reason you don’t want to use auto motor oil it doesn’t have the Taki stuff that makes it stick to on the bottom side of the bar and chain it just flies off the tip as chain is making a U-turn coming back.
I cut down trees for a guy over a few summers in high school. He decided to save a couple bucks and use old oil out of his small diesel tractor as bar oil. It made a proper mess compared to the fresh clean proper oil. So to echo what you said, it works and is better than nothing, but the correct oil is cheap and definitely the far better choice.
That one had me rolling Steve!
I have done it myself but more as an emergency solution
LMAO! It's like taking your lawnmower into a shop with DOGS#!T all over the wheels....It PI$$#S mechanics right off! Made me almost spit out my swig of beer!!!! Made my day!
I lubed the bar and chain with used gear oil which is much cleaner than used motor oil. It seemed to work OK. However, when I ran out of that I switched to semi-synthetic B/C oil. When using the latter, I find that the chain needs to be tightened to compensate for wear much less frequently than when using gear oil. Is it because that oil is designed specifically for that purpose or because it is clean? I don't know the answer to that.