I always felt that a K20 is best for boosted applications and K24 is best for N/A applications. K20 has slightly more cylinder thickness which helps block integrity good for lots of boost and revs higher which is good for a wider power band on boost, and the k24 has extra capacity which helps give a meatier mid range for all motor setups and a potential for higher compression due more stroke.
@@great4ever845 Stock? No. In stock form, F20C from honda s2000 revs to 9k. It is proven you can make K rev this high, but it is adviced to make some upgrades.
Turbochargers love more displacement though. Having more air go in makes sense when you have longer connecting rods to push up and down. Not only that, but turbocharged configurations are better with lower compression ratio. Given that K24's have a lower compression ratio than K20's do, I'd say a boosted K24 would be more reliable (stronger) than a boosted K20
I owned two of those engines! I had a K-20 in my RSX type S and the F-22-A1 in my 91 accord. My F-22 was modified but my 00 accord F-23-A1 was HEAVILY modified cranking out 300 hp NA!
I don't understand this comment, the K series destroys the F22, unless you're talking about the F22C1, which isn't significantly different from the K series engines, except that it has less aftermarket support.
@@jonthecowboy More torque? Compared to what version of the K20? But, yeah, the K20 is going to be faster, because the amount of torque that an engine makes doesn't really mean anything.
@@PistonAvatarGuy yeah it's just odd having little torque the k20 civic is a quick ass car for how cheap and stuff but the f22a4 has more lb-ft than the k20z6
I would say that are probably the best 4 cylinder engines ever made. Best blend of reliability,tuning potential and price. No wonder they are swapped in everything.aftermarket is also huge for these engines.
K24 Heads have relatively poor flow, I believe the intake valves are smaller. Also, you guys didn't mention but there's a golden nugget K24 that had a crankshaft with fully weighted counter weights and improved block webbing, as well as other small improvements all around. I'm referring to the 06+ TSX's K24A2. The Odyssey and Element blocks are pretty comparable but the 06+ TSX crank is the superior part. The head also has slightly more aggressive cams but they're still hindered by the lack of flow potential from the valves. Yes the counter weights make the crank a few pounds heavier, but the high end vibration stability is a well worth trade off, plus its not like a good 8-10 lbs flywheel wont counteract the extra rotational mass/ inertia. If you grab a K20Z1 RSX-S Head and slap it onto a 06+ K24A2 TSX block, you've got the best combination possible. Throw some cams, springs/retainers, Pistons/Rods, along with a tune and 250+ whp is easily possible, if not pretty casual now lol
Been wanting to build an ef hatch for almost 20 years. A couple years ago I finally got the car for a good price and just last week I got a salvaged 2013 civic si. Can’t wait to figure out how to get that k24 into that ef. I have a feeling that 205 hp and a 6 speed are going to be amazing in that little civic.
@@Theanswer0000 I might have to dig for receipts. The 1989 CRX was $900. I bought the engine and transmission (The whole car)already together from a 2006 junkyard Civic SI. Someone had swapped out the K20 that was in there. Whole car was $1500, I sold pieces I didn't need and kept what I wanted.
@@Theanswer0000 CRX not running yet but engine and transmission are installed. I have to convert it from auto to manual. I of course need an ECM. I bought (but haven't installed) Hush perf. clutch pedal assy., Hybrid Racing no cut shift box, throttle body and Karcepts adapter plate, Hush perf. hydro clutch conversion with master cylinder and hoses, cheap Ebay track bar, axles. Its a work in progress lol.
This was an issue for swapping the k24 into the first generation Miata but they sell valve covers now that are shaved a little bit to fit under the hood. So it might work with other cars too.
I have a 92 eg with a k20a2 boosted with a precision turbo and yesterday i was hauling ass in 3rd gear and then accidentally shifted to 2nd gear! Smoke blew out the exhaust and now it's locked up. Do u guys think its just the head or worse?
For race setups the FD2 type r trans is good but the final drive is terrible for street driven cars. The fa5 6 speed is the same but the 6th gear and FD ratios are better suited for street applications. Also make sure you get the 09'-11' trans as the bearings are better.
I have a 14 Si and I’ve had B Series cars. A also had a friend who had an RSX-S. I love the low-end grunt of the 24 but the 20 is so much more fun with the more pronounced switch-over and 8k redline.
I'm doing a k20 swap and a turbocharged k24 into Pontiac Fiero's. I am trying to learn all specifics about Hondas. I cant let all the k swapped MR2's have all the fun! These engines have so much potential, its crazy!
@BeADad2447 because the 4.0 Olds v8, while ok for what it is, doesn't have 1/10th the aftermarket support of a k series. People that do the Northstar, Olds v8, 4.9 caddy etc do them for the v8 wow factor. They make cool cruisers. I've done 2 of those 3 swaps. It's just not what I want. I like the idea of a high revving engine in my "sports car". GM should of offered the LQ1 v6 from the get go. Atleast that would have been better than the boat anchor Duke and 2.8 v6.
A K24 with a reflash is a fantastic engine...from 2000 rpm - 7600, there is no let up til it hits the limiter, just pure power...and that is in the heavier accord
K24 with k20z3 head seems to be quite strong. No expenses spared on internals, 12.9to 1 fully balanced bottom end, h beam rods and all arp fasteners, recommend doing the s2000 oil pump upgrade. The k24 at 8k+ is quite a handful between gears.
One thing you mentioned at 4:00 is that the k24 from element/accord is preferred with a head swap. You overlooked that you would need to change the pistons out because the accord/element ones would hit the valves on the k20 head. I have heard more about people using a crv block and swapping parts off a k20a2.
I had a K20 in my RSX-S and my GF has a K24 in her Civic SiR and the K20 felt better when the VTec kicked in. Hers was fine but the switch over was smoother and not as exciting. K20 vote switch feels like a turbo. And the sounds at higher RPM sounded amazing.
Having owned a B16A2 for 10+ years and driven half a million kms and redlining it wherever I go without fail, I'm inclined to go with the K20 because it has less stroke. I'm firmly convinced my B16 lasted this long precisely because of that short stroke, bringing down the mean piston speed considerably. With that said, I'm keen to hear how well the K24 stands up to serious abuse. Anybody with experience on this front?
Also, a k20 holds boost much better due to it having a shorter stroke. You have de-stroke a k24 a lot to have a reliable high whp motor. My buddy is boosted in his k24 and he can't even go over 10 psi of boost but I've seen stock k20a's go over 12 🤔 I can care less for torque in a FWD car you'll just spin of the line
@@jattack9972 depends on the chassis it's on and how you launch.. most races aren't off the line tho and when your going up a hill or in low rpm, torque is king!
@@shawnsta7779 yeah but, torque in a FWD does you no good in all perspectives. Off the line nor at high rpm does a k24 does any good if you're spinning. Torque for FWD also causes under steer, that's also why Honda went back to the k20. It's a more versatile motor and 12 or 15 more torque really won't give you a upper advantage but the k20a can make so much more power in the mid and high rev range which in any cases you'll always be in while in hill climbing, autocross, circuit, drag etc... Also, k20's are a much better motor for holding boost then a k24 in all standards. So it all comes to preference at the end of the day, k24 is the perfect N/A build while the k20 is the best boost motor. It's all in what you wanna do honestly but in my preference is choose the k20 Because of it's balance, high revs, and boost capability
@@jattack9972 you sound so butthurt holy shit lmao. K24 when tuned would make like 40 ft Ibs more torque. Also k24 is a great engine for the tsx or accord chassis because it's meant to handle such a big 4 cylinder. For a true race car a k24 NA is the best balance and power overall.
I drive ek with k20, k24, k24/20. All motor build. K24/20 all day best!! But when you build engine take care of all parts and build. Buy all new parts and do it like factory build. Best gear,tran, k20 gears only 6 speed from k24 and f.d 4.38. Best for street use. Cheers!!
@@michaeldavidmontalvo2402 then check cranck,cams,chain, rod bearings, oil pump, oil cooler and all parts you can.. with this builds allways problems if you are not checking parts.. same with trans.. best!
Don't know about the manifold being "shit". How it was designed, it was more aimed towards on producing more torque and keeping that torque in the low end. If you want more all motor power, than the 9th gen platform isn't too good for this. Also depends what your end goal is with a car. For me, I kept my 9th gen completely stock with just brakes and tires and did nothing but autox and track with it. The torque really helps with corner exit in a higher gear compared to staying in the lower gear on an 8th gen, topping out the rev limiter on corner exits.
Both motors are pretty similar to each other but if all you want to do is wrench and try to make more power out of these motors, then yes, K24A2 would be a better fit. I personally tracked and autoxed my 9th gen completely stock and I had no complaints with it's power and torque delivery on track. The motor responds great even though it was an e-throttle. Driven many other e-throttles before I gotten my 9th gen (even drove a TSX Type-S) and the 9th gen had a great responding motor that's similar to the 8th gen. It made it great to heel-toe.
PiroFyre lol u idiots talking about track racing 200hp stock hondas lol. Dude my 94z28 camaro stock would destroy you and not even be trying. Handled so much better too
I had an 04 element EX that I totalled by hitting 2 elk in September last year but the engine still ran great just a lot of body damage to the front and now have an 02 rsx type-s finding out the k24 bottom+k20head would have been great I should've kept my element when I was paid out by insurance and taken a cut on the payout and combined the engines! Damn
Great video, just one minor correction. "The K20 provides plenty enough power to push a lightweight Honda around...". As the overwhelming majority of Hondas are front wheel drive, you're actually pulling it around, not pushing it.
My current daily is a JDM EP3 pre-facelift in Champ White; I’ve just bought an EG5 with a B16 Turbo pushing 230-240 - I’m about to pay a proper brilliant guy to K24 Frank it, hopefully I’ll push 280 NA, then it’ll be all done haha. Great video.
Thank you for making this video. I still have so many questions about what my choice will be but this really helps break it down into a better decision making model. Thanks again!!
Being a guy who loves his dads DC5 great video. You need to do a video on EJ vs FA engines in the Subaru ! Your break downs are concise and straight to the point awesome stuff
On a hp per litre ratio only the latest and top tier Type R, K series engines beat the older B series engines B16a, b16b and B18c (Gsr and Type R) versions. Goes to show the B is still formidable and relevant as what they lose in total power they gain by being the more economical engines.
Back in 01 a buddy had a black type r that he turboed. It was a great car before the turbo but mental after. The b18c was a great motor but cars got heavier and needed the tq numbers.
loved the K24 I had in my 17 accord, but the CVT ruined the entire experience. also noted that the intake manifold was on the fire wall side while the block had the 4 exhaust exits built into it and lead to a singular exhaust exit. it was kind of odd. just switched to a 19 civic sport 6MT. couldn't be happier with my decision to get the K20 instead of the 1.5T, especially with soflo weather.
As an old-school EF guy, I'm much more fond of the B-series for these reasons: - Rod linkage shifter. - cable clutch - more simple & practical layout for service - more noticable v-tec changeover!!! K series dont have the same "driver feedback" feel!!!!!
Chris Sikora That’s cause you’ve never driven a K20A, probably only the North American spec k20’s. I assure the k29A shits on any North American K20A2,Z3 etc
Im not trying to say that a B series "out-performs" a K series. im saying that I strongly prefer the rod & clevis B series shift linkage, as opposed to the 2 cable K-series linkage. you can feel the sychro's in the tranny! you feel like a "part" of the machine rather than just the operator.
It has to do with the size of the ports and parts availability. That combo has been used up and good parts are harder to find. Dart still makes an improved B-series block at a pretty reasonable price. They can also take more boost pressure than a stock K-series.
Didn't that start with the H-Series. I remember people putting the 2.0 heads on the 2.2 blocks from preludes and accords and Adding turbos. The B-18 DOHC wasn't available here then I thought. It was all SOHC's back then. The B-16 was only in the Del Sol and eventually the Civic SI Whoops forgot all about the 170hp B-18 in the Integra GSR😂😂
I owned an 04 K24a2 with a Jackson Racing Supercharger 6-7psi before owning my two K20's. The blown K24 was in a 2600lb EP3. I didnt use a k20 head it was fast and tuned well. However the K24 does not have the same rev matching raise hell feel a K20 does. I was jelly over my boy's blown K20a2 then... I went to a EG K20a2 swap and did IPS K2 cams, Eibach VS, handported head, RRC 87mm pistons, ported RBC, maxbore TB, RCrew header, 3" E, 3" ram air intake, kpro...just a bit over 250whp. Hybrid Racing cables too...Turned it into a downpayment on a home. Now I got a DC5-S. The K20 can be rev matched and driven like a cheap whore just a pounding away on a road course. The K24 likes it slow and ruff getting the job done. The K20 is like a really tiny hot piece of ass that like to be thrown around the bedroom and doesn't break under pounding. Just free up the mid-range and top end. Or do a 2.2L stroker with cams forged internals boom
I picked a K24A2 with ported head and Precision 5858 turbo. It revs to 7k RPM and makes an easy ~500whp. There are some reported issues using a K20 head and K24 block.
I subscribed..because it's an excellent video. I do not own a honda but have always wondered about this. I'm a b14 nissan and L30 altima owner. But love the video.
@@christopherrogers8316 I've sold JDM engines for awhile. They're about the same. K20 bout 400-500 - k24 500-1000 and then the few performance k20s that pop up 1k to like 2500
Im talking jdm top performance. Theres way more k24 engines out there that your mama drives but not even close to enough when it comes to k20 type r thats why k20 is more money and harder to find
@@AS-fm6iw In the US there's the k20a2, k20z1 and k20z3 that are virtually identical. Between those 3 I'd say that z3 is the most common, and the most advanced. The a3 is a joke
We used to put 396 heads on 454s back in the day, to increase the compression ratio (CR). Sounds like what your doing putting the k20 heads on the k24. For supercharged engines, it may be beneficial to put the k24 heads on the k20 to LOWER the CR. With lower CR, you can run more boost before having to deal with detonation issues!
As long as the 396 heads were closed chamber 98 cc and not open chamber 118 cc. But the closed chamber heads shrouded the intake valve and decreased head flow. To solve this you can plunge cut the chamber wall to unshroud the intake valve. Ask me how I know...I have a set of closed chamber oval port 702’s (396/427) on my 454 with proper quench distance 0.038” and running flat top pistons. It has massive torque in my C10 and will outrun those supercharged dodge TRX trucks with 700 HP. They get pissed....😂
K24!! I swapped my 2nd TSX K24 into my 8th gen Civic SI (FG2), replacing the stock K20z3, and it is a completely different animal. It is the engine that should've come with the car.
I would say though that I feel as though the K24 would have too much low end power for a lighter Honda, like an EG or EK, in which I would opt for a K20
I’m getting an accord coupe EX-L which has the V6 but I wanna swap it with K24 and add supercharger I saw an EK with that setup on RUclips and it’s badass
@@balistict0fu842 link to this 2000 hp k24? JDM k20a type r will be the most expensive k on the market. usdm k20a3 will be the cheapest k20. K24a2 will be the most expensive k24. it will still be at least a thousand less than the jdm k20a type r. k24a4 will be the cheapest k24 on the market.
I think hes referring to the total swap price when using a k24. I'm putting a k24 in my 91 civic atm and some things I've had to buy, I wouldnt have to if I would have went with a k20.
I tryed an eg5 hatchback with a k24 swap. The hood was raised just so the engine could fit in. When the car was idling and you look at it from the ousite you could see the entire chasis where shaking because of the big engine :) For me the eg civic with k24 swap was more fun than a mk4 supra tt.
i have an 07 tsx, trying to slowly save up money and buy stuff. i have a dc header and flp test pipe, 50 degree vtc, and rbc manifold just sitting around rn. have a pin set coming in for my vtc, hoping to do a custom single exit exhaust, and trying to save money for some skunk2 cams and hondata so i have a reason to put it all together. should really wake it the fuck up lmao
they should put a new k24 twin scroll turbo inside the Honda CRZ make the car slightly lighter weight say 2600 lbs curb weight using more aluminum and slight more carbon fiber hood , roof etc. and give it a final drive ratio of about a 4:30 give it a new name called the CRZ TYPE R that purple color the crz comes in with all the type R accents in red would look awesome! probably 0 to 60 in about 4.7 seconds not bad
Sorry still can’t go wrong with a b20v and for those who don’t know what that is it’s a b20 block from a crv with a b16 head from a Honda Civic Si 👍 cheaper and plenty easy to work with
thought I was the only one who noticed that.... k20s are harder to find and more expensive than k24s. You can find a k24 at almost any salvage yard for cheap, meaning less than 1000 easy.
Thank you for this, I need to get rid of my b16a and I’ve been looking at k20 and k24’s but wondered why there was such a price difference. I don’t know what I’m doing so a k20a sounds like the better choice for me.
Proud owner of a JDM EP3 Type R, K20A motor revs to 9k, matched with the type R gears and helical LSD makes an absolutely amazing all around car. JDM k20A shits on all other k series. Trust me
truth. proud owner of a DC5 Type-R. such an amazing performing car. mine revs all the way out to 9500rpms. yeah a k24 would be nice for the low end but the high end of 9500rpms is some magic added to the driving experience. reminds me of a sport bike lol
@Bryce Czirr you comment some of the dumbest shit. i seen you comment on a 300 hp NA k series build and you said" thats not even hard to do since most turbo 4 bangers these days make that already" lol
K20 heads are everywhere and fairly cheap and easy to work with, good k24 heads are hard to find and require more work, it was covered briefly in the video.
Got Crx with D16 dohc engine, blew a head gasket, going to rebuild it with better camshafts and adjustable timing wheels Got allready head ported and arp bolts ect, planning push 8500rpm and around 180-200whp. Novtec kicks in. 😉
MorreRacing Team thats sounds like it'll be a lot of fun. I've also got a d16a9 powered crx. And a spare engine which I am planning on building up at some point. Certainly never swapping a k series into mine. Great engines but not a fan of k swaps in crx's
k20z3 aint cheap compared to a k24 thats why most people swap when their z3 blows in their 8th gen Si [3k without the 6speed 5k with the 6speed] Me personally ill stick with rebuilding mine always as long as i dont ever compromise the block and in that case id still source a new z3 block.
I just posted pretty much the same thing. High HP k20, ie type s si, is way harder to find and costs much more than the TSX k24 But what would the internet be without misinformation lol.
My 2010 Accord has the K24 engine and it's served me very well. 225K miles later and I've never done anything to her except for 1 new pair of spark plugs. The rest is all original. Full Synthetic Oil changes every 10K and she runs clean. Hoping to take her well over the 300K mark.
B20 is roughly 154 hp vs 200+ from k20 tho b20 is several hundred dollars cheaper so that plays a big part to your point.... For stock power definitely k series but to modify i will always go b series...
Isaac Cornelio mine is pulling 248 all motor stock internals skunk 2 headers skunk 2 intake manifold the only expensive part on my car is my stand alone ecu $1300 bucks but well worth it in a 4 door ek with a type r tranny bottom block is high compression
@Anonymous with stock oil pump and stock valve train 8200 is possible with a tune its still fairly high considering it has a very long stroke, if you want to see higher revs (8500) need k20a valve train and oil pump, i agree with you though, you wont be seeing more than 8200 with just a tune
K24a2 is my engine of choice when it comes to power, availability and price. You can put a oil pump from a type s and it will be able to rev to 8300, I've seen people run the limiter higher than that but I don't have that much confidence in the rod bolts
U shouldnt rev a k24 higher than 7800. All the ones here that rev up to 8500 have blown up in 2 or 3 track days. But theres 2 from the shop i take my car that have made countless track days revying just to 8000 for the past 2 years, only with frequent oil change and valve lash check
Put a ported k20 oil pump and build the engine right you can rev to over 9k all day long. Leave that stock k24 oil pump with balance shafts in there and your engine will be toast! K24a2....best 4 cyl ever made. Honda is going backwards with this "earth dreams" crap!
I've had both a k20z3 and a tsx K24A2 with both bolt ons on my Fa5 civic si and the K24 made it way better! The civic is almost 3,000 lbs so a K24 was needed imo but now that i have a CRZ EX ima b swapping in a K20Z3 since I believe it doesn't need a K24 torque since it will weigh about 2650 with the K20 swap so I guess both are good engines imo.
Dude, we drive Honda’s, pricing is always an issue 😂😂
Juan Rodríguez..... well put 🤣
The struggle is real 😭
Juan Rodríguez I’m sick lol 😂
Speak for yourself. Some of us have the cheddar but just love hondas
Speak for yourself dude. You think all these nicely built Honda’s got poor owners? Nice parts aren’t cheap.
The real question... gallo 20 or gallo 24
I live my life one cheese burger at a time, no lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles are free
The movie predicted the k20 and the k24
Hakasauars I give my wife a quarter inch at a time ...for those ten seconds or less I’m free lol
@@cheddarcheese8945 HAHAHHAHAHA
@@cheddarcheese8945 Gold
I always felt that a K20 is best for boosted applications and K24 is best for N/A applications. K20 has slightly more cylinder thickness which helps block integrity good for lots of boost and revs higher which is good for a wider power band on boost, and the k24 has extra capacity which helps give a meatier mid range for all motor setups and a potential for higher compression due more stroke.
So is it the k20 that revs to 9.2k rpm ?
@@great4ever845 Stock? No. In stock form, F20C from honda s2000 revs to 9k.
It is proven you can make K rev this high, but it is adviced to make some upgrades.
Turbochargers love more displacement though. Having more air go in makes sense when you have longer connecting rods to push up and down. Not only that, but turbocharged configurations are better with lower compression ratio. Given that K24's have a lower compression ratio than K20's do, I'd say a boosted K24 would be more reliable (stronger) than a boosted K20
@@great4ever845 u could do a50 degree bc cam gear and a type a oil pump 💯😌
@@great4ever845 The K24 modified can spin up to 10grand.
K20: Im better
K24: Nah, im better
F22: *hold* *my* *Vtec*
I owned two of those engines! I had a K-20 in my RSX type S and the F-22-A1 in my 91 accord. My F-22 was modified but my 00 accord F-23-A1 was HEAVILY modified cranking out 300 hp NA!
I don't understand this comment, the K series destroys the F22, unless you're talking about the F22C1, which isn't significantly different from the K series engines, except that it has less aftermarket support.
I own a k20 si and a f22 accord 4th gen. The f22 has more torque 😥, but the k20 is way more fun and faster
@@jonthecowboy More torque? Compared to what version of the K20? But, yeah, the K20 is going to be faster, because the amount of torque that an engine makes doesn't really mean anything.
@@PistonAvatarGuy yeah it's just odd having little torque the k20 civic is a quick ass car for how cheap and stuff but the f22a4 has more lb-ft than the k20z6
I would say that are probably the best 4 cylinder engines ever made. Best blend of reliability,tuning potential and price. No wonder they are swapped in everything.aftermarket is also huge for these engines.
K24 Heads have relatively poor flow, I believe the intake valves are smaller. Also, you guys didn't mention but there's a golden nugget K24 that had a crankshaft with fully weighted counter weights and improved block webbing, as well as other small improvements all around. I'm referring to the 06+ TSX's K24A2. The Odyssey and Element blocks are pretty comparable but the 06+ TSX crank is the superior part. The head also has slightly more aggressive cams but they're still hindered by the lack of flow potential from the valves. Yes the counter weights make the crank a few pounds heavier, but the high end vibration stability is a well worth trade off, plus its not like a good 8-10 lbs flywheel wont counteract the extra rotational mass/ inertia.
If you grab a K20Z1 RSX-S Head and slap it onto a 06+ K24A2 TSX block, you've got the best combination possible. Throw some cams, springs/retainers, Pistons/Rods, along with a tune and 250+ whp is easily possible, if not pretty casual now lol
Thanks for watching 👊🏻
Bro everything is alright except the head airflow part. It flows the same as the k20a2/z3
K24A2 out of 06+ tsx also had larger valves to increase flow along with the larger throttle body
I have a k24a2 bottom and k20a2 head with turbo and just above 600hp
@@foxamus513banger6 the shit he said is false. the k24 head does not have poor flow and is practically identical to k20 head
I don’t drive a Honda. I just wanted to learn more lol
Good man!
😂💀 me too trying to learn more
Well, you should.
4 years later, same. lol. I some times get curious. I’m a Chevy and ford guy but don’t hate Hondas
Been wanting to build an ef hatch for almost 20 years. A couple years ago I finally got the car for a good price and just last week I got a salvaged 2013 civic si. Can’t wait to figure out how to get that k24 into that ef. I have a feeling that 205 hp and a 6 speed are going to be amazing in that little civic.
I plan on putting a K24 in my EM2
K24A2. I have currently just installed one in my 1989 CRX. 6 speed LSD transmission. 👍
What I"m thinking about doing. Please share your review and total cost minus car. :)
@@Theanswer0000 I might have to dig for receipts. The 1989 CRX was $900. I bought the engine and transmission (The whole car)already together from a 2006 junkyard Civic SI. Someone had swapped out the K20 that was in there. Whole car was $1500, I sold pieces I didn't need and kept what I wanted.
@@Theanswer0000 CRX not running yet but engine and transmission are installed. I have to convert it from auto to manual. I of course need an ECM. I bought (but haven't installed) Hush perf. clutch pedal assy., Hybrid Racing no cut shift box, throttle body and Karcepts adapter plate, Hush perf. hydro clutch conversion with master cylinder and hoses, cheap Ebay track bar, axles. Its a work in progress lol.
@@Theanswer0000 ruclips.net/video/jS4qwUfMPRw/видео.html
@@bobbydelamar606 big thanks!
The K24 is a taller block due to its stroke. That can be a problem where space is limited. Hood or oil pan clearance can be an issue.
Jarvis it really is I have a 9th gen Si and the oil pan sits too look the engine bay seems too crowded too
Get a moroso oil pan and it will solve that issue
This was an issue for swapping the k24 into the first generation Miata but they sell valve covers now that are shaved a little bit to fit under the hood. So it might work with other cars too.
I have a 92 eg with a k20a2 boosted with a precision turbo and yesterday i was hauling ass in 3rd gear and then accidentally shifted to 2nd gear! Smoke blew out the exhaust and now it's locked up. Do u guys think its just the head or worse?
Dry sump
Neither, K24 Frankenstein with a K20 Type S head and a 6 speed LSD Type R trans. Ultimate Honda setup.
That would be a bad ass setup!
And ktuned shifter
he said that tho....
For race setups the FD2 type r trans is good but the final drive is terrible for street driven cars. The fa5 6 speed is the same but the 6th gear and FD ratios are better suited for street applications. Also make sure you get the 09'-11' trans as the bearings are better.
This is poplar amongst Element enthusiasts
I have a 14 Si and I’ve had B Series cars. A also had a friend who had an RSX-S. I love the low-end grunt of the 24 but the 20 is so much more fun with the more pronounced switch-over and 8k redline.
My first car was a type s. I LOVED. that engine. I want to swap it into something to feel that high rpm again
My cousin had a k24 bottom and k20 head, that thing was insane
I bet he mowed so much grass it broke a record
I need to do this to my element lol.
So do I I have a k24a2 k20a2 6 speed 91 prelude fully built 11:1 all motor .20
@@a91editionsupra14 man those things are such an awesome motor, loud as hell and they always surprise people trying to race you haha
@@a91editionsupra14 and that 6 speed is amazing too
I remember when a k swap just started. I was part of one of the first clubs to have a k20A jdm swap in an 95 EG! It was amazing!
K24's are about to get super cheap in Canada, 2007-11 CRV's rear sub frames are all rotting out and being condemned.
🙏 we coming for them blocks!
I live in vermont, which is basically canada, k series are cheap af here!
Illinois just got hit with snow so the salt on the roads rusted out like all the Honda’s. K24 here I come.
Dont all the mid 2000 accords have them too?
@@darnellquesnel1832 how about you throw a bone on one of those cheap-ass blocks homie
Love your breakdowns man! Very informative and love your pace and delivery. No fluff or BS. Excellent stuff!
I'm doing a k20 swap and a turbocharged k24 into Pontiac Fiero's. I am trying to learn all specifics about Hondas. I cant let all the k swapped MR2's have all the fun! These engines have so much potential, its crazy!
On a fiero? Get a 4.0 from an Olds Aurora! Think bolts to the original transmission?
@BeADad2447 because the 4.0 Olds v8, while ok for what it is, doesn't have 1/10th the aftermarket support of a k series. People that do the Northstar, Olds v8, 4.9 caddy etc do them for the v8 wow factor. They make cool cruisers. I've done 2 of those 3 swaps. It's just not what I want. I like the idea of a high revving engine in my "sports car". GM should of offered the LQ1 v6 from the get go. Atleast that would have been better than the boat anchor Duke and 2.8 v6.
A K24 with a reflash is a fantastic engine...from 2000 rpm - 7600, there is no let up til it hits the limiter, just pure power...and that is in the heavier accord
I can't watch this because I have to study right now. But I liked your video because I love this substantiative conversation. 😃😃😃
K24 with k20z3 head seems to be quite strong. No expenses spared on internals, 12.9to 1 fully balanced bottom end, h beam rods and all arp fasteners, recommend doing the s2000 oil pump upgrade. The k24 at 8k+ is quite a handful between gears.
🤯
Fantastic video. I’ve spent 15 years around K-series Hondas, and I still learned some things. Well organized and concise information. Nice job!
Thanks for watching 👊🏻
One thing you mentioned at 4:00 is that the k24 from element/accord is preferred with a head swap. You overlooked that you would need to change the pistons out because the accord/element ones would hit the valves on the k20 head. I have heard more about people using a crv block and swapping parts off a k20a2.
I had a K20 in my RSX-S and my GF has a K24 in her Civic SiR and the K20 felt better when the VTec kicked in. Hers was fine but the switch over was smoother and not as exciting. K20 vote switch feels like a turbo. And the sounds at higher RPM sounded amazing.
THorne H agreed
K24a2 VTEC hits hard and fast.
B20a2 block cbr 1000r head and piston is the best combo
Having owned a B16A2 for 10+ years and driven half a million kms and redlining it wherever I go without fail, I'm inclined to go with the K20 because it has less stroke. I'm firmly convinced my B16 lasted this long precisely because of that short stroke, bringing down the mean piston speed considerably. With that said, I'm keen to hear how well the K24 stands up to serious abuse. Anybody with experience on this front?
100%
When an engine has a square bore/stroke ratio it is superior
I’ll go with the k20 because of the high revving
Also, a k20 holds boost much better due to it having a shorter stroke. You have de-stroke a k24 a lot to have a reliable high whp motor. My buddy is boosted in his k24 and he can't even go over 10 psi of boost but I've seen stock k20a's go over 12 🤔 I can care less for torque in a FWD car you'll just spin of the line
@@jattack9972 depends on the chassis it's on and how you launch.. most races aren't off the line tho and when your going up a hill or in low rpm, torque is king!
@@shawnsta7779 yeah but, torque in a FWD does you no good in all perspectives. Off the line nor at high rpm does a k24 does any good if you're spinning. Torque for FWD also causes under steer, that's also why Honda went back to the k20. It's a more versatile motor and 12 or 15 more torque really won't give you a upper advantage but the k20a can make so much more power in the mid and high rev range which in any cases you'll always be in while in hill climbing, autocross, circuit, drag etc... Also, k20's are a much better motor for holding boost then a k24 in all standards. So it all comes to preference at the end of the day, k24 is the perfect N/A build while the k20 is the best boost motor. It's all in what you wanna do honestly but in my preference is choose the k20 Because of it's balance, high revs, and boost capability
@@jattack9972 you sound so butthurt holy shit lmao. K24 when tuned would make like 40 ft Ibs more torque. Also k24 is a great engine for the tsx or accord chassis because it's meant to handle such a big 4 cylinder. For a true race car a k24 NA is the best balance and power overall.
I have an k24z and i got 385 wph lots of power....
A k24a2 with a simple type S oil pump is loads of fun and u can rev to the sky!
I drive ek with k20, k24, k24/20. All motor build. K24/20 all day best!! But when you build engine take care of all parts and build. Buy all new parts and do it like factory build. Best gear,tran, k20 gears only 6 speed from k24 and f.d 4.38. Best for street use. Cheers!!
Not everyone can buy new parts tho my guy
@@michaeldavidmontalvo2402 then check cranck,cams,chain, rod bearings, oil pump, oil cooler and all parts you can.. with this builds allways problems if you are not checking parts.. same with trans.. best!
My '14 K24 Accord is factory stock and it's impressive. I had no idea about the potential of these engines. Also the Accord has the 6 speed manual.
You got to get the 2 l turbo accord with a 6-speed that's where it's at
Aww you missed the 9th gen Civic that had a K24. The extra torque made it a really nice daily driver.
Ya but manifold was shit out that car. Definite rbc swap
cuz it aint the good k24, the k24a2 is king
Don't know about the manifold being "shit". How it was designed, it was more aimed towards on producing more torque and keeping that torque in the low end. If you want more all motor power, than the 9th gen platform isn't too good for this. Also depends what your end goal is with a car. For me, I kept my 9th gen completely stock with just brakes and tires and did nothing but autox and track with it. The torque really helps with corner exit in a higher gear compared to staying in the lower gear on an 8th gen, topping out the rev limiter on corner exits.
Both motors are pretty similar to each other but if all you want to do is wrench and try to make more power out of these motors, then yes, K24A2 would be a better fit. I personally tracked and autoxed my 9th gen completely stock and I had no complaints with it's power and torque delivery on track. The motor responds great even though it was an e-throttle. Driven many other e-throttles before I gotten my 9th gen (even drove a TSX Type-S) and the 9th gen had a great responding motor that's similar to the 8th gen. It made it great to heel-toe.
PiroFyre lol u idiots talking about track racing 200hp stock hondas lol. Dude my 94z28 camaro stock would destroy you and not even be trying. Handled so much better too
Great video! The K series are my favorite 4 cylinder engines without a doubt
Thanks 🙏🏻
4G63 laughs at such comments
Just picked up a JDM k24a for $700.00. Currently ripping my k20z3 fg2, but I can’t wait to feel the 2.4L tq 🤘🏼.. Will always love the k20 revs
after the swap which do you prefer the 20 or 24
I had an 04 element EX that I totalled by hitting 2 elk in September last year but the engine still ran great just a lot of body damage to the front and now have an 02 rsx type-s finding out the k24 bottom+k20head would have been great I should've kept my element when I was paid out by insurance and taken a cut on the payout and combined the engines! Damn
It's 2019, those engines give me so much memories, thank you for making this video I'm thinking about it again
I just picked up a k24a2 for my del sol, cant wait to swap it in!
How did it go? I have a Del Sol and was wondering which engine would be best to put in it!
How much horse power?
Need a k20 vs f20 vs k24 vid next. Loved the video.
Thanks! More videos to come in the future 👏🏻
Great video, just one minor correction. "The K20 provides plenty enough power to push a lightweight Honda around...". As the overwhelming majority of Hondas are front wheel drive, you're actually pulling it around, not pushing it.
wtf dude
@@LemonSix 🤣
My current daily is a JDM EP3 pre-facelift in Champ White; I’ve just bought an EG5 with a B16 Turbo pushing 230-240 - I’m about to pay a proper brilliant guy to K24 Frank it, hopefully I’ll push 280 NA, then it’ll be all done haha. Great video.
*_I like my FD2’s K20 better!_*
JDM versions always better
Haha me too, JDM ftw
I’ve just got back my fn2 with new cams and fd2 pump it is slightly noisy but my gosh the engine spins up nice now.
And my Ep3 K20a2 better
Pretty happy with my base model ek hatch with jdm dc5 r engine but I just now want the rrc manifold and I'd be happy
Thank you for making this video. I still have so many questions about what my choice will be but this really helps break it down into a better decision making model. Thanks again!!
Being a guy who loves his dads DC5 great video. You need to do a video on EJ vs FA engines in the Subaru ! Your break downs are concise and straight to the point awesome stuff
Awesome video man. So much to learn and knowledge to gain about cars, engines etc. Keep up the good work. Cheers from New Zealand.
J32 gang!!! I'm older so I love the h22 and f20. When h22 came out people were hyped about it like the k series.
Nice, thanks for watching!
Yup I'm old school Honda had a jdm h22 in my four door Integra blowing doors off mustangs and eclipse oh the 90s so much fun
I still have a f20b vtec in my cb7 one of my favorite dailies
j32a2 and j32a3 are my favorites, that j37a4 and a5 tho, had a 03 cls6spd
@@IND4GR0V3 nice it's rare to find a CL types in my area. Great engine my fav.
Damn bro you’re glow up 😎😎💪🏼 all love no hate, love your videos and all the info you give on them
On a hp per litre ratio only the latest and top tier Type R, K series engines beat the older B series engines B16a, b16b and B18c (Gsr and Type R) versions.
Goes to show the B is still formidable and relevant as what they lose in total power they gain by being the more economical engines.
Back in 01 a buddy had a black type r that he turboed. It was a great car before the turbo but mental after. The b18c was a great motor but cars got heavier and needed the tq numbers.
Had both , still have a k series, gotta love both but the K series fun factor is what tips the scale for me.
loved the K24 I had in my 17 accord, but the CVT ruined the entire experience. also noted that the intake manifold was on the fire wall side while the block had the 4 exhaust exits built into it and lead to a singular exhaust exit. it was kind of odd.
just switched to a 19 civic sport 6MT. couldn't be happier with my decision to get the K20 instead of the 1.5T, especially with soflo weather.
Finishing up my k20z1 turbo swap in my dc2 today. Nice video
Arthur Wall I plan to hurt all feelings precision 6765 controlled by an AEM Infinity
As an old-school EF guy, I'm much more fond of the B-series for these reasons: - Rod linkage shifter. - cable clutch - more simple & practical layout for service - more noticable v-tec changeover!!! K series dont have the same "driver feedback" feel!!!!!
Chris Sikora
That’s cause you’ve never driven a K20A, probably only the North American spec k20’s. I assure the k29A shits on any North American K20A2,Z3 etc
Im not trying to say that a B series "out-performs" a K series. im saying that I strongly prefer the rod & clevis B series shift linkage, as opposed to the 2 cable K-series linkage. you can feel the sychro's in the tranny! you feel like a "part" of the machine rather than just the operator.
@@chrissikora8097 I run a k24 frank motor in my rsx with bolt-ons. The cross over is pretty stout; I'd say on par with a B. Anyway, I love Honda.
I remember that a tuner in Greece swapped a K20 into an Austin Mini. That was a sweet build.
I reminds me, back in the day import guys used to talk about b16 heads on a b18.. or something like that
Or b16/b18 vtec heads on a b20 block hence b20vtec
It has to do with the size of the ports and parts availability. That combo has been used up and good parts are harder to find. Dart still makes an improved B-series block at a pretty reasonable price. They can also take more boost pressure than a stock K-series.
Didn't that start with the H-Series. I remember people putting the 2.0 heads on the 2.2 blocks from preludes and accords and Adding turbos. The B-18 DOHC wasn't available here then I thought. It was all SOHC's back then. The B-16 was only in the Del Sol and eventually the Civic SI
Whoops forgot all about the 170hp B-18 in the Integra GSR😂😂
I was eyeballing a $500 longblock k24a2 swap for my carbd 86 crx hardtop...but only saw a k20z1 installed 1st gen... Thx for the vid
Very good! Lots of info! I have the k24/k20, and its boss
My sleeper accord k24 turbo suprises all them V8 bios! Love it!
Damnnn nice
I'm tooling around in my 02 crv with k24a1, precision turbo. Only thing that sucks is there is no aftermarket for 2nd gen Crvs.
True, I have 03 crv awd with the k24a1 as well
Gr8 video. I go k24 with kept head mate
I owned an 04 K24a2 with a Jackson Racing Supercharger 6-7psi before owning my two K20's. The blown K24 was in a 2600lb EP3. I didnt use a k20 head it was fast and tuned well. However the K24 does not have the same rev matching raise hell feel a K20 does. I was jelly over my boy's blown K20a2 then...
I went to a EG K20a2 swap and did IPS K2 cams, Eibach VS, handported head, RRC 87mm pistons, ported RBC, maxbore TB, RCrew header, 3" E, 3" ram air intake, kpro...just a bit over 250whp. Hybrid Racing cables too...Turned it into a downpayment on a home.
Now I got a DC5-S. The K20 can be rev matched and driven like a cheap whore just a pounding away on a road course. The K24 likes it slow and ruff getting the job done. The K20 is like a really tiny hot piece of ass that like to be thrown around the bedroom and doesn't break under pounding. Just free up the mid-range and top end. Or do a 2.2L stroker with cams forged internals boom
bro.... i need help with my build... you in cali??
24 for street,20 for road course etc the better rod ratio gives a motor longevity(potentially/in theory) in those conditions.
A k24 bottom and a k20 head. Best combo ever.
What system did he use?
I would definitely not miss out on the k series .I will have both engine in my possession ❤🎉🎉
k24 all the way, i like the low end useable torque and throttle respond from the k24.
Is that the one that revs to 9.2 rpm?
I picked a K24A2 with ported head and Precision 5858 turbo. It revs to 7k RPM and makes an easy ~500whp. There are some reported issues using a K20 head and K24 block.
I'll stay with my k20a.
The best one is the one you already have
@@TheYakkis it's only the euroR though but I still Love it :)
K20a2 would be a nice upgrade to my rsx
I subscribed..because it's an excellent video. I do not own a honda but have always wondered about this. I'm a b14 nissan and L30 altima owner. But love the video.
K24 is way cheeper then k20 man
No actually they're about the same. I sell both.
@@freestyleskyline k24a1 i see all the time for 3-400. only k20s for that price are usually k20a3, which arnt prized :c
@@christopherrogers8316 I've sold JDM engines for awhile. They're about the same. K20 bout 400-500 - k24 500-1000 and then the few performance k20s that pop up 1k to like 2500
Im talking jdm top performance. Theres way more k24 engines out there that your mama drives but not even close to enough when it comes to k20 type r thats why k20 is more money and harder to find
@@AS-fm6iw In the US there's the k20a2, k20z1 and k20z3 that are virtually identical. Between those 3 I'd say that z3 is the most common, and the most advanced. The a3 is a joke
K20A because of rod lenght ratio. But I reall love my K24/20A 12:1comp fully built at 274.9/213wheel
We used to put 396 heads on 454s back in the day, to increase the compression ratio (CR). Sounds like what your doing putting the k20 heads on the k24. For supercharged engines, it may be beneficial to put the k24 heads on the k20 to LOWER the CR. With lower CR, you can run more boost before having to deal with detonation issues!
Some people have actually done this with pretty good results.
As long as the 396 heads were closed chamber 98 cc and not open chamber 118 cc. But the closed chamber heads shrouded the intake valve and decreased head flow. To solve this you can plunge cut the chamber wall to unshroud the intake valve. Ask me how I know...I have a set of closed chamber oval port 702’s (396/427) on my 454 with proper quench distance 0.038” and running flat top pistons. It has massive torque in my C10 and will outrun those supercharged dodge TRX trucks with 700 HP. They get pissed....😂
K24!! I swapped my 2nd TSX K24 into my 8th gen Civic SI (FG2), replacing the stock K20z3, and it is a completely different animal. It is the engine that should've come with the car.
I would say though that I feel as though the K24 would have too much low end power for a lighter Honda, like an EG or EK, in which I would opt for a K20
I love my K20C4 👌🏼
I’m getting an accord coupe EX-L which has the V6 but I wanna swap it with K24 and add supercharger I saw an EK with that setup on RUclips and it’s badass
Where are you finding the k20 cheaper than the k24???
K20 is actually more expensive than a K24 you should do a video how to use the internals of a K20 to a k24 head
Sad to say that the k24 I've seen up over 2000+ hp and it's cheaper lol
@@balistict0fu842 link to this 2000 hp k24?
JDM k20a type r will be the most expensive k on the market. usdm k20a3 will be the cheapest k20. K24a2 will be the most expensive k24. it will still be at least a thousand less than the jdm k20a type r. k24a4 will be the cheapest k24 on the market.
Becauze you can find a k24 element full block all over the place and swap internals
I think hes referring to the total swap price when using a k24. I'm putting a k24 in my 91 civic atm and some things I've had to buy, I wouldnt have to if I would have went with a k20.
I have a ep3 type r with the k20a2 love it the dream is a k24 frank build
thanks for the educational video. Love my 05' TSX! My only complaint is I just wish they sounded better :/ k20 sounds way better
Funny how I have 03 rsx type s and I think the k24a2 sounds better 🤣 , sounds more deep and mean (at least when modded)
@@amirparvez5415 06 and up tsx sound mean af. 04-05 not so much.
I tryed an eg5 hatchback with a k24 swap. The hood was raised just so the engine could fit in.
When the car was idling and you look at it from the ousite you could see the entire chasis where shaking because of the big engine :)
For me the eg civic with k24 swap was more fun than a mk4 supra tt.
Thinking of the k20/k24
Any thoughts of my current setup. K24A2 engine
TSX camshafts
VTC camgear
RBC intake manifold
Civic Si ECU
i have an 07 tsx, trying to slowly save up money and buy stuff. i have a dc header and flp test pipe, 50 degree vtc, and rbc manifold just sitting around rn. have a pin set coming in for my vtc, hoping to do a custom single exit exhaust, and trying to save money for some skunk2 cams and hondata so i have a reason to put it all together. should really wake it the fuck up lmao
Sounds great!
they should put a new k24 twin scroll turbo inside the Honda CRZ make the car slightly lighter weight say 2600 lbs curb weight using more aluminum and slight more carbon fiber hood , roof etc. and give it a final drive ratio of about a 4:30 give it a new name called the CRZ TYPE R that purple color the crz comes in with all the type R accents in red would look awesome! probably 0 to 60 in about 4.7 seconds not bad
Sorry still can’t go wrong with a b20v and for those who don’t know what that is it’s a b20 block from a crv with a b16 head from a Honda Civic Si 👍 cheaper and plenty easy to work with
Until your timing belt snaps then you have to replace pistons and valves. Timing chain is more secure
Use kevlar timingbelt.
You could use a b18c1/5 head also but don’t be surprised when you crack a sleeve on a mildly modded b20v
Ty for uploading this I just bought a 06 accord coupe that has a k24 in it
i bought a 07 k24a2 engine for 350 you cant find a k20a2 for less than 1000.. your backwards on your prices
U can get a whole car i.e accord with k25 with MT in India about 1000 dollars infact u can do bargaining as well
Exactly 👍
thought I was the only one who noticed that.... k20s are harder to find and more expensive than k24s. You can find a k24 at almost any salvage yard for cheap, meaning less than 1000 easy.
@@vastaire81 only the eco vtec k24 is easy to find and cheap, but k24a2 which the cost double in price, I'm lucky to have one seating in my garage
Thank you for this, I need to get rid of my b16a and I’ve been looking at k20 and k24’s but wondered why there was such a price difference. I don’t know what I’m doing so a k20a sounds like the better choice for me.
If do the k20, better for holding boost plus you have a higher redline
Proud owner of a JDM EP3 Type R,
K20A motor revs to 9k, matched with the type R gears and helical LSD makes an absolutely amazing all around car.
JDM k20A shits on all other k series. Trust me
Still slow
truth. proud owner of a DC5 Type-R. such an amazing performing car. mine revs all the way out to 9500rpms. yeah a k24 would be nice for the low end but the high end of 9500rpms is some magic added to the driving experience. reminds me of a sport bike lol
So clean and easy to understand man 👏
K20Z3 says hi.
@Bryce Czirr Actually i made 157 torques with just and header's and a Tune with my Si
@Bryce Czirr you comment some of the dumbest shit. i seen you comment on a 300 hp NA k series build and you said" thats not even hard to do since most turbo 4 bangers these days make that already" lol
K20a2 says bye
Watching from Jamaica 🇯🇲 bro, k24 ripping the streets
So can you explain why people do a k20/k24 frank build? With combining the k20/k24 can you still rev high on it?
K20 heads are everywhere and fairly cheap and easy to work with, good k24 heads are hard to find and require more work, it was covered briefly in the video.
Got Crx with D16 dohc engine, blew a head gasket, going to rebuild it with better camshafts and adjustable timing wheels Got allready head ported and arp bolts ect, planning push 8500rpm and around 180-200whp. Novtec kicks in. 😉
MorreRacing Team thats sounds like it'll be a lot of fun. I've also got a d16a9 powered crx. And a spare engine which I am planning on building up at some point. Certainly never swapping a k series into mine. Great engines but not a fan of k swaps in crx's
I still got me a B18B1, non-VTEC and I still love it.
My 89 CRX HF only weighs 2600lbs.... so with a K24 and K20 head it will be flying basically! Good video and information!
K24 all damn day. More displacement and much more torque.
My Z3 poops all over your 24's
Aaron P but I like High revving Hondas.
HighSpeedEnthusiast Joining NASA's new team of space engineers to have a great view of earth so we can easily see who tf asked
k20z3 aint cheap compared to a k24 thats why most people swap when their z3 blows in their 8th gen Si [3k without the 6speed 5k with the 6speed]
Me personally ill stick with rebuilding mine always as long as i dont ever compromise the block and in that case id still source a new z3 block.
I just posted pretty much the same thing.
High HP k20, ie type s si, is way harder to find and costs much more than the TSX k24
But what would the internet be without misinformation lol.
Whats a realistic HP number for a K24/K20 head swap with a tune?
260-280
Just slap a turbo on it.
My 2010 Accord has the K24 engine and it's served me very well. 225K miles later and I've never done anything to her except for 1 new pair of spark plugs. The rest is all original. Full Synthetic Oil changes every 10K and she runs clean. Hoping to take her well over the 300K mark.
How about a b20v that’s better than both until you Frankenstein the k24 with the k20 head but B is better and cheaper with the same results
B20 is roughly 154 hp vs 200+ from k20 tho b20 is several hundred dollars cheaper so that plays a big part to your point.... For stock power definitely k series but to modify i will always go b series...
Isaac Cornelio mine is pulling 248 all motor stock internals skunk 2 headers skunk 2 intake manifold the only expensive part on my car is my stand alone ecu $1300 bucks but well worth it in a 4 door ek with a type r tranny bottom block is high compression
So lets say I have a 2011 crv k24 with 178k miles what should I do to it to get some extra power
Fiskey Floor it!
Looking to swap a K24 into my Miata, making it lighter than an S2000 and torquier (is that a word?) too.
Good job with these easy to understand videos and thank you.
K20 higher revving.... I'll go with that. K20 bore up . Now only if I had $10 K laying around. .
@Anonymous k24 with k20 valve train (still k24 head) and k20 oil pump will see 8500rpm
@Anonymous with stock oil pump and stock valve train 8200 is possible with a tune its still fairly high considering it has a very long stroke, if you want to see higher revs (8500) need k20a valve train and oil pump, i agree with you though, you wont be seeing more than 8200 with just a tune
K24a2 is my engine of choice when it comes to power, availability and price. You can put a oil pump from a type s and it will be able to rev to 8300, I've seen people run the limiter higher than that but I don't have that much confidence in the rod bolts
U shouldnt rev a k24 higher than 7800. All the ones here that rev up to 8500 have blown up in 2 or 3 track days. But theres 2 from the shop i take my car that have made countless track days revying just to 8000 for the past 2 years, only with frequent oil change and valve lash check
Put a ported k20 oil pump and build the engine right you can rev to over 9k all day long. Leave that stock k24 oil pump with balance shafts in there and your engine will be toast!
K24a2....best 4 cyl ever made.
Honda is going backwards with this "earth dreams" crap!
K series, in general, is the best designed inline 4 cylinder engine of all time so far....
The absolute truth
I've had both a k20z3 and a tsx K24A2 with both bolt ons on my Fa5 civic si and the K24 made it way better! The civic is almost 3,000 lbs so a K24 was needed imo but now that i have a CRZ EX ima b swapping in a K20Z3 since I believe it doesn't need a K24 torque since it will weigh about 2650 with the K20 swap so I guess both are good engines imo.
You're so eloquently articulate. 👍