@@JohnAldred Hey lover the first part, do you have any plans to do the follow up video still? I want to make this but never coded before do a tutorial would be amazing
If anyone is planning on making this, I just used a 80mm long metric bolt with a nylon lock nut for the main axle, its easier to find and you can also set a bit of a pre-load on the bearings to remove any wobble. Do you still plan on releasing part 2 of this? I am interested in how you went about writing some code for it. I have made a basic python program to control it with the keyboard.
Hey John, I've really been enjoying your videos. Looking forward to the part 2 of this one. Quick question: Where did you get that fancy little electric screw driver? It looks pretty slick and I would imagine it would come in handy in swapping out the SM2 350 beds.
Hey, thanks, Erik! Yup, it's very useful for that, haha. That would be the Wowstick. A Friend of mine gave it me for Christmas a few years ago. It's really handy. amzn.to/2NK75Yj
I just stumbeled over this video and was wondering if you still plan a part two. I can't find any docummentation on this. Also I cant find any details on what stepper drivers I shold use and how i controlling all of this.
Yup, still planning to do a part 2, just real-life stuff keeps getting in the way and making it impossible. It is still coming, though! :) Pretty much any stepper driver you'd normally use for a 3D printer will work from the cheap, basic A4988s to more advanced Trinomic drivers. I usually use TMC2208s. They're cheap and silent!
It's coming! I've been taking a little break from RUclips the last few weeks, but it's definitely coming and high up on my list to get completed now. It's been tough, because I wanted to create a custom solution that I could open source and put up on GitHub for everybody to play with, but it's not been working quite the way I intended, haha. But I will definitely have Part 2 comings soon :)
For the software right now I'm just using GRBL. The electronics are an Arduino with the CNC shield and TMC2208 drivers. I'll have part 2 up soon going over all of that. :)
Wow, I think I gonna build one for my motion timelapse project, also I will put a 3. motor for the slider. Also there is a cool panoramic software Panomoments, it's a hybrid of 360 photography and timelapse, you need a motorized panohead to produce it.
It's the Wow Stick. A friend got it me for Christmas a few years ago. It's nice but the torque is quite low if you need to cut threads into plastic. Great if you're going through holes and into threaded nuts and sockets, though. :)
Hey, I'd like to build this, but I have a couple of questions. 1) Do you have any ideas on how I could modify this to screw onto a tripod? 2) It seems that the Thingiverse link for your redesigned parts is no longer working. Is there any way for me to get those files? Thanks
1) Not yet, but it's something I'll be working on. 2) Very odd. The URL is correct. I just checked and it only seems to be coming up if I'm logged into Thingiverse, but not when I'm logged out. No idea why, it's been public since I posted this video. I'll stick it up on MyMiniFactory and update the link as soon as I get a chance!
I decided to just go ahead and do it now. It's not listed yet, but I've updated the URL in the description. You can grab it here. :) www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-arca-swiss-mounting-plate-mechanical-end-stop-gear-for-fhuable-s-motorised-gimbal-210957
Hello, I Hope you can answer me for 2 questions. 1) which stepper driver you use? 2) what is maximal weight of camera without loosing steps? I build something similar, but my camera is over 2 kgs and I am worried to use nema17 if it is too small?
In the video there I was using A4988s, mostly because they make the stepper noisy so you could hear the music, haha. But normally I'm using TMC2208s. The largest camera I've tried on it is a Nikon D800 with a Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 lens - which is a little under 2kg and it handled it fine. You can always adjust the current going to the stepper drivers (or go with a higher voltage power supply just for the motors - I was using a 12v one here because that's the limit of the Arduino CNC shield but if you use a 3D printer mainboard that supports 24v, that would work and give them more torque and holding power) if you think they need a little more oomph, but they hold pretty well. The main thing is balance. If you can modify the centre rail to mount the tripod plate holder in a way that lets you slide the camera backwards and forwards, you can more easily find a better centre of gravity that's easier on the motors (a bit like balancing a 3-axis gimbal from somebody like Zhiyun or Moza) so it doesn't need as much current and doesn't put as much strain on the motors.
@@JohnAldred thank you for your answer. I also use TMC2208 as very sillent solution, but I am worried about cooling of so small part. With stock cooling (passive) I am about 80°C which I think is too much. I already have 24V supply. I need to make it super sillent, this solution Is for livestreaming from our church. I combine it in way that arduino only works for moving (3 Axis, 3 steppers + 1 servo for zooming) and then there Is ESP32 for remote communication where to go, what to see, how much zooming. I want to make it with autlmation, with database of positons (preacher, workship group, worship leader,...). In future I Will want to extend it with moves to video, I am that in first moment Is my goal to make it just like positon changer, in future I Will want to define complete moves which Will be possible to see in streaming. Thank you again
I haven't found them to run that hot with this, but typically when I'm using it, I'm outdoors (powering from a 3S lipo) and it's pretty cold in Scotland most of the time, haha. Even indoors, though, I've not had any issues with it and I'm just using the small heatsinks that come supplied with the TMC2208s. There's no active cooling. 80°C does seem a little warm, but it's apparently within their operating temperature range (-40°C to 125°C). I'd check the current going to each of them, though, just to make sure you're not sending way more than you need. I don't know what board or firmware you're using, but if you can run the stepper drivers in UART mode, you can control the current dynamically over code so you don't have to keep tweaking with a screwdriver and measuring with a multimeter. :) That makes a lot of sense having the Arduino to control the movement and then using the ESP32 just for remote control. That's the route I'm thinking of going, too because figuring out some code to try to get steppers to move simultaneously on an ESP32 with the speed control and acceleration you get with GRBL or Marlin is a pain. The AccelStepper library's nice, but only works on one motor at a time. MultiStepper's nice but doesn't contain the acceleration features of AccelStepper. Would be nice if the two were merged into one one day so we could control multiple steppers with acceleration. For now, though, I think just using GRBL and adding the ESP32 is the easiest way to go.
@@JohnAldred I dont understand you now. I use accelstepper but with 2 motors. Yes, when you tell to motor 1 that has to go 200 steps, motor 2 500 steps then you have to calculate accelleration And speed for both to stop Finish move in same moment and you have to calculate it with every nove, but you can use more steppers in same moment with accelstepper And with accelleration.
Yes, that's my point. With gcode, I can just say "G1 X200 Y800 Z1428 F30" and it'll pick a feedrate of 30 for whatever's the slowest move and then it'll slow the other two movements down automatically so that they all start and end at the same time with seamless acceleration and deceleration. AccelStepper doesn't do that. As you say, you have to code it to calculate it every move and if I have to do that, then I might as well just make my own library and nto waste time with AccelStepper. But according to the AccelStepper documentation, you need the MultiStepper class for multiple simultaneous stepper control and it doesn't offer acceleration and deceleration. So, as I said, it would be great if the two could be combined into one so that it can do what GRBL or Marlin does.
Well, the Nema17 stepper motors I cannibalised from an old 3D printer, but they're pretty cheap these days (About $6-10 each - lower if you shop around and buy a pack of 5), the Arduino and CNC shield were maybe $10 total on AliExpress, the stepper drivers... A4988s are cheap, you can get a set of five for around $5, but for TMC2208s, I think I paid about $30 equivalent for a set of five (they're much quieter and smoother than the A4988s, though). The two little metal gears were way more expensive than I thought they'd be, they were about $8 each and that was AliExpress prices. The Arca Swiss tripod plate was about $30. And the 12v power supply was one I just had lying around doing nothing. So, even with the filament (and you could do it with a single full roll), you're probably talking about $100 or a little less.
oh it can move completely smooth, but when I was moving them here in the intro, it was to make the music, haha. That sound was coming from the motors and you have to move them at different speeds to get different note frequencies. But yes, it can run completely smooth. :)
If you want to try the Eryone PLA+ filament I used for this project, head on over to www.eryone3d.com - Get 12% off your entire order with code "johnaldred" on checkout.
What does the footage look like using the device? I seen 20 of these types of videos and no one shows what the video looks like using on of these thing. It's almost pointless.
It's a pan/tilt head. Have you ever done a pan or a tilt on a tripod? It's like that only automated. It's pretty easy to envision. There are literally a million videos and timelapses out there that use pan/tilt heads. Ultimately how the footage looks depends on you as the user, what it's pointed at and what you tell it to do. If you feel it's pointless, that says more about you and your needs than the device itself. :)
Well, that would depend on how well your printer's dialled in, the quality of the filament you're using and which electronics and mechanical components you choose to buy. You might just want to consider buying something from Syrp.
Nice job ! =)
And to you, sir! It's a great design. One of these days I'll get around to making Part 2 of this 😂
@@JohnAldred Hey lover the first part, do you have any plans to do the follow up video still? I want to make this but never coded before do a tutorial would be amazing
Hows dat real life stuff going? Part 2 would be siiick. I wanna make one if these and control it over a network.
What happened to part 2
that is awesome!!!
Cant wait to see the rest.
Thanks, Rui! I thought you'd like it :)
Dat intro. 😂 You even added the bass line. ❤️
Of course! You've no idea how tricky it was to get that right 😂
@@JohnAldred BUT, it was well worth it! :D
Absolutely! I wonder what tune I'll use for Part 2 ;)
Are you still planning on doing part 2?! I would love to put this all together using the electronics part 😭
You're so awesome and talented
as usual and as expected from you
you provide us with these great videos.
keep it up and i wish you all the best and god blesd you
Thank you, Marwan :)
Part 2👀?!
If anyone is planning on making this, I just used a 80mm long metric bolt with a nylon lock nut for the main axle, its easier to find and you can also set a bit of a pre-load on the bearings to remove any wobble. Do you still plan on releasing part 2 of this? I am interested in how you went about writing some code for it. I have made a basic python program to control it with the keyboard.
Yup, still planning to do a part 2, just real-life stuff keeps getting in the way and making it impossible. It is still coming, though! :)
Hey John, I've really been enjoying your videos. Looking forward to the part 2 of this one. Quick question: Where did you get that fancy little electric screw driver? It looks pretty slick and I would imagine it would come in handy in swapping out the SM2 350 beds.
Hey, thanks, Erik! Yup, it's very useful for that, haha. That would be the Wowstick. A Friend of mine gave it me for Christmas a few years ago. It's really handy. amzn.to/2NK75Yj
I just stumbeled over this video and was wondering if you still plan a part two. I can't find any docummentation on this. Also I cant find any details on what stepper drivers I shold use and how i controlling all of this.
Yup, still planning to do a part 2, just real-life stuff keeps getting in the way and making it impossible. It is still coming, though! :)
Pretty much any stepper driver you'd normally use for a 3D printer will work from the cheap, basic A4988s to more advanced Trinomic drivers. I usually use TMC2208s. They're cheap and silent!
@@JohnAldred thanks. Excited for part two! It will be useful for sure! :)
Any update for part 2
It's on the way. I've been ill the last few months (which is why I haven't posted anything at all), but I haven't forgotten! :)
Part 2 please
It's coming! I've been taking a little break from RUclips the last few weeks, but it's definitely coming and high up on my list to get completed now. It's been tough, because I wanted to create a custom solution that I could open source and put up on GitHub for everybody to play with, but it's not been working quite the way I intended, haha. But I will definitely have Part 2 comings soon :)
Three years later... 😂😂😂
I am in the process of making something very similar and am stuck on getting the code to work. I would help a lot if I could see what you are using.
For the software right now I'm just using GRBL. The electronics are an Arduino with the CNC shield and TMC2208 drivers. I'll have part 2 up soon going over all of that. :)
Wow, I think I gonna build one for my motion timelapse project, also I will put a 3. motor for the slider.
Also there is a cool panoramic software Panomoments, it's a hybrid of 360 photography and timelapse, you need a motorized panohead to produce it.
Thanks, Diego! I'll have to check that software out. I usually use Photoshop or Hugin to stitch panos together. :)
I have a prusa Mini+. I think the parts are to big for the base plate?
I think the parts should fit. The base might be a tight fit but you can download the STL files and slice them to find out.
Which small electric screw driver do you have?
It's the Wow Stick. A friend got it me for Christmas a few years ago. It's nice but the torque is quite low if you need to cut threads into plastic. Great if you're going through holes and into threaded nuts and sockets, though. :)
Is there no part 2?
Still planning to do a part 2, just real-life stuff keeps getting in the way and making it impossible. It is still coming, though! :)
Hey, I'd like to build this, but I have a couple of questions.
1) Do you have any ideas on how I could modify this to screw onto a tripod?
2) It seems that the Thingiverse link for your redesigned parts is no longer working. Is there any way for me to get those files?
Thanks
1) Not yet, but it's something I'll be working on.
2) Very odd. The URL is correct. I just checked and it only seems to be coming up if I'm logged into Thingiverse, but not when I'm logged out. No idea why, it's been public since I posted this video. I'll stick it up on MyMiniFactory and update the link as soon as I get a chance!
I decided to just go ahead and do it now. It's not listed yet, but I've updated the URL in the description. You can grab it here. :)
www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-arca-swiss-mounting-plate-mechanical-end-stop-gear-for-fhuable-s-motorised-gimbal-210957
@@JohnAldred Thanks!
Hello,
I Hope you can answer me for 2 questions.
1) which stepper driver you use?
2) what is maximal weight of camera without loosing steps?
I build something similar, but my camera is over 2 kgs and I am worried to use nema17 if it is too small?
In the video there I was using A4988s, mostly because they make the stepper noisy so you could hear the music, haha. But normally I'm using TMC2208s. The largest camera I've tried on it is a Nikon D800 with a Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 lens - which is a little under 2kg and it handled it fine. You can always adjust the current going to the stepper drivers (or go with a higher voltage power supply just for the motors - I was using a 12v one here because that's the limit of the Arduino CNC shield but if you use a 3D printer mainboard that supports 24v, that would work and give them more torque and holding power) if you think they need a little more oomph, but they hold pretty well. The main thing is balance. If you can modify the centre rail to mount the tripod plate holder in a way that lets you slide the camera backwards and forwards, you can more easily find a better centre of gravity that's easier on the motors (a bit like balancing a 3-axis gimbal from somebody like Zhiyun or Moza) so it doesn't need as much current and doesn't put as much strain on the motors.
@@JohnAldred thank you for your answer. I also use TMC2208 as very sillent solution, but I am worried about cooling of so small part. With stock cooling (passive) I am about 80°C which I think is too much. I already have 24V supply. I need to make it super sillent, this solution Is for livestreaming from our church.
I combine it in way that arduino only works for moving (3 Axis, 3 steppers + 1 servo for zooming) and then there Is ESP32 for remote communication where to go, what to see, how much zooming. I want to make it with autlmation, with database of positons (preacher, workship group, worship leader,...). In future I Will want to extend it with moves to video, I am that in first moment Is my goal to make it just like positon changer, in future I Will want to define complete moves which Will be possible to see in streaming.
Thank you again
I haven't found them to run that hot with this, but typically when I'm using it, I'm outdoors (powering from a 3S lipo) and it's pretty cold in Scotland most of the time, haha. Even indoors, though, I've not had any issues with it and I'm just using the small heatsinks that come supplied with the TMC2208s. There's no active cooling. 80°C does seem a little warm, but it's apparently within their operating temperature range (-40°C to 125°C). I'd check the current going to each of them, though, just to make sure you're not sending way more than you need. I don't know what board or firmware you're using, but if you can run the stepper drivers in UART mode, you can control the current dynamically over code so you don't have to keep tweaking with a screwdriver and measuring with a multimeter. :)
That makes a lot of sense having the Arduino to control the movement and then using the ESP32 just for remote control. That's the route I'm thinking of going, too because figuring out some code to try to get steppers to move simultaneously on an ESP32 with the speed control and acceleration you get with GRBL or Marlin is a pain. The AccelStepper library's nice, but only works on one motor at a time. MultiStepper's nice but doesn't contain the acceleration features of AccelStepper. Would be nice if the two were merged into one one day so we could control multiple steppers with acceleration. For now, though, I think just using GRBL and adding the ESP32 is the easiest way to go.
@@JohnAldred I dont understand you now. I use accelstepper but with 2 motors. Yes, when you tell to motor 1 that has to go 200 steps, motor 2 500 steps then you have to calculate accelleration And speed for both to stop Finish move in same moment and you have to calculate it with every nove, but you can use more steppers in same moment with accelstepper And with accelleration.
Yes, that's my point. With gcode, I can just say "G1 X200 Y800 Z1428 F30" and it'll pick a feedrate of 30 for whatever's the slowest move and then it'll slow the other two movements down automatically so that they all start and end at the same time with seamless acceleration and deceleration. AccelStepper doesn't do that. As you say, you have to code it to calculate it every move and if I have to do that, then I might as well just make my own library and nto waste time with AccelStepper. But according to the AccelStepper documentation, you need the MultiStepper class for multiple simultaneous stepper control and it doesn't offer acceleration and deceleration. So, as I said, it would be great if the two could be combined into one so that it can do what GRBL or Marlin does.
Did you make a part 2?
Not yet, but. till planning to do a part 2. Real-life stuff keeps getting in the way and making it impossible. It is still coming, though! :)
please make the part 2 when you can. very interesting stuff@@JohnAldred
Hi if you don’t mind me asking do you know how much this cost to make filament and printer not included
Well, the Nema17 stepper motors I cannibalised from an old 3D printer, but they're pretty cheap these days (About $6-10 each - lower if you shop around and buy a pack of 5), the Arduino and CNC shield were maybe $10 total on AliExpress, the stepper drivers... A4988s are cheap, you can get a set of five for around $5, but for TMC2208s, I think I paid about $30 equivalent for a set of five (they're much quieter and smoother than the A4988s, though). The two little metal gears were way more expensive than I thought they'd be, they were about $8 each and that was AliExpress prices. The Arca Swiss tripod plate was about $30. And the 12v power supply was one I just had lying around doing nothing. So, even with the filament (and you could do it with a single full roll), you're probably talking about $100 or a little less.
@@JohnAldred ok
Hi great video but i can’t find part 2
It's coming soon! I am working on it. Just had to take a bit of a health break from YT. But don't worry, I haven't forgotten about it :)
@@JohnAldred Hope you are better now and haven't forgotten about part 2 :)
It doesnt run smooth if the Camera goes up and down?
I'm not sure what you mean. Why wouldn't it be smooth?
@@JohnAldred Hi John! Sorry for my poor english! It seems that the gimbal moves are jerking if the Gimbal goes up and down with the cam.
oh it can move completely smooth, but when I was moving them here in the intro, it was to make the music, haha. That sound was coming from the motors and you have to move them at different speeds to get different note frequencies. But yes, it can run completely smooth. :)
@@JohnAldred You can see it at 18:25 in the outro
@@JohnAldred Ahh...ok. :-) Good idea with the music! :-) Thanks for answer! Best regards from Leipzig/Germany
If you want to try the Eryone PLA+ filament I used for this project, head on over to www.eryone3d.com - Get 12% off your entire order with code "johnaldred" on checkout.
What does the footage look like using the device? I seen 20 of these types of videos and no one shows what the video looks like using on of these thing. It's almost pointless.
It's a pan/tilt head. Have you ever done a pan or a tilt on a tripod? It's like that only automated. It's pretty easy to envision. There are literally a million videos and timelapses out there that use pan/tilt heads. Ultimately how the footage looks depends on you as the user, what it's pointed at and what you tell it to do. If you feel it's pointless, that says more about you and your needs than the device itself. :)
@@JohnAldred the point is how well the one you built performs
Well, that would depend on how well your printer's dialled in, the quality of the filament you're using and which electronics and mechanical components you choose to buy. You might just want to consider buying something from Syrp.