hey bro! I've had almost every pest going. Vermetid snails are literally the worst pest you can get (bar some of the acro nudies etc that thankfully I haven't had.) don't take them lightly! I've had my 93 for 3 years and I wish I knew what they were at the start, numbers exploded in my tank and I have been battling them ever since. My problem got so bad they would irritate the SPS and eventually start to grow on the SPS themselves. LPS were also affected by the sharp points, I have a crazy photo of my candy cane being punctured, it had retracted and the flesh was stuck like a stretched-out glove. in my experience bumblebee snails are ineffective, along with urchins & wrasse. the only way I managed to reduce my numbers is to reduce feeding to only a few times a week and maintain a super, super clean tank with super low neuts witch of course leads to other issues. almost 1-1.5 years after I started to try to deal with these guys I'm at the point where I realize I will never get rid of them all. I plan to upgrade to a 200g~ soon, dry start again with a strict QT program for anything going from my current tank to my new tank along with anything new ofc. I'll NEVER start a new tank without a QT system in the future, I've learned my lesson harder than most.. Dipping just isn't enough, especially on large tanks.
You know... I used to think pest is not a big deal when I had my 45g and other nano tanks, but things are a bit more complicated with this 135g because I could not easily reach or take out rock. There are parts of the tank that I simply could not get to with my hands or even tong. I totally understand why with a 200g you'd want a QT system, while it's a huge PITA to maintain another system strictly for QT, if I were doing things all over again I MAY seriously consider a QT system and change my channel name, lol. Best of luck to the both of us!
@@InappropriateReefer Yeah, think as soon as your above say 50g your starting to go from easily being able to remove and clean rock to it just being a nightmare to try. Vermetid snails are also bad due to them not being photosynthetic. When I bought my 6ft tank for FW it came from an SW guy and i was given a bunch of plumbing for free also. The pipes were covered internally with Vermetid snails so id expect them to also be hiding there. I think i have come up with a solution for a easy QT system. I purchased a Fluval evo as a QT tank (trying not to turn it into a nano :P ). My plan is to geta bunch of those "Bakki houses" they use for koi ponds, they are super cheap ceramic cylinders with a hole through the middle - simply awesome for the price! (
Thank you! Really happy how the SPS are doing... ironically it's now the softies that I am having issue with. 😂 (although those seems to be recovering as well)
If the vermetids release slime they are slowly killing all corals that are nearby. It’s what they do, that’s why they’re considered the worst pest by many reefers. I have some in my nano tank but they’re not actually vermetids, they’re really skinny tubes and I’ve seen two little antennas on the tube end and they don’t release any slime.
It's great to see the MochaVinchis are doing great, are those the same ones from 5 years ago?? I just picked up a pair for the low low and I'm super satisfied!
Looking into this, I was targeting 0.05 PO4 but with my NO3 so high, figure I'd bring the PO4 up slightly.. it's currently at 0.08, slowly marching towards 0.1 👍
Iv added 20 bumble bees to my 75 about 4 months ago and iv noticed a reduction in vermited snails, the battle rages on But I have a category 7 infestation, long angled hemostats help also 😂
I got a hemostats... but way too short! Trying to see if they have some super long ones, lol. Things seems to be getting better, and I did actually see one of the bumblebee snail squatting over a vermited snail yesterday, so that was encouraging! Keep fighting the good fight my friend.
Vermetid is a pain ...no matter how many i crush remove etc they still coming back on everywhere.. have a bunch bubblebees like 10 in 60gallon but still if vermetids have a tube the snails cant touch them. I use flashlight at night and crushing them where ever i found them... you need good white light to see them all unless they are big.Gl m8
I'm having trouble getting to the bae of the tube for some of these guys, usually only the tube is sticking out among coral polyps. Trying different methods to crush 'em
@@InappropriateReefer yea small ones near corals can be tricky.. i had buy some fragging tools from ebay and had a small pointy tong thats is perfect for crushing them.
Great as always! Question for you. We live in the same area, as such do you have any suggestions for local reef clubs, shows to check out, and most importantly where we can rent a par meter? I don’t think our local shops offer the service, and we’re not ready to buy one. Thanks for any advice you can lend!
Please check out WAMAS (www.wamas.org) and CMAS (www.cmas-md.org), great group of people. For shows, Mason Dixon Reef Club has one that is coming up in Sep, and Philly Splash is happening soon in Sep as well. For PAR meter, WAMAS has one that is free to borrow for members, or if you are close to the Gaithersburg area, you're welcome to borrow mine for a few days too, just shoot me an email at inappropriatereefer@gmail.com and we can chat!
I had vermetid snails since I started my 20gal tank. Now after maturing my tank I wanted to add some corals but I vermetids bloomed and they are everywhere. In my HOB filter, on all decoration and even in the refugium. I am trying to remove them manually but they always come back. If I would remove all the rocks and decoration and change the HOB filter do you think I could get rid of them for good or do you think they can lay eggs in the send or something like that?
My feeling is that if you see them in your HOB filer, decoration, and refugium, they are probably in your display's rock work as well (have you checked the backside?). Good news is that 20g is not too difficult to handle, you could even pull the rock out to remove the snails if you want to?
@@InappropriateReefer Yep, they are in my display rock as well. I tried pulling it out (now while I still don't have any corals) and clean it, but it has so many crevices where I cannot reach so vermetids keep coming back. Plus I am maybe not doing a great job destroying their base but just the tip. Do you think I would get rid of them if I would pull out all rocks and decorations and even use a new HOB filter? I'm guessing that would also set my tank back a few months :(
My zoas have been acting weird for about a month. Lost a 100 polyp colonie and other zoas are slowly losing polyps. All my parameters are good. Sent out a ICP test and they lost my saltwater sample and they sent me a new one ( just recieved the new kit) so now I have to wait even longer
@@InappropriateReefer yeah :( Reefdudes this morning suggested i try Calcium Carbonate powder as they try to eat it and it can kill them. I've ordered some and will see how it goes. fingers crossed
Love the tank! I have heard that calcium carbonate dosing will cause vermatids to clog up over time!? It also doesn't effect ph, any other parameters or any other life in the tank apparently 🤞 I need to get a rock covered in them and test it soon but thought it may be helpful to you! 🙂
How would this work? to my understanding, if you add it as a powder it will drop your cal + ph levels. if you add it as a solution it's just CaCO3 and is insoluble until it mixes with the co2 in the air, and then you just have a calcium reactor, no? If this is a viable way of dealing with them id love to know! I have a major issue with these nasty guys! :))
@@The1NdNly I'm not 100% as I need to test it myself but I watched a Craft Aquatic video on his weekly maintenance and it was mentioned from just before 11m 30s in, worth a shot! Search "craft aquatic maintenance 3 year" I also put up a post about it on my Instagram a while back with a link, let me know how it goes if you try it, I'm keen to get a rock covered in them locally and test it! Sounds almost too good to be true 🤞
@@PracticalReefer Hey! thanks for the reply! I just checked it out and done some more reading. seems some big names have tried this with no substantial results. and I'm still in the camp of if you have a problem like I do your not going to kill them all and they will build again if the food is available.
@@The1NdNly hey thanks for coming back too! Oh that's good to know! I haven't found much info myself, so the plan was to try and find a rock from another reefer covered in them and test it sometime but thats easier said than done! I did finally manage to get bumblebee snails from my local LFS at the weekend to hopefully prevent any sort of infestation in my tank, but apparently thay can be hit or miss as well, hopefully they take out any if they make there way in 🤞 thanks for coming back!
Yes sir, I heard of that before as well. I have bumped my PO4 up a hint to 0.04 (prob 0.05 now), and also lowered the intensity of the light a bit, things look to be turnin around!
Overall, your reef’s looking awesome brother! Hey curious what’s the deal with your LiteBar hung so high buddy? I have two similar supplemental LiteBars for pop…and they’re totally fine to mount at same height as the main lights right away. But If you really want to acclimate…why not just slowly increase photoperiod instead ? ..just curious was all man. Cheers 🍻
Yes sir, I hung the bar up higher to avoid too much PAR at once. I was taking reading w/ my PAR Meter at where the corals are at and it went up a decent amount. Figure I'd play it safe. Did not want to decrease the photo-period since that's when I get to watch & enjoy the tank, lol!
We chatted a few months ago about cyano and dino bacteria. Shortly after that, I discovered that I was not following the steps on my Nitrate test 100%. I was getting a reading of .05. I got the Hanna HR Nitrate tester and the nitrate was sitting at .51 ppm. I increased the amount of water changes from 10g x 3 times a week to 40g 1 time per week. I left the lights off for a week and the dino went away. The cyano, however is exploding!! Thoughts???
For Cyano, my go-to is ChemiClean if good husbandry does not make it go away. Although your system may become slightly imbalance after using it, but I have had good experience using ChemiClean.
You wont spend 30mins doing a quick water change as your way to "busy" but You will record and edit a 13.49 minute video, plugging products and contact names, it is most likely longer unedited,. The health of your livestock is more important then content
Hey Darren, I respect you for speaking up for the animals so I want to spend a minute to explain why that was the case. A water change on my 135g is a decent undertaking, it takes a little bit of pre-planning as I do not have pre-made RODI water in that volume and pre-mixed saltwater. Making RODI water is not a big deal since I just leave it running, although mixing & heating the saltwater will take some time to get right, usually this portion takes around 30-mins on it's own. Next comes the major piece, siphoning the water out. These days I use my wet/dry vac to siphon the sump, this way I remove the water and clean the sump of detritus, typically about 8-10 buckets full. Probably around an hour, longer if I want to clean things while I am at it. Not terrible but the tricky part is that this has to be done in one sitting, including refilling the tank afterwards. Filming, editing this or any video was done whenever I find a little free time that I could sit down and add a little chunk, that's how I usually accumulate 20 some minutes worth of video in a week - I think this is the part that most folks may miss. With work, Leon out of day care the whole last week and an upcoming trip in 2-3 days, a big water change on a hunch did not happen. That said, you would be happy to hear that a water change happened early this week, I'm holding my breath that it helped. Sorry for the wall of text, out of respect for your concerns of the animals living with me, I figure you deserve a proper answer. ;-)
In a way it's kind of funny with ALL that computing on the aquarium still many problems, makes one wonder is it even needed all this computing since you are over it all the time , thx tho
Definitely not necessary to have all the fancy gear! Although one thing I did not have issue with is SPS - no more Alk-swings. I can confidently say that the Alkatronic has helped keep my Alk rock solid. Otherstuff... well, you are watching the Inappropriate Reefer's channel. 😅
Noticed vermetid snails in my tank too, got some bumblebee snails and removed as many as I could manually.
Great coral pickup!
hey bro! I've had almost every pest going. Vermetid snails are literally the worst pest you can get (bar some of the acro nudies etc that thankfully I haven't had.) don't take them lightly!
I've had my 93 for 3 years and I wish I knew what they were at the start, numbers exploded in my tank and I have been battling them ever since.
My problem got so bad they would irritate the SPS and eventually start to grow on the SPS themselves. LPS were also affected by the sharp points, I have a crazy photo of my candy cane being punctured, it had retracted and the flesh was stuck like a stretched-out glove.
in my experience bumblebee snails are ineffective, along with urchins & wrasse. the only way I managed to reduce my numbers is to reduce feeding to only a few times a week and maintain a super, super clean tank with super low neuts witch of course leads to other issues.
almost 1-1.5 years after I started to try to deal with these guys I'm at the point where I realize I will never get rid of them all. I plan to upgrade to a 200g~ soon, dry start again with a strict QT program for anything going from my current tank to my new tank along with anything new ofc.
I'll NEVER start a new tank without a QT system in the future, I've learned my lesson harder than most.. Dipping just isn't enough, especially on large tanks.
You know... I used to think pest is not a big deal when I had my 45g and other nano tanks, but things are a bit more complicated with this 135g because I could not easily reach or take out rock. There are parts of the tank that I simply could not get to with my hands or even tong. I totally understand why with a 200g you'd want a QT system, while it's a huge PITA to maintain another system strictly for QT, if I were doing things all over again I MAY seriously consider a QT system and change my channel name, lol. Best of luck to the both of us!
@@InappropriateReefer Yeah, think as soon as your above say 50g your starting to go from easily being able to remove and clean rock to it just being a nightmare to try. Vermetid snails are also bad due to them not being photosynthetic. When I bought my 6ft tank for FW it came from an SW guy and i was given a bunch of plumbing for free also. The pipes were covered internally with Vermetid snails so id expect them to also be hiding there.
I think i have come up with a solution for a easy QT system. I purchased a Fluval evo as a QT tank (trying not to turn it into a nano :P ). My plan is to geta bunch of those "Bakki houses" they use for koi ponds, they are super cheap ceramic cylinders with a hole through the middle - simply awesome for the price! (
I can’t believe the growth on those Acroporas up top, just amazing, great job 👏
Thank you! Really happy how the SPS are doing... ironically it's now the softies that I am having issue with. 😂 (although those seems to be recovering as well)
Love this channel. Watched a bunch of videos today. Easy watch
If the vermetids release slime they are slowly killing all corals that are nearby. It’s what they do, that’s why they’re considered the worst pest by many reefers. I have some in my nano tank but they’re not actually vermetids, they’re really skinny tubes and I’ve seen two little antennas on the tube end and they don’t release any slime.
It's great to see the MochaVinchis are doing great, are those the same ones from 5 years ago?? I just picked up a pair for the low low and I'm super satisfied!
Totally the Vermetids. Same thing has happened in my tank.
In addition to bubble bee snails, I find jabbing them with a pick or scrapper reduces them quickly.
Solid. Looking for weapon.
I would also try to cut back the light time on your fuge, working too good
You want 0.05-0.15 phosphate in reef tank even for acropora bare minimum is 0.05. I keep my acropora dominated tank at 0.10-0.15 phosphate.
Looking into this, I was targeting 0.05 PO4 but with my NO3 so high, figure I'd bring the PO4 up slightly.. it's currently at 0.08, slowly marching towards 0.1 👍
Iv added 20 bumble bees to my 75 about 4 months ago and iv noticed a reduction in vermited snails, the battle rages on
But I have a category 7 infestation, long angled hemostats help also 😂
I got a hemostats... but way too short! Trying to see if they have some super long ones, lol. Things seems to be getting better, and I did actually see one of the bumblebee snail squatting over a vermited snail yesterday, so that was encouraging! Keep fighting the good fight my friend.
The Tank Looks amazing!
Do not bury the foot as well. The snails do dig into the sand bed they can easily access the foot.
Roger that. I did pile some sand on but those got blown off pretty quickly. I'll just have to be vigilant about those bumblee bee snails.
I had Vermetid Snails in my 10 gallon and it felt like a waking nightmare. I can only imagine how infuriating it would be in a tank that big😆
Tank you for your videos!
Vermetid is a pain ...no matter how many i crush remove etc they still coming back on everywhere.. have a bunch bubblebees like 10 in 60gallon but still if vermetids have a tube the snails cant touch them. I use flashlight at night and crushing them where ever i found them... you need good white light to see them all unless they are big.Gl m8
I'm having trouble getting to the bae of the tube for some of these guys, usually only the tube is sticking out among coral polyps. Trying different methods to crush 'em
@@InappropriateReefer yea small ones near corals can be tricky.. i had buy some fragging tools from ebay and had a small pointy tong thats is perfect for crushing them.
Great as always! Question for you. We live in the same area, as such do you have any suggestions for local reef clubs, shows to check out, and most importantly where we can rent a par meter? I don’t think our local shops offer the service, and we’re not ready to buy one. Thanks for any advice you can lend!
Please check out WAMAS (www.wamas.org) and CMAS (www.cmas-md.org), great group of people. For shows, Mason Dixon Reef Club has one that is coming up in Sep, and Philly Splash is happening soon in Sep as well. For PAR meter, WAMAS has one that is free to borrow for members, or if you are close to the Gaithersburg area, you're welcome to borrow mine for a few days too, just shoot me an email at inappropriatereefer@gmail.com and we can chat!
LOL!!! You are the Inappropriate Reefer for sure. Have you ever thought of giving corals their own space so they can grow? Chemical warfare for sure
Hey, what kind of rock is the arch piece in the middle of your tank? Is man made or real rock?
Hey Jay, I cemented a few pieces of Reef Saver rock (man-made rock) together to get that shape
I had vermetid snails since I started my 20gal tank. Now after maturing my tank I wanted to add some corals but I vermetids bloomed and they are everywhere. In my HOB filter, on all decoration and even in the refugium. I am trying to remove them manually but they always come back. If I would remove all the rocks and decoration and change the HOB filter do you think I could get rid of them for good or do you think they can lay eggs in the send or something like that?
My feeling is that if you see them in your HOB filer, decoration, and refugium, they are probably in your display's rock work as well (have you checked the backside?). Good news is that 20g is not too difficult to handle, you could even pull the rock out to remove the snails if you want to?
@@InappropriateReefer Yep, they are in my display rock as well. I tried pulling it out (now while I still don't have any corals) and clean it, but it has so many crevices where I cannot reach so vermetids keep coming back. Plus I am maybe not doing a great job destroying their base but just the tip. Do you think I would get rid of them if I would pull out all rocks and decorations and even use a new HOB filter? I'm guessing that would also set my tank back a few months :(
@@InappropriateReefer btw, awesome looking tank! I wish you luck with these vermetids!
heard the purit is good at pulling nitrates.
Silver bellied Wrasse is how I got mine under control. They seemingly love to chomp on them.
just to confirm before i go searching for one.... You have a silver bellied yellow wrasse and it eats vermetid snails?
@@jobetq4528 It worked well for me. Banana as he was known did a great job. Just check if its compatible with other crustaceans in your tank.
Where did you get the gloves?
Easily best reefer channel^^^
My zoas have been acting weird for about a month. Lost a 100 polyp colonie and other zoas are slowly losing polyps. All my parameters are good. Sent out a ICP test and they lost my saltwater sample and they sent me a new one ( just recieved the new kit) so now I have to wait even longer
Good luck man... looks like we may be in this together
Every time I have these issues with zoas it’s either too much light, or the water is too clean.
I wish we could get bumble bee snails in Australia. I have a Vermetid snail problem thats starting to get out of hand :(
Did not know that they are banned in Australia!
@@InappropriateReefer yeah :(
Reefdudes this morning suggested i try Calcium Carbonate powder as they try to eat it and it can kill them. I've ordered some and will see how it goes. fingers crossed
Love the tank! I have heard that calcium carbonate dosing will cause vermatids to clog up over time!?
It also doesn't effect ph, any other parameters or any other life in the tank apparently 🤞
I need to get a rock covered in them and test it soon but thought it may be helpful to you! 🙂
How would this work?
to my understanding, if you add it as a powder it will drop your cal + ph levels. if you add it as a solution it's just CaCO3 and is insoluble until it mixes with the co2 in the air, and then you just have a calcium reactor, no?
If this is a viable way of dealing with them id love to know! I have a major issue with these nasty guys! :))
@@The1NdNly I'm not 100% as I need to test it myself but I watched a Craft Aquatic video on his weekly maintenance and it was mentioned from just before 11m 30s in, worth a shot!
Search "craft aquatic maintenance 3 year" I also put up a post about it on my Instagram a while back with a link, let me know how it goes if you try it, I'm keen to get a rock covered in them locally and test it! Sounds almost too good to be true 🤞
@@PracticalReefer Hey! thanks for the reply!
I just checked it out and done some more reading. seems some big names have tried this with no substantial results. and I'm still in the camp of if you have a problem like I do your not going to kill them all and they will build again if the food is available.
@@The1NdNly hey thanks for coming back too!
Oh that's good to know!
I haven't found much info myself, so the plan was to try and find a rock from another reefer covered in them and test it sometime but thats easier said than done!
I did finally manage to get bumblebee snails from my local LFS at the weekend to hopefully prevent any sort of infestation in my tank, but apparently thay can be hit or miss as well, hopefully they take out any if they make there way in 🤞 thanks for coming back!
zoas hate vermetid snails!
Thank you, the bumblee snails seems to be making an impact!
I saw test (Jake from Reef builders) that confirm that higher light needs higher flow in the aquarium. Perhaps?
Yes sir, I heard of that before as well. I have bumped my PO4 up a hint to 0.04 (prob 0.05 now), and also lowered the intensity of the light a bit, things look to be turnin around!
Overall, your reef’s looking awesome brother!
Hey curious what’s the deal with your LiteBar hung so high buddy?
I have two similar supplemental LiteBars for pop…and they’re totally fine to mount at same height as the main lights right away.
But If you really want to acclimate…why not just slowly increase photoperiod instead ?
..just curious was all man. Cheers 🍻
thats how hes controlling its par higher up less par.
@@irts10 I see. Perhaps he’s not aware those bars don’t produce enough PAR to require that. Can instead just limit DLI.
Yes sir, I hung the bar up higher to avoid too much PAR at once. I was taking reading w/ my PAR Meter at where the corals are at and it went up a decent amount. Figure I'd play it safe. Did not want to decrease the photo-period since that's when I get to watch & enjoy the tank, lol!
This is why I run ozone.
We chatted a few months ago about cyano and dino bacteria. Shortly after that, I discovered that I was not following the steps on my Nitrate test 100%. I was getting a reading of .05. I got the Hanna HR Nitrate tester and the nitrate was sitting at .51 ppm. I increased the amount of water changes from 10g x 3 times a week to 40g 1 time per week. I left the lights off for a week and the dino went away. The cyano, however is exploding!! Thoughts???
For Cyano, my go-to is ChemiClean if good husbandry does not make it go away. Although your system may become slightly imbalance after using it, but I have had good experience using ChemiClean.
Bump your phosphates up, you have an LPS dominate system not a sea of acros. Don't do it just by feeding more either, bump it up by dosing.
Yes sir, sitting at 0.08 today, trying to hold it steady
I think coral snow clogs the verminated snails not sure but I’m trying
What temperature do you run the tank at?
I aim for 78.5!
be careful with carbon and your tangs, mine got HLLE from carbon usage
Thanks for the heads up, I will be sure to pull the Pureit soon as the softie issue is resolved!
My bumblebee snails done nothing, I found using a laser pen and cooking them worked well
Where'd you get the laser? any details on them?
@@taylor4tails Iv had it a couple of years now I think it was from eBay. I used it today on killing aptisia
You wont spend 30mins doing a quick water change as your way to "busy" but You will record and edit a 13.49 minute video, plugging products and contact names, it is most likely longer unedited,. The health of your livestock is more important then content
Hey Darren, I respect you for speaking up for the animals so I want to spend a minute to explain why that was the case. A water change on my 135g is a decent undertaking, it takes a little bit of pre-planning as I do not have pre-made RODI water in that volume and pre-mixed saltwater. Making RODI water is not a big deal since I just leave it running, although mixing & heating the saltwater will take some time to get right, usually this portion takes around 30-mins on it's own. Next comes the major piece, siphoning the water out. These days I use my wet/dry vac to siphon the sump, this way I remove the water and clean the sump of detritus, typically about 8-10 buckets full. Probably around an hour, longer if I want to clean things while I am at it. Not terrible but the tricky part is that this has to be done in one sitting, including refilling the tank afterwards. Filming, editing this or any video was done whenever I find a little free time that I could sit down and add a little chunk, that's how I usually accumulate 20 some minutes worth of video in a week - I think this is the part that most folks may miss. With work, Leon out of day care the whole last week and an upcoming trip in 2-3 days, a big water change on a hunch did not happen. That said, you would be happy to hear that a water change happened early this week, I'm holding my breath that it helped. Sorry for the wall of text, out of respect for your concerns of the animals living with me, I figure you deserve a proper answer. ;-)
Chasing the numbers? Don’t bumblebees go after other things when done with vermitids.
First🙌
i put 8 Zbra/ bumblebee snails in tank eat all vermetid they did it in 90days . i would take out 100 to 200 vemetids a nite off the glass
I have a lot of vermetids but only on my rock I’ve never seen them on my glass
Hopefully it's not related to the brown jelly diease you got rid of a couple weeks ago
In a way it's kind of funny with ALL that computing on the aquarium still many problems, makes one wonder is it even needed all this computing since you are over it all the time , thx tho
Definitely not necessary to have all the fancy gear! Although one thing I did not have issue with is SPS - no more Alk-swings. I can confidently say that the Alkatronic has helped keep my Alk rock solid. Otherstuff... well, you are watching the Inappropriate Reefer's channel. 😅
Wat happened, i just commented before to watch
2 bumble bees and me smashing them anytime possible took care for my vermetid infestation!
Dont chaseeeeeeee numbersss
We need to remix TLC's Don't go chasing waterfall
@@InappropriateReefer heheeeeeee
If your zoas are closed and suffering, you’ve got zoa eating nudibranchs and / or spiders. That’s why they are closed.
WASSUP
Why
Check ur mg