Waterproofing basement wall crack and leak with hydraulic cement.
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- Опубликовано: 27 дек 2020
- This video shows how to prepare and fix a leak in your basement wall from locating the leak, prepping the surface, exposing the crack, and sealing the leak with hydraulic cement. A common scraper and a rotary hammer drill were used. credit www.bensound.com for soundtrack.
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You can do all the scraping and Band-Aids on the inside until you take care of the water on the outside and get it away from the foundation It's going to come back You have to get the water away from the wall. Another solution is to drill a shallow well on the outside 10:15 ft away from the wall. Then start pumping but you're not going to do that in the winter.
Yes. Unfortunately, the neighbors aren’t cooperative. The outside is a sidewalk.
great job! im a new home owner and you make alot of sense with your explanations and diagnosis. thank you for sharing this real life example :D i just completed a small scale project like this and it was so worthwhile and satisfying... hopefully i can provide update in a few weeks on how my DIY project went :)
Hey thanks for the kind words. GL with your project! Dean.
Good review. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
I'd be concerned about the foundation. That's just a bandaid. That's a crevasse
Going on almost a year and all is well. That wall is more than 12 inches thick. The crack is only about an inch deep at it's worst spot. It looks worse on camera. Thanks for watching. Dean.
@@deanvandress4693 How old is the bank? If its a century or more that is a settling crack on the foundation. If the wall is 12 inches thick as so claimed, and this looks to be poured concrete? It will not be bowing in from the water table ponding against the foundation exterior. It looks like the crack is right below a structural I-beam, so that explains your crack. What you are scraping off the wall is what is called a parge coating, and that is old school trick that masons used to try and stymie water infiltration. It does work for some time, but it can not and will not stop water flowing through the cracks and pushing up against it. It will just continue to collect water between the parging and the wall. You have to seal the crack first. Cracks this deep I would have pinned and used injection epoxy sealant before doing a hydraulic cement seal over top.
@@MrWolfSnack It would also help immensely if he addressed the water before it hits the wall.
@@bsrcat1 Yes. The grade and slope of the land outside might be funneling water directly to the wall. Would need to hire a land surveyor/geologist to examine the property and figure out where all the water is sloughing to.
It looks like it needs to be fixed from the outside first. The inside is just cosmetic.
Watch the 1 year update video. Turned out great. Thanks for watching!
can you use this material for tuck pointing
You probably want to use mortar for tuck pointing bricks or blocks. This material is cement, which is harder than mortar. Also, this material will harden very fast, so you will only want to use it in small batches IMO.
As you seal off the wall water builds and rises. It will just come out some where else. The water source needs to be removed if possible
True. Unfortunately, there are non-cooperative neighbors, so that option isn't available in this situation. The best solution is to prevent the water from intruding into the basement and allow it to absorb naturally into the ground. Thanks for watching!
Buy a bush hamer.
You sorta sound like Ryan Reynolds
Lol really. Like Deadpool?
@@deanvandress4693 I'd imagine if you tried hard enough you could pull it off perfectly, you have the right potential to make a Ryan Reynolds asmr lmao
If this is dry lock it was not prepped right at all
It wasn’t drylock.
I think that hydraulic cement is junk!
I mean the waterproofing company I work for uses it and from experience it works well, easy to make, and cures quickly. Great tool to use to fill in chunks of missing concrete too as it acts like it when it hardens. In this case there was good bits of concrete removed to reveal the water coming through.
It has a purpose, but does not solve the actual issue. Either fix the entrance point of the water (outside, $$$) or attempt an injection of polyurethane and hope it seeps well into the crack and all the way to the outside. Poly will flex a little with seasonal changes and help keep the water out. Hydraulic cement will crack again and does nothing to solve the deeper issue in the wall. I only use it to patch *after* the water source is found and fixed.
I was thinking about doing the poly injection (and can still go back and do that if necessary in the future), but I specifically wanted to try the 'slurry' method I did on this crack. I was hoping that I could drill some holes into the crack area and pour a slurry mix from the inside of the basement to have the slurry get to the outside of the crack and fill and coat the outside of the wall. Excavating outside would be very difficult because it's a commercial building with about 2 to 3 feet of access (and cost a lot of money). So far, thankfully, the slurry method (which I completely made up based on what engineers did in Boston for the big dig tunnel system) and the patching has held up surprisingly well for about $15.00 in product and my time of course. I did a one year follow-up video showing it dry and no cracks. Thanks for watching! If I do a poly job, I'll post a video about that.
@@deanvandress4693 " I did a one year follow-up video showing it dry and no cracks." Yes one year. Doesn't mean it couldn't fail in 10, 15, 30 years. That's a bit way too huge for hydro cement to fix. I would have hired a structural engineer first for damage this bad to make sure the building is not in danger of collapse, over a sinkhole or similar. Those bore holes need to be filled first.
Talk to much
You used the wrong "to". You should have used the word "too". You talk too much is proper. If you are going to insult me, at least use the proper words.
At the moment he says "I'm not a professional" turn this video off and higher one... If you care about your home or insurance you will NOT do anything this guy says lol
wow. that's a little harsh. fyi the repair is working great and is holding up just fine. the wall is a foot thick and the crack was barely and inch to an inch and a half at some parts that was soft, so what i did was a complete improvement. there are millions and millions of diy guys who do good work. your comment is just ignorant.