@@SOB_Garage They dyno test it putting 100 miles on the transmission and 1 guy touches it...quick turnaround...hoonigans garage California uses them if that says anything.
New subscriber!! I just went through your channel and I love all the different topics. I’ll be binge watching tonight. And of course with some THUMBS UP!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I believe it to hold that much. I build mine with duel feed direct , sonnax boost valve, tcc valve and afl valve kit, shim to be tight, holds 800+ hp easy
Hey man just watched your channel for the first time Awesome build and just cause of 4l80 build I'm ordering the stuff to do mine own. I just subscribed, hope you get your 1k soon!
Unfortunately I haven't yet, I've been working on my AWD suspension and my turbo kit. Probably the end July or August before I get a video out on it. I will be building mine the way and with the largest trans cooler I can buy haha maybe a w/fan too. I'll order some parts very soon. Thanks for asking
Great video. I appreciate you telling viewers the truth about the PIT-A_S level it was. I will probably pay a shop to put my parts in my core as long as it cost no more than 3 digits.
69 chevelles/Camaros are the best looking GM cars. I had a friend and he had a 1969 SS396 Chevelle and It has been my dream car since I was 12 years old. I like the Chevelle a little better than the Camaro because they have a full frame that can be reinforced. Thanks!
@@SOB_GarageI followed your part list and added a few extra billet parts. I paid a shop an additional cash to put it together for me. I did not order the TQ converter as of yet because I’m not sure what stall rating to shoot for. I picked up a PSI 8.8L and waiting for the body shop to complete my paint job before I have it installed and running. Maybe another year or two.
Looks like you bought one of those ebay transmission mounts that you have to grind one of the legs down just so it will fit. I bought one too thinking it would work right out of the box.
The stock tune should work, but I do plan to have it tuned when I get the engine tuned soon. I’m running the terminator x max instead of the factory ecu because of all the other stuff like twin turbos and e85
@SOB_Garage I know that, and it also can decrease shift time and etc for optimal consistency, but unfortunately, I live in a state that now fails for having a tune. Sure, I revert the original ecu and tcm to the base setting. But that's a lot of work for a street car that (unfortunately don't have a garage or lift) to do this frequently
Good question John. I only plan to push around 750 rwhp so this should handle all of it easily. The motor was build for about 1500 hp (under 1000 with the current e85 injectors) but I plan to keep the boost low.
Everything in the auto industry is rated at torque (and number of cycles), not HP. You can't use hp to rate anything in the drivetrain. Transmission capacity HAS to be rated in torque, not horsepower. The transmission can live long at 1200hp but break easily in a 600hp car. One will make 505lb ft at 12,500rpm (1200hp car) and the other 1010lb ft at 6250rpm (600hp car) That's why you can't rate driveline parts in HP I'm an engineer in the auto industry BTW.
I appreciate you taking the time to give a dissertation on this. Those numbers are moot though. Show me examples of the 12,500 rpm engine bolted to a 4l80e making only 505 hp. Seems many manufacturers rate their parts in hp. Torque is easily calculated from hp. I’m a guy who builds cars for fun in his garage and not on a computer screen or a calculator BTW.
@@SOB_Garage I understand what you are saying, and appreciate the reply. I sincerely wasn't bagging on you or your work. I was just giving some insight from an OEM perspective so others understand that 1200hp isn't the same in all cases. I think what I've seen of your stuff is great. If I was to say it simply it's this. "The amount of twist, for how long, for how many times is what matters. HP is not a measurement of twist/force, TQ is." HP is actually calculated FROM TQ. Think of it like this TQ is a hammer blow, HP is how many times a minute that happens. Make sense? Knowing how many times a minute the hammer hits the spike doesn't tell us squat except how fast it will get driven in. (HP) The actual force of the blow (TQ) is what we need to know to design a hammer to take the repeated pounding. You will NEVER find anything in a driveline designed by an OEM rated by HP. HP is a derivative and not a constant. They rate things in TQ capacity and number of cycles it has to take that TQ before failure. The aftermarket is totally different. They are not designing things to last 100,000 miles under warranty. They use terms people are more familiar with like HP to sell product. (Even if it's wrong.) It's more of an educated guess. Most guys who are buying the input shaft in your build will have a V8 (Or possibly a straight/V 6) under boost or a ton of nitrous and produce that 1200hp somewhere between 6400 to 7400rpm. Just like using the formula HP = TQ x RPM/5252 to find HP from a known TQ figure, you can back out the torque from a known HP and RPM figure. So they can guess the 1200 HP motor will most likely make peak torque of 1150 to 1400lb ft of torque between 4400-5400rpm and that's what they use to rate the part "1200 hp". I've done this stuff for a living, believe me no one is rating parts in "hp" behind the scenes.
1,200hp is thrown around so loosely these days. A real 1,000 wheel hp street car that gets driven especially if its over 3500 lbs and making it live for more than a few months is not the easiest task.
Good luck to you, my 4l80e has been perfect for the last year right at 750 wheel and 3,300 lbs but a few months ago I turned it up to around 825 going off how much fuel it’s using and now I have broken the trans twice so far. I blame a lot on the fact the car hooks very well on the street. But ill take a busted transmission over a hurt engine any day of the week lol.
Not sure how you built it for u set 1200$ when the stall converter runs close to 1200$ and a bullet input is close to 300$ and the rebuild kit is 800$, idk that’s 2300$ without fluid, billet forward hub, rollerized rear output, afl kit, TCC kit, shift kit, etc Great video but that’s a 2500$ parts list with rebates brother 😜
I guess if you count the stall as part of the trans, then yes it was more. But I don’t consider a stall as part of the trans. Most built trans do not come with a trans - they are extra.
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Great video! We appreciate your business.
Thanks!
@@SOB_Garagegearstar transmissions...
@@dalehall2993 is that who built yours or did they sell some parts for you to build it?
@@SOB_Garage
I took it too them..6l80 level 4 im in ohio about 2hrs away from them...
@@SOB_Garage
They dyno test it putting 100 miles on the transmission and 1 guy touches it...quick turnaround...hoonigans garage California uses them if that says anything.
Dont forget a good cooler and proper trans tune
No doubt. Got one under the car.
Im mixing up the Transgo and sonnax shift kits in my a604 those expander wires on the input shaft and the kevlar seals on the input shaft is a charm
Nice mons!
New subscriber!! I just went through your channel and I love all the different topics. I’ll be binge watching tonight. And of course with some THUMBS UP!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks so much!!! I really appreciate the support
I believe it to hold that much. I build mine with duel feed direct , sonnax boost valve, tcc valve and afl valve kit, shim to be tight, holds 800+ hp easy
I agree Gumby. These transmissions will take a beating when built right for sure.
Hey man just watched your channel for the first time Awesome build and just cause of 4l80 build I'm ordering the stuff to do mine own. I just subscribed, hope you get your 1k soon!
Thanks so much!!!
Have you build the transmission yet? Before i spend 1200$ on this i would like a second option
Unfortunately I haven't yet, I've been working on my AWD suspension and my turbo kit. Probably the end July or August before I get a video out on it. I will be building mine the way and with the largest trans cooler I can buy haha maybe a w/fan too. I'll order some parts very soon. Thanks for asking
Wouldn't mind seeing the whole rebuild if you take it apart again. Or a 4wd to 2wd conversion.
That’s good to know! Hopefully I won’t have to pull this one apart again.
Great video. I appreciate you telling viewers the truth about the PIT-A_S level it was. I will probably pay a shop to put my parts in my core as long as it cost no more than 3 digits.
Smart! Let me know how much it costs!
69 chevelles/Camaros are the best looking GM cars. I had a friend and he had a 1969 SS396 Chevelle and It has been my dream car since I was 12 years old. I like the Chevelle a little better than the Camaro because they have a full frame that can be reinforced.
Thanks!
Thanks Chamber! Me too. My frame is reinforced. It’s almost finished and I will miss it I’m sure.
Thank you for a nice video. I picked up all the parts to try and build my junkyard 4l80.
That’s awesome! Let me know how it goes for you
So how did your rebuild go?
@@SOB_GarageI followed your part list and added a few extra billet parts. I paid a shop an additional cash to put it together for me. I did not order the TQ converter as of yet because I’m not sure what stall rating to shoot for. I picked up a PSI 8.8L and waiting for the body shop to complete my paint job before I have it installed and running. Maybe another year or two.
Great work!
Thanks Jamie! Really appreciate it
Looks like you bought one of those ebay transmission mounts that you have to grind one of the legs down just so it will fit. I bought one too thinking it would work right out of the box.
I can’t remember where I bought the mount, but I didn’t have to modify it at all to use.
Can you add a link to the holder for the transmission? The ones I can find say will not fit 4L80E or GM powerglide without modifications.
I’ll see what I can do for you.
Will you need a new tune? Or will the regular TCM base tune work just fine?
The stock tune should work, but I do plan to have it tuned when I get the engine tuned soon. I’m running the terminator x max instead of the factory ecu because of all the other stuff like twin turbos and e85
@SOB_Garage I see thanks for the insight so the only reason to tune the trans is if the engine pcm is tuned. I only asked because I live in NY
@@bryanleal9836tuning will let you change many features like shift points and etc I think. I’d talk with your local trans tuner
@SOB_Garage I know that, and it also can decrease shift time and etc for optimal consistency, but unfortunately, I live in a state that now fails for having a tune. Sure, I revert the original ecu and tcm to the base setting. But that's a lot of work for a street car that (unfortunately don't have a garage or lift) to do this frequently
@@SOB_Garage but thanks for taking your time to respond
Subbed! Thanks brother.
Thanks for the sub Kevin!
How much horse power can a stock 4l80e hold?
That’s a good question. I’d say 400-600 probably depending on many factors like vehicle weight, tire grip etc
Looks good does it function
That’s a good question Michelle. I haven’t fired up the car yet
Great video man just subscribed I’m the 999th hope u get to 1k!
Haha. I got the lucky 1k!
Thanks! Each subscriber counts!
Thanks! I’ve been trying to get to 1.,000!
Will this fit just a 4L80 to ? & not the e
I’m not sure to be honest
are you in Texas?
Nope
It can handle 1200 hp but for how long? Thats the real question
Man I wish I had the answer! After I drive it I’ll let everyone know for sure.
This is cool… now how do i make it a 6 speed?
You take it out and use a 6L80.
There was a place that made a valve body for that. For some reason it's disappeared so read from that what you will.
@@SOB_Garage lol
What do you recommend for a 1500hp
1991 4l80e
That’s a whole different level my friend. I’d see what companies are selling as a trans rated that much and do the same thing probably.
What would you recommend for a 1300 build. 1500 hp are $2500kits.
Great job
Thanks for watching hing the video and commenting LC
Billet main shaft and transbrake future plans?
Good question John. I only plan to push around 750 rwhp so this should handle all of it easily. The motor was build for about 1500 hp (under 1000 with the current e85 injectors) but I plan to keep the boost low.
👍
Thanks
Freakin awesome!
Thanks Isabella!
Can this really handle +1k
Well, in theory. Check back on the build and I’ll let you know Bryce. I hope to be driving it in 3-6 months
@@SOB_Garage can’t wait to see how it turns out! Best of luck sir 🫡
@@Kingedward5 thanks! I hope it helps others either way. What to do or what not to do 🤣
The paint makes the transmission run hot
That's why the case is made of cast aluminum just like air cooled engines
Lead also makes people stupid when they eat it but it didn’t stop you.
I think they make the case out of cast aluminum because it's cheap and fast.
The transmission has cooler lines for a reason. To cool it.
Awww shit excuse my language but I think your my transmission sensei
Haha! Thanks and I hope it helps
This is a great video!! Don’t know if I’m smart enough to tackle this myself but it’s certainly a start.
Thats a right angle impact, not a ratchet. Just fyi
Oops! 🤣🤣🤣
Everything in the auto industry is rated at torque (and number of cycles), not HP. You can't use hp to rate anything in the drivetrain. Transmission capacity HAS to be rated in torque, not horsepower. The transmission can live long at 1200hp but break easily in a 600hp car. One will make 505lb ft at 12,500rpm (1200hp car) and the other 1010lb ft at 6250rpm (600hp car) That's why you can't rate driveline parts in HP
I'm an engineer in the auto industry BTW.
I appreciate you taking the time to give a dissertation on this. Those numbers are moot though. Show me examples of the 12,500 rpm engine bolted to a 4l80e making only 505 hp.
Seems many manufacturers rate their parts in hp.
Torque is easily calculated from hp.
I’m a guy who builds cars for fun in his garage and not on a computer screen or a calculator BTW.
@@SOB_Garage I understand what you are saying, and appreciate the reply. I sincerely wasn't bagging on you or your work. I was just giving some insight from an OEM perspective so others understand that 1200hp isn't the same in all cases. I think what I've seen of your stuff is great.
If I was to say it simply it's this. "The amount of twist, for how long, for how many times is what matters. HP is not a measurement of twist/force, TQ is." HP is actually calculated FROM TQ. Think of it like this TQ is a hammer blow, HP is how many times a minute that happens. Make sense? Knowing how many times a minute the hammer hits the spike doesn't tell us squat except how fast it will get driven in. (HP) The actual force of the blow (TQ) is what we need to know to design a hammer to take the repeated pounding.
You will NEVER find anything in a driveline designed by an OEM rated by HP. HP is a derivative and not a constant. They rate things in TQ capacity and number of cycles it has to take that TQ before failure. The aftermarket is totally different. They are not designing things to last 100,000 miles under warranty. They use terms people are more familiar with like HP to sell product. (Even if it's wrong.) It's more of an educated guess.
Most guys who are buying the input shaft in your build will have a V8 (Or possibly a straight/V 6) under boost or a ton of nitrous and produce that 1200hp somewhere between 6400 to 7400rpm. Just like using the formula HP = TQ x RPM/5252 to find HP from a known TQ figure, you can back out the torque from a known HP and RPM figure. So they can guess the 1200 HP motor will most likely make peak torque of 1150 to 1400lb ft of torque between 4400-5400rpm and that's what they use to rate the part "1200 hp". I've done this stuff for a living, believe me no one is rating parts in "hp" behind the scenes.
1,200hp is thrown around so loosely these days.
A real 1,000 wheel hp street car that gets driven
especially if its over 3500 lbs and making it live for more than a few months is not the easiest task.
Sure. But my 69 Chevelle was 3200 originally and isn’t a daily driver. And like I said I’ll be at around 750 unless I turn up the boost.
Good luck to you, my 4l80e has been perfect for the last year right at 750 wheel and 3,300 lbs
but a few months ago I turned it up to around 825 going off how much fuel it’s using and now I have broken the trans twice so far.
I blame a lot on the fact the car hooks very well on the street. But ill take a busted transmission over a hurt engine any day of the week lol.
What broke?
yall do mine
Sorry 3d that’s probably the only one I’ll ever do 🤣
Did the math on that and your linked parts total well over $1200 😢
Not sure how you came up with that buddy unless you’re counting other stuff than the rebuild.
Rebuild kit $550
Input shaft $248
Sonnax $162
@@SOB_GaragePrices went up on some of the parts.
Rebuild kit 780
Input shaft 480
Sonnax 170
tell your buddy to stay home , he was a better door than a window , couldn't see what you were doing with meathead in the way
🤣🤣🤣
Pick an arbitrary HP number and claim it 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Yep. Post a reply video after you build it and it doesn’t hold up to the claimed power 🤣🤣🤣
Yeah I can easily spend $1,200 in under 10 minutes as well. But can't stand the video brother
I understand. What would you change to make it more entertaining? I’m always looking for advice.
Not sure how you built it for u set 1200$ when the stall converter runs close to 1200$ and a bullet input is close to 300$ and the rebuild kit is 800$, idk that’s 2300$ without fluid, billet forward hub, rollerized rear output, afl kit, TCC kit, shift kit, etc
Great video but that’s a 2500$ parts list with rebates brother 😜
I guess if you count the stall as part of the trans, then yes it was more. But I don’t consider a stall as part of the trans. Most built trans do not come with a trans - they are extra.