Expensive speakers and cheap source. How to tune a two way active system with HU.
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- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2024
- Is it worth to have super expensive speakers and a cheap source?
How to tune without a DSP and using only head unit capabilities?
Watch the video to find out.
Thank you Motorogue for the speaker set!
www.motorogue.in/ 
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I would take a couple spades and just solder a short wire lead to it. Adapter for the push connector to your spades. Cover with non-adhesive heatbshrink
That is something similar to what I did 👍
Just a note, you can use the stock passive crossovers and still use time alignment because they are bi-amp capable. You would still use 4 channels from the amp, use time alignment and a HP on the Mid's along with your eq. It just provides less flexibility with the set Mid to Tweeter xover. Great video though!
Can you expand on this?
@@FlossinBobRoss The stock passive crossovers have the ability to be bi-amped. Meaning they have a switch that allows you to have either: 1 input that is split to the mid and tweeter or 2 inputs, 1 each for the tweeter and miss. With the second option you would use 4 channels just like you do in an active setup, but the cross over controls the crossover points. But his head unit could still do time alignment and equipment on each of the 4 channels. Look up biamp passive crossovers to see how they are used.
@@JoshFischer I’ll look it up. Thanks man!
@@JoshFischerHmmm, I wonder if any passive crossover could be converted to be bi-amped.
@@JasonWW2000 Not easily. It requires that the circuit for mid and the circuit for the tweeter are isolated. Many high end components have bi-amp capable crossover networks, but not all. Typically if you can bi-amp, it's better to run fully active and remove the passive crossover completely.
Stand Alone DSP is always the best . This I have been shouting at the community from long back.
I have a Helix DSP mini and a Joying android 12 unit in separate cars, the Joying for sure does not adjust the correct frequency just had the same issue. But not being a parametric eq is the more important factory in overall SQ, you're losing sound in certain places not having one.
If you go deeper into the unit.
It has options for rocket booster control. For electrically fired SRB's. 😊
Have no doubt about that. This unit has more options than actual functions
It's interesting that the Android 12 EQ frequencies are out of alignment. On my slightly older Android 10 Joying unit the EQ frequencies are correct, but the crossover frequencies are inaccurate.
That Android 12 unit has a lot more functionality than the previous one. I've only got 16 bands of EQ for front channels and 16 for rear channels. Each band has it's own adjustable Q, though. Very limited crossovers. 12dB only.
i think you can cross them at 60hz but a lower power, even like that is very good, because they have plenty of xmax
Thanks for a interesting video. Can you please share how you measured the frequency response. Did you use moving microphone method?
Yes, moving microphone with umik-1.
Just add a piece of speaker wire with the spade connector to connect to your original speaker wire that way you don't have to cut anything or change anything
I’d choose ds18 over those!
I have Morel Maximo Ultra 6.5's and I thought I was going crazy hearing the high frequency distortion / buzz as it's on both sides, as tested with my Helix DSP amp via optical. Is this issue confirmed to be affecting digital output as well? Or maybe the Joying amp distorts more at higher volume (not gain) settings, as I have my Helix set on low gain?
Do u have any recommendations for Hi Res DAP to play in a SQ setup? Like Kann Max, FiiO m17, etc
I see no need for them as any device can give out a quality digital signal. Even a cheap android phone.
i am confuse with arc ps 8 pro and helix .3s dsp some pros and cons between each othe helix have coaxial &optical both and arc is only optical helix have phase slider arc is not arc have each input voltage selctor helix not price wise helix is cheap so plz give me advice i am big fan of you advance thanks
Either option would be great. Don't buy a unit that has more functionality if you don't know how to utilise that.
Unrelated to this video but serious question if you or anyone can give there opinion..
This system has a Ib setup with the cone side of the sub having a cut out through the rear bumper..and rear side of sub sealed off from the front to the trunk correct.
My question is if I made a ported enclosure in spare tire space and ported it out of the vehicle kinda like in this set up.For example like two 4 inch aero ports in the enclosure then coming out a little bit from under the car. The idea is to save space with the port and keep it stealth..Would that work ? Or does the port have to be inside of the vehicle?
In a bass reflex or ported enclosure the port is what generates the output at whatever frequency it's tuned to.
Let's say you have an enclosure that's tune to 30hz. The cone is going to play frequencies above that and as the frequencies get lower the cone moves less and outport from the port increases.
So it is essential that the port is inside the vehicle close to the subwoofer.
I might be misunderstanding your question. The tubing for the port can be outside the enclosure (like outside or under the vehicle), but it's essential that the end of the port be firing into the vehicle.
Don't understand why both sets have tweeters ? For me in a three way one set of tweeters is bright enough
What exactly are you referring to?
It's 2 separate 2-way component sets being combined into a 3 way, which means 1 set of tweeters won't be used. It wasn't sold as a 3-way that way. Just a 3 inch component set and a 6.5 inch component set.
What HU are you using?
Joying 10.1 newest model.
Perhaps you could consider a DSP, . . . .
I do have a few DSPs. This video was to show the point of diminishing returns and educate the community. And most importantly to have some music playing while I am rebuilding my system.