I'm enrolled in the course and building the drone. It is an incredibly good course, and not only does it cover everything you need to know about building this drone in great detail, it also goes over thoroughly the other techniques used in the industry and what the other drones are doing. Truly if you want to build any kind of home-built ROV at all, you should take this course
Thanks Peter! Yeah, brushless is the way to go underwater. We'll hopefully try it in the worlds 2nd (I think) deepest pool, which is 45m. But some ocean expedition also would be nice
@@conorstewart2214 yes and no. After a certain point you have to worry about the voltage used. This needs to increase with length. Let's say every meter the voltage drops 1V as an example. Using a 5V signal can already give problems at 3m as the voltage would reach the logic voltage threshold. This can lead to false signals or even no signals. If they would go past the voltage of the ethernet adapter they would need a Amp in-between the laptop and the cord and the cord and the sub. This sub side is needed to prevent voltages high then the support voltage to enter the pi in this case
For the wires I think you should have made thin 3d printed wires spacers and then used two or three of them along with some solid core wires with no insulation and then soldered the wires for the outside so that the insulation went a little into the epoxy. For the inside you could have a connector partly in the epoxy. This way there would be more epoxy touching the wires direct and the spacers would make sure the wires don't touch. I think just one solder point isn't the best. But if it works it works. Also I wasn't really surprised that water got in. In fact I'm surprised it didn't happen with less depth. Anyway it's a very very nice looking build. Good work!
To prevent water leaking through the insulation you could also use magnet wire, it is coated with a thin layer of insulating material and is perfect for such purposes.
Maybe to add an extra bit of freedom to the drone, you can use some kind of bobber with a receiver on top and an ethernet cable going down to the drone. This way you can extend the range quite a bit.
This is really cool! It would be interesting to see its ability to handle open ocean conditions! An underwater drone has been on my todo list for a while, my only question is if it's already tethered why not tether power in to the drone? It'd remove the need for batteries onboard.
Thanks a lot! So the longer tether we use is 100 meters (330 feet) long. The wires in there are 26awg. So the total resistance of each wire is at least 10 ohms (20 ohms for the wire going into the drone and back). And that's too much for our 6A power requirement if using 60 volts. Also, 60V in the water can be dangerous to wet skin. Batteries are just cheap and effective. We will maybe try doing that with a bigger ROV we plan building for wreck inspections, so we'll see
Beautiful design. For the end cap you could have soldered the wires to a connector/connectors and then used the epoxy to seal the end cap, solder joins and hold the connector. One less set of solder joins to deal with. By adding guides for the connector to the end cap 3d print you could have "standardized" the connector positions and would so always know where the connections would be. Hope the idea could be helpful to you or anyone trying the project out.
Keep up the great work guys! As a professional ROV Pilot/Tech, its great to see this type of stuff getting people interested in subsea exploration. The ability to build a cheap ROV that can hit depths beyond 30 meters will open up so many opportunities for RUclips creators who could never afford a seabotix or blueROV before. I’ll definitely be building one of these as soon as I get home again.
They problem with wires is that the water will still manage to get into the cable (the first end). 2-3 dives in a salty water and that’s done, all you gonna have will be insulation without the actual wire.
The problem with the leakage is the multi-core wire. Your solution is great.. Another that should work well is to use single core heavy transformer wire. The enamel insulation should be completely water proof and by doubling up you can carry as much current as you want. The only difficulty is getting enough heat into it to solder it..
@@albertmagician8613 The problem isn't with the soldering compounds its simply that the copper dissipates a lot of heat. A 50 watt iron can usually do it without too much trouble.
Why didn’t you paint the inside of the drone? And possibly the outside also. That would stop water penetration with less work. Flexible sealants come in spray cans also. Like the Flex Seal brand.
Good job on your design development guys. Question 1. How do you handle the heat generated by the batteries and ESCs inside the acrylic tube? I fly electric RC models and there is always heat generated by the ESCs and batteries. Question 2. Do you leave the batteries inside the acrylic tube when you charge them?
Great job reverse engineering the gladius, however if you have the chance to build your own why not include sideways movement? Its the one major thing missing! For a future course build somthing like the bluerov and include a sensor and manipulator pack. I bet this one cost more than the mini but going pro like the bluerov a lot less.
For stock POE, it’s unfortunately too much power to handle. Could be done, but the stock battery still allows for about 1h of swim time - I think it’s enough.
using acoustic signals and pulses of light to send digital information through seawater, instead of using cable. (Wired ROVs someday will be a thing of the past).
@@12345sdfghful No kidding?! I figured it's one of those $10 piezzo drivers with a little bit of software. If that's cheap then I'm in the wrong business. I need to start making water modems.
@@CPSdrone Let me know if you guys would want to collaborate sometime! it would be cool to make a version of my snowcat that can drive on the bottom of the lake. Could basically just take your electronics tube and attach it to the snowcat platform
Amazing video, one of the most impressive facts I learned was the smoothness of the propellers. I could have imagined around 30%, but whole 100% insane. What is what physics do for you sometimes :D Amazing project, all the best for the future
Amazing project. A tip from an experienced professional in this subject: epoxy resin seems amazing at waterproofing, but as the time passes it starts absorbing water and eventually will "sweat" water inside. We use the same glue used in fish aquarium (we call it silicone in my language, not sure in English) to this purpose, applying vacuum and releasing it before curing will make the glue fill gaps with excellence, and it'll last more than epoxy. We use it in the electrical connectors of our robots.
If you plan to do footage at 85m and for longer times why not use some form of usb over ethernet and POE on the ethernet cable as well to allow for power over the small tether and data over the same length
Wishing you great success wish I'd had youtube as a youth, thevthings I might have built ... but now long since retired , with failing eyesight and unsteady hands , still try to build drones and other flying things , as to boats I've built a few hydroplanes and of course the ORCA, saw jaws the night before leaving for some peaceful days at Daytona Florida....the water was fine until a small shark rubbed against me ...sun bathing is good and I decided to let the shark live in its world and to live in mine. Which might make a little sub a worth while project, the raspberry pi can be very powerful, but are Autonomous missions possible ? Breaking the tether ? Take care .
Normally I look at videos for ideas, but the amount of development work you have put into this really encourages me to support your efforts. I've been wanting to build a sub for awhile.
Won't the lubricant from the motor bearings get washed out? And also water will get trapped inside and corrode it. I would replace these with a sleeve bearing. And also it would be good to seal the motor stator
That's true, the corrosion might be a problem after some time. This is a lot of precise work however and we found that replacing the motors after 1 year is just easier. We used ceramic bearings before, as well.
Damn, pixhawk increases the overall price immensely, and it's very large, is it planned to maybe replace it with an FPV ESC and Flight Controller? Both smaller and a lot cheaper.
if you use an ethernet cable as the tether, you could use POE (power over ethernet) to beam up to 100W of power down to the drone to keep it running indefinitly and charge the batteries.... there are cheap and widely available parts for this
140 Dollars is a proud price. But for all your work and assembled knowledge put in: it's worth it! Great work and fair handling of the projects outcome! Really really well done! You've done great!
Of course you're using the Raspi! Love these things. The only limitation of use they seem to have is the users imagination! I got into these last December, just in time for the shortage and they are like heroin lol. I have 14 now! 4 zero 2W, 1 3A and the rest are 4b 1gb to 8gb! Using all but like 3 right now. Looks like a great sub. Some serious engineering put into them. Love seeing youngsters being productive and using thier brains!!!
HAVE YOU EVER TRIED FILLING ALL THE VOIDS WITH MINERAL OIL ... the only downside is that you will need to figure out the buoyancy, so it won't sink like a rock.
You said you would need a computer to drive the drone, then you pulled out a toy computer with a stupid apple logo on it... All my disrespect of Apple users aside, this is a really great build. I may use it in my Engineering classroom in the future.
Although I've not built a submarine, I have made a few waterproof electronics enclosures using a similar method. However, for the through connections, I've used long DIP headers which poke through the epoxy with enough sticking out both sides that a regular DuPont style connector can push on to the inside & outside. This gives a tidy and fully waterproof connector. Each pin will handle about 5A, so some of them need to be doubled up for higher currents. It's simple - but it really works.
Were you able to test under deep water? I'd worry the metal pins and the epoxy would expand and contract the same amounts and water would seep past the pins when the pressure is really high.
@@ddegn That is a consideration. We used EP42HT-3AO Epoxy which has a coefficient of thermal expansion similar to common metals such as steel or brass (the pins were Brass), with good bonding characteristics. If you just use any old glue you happen to have - yes, you are likely to have issues. The trsting was to IP69K (Automotive) - so wide temperature ranges. I don't remember the equivalent depth it was pressure tested to. This was only for a test rig. The final product used USCAR IP69K rated connectors.
hmmm.... Why not just fill the tubes (around electronics) with some type of insulating oil? After all if there are no compressible air filled cavities to be crushed by high pressure at depth, then high pressure depth won't crush em...
The acrylic tube for the main electronics housing seems... overly complicated. Since you ended up making all your seals with epoxy, and the fundamental problem is the layer lines of the plastic not being fully watertite themselves, wouldn't simply doing a brush coat of epoxy resin across the whole surface be much easier? Or even simply switching to a resin printer instead of a filament? given that they resin isn't fully cured by layer, every layer is hot coated onto the previous with 100% adhesion, so it should be perfectly water tight. Great engineering, but, it seems like you guys kinda went the long way around the problem.
Why do you need to run radio waves for the communications? If you want to communicate underground you cannot use HF radio waves either, BUT you can use LF radio waves instead.
Could have used a smaller RPi to conserve space and not have to deal with ports that you don't need. Would maybe too reduce power consumption as well, depending on what you're running of course.
I always wonder about making a underwater done that was pressure neutral and all the electronics are just in mineral oil, how deep could it go before the pressure would f* with the electronics its self?
I'm enrolled in the course and building the drone. It is an incredibly good course, and not only does it cover everything you need to know about building this drone in great detail, it also goes over thoroughly the other techniques used in the industry and what the other drones are doing. Truly if you want to build any kind of home-built ROV at all, you should take this course
Thank you so much Forrest!
neat build, its much better than cheap brushed motors! would be cool to see just how deep you could build an ROV to go.
Thanks Peter! Yeah, brushless is the way to go underwater. We'll hopefully try it in the worlds 2nd (I think) deepest pool, which is 45m. But some ocean expedition also would be nice
They are limited by the ethernet cable. maximum lenght is 100M, unless they use fiber optic
@@yvesinformel221 Kinda yes. the higher number the category of cable, the longer the transmission length.
@@yvesinformel221 is it not just limited to that length at its rated speeds? Couldn’t you just run a slower signal through it and get a longer length?
@@conorstewart2214 yes and no. After a certain point you have to worry about the voltage used. This needs to increase with length.
Let's say every meter the voltage drops 1V as an example. Using a 5V signal can already give problems at 3m as the voltage would reach the logic voltage threshold. This can lead to false signals or even no signals.
If they would go past the voltage of the ethernet adapter they would need a Amp in-between the laptop and the cord and the cord and the sub. This sub side is needed to prevent voltages high then the support voltage to enter the pi in this case
This is outsanding! Lots of really hard problems and unique solutions.
If you are wanting to do this with a much lower power draw.
This could quite easily be achieved with a single microcontroller like a esp or a pico w.
For the wires I think you should have made thin 3d printed wires spacers and then used two or three of them along with some solid core wires with no insulation and then soldered the wires for the outside so that the insulation went a little into the epoxy. For the inside you could have a connector partly in the epoxy. This way there would be more epoxy touching the wires direct and the spacers would make sure the wires don't touch. I think just one solder point isn't the best. But if it works it works. Also I wasn't really surprised that water got in. In fact I'm surprised it didn't happen with less depth. Anyway it's a very very nice looking build. Good work!
To prevent water leaking through the insulation you could also use magnet wire, it is coated with a thin layer of insulating material and is perfect for such purposes.
Absolutely awesome build and video! I'm very excited to save up and build this drone once I get my printer!
God (as a student industrial designer)I wish making stuff like this was my life.... Props to you man!
That is brilliant. I’d love to see if you could attach a mapping tool and try mapping a nearby body of water :)
Amazing underwater sub
I have been waiting my whole life for this video.
We feel the same. Thanks!
Maybe to add an extra bit of freedom to the drone, you can use some kind of bobber with a receiver on top and an ethernet cable going down to the drone. This way you can extend the range quite a bit.
This is really great engineering! That home-made thrust meter 🤣 So cool!
This is really cool! It would be interesting to see its ability to handle open ocean conditions!
An underwater drone has been on my todo list for a while, my only question is if it's already tethered why not tether power in to the drone?
It'd remove the need for batteries onboard.
Thanks a lot! So the longer tether we use is 100 meters (330 feet) long. The wires in there are 26awg. So the total resistance of each wire is at least 10 ohms (20 ohms for the wire going into the drone and back). And that's too much for our 6A power requirement if using 60 volts. Also, 60V in the water can be dangerous to wet skin.
Batteries are just cheap and effective.
We will maybe try doing that with a bigger ROV we plan building for wreck inspections, so we'll see
Beautiful design.
For the end cap you could have soldered the wires to a connector/connectors and then used the epoxy to seal the end cap, solder joins and hold the connector. One less set of solder joins to deal with. By adding guides for the connector to the end cap 3d print you could have "standardized" the connector positions and would so always know where the connections would be. Hope the idea could be helpful to you or anyone trying the project out.
A forward-thinking guy with a vintage classic Casio wristwatch.
I like it as much as this project :)
Keep up the great work guys! As a professional ROV Pilot/Tech, its great to see this type of stuff getting people interested in subsea exploration. The ability to build a cheap ROV that can hit depths beyond 30 meters will open up so many opportunities for RUclips creators who could never afford a seabotix or blueROV before. I’ll definitely be building one of these as soon as I get home again.
They problem with wires is that the water will still manage to get into the cable (the first end). 2-3 dives in a salty water and that’s done, all you gonna have will be insulation without the actual wire.
Cool, i always wanted to build underwater drone but I was too lazy 😅 will try your design! Thanks and Powodzenia 👍
Hello Wojtek, did you manage to try it ? Any backup for us whom are willing to take the leap?
holy shit! respect! what a incredible built!
This is very cool!
Nice working on that design guys. Keep it up!
dude you are absolutely amazing
The problem with the leakage is the multi-core wire. Your solution is great.. Another that should work well is to use single core heavy transformer wire. The enamel insulation should be completely water proof and by doubling up you can carry as much current as you want. The only difficulty is getting enough heat into it to solder it..
@Lucien shellac is easily soldered by aspirine tablets as flux. acetyl salicon acid. Normal heat is sufficient
@@albertmagician8613 The problem isn't with the soldering compounds its simply that the copper dissipates a lot of heat. A 50 watt iron can usually do it without too much trouble.
Amazing work congratulations
i'm hooked by your video guys. well explained!
Make a floating antenna for it so it can run radio frequency
Absolutly amazing,,,
Well done guys
Great video and an even better design!
If it is going to be tethered, why not power it from the above water portion, so you can have larger batteries or swap them easily?
Gratulacje, świetna robota :)
cool project
thanks man
Why didn’t you paint the inside of the drone? And possibly the outside also. That would stop water penetration with less work.
Flexible sealants come in spray cans also. Like the Flex Seal brand.
to jest niesamowite. weźmie udział w kursie i zbuduje kilka do wykorzystania tego lata na oceanie! Witam z Ameryki! kontynuuj świetną robotę!
Круто, нужно повторить, прикольно то что вода сочится между изоляцией и проводником, нюанс.
Good job on your design development guys. Question 1. How do you handle the heat generated by the batteries and ESCs inside the acrylic tube? I fly electric RC models and there is always heat generated by the ESCs and batteries. Question 2. Do you leave the batteries inside the acrylic tube when you charge them?
Im buiding something similar but my plan is to just use a ip67 enclosure and then fill it with mineral oil to eliminate any pressure differential.
How about using a optic fibre control line to reduce drag and tether weight for deeper dive performance?
Impressive!! Apart from the course price, could you give a rough estimation about the building cost of the drone? Thanks! :)
It's about $750 with shipping to the US. We have an entire BOM with links and prices of every component in the free sample of the course
Alright, thank you :)
Fajny
Have you thought about mineral oil filling for the electronics box and having zero pressure differential?
Doesn’t that cause rusting and falling apart inside? 3m novec tho
Yeah, that's actually really interesting and worth considering in an ROV design
Great job reverse engineering the gladius, however if you have the chance to build your own why not include sideways movement? Its the one major thing missing! For a future course build somthing like the bluerov and include a sensor and manipulator pack. I bet this one cost more than the mini but going pro like the bluerov a lot less.
Sideways motion will require at least 6 motors total, which means a complete shell redesign, but we really want to build something like this someday
Did you look at power-over-ethernet (POE) for power? [That way you don't need batteries on board the sub.]
For stock POE, it’s unfortunately too much power to handle. Could be done, but the stock battery still allows for about 1h of swim time - I think it’s enough.
👍
What design software is that?
LoL @ 6:15? Why not just remove the outer plastic and don't cut the cable. You can just very finely cut it. Saves a solder point.
Is it possible to incorporate Modem64 on your next project to make the ROV wireless.
using acoustic signals and pulses of light to send digital information through seawater, instead of using cable. (Wired ROVs someday will be a thing of the past).
@@12345sdfghful HAHAHA $2,300, I can see now why people use cables
@@dronefootage2778 that is actually cheap, anything related acoustic signals is expensive asf
@@12345sdfghful No kidding?! I figured it's one of those $10 piezzo drivers with a little bit of software. If that's cheap then I'm in the wrong business. I need to start making water modems.
If it's wired aniway why bother whit bateries? I'm certenlly missing something.
How about put the all stuff inside the submarine when you printing ?
100%waterproof ?
Hey guys!!, what degree are u studying?
My camera will be wireless ,my motors will be wireless = No cable leaks?
so yall dont got swim trunks in europe? just speedos and full suits?
rex orange county
Man - this is so awesome, dudes. You guys are awesome. I could only dream of having such talent. Great job fellas.
Very nice build!
Thank you so much Daniel!
@@CPSdrone Let me know if you guys would want to collaborate sometime! it would be cool to make a version of my snowcat that can drive on the bottom of the lake. Could basically just take your electronics tube and attach it to the snowcat platform
@@rctestflight Definitely! An rc bottom crawler would be really cool and we also haven't seen that a lot. I'll dm you on IG
Amazing video, one of the most impressive facts I learned was the smoothness of the propellers. I could have imagined around 30%, but whole 100% insane. What is what physics do for you sometimes :D
Amazing project, all the best for the future
This is amazing! I am a retired Math and Science teacher and you guy knocked the ball out of the park!!! Great Job!!!
Thank you so much!
Goodness you Young guys and gals are amazing and I am so proud of you all. My best wishes to you kids. You are our future. Thank You. 💕
Amazing project. A tip from an experienced professional in this subject: epoxy resin seems amazing at waterproofing, but as the time passes it starts absorbing water and eventually will "sweat" water inside. We use the same glue used in fish aquarium (we call it silicone in my language, not sure in English) to this purpose, applying vacuum and releasing it before curing will make the glue fill gaps with excellence, and it'll last more than epoxy. We use it in the electrical connectors of our robots.
If you plan to do footage at 85m and for longer times why not use some form of usb over ethernet and POE on the ethernet cable as well to allow for power over the small tether and data over the same length
Wishing you great success wish I'd had youtube as a youth, thevthings I might have built ... but now long since retired , with failing eyesight and unsteady hands , still try to build drones and other flying things , as to boats I've built a few hydroplanes and of course the ORCA, saw jaws the night before leaving for some peaceful days at Daytona Florida....the water was fine until a small shark rubbed against me ...sun bathing is good and I decided to let the shark live in its world and to live in mine. Which might make a little sub a worth while project, the raspberry pi can be very powerful, but are Autonomous missions possible ? Breaking the tether ? Take care .
I recommend resin printing for the parts that need to be waterproof. No need to seal with epoxy, and much better tolerance and surface finish.
Normally I look at videos for ideas, but the amount of development work you have put into this really encourages me to support your efforts. I've been wanting to build a sub for awhile.
Won't the lubricant from the motor bearings get washed out?
And also water will get trapped inside and corrode it.
I would replace these with a sleeve bearing.
And also it would be good to seal the motor stator
That's true, the corrosion might be a problem after some time. This is a lot of precise work however and we found that replacing the motors after 1 year is just easier. We used ceramic bearings before, as well.
85 meters eh? Nordstream pipeline was blown up at a depth of 80m.....just saying
True
rather then stripping the insulation which will result in corrosion. I think a better way is to use steel pins epoxied in the cap and solder to those.
Just curious: did you investigate resin printing to create waterproof cavities at all?
That's what we're using on the subs we're developing.
Damn, pixhawk increases the overall price immensely, and it's very large, is it planned to maybe replace it with an FPV ESC and Flight Controller? Both smaller and a lot cheaper.
if you use an ethernet cable as the tether, you could use POE (power over ethernet) to beam up to 100W of power down to the drone to keep it running indefinitly and charge the batteries.... there are cheap and widely available parts for this
Please sent a electronic diagram
140 Dollars is a proud price. But for all your work and assembled knowledge put in: it's worth it!
Great work and fair handling of the projects outcome! Really really well done! You've done great!
Of course you're using the Raspi! Love these things. The only limitation of use they seem to have is the users imagination! I got into these last December, just in time for the shortage and they are like heroin lol. I have 14 now! 4 zero 2W, 1 3A and the rest are 4b 1gb to 8gb! Using all but like 3 right now.
Looks like a great sub. Some serious engineering put into them. Love seeing youngsters being productive and using thier brains!!!
nasi ? :D
HAVE YOU EVER TRIED FILLING ALL THE VOIDS WITH MINERAL OIL ...
the only downside is that you will need to figure out the buoyancy, so it won't sink like a rock.
You said you would need a computer to drive the drone, then you pulled out a toy computer with a stupid apple logo on it...
All my disrespect of Apple users aside, this is a really great build. I may use it in my Engineering classroom in the future.
Hey, nice job. Impresive. I'm wondering if you are sharing files in some repo. I'm interested in the endcaps 3d design for another project.
Although I've not built a submarine, I have made a few waterproof electronics enclosures using a similar method. However, for the through connections, I've used long DIP headers which poke through the epoxy with enough sticking out both sides that a regular DuPont style connector can push on to the inside & outside. This gives a tidy and fully waterproof connector. Each pin will handle about 5A, so some of them need to be doubled up for higher currents. It's simple - but it really works.
Were you able to test under deep water? I'd worry the metal pins and the epoxy would expand and contract the same amounts and water would seep past the pins when the pressure is really high.
@@ddegn That is a consideration. We used EP42HT-3AO Epoxy which has a coefficient of thermal expansion similar to common metals such as steel or brass (the pins were Brass), with good bonding characteristics.
If you just use any old glue you happen to have - yes, you are likely to have issues.
The trsting was to IP69K (Automotive) - so wide temperature ranges. I don't remember the equivalent depth it was pressure tested to. This was only for a test rig. The final product used USCAR IP69K rated connectors.
@@Simon_Rafferty Wow, that's a lot of great info. Thank you for the reply.
hmmm....
Why not just fill the tubes (around electronics) with some type of insulating oil?
After all if there are no compressible air filled cavities to be crushed by high pressure at depth, then high pressure depth won't crush em...
The acrylic tube for the main electronics housing seems... overly complicated. Since you ended up making all your seals with epoxy, and the fundamental problem is the layer lines of the plastic not being fully watertite themselves, wouldn't simply doing a brush coat of epoxy resin across the whole surface be much easier? Or even simply switching to a resin printer instead of a filament? given that they resin isn't fully cured by layer, every layer is hot coated onto the previous with 100% adhesion, so it should be perfectly water tight.
Great engineering, but, it seems like you guys kinda went the long way around the problem.
What are implications of powering from end of tether - too unflexible heavy cable?
Why do you need to run radio waves for the communications? If you want to communicate underground you cannot use HF radio waves either, BUT you can use LF radio waves instead.
You should check out the Cave Rover Project if you haven't watched any of them yet.
Won't the air inside the hull will be compressed if we close the endcups from both sides? And then the endacp will pop out after some time.
Could have used a smaller RPi to conserve space and not have to deal with ports that you don't need. Would maybe too reduce power consumption as well, depending on what you're running of course.
Czekam aż zrobicie drukowanego w 3d dronka na gąsienicach do wyrywania chwastów w rzędach i międzyrzędach z AI rozpoznajcego chwasty. Pozdro :D
try water proofing you electrical component's would it had been better? .....conformal solution.
Have you guys tried using a resin 3D printer to print the propellers using a resin like like Siraya Tech Blu Strong & Precise High Resolution resin?
You can disassemble the brushless motors and coat the magnets and the copper coils in epoxy resin layer …
Could you explain the part where the motors work under water? I really don't understand how that can work?
That's huge. Really like the way it turned out. Great project 👍.
I always wonder about making a underwater done that was pressure neutral and all the electronics are just in mineral oil, how deep could it go before the pressure would f* with the electronics its self?
is it a good idea that the drone looses all power if the theter isnt plugged in correctly ?
Nautical terminology is not metric. You dive in fathoms or yards, and rarely in feet. You don't dive in meters.
Printing the Propellers and the Cover with sla-printeer should fix some Problems?
What if you fill the sub with oil so its incompressable? Than you should be able to dive as deep as you want. (:
Very nice but you should upload some footage shot somewhere close to 85m. At least 60+
Could you control it acoustically? Sound travels pretty far in water.
that epoxy gave me an idea for an hydraulics project I was working on.
Cant you get 100Watts over Power Over Ethernet why not just use that instead of batteries?