We hope this video helps you with your next build! If you found it useful, consider giving the video a like and subscribing to our channel. We have a lot more content showing various projects in the pipeline, so don't miss out.
I just want to say, as a creative, this company gets it. Y'all understand that investing in high quality media will increase your sales. I wish more companies understood this.
The deck calculator doesn't go small enough for what I need to build. I want a small landing outside a door. Roughly 5'x4'. Would I only need 4 blocks?
They're not required but they're definitely recommended to provide extra stability and stop the joists from bowing. The joists slot into the TuffBlocks. With floating decks, the deck's weight (typically a small car's weight) holds everything down. But if you want to tie it down you can use earth anchors which auger into the ground.
Do you have to use joist hangers on each joist? If so, why do we also need tuff blocks on each joist? For a 12 foot span would not two hangers and one center tuff block be enough? For example, on my 12x18 deck with boards going parallel to the 18 foot length, I would need 13 12 foot joists, ie, 39 tuff blocks according to your recommendation. How do I ensure that the joists are even touching all the blocks once they are placed on the tamped ground? Do I have to use shims or scrape off the paver base as needed?
Good question. It's completely dependent on your building codes for your region as some require the use of joist hangers. And you make a good point, the joist hanger will provide extra support for the joists at their ends. Not everyone uses joist hangers and so we're demonstrating the use of deck blocks laid out along spans in the event that they weren't used. But if you are using joist hangers then some building codes allow this as a support, and you could therefore use fewer blocks. But joist hangers aren't just for support, they also stop joists from rolling which is one of their main purposes. It's always best to build in line with your local codes, and consult a local licenced builder if in doubt.
TuffBlocks have been used for many yurt platforms without any issues at all. This is a 32' x 32' yurt platform for reference: instagram.com/p/C8RjAV8Ra_J/?img_index=1
Hey sorry for the late reply. This question is one we get often and it's tricky to give an accurate answer without knowing more details. 1) Is it a ground level deck or is it raised? 2) Are you using beams/bearers beneath joists? 3) What sized lumber are you using for your subframe? 4) What type and size of decking boards are you using? 5) In which direction do you want the deck boards to run? We wrote an indepth article with deck diagrams to explain how altering each of the above can make a significant difference to the number of blocks you'll need: buildtuff.com/blogs/diy-ideas/how-many-deck-blocks-do-you-need We do have a calculator to give you an estimate, and it's based on 16 inch joist centres, with 5 foot spans for a ground level deck where the joists are going straight into the TuffBlock. This number would change depending on the materials you require though: buildtuff.com/pages/deck-area-tuffblock-estimator-chart-calculator I hope this helps. It's always best to sketch your subframe out to calculate everything as estimates and calculators only go so far!
Question, I’ve watched a few videos with people using these blocks, and when they’re building a level deck to the ground or walkway with them, my concern is water. They dig out the ground basically making a two or 3 inch pit, won’t this hold water? Like a pond? which in turn would sink the blocks due to soft ground. At least that’s what it seems like it would do. so basically, my question is what about drainage for some of these set ups? I am considering these blocks for replacing my paver walkway. and that is my concern. Having all of this water trapped under the walkway.
Good question. In the vast majority of cases the water will either runoff or drain into the substrate. Some builders chose to dig pits like you mentioned, but it's more practical in flood prone areas to simply create a layer of paver base/crusher dust under your block without the pit. Like in these videos here: ruclips.net/video/2sipQzYWw00/видео.html ruclips.net/video/G417s8w6JLs/видео.html These projects below go one step further with crusher dust throughout the area of the project: ruclips.net/video/y7plvWm8QqY/видео.html ruclips.net/video/EC8mklq-ctw/видео.html We have a project that's being released on this channel next week where the builder created deep drainage pits for water runoff in the corner of his yard. In these cases pits can be useful to prevent flooding in torrential downpours. But 99% of the time, using paver base and crusher dust without digging is going to be your best bet. If you need any further info please reach out to us: info@buildtuff.com and we'll try to help.
I am using tuffblock to DIY a deck on my garden. Just wonder If I dont have a compactor, can tamper do the same job? Would it help If I put a pace of paver between the base and tuffblock? thanks
Definitely. A tamp will do the same job, you'll just need to use a bit more elbow grease :) tamps are more than capable of creating compacted ground to build on. Paver base or crusher dust helps a lot too. Please see our extensive step by step video showing these techniques in action: ruclips.net/video/2sipQzYWw00/видео.html
We've seen them anchored to the ground using dynabolts to concrete but not from the timber to the TuffBlock. But in theory your suggestion would work. If you're concerned about tie down for high wind areas, for soil you can tie the subframe down using earth anchors. But your method over concrete could work too. Consult a local builder if you're unsure.
@@Buildtuff basically I want to mount each tuffblock to the frame using a bolt, then I'll anchor each tuffblock to the ground. Just hope drilling holes in these things don't cause them to Crack lol
@@VulcanEditing Check out this section of a video where a deck builder drills through the TuffBlock: ruclips.net/video/BOptr_i0qeg/видео.html Bear in mind that whilst TuffBlock wasn't designed for this, it seems to work well! In a floating deck, the substantial weight of the deck itself spread out over a wide horizontal load with a low profile means the deck is held down and extremely difficult for wind to get underneath. If you can't secure the subframe down using earth anchors (because you're building on concrete) then this is the next best option.
What keeps the deck from heaving or twisting when the ground freezes since these supports are above the frost line? Are these only for areas that do not experience freeze and thaw ground movement?
Floating decks move gradually with the shifting ground and were designed specifically for areas with strong freeze thaw cycles in northern states of America. The deck 'floats' with the ground which puts no stress on the structure itself.
They could but they're not necessary. So long as you have compacted, grade level earth then you're good to go. The TuffBlocks have a big footprint and provide an adequate footing for the majority of cases.
It's not necessary to secure it down when it comes to floating structures as the weight of the deck or walkway (typically up to a ton in weight) holds it down in place and with the wide footprint of the structure it's not going anywhere (similar to a car for example). However, for extreme high wind areas you have two options. You can either 1) dynabolt the TuffBlocks down if you're over concrete, or 2) you can use earth anchors (also called hurricane anchors) that can tie the sub frame down into the ground. Hope this helps.
You could use a butt joint to create a continuous span. This can either sit inside the TuffBlock or in a notched 4x4 post. Just make sure it's fastened together firmly.
5 feet is the recommended distance for the span of the joist (going along the joist length), whereas 16 inches is the recommended spacing for joists going across. You'll need to figure out your measurements based on the lumber you're using so take these as rough estimates.
TuffBlock works great on flat roofs. Your foundation is essentially taken care of, so you can simply place the blocks straight down and build onto that.
How far spacing was the wood joist that was laid underneath next to each other on the ground? My space is 20x24. Where they 12" apart or 16" . Your application lay out is what I would like to use.
Hi Stephanie, the layout here is a rough guide. It's completely dependent on either: 1) The type of deck board 2) The type of joist/subframe material Your deck board will determine the joist centers. If it's a composite board then you'd be looking at 15inch centers (composite needs closer joists to prevent sag). If you're looking at regular wood boards (redwood, cedar etc) then you'd be looking at 16-18inches. This is to prevent boards from 'bouncing'. The closer together your joists, the firmer it will be (but requires more materials). The supports along the length of your joists will be determined by the type of joist you use. 5ft is a rough guide, but check the span tables in your local area to see what's necessary to meet code. A 2x8 for example might need 6ft or larger spans, whereas 2x6 would be closer together. I hope this helps. Any further questions feel free to contact info@buildtuff.com and we'd be happy to assist.
@@Buildtuff thank you this was helpful. I am using 2x6x24 fir wood joist then 1x6x20 composite decking like you have as example to cover my 20x24 space
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We hope this video helps you with your next build! If you found it useful, consider giving the video a like and subscribing to our channel. We have a lot more content showing various projects in the pipeline, so don't miss out.
Can this be used on flat roof. Wanting to put a patio in roof with out drilling in
@@stephaniehenry5617 Yes absolutely. This is where TuffBlock would work perfectly.
That animation was all I needed! None of the other documentation or videos helped. Thank you!
Glad you found it useful!
I just want to say, as a creative, this company gets it. Y'all understand that investing in high quality media will increase your sales. I wish more companies understood this.
Thanks Michael. Even if people choose an alternative to TuffBlock we hope this video helps to figure out their deck build
Great production, I'm using tuffblocks just becuase you bothered to make such a great visual aid for the DIYer 🤣
Thank you.
Love to hear that! If you need any help during your build don't hesitate to reach out.
Excellent information thanks
Awesome guide thanks! this helps a lot
Glad it helped!
Just in time, this is exactly what I needed! Thank you!!
Thank you young man very helpful .
Brilliant media content !!
Thanks glad to help!
Awesome! Thank guy this is what I needed
Great job. Ty
Thanks Mike, glad you liked the video.
What do you use to fix down the joists to the bearers?
@@mikestevens421 they're fastened in with screws or you can use a bracket that joins lumber at right angles
The deck calculator doesn't go small enough for what I need to build. I want a small landing outside a door. Roughly 5'x4'. Would I only need 4 blocks?
Are noggins required between joists? How are the joists fixed to the tuffblocks?
They're not required but they're definitely recommended to provide extra stability and stop the joists from bowing.
The joists slot into the TuffBlocks. With floating decks, the deck's weight (typically a small car's weight) holds everything down. But if you want to tie it down you can use earth anchors which auger into the ground.
Do you have to use joist hangers on each joist? If so, why do we also need tuff blocks on each joist? For a 12 foot span would not two hangers and one center tuff block be enough? For example, on my 12x18 deck with boards going parallel to the 18 foot length, I would need 13 12 foot joists, ie, 39 tuff blocks according to your recommendation. How do I ensure that the joists are even touching all the blocks once they are placed on the tamped ground? Do I have to use shims or scrape off the paver base as needed?
Good question. It's completely dependent on your building codes for your region as some require the use of joist hangers. And you make a good point, the joist hanger will provide extra support for the joists at their ends. Not everyone uses joist hangers and so we're demonstrating the use of deck blocks laid out along spans in the event that they weren't used. But if you are using joist hangers then some building codes allow this as a support, and you could therefore use fewer blocks. But joist hangers aren't just for support, they also stop joists from rolling which is one of their main purposes. It's always best to build in line with your local codes, and consult a local licenced builder if in doubt.
I'm planning to build a 40' X 40' platform to put a yurt on. Are these tuffblocks good to substitute for the concert blocks for thay scenario?
TuffBlocks have been used for many yurt platforms without any issues at all.
This is a 32' x 32' yurt platform for reference:
instagram.com/p/C8RjAV8Ra_J/?img_index=1
@@Buildtuff amazing, thank you!
Im having trouble figuring out how many tuffblocks I will need. Building an 8x12 1ft raised deck.
Hey sorry for the late reply. This question is one we get often and it's tricky to give an accurate answer without knowing more details.
1) Is it a ground level deck or is it raised?
2) Are you using beams/bearers beneath joists?
3) What sized lumber are you using for your subframe?
4) What type and size of decking boards are you using?
5) In which direction do you want the deck boards to run?
We wrote an indepth article with deck diagrams to explain how altering each of the above can make a significant difference to the number of blocks you'll need:
buildtuff.com/blogs/diy-ideas/how-many-deck-blocks-do-you-need
We do have a calculator to give you an estimate, and it's based on 16 inch joist centres, with 5 foot spans for a ground level deck where the joists are going straight into the TuffBlock. This number would change depending on the materials you require though:
buildtuff.com/pages/deck-area-tuffblock-estimator-chart-calculator
I hope this helps. It's always best to sketch your subframe out to calculate everything as estimates and calculators only go so far!
Question, I’ve watched a few videos with people using these blocks, and when they’re building a level deck to the ground or walkway with them, my concern is water. They dig out the ground basically making a two or 3 inch pit, won’t this hold water? Like a pond? which in turn would sink the blocks due to soft ground. At least that’s what it seems like it would do. so basically, my question is what about drainage for some of these set ups? I am considering these blocks for replacing my paver walkway. and that is my concern. Having all of this water trapped under the walkway.
Good question. In the vast majority of cases the water will either runoff or drain into the substrate. Some builders chose to dig pits like you mentioned, but it's more practical in flood prone areas to simply create a layer of paver base/crusher dust under your block without the pit. Like in these videos here:
ruclips.net/video/2sipQzYWw00/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/G417s8w6JLs/видео.html
These projects below go one step further with crusher dust throughout the area of the project:
ruclips.net/video/y7plvWm8QqY/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/EC8mklq-ctw/видео.html
We have a project that's being released on this channel next week where the builder created deep drainage pits for water runoff in the corner of his yard. In these cases pits can be useful to prevent flooding in torrential downpours. But 99% of the time, using paver base and crusher dust without digging is going to be your best bet.
If you need any further info please reach out to us: info@buildtuff.com and we'll try to help.
@buildtuffj, do you have available model of TuffBlock for use in tools like Sketchup or Revit? One was used for this video, so it must exist!
We can't provide our 3d models or design files I'm afraid.
I am using tuffblock to DIY a deck on my garden. Just wonder If I dont have a compactor, can tamper do the same job? Would it help If I put a pace of paver between the base and tuffblock? thanks
Definitely. A tamp will do the same job, you'll just need to use a bit more elbow grease :) tamps are more than capable of creating compacted ground to build on. Paver base or crusher dust helps a lot too. Please see our extensive step by step video showing these techniques in action: ruclips.net/video/2sipQzYWw00/видео.html
would it be okay to drill a hole to mount these to the wood and then another one to anchor them to the ground?
We've seen them anchored to the ground using dynabolts to concrete but not from the timber to the TuffBlock. But in theory your suggestion would work. If you're concerned about tie down for high wind areas, for soil you can tie the subframe down using earth anchors. But your method over concrete could work too. Consult a local builder if you're unsure.
@@Buildtuff basically I want to mount each tuffblock to the frame using a bolt, then I'll anchor each tuffblock to the ground. Just hope drilling holes in these things don't cause them to Crack lol
@@VulcanEditing Check out this section of a video where a deck builder drills through the TuffBlock:
ruclips.net/video/BOptr_i0qeg/видео.html
Bear in mind that whilst TuffBlock wasn't designed for this, it seems to work well!
In a floating deck, the substantial weight of the deck itself spread out over a wide horizontal load with a low profile means the deck is held down and extremely difficult for wind to get underneath. If you can't secure the subframe down using earth anchors (because you're building on concrete) then this is the next best option.
What keeps the deck from heaving or twisting when the ground freezes since these supports are above the frost line? Are these only for areas that do not experience freeze and thaw ground movement?
Floating decks move gradually with the shifting ground and were designed specifically for areas with strong freeze thaw cycles in northern states of America. The deck 'floats' with the ground which puts no stress on the structure itself.
Could paving slabs be used as a base under the tuffblocks?
They could but they're not necessary. So long as you have compacted, grade level earth then you're good to go. The TuffBlocks have a big footprint and provide an adequate footing for the majority of cases.
For a walk way, how do secure the TuffBlock to the ground?
It's not necessary to secure it down when it comes to floating structures as the weight of the deck or walkway (typically up to a ton in weight) holds it down in place and with the wide footprint of the structure it's not going anywhere (similar to a car for example).
However, for extreme high wind areas you have two options. You can either
1) dynabolt the TuffBlocks down if you're over concrete, or
2) you can use earth anchors (also called hurricane anchors) that can tie the sub frame down into the ground.
Hope this helps.
your cross joists are 24 feet long?
Your joists are spanning the entire 24 ft, yet the max length is 16 ft. How do I connect two smaller joists to account for the entire 24' length?
You could use a butt joint to create a continuous span. This can either sit inside the TuffBlock or in a notched 4x4 post. Just make sure it's fastened together firmly.
I dont understand why so many blocks are used for a deck did u say block can be 5 feet from each other
5 feet is the recommended distance for the span of the joist (going along the joist length), whereas 16 inches is the recommended spacing for joists going across. You'll need to figure out your measurements based on the lumber you're using so take these as rough estimates.
what program are you using to design the decks... this would make life easier to be able to do in 3d. Thanks
It was a specialist 3D program not designed for CAD. But you could use Sketchup. That's free and made for practical design like deck building.
@@Buildtuff great thanks
Can this be used on flat roof?
TuffBlock works great on flat roofs. Your foundation is essentially taken care of, so you can simply place the blocks straight down and build onto that.
How far spacing was the wood joist that was laid underneath next to each other on the ground? My space is 20x24. Where they 12" apart or 16" . Your application lay out is what I would like to use.
Hi Stephanie, the layout here is a rough guide. It's completely dependent on either:
1) The type of deck board
2) The type of joist/subframe material
Your deck board will determine the joist centers. If it's a composite board then you'd be looking at 15inch centers (composite needs closer joists to prevent sag). If you're looking at regular wood boards (redwood, cedar etc) then you'd be looking at 16-18inches. This is to prevent boards from 'bouncing'. The closer together your joists, the firmer it will be (but requires more materials).
The supports along the length of your joists will be determined by the type of joist you use. 5ft is a rough guide, but check the span tables in your local area to see what's necessary to meet code. A 2x8 for example might need 6ft or larger spans, whereas 2x6 would be closer together.
I hope this helps. Any further questions feel free to contact info@buildtuff.com and we'd be happy to assist.
@@Buildtuff thank you this was helpful. I am using 2x6x24 fir wood joist then 1x6x20 composite decking like you have as example to cover my 20x24 space