I just finished using this system. I had a crack from floor to ceiling and it traveled between 2 joist bays. They say removing studs is not required, I would do it. Otherwise, you will get leaks when you inject the Hydra Stop. Everything worked exactly like this video shows without a single issue. When injecting the Hydra Stop it does get a little messy, make sure you have the plastic down on the floor for that step. Also make sure your plugs are in all the way! The Hydra Stop will continue to expand well-after you are done and can push the plug out if it's not all the way in. Happened to me and luckily I was standing right there. I replaced it and tapped them all with a hammer to make sure they were all the way in. We'll see how well it works, but I feel confident that it penetrated the entire crack. So far, I recommend.
I bought this product.i also tested epoxy with waterproof foam. 8years later, same results. The s1E did get a small seep 3 months ago. Did the epoxy coat inside and injected that great stuff waterproof, so far so good. And it was cheaper. Since from what I’m reading this has a 10-20 year life. I will polyurethane seal the out side of crack. I was looking for a permanent seal when I purchased. O well
I did the same thing with bondo and plastic straws cut to 1" lengths and held in place with toothpicks in the crack while the bondo hardens around the straws. The straws are 6" apart. Use cement crack filler tube from Lowe's in an ordinary caulk gun, inserted into each straw, Go from bottom to top of crack. Finish with 6 coats UGL waterproof paint. Been leak tight for 11 years now
I just did this on a very narrow crack that did leak a lot of water and I'm just waiting for it to rain. The only issues I had was injecting water into that narrow crack. It would just run out. So what i did was just inject the water with my mouth using a a little pressure. That worked well and I could judge how much water I injected. Maybe if the water bottle had a 90 degree tube it would work better. Waiting to see if I'm successful because if I get 2 inches or more of rain in a short time I get lots of water in my basement. Grrrrr.
Hi.. thanks for the video... Question: why we inject the water, isn't the water will stay and prevent the sealant from flowing??? and how long after the water we can inject the sealant??
I'm looking for the technic to seal inside corner wall, any knows any videos or other infos ? This corner is in fact an old basement that has been extended so it is not a real crack but a joint between an old and a newer wall (done over 20 years ago), there was metal bracket, sealant and waterproofing from the outside but is probably worn from the time... the only technic i'm finding on the internet is cracks on a flat wall... do you think i will have to seal the corner joint and drill at 45 degrees and use thoses holes for the plugs ?
Anyone know where I can get this stuff nowadays, or something similar? I've checked the usual places and stores. Most carry the sika brand caulk like sealers, but not the injection kits.
After the resin cures and dries, can the paste and ports be removed from the wall with a putty knife or something like that or would that negate the whole process? And if they can, is it hard to do/leave a lot of residue on the wall?
Did you test the ports before you started filling them with the epoxy.... meaning using the small bottle of water at the top ensuring all ports excreted water?
In what application would you use foam over epoxy? Does it merely come down to costs or does foam have an advantage over epoxy? I am considering expoxy for my basement wall cracks that are minor (less than 1/2" side)
In this case, you may want to inject in the port above, allowing gravity to pull the foam downward toward the adjacent port if this is happening at just one location. The crack is probably too wide for the distance between the ports. Of course, you could also add a port between the two but if you are underway I would try the port above first.
2 месяца назад
This method has a big issue. Most of time, the glue will NOT make it all the way OUTSIDE the wall due to too low of pressure from the glue gun. As the result, the outside half of the wall will soaked with water for a long period of time because it cannot leaks inside anymore. The soaked area after a long period of time will disintegrate and result in a huge/permeant foundation damage. Either you make sure the glue goes ALL the way outside or get a high pressure solution. Wish this helps.
Agree ! When I saw those flimsy plastic tubes for inserting the substance, I thought "here we go" the best method is to use the professional kind which act like a grease nipple ie. the substance can only flow in one direction and you can get much more pressure to force the sealant all the way through to the outside.
I odered the ten foot Crack repair kit from a dew weeks ago The one I rdered is not for leaking Crack I ordered the one to strengthen the Crack I see in this video you say to add water first with a squirt bottle Do I need to do that also? Or is that only for a different epoxy?
You do not need to squirt water into the crack when using the epoxy. You do when using the Hydra Stop 300 polyurethane which is what is used in this video
@@rondail5675 I see now that the video said, "Start within 4-inches of the bottom of the crack." That may be fine because the material will flow downward as well as upward, but I would personally start very near the bottom.
I’m installing an outdoor boiler system and will be cutting a 4 inch hole in my foundation to put a 4 inch corrugated pipe through that carries my waterlines. I will have a little gap around the pipe. This should still get the job done wouldn’t you think? I plan to cut the hole just big enough to put the pipe through.
How does this penetrate the crack by sitting flush against it? This seems like it just seals the surface. You need to drill the crack, this system is whack.
My basement wall was previously sealed with tar the cracks re emerged and water is leaking again can I put the epoxy over the tar or should da tar be scraped off or somehow remove before the epoxy and ports are put on?
You must scrape off and remove all tar from the crack, use a chisel and widen the crack, and use hydrolic cement. www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/hydraulic-cement-leaky-basements
Can this be used in a basement concrete wall around a water pipe that enters the house. I had the main line repaired, but the when it rains I get water in around the pipe.
I've flipped over 500 houses in the last 17 years and have used this and similar products on at least 20 houses. It's simple and I teach my renovation crews how to do it. As long as the wall is structurally sound, this is a permanent and effective method to repair cracks and prevent water intrusion from them. Follow the directions EXACTLY or the results will fail. On a poured concrete wall, this will protect the rebar inside the wall to keep the foundation structurally sound. I don't think this would work on a hollow concrete block wall and have never attempted it.
So is this product used to stop water leaks or strengthen the wall, or both? My basement is dry but I have older cracks which I want to seal with an epoxy or something that will help strengthen the wall. Any suggestions?
This is for waterproofing. All concrete cracks when it cures and it doesn't necessarily mean you have a problem. If your concrete is cracking significantly because of some issue with your footings, then no amount of fix will stop that.
Hi, the kit looks good! Would this kit apply if I just have cracks but no water penetration? Will your epoxy keep the crack from spreading further? Thanks!
It definitely would not, you'll need that professionally checked because the crack is likely longer than what is currently visible in daylight, and could require a specific fix
The water also helps the concrete absorb the chemicals being that concrete is NOT a vapor barrier. Wetting it soaks in more product deeper into its pores
then why does the crack have to be dry to do this? I've been trying to stop a leak for years and the crack never really completely dries before the next rain. I've used quickrite water stop cement because my crack is really wide and even that hasnt worked. trying flex seal products now. getting frustrated.
@@jimmie1142 The crack probably needs to be dry so the epoxy can hold the ports in place... Maybe you could use hydraulic cement to hold the ports in place and then it doesn't need to be dry.
Because epoxy strengthen after 10-15 minutes, and in video it says to wait that period of time before you start injecting tube paste to cracks via ports. Other then that paste from tube would simply comes out from crack and you would not be able to fill in cracks.
There is one KEY FACTOR that is not mentioned in this video. You should determine what caused the crack. If you don't the crack may expand and leak again. Cracks are an indication of a potentially significant structural problem.
I found a quick and easy way to fix a crack in my cellar wall. I used a hot glue gun and it worked like a champ. It is quick and easy to do and if you need to buy a hot glue gun they are cheap and good to have around.
Epoxy doesn't stop water leaks. Epoxy is used for structural repair. I really hope you guys don't waterproof like this. if you do please tell me where your located so i can come take all your business. Leave waterproofing to the professionals
@@ryanscott1989 putting epoxy t rep your ports is a joke. ive been doing this for 27 years. you have zero idea on how to inject polyurethane e. try not to embarrass yourself on a public forum. anytime you wanna go toe to toe and debate how to inject polyurethane you let me know.
I just finished using this system. I had a crack from floor to ceiling and it traveled between 2 joist bays. They say removing studs is not required, I would do it. Otherwise, you will get leaks when you inject the Hydra Stop. Everything worked exactly like this video shows without a single issue. When injecting the Hydra Stop it does get a little messy, make sure you have the plastic down on the floor for that step. Also make sure your plugs are in all the way! The Hydra Stop will continue to expand well-after you are done and can push the plug out if it's not all the way in. Happened to me and luckily I was standing right there. I replaced it and tapped them all with a hammer to make sure they were all the way in. We'll see how well it works, but I feel confident that it penetrated the entire crack. So far, I recommend.
Well, 2 year review?
Yo review?
Thanks for the suggestions. Your experience will save me learning the hard way. Any other suggestions/recommendations?
Great video and comments. Been waterproofing basements walls for years and never repaired concrete walls like this. Best stuff use it
I used used this product during the early part of fall 2018. As of Jan. 3 2019, no water has gotten in. Worked perfectly.
Can you paint over it?
@@raidergainzx5290 I haven't tried, so I'm not sure. Sorry.
@WorldRenownedCFE 🎤 It was the expanding foam.
Still no leaks?
I bought this product.i also tested epoxy with waterproof foam. 8years later, same results. The s1E did get a small seep 3 months ago. Did the epoxy coat inside and injected that great stuff waterproof, so far so good. And it was cheaper. Since from what I’m reading this has a 10-20 year life. I will polyurethane seal the out side of crack. I was looking for a permanent seal when I purchased. O well
I did the same thing with bondo and plastic straws cut to 1" lengths and
held in place with toothpicks in the crack while the bondo hardens
around the straws. The straws are 6" apart. Use cement crack filler tube
from Lowe's in an ordinary caulk gun, inserted into each straw, Go
from bottom to top of crack. Finish with 6 coats UGL waterproof paint.
Been leak tight for 11 years now
fred farkel how did you keep the cement crack filler from leaking out of the straws before it hardened?
Review?
The proxy I got is very thick and hard to squeeze out from the tube, unlike the one in the video. It makes the application a lot harder.
Same. I just did the poxy last night and it was nearly impossible to get out of the tube.
You should do a new updated process review. I just ordered today. Looks good to me.
I just did this on a very narrow crack that did leak a lot of water and I'm just waiting for it to rain. The only issues I had was injecting water into that narrow crack. It would just run out. So what i did was just inject the water with my mouth using a a little pressure. That worked well and I could judge how much water I injected. Maybe if the water bottle had a 90 degree tube it would work better. Waiting to see if I'm successful because if I get 2 inches or more of rain in a short time I get lots of water in my basement. Grrrrr.
Have you had any water in your basement after using this product?
Update?
Hi.. thanks for the video... Question: why we inject the water, isn't the water will stay and prevent the sealant from flowing??? and how long after the water we can inject the sealant??
You inject immediately after injecting water. The water activates the foam.
Thanks for the answer, please let me know how to deal with the water leak at the bottom corner where the wall meets the floor ???@@aaronkuertz6012
Well done, video would be a good learning tool for anyone trying it yourself. Thanks, for the help
Do you need to make a v-groove (using a chisel or power tool) if the crack is a hairline crack?
Good question but no answer!! Other products/Mfr's showed V-ing out. Did you learn and find what works?
Had this done 10 years ago. Just starting to re-leak. They are coming back next week to see if they can repair it.
10 years is pretty solid
@Mekhi Beckett Yea, I've been watching on Kaldrostream for since december myself =)
@@mekhibeckett7847 And don't vote for Drumpf!
@@nonyafkinbznes1420 Vote for anyone except Biden!!! Please!!!!
My question is if this is already installed and after a few years they leak to do you fix , is there a video on this thanks
Should I use a Chisel or an angle Grinder like suggested in other videos to open the crack?
No you do not.
I'm looking for the technic to seal inside corner wall, any knows any videos or other infos ? This corner is in fact an old basement that has been extended so it is not a real crack but a joint between an old and a newer wall (done over 20 years ago), there was metal bracket, sealant and waterproofing from the outside but is probably worn from the time... the only technic i'm finding on the internet is cracks on a flat wall... do you think i will have to seal the corner joint and drill at 45 degrees and use thoses holes for the plugs ?
Anyone know where I can get this stuff nowadays, or something similar? I've checked the usual places and stores. Most carry the sika brand caulk like sealers, but not the injection kits.
I purchased this kit from Amazon It was fast delivery and received it next day
After the resin cures and dries, can the paste and ports be removed from the wall with a putty knife or something like that or would that negate the whole process? And if they can, is it hard to do/leave a lot of residue on the wall?
You can remove the paste with a hammer and chisel
what happens if water never flows through to the lower port?
i have the same question
Did you test the ports before you started filling them with the epoxy.... meaning using the small bottle of water at the top ensuring all ports excreted water?
In what application would you use foam over epoxy? Does it merely come down to costs or does foam have an advantage over epoxy? I am considering expoxy for my basement wall cracks that are minor (less than 1/2" side)
You use epoxy in structural cracks.
What do you do if the crack is ok exterior ?
I have a rock pocket that sits in between pours that is leaking. Would this be able to fill that in, or is it too rough?
There must be a crack or open space for the polyurethane to go into
@@aaronkuertz6012 if I were to chisel out the loose rocks and there was a gap 1" - 2" wide, would that be too large to fill in?
@@snorman1911This is not the correct repair method for that
I used this method but the resin never came to the upper injection port. I guess it went straight through the crack. Any suggestions?
I think both sides need to be sealed
In this case, you may want to inject in the port above, allowing gravity to pull the foam downward toward the adjacent port if this is happening at just one location. The crack is probably too wide for the distance between the ports. Of course, you could also add a port between the two but if you are underway I would try the port above first.
This method has a big issue. Most of time, the glue will NOT make it all the way OUTSIDE the wall due to too low of pressure from the glue gun. As the result, the outside half of the wall will soaked with water for a long period of time because it cannot leaks inside anymore. The soaked area after a long period of time will disintegrate and result in a huge/permeant foundation damage. Either you make sure the glue goes ALL the way outside or get a high pressure solution. Wish this helps.
Agree ! When I saw those flimsy plastic tubes for inserting the substance, I thought "here we go" the best method is to use the professional kind which act like a grease nipple ie. the substance can only flow in one direction and you can get much more pressure to force the sealant all the way through to the outside.
I odered the ten foot Crack repair kit from a dew weeks ago
The one I rdered is not for leaking Crack I ordered the one to strengthen the Crack
I see in this video you say to add water first with a squirt bottle
Do I need to do that also?
Or is that only for a different epoxy?
You do not need to squirt water into the crack when using the epoxy. You do when using the Hydra Stop 300 polyurethane which is what is used in this video
@@aaronkuertz6012 Thank you!!
How would this work on a crack where concrete wall meets concrete floor?
We don't recommend using it on that kind of crack
Will this work with rock foundations as well ????
I highly recommend that you put the bottom port as close to the bottom as possible, not 6-inches up as in the video.
It said 4 inches I believe. Do you recommend right to the bottom?
@@rondail5675 I see now that the video said, "Start within 4-inches of the bottom of the crack." That may be fine because the material will flow downward as well as upward, but I would personally start very near the bottom.
what keeps this product from going out the back of the crack(outside)
The soil on the other side against the foundation keeps the material in the crack. If there is no soil, then you apply more Poxy Paste
Thanks, great job & nice clear video
It's a great video. I know this method, it 's easy to fix rather than outside this foundation. Thanks.
So use Flexseal.. if it's wet.. it won't matter
How do you do this for a crack in the floor?, start anywhere? at one end, etc?
YOu cannot use it for a floor crack.
@@Applied1313 is it necessary to repair a floor crack?
Should I seal crack with proxy paste from the outside first no minimize the oozing out of polyurethane?
Why not inject from the outside as well?
Because the Hydra Stop 300 flows all the way through the wall.
@@aaronkuertz6012 Impressive. Very nice.
would this work on a garage interior wall crack that extends to exterior with stucco on interior/exterior over cement block
I’m installing an outdoor boiler system and will be cutting a 4 inch hole in my foundation to put a 4 inch corrugated pipe through that carries my waterlines. I will have a little gap around the pipe. This should still get the job done wouldn’t you think? I plan to cut the hole just big enough to put the pipe through.
You will need more material than what is in the kit for a 4" pipe.
It worked!
4:44 drop of water from the outlet ....
How does this penetrate the crack by sitting flush against it? This seems like it just seals the surface. You need to drill the crack, this system is whack.
The Hydra Stop 300 goes inside the crack. We have been selling this system for twenty years with many professional contractors as customers.
Ty THAT WAS VERY HELPFUL
Can the epoxy paste be removed along with the plugs after the repair has dried?
Michael Pantojas yes
My basement wall was previously sealed with tar the cracks re emerged and water is leaking again can I put the epoxy over the tar or should da tar be scraped off or somehow remove before the epoxy and ports are put on?
You must scrape off and remove all tar from the crack, use a chisel and widen the crack, and use hydrolic cement. www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/hydraulic-cement-leaky-basements
how do you get the corners?
The kit includes corner ports
Can this be used in a basement concrete wall around a water pipe that enters the house. I had the main line repaired, but the when it rains I get water in around the pipe.
+James Maxwell
Yes it can. Place the corner ports into the gap around the pipe and then inject as normal.
why not mix an elastic solution in the concrete when you build the house ?
What is the best way to dry the crack out before starting the repair?
Don't trust a fart.
Water can be in the crack. For Epoxy paste purposes, the wall itself cannot be wet. I recommend a heat gun.
@@dlnsolutionsfoundationrepa8435 Thanks, makes since.
My crack was repaired this way by reopened
fantastic
are this materials available here in the Philippines..thanks
Abe Jucar what do u guys use in p.i.?
Is this safe to use around a PVC sewer pipe in my basement?
Yes, but it will take more than what is in the kit. Maybe get two kits.
Do you ship to Canada?
I've flipped over 500 houses in the last 17 years and have used this and similar products on at least 20 houses.
It's simple and I teach my renovation crews how to do it.
As long as the wall is structurally sound, this is a permanent and effective method to repair cracks and prevent water intrusion from them.
Follow the directions EXACTLY or the results will fail.
On a poured concrete wall, this will protect the rebar inside the wall to keep the foundation structurally sound.
I don't think this would work on a hollow concrete block wall and have never attempted it.
Does it work for brick wall?
Where can I buy the product you used in the video?
Thanks for asking. To purchase the kit please click the link right below the red Subscribe button.
Is the product available in india.
Can I go to Home Depot and buy it
no..
So is this product used to stop water leaks or strengthen the wall, or both? My basement is dry but I have older cracks which I want to seal with an epoxy or something that will help strengthen the wall. Any suggestions?
This is for waterproofing. All concrete cracks when it cures and it doesn't necessarily mean you have a problem. If your concrete is cracking significantly because of some issue with your footings, then no amount of fix will stop that.
what if the water doesn't flow to the next port and that next port is clear from the epoxy 300?
it is ok if you do not see water come out of each port. You just want water in the crack to make the hydra Stop 300 react.
Hi, the kit looks good! Would this kit apply if I just have cracks but no water penetration? Will your epoxy keep the crack from spreading further?
Thanks!
It definitely would not, you'll need that professionally checked because the crack is likely longer than what is currently visible in daylight, and could require a specific fix
How do we do this for horizontal cracks?
Start at one end of the crack and proceed from there. Thank you for asking.
so this isn't a fix for integrity but water proofing?
Duh
my leaks in the corners
how do i do this???
773steve
The kit comes with corner ports designed to fit inside corners. You can purchase the kit on our website. www.appliedtechnologies.com
the kit i bought at the store did not come with corner ports just flat ones
773steve
Steve,
We do not sell in any stores. I am sorry but you bought a kit not made by us.
Applied Technologies LLC
hi, how I do get your produ ct...can you text me 7736729850
Were do I buy it what's it called
Why was water injected before the polyurethane?
+Carmen Craciun
Water is the catalyst that makes the Hydra Stop 300 foam and expand.
The water also helps the concrete absorb the chemicals being that concrete is NOT a vapor barrier. Wetting it soaks in more product deeper into its pores
then why does the crack have to be dry to do this? I've been trying to stop a leak for years and the crack never really completely dries before the next rain. I've used quickrite water stop cement because my crack is really wide and even that hasnt worked. trying flex seal products now. getting frustrated.
@@jimmie1142 The crack probably needs to be dry so the epoxy can hold the ports in place... Maybe you could use hydraulic cement to hold the ports in place and then it doesn't need to be dry.
I am not grinding the ports down why the hell can't they just be removed before everything dries damn
Just knock them off with a hammer when everything cures.
Because epoxy strengthen after 10-15 minutes, and in video it says to wait that period of time before you start injecting tube paste to cracks via ports. Other then that paste from tube would simply comes out from crack and you would not be able to fill in cracks.
There is one KEY FACTOR that is not mentioned in this video.
You should determine what caused the crack. If you don't the crack may expand and leak again.
Cracks are an indication of a potentially significant structural problem.
This should be called repairing your crack.
The slow-motion is unnecessary and delays my understanding
you can change the speed of the video using youtube settings
I found a quick and easy way to fix a crack in my cellar wall. I used a hot glue gun and it worked like a champ. It is quick and easy to do and if you need to buy a hot glue gun they are cheap and good to have around.
Awesome! I did the same thing for the framing of my house. I saved money because I didn't have to buy nails!
Fran Dargie it may stop water but not the crack from enlarging.
ha, ha. hot glue costs more nails, and if you use nails the big bad wolf can't blow your house down.
Carl Saberhagen - DAMN YOU!! You owe me a drink, I spit out my last fucking Corona laughing at this comment. LOL
Evelyn Roebuck c
Epoxy doesn't stop water leaks. Epoxy is used for structural repair. I really hope you guys don't waterproof like this. if you do please tell me where your located so i can come take all your business. Leave waterproofing to the professionals
This is not epoxy. It is polyurethane injection. Aka foam. That is who I want fixing my basement leaks is something that doesn't know the difference .
@@ryanscott1989 putting epoxy t rep your ports is a joke. ive been doing this for 27 years. you have zero idea on how to inject polyurethane e. try not to embarrass yourself on a public forum. anytime you wanna go toe to toe and debate how to inject polyurethane you let me know.
🖒🖒🖒
Seems to take too long and way too much work. I have seen better methods.
I don't think that looks like much work at all! What better methods? I haven't seen any that seem to do better! ???
We can knock out about 60ft worth of crack in two hours.
What are the better methods?
News papers? What are those?