Cannot beat Kroil penetrating oil . Best stuff out there bar none!! I use it also in my gasoline engine powered motorcycles & log splitter & lawn mower & weed whacker fuel tanks . An ounce or two on a regular basis keeps gum & varnish build almost non -existent. Truly is amazing stuff. I’ve not had to remove my LB-7 manifolds or turbo yet (🤞) , but in the event I ever need to you can bet yer Ass I’ll be soaking all those fasteners a couple days prior to removal of anything. Thanks for posting this one 👍
Never heard of kroil but after seeing them up pipe bolts come loose like that I’ll be grabbing a can for my up pipe job haha ✊🏽 I’ve been so nervous to do mine but this video definitely made me feel up for the job. Thanks
At first I was excited bolts came off that easy. Then I noticed you were sponsored. Common bro. Don't lie be honest. Never trust sponsored content. As these people will lie on their reviews. Only review I actually trust is project farm
Love the video man. Super detailed and I think everyone attempting this job will participate that. On a side note I might just run out and get a can of that kroil 😂
Kroil is great stuff, I have been using it for 30+ years, wish I would have done the multi day soak with my LB7. I took a long breaker bar and custom heat bent it to get the exhaust bolts on the back side of the motor broken loose.
I used a 24” breaker bar from Northern tool and bought the 1/2” drive ratcheting head for it. Then all you need is a 12 point 1/2” deep well 12mm socket. Piece of cake. Only problem is I went with a Rudy’s up pipe and the bellows is junk apparently
Because the drivers side doesn’t have any weak points, and isn’t necessary to be done unless pushing high horse power. It is also pretty much the same process; just a little easier to get at and work on.
man i clicked your damn link for the up pipe and ordered it etc and it was for the driver side guess i shoulda double checked but i assumed it was the passenger side one cause thats the one you changed=/
Good video. Kroil is the absolute best stuff. Funny story- Buddy of mine a few years ago bought a new BR700 blower . His 12 yr old son was trying to help dad do some yard work and dumped straight gas in it. Less than two weeks old and locked that thing up solid. I took the plug out sprayed Kroil in it let it sit for a few hours. It freed up the motor after a couple tries and it runs great to this day.
I’m just going to add this for the people that think they will lube it and it’ll work, with the uppipe being welded it shows this has already been off before
You would be correct, but that was years ago and in Wisconsin it rusts up real quick 👍🏼 I’ve taken plenty of them off this same way. With the right pressure you can get a good grip on the bolts.
The up pipe being welded it’s been off before then right? Might have something to do with how easy it the bolts were. I’ve heard kroil is great though. Thanks for the video 👍
I love kroil, in the oilfield we call it “ instrument man in a can”. IMO, we are duped into thinking the down pipe restricts flow when under ? psi from the output of the exhaust. Yes the down pipe has a flat spot but not squished, step on a garden hose, reduced flow but not pressure. I have not seen anyone ever do a comparison on a dyno and if they did the difference would be negligible. Again my opinion. What a great video, I would drive from red deer Alberta Canada just to shake your hand.
What about the drivers side any video on that side? That small pipe that comes down the back of the engine on the drivers side its wraps down around the up pipe close to the manifold, is that a coolant pipe? Or oil? It's on a 2010 gmc duramax
I’m scared to do mine but this video made me feel better knowing lg problem is I don’t have 3 days to prep I work 6 days a week and my trucks back home so I’m like nooooo
Hey man. Thanks for your video and I love aero kroll. Stuff is amazing. Anyways. Just bought a 12' lml with 212k on it. Super clean truck running great. I see the previous owner deleted the DEF system and I'm just curious if they removed the egr. Im just wondering what I should be looking at to see if the work was done. Let me know what you think when you have a chance.
Appreciate that! Thank you for the support 🙏 Long reply below ⤵️ So there are two types of “weight reduction” for the LML. 1. That is the EGR only, which you would see some shiny pipes there, or simple blocker plates which will be harder to find because they just slide behind the gasket. If you take your compressor off you should be able too see the slide in plates. 2. The DEF & EGR it is extremely rare to have the DEF system fall off without the EGR system falling off with it. Or like stated above at least blocked off and “computered” out. Possible yes likely no. If you want an 100% answer to your question you will have to take the 4 bolts out for the compressor move it out of the way, and look at the gaskets for the egr system easiest one to see is top right up by the right of the turbo just below the hot side. It’ll look like 2 gaskets are there. That plate is a very thin piece of metal. Best case scenario is you remove the compressor, and see a fancy shiny plate with no egr there at all. If you don’t have the fancy charge pipes more than likely in this scenario they did a basic removal with a basic charge pipe 👍 I hope this helps.
Just got a stock LBZ I want to delete EGR what’s best way, I’ve seen that the plates can make the bellows on the up pipe crack. Any experience with this since I don’t trust the bolts to not snap when changing up pipe
They came out so easy because that up pipe was out before. Egr delete, part cut off the pipe and welded shut. Do the the drivers side pipe now and see how that goes.
@@DIYDiesel That’s cool. Thanks for the quick response. I’ll find another light 😂 Curious do you know of on the PPE exhaust manifolds with matching up pipes will the PPE bracket work with a MBRP downpipe?
@@Blue_Collar_Hunter So I would not put that bolt back one with the MBRP. Allot of people have had those fail overtime in that location from it breaking off, and or rusting away. It is a weak point on that style down pipe. The only ones I would reconnect are stainless steel ones. Where they are strong enough to handle the vibration from the road, and expansion/contraction of heat.
Great video, very informative. Just an fyi, the proper word you may be looking for is orient ,( oh-ree-ehnt), not orientate( oh-re-en-tate). Or could substitute the word position. Keep up the good work!
Cannot beat Kroil penetrating oil . Best stuff out there bar none!! I use it also in my gasoline engine powered motorcycles & log splitter & lawn mower & weed whacker fuel tanks . An ounce or two on a regular basis keeps gum & varnish build almost non -existent. Truly is amazing stuff. I’ve not had to remove my LB-7 manifolds or turbo yet (🤞) , but in the event I ever need to you can bet yer Ass I’ll be soaking all those fasteners a couple days prior to removal of anything. Thanks for posting this one 👍
Never heard of kroil but after seeing them up pipe bolts come loose like that I’ll be grabbing a can for my up pipe job haha ✊🏽 I’ve been so nervous to do mine but this video definitely made me feel up for the job. Thanks
No problem just get good back pressure on them, and soak them for awhile 👍
At first I was excited bolts came off that easy. Then I noticed you were sponsored. Common bro. Don't lie be honest. Never trust sponsored content. As these people will lie on their reviews. Only review I actually trust is project farm
You CAN'T use a 6 point socket on a 12 point head. 😆😆
Love the video man. Super detailed and I think everyone attempting this job will participate that. On a side note I might just run out and get a can of that kroil 😂
Thank you! 🤣 Amazon will get it to you fast lol
I’ve had more luck with pb blaster and it’s a lot cheaper then kroil
Kroil is great stuff, I have been using it for 30+ years, wish I would have done the multi day soak with my LB7. I took a long breaker bar and custom heat bent it to get the exhaust bolts on the back side of the motor broken loose.
I used a 24” breaker bar from Northern tool and bought the 1/2” drive ratcheting head for it. Then all you need is a 12 point 1/2” deep well 12mm socket.
Piece of cake.
Only problem is I went with a Rudy’s up pipe and the bellows is junk apparently
So im confused! I clicked on the link for the up pipe, but it says driver side. Am i missing something?
Great video, but there is now way those bolts came off that easy just no way.
Thank you! And trust me I was just as shocked as you! Legit what you see is how it came
There is nothing that can compete with kroil, just give it time. It will never damage the base metal.
50/50 acotone and automatic transmission fluid beats anything in a can .
Why does no one show how they get the fking drivers side in
Because the drivers side doesn’t have any weak points, and isn’t necessary to be done unless pushing high horse power. It is also pretty much the same process; just a little easier to get at and work on.
man i clicked your damn link for the up pipe and ordered it etc and it was for the driver side guess i shoulda double checked but i assumed it was the passenger side one cause thats the one you changed=/
Good video. Kroil is the absolute best stuff. Funny story- Buddy of mine a few years ago bought a new BR700 blower . His 12 yr old son was trying to help dad do some yard work and dumped straight gas in it. Less than two weeks old and locked that thing up solid. I took the plug out sprayed Kroil in it let it sit for a few hours. It freed up the motor after a couple tries and it runs great to this day.
Wow that’s awesome! I’ve herd of guys tell me they have unsized motors with it soaking it for a few days. Saved them thousands of dollars
When I works as a sprinklerfitter all they used was Kroil and man I learned quick it’s the best out there by far
It’s amazing stuff that’s for sure!
Kroil is an excellent product, we use tons in the refinery I work in.
Work smarter, not harder.
I use it everyday haven’t found anything that works better yet.
I’m just going to add this for the people that think they will lube it and it’ll work, with the uppipe being welded it shows this has already been off before
You would be correct, but that was years ago and in Wisconsin it rusts up real quick 👍🏼 I’ve taken plenty of them off this same way. With the right pressure you can get a good grip on the bolts.
@@DIYDiesel did you have a vibration rattle or just a whine?
@@DatS1ck_LML just a whine
@@DIYDiesel like mud tires on pavement type whine?
@@DatS1ck_LML oh jeeze idk lol not like a tire squealing
Me watching this video after I just got done breaking all 6 bolts : fuck I need some kroil
You end up pulling your turbo then?
Hey brother which Kroil product would you recommend for my 3 day soaking?
The Kroil with silicone is the better of the two
@@DIYDiesel thank you, wish me luck on my install 😂😅
The up pipe being welded it’s been off before then right? Might have something to do with how easy it the bolts were. I’ve heard kroil is great though. Thanks for the video 👍
You are correct 👍, but with being Wisconsin and it has been a few years trust me they where not fun definitely made me pucker still lol 😂
I love kroil, in the oilfield we call it “ instrument man in a can”. IMO, we are duped into thinking the down pipe restricts flow when under ? psi from the output of the exhaust. Yes the down pipe has a flat spot but not squished, step on a garden hose, reduced flow but not pressure. I have not seen anyone ever do a comparison on a dyno and if they did the difference would be negligible. Again my opinion. What a great video, I would drive from red deer Alberta Canada just to shake your hand.
🤘🏼
What about the drivers side any video on that side? That small pipe that comes down the back of the engine on the drivers side its wraps down around the up pipe close to the manifold, is that a coolant pipe? Or oil? It's on a 2010 gmc duramax
I do not, but have that planned real soon here 🤘🏼
Passenger side up pipe cracked AGAIN... hasn't even been a year wtf is going on? Maybe bigger issue idk but I'm doing it myself this time
Really? That’s something I haven’t herd much of unfortunately
Is your welded , LB7 or did use a block off plate?
The reason it was so easy someone had it off before
You would be correct 👍🏼 that was also years ago. In the rust belt it still seizes up very quickly.
What do you do at the back of the egr? I have a blocker plate currently but with this pipe I will lose that y leg...does the egr just remain open?
I have the same question. Did you figure out anything? Will it be okay to just put a blocker plate on it? Or is it good open?
You absolutely do not leave it open. Blocker plate
I’m scared to do mine but this video made me feel better knowing lg problem is I don’t have 3 days to prep I work 6 days a week and my trucks back home so I’m like nooooo
Hey man. Thanks for your video and I love aero kroll. Stuff is amazing. Anyways. Just bought a 12' lml with 212k on it. Super clean truck running great. I see the previous owner deleted the DEF system and I'm just curious if they removed the egr. Im just wondering what I should be looking at to see if the work was done. Let me know what you think when you have a chance.
Appreciate that! Thank you for the support 🙏
Long reply below ⤵️
So there are two types of “weight reduction” for the LML.
1. That is the EGR only, which you would see some shiny pipes there, or simple blocker plates which will be harder to find because they just slide behind the gasket. If you take your compressor off you should be able too see the slide in plates.
2. The DEF & EGR it is extremely rare to have the DEF system fall off without the EGR system falling off with it. Or like stated above at least blocked off and “computered” out. Possible yes likely no.
If you want an 100% answer to your question you will have to take the 4 bolts out for the compressor move it out of the way, and look at the gaskets for the egr system easiest one to see is top right up by the right of the turbo just below the hot side. It’ll look like 2 gaskets are there. That plate is a very thin piece of metal.
Best case scenario is you remove the compressor, and see a fancy shiny plate with no egr there at all. If you don’t have the fancy charge pipes more than likely in this scenario they did a basic removal with a basic charge pipe 👍
I hope this helps.
Just got a stock LBZ I want to delete EGR what’s best way, I’ve seen that the plates can make the bellows on the up pipe crack. Any experience with this since I don’t trust the bolts to not snap when changing up pipe
Kroil 👍 and tighten from below 🏁 Great
Got it! Thanks Brother D 🤠
👍 appreciate it!
They came out so easy because that up pipe was out before. Egr delete, part cut off the pipe and welded shut. Do the the drivers side pipe now and see how that goes.
Settle down bevis, lay off the coke, just show the repair
What kind of magnetic light is that you use in the wheel well?
Just an Amazon special magnet work light. I don’t think they sell them anymore.
@@DIYDiesel That’s cool. Thanks for the quick response. I’ll find another light 😂
Curious do you know of on the PPE exhaust manifolds with matching up pipes will the PPE bracket work with a MBRP downpipe?
@@Blue_Collar_Hunter So I would not put that bolt back one with the MBRP. Allot of people have had those fail overtime in that location from it breaking off, and or rusting away. It is a weak point on that style down pipe. The only ones I would reconnect are stainless steel ones. Where they are strong enough to handle the vibration from the road, and expansion/contraction of heat.
Orien-tate.. ugh that drives me crazy
Kroil 😍
Right!
Mine came with gaskets and new hardware.
Nice! Lucky man!
Your gasket placement helped me out. Thanks!
@@stephenfurr8769 awesome! Glad I could help thanks for the support! 🙌
Great video, very informative. Just an fyi, the proper word you may be looking for is orient ,( oh-ree-ehnt), not orientate( oh-re-en-tate). Or could substitute the word position. Keep up the good work!