Ditto here. While stationed in NAVSTA GTMO, I fixed my cars muffler by driving over the edge of a drainage ditch, crawled in and used a Pepsi can and coat hanger with JB Weld to fix my muffler. 😂 MacGyver would be proud of us!
Steve, after all those years at Canadian Woodworker I'm glad you've branched out to BLR and wish you the best. Thank you for sharing the bounty of ingenuity. We are not worthy.
I have an 06 Toyota Tacoma. I love it when I can get an OEM Exhaust system for under $100. Due to how often people want after market exhaust and suspension when they buy thes trucks new😂.
Good Morning! Thanks for your note and kind words. I've had good results with this kind of repair lasting many years. Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and videos of interest to hands-on, how-to people. I've got a give-away on the go now for a 6500 watt tri-fuel generator. Bye for now and thanks for watching! Steve
Thanks for posting. I'm 72 with bad knees to be crawling up underneath a car maybe just to change the oil at most, lol. But one thing's for sure, I've got this bookmarked just in case some one can use the video's info and the comments. Have a safe one.
Sanderson Headers in California have a precision weld bead around the port flanges. A tube of Permatex Red High Temp is included with them. The instructions say to apply a bead around the ports on the header flanges. Allow to skin over, then install the headers on the cylinder heads. Then wait until the silicone fully cures before starting the engine. After a short warm up then check the torque on the header bolts. You have made a wise choice for the repair.
So you welded a homemade flange when you could’ve just welded a regular flange and you used high temp rtv? I give you props you went all out when you already have the tools to do it correctly is amazing
They sell inexpensive flange kits, in all sizes. Both donuts and flanges. Both weld and no weld kits. These flanges are designed for movement. This reminds me of the old metal tape and JB weld repairs.
Do you think for those who don't have access to a welder they could use the high temp silicone on the long seems? If applied liberally to the outer half and have it squish out over inner half, maybe even with a third clamp in the middle.
Great video tip. Thanks. Had a problem @ Cdn Tire. Mine doesn’t do welding! Google, “car exhaust pipe flexible connector”. A flexible metal basket woven connector is what I used. PS. Pls use an N95 dust mask when cutting. Lungs are like vacuum cleaner bags, but you cannot replace them...
John S. Richards "Lungs are like vacuum cleaner bags, but you cannot replace them.." For sure. It really hit home for me from a Navy Seal(You Tube, Buds class 234) who had both of his replaced because of job related hazards. He was given 8 years after the operation, has since run a half marathon and is 10 years plus and doing well. Oo-rah!
Note to self: - Before doing any electric welding to vehicle, disconnect negative cable from battery. Why? Avoids accidently frying onboard electronics.
Good video. I have done this with soup and tomato paste cans without welding. Using cans you only need to make one cut up the side of the can. I also used a soda can to fix a cracked sway bar bracket on my son's Camry. Putting the can between the bushing and the bracket gave enough strength to the bracket to prevent the bracket from coming apart. Happy Motoring.
Not a bad idea but what also works well is buy yourself a stainless steel band clamp and if you want you can cut a small piece of pipe to fill in the space that you cut out and put the band clamp over the whole mess with exhaust sealer or high heat silicone also sometimes piece of aluminum siding flashing underneath the band clamp makes it more of a leak-proof seal I've done it plenty of times but I still like your idea pretty good
Could you have sliced the repair piece only once....instead of on opposite sides 180 degrees apart? It seems you could still use the "overlap" method...but then you would only need one welded-seam..
Couldn't you silicone the sides of the pipe halves instead of welding? It looks like enough of an overlap in the halves to allow the silicone to seal properly.
This seems to be a genius muffler hack! Esp if you know someone who’s a welder… which I do!! Looks like a fun weekend to try this out! Thanks for sharing!
Hello and thanks for watching! I have used band clamps in the past, but they don't last long enough. In this application I'd be especially uneasy about a band clamp because if it ever fell off, the noise would be deafening so close to the engine. Thanks again! Steve
A little late but for anyone else, you can do the same fix he does by using a cheap pipe connector and clamp only (with the high heat silicone ofc), no welding necessary.
They sell a "butt joint exhaust band" for us lazy guys. This replaces your pipe you cut as well as the clamps into one unit. They do sell it in different sizes for the various diameter exhaust pipes. I'm going to try one of those along with the high temp silicone, I don't have the capability to weld anything but I'm hoping my repair works.
Thank you sir. I have had some difficulty following a dual catalytic converter delete on a 1999 Chevrolet suburban LS C1500. This works very well as an effective, lasting, and cost effective solution.
You would of better off with a slip in one side with weld in one end or middle to to tab in to give enough room to tab the other side n slide in , but you could of use one of the u bolts to tighten it n tap it in the other side , the u bolts are correct
That donut is there so the exhaust can move. Your engine will naturally shift on the mounts when you accelerate and decelerate. Not allowing that flexibility of movement is going to put more strain on the exhaust system overall. Your exhaust is now much more susceptible to cracks and leaks because of this "fix".
You could cut it out, get a small section of pipe and use a band clamp. Edit: Never mind you did that lol, just using u bolts instead. Im glad you took of that excess RTV though. lol
@2:50 I bought my fist Toyota seven years ago: 1999 Solara 3.0,L Auto Seller told me many came by to look at it, but none wanted to pony up the $1,600 USD asking price. Noob me thought I was getting a good deal despite my right foot being roasted by a leaking exhaust system. I would have had to pay for the car again from manifold on back with Toyota and Midas quotes. Internet for about $550 USD in parts and $259 USD to a shop to deal with stubborn studs and I only shaved about $700 USD.
Here's a link to the famous, and top notch, South Main Auto doing the same, but welding a pipe in, no silicone, no clamps: ruclips.net/video/i6rzKU4jy9Y/видео.html
Good idear. But in maine no splice on exhaust and on brake line is allowed if you do will not pass inspection. You have to replace whole exhaust. Very F$%^ck up and stupid law. So I drivening no inspection
Good Morning Andrew! Clamping first and welding second is essential for a tight fit of the repair. Without clamps the two halves would never fit tight around the existing exhaust pipe. And if you weld the two halves without them being tight around the pipe you'll never get the right fit with clamps after the welding. The clamps simply can't crush down and seal such a short length of pipe. Clamping just takes a minute or two and is essential for the welding to work. Thanks for watching! Steve
BS any good mechanic would buy flange ends with the same diameter exhaust pipe . Then just weld them on and bolted back. three hours of labor and $100 in parts. What a hack job that I just watched
@angelatyler4951 It wont even work ass. The caulk will melt and all the noise will come back. A shop to weld on that sleeve,,,well with modern inconsiderate towards others American prices. would be like 80 bucks!!! Dumb as hell
The problem today, as everyone knows, is that we're still driving around with very old technology cars. Gas engines, exhaust systems, haha, that is over 100 years old. Compare that with what the brick hand-held cell phone was in the 90's and by only 10 years later it had improved by leaps and bounds of upgrades, new versions.... E-cars may not be the solution, but let's see how super simple some car manufacturers can build to have ZERO $ repair maintenance. Like my dad would say. Sure, I will give you some money for that product, but what's in it for me. Fairtrade, fair exchanges, and not the one-sided Capitalists hell-bent b-shit reasoning.
I want this man to be the narrator of all things in my life. He's got that smooth buttery voice and i need it in my life.
So true
Lol, I love this. Back in the 60's I would use baling wire and a soda can to fix my exhaust leaks. This is more modernized.
Great video 👍
Ditto here. While stationed in NAVSTA GTMO, I fixed my cars muffler by driving over the edge of a drainage ditch, crawled in and used a Pepsi can and coat hanger with JB Weld to fix my muffler. 😂 MacGyver would be proud of us!
Impressive repair - your camera work is great and you're also a great speaker/presenter. Thanks for sharing your wisdom so clearly.
Steve, after all those years at Canadian Woodworker I'm glad you've branched out to BLR and wish you the best. Thank you for sharing the bounty of ingenuity. We are not worthy.
One of the best automotive repair videos I've seen. Everything is shown and explained so clearly.
I have an 06 Toyota Tacoma. I love it when I can get an OEM Exhaust system for under $100. Due to how often people want after market exhaust and suspension when they buy thes trucks new😂.
Fantastic old school repair. Gave me great ideas on how to fix the exhaust on my kid's first car.
Thank you from the UK.
you can also use aluminium flyscreen mesh with high temp gasket silicone to fix all sorts of exhuast issues.
I agree. Don’t get point for using soldering and silicone seal together. You could potentially use only soldering for all joining area of metal.
SPLITTING THE PIPE INTO 2 PIECES OR JUST ONE SLIT, GREAT IDEA MATE, I,LL GIVE IT A DRY, STAY AWESOME SIR . THANK-YOU !!
Extraordinary detail ! Super helpful !
I learned lots !
Thanks mate 👊🏼
Good Morning! Thanks for your note and kind words. I've had good results with this kind of repair lasting many years.
Drop by my website baileylineroad.com for a visit sometime. You'll find lots of stuff there, including tool giveaways, articles and videos of interest to hands-on, how-to people. I've got a give-away on the go now for a 6500 watt tri-fuel generator.
Bye for now and thanks for watching!
Steve
Thanks for posting. I'm 72 with bad knees to be crawling up underneath a car maybe just to change the oil at most, lol. But one thing's for sure, I've got this bookmarked just in case some one can use the video's info and the comments. Have a safe one.
Sanderson Headers in California have a precision weld bead around the port flanges. A tube of Permatex Red High Temp is included with them. The instructions say to apply a bead around the ports on the header flanges. Allow to skin over, then install the headers on the cylinder heads. Then wait until the silicone fully cures before starting the engine. After a short warm up then check the torque on the header bolts. You have made a wise choice for the repair.
So you welded a homemade flange when you could’ve just welded a regular flange and you used high temp rtv? I give you props you went all out when you already have the tools to do it correctly is amazing
Weird.
They sell inexpensive flange kits, in all sizes.
Both donuts and flanges.
Both weld and no weld kits. These flanges are designed for movement.
This reminds me of the old metal tape and JB weld repairs.
good idea cutting pipe half and adjusting... thanks you
Do you think for those who don't have access to a welder they could use the high temp silicone on the long seems? If applied liberally to the outer half and have it squish out over inner half, maybe even with a third clamp in the middle.
When you live overseas these tricks are priceless.
Excellent video! Got lots of ideas for my own repair. Much appreciated.
I could only wish I live in upstate NY real hard to get anyone to help you like that! Special during this virus and I think this is what I need!
Great video tip. Thanks.
Had a problem @ Cdn Tire. Mine doesn’t do welding!
Google, “car exhaust pipe flexible connector”.
A flexible metal basket woven connector is what I used.
PS. Pls use an N95 dust mask when cutting.
Lungs are like vacuum cleaner bags,
but you cannot replace them...
John S. Richards "Lungs are like vacuum cleaner bags, but you cannot replace them.."
For sure. It really hit home for me from a Navy Seal(You Tube, Buds class 234) who had both of his replaced because of job related hazards. He was given 8 years after the operation, has since run a half marathon and is 10 years plus and doing well. Oo-rah!
Note to self: - Before doing any electric welding to vehicle, disconnect negative cable from battery.
Why?
Avoids accidently frying onboard electronics.
Thanks for the tip!
Great tip. Definitely locking this one in my memory bank. Thanks.
I dont understand, if you have a welder why not tack it together, take it off and fully weld it?
Good video. I have done this with soup and tomato paste cans without welding. Using cans you only need to make one cut up the side of the can. I also used a soda can to fix a cracked sway bar bracket on my son's Camry. Putting the can between the bushing and the bracket gave enough strength to the bracket to prevent the bracket from coming apart. Happy Motoring.
If you have a welder..why wouldnt you jusr weld yhe ends as well?
Can you still do this without welding it?
Super genius
You save me $$$
Thank you!
Great job thank you for sharing your ideas, i think i will do the same in my car.
Excellent. What type of welding are you using, btw?
@5:45
Thanks for the tip: "high temperature silicone.". Never heard of the stuff before.
Worked great for my truck exhaust leak , thank you
Glad it helped!
Not a bad idea but what also works well is buy yourself a stainless steel band clamp and if you want you can cut a small piece of pipe to fill in the space that you cut out and put the band clamp over the whole mess with exhaust sealer or high heat silicone also sometimes piece of aluminum siding flashing underneath the band clamp makes it more of a leak-proof seal I've done it plenty of times but I still like your idea pretty good
Band Camp? Is this American Pie? Lol
Could you have sliced the repair piece only once....instead of on opposite sides 180 degrees apart? It seems you could still use the "overlap" method...but then you would only need one welded-seam..
Excellent job👏 i which you where near me i have this problem with my isuzu ascender 😔
Excellent video But when working in tight spaces the Milwaukee m12 die grinder or m12 rotary tool might be easier
Why two halves? Can you make one length-wise cut instead? One edge could be easier to setup to welding access.
why silicone at all, just weld it
Couldn't you silicone the sides of the pipe halves instead of welding? It looks like enough of an overlap in the halves to allow the silicone to seal properly.
This seems to be a genius muffler hack! Esp if you know someone who’s a welder… which I do!! Looks like a fun weekend to try this out! Thanks for sharing!
Great idea. My only problem is the angle curve
wtf why didnt u jus weld the whole thing. looks like u can weld prety good
I think you could just use a ss 3” band clamp from an auto parts store and the silicone. Awesome fix though
Hello and thanks for watching! I have used band clamps in the past, but they don't last long enough. In this application I'd be especially uneasy about a band clamp because if it ever fell off, the noise would be deafening so close to the engine. Thanks again! Steve
My welding is bad, especially in such a difficult position. Do you think JBWelding it would do the job?
A little late but for anyone else, you can do the same fix he does by using a cheap pipe connector and clamp only (with the high heat silicone ofc), no welding necessary.
They sell a "butt joint exhaust band" for us lazy guys. This replaces your pipe you cut as well as the clamps into one unit. They do sell it in different sizes for the various diameter exhaust pipes. I'm going to try one of those along with the high temp silicone, I don't have the capability to weld anything but I'm hoping my repair works.
clever, and some interesting ideas in the comments also
Hammering the new two piece pipe seems difficult. I think I would use an exhaust spreader.
I’ve never seen high temperature silicone that is good enough for exhaust without blowing out…
Thank you sir. I have had some difficulty following a dual catalytic converter delete on a 1999 Chevrolet suburban LS C1500. This works very well as an effective, lasting, and cost effective solution.
it does nit affect for emition test?
Humm I like the concept , but when the car started there was a puff of smoke and the corner. So as long and you are welding anyway fix the leaks.
It's a good thing this "repair" is mostly hidden.
Why you didn't buy a band clamp simply?
Man I wish you had an asmr channel !
very soothing very nice narration, yes i agree with you mama teri
You would of better off with a slip in one side with weld in one end or middle to to tab in to give enough room to tab the other side n slide in , but you could of use one of the u bolts to tighten it n tap it in the other side , the u bolts are correct
That donut is there so the exhaust can move. Your engine will naturally shift on the mounts when you accelerate and decelerate. Not allowing that flexibility of movement is going to put more strain on the exhaust system overall. Your exhaust is now much more susceptible to cracks and leaks because of this "fix".
Excellent video and clear simple instructions. I really like the way you work. Thanks !
Good idea an nice job! Thanks!
way to go, excellent rapair!
In the uk mileage like that would be scrap
A good option!
They sure design these vehicles with planned obsolescence in mind don't they?
You could cut it out, get a small section of pipe and use a band clamp.
Edit: Never mind you did that lol, just using u bolts instead. Im glad you took of that excess RTV though. lol
Just make the cut bigger so you can slip the pipe on an not have to cut it in half an use the clamps
I wanted to hear how it sounded before and after
You wouldn't want to use RTV upstream of a catalytic converter though. The silicone will poison the cat and you may end up having to replace it.
Get automotive sensor safe hi temp RVT will be fine
Flex pipe is your ticket
15$ part from auto zone would of saved this wreck. just need a stainless steel band clamp
At 6:19 it could last 6 - 8 years, wow!
What world are you living in
Title says money saving, yet thumbnail shows him using $100s in saw and welding tools, lol.
If he is saving $2500, that $2500 pays for a lot of tools (that you can keep and use on another job).
@@tommak65162500 for an exhaust flange being broken is nonsense, I had my whole exhaust replaced at the shop for $200, just not worth doing it.
Let's see them old repairs.....and how they hold up to clamps and rtv
Better they didn't last
@2:50
I bought my fist Toyota seven years ago: 1999 Solara 3.0,L Auto
Seller told me many came by to look at it, but none wanted to pony up the $1,600 USD asking price.
Noob me thought I was getting a good deal despite my right foot being roasted by a leaking exhaust system.
I would have had to pay for the car again from manifold on back with Toyota and Midas quotes. Internet for about $550 USD in parts and $259 USD to a shop to deal with stubborn studs and I only shaved about $700 USD.
You had a welder, and you had to go goop the silicone. lol Just stick a butt connector and weld it on both sides and be done with it properly.
$2500.... You're definitely going to the wrong place.
That's something I'd have done when I was playing with play doe
I don't think that silicone in your catalytic converter is going be good long term. I suppose if you do not care about emissions this could work.
It leaked at start up
Hood try but not a hard fix for shop... or auto zone piece of pipe...pipe spreader... clamp it...!
Good job, but I figured there should be an easier fix.
How come nobody ever adds in the cost of the beer necessary to be drunk during the accomplishment of this job.
13:43 i see that small leak better than what I got going on tho 😢
Work for me 😉
Great!
Red green would use duck tape
Here's a link to the famous, and top notch, South Main Auto doing the same, but welding a pipe in, no silicone, no clamps: ruclips.net/video/i6rzKU4jy9Y/видео.html
I've used cans of soup and small libby's juice cans to repair my muffler. smell like chicken soup when i drive.
ya when I was 16 and tried a washing machine hose spliced in for heater hose on old truck . I need a cheap product for body filler not bondo. caulk ?
"Customer States..."
🤣💀
YOU HAVE SEEMS, WELD THEM! wtf 🤣 🤣
No way will this pass an MOT
Good idear. But in maine no splice on exhaust and on brake line is allowed if you do will not pass inspection. You have to replace whole exhaust. Very F$%^ck up and stupid law. So I drivening no inspection
You have seams to weld....why are you wasting time with clamps and rtv AND welding....why wouldn't you weld the whole thing??
Good Morning Andrew! Clamping first and welding second is essential for a tight fit of the repair. Without clamps the two halves would never fit tight around the existing exhaust pipe. And if you weld the two halves without them being tight around the pipe you'll never get the right fit with clamps after the welding. The clamps simply can't crush down and seal such a short length of pipe. Clamping just takes a minute or two and is essential for the welding to work.
Thanks for watching!
Steve
thats the problem with big garages . of course they're going to sell you a $2,500 if you let them.
Easiest way to find a exhaust leak is NOT your finger.....especially if its hot! LOL use soapy water
7
😳🇵🇱🤝💪
BS any good mechanic would buy flange ends with the same diameter exhaust pipe . Then just weld them on and bolted back. three hours of labor and $100 in parts. What a hack job that I just watched
www.bearriverconverters.store/products/brc8225ss-2-1-4-2-25-id-exhaust-spherical-joint-spring-bolt-flange-pipe-repair?variant=11316729282603¤cy=USD&network=g&device=m&keyword=&campaign=6447966466&adgroup=pla-803941387593&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9r7Em8zB6wIVCaCzCh0KngMTEAQYAiABEgJu7_D_BwE
ya and all the novices praise a lot of these hacks watch 20 you tube videos 20 different ways and learn by their mistakes.
needs flange back
Well... I don't have a welder. Or a hoist. Or the money to pay someone who does. So this fits MY need as a car owner. Ass
@angelatyler4951 It wont even work ass. The caulk will melt and all the noise will come back. A shop to weld on that sleeve,,,well with modern inconsiderate towards others American prices. would be like 80 bucks!!! Dumb as hell
Easiest way to spot an exhaust leak......is with your tongue.....just use a glob of that rtv as a lubricant
😂
The problem today, as everyone knows, is that we're still driving around with very old technology cars. Gas engines, exhaust systems, haha, that is over 100 years old. Compare that with what the brick hand-held cell phone was in the 90's and by only 10 years later it had improved by leaps and bounds of upgrades, new versions.... E-cars may not be the solution, but let's see how super simple some car manufacturers can build to have ZERO $ repair maintenance. Like my dad would say. Sure, I will give you some money for that product, but what's in it for me. Fairtrade, fair exchanges, and not the one-sided Capitalists hell-bent b-shit reasoning.
if you got new tech bucks.
this is a chopper job.;lol