Lost PLA
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- Опубликовано: 13 янв 2023
- Hello all!
For a while I have been wanting to make metal castings (aluminum in my case) for various projects I had in mind. Either as art projects or as practical parts and components to be used on various vehicles I have. And for a while I have been aware of the lost PLA casting method and a DIY built propane forge. That is, making a casting using a 3D printed model that gets melted away inside a traditional mold. Today's video is a recording of my very first attempt at producing a piece using this method plus a Plaster of Paris mold, as a greensand alternative. I have chosen commercial grade Plaster of Paris (the kind you can find at a big hardware and construction material store - the reason I did not use green sand is to attempt to do this on very easy to source materials) plus fine aquarium sand in a 50-50 ratio. The role of the sand is to add strength to the mold and prevent it from breaking. Which by the way, I am happy to say it did not happen - the mold did not crack even though it had to withstand two casting attempts (see in the video why). So, my casting attempt was done, it wasn't a complete success but it wasn't a failure either. In the end, it is a journey of discovery, and I do hope you will enjoy what I am about to share with you.
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You can do a couple of things.
1. PLA is not a great material since it does not burn out completely and cleanly, you can use polycast filament instead or a wax material
2. Aluminium is very light and it does not like to flow into small shapes, you can create a big riser to increase head pressure, those open face moulds are usually crap, tilt your mold by 90° to the side with a big riser.
3. Burn out the plaster for longer
Thanks, i will try some of these things in the near future i hope. "Casting" filament is somewhat harder to find in my country but, i'll keep looking and maybe buy something on-line.
@@isographer I wish you luck =)
Here are some hints from someone with many years of experience with pouring aluminum in plaster molds . There is no need to add sand to the plaster. Mix the plaster with more water to help it pick up the details. If you coat your pattern with a release agent, like Vasoline , you might be able to pull it out of the mold, but the pattern needs to be smooth. In the foundry world, draft or taper on the vertical surfaces allows for drawing out. Dry the molds to drive off the moisture before you pour the metal. I have never poured into an open mold. That is very primitive. Make the mold a little bigger for stability. Don't pour directly into the cavity. The aluminum looked a little cold. Good luck with your experiments. You will finally succeed and shout Hoo-ray!
Thank you for your input. Is good to know that very little sand is required. As a matter of fact, last night I have prepared another mold, and actually used more sand than plaster in the mix... :) Well, at least the part only has a functional role, and the aesthetics of it are not important. Since filming this video I have (hopefully) improved my melting rig as well so hopefully I'll have better results in the near future.
I'am very interested in this mold making as I pour copper ingots on my channel looking to do more molds so awesome to learn nice work mate
Thank you, the secret is to use sand. I have actually managed to cast a more complex shape in a later video, but in that situation I have kept the mold over night in the oven. I do believe that it is important to remove all the water content from it.
Try casting in the kids toy sand called 'Kinetic Sand'. I have had great success pressing a shape into the sand, then casting with tin / pewter. But I saw 'king of random' cast aluminium in the sand as well... Great details in my casts and clean sharp lines.
Thanks for the tip!
Very good video well done and the name plate look ok too
Thanks
Your problem probably was the water.
Leave the mould on a house radiator for a couple of days. It should feel light and when you ping it with your finger, it should sound almost like ceramic.
Yep! You are correct. I am planning to do another piece in the near future and that is how i am going to do.
@@isographer Good luck!
how long does it usually take for the plaster to dry completely
Hello! I'm doing a very similar project (only the design changes to be frank), and I'm stuck at the same stage as you - Plaster not dry enough - When will you try it again? I'm interested to see you process! Thank you for this video !
Hello, sorry for the late reply. Since making this video I got sidetracked a bit, first i have tried using some art clay, but the results were poor as well, for different reasons (maybe it was my method, as the clay still might have some merit) than I have realized that I need a proper oven. And this is where things got cold for me, so to speak. I cannot melt PLA into my apartment, because of the smell so the conclusion was that I need to get an oven for my garage. A full size kitchen gas oven is out of the question for me, though - the only option will be an electric one, but I did not get around to buying one, yet. Maybe it was because I don't like electric heating elements in general and I also got sidetracked with other things. Your comment re-sparked my interest though and maybe I'll just buy a very cheap one second-hand and give it a go as is.
Thank you for your reply! Can't wait to see your next steps. Best Regards !@@isographer
I’ve heard the addition of flux to your metal will make it pour better.
Hy, that would be great. I'll give it a try.
The word FAIL is not bad.
F irst
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Well said.... thanks :)
Let that plaster of Paris sit for a week. Then heat it up slowly before pouring.
Hy, thank you for your sound advice. I have thought about doing so myself, and I believe it will work, however I wanted something a little quicker so in a subsequent video I have heated up the plaster mold in a kitchen gas oven, face down. The results were satisfactory, albeit the melted PLA smell was not (but the good part is that PLA is non-toxic) and overall the pour went well. Here is the video: ruclips.net/video/qcLMZMCr8N4/видео.html&ab_channel=isographer