Thank you. Looking at training to become a domestic installer next year. These videos are brilliantly clear and making me excited about getting qualified in this trade! 🎉
I would do a little digging into the routes into the electrical industry, the whole "domestic installer" part P courses etc aren't a valid way to get accredited now, so it's essentially all or nothing now.
@tomistallard I believe it used to be that you could sign up to NAPIT or similar having completed a domestic installers course and therefore certify your work. A recent change means that membership is only available to those with the appropriate NVQ, following completion of an apprenticeship or appropriate city and guilds courses. So starting from scratch, someone looking to become accredited and be an approved electrician would need to have done/completed the following. C&G 2365 L2 C&G 2365 L3 18th Edition C&G 2391 Inspection and Test NVQ L3 AM2 Some of those qualifications have equivalents for those going through an apprenticeship I believe, but if you're an adult learning looking to retrain, those would be the courses you'd need to complete.
@@asawyer2872 nice one thanks for all that. The training I found has a 'domestic installer course' which includes a number of qualifications. I'll check to see if all of those mentioned are included or offered. Thank you. Next step for me... Find a good MFT on a budget!
Brilliantly usefull video as usual. An additional teaching tool, to those of us that need to familiarise ourselves with the regs more, could be, links to the reg sections and paragraphs etc...........just an idea ord lad....................;)
If I’m upgrading a bathroom extractor fan to one that requires a type A rcd do I need to replace the type ac with a type A or can I leave the type ac unplaced as regs are not retrospective?
Take a look at the video on the link below, it describes the differences. An original type AC RCD will still detect some types of fault on the unit. However, the Regs always recommend that manufacturer's instructions are followed for best protection. ruclips.net/video/bOTberqGvQU/видео.html
I usually specify double pole isolation sockets in the kitchen, both for fused spurs and double and single sockets...just a personal preference within the kitchen environment work top area.
The current Electrician's Guide states that only built-in appliances require a remote, accessible switch. For appliances pushed under, the socket should be accessible when the appliance is pulled out. (5.2.3 (g) and (h)) Better done as shown in the video but not always popular.
Is it OK to lose-lay cables and junction boxes on the kitchen floor behind the kitchen base units and horizontally in the service duct? Do they all have to be clipped too? My walls are concrete base plaster so cannot easily take a masonry nail and I have removed all the skirting boards.
there is nothing that says not to. Just be aware of IP ratings if they are on the floor, washing floors, pipework etc. can you bond a piece of plywood to the wall with Sticks Like or Gorilla and then screw into that so you have a little clearance off the floor for the junction boxes.
Thank you for another brilliant video Dave ! Could you please include the source of information where all of the measurements have been taken from such as the installation of sockets 300 mm from the sink and cooker edge, as well as sockets 150 mm above the worktop, or is it just your own recommendation? Few videos on EICR touching this object but every person uses their own source. Thank you.
Its come from all the books that we use, The Wiring Regulations, On-Site Guide, Electricians Guide to the Building Regulations, Approved Document P etc. None are my own recommendations, its all from the regulations. Dave.
I presently have a 4.2KW double oven and basic ceramic hob both connected to 6mm wiring through the CCU and cooker switch. Looking at replacing the ceramic hob with a 7.2KW induction hob so not sure it it would that run on the present circuit or would it need it's own 6mm feed from the fuse box.
He mentioned sockets behind washing machine and under sinks , but he didn’t mention anything about single sockets next to the cooker connection unit behind the oven. Which is for the electric ignition on older gas cookers.
It's nice to see different perspectives on this. Didn't have a clue about they did that in Wales boyo 🐑🍆🙄 Some feedback intended to help. . . The sound on the vids can seem a bit distorted when viewers are using headphones. I might be an idea to upgrade the mic? Thank you for putting these online 🙂
I've tried 4 mics. Using a blue Yeti at the moment. But it sounds ok on my earphones. And its a different computer to the original. I'll take another look, thanks.
@learnelectrics4402 I would agree with HeathenGeek - there is some slight distortion in the audio. However, I suspect it is not the mic but perhaps your recording levels are too high and, as a consequence, there is some clipping of the audio signal.
It is better to have the washing machine socket fixed inside the nearest cupboard for easy acsess and operation for maintenance. and install worktop sockets nine inches from surface to center.
may be not part p its self but one of the guidance advice notes associated to it as there are many, its been good practice for a long time to do what you've asked from the video, its a logical practice in most circumstances or designs, so yes, meet the minimum guidance, but more importantly use common sense. The videos reference to "must be" is more to do with the logic of safety, always apply logic to the needs of any design, put it in writing and this will help in the future if something was to ever go wrong. hope this helps my friend.@@lechk1823
@@brianhewitt8618It is located in On Site Guide Appendix H#4. It is a guide though. My question is where does it say that it is a "Must" or "shall" not recommendation or a guidance?
@3m21 you state sockets under sink is not recommended. Well the English regs do. This sits bad with me. I think it is a poor engineering decision. I have seen many a leak under a kitchen sink. I do like the idea of the Welsh kitchen needing notification. Should help cut down on cowboy kitchen fitters
That used to be in the English Part P too, but for reasons known only to themselves, the authorities took kitchens out of Part P notifiable locations. Thanks for watching.
It wouldn't be a Sunday morning without watching the latest L.E. video whilst eating my breakfast 😊
Its a very important meal. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Many thanks dave.. Im about to re wire a kitchen & this video is memory refreshing. 👌
Glad it helped. Appreciated.
Thank you. Looking at training to become a domestic installer next year. These videos are brilliantly clear and making me excited about getting qualified in this trade! 🎉
Great to hear that. Its a good trade to be in. Choose your training centre carefully. Dave.
I would do a little digging into the routes into the electrical industry, the whole "domestic installer" part P courses etc aren't a valid way to get accredited now, so it's essentially all or nothing now.
@@asawyer2872 cheers for the info. You say 'aren't a way to get accredited now'. What's changed?
@tomistallard I believe it used to be that you could sign up to NAPIT or similar having completed a domestic installers course and therefore certify your work.
A recent change means that membership is only available to those with the appropriate NVQ, following completion of an apprenticeship or appropriate city and guilds courses.
So starting from scratch, someone looking to become accredited and be an approved electrician would need to have done/completed the following.
C&G 2365 L2
C&G 2365 L3
18th Edition
C&G 2391 Inspection and Test
NVQ L3
AM2
Some of those qualifications have equivalents for those going through an apprenticeship I believe, but if you're an adult learning looking to retrain, those would be the courses you'd need to complete.
@@asawyer2872 nice one thanks for all that. The training I found has a 'domestic installer course' which includes a number of qualifications. I'll check to see if all of those mentioned are included or offered. Thank you.
Next step for me... Find a good MFT on a budget!
Excellent tutorial again thankyou so much
You’re welcome, and appreciated. Dave.
Thanks Dave.. superbly clear as ever. Very helpful to me.. !
Glad it was useful. thanks for watching.
Excellent. Clear and precise explanations.
Glad it was helpful, appreciated.
Everything in a nutshell, about kitchen electrical codes. Nice revision lesson here. Thanks Dave, as always.
Thanks for watching, appreciated.
Very informative as usual
Glad you liked it. Dave.
❤❤❤❤Fabulous video ❤
Thanks for the great feedback. Appreciated.
Brilliantly usefull video as usual. An additional teaching tool, to those of us that need to familiarise ourselves with the regs more, could be, links to the reg sections and paragraphs etc...........just an idea ord lad....................;)
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching.
Thank you for your videos. Sharing your knowledge is so valuable and useful and can only help raise standards.
I appreciate that, great comments. Thank you.
Fantastically useful video as always, I never miss an LE video. Thanks so much
Happy to hear that and lots more to come.
Excellent ,spot on about the tiles
Thank you, I appreciate your feedback. Dave.
Thank you Dave
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
And thank you for another great video. 😊
Thank you, really appreciated. Dave.
Excellent explanation Dave-
Thank you, glad you liked it.
Useful video as always 👍
Glad you think so, appreciated.
Good video 👍🏻. I thought you might talk about diversity on cooker circuits though.
There is a video on diversity on the link below. I may well do an update to that in the near future. Dave.
ruclips.net/video/TV2IZtmydm4/видео.html
Helpful thanks
Glad it helped
Thanks a lot. Learn lots of new things
Glad to hear that, thanks for watching.
Great video please make more
many more planned. thanks.
thank you. keep up the good work please
Thanks, will do. Dave.
If I’m upgrading a bathroom extractor fan to one that requires a type A rcd do I need to replace the type ac with a type A or can I leave the type ac unplaced as regs are not retrospective?
Take a look at the video on the link below, it describes the differences.
An original type AC RCD will still detect some types of fault on the unit.
However, the Regs always recommend that manufacturer's instructions are followed for best protection.
ruclips.net/video/bOTberqGvQU/видео.html
I usually specify double pole isolation sockets in the kitchen, both for fused spurs and double and single sockets...just a personal preference within the kitchen environment work top area.
We all have preferred methods, I think your philosophy is spot on. Great stuff, and thanks for your input, appreciated.
The current Electrician's Guide states that only built-in appliances require a remote, accessible switch. For appliances pushed under, the socket should be accessible when the appliance is pulled out. (5.2.3 (g) and (h))
Better done as shown in the video but not always popular.
Thanks for the input. Dave.
Is it OK to lose-lay cables and junction boxes on the kitchen floor behind the kitchen base units and horizontally in the service duct? Do they all have to be clipped too? My walls are concrete base plaster so cannot easily take a masonry nail and I have removed all the skirting boards.
there is nothing that says not to. Just be aware of IP ratings if they are on the floor, washing floors, pipework etc. can you bond a piece of plywood to the wall with Sticks Like or Gorilla and then screw into that so you have a little clearance off the floor for the junction boxes.
I'll do that, thanks@@learnelectrics4402
Thank you for another brilliant video Dave !
Could you please include the source of information where all of the measurements have been taken from such as the installation of sockets 300 mm from the sink and cooker edge, as well as sockets 150 mm above the worktop, or is it just your own recommendation? Few videos on EICR touching this object but every person uses their own source.
Thank you.
Its come from all the books that we use, The Wiring Regulations, On-Site Guide, Electricians Guide to the Building Regulations, Approved Document P etc. None are my own recommendations, its all from the regulations. Dave.
@@learnelectrics4402 thank you for reply Dave💪🏼
I presently have a 4.2KW double oven and basic ceramic hob both connected to 6mm wiring through the CCU and cooker switch.
Looking at replacing the ceramic hob with a 7.2KW induction hob so not sure it it would that run on the present circuit or would it need it's own 6mm feed from the fuse box.
Je vous remercie grand professeur
Bonne Année mon ami.
He mentioned sockets behind washing machine and under sinks , but he didn’t mention anything about single sockets next to the cooker connection unit behind the oven. Which is for the electric ignition on older gas cookers.
Thanks for watching.
It's nice to see different perspectives on this. Didn't have a clue about they did that in Wales boyo 🐑🍆🙄
Some feedback intended to help. . . The sound on the vids can seem a bit distorted when viewers are using headphones. I might be an idea to upgrade the mic?
Thank you for putting these online 🙂
I've tried 4 mics. Using a blue Yeti at the moment. But it sounds ok on my earphones. And its a different computer to the original. I'll take another look, thanks.
@learnelectrics4402 I would agree with HeathenGeek - there is some slight distortion in the audio. However, I suspect it is not the mic but perhaps your recording levels are too high and, as a consequence, there is some clipping of the audio signal.
It is better to have the washing machine socket fixed inside the nearest cupboard for easy acsess and operation for maintenance. and install worktop sockets nine inches from surface to center.
Thanks for your input Michael, brilliant. Thanks for watching, appreciated.
👍
Thank you Brian.
I'm here again
Thank you Daniel.
Where does it says in bs7671 that cooker switch MUST be positioned within 2m of cooking appliances?
not bs7671 but Part P building regs guidance
@@brianhewitt8618Which page of Approved Document Part P? I can't locate it and would like to know.
may be not part p its self but one of the guidance advice notes associated to it as there are many, its been good practice for a long time to do what you've asked from the video, its a logical practice in most circumstances or designs, so yes, meet the minimum guidance, but more importantly use common sense. The videos reference to "must be" is more to do with the logic of safety, always apply logic to the needs of any design, put it in writing and this will help in the future if something was to ever go wrong. hope this helps my friend.@@lechk1823
@@brianhewitt8618It is located in On Site Guide Appendix H#4. It is a guide though. My question is where does it say that it is a "Must" or "shall" not recommendation or a guidance?
if it doesn't say it definitively then its guidance@@lechk1823
@3m21 you state sockets under sink is not recommended. Well the English regs do. This sits bad with me. I think it is a poor engineering decision. I have seen many a leak under a kitchen sink.
I do like the idea of the Welsh kitchen needing notification. Should help cut down on cowboy kitchen fitters
That used to be in the English Part P too, but for reasons known only to themselves, the authorities took kitchens out of Part P notifiable locations. Thanks for watching.
Sod those crappy Welsh kitchen requirements eh 😂
Thanks for watching.