I have been working in the building trades for 40 years, and I have never seen anyone lay the floor joists on their sides. In addition to that, I would not recommend using 2"x 4"s for your floor joists at any span. A minimum of a 2"x 6" should be used. The plywood sheathing should always be staggered, this adds much needed strength to the structure. Always anchor your structure to the ground. You don't want to be responsible for your structure blowing away and causing damage or death, this happens more than you know. Finally, the fabric used under structures is not to prevent weeds. It's purpose is to protect the underside of the structure from moisture. So it is very important to use a (vapor barrier) visqueen/plastic sheeting, and not a weed blocker. Most people are more than capable of building a quality structure, but I do recommend that you speak with the professionals in your area to better understand the correct way to achieve your goal. Good Luck and God bless
100% completely agree and also, this is nowhere near "True Level", and if you think you can even approach it with your sad naked caveman eyeball, and a bubble of f****** air, you're the reason this species is a failure and it makes me angry. You want to put up a shelf, put up a shelf. you want to experience true level? Do You??? Anyway, you aren't gonna get anywhere near true level without picking your measurement point in the center, then using a laser level to set all the other points on the platform. Also you didnt set anything in concrete. I am guessing your building codes dont require inspections on anything under 200 square feet. Personally I balk at anything where the government is telling me what to do, but I would have at least set the floor joists vertically and used the proper sizes.
Thanks for the video. Yep - I agree with Mr. Allard. I've been designing homes and remodels for 25 years. I have never laid my joists flat. However, depending on the load conditions and the spacing and span of the joists a 2x4 on edge may be adequate but a 2x6 will definitely provide a better floor.
@@guysolis5843 Bouncy is good for your knees and hips. I have even bouncier for that very reason. I do without the 2 by 4, the sheathing goes right on the uprights. Load bearing is sufficient for normal house and kitchen stuff. I do admit that a floor standing cabinet for glassware would be a rattly affair but that's what walls are for. I borrowed the idea from the way office spaces with floating floors are made. Concrete floor with adjustable steel spacers 10" tall on a 24" raster. On top of that square tiles 2" thick particle board (offices are not yet up to speed on a bit of flex in a floor). It's extremely practical for everything piping and wiring, lift a tile or 2 and you can modify whatever you want.
I’m a retired ironworker, before laser leveling aids we used a clear hose almost filled with water and put a cork in each end just to capture the water. We a transfer a mark given by engineer to any location on each floor on a story job. Just uncork each end and transfer a mark wherever you need it by holding water level on desired level to the water level on other end of hose. All finish ironworkers carried a rolled up clear hose with corks in their tool bag. If hose is not long enough just make a mark to transfer the elevation. When they came out with laser aided machinery I thought that’s nice, but we have that problem already put to bed !
This book is a comprehensive guide for anyone who wants to create various types of garden buildings. The book provides clear and detailed instructions with numerous photos. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxBE-xSmFU7PIaMFUmmhnFxE035s5svtxeAs a novice, I appreciated the book's step-by-step approach to the basics of building. The book also appeals to the more advanced DIY enthusiast with projects ranging from simple to complex. The book is up to date with the latest trends, such as solar panels, green roofs, and sweet chestnut shakes. The book has inspired me to pursue more projects in the future.
@@dannelu8791 m.ruclips.net/user/postUgkxBE-xSmFU7PIaMFUmmhnFxE035s5svtxe The link had a couple of extra characters that were just the beginning of the next sentence. It was just missing a space
Hi Gary from the UK don't forget to tell people the 3x4x5 rule it will help people do this on your next video plus fit the joists on their EDGES not flat or the floor will have a bounce to it and it doesn't feel solid, very interesting and informative keep them coming
I built pole frame homes in Australia and I used a water level. The accuracy I was achieving was 1/16' across the entire floor system. And I never laid joists on their side. Thats a new one one me after 46 years as a builder....1966 to 2012....Cheers.
I read the entire Ryan’s ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan’s Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan’s Shed Plans.
DO NOT EVER PUT FLOOR JOISTS ON FLAT BUT INSTEAD STAND THEM ON EDGE SO YOUR FLOOR DOESNT BOW WHEN YOU WALK ON IT.. Watch Larry Huan or builder brothers if you want the right ways to build. This would be the laughing matter of all construction sites, i tell yah .
Great to hear you mention Larry Haun, he taught me all I ever needed to know about framing. I also have bad knees and hips so all my floors have a bit of bounce using a system very similar which is common here in office buildings with floating floors (without the bounce). The maximum span is 36" between supports, a 2 by 4 flat will do just fine.
I like watching these DIY videos because in another young life, I would have loved it if we had the internet with immediate access to such; sure, we went to the library, which is a pleasant experience in itself, but such enjoyment with my coffee in the morning is gold.
I started working with laser levels 35 years ago installing computer flooring - raised flooring . 99% of the construction workers rely on the laser levels to give a perfect level mark BUT they never ever check their laser level , to make sure its working correctly every time they use them ! Many get kicked - bumped and take a rough ride on the roads in the back of a pickup truck . I bought a new PLS laser and it was out of calibration ( the company mailed me a new one ).
Ive been in the building trade for 120 years, built my first house in 1896, we used 1x2 for joists, house still standing, doesnt have any walls or roofs but joists are still standing.
Everybody on here saying you need to lay those 2x4s vertically have never built a trampoline. This is going to be the best wooden bounce house in the neighboorhood
A simple, reliable and inexpensive alternative to a laser level is a water level. It is a length of clear flexible tube or hose long enough to reach between diagonal corners. Fill the tube with water and food coloring, lower the center of the tube and raise each end to allow air bubbles to escape. The colored water in the tube will reach the level point at both ends.
Do not trust moving the clear tube by raising the ends of the tube to remove air bubbles. A container with water should be used and place one end of the tube in the container of water then with the other end of the tube syphon water to flow out the lower end of the tube. Water will flow out of the tube (gravity) when water is flowing without bubbles block end tightly with a thumb and raise end of tube about the same level as the tube in the container. DO NOT BLOCK THE ENDS OF TUBES WITH CORKS ETC WHILE USING THE LEVEL AS IT WILL GIVE FALSE READINGS. THE ENDS MUST BE OPEN. Determine a datum at the required height and do not move from that datum until all points are marked. Never if using some one to assist trust that person! Always after marking the new level level point ask your assistant to look at the datum point mark and tell you when the water in the tube reaches the original datum mark as you are raising/lowering the tube at your end you just marked. When the water reaches the original datum mark and the assistant indicates it is on the original datum mark check the new mark coincides with the datum. Any discrepancy will show that your assistant cannot be trusted. It is far better to fix the tube very lightly at each end without crushing the tube and walk back and forward adjusting the tube at the datum end and when the water is at the datum mark go to the other end of the tube and mark the water at the new level. You can check that the two marks are the same level by placing the water on the new mark and going back to the datum to see if it coincidence. Standing on the tube will give false readings so will strong winds. REMEMBER NEVER TRUST YOUR ASSISTANT!!!!!! While moving the tube to each level point place your thumb on the end of the tube to prevent loss of water. Never flick the tube over obstacles as this will put air bubbles in the tube as well. Good luck regards Johnno
@@johnnothegreat8907 Excellent explanation and tips for using a water level. Another thing I learned (the hard way) was that it's much easier if you use 1/2" or larger clear tubing than 1/4" tube. I think with the smaller diameter it's harder to overcome the friction inside the tube and maybe the surface tension of water. With small diameter tube the water moves slowly and takes a long time to settle on your mark. You are constantly moving the tube up and down and waiting for the water level to settle. Thanks again!
I like this guys enthusiasm and his video editing is stellar. I just watched his refinishing a hardwood floor video. He did it just right. Like most young carpenters, we all have a lot to learn. Taking measurements off of a drooping steel tape should be reconsidered and setting the post base in a hole invites puddling. His shed is less than 120 sf which means he wouldn't need an inspection. In my build I sank all for corners and two additional posts for the center in concrete. Ideally, the thing to do would be to get a Bobcat and excavate the location level. But over all, good project and I'm sure next time he'll modify the procedure like we all did at one point in out building careers.
Weed barrier will only prevent weeds for a year or so - afterwards, seedings will be blown onto them and they will start growing. the barrier simply limits some of the drainage - - much easier to just use weed killer / ground clear once a year
Floor joists should not lay flat and when putting down the flooring sheets they need to have the seams offset like a brick pattern would lay out. Good video though.
Not to mention the post&beam method requires the post to be buried and properly secured in the ground to prevent uplift and movement of the aboveground structure during high winds. Some basic engineering principles need to be applied to every construction project in order to be safe and long lasting.
GREAT question and thanks so much for bringing this up. I should have mentioned it in the video but here goes. It’s because of the floor joist spacing and the fact that the panels come pre-cut. I would’ve had to stagger one of the floor joists in a different layout in order for the seams to work out correctly. I didn’t account for that ahead of time and by the time I realized it it was too late since everything was nailed down. Those ring shank nails are hard to pull out that where in the floor joists. Thanks again for bringing this question up.
Ive seen quite a few diy shed floors built this way, but they usually don't have any experience building. It leaves the floor feeling spongy and weak. Not rigid and stiff, which is how it is supposed to feel. Ive noticed they don't bear as much of a load either. The floor joists were always 2x6 or bigger, sometimes sistered if putting a heavy load on the floor. You know gunsafes and heavy objects like larger frame tools, cabinet saws, etc.
beautifull job!,....two things i do as well,is to spray all the wood downunder with anti-termite oil ,plus felt paper under the plates..its preety cheap and makes them buggers life harder.
Nice work. Quick comment though, you should always paint some end-cut wood preservative on the raw end of the support posts before you put the ties on, it will prolong the life of the support post(the untreated top tends to rot over time)
Whole project can be ruined in seconds if base not properly secured to the ground. Any strong wing gust or tiny tornado make your structure had a flying experience. Also cross boards (joists) must lay vertical, and floor sheathing sheets must be staggered. And of course, these plastic boots must be completely covered from sun uv rays. Good luck!
Given how short the span was between the 4 by 4's, I can see using 2 by 4's for "floor joists". But they were clearly installed wrong; they all should have been installed with the "4" inch side up and down, sitting on the "2" inch side for maximum strength.
I'm a retired union carpenter and in making any type of box all legs have to be the right dimension and to achieve square there's 3 methods possible. 1) measure the diaganol dimension both ways and square the box or rectangle till measurements are equal both ways. 2) 3,4,5 method a perfect 90° corner or aka right angle is made the 3', 4', 5' method or multiples of same numbers, for example: 3,4,5 can be multiplied 3x10, 4x10,5x10= 30,40,50 or any number as long as the base numbers are relevant. 3) pyagrathems therom is the mathematical way to find the exact diagonal dimension to make an exact 90° corner.
There will be puddles in that fabric you are laying down..the mold willgrow on on the underside of the floor..you can always syphon it out with lengths of hose.
You must tamper the footing and have 6"gravel tampered then you poor your foot. (Flat part of footing) then you set your post gravel backfill tapered agian.1' foot of dirt after gravel. This will give you 2 feet and stop upheaval of the post.
That's not common . The only time lumber is laid down flat, is for the decking, which goes over upright beams. I have an auger with a 6 inch bit, 3 ft deep. I paid about $250 for it. Never lets me down. I string, I drill all the holes for my fences, decks , etc in minutes. I drop the posts, brace, level , attach some beams temp, to keep them in line , faced and spaced. Concrete all the posts at once. Clean up go home. I use a laser and cut the posts to height. After the rims and joints, I run my Makita power planer over it. Plywood on an outdoor floor,? Dear God
This looks like how to make a level floor with as much work as possible tutorial. You should have put each corner post, then took your 10 ft board, stand it on edge, and tack it to lowest point (highest elevation of ground, your 2 inches or whatever above the ground on your 1 corner,. Tack it on the side of the post, then put your level on the side of it, raise other end until level screw to post, now go around full perimeter. Then it's a simple matter to mark each corner and cut the posts flush with level, and then every other post you add, you just get it plumb, tack it to the level board, and cut it flush with level.
The joist should be 2x6 on edge and I would also use double 2x6 instead of the 4x4. I would never lay the 2x4 flat since they will deflect considerably more than having them on edge...and yes, I am a licensed Civil Engineer.
I was hoping your method didnt require expensive equipment most people dont have. A great video would be how did the old timers do such a thing without laser lvls and specialty blocks.
I don't see anything holding this to the ground: a kick on the side and I have the feeling everything would move and immediately not be level :) Add walls and you have a kite surf ready to lift off :)
One more note : You dug the holes (not very deep but I don't know how far south you are) but those plastic bases should have been put on about 1"-2" of the tamped gravel and then the rest of the gravel should have gone on top to ground level. Rain will fill the holes and the freezing temps will raise those plastic blocks quite a bit and possibly unevenly. If the plastic pads were only an inch above the hard packed, undug earth there wouldn't be much room for water to heave the pads. 2x4's laying flat? Not done anywhere that I know of. No strength that way. You are going to have a bouncy floor with no way to fix it.
Every level and every laser comes with some deviation. Depending on their quality it may be 1/1000 =1mm/m or 0.5/1000 = 0.5mm/m (Look at the nameplate, usually it's written on there). With a water hose level you can get it down to 0.1/100,000 = 0.1mm/100m - nothing can beat that. The bigger your structure is, the better the water hose level is for levelling. The Great Pyramids at Kairo/Egypt were probably levelled with water, though they had no hoses - they encircled the whole area (250x250yds !) with a dirt wall and filled it with water, then put several posts in it and carefully marked the water level, drained the area and started building (2,600-2,500 B.C.)
Leveling a small area is easier than leveling bigger area. Leveling bigger area is a challenge but you can do it lot easier through the help of appropriate tools.
The easiest way is to use a water level just like the Egyptians did get a long hose preferably clear at both ends and put a mark on them one inch from the end the marks have to be exactly the same distance from the end of the hose then fill it with water and go around checking g level as the water will always try to find a level inside the hose at both ends it will be lvl compared to the distance from the end of the hose even over things around corners under something or any which way you stretch it
Thanks for the great job and the good way to explain things thanks once again for the efforts and for sharing this with us. You make me ready for doing the same as you built. 🇩🇰🙏👍
What's the maximum post height that the tuffblocks will take? I'm considering building a 10' by 4' deck for my above ground pool. It needs to be 4.5' above the ground.
How do you plan to anchor this structure to the earth? High wind during thunderstorm conditions can and will blow this structure and roll it into something that is properly anchored!
Extremely professional NOT JUST the work itself but your presentation + editing, but I do have a question /concern regarding the footings, yea, the process/steps followed are out of tge book but isn't the freezing depth a worriessome to you ? And especially that all footings are spread across wide area /surface, in some portions footing heights will change ( pushed up in winter ), thus some corners will be higher than heights setup in summer! The 4 feet freezing free depth is a rule I have followed up here in tge moose land (😂), thus no natter if a small, large shed or even a platform is built, the main footing support height never change
These look cool. I've been wanting to build an 8' x 10' shed for a while but my backyard is slightly sloped. These look like they will do the job with minimal excavation and ground leveling.
Years ago I took a coffee can, put a hose fitting of approprate size to connect a long clear water filled line to it. Put a tank full of water in the can. Let the water fill the tube. The can was the center. The end was level and anywhere at any point in space it would be level with the can. As long as the hose was long enough, one could level up great distances in line from any direction. I have used this method many times from hundreds of projects. The Romans and Egyptians probably used something like this.
@@BYOTools i love the quality and the explanations. I really do. And i watch and even recommend for that. But i have to be in the right frame of mind because of the heighth thing, i agree, and i warn the people i am sending to. Not expecting it to change of course. Your videos to do with as you wish. If you've ever watched a chef john video, i would say it's the same part of the brain screaming, and he's my favorite creator.
Goodbye mate from Australia. Thanks for your reply on tube size. Good point. I also use a plumbob to get things vertical. I found to my dismay that using a level and aluminium straight edge to put in Door Jambs to suit Mirror doors on a walk in wardrobe did not work due to the spirit level having a tiny degree of error in the level. In other words the head of the door jamb I put in with a water level was dead level but the floor to ceiling mirrored door 8 feet high (2.4 metres) which was made perfectly square did not close on the vertical door jamb due to the margin of error stated on the level. That slight margin of error in the spirit level although not great was sufficient enough to alter the distance across the diagonals and the ********** mirrored doors just did not fit truly. My employer of the time said I did not get the jambs plumb. I gave him the spirit level and straight edge I had used and of course they showed plumb but a plumbob showed the margin of error over 8 feet was a factor in causing the jamb to not be truly vertical. My pride was restored I did have the jamb plumb after all albeit spirit level plumb. It won't happen again if I get a job with glass door panels. Regards Johnno
I cant help but wonder where you are that it is code to lay joists on their side. Not to mention using 2x4’s in the first place. Never seen it before..just wondering..
Hey BYOT or anyone else in the comments. What’s to stop this thing lifting up? The tuff blocks are just sitting on the dirt. There is nothing preventing uplift. Also joists on the flat with no joist hangers? I’ve never seen that before. Other then that, looks neat.
The video shows that they are not resting on dirt. By digging down to solid soil and pouring 8" to 12" of crushed rock and compacting it provides an extremely durable foundation. And I love me some joist hangers but they are not needed in this type of application since the 2x4's are laying flat. If this was a build for a garage or house that is taking a tremendous amount of weight I would have the same concerns as you but that's not what we are building here :) Thanks so much for bringing these questions to light and thanks for watching. Hope you tune in for the next video to see what is being built.
@@BYOTools In PNW, I think we don't have to endure with hurricanes or tornadoes, so we don't have to worry about things flying away. I was wondering the same thing about what's keeping the tuff blocks on to the ground. I'm assuming the weight of the structure will take care of it, but I guess we'll see when you post the second video.
You can do the same thing with a traditional concrete block just dig down to get the block tops to the height you want the top to end up at. I trust the concrete won't crack or settle over time. You should also stagger the joints on your flooring.
CMUs piers are cheaper and more reliable than plastic and are able to be shimmed after settling. The idea of using 4x4s for rim joists is strange, especially when using a 4 and 8 footer to span 12 feet. Doubling up 2x4s and staggering the joint would make more sense but not as much as a single 12 foot 2x6. I hope no one is persuaded to construct a deck like this including the incorrectly oriented floor joists.
Not sure where you're located, but here in the northeast US, those footings are not to code. An "outbuilding" that size would require a permit, and to get final approval, the footings would have to be in concrete at least 42" below grade. Also, the floor joists would not be code-compliant unless the longer width of the cross section was vertical rather than horizontal and (as others mentioned) attached with hangers. I wish I could build things like you do but we have very strict building inspectors here (and tax assessors looking for any improvements)!
There are a lot of places where a backyard shed of small dimensions do not require permits and do not need to meet usual building codes. These small structures are considered temporary and have no real estate tax impact. Yes, freedom is a good thing.
Here in Colorado, anything greater than 120 sf needs a permit and inspection. I build that size just to keep inspectors out of my yard. Once there, they like to look at everything you own but I always sink a steel anchor into a 4 foot tube of concrete to install my posts. Not willing to have my shed full of tools blowing over in the middle of winter.
Dido to the comment. So many things wrong with this ‘how not to’ video. I live in Kansas and this size building would not need to be permitted in my town. This structure wouldn’t last a single Fall’s wind.
@@guysolis5843 I am unsure of Colorado law but from an understanding and experience with several states all have a similar implementation: State law will adopt the IRC but list all the exceptions or deviation (there are very few) and allow for counties to make the other modifications by filing a document with the state outlining them. There will be very few of these, if any. Then your local municipality will have a building department where building permits are filed and at least one building inspector. Call the office and ask about the need to file a permit for your project. A good department will have a website with this information but will always respond to your request and I have never not been able to speak with the actual inspector. They actually respect anyone that call for advice. The limit for a structure’s square footage requiring a permit is anywhere from 100 to 400 sf.
Excellent video as always Brent. There a lots of ways to do a build and just as many reasons why you don’t do them in every application. The basics apply no matter what!,
There are nails for the gun you used in the size needed to nail the plywood down you don't need a separate nail gun and why didn't you stagger the joints on the plywood it makes for a much stronger platform
wouldnt it be easier to use 4 strings, move away into 2 directions from each corners around 2-3 feet, adjust the level of the strings on eg. 8 steel bars and then just adjust each posts to those strings without all those double measures, checks etc? Thats how its done here and it works perfectly - definitely faster and still as accurate. cheers
im retired from 30 yrs in construction. 25 of which as a union carpenter, 5 more as a car plant union millwright setting machines with a 2 second level. best way to get something like this level is dont listen to this guy. store bought hand levels are often very inaccurate. put up batter boards and string it to square. get a surveyors level (optics) and shoot it in, you can have it level to splitting a millimeter.
Haha! Great to hear and thanks so much for watching. I was sick the last couple of days and my voice was rough! Better late then never this weekend right :)
It's not anchored to the ground? Where does the water escape that lands on the floor escape to? I'm not a pro builder but these two things would greatly concern me during windy/rainy conditions.
Thats why a lot of builders pour a Slab and screw the Sole Plates of the Wall to the Slab. It makes more sense. Also using Hurricane Anchors is mandatory in some jurisdictions for the Roof Rafters.
So the foundation would have the same dimensions as the shed??? I’m asking because I’ve seen videos of other types of foundations where the foundation is 1 foot longer.
I don't mean to Monday morning quarterback, but you should really consider coating the ends of any post making ground contact or contact with any other non porous material, like plastic of steel, with some type of insect/water repellent. Even common indoor latex paint, would be better than cutting a structural member and leaving its unprotected core expose, I don't care if its made of plastic, coat it. The post bases used should also receive a 3 mil minimum of two coats of any latex paint, to block UV radiation from weakening the bases . The entire floor sub-structure is within 24" of the ground so treated or composite material should be used because of insect,splash and splatter, if nothing else latex minimum. I would never recommend an osb sub-flooring panel this close to the ground without a ground based vapor barrier and a fiber based weeping style underpinning like Typar at a minimum. If Budget is a concern 5 gallons of latex paint can be found at Lowes for @50$ last time I looked, its an all white label, usually in a hard to see corner, that reads "Maintenance Paint". Just this step of latex paint will double the life of structure in resistance to rot, mold, and insect incursion. Wood is a building material, saturated wood is a habitat for every petri dish on earth. Your posts are not capped, you don't always have to do this, but anytime you are less than 24" off the ground your post should have a flared cap in lieu of the fastening system, this stops the majority of insects from climbing higher than the post and getting into the joist/beam system. More importantly it prevents the rain from the ground from flying up after hitting the ground and getting stuck between your joints. If budget is an issue again at this point merely cut old soda cans into strips fold them into an l shape and attach them to all 4 sides of the post directly beneath connection and fasteners. I should again state that untreated wood and OSB, can have a ground contact life span as little as 6 months in the right weather and no one without extreme budgetary needs would ever place these materials within 5" of the ground. As a side note, even if you used all composite material I would still treat it with an UV resistant epoxy. Where I live there is no such thing as any untreated wood member below 18" even if its on top of treated beams and posts on concrete bases, this is because untreated wood especially pine and fir are bug food and have a horrible weather resistance. You can crumble a white fir 2x4 in your bare hands after 6 months on the ground. You also specified weed mat, which is not a vapor barrier, you should never build a waterproof structure above non waterproofed ground, unless you intend to sell it to someone you hate, you will get a far better return out of 6 mil poly placed down over every inch of ground. Dry dirt surrounded by natural uncovered earth works like a candle wick, it draws the moisture to it and then evaporates it into a sub-floor killing fog. If you want to go the extra mile paint, with regular latex, the 6 mil barrier on the ground and it is now proofed against dry rot. Building smart is all about managing first failure. If you are lazy and cheap like me you always design your weatherizing system around longest life for lowest maintenance cycle = minimum effort and cost. Also on paper I know the compression/deformation numbers look great and that 2x4s flat every 16" on 2-3' spans seems plenty strong after adding the tongue in groove floor panels, but these numbers are based on perfect parts/boards with no defect in a laboratory under perfect artificial weather conditions... In real life, this floor used no bonding method and is not weatherized, it will over time ripple and sag beyond tolerance, 2x6s are preferred, for any span 2' or more outdoors at the budgetary minimum, place your joists edgewise, inside of an outer band that does not leave the joists exposed, or you are just frustrating your future self. Lastly the video premise was level floor system... well unless its an indoor bedroom or something I have no idea why you would want something "Perfectly Level". You have 2 ideal floor systems, drain in - for enclosed non living spaces, and drain out - for sports courts, patios, driveways etc. Each should be un-level by design to carry the water to a drain like a shower floor, or shed it in a desired direction like roads with the middle higher than the shoulders. Building a tool shed, no money for a drain, chances are you want it un-level by at least .5" every 10' towards the bid front door, so that the inevitable, storms, spils and cleaning can easily be moved from the back to the front with just a broom. Its not hard to do and only the floor is un-level, the walls,ceiling, and roof are all still level by careful. Also somewhere in there you said easily get a square and level floor system then used two of the most complicated ways I know 6' (maybe)level and cross cornering, when all you need is to figure out where you want your front door pick the wall on the right at any angle string 2 stakes, then consult Pythagoras for the far corner and rock out, no walking back and forth adjusting wasting movements and time etc. The absolute simplest way to get "true" "greek" level to this very modern day is with 20$ worth of 1/4 inch clear poly tubing, a funnel and some water. Find highest ground determine desired finish floor height fasten tube to stake mark height, go to next inline corner and fill tube with water until it is level with first line... You now have the most accurate level known to man, and the easiest to use over long distance or around obstructions where you don't have line of sight.
Personally I'd never use white wood that close to the ground. Anything below plywood and 18 inches from the ground would be for "ground contact " treated. I'd be thinking 40 years ahead. I'd also never lay floor joists on their sides.
Why not just concrete the posts ? a good wind will slide this frame also - you must not be in a frost area - a frost area would require pillars be set below the frost line for that area without pillars - after every frost period, the ground will settle (especially in that loose soil)
I have been working in the building trades for 40 years, and I have never seen anyone lay the floor joists on their sides. In addition to that, I would not recommend using 2"x 4"s for your floor joists at any span. A minimum of a 2"x 6" should be used. The plywood sheathing should always be staggered, this adds much needed strength to the structure. Always anchor your structure to the ground. You don't want to be responsible for your structure blowing away and causing damage or death, this happens more than you know. Finally, the fabric used under structures is not to prevent weeds. It's purpose is to protect the underside of the structure from moisture. So it is very important to use a (vapor barrier) visqueen/plastic sheeting, and not a weed blocker. Most people are more than capable of building a quality structure, but I do recommend that you speak with the professionals in your area to better understand the correct way to achieve your goal. Good Luck and God bless
100% completely agree and also, this is nowhere near "True Level", and if you think you can even approach it with your sad naked caveman eyeball, and a bubble of f****** air, you're the reason this species is a failure and it makes me angry. You want to put up a shelf, put up a shelf. you want to experience true level? Do You???
Anyway, you aren't gonna get anywhere near true level without picking your measurement point in the center, then using a laser level to set all the other points on the platform. Also you didnt set anything in concrete. I am guessing your building codes dont require inspections on anything under 200 square feet. Personally I balk at anything where the government is telling me what to do, but I would have at least set the floor joists vertically and used the proper sizes.
I agree 100 percent. I have never seen this before.
And as a result the floor is "bouncy". Great concept though. Laser levels are the way to go..
Thanks for the video. Yep - I agree with Mr. Allard. I've been designing homes and remodels for 25 years. I have never laid my joists flat. However, depending on the load conditions and the spacing and span of the joists a 2x4 on edge may be adequate but a 2x6 will definitely provide a better floor.
@@guysolis5843 Bouncy is good for your knees and hips. I have even bouncier for that very reason. I do without the 2 by 4, the sheathing goes right on the uprights. Load bearing is sufficient for normal house and kitchen stuff. I do admit that a floor standing cabinet for glassware would be a rattly affair but that's what walls are for.
I borrowed the idea from the way office spaces with floating floors are made. Concrete floor with adjustable steel spacers 10" tall on a 24" raster. On top of that square tiles 2" thick particle board (offices are not yet up to speed on a bit of flex in a floor). It's extremely practical for everything piping and wiring, lift a tile or 2 and you can modify whatever you want.
I’m a retired ironworker, before laser leveling aids we used a clear hose almost filled with water and put a cork in each end just to capture the water. We a transfer a mark given by engineer to any location on each floor on a story job. Just uncork each end and transfer a mark wherever you need it by holding water level on desired level to the water level on other end of hose. All finish ironworkers carried a rolled up clear hose with corks in their tool bag. If hose is not long enough just make a mark to transfer the elevation. When they came out with laser aided machinery I thought that’s nice, but we have that problem already put to bed !
Water hose level, yes they still use these but not in home construction...mitx mainly used in water works, pool building ect
Yeah, I used one. You have to have a good partner to use them well. I bought a laser level.
I’ve also used a water level. It is extremely accurate.
yes i used a water level setting scaffolding
Local #10 as a young man. Then 30 years as a roofer local #20. Early 80s bad for Ironworkers in Kansas City. Freaking Carter.
This book is a comprehensive guide for anyone who wants to create various types of garden buildings. The book provides clear and detailed instructions with numerous photos. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxBE-xSmFU7PIaMFUmmhnFxE035s5svtxeAs a novice, I appreciated the book's step-by-step approach to the basics of building. The book also appeals to the more advanced DIY enthusiast with projects ranging from simple to complex. The book is up to date with the latest trends, such as solar panels, green roofs, and sweet chestnut shakes. The book has inspired me to pursue more projects in the future.
hi, can you post the link for the book again
@@dannelu8791
m.ruclips.net/user/postUgkxBE-xSmFU7PIaMFUmmhnFxE035s5svtxe
The link had a couple of extra characters that were just the beginning of the next sentence. It was just missing a space
Hi Gary from the UK don't forget to tell people the 3x4x5 rule it will help people do this on your next video plus fit the joists on their EDGES not flat or the floor will have a bounce to it and it doesn't feel solid, very interesting and informative keep them coming
I built pole frame homes in Australia and I used a water level. The accuracy I was achieving was 1/16' across the entire floor system. And I never laid joists on their side. Thats a new one one me after 46 years as a builder....1966 to 2012....Cheers.
I read the entire Ryan’s ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan’s Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan’s Shed Plans.
DO NOT EVER PUT FLOOR JOISTS ON FLAT BUT INSTEAD STAND THEM ON EDGE SO YOUR FLOOR DOESNT BOW WHEN YOU WALK ON IT.. Watch Larry Huan or builder brothers if you want the right ways to build. This would be the laughing matter of all construction sites, i tell yah .
Great to hear you mention Larry Haun, he taught me all I ever needed to know about framing. I also have bad knees and hips so all my floors have a bit of bounce using a system very similar which is common here in office buildings with floating floors (without the bounce). The maximum span is 36" between supports, a 2 by 4 flat will do just fine.
I like watching these DIY videos because in another young life, I would have loved it if we had the internet with immediate access to such; sure, we went to the library, which is a pleasant experience in itself, but such enjoyment with my coffee in the morning is gold.
I started working with laser levels 35 years ago installing computer flooring - raised flooring . 99% of the construction workers rely on the laser levels to give a perfect level mark BUT they never ever check their laser level , to make sure its working correctly every time they use them ! Many get kicked - bumped and take a rough ride on the roads in the back of a pickup truck . I bought a new PLS laser and it was out of calibration ( the company mailed me a new one ).
Nothing beats a water level
Ive been in the building trade for 120 years, built my first house in 1896, we used 1x2 for joists, house still standing, doesnt have any walls or roofs but joists are still standing.
😂😂😂
Everybody on here saying you need to lay those 2x4s vertically have never built a trampoline. This is going to be the best wooden bounce house in the neighboorhood
Few
A simple, reliable and inexpensive alternative to a laser level is a water level. It is a length of clear flexible tube or hose long enough to reach between diagonal corners. Fill the tube with water and food coloring, lower the center of the tube and raise each end to allow air bubbles to escape. The colored water in the tube will reach the level point at both ends.
Do not trust moving the clear tube by raising the ends of the tube to remove air bubbles. A container with water should be used and place one end of the tube in the container of water then with the other end of the tube syphon water to flow out the lower end of the tube. Water will flow out of the tube (gravity) when water is flowing without bubbles block end tightly with a thumb and raise end of tube about the same level as the tube in the container. DO NOT BLOCK THE ENDS OF TUBES WITH CORKS ETC WHILE USING THE LEVEL AS IT WILL GIVE FALSE READINGS. THE ENDS MUST BE OPEN. Determine a datum at the required height and do not move from that datum until all points are marked. Never if using some one to assist trust that person! Always after marking the new level level point ask your assistant to look at the datum point mark and tell you when the water in the tube reaches the original datum mark as you are raising/lowering the tube at your end you just marked. When the water reaches the original datum mark and the assistant indicates it is on the original datum mark check the new mark coincides with the datum. Any discrepancy will show that your assistant cannot be trusted. It is far better to fix the tube very lightly at each end without crushing the tube and walk back and forward adjusting the tube at the datum end and when the water is at the datum mark go to the other end of the tube and mark the water at the new level. You can check that the two marks are the same level by placing the water on the new mark and going back to the datum to see if it coincidence. Standing on the tube will give false readings so will strong winds. REMEMBER NEVER TRUST YOUR ASSISTANT!!!!!! While moving the tube to each level point place your thumb on the end of the tube to prevent loss of water. Never flick the tube over obstacles as this will put air bubbles in the tube as well. Good luck regards Johnno
@@johnnothegreat8907 Excellent explanation and tips for using a water level. Another thing I learned (the hard way) was that it's much easier if you use 1/2" or larger clear tubing than 1/4" tube. I think with the smaller diameter it's harder to overcome the friction inside the tube and maybe the surface tension of water. With small diameter tube the water moves slowly and takes a long time to settle on your mark. You are constantly moving the tube up and down and waiting for the water level to settle. Thanks again!
I like this guys enthusiasm and his video editing is stellar. I just watched his refinishing a hardwood floor video. He did it just right. Like most young carpenters, we all have a lot to learn. Taking measurements off of a drooping steel tape should be reconsidered and setting the post base in a hole invites puddling. His shed is less than 120 sf which means he wouldn't need an inspection. In my build I sank all for corners and two additional posts for the center in concrete. Ideally, the thing to do would be to get a Bobcat and excavate the location level. But over all, good project and I'm sure next time he'll modify the procedure like we all did at one point in out building careers.
Weed barrier will only prevent weeds for a year or so - afterwards, seedings will be blown onto them and they will start growing.
the barrier simply limits some of the drainage - - much easier to just use weed killer / ground clear once a year
Floor joists should not lay flat and when putting down the flooring sheets they need to have the seams offset like a brick pattern would lay out. Good video though.
I agree. Floor joist should be in standing position to make it stronger and support heavy load and vibration.
Not to mention the post&beam method requires the post to be buried and properly secured in the ground to prevent uplift and movement of the aboveground structure during high winds. Some basic engineering principles need to be applied to every construction project in order to be safe and long lasting.
Clever system, but how do you secure the shed to the ground so it doesn't blow away in a storm / High winds?
shoulda woulda coulda
How come you didn't alternate seams on the sub-floor to get rid of the seam intersections?
GREAT question and thanks so much for bringing this up. I should have mentioned it in the video but here goes. It’s because of the floor joist spacing and the fact that the panels come pre-cut. I would’ve had to stagger one of the floor joists in a different layout in order for the seams to work out correctly. I didn’t account for that ahead of time and by the time I realized it it was too late since everything was nailed down. Those ring shank nails are hard to pull out that where in the floor joists. Thanks again for bringing this question up.
Ive seen quite a few diy shed floors built this way, but they usually don't have any experience building. It leaves the floor feeling spongy and weak. Not rigid and stiff, which is how it is supposed to feel. Ive noticed they don't bear as much of a load either. The floor joists were always 2x6 or bigger, sometimes sistered if putting a heavy load on the floor. You know gunsafes and heavy objects like larger frame tools, cabinet saws, etc.
beautifull job!,....two things i do as well,is to spray all the wood downunder with anti-termite oil ,plus felt paper under the plates..its preety cheap and makes them buggers life harder.
Nice work. Quick comment though, you should always paint some end-cut wood preservative on the raw end of the support posts before you put the ties on, it will prolong the life of the support post(the untreated top tends to rot over time)
Whole project can be ruined in seconds if base not properly secured to the ground.
Any strong wing gust or tiny tornado make your structure had a flying experience. Also cross boards (joists) must lay vertical, and floor sheathing sheets must be staggered.
And of course, these plastic boots must be completely covered from sun uv rays.
Good luck!
Given how short the span was between the 4 by 4's, I can see using 2 by 4's for "floor joists". But they were clearly installed wrong; they all should have been installed with the "4" inch side up and down, sitting on the "2" inch side for maximum strength.
Loved it!
I wait in anticipation of the next video where you build the shed on top of the extremely level floor!
Well done, Sir!
Should you not have pit the joists on edge rather than flat, and your t&g flooring should be staggered?
I'm a retired union carpenter and in making any type of box all legs have to be the right dimension and to achieve square there's 3 methods possible.
1) measure the diaganol dimension both ways and square the box or rectangle till measurements are equal both ways.
2) 3,4,5 method a perfect 90° corner or aka right angle is made the 3', 4', 5' method or multiples of same numbers, for example: 3,4,5 can be multiplied 3x10, 4x10,5x10= 30,40,50 or any number as long as the base numbers are relevant.
3) pyagrathems therom is the mathematical way to find the exact diagonal dimension to make an exact 90° corner.
There will be puddles in that fabric you are laying down..the mold willgrow on on the underside of the floor..you can always syphon it out with lengths of hose.
You must tamper the footing and have 6"gravel tampered then you poor your foot. (Flat part of footing) then you set your post gravel backfill tapered agian.1' foot of dirt after gravel. This will give you 2 feet and stop upheaval of the post.
Definitely don't use these if you're in a high wind area. The idea is good for certain small projects.
Thank you for sharing.
If you were building this in snow country don't you need to put the foundations below the freeze level to avoid "heaving"?
Agree totally. And also in my Country you can not build lower than 225mm to stop moisture rising. What holds it down and not blowing away?
based on the type of fundation you place on that shed, I would like to see that shed today.
Floor joists on the flat and not on their edge. Never seen that before. otherwise a smart build
Very common to save height but probably not up to code
That's not common . The only time lumber is laid down flat, is for the decking, which goes over upright beams. I have an auger with a 6 inch bit, 3 ft deep. I paid about $250 for it. Never lets me down. I string, I drill all the holes for my fences, decks , etc in minutes. I drop the posts, brace, level , attach some beams temp, to keep them in line , faced and spaced. Concrete all the posts at once. Clean up go home. I use a laser and cut the posts to height. After the rims and joints, I run my Makita power planer over it. Plywood on an outdoor floor,? Dear God
This looks like how to make a level floor with as much work as possible tutorial. You should have put each corner post, then took your 10 ft board, stand it on edge, and tack it to lowest point (highest elevation of ground, your 2 inches or whatever above the ground on your 1 corner,. Tack it on the side of the post, then put your level on the side of it, raise other end until level screw to post, now go around full perimeter. Then it's a simple matter to mark each corner and cut the posts flush with level, and then every other post you add, you just get it plumb, tack it to the level board, and cut it flush with level.
Exactly. True carpenters have the best time saving tricks..
that's what I was looking for - basic common sense, making life easy. thanks!
Here in Brazil it is rare to find these "metallic joints" for wood and when you find one, they cost $50, $60, $80 each!
The joist should be 2x6 on edge and I would also use double 2x6 instead of the 4x4. I would never lay the 2x4 flat since they will deflect considerably more than having them on edge...and yes, I am a licensed Civil Engineer.
So true. There is extremely little joist support afforded by a flat 2x4. And I'm not a Civil Engineer.
Before I even watch the video, WATER LEVEL. They work great.
I was hoping your method didnt require expensive equipment most people dont have. A great video would be how did the old timers do such a thing without laser lvls and specialty blocks.
The joists will twist once they dry out but its not like you are living in the shed the fallaparticul board will rott too..
I don't see anything holding this to the ground: a kick on the side and I have the feeling everything would move and immediately not be level :) Add walls and you have a kite surf ready to lift off :)
Never seen floor joist laid flat like that. And the flooring should be staggered
looks nice! great job!
im guessing he did so many footings for such a small structure because he used 2x4s for joists?
One more note : You dug the holes (not very deep but I don't know how far south you are) but those plastic bases should have been put on about 1"-2" of the tamped gravel and then the rest of the gravel should have gone on top to ground level. Rain will fill the holes and the freezing temps will raise those plastic blocks quite a bit and possibly unevenly. If the plastic pads were only an inch above the hard packed, undug earth there wouldn't be much room for water to heave the pads. 2x4's laying flat? Not done anywhere that I know of. No strength that way. You are going to have a bouncy floor with no way to fix it.
I believe he's in the pacific northwest.
this is a shed .. not a house
Every level and every laser comes with some deviation. Depending on their quality it may be 1/1000 =1mm/m or 0.5/1000 = 0.5mm/m (Look at the nameplate, usually it's written on there). With a water hose level you can get it down to 0.1/100,000 = 0.1mm/100m - nothing can beat that. The bigger your structure is, the better the water hose level is for levelling. The Great Pyramids at Kairo/Egypt were probably levelled with water, though they had no hoses - they encircled the whole area (250x250yds !) with a dirt wall and filled it with water, then put several posts in it and carefully marked the water level, drained the area and started building (2,600-2,500 B.C.)
They’re way older than that bub
How do these numbers take into account for the capillary action?
Leveling a small area is easier than leveling bigger area.
Leveling bigger area is a challenge but you can do it lot easier through the help of appropriate tools.
My pull out strength is pretty significant as well
Awesome video! Glad to be part of another project :) Can't wait to see what you put on top of it.
Thanks so much for all the support BT! It was a great experience to be a part of this project with you and the foundation is as solid as can be :)
A vaccination center.
$219 for 24 pieces of plastic - I hope they paid you enough for this commercial
@@BYOTools 3. ? My iok l.p.
Hopefully he doesnt put much on top of it since he built it completely wrong. You never use 2x4 joists and you never lay them flat hahaha
The easiest way is to use a water level just like the Egyptians did get a long hose preferably clear at both ends and put a mark on them one inch from the end the marks have to be exactly the same distance from the end of the hose then fill it with water and go around checking g level as the water will always try to find a level inside the hose at both ends it will be lvl compared to the distance from the end of the hose even over things around corners under something or any which way you stretch it
Thanks for the video!!! I have a question the plastic on top gravel won't move in windy conditions? Thanks
Martha stewart voice is the absolute winner
It looks really really good. Thanks for the incredibly helpful video :)
Thanks so much! Keep up the amazing work on your channel as well :)
Thanks for the great job and the good way to explain things thanks once again for the efforts and for sharing this with us. You make me ready for doing the same as you built. 🇩🇰🙏👍
What's the maximum post height that the tuffblocks will take? I'm considering building a 10' by 4' deck for my above ground pool. It needs to be 4.5' above the ground.
Good job considering all of the varitibles
Glad everything's working out for you and your Legos maybe one day you'll become a builder
🤠
How do you plan to anchor this structure to the earth? High wind during thunderstorm conditions can and will blow this structure and roll it into something that is properly anchored!
Extremely professional NOT JUST the work itself but your presentation + editing, but I do have a question /concern regarding the footings, yea, the process/steps followed are out of tge book but isn't the freezing depth a worriessome to you ?
And especially that all footings are spread across wide area /surface, in some portions footing heights will change ( pushed up in winter ), thus some corners will be higher than heights setup in summer!
The 4 feet freezing free depth is a rule I have followed up here in tge moose land (😂), thus no natter if a small, large shed or even a platform is built, the main footing support height never change
These look cool. I've been wanting to build an 8' x 10' shed for a while but my backyard is slightly sloped.
These look like they will do the job with minimal excavation and ground leveling.
Just perfectly leveled. Good job
Years ago I took a coffee can, put a hose fitting of approprate size to connect a long clear water filled line to it. Put a tank full of water in the can. Let the water fill the tube. The can was the center. The end was level and anywhere at any point in space it would be level with the can. As long as the hose was long enough, one could level up great distances in line from any direction. I have used this method many times from hundreds of projects. The Romans and Egyptians probably used something like this.
between the "heighth" and everything being a system (instead of just the thing) this guy drives me up the wall
But what did you think of the rest of the video? haha! Thanks for watching.
@@BYOTools i love the quality and the explanations. I really do. And i watch and even recommend for that. But i have to be in the right frame of mind because of the heighth thing, i agree, and i warn the people i am sending to. Not expecting it to change of course. Your videos to do with as you wish.
If you've ever watched a chef john video, i would say it's the same part of the brain screaming, and he's my favorite creator.
I like his work and his videos but his voiceovers are unbearable sometimes. This guy either needs to go back to grammar school or hire a writer.
@@tnuggitz I totally agree
@@AlishaLouise you put it perfectly
Goodbye mate from Australia. Thanks for your reply on tube size. Good point. I also use a plumbob to get things vertical. I found to my dismay that using a level and
aluminium straight edge to put in Door Jambs to suit Mirror doors on a walk in wardrobe did not work due to the spirit level having a tiny degree of error in the level. In other words the head of the door jamb I put in with a water level was dead level but the floor to ceiling mirrored door 8 feet high (2.4 metres) which was made perfectly square did not close on the vertical door jamb due to the margin of error stated on the level. That slight margin of error in the spirit level although not great was sufficient enough to alter the distance across the diagonals and the ********** mirrored doors just did not fit truly. My employer of the time said I did not get the jambs plumb. I gave him the spirit level and straight edge I had used and of course they showed plumb but a plumbob showed the margin of error over 8 feet was a factor in causing the jamb to not be truly vertical. My pride was restored I did have the jamb plumb after all albeit spirit level plumb. It won't happen again if I get a job with glass door panels. Regards Johnno
Plumb bobs and water levels
take some beating.
I cant help but wonder where you are that it is code to lay joists on their side. Not to mention using 2x4’s in the first place. Never seen it before..just wondering..
I must assume the unknowing can sell product to the unknowing!
Would have been easier with auger and just dropping the post in the ground
That's going to be a squeaky floor good buddy 👍 flat no Bueno.
Hey BYOT or anyone else in the comments. What’s to stop this thing lifting up? The tuff blocks are just sitting on the dirt. There is nothing preventing uplift. Also joists on the flat with no joist hangers? I’ve never seen that before. Other then that, looks neat.
The video shows that they are not resting on dirt. By digging down to solid soil and pouring 8" to 12" of crushed rock and compacting it provides an extremely durable foundation. And I love me some joist hangers but they are not needed in this type of application since the 2x4's are laying flat. If this was a build for a garage or house that is taking a tremendous amount of weight I would have the same concerns as you but that's not what we are building here :) Thanks so much for bringing these questions to light and thanks for watching. Hope you tune in for the next video to see what is being built.
@@BYOTools In PNW, I think we don't have to endure with hurricanes or tornadoes, so we don't have to worry about things flying away.
I was wondering the same thing about what's keeping the tuff blocks on to the ground. I'm assuming the weight of the structure will take care of it, but I guess we'll see when you post the second video.
You can do the same thing with a traditional concrete block just dig down to get the block tops to the height you want the top to end up at. I trust the concrete won't crack or settle over time. You should also stagger the joints on your flooring.
CMUs piers are cheaper and more reliable than plastic and are able to be shimmed after settling. The idea of using 4x4s for rim joists is strange, especially when using a 4 and 8 footer to span 12 feet. Doubling up 2x4s and staggering the joint would make more sense but not as much as a single 12 foot 2x6. I hope no one is persuaded to construct a deck like this including the incorrectly oriented floor joists.
Not sure where you're located, but here in the northeast US, those footings are not to code. An "outbuilding" that size would require a permit, and to get final approval, the footings would have to be in concrete at least 42" below grade. Also, the floor joists would not be code-compliant unless the longer width of the cross section was vertical rather than horizontal and (as others mentioned) attached with hangers. I wish I could build things like you do but we have very strict building inspectors here (and tax assessors looking for any improvements)!
There are a lot of places where a backyard shed of small dimensions do not require permits and do not need to meet usual building codes. These small structures are considered temporary and have no real estate tax impact. Yes, freedom is a good thing.
Here in Colorado, anything greater than 120 sf needs a permit and inspection. I build that size just to keep inspectors out of my yard. Once there, they like to look at everything you own but I always sink a steel anchor into a 4 foot tube of concrete to install my posts. Not willing to have my shed full of tools blowing over in the middle of winter.
Dido to the comment. So many things wrong with this ‘how not to’ video. I live in Kansas and this size building would not need to be permitted in my town. This structure wouldn’t last a single Fall’s wind.
Whats the code for a structure under 120 sf. Here in Colorado there is none.
@@guysolis5843 I am unsure of Colorado law but from an understanding and experience with several states all have a similar implementation: State law will adopt the IRC but list all the exceptions or deviation (there are very few) and allow for counties to make the other modifications by filing a document with the state outlining them. There will be very few of these, if any. Then your local municipality will have a building department where building permits are filed and at least one building inspector. Call the office and ask about the need to file a permit for your project. A good department will have a website with this information but will always respond to your request and I have never not been able to speak with the actual inspector. They actually respect anyone that call for advice.
The limit for a structure’s square footage requiring a permit is anywhere from 100 to 400 sf.
Excellent video as always Brent. There a lots of ways to do a build and just as many reasons why you don’t do them in every application. The basics apply no matter what!,
Well said and thanks so much for watching. Greatly appreciate the support :)
Homestead supplier makes me think you’re gonna do some kind of garden or greenhouse
Yeah, might as well convert that ting into a raised garden bed idk
“Sheer strength” 2/4’s always used on edge when building anything on the planet.
There are nails for the gun you used in the size needed to nail the plywood down you don't need a separate nail gun and why didn't you stagger the joints on the plywood it makes for a much stronger platform
Quite obvious that you do not get real winters by the depth of those posts. Easy to look pro.
wouldnt it be easier to use 4 strings, move away into 2 directions from each corners around 2-3 feet, adjust the level of the strings on eg. 8 steel bars and then just adjust each posts to those strings without all those double measures, checks etc? Thats how its done here and it works perfectly - definitely faster and still as accurate. cheers
A water level works well for getting the tops of the posts at the same height.
Great job, I want to do something like. I want to move a old shed on a new slab like this
Nice cut of Miriam Makeba!
im retired from 30 yrs in construction. 25 of which as a union carpenter, 5 more as a car plant union millwright setting machines with a 2 second level. best way to get something like this level is dont listen to this guy. store bought hand levels are often very inaccurate. put up batter boards and string it to square. get a surveyors level (optics) and shoot it in, you can have it level to splitting a millimeter.
How to make my day? A new video uploaded!
Haha! Great to hear and thanks so much for watching. I was sick the last couple of days and my voice was rough!
Better late then never this weekend right :)
@@BYOTools yeah! Have you recovered yet?
@@eszyx8062 Getting there. Much better then yesterday so thats a positive :)
It's not anchored to the ground? Where does the water escape that lands on the floor escape to? I'm not a pro builder but these two things would greatly concern me during windy/rainy conditions.
Thats why a lot of builders pour a Slab and screw the Sole Plates of the Wall to the Slab. It makes more sense. Also using Hurricane Anchors is mandatory in some jurisdictions for the Roof Rafters.
Post set two feet deep in concrete is the only way to go.
Very professional thanks
Doesnt it sink? If the frost line is like 3 4 ft. This plastic base is still recommended or better concrete.
For the purpose of educating and not any disrespect, heighth is not a word.
Miriam Mekeba....excellent choice.
I put a slight slope to the back yard, so the rain will not run into the basement.
Perfectly level, not a good idea!
Really good video, helped me no end thanks... I hope your pole dancing bar is a success
No, don't follow this guy's video. He's not a carpenter.
My vote is for a greenhouse!
Now that is a very good guess Jeremy :) Who's with him?
----- with an OSB floor ? I should hope not
Looking forward to seeing what's coming 👍
Great to hear and thanks for watching Brian.
Does the plywood need to by pressure treated and what’s the thickness??
Only if it’s in direct contact with concrete. Such as Sole Plates.
NEVER USE 2X4 FOR JOIST. AND DEFINITELY DONT LAY THEM FLAT. AND ALWAYS STAGGER YOUR SHEETING. WOW!!
--- learn to set and use batter boards if you want a level and square base
Loved it
So the foundation would have the same dimensions as the shed??? I’m asking because I’ve seen videos of other types of foundations where the foundation is 1 foot longer.
It depends on the designer’s intent.
I don't mean to Monday morning quarterback, but you should really consider coating the ends of any post making ground contact or contact with any other non porous material, like plastic of steel, with some type of insect/water repellent. Even common indoor latex paint, would be better than cutting a structural member and leaving its unprotected core expose, I don't care if its made of plastic, coat it. The post bases used should also receive a 3 mil minimum of two coats of any latex paint, to block UV radiation from weakening the bases . The entire floor sub-structure is within 24" of the ground so treated or composite material should be used because of insect,splash and splatter, if nothing else latex minimum. I would never recommend an osb sub-flooring panel this close to the ground without a ground based vapor barrier and a fiber based weeping style underpinning like Typar at a minimum. If Budget is a concern 5 gallons of latex paint can be found at Lowes for @50$ last time I looked, its an all white label, usually in a hard to see corner, that reads "Maintenance Paint". Just this step of latex paint will double the life of structure in resistance to rot, mold, and insect incursion. Wood is a building material, saturated wood is a habitat for every petri dish on earth. Your posts are not capped, you don't always have to do this, but anytime you are less than 24" off the ground your post should have a flared cap in lieu of the fastening system, this stops the majority of insects from climbing higher than the post and getting into the joist/beam system. More importantly it prevents the rain from the ground from flying up after hitting the ground and getting stuck between your joints. If budget is an issue again at this point merely cut old soda cans into strips fold them into an l shape and attach them to all 4 sides of the post directly beneath connection and fasteners. I should again state that untreated wood and OSB, can have a ground contact life span as little as 6 months in the right weather and no one without extreme budgetary needs would ever place these materials within 5" of the ground. As a side note, even if you used all composite material I would still treat it with an UV resistant epoxy. Where I live there is no such thing as any untreated wood member below 18" even if its on top of treated beams and posts on concrete bases, this is because untreated wood especially pine and fir are bug food and have a horrible weather resistance. You can crumble a white fir 2x4 in your bare hands after 6 months on the ground. You also specified weed mat, which is not a vapor barrier, you should never build a waterproof structure above non waterproofed ground, unless you intend to sell it to someone you hate, you will get a far better return out of 6 mil poly placed down over every inch of ground. Dry dirt surrounded by natural uncovered earth works like a candle wick, it draws the moisture to it and then evaporates it into a sub-floor killing fog. If you want to go the extra mile paint, with regular latex, the 6 mil barrier on the ground and it is now proofed against dry rot. Building smart is all about managing first failure. If you are lazy and cheap like me you always design your weatherizing system around longest life for lowest maintenance cycle = minimum effort and cost. Also on paper I know the compression/deformation numbers look great and that 2x4s flat every 16" on 2-3' spans seems plenty strong after adding the tongue in groove floor panels, but these numbers are based on perfect parts/boards with no defect in a laboratory under perfect artificial weather conditions... In real life, this floor used no bonding method and is not weatherized, it will over time ripple and sag beyond tolerance, 2x6s are preferred, for any span 2' or more outdoors at the budgetary minimum, place your joists edgewise, inside of an outer band that does not leave the joists exposed, or you are just frustrating your future self. Lastly the video premise was level floor system... well unless its an indoor bedroom or something I have no idea why you would want something "Perfectly Level". You have 2 ideal floor systems, drain in - for enclosed non living spaces, and drain out - for sports courts, patios, driveways etc. Each should be un-level by design to carry the water to a drain like a shower floor, or shed it in a desired direction like roads with the middle higher than the shoulders. Building a tool shed, no money for a drain, chances are you want it un-level by at least .5" every 10' towards the bid front door, so that the inevitable, storms, spils and cleaning can easily be moved from the back to the front with just a broom. Its not hard to do and only the floor is un-level, the walls,ceiling, and roof are all still level by careful. Also somewhere in there you said easily get a square and level floor system then used two of the most complicated ways I know 6' (maybe)level and cross cornering, when all you need is to figure out where you want your front door pick the wall on the right at any angle string 2 stakes, then consult Pythagoras for the far corner and rock out, no walking back and forth adjusting wasting movements and time etc. The absolute simplest way to get "true" "greek" level to this very modern day is with 20$ worth of 1/4 inch clear poly tubing, a funnel and some water. Find highest ground determine desired finish floor height fasten tube to stake mark height, go to next inline corner and fill tube with water until it is level with first line... You now have the most accurate level known to man, and the easiest to use over long distance or around obstructions where you don't have line of sight.
Personally I'd never use white wood that close to the ground. Anything below plywood and 18 inches from the ground would be for "ground contact " treated. I'd be thinking 40 years ahead. I'd also never lay floor joists on their sides.
Who would ever put floor joists like this🤣 omg
floor joists on the side is cowboy building unless you are building FFW ring.
Why not just concrete the posts ?
a good wind will slide this frame
also - you must not be in a frost area - a frost area would require pillars be set below the frost line for that area
without pillars - after every frost period, the ground will settle (especially in that loose soil)
It's a good thing you have those safety goggles and gloves on.