Those screws don't line up right on these new flybacks all the time...last one I had the fly fully seated best possible and just used a zip tie through the holes and it works great. Great vid, thanks!
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair the fr-301 is what i use daily, i work on monitors, psus, etc. i have it set to 2.5 or so. the zd-915 also clogs, so maybe not use that one :P the hakko you just need to regularly clean with a rod and the cleaning tool. but you can get a tip big enough to even do flybacks. i use a 1.0mm tip but they make them all the way to like 3mm.
Hi Mike, first off thanks for these great videos. Incredibly helpful for a newbie such as myself. I am testing my voltage regulator and B+ resistor and I am getting 216 ohms on the resistor and a drop of .26 rather than .18 on the white lead. How should I know what operating range for these components is? Thanks!
Hey Mike! I was introduced to your channel on the arcade help repair Facebook group. Do one of your videos have how to discharge the monitor chassis from the …monitor? I’m working on a G07 for the first time with no prior CRT experience and I don’t have any fancy HV test proabes
Hey Will. Just take a flathead screwdriver, attach an alligator clip with a wire to it, attaching the other end to the monitor frame, stick the screwdriver under the anode cap, and that’s all you need to do. When you hear the snap, you’re good. If you hear no snap, it was already discharged. This explains it… ruclips.net/video/mV9Td8vAb0Y/видео.html
I've been scouring the net for a more detailed schematic of the GO7-CBO chassis such as B+ around the vertical and power supply area. I've looked this chassis over and replaced what defective items were found. I bought this arcade game with a vertical width problem which usually is a bade filter cap. I've replaced all caps, even both output vertical transiters just to be on the safe side even though both showed good. I have 119v on the collector of X401, and bout 39v on the collector of X402. I've checked every diode and resistor in that circuit and can't find any reason why no vertical defelection. I've tried Sams Photofacts without any luck. I am retired electronics tech been working since the late 70's thru early 2000, now I just dabble in it. I came to find out later that this was a man made issue which adds to the frustration. Any help would be appreciated.
Does the arcade machine have to be on the ground in order to get rid of the voltage with a screwdriver-wire-alligator clip connected to the metal chasis. I have an old zaxxon cabinet with a line down the middle of it, and I cant figure out what is wrong,,, I've heard of vertical collapse, but still don't know what I need to adjust, because the game comes on, I drop a quarter and it begins, but cant see the game. Just a line.
Excelente vídeo de manutenção, eu trabalho com manutenção em fliperama, temos vários monitores wei-ya com flyback com defeito, não encontra pra comprar.
You can reach me at Mikesmonitorrepair@yahoo.com but I'm not taking repairs in at the moment. Got a lot of backlog to finish up and I’ll be gearing up to move my arcade in a few weeks. I’ll add your name to my list and reach back out once I’m ready to take them in. My apologies
Those screws don't line up right on these new flybacks all the time...last one I had the fly fully seated best possible and just used a zip tie through the holes and it works great. Great vid, thanks!
Great work brother as always. I HIGHLY recommend getting an fr-301 or at least a zd915 it'll change your life.
Thanks. I'll look into them. I had a Hakko but it kept getting clogged and threw it out after getting frustrated.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair the fr-301 is what i use daily, i work on monitors, psus, etc. i have it set to 2.5 or so. the zd-915 also clogs, so maybe not use that one :P the hakko you just need to regularly clean with a rod and the cleaning tool. but you can get a tip big enough to even do flybacks. i use a 1.0mm tip but they make them all the way to like 3mm.
Copy. Thanks. "I'm sorry that I didn't build you a stronger ship, young Rose."
I say every repair video from now on should have mike singing a tune
Shame the replacement flybacks do not last as long as the originals.
Always something to learn. Thanks.
Hi Mike, first off thanks for these great videos. Incredibly helpful for a newbie such as myself.
I am testing my voltage regulator and B+ resistor and I am getting 216 ohms on the resistor and a drop of .26 rather than .18 on the white lead. How should I know what operating range for these components is?
Thanks!
Hey Mike! I was introduced to your channel on the arcade help repair Facebook group.
Do one of your videos have how to discharge the monitor chassis from the …monitor?
I’m working on a G07 for the first time with no prior CRT experience and I don’t have any fancy HV test proabes
Hey Will. Just take a flathead screwdriver, attach an alligator clip with a wire to it, attaching the other end to the monitor frame, stick the screwdriver under the anode cap, and that’s all you need to do. When you hear the snap, you’re good. If you hear no snap, it was already discharged. This explains it…
ruclips.net/video/mV9Td8vAb0Y/видео.html
Hey Mike! Which arcade is yours? I'd love to visit.
Shoot me a message if you plan on coming by. I’d love to say hello!
thearcadewichita.com
ruclips.net/video/Ofd4J9erGdI/видео.html
Those screw holes never line up for me on after market flybacks or the holes are to big for original hardware
Awesome video sir .
I've been scouring the net for a more detailed schematic of the GO7-CBO chassis such as B+ around the vertical and power supply area. I've looked this chassis over and replaced what defective items were found. I bought this arcade game with a vertical width problem which usually is a bade filter cap. I've replaced all caps, even both output vertical transiters just to be on the safe side even though both showed good. I have 119v on the collector of X401, and bout 39v on the collector of X402. I've checked every diode and resistor in that circuit and can't find any reason why no vertical defelection. I've tried Sams Photofacts without any luck. I am retired electronics tech been working since the late 70's thru early 2000, now I just dabble in it. I came to find out later that this was a man made issue which adds to the frustration. Any help would be appreciated.
I would highly suspect a crack in the board at this point.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair I've been all over the board especially circuit around the flyback, but will go over it again. I miss my Sencore toys
Does the arcade machine have to be on the ground in order to get rid of the voltage with a screwdriver-wire-alligator clip connected to the metal chasis. I have an old zaxxon cabinet with a line down the middle of it, and I cant figure out what is wrong,,, I've heard of vertical collapse, but still don't know what I need to adjust, because the game comes on, I drop a quarter and it begins, but cant see the game. Just a line.
Insane Clown Posse! Whoop whoop!
Which setting do you turn to on your tester ? Sometimes it gets confusing with so many choices Thank u
This cabinet is smelly old and dusty so Iam trying to figure out how to clean it without getting shocked.
Excelente vídeo de manutenção, eu trabalho com manutenção em fliperama, temos vários monitores wei-ya com flyback com defeito, não encontra pra comprar.
Hello! How would I get a hold of you for a possible repair?
You can reach me at Mikesmonitorrepair@yahoo.com but I'm not taking repairs in at the moment. Got a lot of backlog to finish up and I’ll be gearing up to move my arcade in a few weeks. I’ll add your name to my list and reach back out once I’m ready to take them in. My apologies
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair Ok sounds good I will do that. Thanks
ICP the worst ever.
Nice easy one!