And what's the advantage of the complexity. Fuel economy? Nope. Power output? Nope. Emissions? Yep. The primary advantage of the engine design is when it comes to emissions.
Although the Coyote and 3UR are similar the coyote engines are even harder to service because the phasers are spring loaded. This is easier than sticking a mirror under a oil pump looking for a tiny dot through a 1in by 1in window on a hemi. Hemis actually have to be turned over 94 times to verify timing
Just wondering why it was set yp with crank off TDC for chain install 🤔 maybe it's so its easier to set up and see the crank mark.that way of the crank pulled.back at no1 cylinder TDC everything will alighn
This is my first time of seeing how to set timing for Toyota tundra I really like your teachings, but the camera 🎥📷 is a bit shaking, please I have subscribed your Chanel, please come out with more videos,
Since you only showed the driver side, I have a question about the passenger side. Do you use the double line on the exhaust phaser or do you still use the single line?
@@lukereed5889 I tried to re-time the engine using the old components just to make sure I could do it right once the new components arrived and I used the single line on both phasers. The engine turned easily and nothing hit. But the block turned out to have a slight crack so I never did get to hear it run. So all I can tell you is everything seemed good using the single line.
I know this video is old, but I am hoping to get a response from someone. I did this job, fired it up and it gave me a P0348 code which is sensor A. Changed out all the cam sensors and it is still coming up, it is timed correctly. Looked at all the wires going to the connectors and they're all good. There was one thing I forgot to do and that was put the ground cable wire back onto the valve cover when I started it, could this mess things up on the ECU? I've heard the crankshaft sensor can cause this code to pop up but I have not had any codes come up on this truck with 100K miles on it until now. Do I need to clear the codes while the truck is running? I get the DTC's via my bullydog since it is supercharged and can clear them through that. Any help would be much appreciated!
The ground not being connected won't cause anything like this. This code is not related to timing either, that's more of a crank/cam correlation code. Your code is typical. The voltage received at the ecm from the sensor is higher than spec. You have either: A defective sensor (doesn't matter if it's new) A problem in the 3 wires between the sensor and the ecm An issue with the circuit inside the ecm I would have to pull service info to really coach you step by step but this will get you in the right direction. Looking at wires doesn't test them. My recommendation would be to check the sensor for correct voltage (terminals at the sensor) and terminals at the ECU. As an example, one of the wires should be good ground. If the sensor is not getting a good ground it will send a high voltage reading back to the ecm and set this code. You are one the wrong path checking timing and stuff. Focus on the voltages related to the sensor. That's how the dtc logic works.
After turning the crank 28 times I can only get the main chains to get back to their original marks. I can not get the smaller number 2 chains to line back up properly on the yellow marks. Is it imperative that they match back to where I put them or are they the hunting type?
@@paulkelley86 I’ve turned it 112 times now manually which is 4 times and they still haven’t lined back up. Do you know how long it should take? Or should I just reset them?
@@iadgreen28 if you turn it forward a little more do the small chains eventually line up even though the big chains will no longer be on the marks? If yes, you are good. The small ones don't really jump anyway, the big ones can jump because no oil pressure to the tensioners.
I don't know if you reply to old videos but I'm confused on bank 2, did you do the chain and spin the crank and the did bank one? Or is the procedure the same as bank 1
It is just about the same, you may have to reposition the crank slightly to slide the chain on when the "flats" from one cam sprocket are in the place they allow. Too tight with the round cam sprocket close to the sprocket teeth, chain won't fit onto the sprocket, just move a little till the flat spot opens up enough room and put second chain on. Marks are the same.
@@paulkelley86 thanks for the reply! I'm just curious I had all my marks lined up I didn't set it to tdc, but lined all the marks on both sides and got p0300, p03001, p0303, p0305, p0307 so all of bank 1 was misfiring then I got crank/cam correlation code bank 1 sensor b tore it all down retimined it got marks in correct alignment and didn't start so I'm confused at this point
@@PVOPROJECTS sometimes when you put the vvt cam sprocket on you can have the dowel pin miss the hole. See if that hole is oblonged or if the cam dowel pin punched a new hole in the sprocket.
@@paulkelley86 I forgot to mention that I put new camphasers on the intake side and it's not lined up with the dot of the timing does that affect anything
@@PVOPROJECTS it will only line up with the dot once in a whole bunch of revolutions. If it wasn't lined up when you initially did the timing, yeah that's a big issue, but understand once you turn the engine the marks won't align again for many many revolutions. Just make sure they are 100% good initially. Also the marks for the small chains are different from one side to the other, I'm a little fuzzy on memory but one bank may be to one dot and the other bank to 2 dots or something similar. You do have access to service information or manual right?
I do, but only in person at Cypress College. It takes a lot of my time so I have little time left for the RUclips videos and web based training. Maybe some day. :-)
Both banks were timed with cylinder 1 at TDC, correct? Is timing chain 1 (going to crankshaft) on bank 2 already aligned correctly? What is the correct alignment of all chains and cams on both sides if doing both banks at the same time? Thanks in advance
Endangered Entertainment it is not necessarily on cyl 1 tdc. With interference engines they don't do that so much any more since if you were to turn the cam, the valves would contact the piston Just make sure your small chains marks are lined up when you install the cam gears. Then line up the First big chain like shown, the colored links to the marks on the crank and cam. As long as your marks are lined up, you are good, and you can move the crank to other positions, as long as the mark still aligns with the colored link. Then do the same with the last big chain, in fact, you will have to move it around to get it on. Don't focus on TDC, just the marks to the colored links, that's all that matters. You can verify it stays on time but it is a pain, you have to rotate the engine many many times to line up again (hunting gear ratio) and the chains want to jump a lot since the chain tensioner is pumped up with engine oil pressure, which you won't have yet. A zip tie from the chain guide to the shoe will prevent the chains from jumping, but it is still a pain and don't forget to remove it. I would recommend just doing the marks and double checking they are all lined up :-).
Paul Kelley Awesome! Thank you for the info, sir. Could you provide any info as to the degrees I would align the cams on bank 2 before installing the timing chains? In the vid you say on bank 1 the pin on the top cam is at 45 and the pin on the bottom is at 3. Is there any preferred way to get them exactly to spec? Is the cam alignment on bank 2 virtually mirrored from bank 1 (i.e. to the same but degree but backwards)? Is correct cam alignment critical? My email is wesleyfyork@gmail.com if you have a diagram available that you'd be willing to share. I'm putting my 5.7 off of a 2007 Tundra back together after replacing a broken valve spring and want to ensure that the timing is to spec before completing the process. Thank you again
Endangered Entertainment setting the cams up just helps get the sprockets (actually vvt controllers really) in the right spot. If you are close it will be ok since you move them around till they drop on the pin. If they are off you will just have to move the cam more till the sprocket drops on. I find holding the sprockets in place and turning the cam works best. It is drastically different from a timing belt, where cam and crank alignment marks to the block are so specific, this type isn't as much about cam and crank position to the block, but the distance between each other. I am making myself a reminder to email you, I don't get on my computer till the evening. I think you have enough to make it happen if you can't wait, but I will email you a document later anyway. P.s. they are not really mirrored, just at a different point in the 4 stroke cycle.
Paul Kelley Excellent! Thank you again, sir. All of the info provided has been very helpful. I won't be working on it again until tomorrow morning so that would be just fine.
27 ft.lbs or 36 Nm THEN an additional 90 degrees THEN and additional 90 degrees. They are torque to yield bolts and there is a specific sequence. I will make a video eventually but not ready to yet.
@@michaeldeleon7492 if you do the work, and you are good at it... why are you looking up "how to videos" on youtube. Shouldn't you be referencing service information?
WTF! $25,000 to get a degree from what appears to be a former student! All while half the class is talking about who knows what during the instructions! No way I would go to this "school"
A: everyone is a former student, no one is born with any knowledge B: $25k is not even remotely in the ballpark of the cost of a community college. C: would you care to share a better example?
Junk......My 1999 Jeep Cherokee Xj has almost 350,000 miles and is just like new....All these Toyota's are gay...Timing belt's and chain's and Weak frame's and suspension's.... Definitely not a Jeep.
Toyota frames we're rusting do to Dana holding Corp. leaving out a corrosion inhibitor during the manufacturing process of these frames. Toyota outsourced these frames to an American company because their trucks are built here in the United States. It's more cost-effective to do so due to the cost of shipping thousands of frames to the United States. If they were made in Japan they wouldn't have rusted out. When Toyota was done with the recall they hit Dana holding Corp. with a multi-million dollar bill.
@@youtubecomments5951 definitely can be a big problem. thankfully they did a recall to correct it. Unfortunately for Toyota Dana tried to pull a fast one and leave the corrosion inhibitor out of the processing. I'm sure it probably could have saved them thousands of dollars. Guessing they were hoping to get away with it.
Спорт
I love my 5.7 Tundra but this sure makes the LS Chevy seem amazingly simple.
And what's the advantage of the complexity. Fuel economy? Nope. Power output? Nope. Emissions? Yep. The primary advantage of the engine design is when it comes to emissions.
@@hochhaul how would this effect emissions?
Although the Coyote and 3UR are similar the coyote engines are even harder to service because the phasers are spring loaded. This is easier than sticking a mirror under a oil pump looking for a tiny dot through a 1in by 1in window on a hemi. Hemis actually have to be turned over 94 times to verify timing
thank you very much for the video
Похож на мотор Patrol Y62. Только там две цепи. Приходилось менять на них цепи по отзывной кампании. По началу долго, потом за 12 часов менял.
Look at all those moving parts!!
Wow I like this job
Great Video as always!
Love to meet you guys up there
Хх
good training video
100% helpful 💕💕💕💕
Thanks engineer
Good information
Nice job
car AZIM engine
I am happy thank you so much
the industry calls those controllers, "phasers". fyi sir thank you!
veri good
Awesome vid. I hope you can make one to reseal cam tower.
That's their bread and butter job, not giving that one up lol.
Sir please help me am a mechanical engineer but I won't to buy some parts please help me am from Enugu state
Thankyou sir
Man I miss my 22re
Good job
That's nice
thanks
Thank you sir
thankyou
💪
Just wondering why it was set yp with crank off TDC for chain install 🤔 maybe it's so its easier to set up and see the crank mark.that way of the crank pulled.back at no1 cylinder TDC everything will alighn
Good
Good sir
This is my first time of seeing how to set timing for Toyota tundra I really like your teachings, but the camera 🎥📷 is a bit shaking, please I have subscribed your Chanel, please come out with more videos,
Merci
This gave me a heart attack 7:53 dude was in reverse then just gunned it back in
Holy shit. Complicated. Hopefully my 5.7 engine never needs to have this done LOL
I wouldn't bet on it lol.
@Dale Sharpe I call bs though I use amsoil with every scheduled oil change. My tensioner just started going bad
@Dale Sharpe LOL sure you won't.... I wouldn't bet on it though lol. Sure are a ton of guys in the forums needing timing chain jobs before 200k...
I like
Oh yes
is there any special trick to installing the timing cover? I can't seem to get the oil pump sprocket to slide all the way onto the crankshaft.
It's a tough job. The flat parts of the crankshaft have to line up to the oil pump drive gear inside the cover.
okay
أين يقع مارش التدوير في اللند كروزر 2012
Since you only showed the driver side, I have a question about the passenger side. Do you use the double line on the exhaust phaser or do you still use the single line?
drive.google.com/file/d/148eKXIbQdEV2zXTIWIUXrhrCjkGcmoDF/view?usp=drivesdk
Did you find out how? Im currently trying to figure it out.
@@lukereed5889 I tried to re-time the engine using the old components just to make sure I could do it right once the new components arrived and I used the single line on both phasers. The engine turned easily and nothing hit. But the block turned out to have a slight crack so I never did get to hear it run. So all I can tell you is everything seemed good using the single line.
@@JoseDiaz-bk9mh Thank you so much
@@lukereed5889 check that link to the service manual document that I put on Google drive.
I know this video is old, but I am hoping to get a response from someone. I did this job, fired it up and it gave me a P0348 code which is sensor A. Changed out all the cam sensors and it is still coming up, it is timed correctly. Looked at all the wires going to the connectors and they're all good. There was one thing I forgot to do and that was put the ground cable wire back onto the valve cover when I started it, could this mess things up on the ECU? I've heard the crankshaft sensor can cause this code to pop up but I have not had any codes come up on this truck with 100K miles on it until now. Do I need to clear the codes while the truck is running? I get the DTC's via my bullydog since it is supercharged and can clear them through that. Any help would be much appreciated!
The ground not being connected won't cause anything like this.
This code is not related to timing either, that's more of a crank/cam correlation code.
Your code is typical. The voltage received at the ecm from the sensor is higher than spec. You have either:
A defective sensor (doesn't matter if it's new)
A problem in the 3 wires between the sensor and the ecm
An issue with the circuit inside the ecm
I would have to pull service info to really coach you step by step but this will get you in the right direction. Looking at wires doesn't test them. My recommendation would be to check the sensor for correct voltage (terminals at the sensor) and terminals at the ECU. As an example, one of the wires should be good ground. If the sensor is not getting a good ground it will send a high voltage reading back to the ecm and set this code.
You are one the wrong path checking timing and stuff. Focus on the voltages related to the sensor. That's how the dtc logic works.
Link where buy the all Kit???
Chechelove
After turning the crank 28 times I can only get the main chains to get back to their original marks. I can not get the smaller number 2 chains to line back up properly on the yellow marks. Is it imperative that they match back to where I put them or are they the hunting type?
That is ok. As long as the small chains line up eventually, they don't all necessarily line up on the 28th time, just the main ones. You got it.
@@paulkelley86 I’ve turned it 112 times now manually which is 4 times and they still haven’t lined back up. Do you know how long it should take? Or should I just reset them?
@@iadgreen28 if you turn it forward a little more do the small chains eventually line up even though the big chains will no longer be on the marks? If yes, you are good. The small ones don't really jump anyway, the big ones can jump because no oil pressure to the tensioners.
I don't know if you reply to old videos but I'm confused on bank 2, did you do the chain and spin the crank and the did bank one? Or is the procedure the same as bank 1
It is just about the same, you may have to reposition the crank slightly to slide the chain on when the "flats" from one cam sprocket are in the place they allow. Too tight with the round cam sprocket close to the sprocket teeth, chain won't fit onto the sprocket, just move a little till the flat spot opens up enough room and put second chain on. Marks are the same.
@@paulkelley86 thanks for the reply! I'm just curious I had all my marks lined up I didn't set it to tdc, but lined all the marks on both sides and got p0300, p03001, p0303, p0305, p0307 so all of bank 1 was misfiring then I got crank/cam correlation code bank 1 sensor b tore it all down retimined it got marks in correct alignment and didn't start so I'm confused at this point
@@PVOPROJECTS sometimes when you put the vvt cam sprocket on you can have the dowel pin miss the hole. See if that hole is oblonged or if the cam dowel pin punched a new hole in the sprocket.
@@paulkelley86 I forgot to mention that I put new camphasers on the intake side and it's not lined up with the dot of the timing does that affect anything
@@PVOPROJECTS it will only line up with the dot once in a whole bunch of revolutions. If it wasn't lined up when you initially did the timing, yeah that's a big issue, but understand once you turn the engine the marks won't align again for many many revolutions. Just make sure they are 100% good initially.
Also the marks for the small chains are different from one side to the other, I'm a little fuzzy on memory but one bank may be to one dot and the other bank to 2 dots or something similar. You do have access to service information or manual right?
Le reper de la chaîne gauche vilbrequin
Do you offer training. I can see you in a training centre. Training in transmission rebuild and hybrid cars repair
I do, but only in person at Cypress College. It takes a lot of my time so I have little time left for the RUclips videos and web based training. Maybe some day. :-)
@@paulkelley86 1
Can someone please help me know know how to set timing of 1ur engine
I miss pushrod engines
GM still throwin em out!
@5:27, did that lady have a mustache?
Hey you leave my man Augustine alone! I am jealous of all that hair : -)
How to check timing chain Nissan sun 1.8
Both banks were timed with cylinder 1 at TDC, correct? Is timing chain 1 (going to crankshaft) on bank 2 already aligned correctly? What is the correct alignment of all chains and cams on both sides if doing both banks at the same time? Thanks in advance
Endangered Entertainment it is not necessarily on cyl 1 tdc. With interference engines they don't do that so much any more since if you were to turn the cam, the valves would contact the piston
Just make sure your small chains marks are lined up when you install the cam gears.
Then line up the First big chain like shown, the colored links to the marks on the crank and cam. As long as your marks are lined up, you are good, and you can move the crank to other positions, as long as the mark still aligns with the colored link.
Then do the same with the last big chain, in fact, you will have to move it around to get it on.
Don't focus on TDC, just the marks to the colored links, that's all that matters.
You can verify it stays on time but it is a pain, you have to rotate the engine many many times to line up again (hunting gear ratio) and the chains want to jump a lot since the chain tensioner is pumped up with engine oil pressure, which you won't have yet. A zip tie from the chain guide to the shoe will prevent the chains from jumping, but it is still a pain and don't forget to remove it.
I would recommend just doing the marks and double checking they are all lined up :-).
Paul Kelley Awesome! Thank you for the info, sir. Could you provide any info as to the degrees I would align the cams on bank 2 before installing the timing chains? In the vid you say on bank 1 the pin on the top cam is at 45 and the pin on the bottom is at 3. Is there any preferred way to get them exactly to spec? Is the cam alignment on bank 2 virtually mirrored from bank 1 (i.e. to the same but degree but backwards)? Is correct cam alignment critical? My email is wesleyfyork@gmail.com if you have a diagram available that you'd be willing to share. I'm putting my 5.7 off of a 2007 Tundra back together after replacing a broken valve spring and want to ensure that the timing is to spec before completing the process. Thank you again
Endangered Entertainment setting the cams up just helps get the sprockets (actually vvt controllers really) in the right spot. If you are close it will be ok since you move them around till they drop on the pin. If they are off you will just have to move the cam more till the sprocket drops on. I find holding the sprockets in place and turning the cam works best.
It is drastically different from a timing belt, where cam and crank alignment marks to the block are so specific, this type isn't as much about cam and crank position to the block, but the distance between each other.
I am making myself a reminder to email you, I don't get on my computer till the evening. I think you have enough to make it happen if you can't wait, but I will email you a document later anyway.
P.s. they are not really mirrored, just at a different point in the 4 stroke cycle.
Paul Kelley Excellent! Thank you again, sir. All of the info provided has been very helpful. I won't be working on it again until tomorrow morning so that would be just fine.
Just a reminder to send that diagram on over if you can. Thank you, sir...wesleyfyork@gmail.com
Pls bmw 750 n63 engine all timing marks propal plz
I don't have access to that engine, sorry. I don't work on much of anything German.
I wanna learn
Are these engines bigger than the ls hemi and 5.0 engines. In physical size and weight?
Actually about the same size as a 5.0 coyote
very good you can help me
M.rizwan .u
Pls i want to lern more
A las cuantas millas se recomienda cambiar ?
No maintenance
Hi
Montage de moteur Toyota toundra v8 1ur-fe 5.7
Hello sir how are you
I need that PDF file.
good day I am a mechanic please help me for the camshaft timing thank you
Do you have such courses? What do I have to do to sign up?
What city/state are you in?
Que torke lleva una cabeza de 5.7 para tundra please
27 ft.lbs or 36 Nm THEN an additional 90 degrees THEN and additional 90 degrees. They are torque to yield bolts and there is a specific sequence. I will make a video eventually but not ready to yet.
You guys are fucking awesome!!! is there a way we can donate to your channel??? i dont like getting shit for free
I make a little money on advertising, we are good. I appreciate the non entitlement attitude though.
I missed right bank ?
Por favor da para produzir em Português?
bonsoir et pour l'autre culasse c'est quoi la procedure SVP
I am technician in hyundai automobiles
Chand Alam eum
Chand Alam old for you buddy
*
مساء الخير
ليش يتخربط صدر المحرك كل مره نجيب اول الصدر نجهز سياره بيتخربط
Excellent video. Camera shake was brutal - get a cheap gimbal and your vids will be smooth and clear. Thanks!
gearbox reported for 1rz minbus
Jeep
Tacoma05
Toyota.tacoma.2005
Kia
these are a pain in the ass.. and i keep getting stuck doing this because of that cursed cam tower. oh well.
those who can do
those who can't teach
So what do you do?
I do the work
Cause I'm good at what I'm doing
And from your video
I recommend you should go back to school and learn the proper way defore you teach
@@michaeldeleon7492 if you do the work, and you are good at it... why are you looking up "how to videos" on youtube. Shouldn't you be referencing service information?
WTF! $25,000 to get a degree from what appears to be a former student! All while half the class is talking about who knows what during the instructions! No way I would go to this "school"
A: everyone is a former student, no one is born with any knowledge
B: $25k is not even remotely in the ballpark of the cost of a community college.
C: would you care to share a better example?
Junk......My 1999 Jeep Cherokee Xj has almost 350,000 miles and is just like new....All these Toyota's are gay...Timing belt's and chain's and Weak frame's and suspension's.... Definitely not a Jeep.
Bob Quattrini let us know when your Jeep reaches 1 million miles like the Tundras do..
Let me know when isis stops using land cruisers and changes to jeep.
Toyota frames we're rusting do to Dana holding Corp. leaving out a corrosion inhibitor during the manufacturing process of these frames. Toyota outsourced these frames to an American company because their trucks are built here in the United States. It's more cost-effective to do so due to the cost of shipping thousands of frames to the United States. If they were made in Japan they wouldn't have rusted out. When Toyota was done with the recall they hit Dana holding Corp. with a multi-million dollar bill.
ken H good for you for knowing that. But an excuse for a problem. Is still a problem.
@@youtubecomments5951 definitely can be a big problem. thankfully they did a recall to correct it. Unfortunately for Toyota Dana tried to pull a fast one and leave the corrosion inhibitor out of the processing. I'm sure it probably could have saved them thousands of dollars. Guessing they were hoping to get away with it.
Good
Hi
Please add me up
Good