Plug tops are important. They contribution to safety is so often just bypassed by the consumer. load it up load it up it will be ok. Now you can tell them why you are suggesting extra wall sockets and to stop using those 4 extension leads.
The heat generated in a plug top fuse this is why I was always told to replace moulded plugs with a standard plug as heat can not escape from a moulded plug and may result in the plug overheating and burning. Also a standard plug has a small hole above the earth pin and a wide opening for the flex these allow heat to escape from the plug . Moulded plugs are completely sealed so heat can’t escape from them.
What an excellent observation. I never thought of that so thanks for enlightening me. Brilliant. And thank you for watching and contributing, appreciated. Dave.
Standard wirable 13A plugs are not all like that. I just looked at one I have in the bag and no provision at all. Must a cheap illegal import. Many had the top vent hole on the top of the lid. Or an enlarged locating hole for the lid, on the top of the lid - I just noticed my 5A round pin lighting plugs have an enlarged locating hole on a triangular lid which can only be fitted one way when fitting, which are _fuseless._
Great video as ever Dave. Why do manufacturers and British Standards design these fusing factors into their overload devices? Why can’t a fuse with an “In” of 13A operate at 13A of current? Or an MCB with an “In” of 32A operate at 32A?
Something that always concerned me. They should all allow a small overload for e very short time, but agreed, where is the safety in waiting two weeks for the fuse to blow if your stood on a chair with a handful of live wires.
This video is about finding breaks in cables. Thanks for the prompt, I could do a video on shorts. Good luck. Dave. Take a look on this link. ruclips.net/video/FtMUuj8GaZQ/видео.html
The plug top is next to a paragraph that says - always check plug tops when doing PAT testing. If you don't take the cover off, you will never find the problems. Well spotted
It's amazing how many experienced sparks don't even understand the concept of Fusing factors and tables. For example, how many times do we see immersion heaters fed from a 13A FCU instead of a 20A DP switch? Thanks for the usual, clear way of sharing your knowledge 👏
If the cable from the switch to the immersion is suitably rated, then why is it a problem? Immersion elements are 3000w drawing 12.5 A for about an hour per full tank reheat. 1.5mm heat resistant flex has a rating of 16A, I would use 2.5mm which is 24A. The whole circuit should be on a 16A MCB/RCBO. I would argue either method of isolation is satisfactory, but every day is a school day?
@@MS-Patriot2 interesting to see you choose 2.5mm over 1.5mm even though 1.5mm is rated at 16A and well above the 12.5-13A the element can draw. I agree with your choice and for me, it is because of the time the cable and switch will be drawing that current for 2 hours or thereabouts for an average 117L tank, rather than the hour you suggest, and doing that cycling regularly will and does eventually deteriorate the plastic of the FCU. Also, as you point out the regs stipulate it should be on its own circuit anyway, so does it need a 13A BS1362 after your OCPD in the board? I don't think so. And yes, every day is a school day for me as well.
@@olly7673 Nice discussion, how it should be. Made me think a bit more and I’m now going to replace a couple that I have put on FCUs with the 20A DP switch. Why else would they make one !? I have seen the heat damage on older installations, it’s real. I prefer the 2.5mm flex just for the safety margin but it’s probably overkill as the load won’t draw more than 13A and the 16A mcb will instantly trip on a live fault and the RCD/RCBO will catch the other more likely faults. Same argument for purpose built immersion timers, they need to be rated for the duty cycle. Now shall we discuss the cooker diversity chestnut ?👍😎
I'm just about to finish Level 3 after 2 years of study and here I am learning valuable information about a plug top from RUclips. Thank you.
Plug tops are important. They contribution to safety is so often just bypassed by the consumer. load it up load it up it will be ok. Now you can tell them why you are suggesting extra wall sockets and to stop using those 4 extension leads.
Mate this is so useful. I will never look at a plug the same again. Just brilliant. Thankyou. Please keep the videos going.
Thanks, will do. Lots more to come and glad you liked the video. Dave.
Can't get better than this. Thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you. Dave.
Yet another of your brilliant videos David
Thanks John. Super comment. Dave.
Love these videos, made so easy to follow 👏
Glad you like them. The intention is to make one video per subject so that everyone can follow them. Dave.
The heat generated in a plug top fuse this is why I was always told to replace moulded plugs with a standard plug as heat can not escape from a moulded plug and may result in the plug overheating and burning. Also a standard plug has a small hole above the earth pin and a wide opening for the flex these allow heat to escape from the plug . Moulded plugs are completely sealed so heat can’t escape from them.
What an excellent observation. I never thought of that so thanks for enlightening me. Brilliant. And thank you for watching and contributing, appreciated. Dave.
Standard wirable 13A plugs are not all like that. I just looked at one I have in the bag and no provision at all. Must a cheap illegal import. Many had the top vent hole on the top of the lid. Or an enlarged locating hole for the lid, on the top of the lid - I just noticed my 5A round pin lighting plugs have an enlarged locating hole on a triangular lid which can only be fitted one way when fitting, which are _fuseless._
Well as usual you are amazing. They do not teach this stuff, all your videos are so educational..
Thank you!
Thanks for the great feedback, appreciated. Dave.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to produce very informative video's on electrical subjects
Thank you, appreciated. Dave.
Wow! This video is very informative and the best video tutorial on the topic for me so far. I really appreciate it. Thanks for sharing it with us Dave
You're very welcome and I'm glad that you enjoyed it. Great support, thank you. Dave.
Thank you! Is the plug in the end of the video miswired on purpose?
Yes. It could be to test the viewers.
Yes, It is next to the paragraph that says always check the plug when doing PAT testing. Well spotted. Dave.
Not exactly a test, but nice to see that some of you have spotted this. It was put next to the paragraph about checking plugs on PAT tests on purpose.
Great little video Dave-
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the comments. Dave.
Another amazing video well done, could you please have a look at plug picture ?
The plug picture near the end is next to the paragraph that says always check plugs when doing PAT testing. Well done for spotting this. Dave.
I'm here again thanks for sharing this with us
Happy to see you again Daniel. Take care my friend. Dave.
An other good video with need to know info. But is there other sizes of fuses available for smaller appliances. Thanks for sharing.
Yes there are other sizes. The trend now is to install either 3 amp or 13 amp, as required, and 5 amp for computers.
Available from 1amp upwards. Many insert 1A fuses in plugs on table lamps with LED bulbs.
Great video as ever Dave. Why do manufacturers and British Standards design these fusing factors into their overload devices? Why can’t a fuse with an “In” of 13A operate at 13A of current? Or an MCB with an “In” of 32A operate at 32A?
Something that always concerned me. They should all allow a small overload for e very short time, but agreed, where is the safety in waiting two weeks for the fuse to blow if your stood on a chair with a handful of live wires.
The 3 pin plug at 14 min has the blue wire connected to the fuse?
Yes it does. It's next to the paragraph about checking plugs when PAT testing. Thanks for watching, appreciated, Dave.
Well done spotting the deliberate mistake
may you add another vedio about how to find a .short circuit or wire, in a house
This video is about finding breaks in cables. Thanks for the prompt, I could do a video on shorts. Good luck. Dave.
Take a look on this link.
ruclips.net/video/FtMUuj8GaZQ/видео.html
Thank you for the so informative explanation .The wiring on the demonstrated picture of the plug top are wrong .way round.
The plug top is next to a paragraph that says - always check plug tops when doing PAT testing. If you don't take the cover off, you will never find the problems. Well spotted
It's amazing how many experienced sparks don't even understand the concept of Fusing factors and tables. For example, how many times do we see immersion heaters fed from a 13A FCU instead of a 20A DP switch? Thanks for the usual, clear way of sharing your knowledge 👏
If the cable from the switch to the immersion is suitably rated, then why is it a problem? Immersion elements are 3000w drawing 12.5 A for about an hour per full tank reheat. 1.5mm heat resistant flex has a rating of 16A, I would use 2.5mm which is 24A. The whole circuit should be on a 16A MCB/RCBO. I would argue either method of isolation is satisfactory, but every day is a school day?
@@MS-Patriot2 interesting to see you choose 2.5mm over 1.5mm even though 1.5mm is rated at 16A and well above the 12.5-13A the element can draw. I agree with your choice and for me, it is because of the time the cable and switch will be drawing that current for 2 hours or thereabouts for an average 117L tank, rather than the hour you suggest, and doing that cycling regularly will and does eventually deteriorate the plastic of the FCU. Also, as you point out the regs stipulate it should be on its own circuit anyway, so does it need a 13A BS1362 after your OCPD in the board? I don't think so. And yes, every day is a school day for me as well.
@@olly7673 Nice discussion, how it should be. Made me think a bit more and I’m now going to replace a couple that I have put on FCUs with the 20A DP switch. Why else would they make one !? I have seen the heat damage on older installations, it’s real. I prefer the 2.5mm flex just for the safety margin but it’s probably overkill as the load won’t draw more than 13A and the 16A mcb will instantly trip on a live fault and the RCD/RCBO will catch the other more likely faults. Same argument for purpose built immersion timers, they need to be rated for the duty cycle. Now shall we discuss the cooker diversity chestnut ?👍😎
A 13A switched FCU with 1.5 heat resistant three core is given in the books. I like the idea of using a 20 DP, plenty of room to get 2.5 cable in.
Great comments, really appreciated, Thanks.
This is a joke that it doesn’t blow at 14 Amps but kills the socket by heating it up. = =
Incredible but true. I was surprised too. Thanks for watching.
plug top? That is the lid on the top of the plug.
Plug, plug top, we all know what we are talking about. Thanks for watching.
@@learnelectrics4402
It is still the lid on the top of the plug though. ☺