Have a 2000 v70 that would die out 2 out of 10 times as soon as I started it. Had to turn the key all the way off ever time to retry. Used your video to clean the etm and now it starts every time. Thx so much!!!
Hi Great video thanks. I'm not a mechanic so this job took me 1.5 hours to strip down. Easy enough. Definitely take the fan out .Done the job with a small socket set 13mm and 10mm sockets, a couple of torx and a big flat head screwdriver . Also carb cleaner and a toothbrush. Putting some new banjos on and conduit. Clean
absolutely fantastic tutorial video, totally revitalised the perf of my v70 t5 and v70 2.4t, chuffed to bits, well done that man, would of been lost without your instruction and i considered myself a pretty good fettler! thanks. need more people like you on here.
Thank you so much for posting a video that was not shaky, not spending 10 minutes telling us how great you are ( even though you are) and for making this easier for me, My Volvo was lurching forward when the brakes were applied and surging horribly at idle and while stopped, I followed your directions and hints , I never disconnected the electrical wire , just cleaned it once I had it unbolted, thanks again for a great learning experience The car runs great again !!!
These videos are such a help for the do it your selfer, I am not good at putting bolts back where they go in such tight spaces and where virtually nothing is visible. It best I go to a shop for this one.
Excellent write-up - essential step-by-step DIY for all Volvo owners! I did it last weekend and my 2001 S60 have stable idling at cold start without wawing RPM. Thx a lot, Sir!
Thank you very much for making this video. I have a volvo s60 2.5t 2006, I had unstable idling and sometimes the engine was shut down. I followed the same steps of your video and now it works perfect. again thank you very much!
Brilliant and helpful video and a fairly easy job to do. My 2000 V70 with 170K was idling so bad it was stalling. I followed this video and car is running great now. I found that removing the very front thinner plastic sump tray gave me access and a view from underneath to see right up into the ETM so could clean without removing.
I just performed this ETM cleaning based on your walkthrough and man what a difference. Thanks for the step by step instructions, I couldn't have done it without your help...
Two thumbs up on the video. Very helpful and gave me the confidence to try this. To Joe Zouz comment, I also forgot to wait 10 min before attempting to start. Mine had fluctuating RPM for about 3 min but then settled down just like in the video, much improved before the clean. I removed the radiator fan and encountered two problems to share. Passenger side hex bolt holding the fan against the radiator wouldn't unscrew. Found that the square nut on the back had broken free of its anchor. I used a Dremel to cut a wedge out of the plastic collar on the passenger side of the bolt so the fan could be slid towards the driver side slightly to remove. I was able to replace by sliding the collar behind the nut when I finished with no problems. I also would recommend removing the dipstick and taping over the hole before starting. I snapped off the plastic portion of the dipstick removing the fan. Now have to find a replacement. The job has made a huge difference in stabilizing idle and eliminating problems on acceleration. THANKS AGAIN!
My C70 Cabrio suffered something like this. Only, the engine felt down instead of revving up... Thanks to your video I dared to get the ETM out and clean it. Inlet tubing is a bit different in my car because it cools air in the radiator (easier to remove :) ) but other than that, close enough. She runs fine again! Thanks !
Great video, this helped me gain confidence to work on it myself. I didn't remove the throttle body just to avoid needing the gasket, but was able to clean it very well and also in the process discovered i had a bursted lower intercooler pipe that I will need to replace, so good thing I ended up working on it! Thanks again for the video it was very helpful
this video is amazing! !#savemoney ....I cleaned my throttle body on 2004 xc90 5 cylinder turbo today with help from this video ...thanks for taking the time to show the procedure...
Followed this tutorial for my 2007 Volvo S60. Very easy to follow, I didn't even take out the airbox and was still able to remove the throttle body completely. I cleaned the heck out of it to sparkling condition, but the car still has a stick when you rev it. It is however, driveable once again.
Replaced my ETM (and lower turbo hose) on 2004 Volvo s80 thanks to this viddy. Thanks! Car runs fantastic now. This fixed a host of problems that seem to come up with this problem: brake sensor light fail, misfire. My shop quoted $1100 to fix all. I did it for $300, with new Bosch ETM. Note: I simply unplugged connection at the ETM, not down in engine after digging under there for a while. Did not remove airbox or upper main turbo boost/cross pipe. ETM problem often comes from oil seeping out from worn bearings in turbo itself over time, per my mechanic.
Was this hard to do? I am not mechanically inclined at all but after tons of research I am fairly certain this is the issue. Mine is a 2004 S80 Turbo as well. Thanks in advance!
Luckily for the XC90 there is enough clearance that the airbox does not need to be removed, and neither does the fan. 1. Move the main crosspipe (I was able to get away with just removing the front connections and moving to the side. 2. Remove the clamp for the pipe under the ETM, and move the pipe forward and out of the way. 3. Reach under the manifold from the right (facing the engine from the front), unbolt the 4 bolts holding the ETM and pull it gently to the right and out. Unclip the connector and you're free. I had quite a bit of crud in mine at 130k mi. I did not replace the gasket but I'd recommend you do so. My car has been running quite a bit smoother since I cleaned my etm. I did not disconnect the battery, but probably a good idea to be safe.
Excellent! Anyone owning a Volvo may be able to perform this routine maintenance themselves and save themselves some money. I tried it myself and it is not that hard.
You can access the throttle body and clean it by removing the tube that goes down between the manifold and squirt cleaner in the tube .If it is not to bad that may be all that is needed .
THANK YOU for an excellent video! BTW On my 2007 XC70 I was able to remove the ETM without removing any of the air box and just dropped down the Turbo hose connecting to it without removing it. Thankfully the electrical connector the ETM on this model is on the ETM itself ,so I didn't have to go near the starter.
2007 xc70 also....and studying this video intensly! Good to know the electrical connect is on ETM! You still removed fan I assume, and did you buy a new gasket? I hope they are still easy to get.
+Greg Agnew me too! the positive side effect of this is that you can learn a lot about this part of the engine too, if you do this for the first time! and i will go 1 or 2 steps further and take out the injectors and the intake manifold! i think if you are already doww there - you should check the pcv system too....the good thing is you can leave the etm on the manifold, when you take the whole thing out! my v70 is about 17 years old now and i will replace the intake manifold gasket too...maybe i´ll put the spacer from ipd between it....there´s a spacer for the etm too
Well spotted on the mileage! I had intended to carry out the repair the day after the opening clip was made, weather and work commitments pushed the repair day about 2 weeks further back hence the mileage increase. Good eyes that man.
Thank you very much. My wife’s 05’ S60 (with 240xxx miles) was running very rough during idle and would die. This solved my problem! Should hopefully get another 200k miles out of her;)
brilliant video….worked SO well…but would recommend replacing the cir clip at the ETM to hose connection…spent too long trying to tighten up the old one..the tip about the starter clamp was especially useful STAR!!!
Where the exhaust leaves the engine, the turbo will be bolted to the exhaust, two large plastic/rubber pipes will be attached to it - the intake pipe, and the boost pipe. On Volvo located at the back of the engine bay, close to the bulkhead/firewall.
GREETINGS TX, TANX FOR THE KNOWLEDGE U SHARED IN THE ETM VIDEO ABOVE. IT REALLY HELP AS A FIRST TIME "DO IT MYSELF" IT WAS UR VIDEO I WATCHED AND FOLLOWED CAREFULLY AND IT WAS VERY HELPFULL, I HAVE A S80 2002 VOLVO SO ANY OTHER INFORMATION YOU HAVE ON SAID CAR KINDLY SHARE. THE NEXT TASK FOR ME IS TO SERVICE MY HAND & WHEEL BRAKES. SERVICING THE ABS BCM - BREAK CONTROL MODULE ANY INFO U HAVE ON THIS WILL BE HELP FULL. BIG UP ... RESPECTFULLY "GR8 GRANDMASTER"
Hi, Gasket was straight from dealer, less than £5 from memory. I didn't apply any silicone at all, applying a very thin film of assembly grease or oil may help the gasket fully seat - VERY thin film, but used none, no air leaks (to my knowledge!). Good luck.
@jfv65 Whenever replacing ETM new or used, programming by dealer level tool is required. Having your unit repaired and returned shouldn't need any extra work except the 10 minute ignition on period (which is not compulsory but is recommended). Always new gasket though.
excellent video. greatly appreciated. I am just about ready to this on my xc70. 2001 with 213 000 on it. great car.. thank you very much for great pictures and explanation.
Thanks for the great instructions! A question that I have is about whether cleaning the position sensor inside the ETM is also an opportunity to undertake. ???
Worst case scenario the mechanical motor operating the butterfly value is worn out, so you either have to buy a new throttle body for 700 euros or rip one from a junk yard and have volvo calibrate (if you get one from a car with the aame engine it MIGHT work without calibration) it for you. What I did was buy an upgraded throttle body that replaces the mechanical motor for an electric motor for 300, and now I don't have to worry about it again. Also there is a 125 euro upgrade kit you can buy from BJPracing that you can install yourself but then it's a 50/50 if you have to go to volvo and recalibrate it for about 100. Hope this helps anyone who didn't solve their problem by cleaning the ETM.
It's important to put a rag over the turbo inlet to stop anything from dropping in there. It can damage the vanes and it can be damn difficult to get it out.
My 01 XC has the same issues. This is my next task. I'm also getting an electrical Problem. Have replaced the alternator (with a used one) and battery. Still there
Easier job on the non turbo 2.4. The throttle body doesn't need to came out, just disconnect the air hose, flip the valve and clean inside out once in a while so the idle doesn't drop All 2001-2002 ETM were faulty and very costly. Volvo put a different brand 2003 on but it still gets dirty.
I have just replaced the MAS on my 2001 V70. It no runs perfectly. Before it was hesitating when pulling away and under load, and throttle pedal felt a bit unresponsive. I had tried cleaning the MAS with MAF spray cleaner, but it is not easy has most of it is enclosed. The slightest dirt or oil on the sensor will cause it to send a weak mixture message to the brain.
I repair these as a hobby. I've had more than 30 of them land on my doorstep. 9 out of 10 used ETMs will work on your car AS LONG AS they are from the same model, transmission and aspiration type. You can't use a 5 speed auto ETM on a 4 speed and vice versa. One exception is a '99V70/S70 non turbo 4 speed auto can use a S80T6 ETM; go figure.
I've got a 2006 that's idling rough and stalling, throwing MAF code, but MAF was replaced, and plugs, and still stalling/rough idle, I'm going after this next, is cleaning it enough?
The TPS x2 are within the black end caps on the ETM body, normally only one needs replacing and the opposite one is wired to the new good one also. There are guides on a couple of the volvo forums on how to replace, quite a fiddly task and no guarantee of success.
excellent video! weather permiting i will tackle this job together with cleaning/renewal of the crank ventilation system. suppose the ETM was replaced by a new one, would it need new programming?? Or is it plug & play??
I have a 02 Volvo v70 2.4t with a bad ETM and I was quoted about $900 to fix it. Ive seen used ETMs on eBay that have been rebuilt, can I just unhook this old one and plug the new one in and be okay? Or do I need to have someone sync it with the computer and put it in??? Another question is should I try cleaning it first before replacing it?
Perfect video! I have a question on a different topic though:Do you know a way to find the right cam position, without the cogwheels in place? I lost the marks i made on it when i removed the top of the engineThanks
My mechanic recommended to get my throttle body rebuild to have the car drive like brand new again instead of just cleaning it , is it a better option ?
There was no old gasket in there, so somebody had definitely been there before me, either to try and remedy this fault, or as part of re-assembling the intake during another repair. It's quite possible it was contributing to the unstable idle, the throttle plate was also pretty dirty though, not worth leaving it on the car for cleaning in my opinion, gasket is cheap also.
Great video. Very clear instructions. My S60 2.0t keeps giving me codes P2126 and P2127 so I'm guessing a new throttle body is needed. Do you know if a new one would need to be programmed at all? And wouldn't access be easier from below the car?
2006 XC70 stalls on startup and idles rough cold, threw codes for MAF, a shop replaced it, didn't help, I'm trying to fix it for a friend now. Is this the same on the xc70? I've changed plugs, and even though it needed them, didn't fix the rough idle/stall
have you ever had low oil pressure light come on ?? if so, how did you fix it. I have replaced all turbo oil seals & gaskets, oil trap, cleaned out oil pan and replaced all oil seals in there, dip stick seal, new oil trap, new oil filter, better thicker 5w-30w oil. also I get codes P1171 & P1181 have replaced MAF sensor with bosch one twice,(thought maybe I got a bad one). replaced plugs, almost every vaccum line, air filter, maniford gasket, ran fuel cleaner, new gas and oil caps, new main turbo tube with heated sensor, new front O2 sensors, and rear exhaust gaskets. I am at a loss, can figure out whats wrong, any help would be appreciated
An oil pressure light on indicates rod/crank and or cam bearings worn out. Continuing to run it this way is a recipe for disaster. If you're very very lucky you might get away with replacing bearings without tearing the engine down. Sometimes it is just one rod bearing out of clearance. If the light goes out when you increase rpms that's good. If it's on all the time STOP and don't even crank it until it's figured out.
light goes out when you barely accelerate. I actually removed 1 1/2 qts. of oil and added Lucus oil stabilizer and it seem to fix the issue. well, I wouldn't say fixed the issue, but no more visual problem is there with oil pressure. I think that's what previous owner did, because I found honey like stuff next to the oil cap. when I changed my oil, this oil pressure issue started. I had no idea. now that part seems good. cant seem to figure out whats cause the codes. I might add some stuff to the fuel next. Lucus makes a special product for that too. maybe injectors not working correctly.
P1171 as "Long Term Fuel Trim (Upper Limit)" shows that You have too lean mixture. For this there can be many reasons. First what normally comes in mind is too less fuel. As it is non direct injection there is not much reasons for that. Need to check out fuel pressure in fuel rail and normally thats it. Injectors normally works very long life. Another reason can be turbocharger - it gives too much air in. For this there can be many reasons - bypass valve in turbo is not working, pressure sensors for turbo is not working, air measurement sensor is not working, bla bla bla. Then is also some stupit mistakes possible - some inlet air pipe is lose or with holes or cracks. I would recommend start with turbo (Take it off and out from top of the motor and check out how it look likes). Shaft must have a little movement, everything must turn nice and smooth, no sound by turning. Check out also bypass valve and vacuum activator for it. then be sure that all pipes ar tight and in secure places. Run ETM realign operation, check out air filter.
I haven't had the problem, so far. Only bought 07 S60 T5 in August '14 40,000 miles, now almost 48,000. I have seen all tubes had been replaced for my car, and this ETM must have been part of the problem once. I guess, before I ever get to 100,000 miles (160 000 kms), I will have had some issues. Though I always will change oil at 12,000 and the filter, and the air filter, I guess my 2zzge (Toyota) (previous car) was much more reliable.
why is your check engine light on? @25.35 my car (v70 1998/modelyear 1999) is running very good, but the check engine light is on too and this for about one and a half year now....
Check engine light can be for so many different things. I had a check engine light come on just because I had changed my fuel cap to a locking one, as some scumbags were stealing my petrol. The cap was not a Volvo original OEM one, and the ECM didn't like it an sensed a vacuum build up in the tank. Now I have to periodically release the cap and reseal it, or just put the locking one on overnight.
ok so ive installed an aftermarket hks bov and after reving it up enough for the bov to release pressure the car stall whil returning to idle if i rev it up half way it tries to stall almost like the car shuts off for a second any tips or help would be appreciated
I have 2001 S60 T5. My car idles really rough (worst than this video) on cold start only, after it warms up it idles ok. I notice the throotle is kinda lagging all the time as well. could it be the problem?
what got me was 145,000 miles at start of video then 147,000 at the end of the video where did the 2000 miles go did he have problems did he take it to a shop or did he drive it for awhile
My s80 to turbo is leaking water and can't find the spot. Seems to be dripping from the middle above the oil pan. Maybe about around the engine area in the back of the engine perhaps. I could see drips but not sure where to start. Usually it starts to drip more when I turn it on. Can anyone help me so I can have a idea of where to start looking more into.
Thank you very much for taking your time and throwing a video for us to see. I was thinking of cleaning my throttle body just in case and this video is perfect and just in time. Did you order the gasket from the dealer? How much is it? And was it just the gasket or you applied silicone?
Hi ... Great video bye the way . I did exactly what u did toke the EMT out and cleaned it and put it back , but did not leave it the ignition on for 10 minutes , did it after I started the car and didn't work ... So I got another one from a Scrap yard and installed it and this time I left the ignition on for 10 minutes and Yurika it worked :) .. So was my EMT defaulted or I should have did it right from the start ? Thanks again really helped me .
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Have a 2000 v70 that would die out 2 out of 10 times as soon as I started it. Had to turn the key all the way off ever time to retry. Used your video to clean the etm and now it starts every time. Thx so much!!!
Hi Great video thanks. I'm not a mechanic so this job took me 1.5 hours to strip down. Easy enough. Definitely take the fan out .Done the job with a small socket set 13mm and 10mm sockets, a couple of torx and a big flat head screwdriver . Also carb cleaner and a toothbrush. Putting some new banjos on and conduit. Clean
absolutely fantastic tutorial video, totally revitalised the perf of my v70 t5 and v70 2.4t, chuffed to bits, well done that man, would of been lost without your instruction and i considered myself a pretty good fettler! thanks. need more people like you on here.
Thank you so much for posting a video that was not shaky, not spending 10 minutes telling us how great you are ( even though you are) and for making this easier for me, My Volvo was lurching forward when the brakes were applied and surging horribly at idle and while stopped, I followed your directions and hints , I never disconnected the electrical wire , just cleaned it once I had it unbolted, thanks again for a great learning experience The car runs great again !!!
Exact same thing with my 2007 right now, this comment gives me hope I'll solve the problem.
These videos are such a help for the do it your selfer, I am not good at putting bolts back where they go in such tight spaces and where virtually nothing is visible. It best I go to a shop for this one.
Excellent write-up - essential step-by-step DIY for all Volvo owners! I did it last weekend and my 2001 S60 have stable idling at cold start without wawing RPM. Thx a lot, Sir!
Thank you very much for making this video. I have a volvo s60 2.5t 2006, I had unstable idling and sometimes the engine was shut down. I followed the same steps of your video and now it works perfect.
again thank you very much!
Brilliant and helpful video and a fairly easy job to do. My 2000 V70 with 170K was idling so bad it was stalling. I followed this video and car is running great now. I found that removing the very front thinner plastic sump tray gave me access and a view from underneath to see right up into the ETM so could clean without removing.
I just performed this ETM cleaning based on your walkthrough and man what a difference. Thanks for the step by step instructions, I couldn't have done it without your help...
what codes did you have ?
Extremely useful! Really appreciate the effort to show us a close up view down there in that cramped area with a single hand.
Two thumbs up on the video. Very helpful and gave me the confidence to try this.
To Joe Zouz comment, I also forgot to wait 10 min before attempting to start. Mine had fluctuating RPM for about 3 min but then settled down just like in the video, much improved before the clean. I removed the radiator fan and encountered two problems to share. Passenger side hex bolt holding the fan against the radiator wouldn't unscrew. Found that the square nut on the back had broken free of its anchor. I used a Dremel to cut a wedge out of the plastic collar on the passenger side of the bolt so the fan could be slid towards the driver side slightly to remove. I was able to replace by sliding the collar behind the nut when I finished with no problems. I also would recommend removing the dipstick and taping over the hole before starting. I snapped off the plastic portion of the dipstick removing the fan. Now have to find a replacement.
The job has made a huge difference in stabilizing idle and eliminating problems on acceleration. THANKS AGAIN!
Yep, just snapped the plastic top of the dipstick completely off today. 😥
I can’t believe you filmed this. Good show. Thank you.
My C70 Cabrio suffered something like this. Only, the engine felt down instead of revving up... Thanks to your video I dared to get the ETM out and clean it. Inlet tubing is a bit different in my car because it cools air in the radiator (easier to remove :) ) but other than that, close enough.
She runs fine again!
Thanks !
Great video, this helped me gain confidence to work on it myself. I didn't remove the throttle body just to avoid needing the gasket, but was able to clean it very well and also in the process discovered i had a bursted lower intercooler pipe that I will need to replace, so good thing I ended up working on it!
Thanks again for the video it was very helpful
this video is amazing! !#savemoney ....I cleaned my throttle body on 2004 xc90 5 cylinder turbo today with help from this video ...thanks for taking the time to show the procedure...
THANK YOU THANK YOU a thousand times THANK YOU! Very thorough and well produced.
I believe the ETM failure issue on these vehicles is a recall item. good video...well done, and thank you for the help
+soylent green it is .... only for 10 years ... therefore we are way too late for that
Followed this tutorial for my 2007 Volvo S60. Very easy to follow, I didn't even take out the airbox and was still able to remove the throttle body completely. I cleaned the heck out of it to sparkling condition, but the car still has a stick when you rev it. It is however, driveable once again.
throttle position sensor
Replaced my ETM (and lower turbo hose) on 2004 Volvo s80 thanks to this viddy. Thanks! Car runs fantastic now. This fixed a host of problems that seem to come up with this problem: brake sensor light fail, misfire. My shop quoted $1100 to fix all. I did it for $300, with new Bosch ETM. Note: I simply unplugged connection at the ETM, not down in engine after digging under there for a while. Did not remove airbox or upper main turbo boost/cross pipe. ETM problem often comes from oil seeping out from worn bearings in turbo itself over time, per my mechanic.
Was this hard to do? I am not mechanically inclined at all but after tons of research I am fairly certain this is the issue. Mine is a 2004 S80 Turbo as well. Thanks in advance!
Luckily for the XC90 there is enough clearance that the airbox does not need to be removed, and neither does the fan. 1. Move the main crosspipe (I was able to get away with just removing the front connections and moving to the side. 2. Remove the clamp for the pipe under the ETM, and move the pipe forward and out of the way. 3. Reach under the manifold from the right (facing the engine from the front), unbolt the 4 bolts holding the ETM and pull it gently to the right and out. Unclip the connector and you're free. I had quite a bit of crud in mine at 130k mi. I did not replace the gasket but I'd recommend you do so.
My car has been running quite a bit smoother since I cleaned my etm. I did not disconnect the battery, but probably a good idea to be safe.
Great video, still helping people in 2018.
Still helping people in 2020!
And 2022
Excellent! Anyone owning a Volvo may be able to perform this routine maintenance themselves and save themselves some money. I tried it myself and it is not that hard.
You can access the throttle body and clean it by removing the tube that goes down between the manifold and squirt cleaner in the tube .If it is not to bad that may be all that is needed .
THANK YOU for an excellent video! BTW On my 2007 XC70 I was able to remove the ETM without removing any of the air box and just dropped down the Turbo hose connecting to it without removing it. Thankfully the electrical connector the ETM on this model is on the ETM itself ,so I didn't have to go near the starter.
2007 xc70 also....and studying this video intensly! Good to know the electrical connect is on ETM! You still removed fan I assume, and did you buy a new gasket? I hope they are still easy to get.
Definitely glad I found this video, as I'll be tackling it on my vehicle
Kanon bra video gjorde precis som han beskriver i videon och nu funkar min bil klockrent igen, tusen tack!!!
I'll add this to the to-do's this winter for sure. Great video and can't wait to dive in to the ETM....
+Greg Agnew me too! the positive side effect of this is that you can learn a lot about this part of the engine too, if you do this for the first time! and i will go 1 or 2 steps further and take out the injectors and the intake manifold! i think if you are already doww there - you should check the pcv system too....the good thing is you can leave the etm on the manifold, when you take the whole thing out! my v70 is about 17 years old now and i will replace the intake manifold gasket too...maybe i´ll put the spacer from ipd between it....there´s a spacer for the etm too
you dont know how long ive been waiting for this video thank you!!!
Well spotted on the mileage! I had intended to carry out the repair the day after the opening clip was made, weather and work commitments pushed the repair day about 2 weeks further back hence the mileage increase. Good eyes that man.
Thank you very much. My wife’s 05’ S60 (with 240xxx miles) was running very rough during idle and would die. This solved my problem! Should hopefully get another 200k miles out of her;)
this is exactly the problem I'm looking to fix! fingers crossed.
this video has helped a lot going to pick up a 2002 v70 t5 on Monday with this problem this will help me fix it thankyou
Best amateur video I have seen on youtube. Away to get carb cleaner and try it on my C70.
brilliant video….worked SO well…but would recommend replacing the cir clip at the ETM to hose connection…spent too long trying to tighten up the old one..the tip about the starter clamp was especially useful STAR!!!
Where the exhaust leaves the engine, the turbo will be bolted to the exhaust, two large plastic/rubber pipes will be attached to it - the intake pipe, and the boost pipe. On Volvo located at the back of the engine bay, close to the bulkhead/firewall.
I had mine refurbished, and the guide that came with it said to have it on for one minute
Many thanks for the video, was more than useful! Followed you directions and did the job with ease on my daughters S 60. Runs like new almost.
did u have codes set ?
just completed according to video. what a huge difference!!!
GREETINGS TX, TANX FOR THE KNOWLEDGE U SHARED IN THE ETM VIDEO ABOVE. IT REALLY HELP AS A FIRST TIME "DO IT MYSELF" IT WAS UR VIDEO I WATCHED AND FOLLOWED CAREFULLY AND IT WAS VERY HELPFULL, I HAVE A S80 2002 VOLVO SO ANY OTHER INFORMATION YOU HAVE ON SAID CAR KINDLY SHARE.
THE NEXT TASK FOR ME IS TO SERVICE MY HAND & WHEEL BRAKES. SERVICING THE ABS BCM - BREAK CONTROL MODULE ANY INFO U HAVE ON THIS WILL BE HELP FULL.
BIG UP ...
RESPECTFULLY "GR8 GRANDMASTER"
hi thanks great video helped me to restore good idling and general running of my volvo v70 t5. thank you
Super video, thorough and easy to understand, best vid for cooling fan removal!
Hi, Gasket was straight from dealer, less than £5 from memory. I didn't apply any silicone at all, applying a very thin film of assembly grease or oil may help the gasket fully seat - VERY thin film, but used none, no air leaks (to my knowledge!).
Good luck.
@jfv65 Whenever replacing ETM new or used, programming by dealer level tool is required. Having your unit repaired and returned shouldn't need any extra work except the 10 minute ignition on period (which is not compulsory but is recommended). Always new gasket though.
Big Thank's this make it more easy for me to make my car working again.
Excellent video. This is on my list of to do's for my US S80.
I'm about to do this job. Great video Thanks
great stuff and easy to follow step by step. thanks for your good work.
Thank you so much for your helpful video! saves me a grand at the shop
excellent video. greatly appreciated. I am just about ready to this on my xc70. 2001 with 213 000 on it. great car.. thank you very much for great pictures and explanation.
Thanks for the great instructions! A question that I have is about whether cleaning the position sensor inside the ETM is also an opportunity to undertake. ???
This will save me $1,600 . thanks. Those mechanics do not like to put back old parts. !!!
Well done! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Off to the wrecking yard!
Great Video. Thank you. Looks very similar to the engine bay of an 2005 Volvo XC90 T5.
Worst case scenario the mechanical motor operating the butterfly value is worn out, so you either have to buy a new throttle body for 700 euros or rip one from a junk yard and have volvo calibrate (if you get one from a car with the aame engine it MIGHT work without calibration) it for you.
What I did was buy an upgraded throttle body that replaces the mechanical motor for an electric motor for 300, and now I don't have to worry about it again.
Also there is a 125 euro upgrade kit you can buy from BJPracing that you can install yourself but then it's a 50/50 if you have to go to volvo and recalibrate it for about 100.
Hope this helps anyone who didn't solve their problem by cleaning the ETM.
It's important to put a rag over the turbo inlet to stop anything from dropping in there. It can damage the vanes and it can be damn difficult to get it out.
Thank you TXCVOLVO1. Great info and video!
My 01 XC has the same issues. This is my next task. I'm also getting an electrical Problem. Have replaced the alternator (with a used one) and battery. Still there
Easier job on the non turbo 2.4. The throttle body doesn't need to came out, just disconnect the air hose, flip the valve and clean inside out once in a while so the idle doesn't drop
All 2001-2002 ETM were faulty and very costly. Volvo put a different brand 2003 on but it still gets dirty.
I have just replaced the MAS on my 2001 V70. It no runs perfectly. Before it was hesitating when pulling away and under load, and throttle pedal felt a bit unresponsive. I had tried cleaning the MAS with MAF spray cleaner, but it is not easy has most of it is enclosed. The slightest dirt or oil on the sensor will cause it to send a weak mixture message to the brain.
I repair these as a hobby. I've had more than 30 of them land on my doorstep. 9 out of 10 used ETMs will work on your car AS LONG AS they are from the same model, transmission and aspiration type. You can't use a 5 speed auto ETM on a 4 speed and vice versa. One exception is a '99V70/S70 non turbo 4 speed auto can use a S80T6 ETM; go figure.
I've got a 2006 that's idling rough and stalling, throwing MAF code, but MAF was replaced, and plugs, and still stalling/rough idle, I'm going after this next, is cleaning it enough?
Very nicely done ... Thank you .Very helpful.
Jay Palmyra NY
The TPS x2 are within the black end caps on the ETM body, normally only one needs replacing and the opposite one is wired to the new good one also. There are guides on a couple of the volvo forums on how to replace, quite a fiddly task and no guarantee of success.
excellent video! weather permiting i will tackle this job together with cleaning/renewal of the crank ventilation system.
suppose the ETM was replaced by a new one, would it need new programming?? Or is it plug & play??
Never done a T6, but there may be some different plastics, air ducting design, but should be mostly the same set-up.
Amazing video
Massive thanks 🙏🏻
That’s big job
I have a 02 Volvo v70 2.4t with a bad ETM and I was quoted about $900 to fix it. Ive seen used ETMs on eBay that have been rebuilt, can I just unhook this old one and plug the new one in and be okay? Or do I need to have someone sync it with the computer and put it in??? Another question is should I try cleaning it first before replacing it?
I never saw the idle air control valve...where is it located?
Perfect video! I have a question on a different topic though:Do you know a way to find the right cam position, without the cogwheels in place? I lost the marks i made on it when i removed the top of the engineThanks
My mechanic recommended to get my throttle body rebuild to have the car drive like brand new again instead of just cleaning it , is it a better option ?
There was no old gasket in there, so somebody had definitely been there before me, either to try and remedy this fault, or as part of re-assembling the intake during another repair. It's quite possible it was contributing to the unstable idle, the throttle plate was also pretty dirty though, not worth leaving it on the car for cleaning in my opinion, gasket is cheap also.
Great video. Very clear instructions. My S60 2.0t keeps giving me codes P2126 and P2127 so I'm guessing a new throttle body is needed. Do you know if a new one would need to be programmed at all?
And wouldn't access be easier from below the car?
thanks for the video,i have a Volvo s60 2001 have no error code ,after change the transmission its take second to start ,please help.
thanks for the video. I've got an xc90 with a 2.5t. anyone know if the procedure changes at all for the xc90?
I'm going to try it on an XC70 I'm fixing for a friend, when I looked at it this morning, it looks identical to the one in this video
Was there a gasket under that plastic gunk? Do you think that gasket repair someone had done had something to do with the revs being alwry?
2006 XC70 stalls on startup and idles rough cold, threw codes for MAF, a shop replaced it, didn't help, I'm trying to fix it for a friend now. Is this the same on the xc70? I've changed plugs, and even though it needed them, didn't fix the rough idle/stall
Very well made video! Thank you
Es posible que el enfriamiento del turbo balla ala celdas de enfriamiento aceite del motor
Have past the 100,000 miles, no issues so far...
GREAT VIDEO! Ordering gasket right now.
Those bodys give trouble with the fingers on the senser. But they can be modified to a non contact one. ..on the s60
thanks alot for great instrction and details!!!
have you ever had low oil pressure light come on ?? if so, how did you fix it. I have replaced all turbo oil seals & gaskets, oil trap, cleaned out oil pan and replaced all oil seals in there, dip stick seal, new oil trap, new oil filter, better thicker 5w-30w oil. also I get codes P1171 & P1181 have replaced MAF sensor with bosch one twice,(thought maybe I got a bad one). replaced plugs, almost every vaccum line, air filter, maniford gasket, ran fuel cleaner, new gas and oil caps, new main turbo tube with heated sensor, new front O2 sensors, and rear exhaust gaskets. I am at a loss, can figure out whats wrong, any help would be appreciated
An oil pressure light on indicates rod/crank and or cam bearings worn out. Continuing to run it this way is a recipe for disaster. If you're very very lucky you might get away with replacing bearings without tearing the engine down. Sometimes it is just one rod bearing out of clearance. If the light goes out when you increase rpms that's good. If it's on all the time STOP and don't even crank it until it's figured out.
light goes out when you barely accelerate. I actually removed 1 1/2 qts. of oil and added Lucus oil stabilizer and it seem to fix the issue.
well, I wouldn't say fixed the issue, but no more visual problem is there with oil pressure. I think that's what previous owner did, because I found honey like stuff next to the oil cap. when I changed my oil, this oil pressure issue started. I had no idea. now that part seems good. cant seem to figure out whats cause the codes. I might add some stuff to the fuel next. Lucus makes a special product for that too. maybe injectors not working correctly.
P1171 as "Long Term Fuel Trim (Upper Limit)" shows that You have too lean mixture. For this there can be many reasons. First what normally comes in mind is too less fuel. As it is non direct injection there is not much reasons for that. Need to check out fuel pressure in fuel rail and normally thats it. Injectors normally works very long life. Another reason can be turbocharger - it gives too much air in. For this there can be many reasons - bypass valve in turbo is not working, pressure sensors for turbo is not working, air measurement sensor is not working, bla bla bla. Then is also some stupit mistakes possible - some inlet air pipe is lose or with holes or cracks. I would recommend start with turbo (Take it off and out from top of the motor and check out how it look likes). Shaft must have a little movement, everything must turn nice and smooth, no sound by turning. Check out also bypass valve and vacuum activator for it. then be sure that all pipes ar tight and in secure places. Run ETM realign operation, check out air filter.
Raul Romo i will check i have the same problem... very helpful!!
I haven't had the problem, so far. Only bought 07 S60 T5 in August '14 40,000 miles, now almost 48,000. I have seen all tubes had been replaced for my car, and this ETM must have been part of the problem once. I guess, before I ever get to 100,000 miles (160 000 kms), I will have had some issues. Though I always will change oil at 12,000 and the filter, and the air filter, I guess my 2zzge (Toyota) (previous car) was much more reliable.
why is your check engine light on? @25.35 my car (v70 1998/modelyear 1999) is running very good, but the check engine light is on too and this for about one and a half year now....
Check engine light can be for so many different things. I had a check engine light come on just because I had changed my fuel cap to a locking one, as some scumbags were stealing my petrol. The cap was not a Volvo original OEM one, and the ECM didn't like it an sensed a vacuum build up in the tank. Now I have to periodically release the cap and reseal it, or just put the locking one on overnight.
great video thank you will try doing the cleaning of the emt
Excellent video, top notch, thanks
Hi I've got an 2001 2.4 none turbo where's my idle control motor or iac is found I've had a 98 Volvo
Hello my friend, I have a problem with a 2002 s60 I do not turbo it and I turn it off the light of chek engine turns off the engine
ok so ive installed an aftermarket hks bov and after reving it up enough for the bov to release pressure the car stall whil returning to idle if i rev it up half way it tries to stall almost like the car shuts off for a second any tips or help would be appreciated
I have 2001 S60 T5. My car idles really rough (worst than this video) on cold start only, after it warms up it idles ok. I notice the throotle is kinda lagging all the time as well. could it be the problem?
I have the same problem, a lot of lagging when driving. How did you fix it?
How does the etm get so dirty? Is it leaking oil from the turbo?
Tenho um e deu defeito, não acelera fica na marcha lenta, o que será?
what got me was 145,000 miles at start of video then 147,000 at the end of the video where did the 2000 miles go did he have problems did he take it to a shop or did he drive it for awhile
Brilliant stuff, my xc70 AWD -01 thanks you kindly Sir. And obviously me as well. :)
My s80 to turbo is leaking water and can't find the spot. Seems to be dripping from the middle above the oil pan. Maybe about around the engine area in the back of the engine perhaps. I could see drips but not sure where to start. Usually it starts to drip more when I turn it on. Can anyone help me so I can have a idea of where to start looking more into.
Thank you very much for taking your time and throwing a video for us to see. I was thinking of cleaning my throttle body just in case and this video is perfect and just in time.
Did you order the gasket from the dealer? How much is it? And was it just the gasket or you applied silicone?
Electronic Throttle Monitor?
nice one mate from the future 2022
Hi ... Great video bye the way . I did exactly what u did toke the EMT out and cleaned it and put it back , but did not leave it the ignition on for 10 minutes , did it after I started the car and didn't work ... So I got another one from a Scrap yard and installed it and this time I left the ignition on for 10 minutes and Yurika it worked :) .. So was my EMT defaulted or I should have did it right from the start ? Thanks again really helped me .
Will this problem also cause my car not to accelerate?
It is a removable contact on the throttle body on my 2005
Remove the throttle body first then the contact.
this is the same exact thing for a 2001 s80 t6?