Thank you everyone for watching. If you enjoyed this videos, pleases subscribe. New videos of this epic shed build series come out every Saturday. In the meantime, you can watch the OG shed build 👉🏼ruclips.net/video/BLk_CAMmQPc/видео.html and Shed 2.0 👉🏼ruclips.net/video/p3Z2Bpez31c/видео.html Cheers!
Love your stuff down here in Elmira, NY ... You break things down so even goofs like myself can fallow. . Got 2, well really 3 questions. You are working on the premise that code is 10'x16' maximum exterior size. BUT you are going to be a little big. How thick is your sheathing? ... Let's assume .5" --> example Smart Side ~7/16" How thick will your trimming be? ... Let's assume .75" --> example 1x6 (or 1x4) #2 pine . So, you cut the floor joists at 9'6", with the 6" total for the rim joists. That will put you at exactly 10' before the siding and trim. 2 sides of siding = ~1" 2 sides of trim will = ~1.5" So your total outside dimensions will be 10' 2.5" deep and 16' 2.5" wide. . Is that something your code guy will freak over? . Also, when I've built sheds, I line the corner seams, under the trim, with 5" wide butyl tape to seal the corner seam beneath the trim. It helps keep driving rain from getting under the trim and into the seam. 5" tape gives you 2.5" on either side of the seam. . So, including the tape, and an anal code guy, wouldn't it have been better to cut the joists at 9' 3" & rim joists at 15' 9" to account for the siding, trim and sealing tape.
I like how Jeff makes a mistake and leaves it in the video, keeps real, and that he is doing everything from an Ontario perspective. Thanks Jeff , Great videos please keep them coming
I find it funny how often, when I'm preparing for a DIY project, that I am looking around and seeing different approaches, but I always come back to your channel for a kind of "reality check" to see what the best way is to do it.
His channel is my go to to learn everything to guts and remodel an old house we bought. One video I’m needing and not finding, is replacing the structural perimeter beams with an old dry stack limestone “foundation”.
You mention over building your structures, to help them last longer I'm kind of the same way. One thing is I pay attention to specific details and one you overlooked that I do for a shed or deck is to remove the sod from under the deck area. You mentioned moisture from ground contact but there is also moisture that will dwell under the building just from the ground below it. Like if you park a car on the grass and leave it there for a few years it will be completely destroyed with rust under it. If you park the same car on top of a tarp on the grass the car will be considerably better condition after those same years. Clear the sod under the shed down to the hardpack and then lay some plastic sheeting and cover it with sand. This will eliminate the ground moisture from affecting the underside of your structure. This applies for pressure treated lumber as well because even pressure treated will last longer in a better environment and so will any nails and screws.
@@edgararcega3046 yes remove the top soil just lay down plastic and fill with gravel or sand. Weeds wont grow under the shed without sunlight or water. You just want it to be as dry as possible and the shed floor will last almost forever which means longer than you are alive...
Not gonna lie, your son has come a long way learning with his legend of a dad. He quietly learns his lessons and I can tell he secretly enjoys it. Thanks for being such a great team. Especially the camera angles.
Quick tip for flushing the rim joist. If you put the screw or nail into the top of the inner joist and use the claws on your framing hammer to leverage the outer joist down (like you're trying to pull the screw) having the nail gun at the ready to nail when flush you don't have to worry about the angle screw holding the two boards apart if you happen to have to back the screw out a bit to flush up.
Holy shnikeys!!! That technique for pulling down the bow on the outside rim, that is mad genius! Every time I watch one of your videos I have a "HOLY SHNIKEYS!" moment or two!
When you marked your rim joists at every 16 inches, your plywood would not end in the middle of a joist. The first joist needs to be marked at 15 1/4" from the end with the x to the right of it, then every 16" from the 15 1/4" mark in order for the plywood to end in the middle of a joist. I learned this the hard way this weekend while building the base for my 16' x 10' shed. I ended up just sistering a couple of joists onto the 2 locations where the plywood seams met to compensate. Love your videos and have watched this series at least 3 times and find it all super helpful. Just wanted to point this out so others don't miss that step. Same applies to wall framing and roof rafters. Measure out from the end of the wall/roof/floor at 12/16/24 then subtract 3/4" for your first mark, then normal distances from that mark (every 12/16/24). Unless I'm missing something :)
Jeff, love the way you show how to do a build, repair, etc. You not only teach but lead by example. I always come away from watching your videos with more than I start with. You are one of the best on RUclips if not the best as far as I am concerned sir.
I could see you, waiting in the foyer of a high-end restaurant, running into somebody with a construction t-shirt, and right then and there, you'd start drawing a diagram on the side of the restaurant wall! You draw them everywhere! Some people are addicted to tattoos, you are addicted to tattooing everything you build with! And somehow, I'm addicted to watching this all! GLORIOUS!!!
Big fan of yours Jeff. 10 x 16 is what im building right now. I went with 2 x 8 pressure treated for my joists and 9 holes in the ground filled with 40 inches of concrete to support the decking area.
Enjoyed this much. The greatest thing about it was the positive attitude towards the minor mistakes. Thx for sharing. I'm currently drawing up a shed (8'x12') I'm leaning towards this plan here for the base.
I like the way that you think. I used the same flooring system on my shed 20 years ago using 3/4 inch plywood. Over time the edge of the plywood bends [flexes] between the joists. In normal house building, there are two levels of flooring used with staggered edges so that doesn't become a problem, but neither one of us did that. I think some of my "Edge Flex" can be attributed to ground moisture seeping up [as dew dissipates from the ground and grass] over the years. I would suggest blocking where the edges of the plywood between joists. 2X4s or 2X3s would suffice to do the job. Also, make sure the space between the fence and the building is large enough to get a mower back behind the shed. Using a string trimmer to cut the grass in back of the shed will get tiring after two months.
Moisture barrier underneath and block the seams so that there is no sag. When I replace sheetrock, I do the same thing so that all joints are backed by framing.
Jeff is jack of all trades.! LOL He can paint and he can build shed foundation. He pulled nails out of his pocket!!! So awesome! Respect the hustling@!
The timing is impeccable. Just started thinking about building myself a wooden shed using what we call tuffblocks, and here you are doing exactly that. And as always, concisely and clearly explained.
Just like a cinematic gun shootout, you never seem to run out of nails in your nailer. xD nice work. I think this is going to be my next project because a storm destroyed my aluminum shed.
Been enjoying this. I appreciate the balance of code vs reality vs manufacturer data. In the video you have 4 blocks and in further videos it's apparent that more were added. I might have missed that part. Anyway, can ya comment on how many you eventually found appropriate? I'm planning a 16x16 and very much agree that manufacturer data seems like crazy overkill. Just wanted your input on what you found to be a happy medium. All the best.
Yes, block spacing/placement was one of the big reasons I watched this particular video. I'm watching other people, and the way they do it is pretty obviously complete overkill (e.g. a bunch of blocks beneath every joist). Still trying to figure out a spacing system that is realistic.
Nice looking job but a few things come to mind.... Please wear safety glasses when using a nail gun. That is a must. The top plywood should be "tongue and grove" edges. T&G is much stronger than butt joints. For me, I don't like using single joist under the plywood length's butt joints. I use a sistered joist (2 x joists) instead. Like you said, floating sheds in Ontario (and its frost) allows the shed to "float & sink". Since a floating shed (especially a loaded shed with heavy weight items) sinks and needs to be leveled every 5-10 years, also install "jack up" points at ends and middle of the frame. Just like jacking up a vehicle to replace its flat tire, make corner and middle "jack up" supports (on the frame's inside outer edge). Instead of having the deck blocks deep in the ground, add a bag of gravel, a 18/x18" patio stone under the deck blocks. Wider the grounds "touch area" the less natural frost sinking. Also, add a "double" 2x8 around the entire platform. Also... Higher the gap from ground to under frame, the more natural air ventilation - which means less wood rotting (from natural ground moisture). Keep shed's frame gap 12-16 inches off the ground, use a ramp for the door and install white plastic lattice (small holes) to allow air ventilation and keep most critters out. As you can tell, I've built many shed platforms / deck platforms and I hate (did I mention "hate") their long term maintenance / re-leveling tasks. Thus, I always build better with above tips....
That situation with the neighbour is right in every part of world. I am in Serbia, and I would also have that same problem. If I cross 1 inch, I am in trouble :D
Currently building a 10x12 floating shed base out if pressure treated wood and 23/32 subfloor. Haven't had any help so far, my back us very upset at me. Fell asleep on the couch last night and woke up at 4:30 in the morning feeling like i got beat with a bat. Looking great so far though. My motorcycle will have a nice new home this weekend
Consider building the skids on top of those CAMO blocks as it offers opportunity for moving the shed later. Also, concealed joist hangers on the rim joists.
I was at Reno Depot in Montreal and a 8x10 shed is going for $6500. I’m looking at building my own with this technique a 10x12. If I have any issues I’ll take a drive to Ottawa and pick your brain. Love your shed build. ❤❤❤
I learned some more. Just bought the CAMO footings for my VEVOR tent shed platform. A set of 8 from AMAZON for the 2 drop beams. I will now buy leveling almost powder-stone as a footing base. Many footings due to the organic soil. The platform is 8ft x 12ft and movable. Possible tree cutting in the future but too expensive for now. Three 4ft x 8ft removable panels across the drop beams. I hope someday to be a RUclips presenter narrating my thousand or so pictures. No time to do videos while doing my projects. On my drawings I show mid-span bridging or staggered tight fit blocking for joist spans greater than 8ft. It is also in my construction notes. I just bought the DeWalt drill & impact driver combo. Driving big screws is now easy. I now show more screw solutions on my drawings. I am now busy doing design and construction drawings for homeowners and builders. DATACAD 23, started with version 5 in 1995. Retirement age but still working.
Regarding concreted-post discussion, wouldn't it be easier to set posts higher than you need them, set level marks on the posts, cut, add hardware and then put on your joists?
I LOVE your videos! ❤ Fantastic demonstration of these plastic foundations & perfect timing! You are teaching me how to build, fix etc. Hey, I'm a girlie girl & I can do some of this too. Sometimes I get the neighbor kids to help a bit. These boys are awesome & they think I'm cool b/c I use tools. 😅 Now that's almost as fun as your videos. All the best to you & your family - from Virginia Beach, VA.
One thing I like to do on decks or sheds that are a few inches to a foot off the ground is put down weed block and stones underneath. Helps to keep the critters from getting too comfortable under there. 😉
Looks great but I would’ve killed off all the grass or vegetation under the shed and removed it or put plastic down with gravel or gravel over the dead vegetation with the weed fabric I think leaving the live vegetation underneath it’s just gonna give you problems in the long run. But other than that, I like what you’re doing and really like the camo block.
I'm in Central Oregon and in the middle of building a shed foundation using your instructions. It's been extremely helpful especially for a deck novice, and it's going great! Thank you!
Funny talking about slopes in the yards, I’m a speciality contractor and I bet you be surprised how many properties I’ve seen landscaped sloped towards the home! Some actually look like a house built down in a bowl! Personally I never understood how they get away with landscaping done like that? You know whoever owns the home going to have troubles with water getting into their foundation or worse basement End up having to dig deep trenches around the house and funnel the rain water away from the house! I don’t think most people think about that when they’re looking at buying a house? Know one guy that built a house down in a bowl and it started raining right after the house was finished and next thing they knew they had water coming up thru the floor. They didn’t install a sub pump to automatically drain the water when it senses water getting too high under the home’s structure. Unfortunately they learned they needed to install a sub pump under the house in the water and mud. Then had to replace all their hardwood floors that warped from all the water! Btw, hope you don’t have chickens running around, they’ll love getting under your shed and making nests to hatch their eggs! I had to enclose all around my shed to keep the chickens from getting under the shed. Surprisingly the chickens dug 18-24” deep next to my shed to get back under the shed again. I ended up pouring cement around my shed in the ditch the chickens dug to keep the chickens out!
I had to do the same for rock squirrels digging under my slab. Guess they sense that my slab had a gap underneath due to adjustment give me a pier and slab construction. 😆
just remember floating foundation means you're creating a home for wild life. Mice, raccoons, squirrels, rabbits, snakes etc. Even if you block off the sides some animals will dig underground to live under the floating foundation. I've seen mice eat and raccoons dig right through plywood flooring also.
*I've been watching your videos often on, I'm in California.* Keep up the good work That bless you keep up the good work right for now, I look forward to hear from you, Ken.
Did you use only four footings as well? I want to build an 8x12 and was told that I need 12 bloody blocks, while Jeff only use 4 on an even larger shed? I'm pretty confused right now.
Save yourself the aggravation and future issues. A bit more money up front, but have a concrete pad laid. Have the contractor or whomever lays the concrete add some anchor bolts and bolt your walls to it. Won’t rot over time.
I sure o enjoy your videos. What's funny is you do alot of grunting lol. Something we do as we get older, grunting helps us get things done wether we need to or not.
I like the idea for the footing bases but I would of had 3 per side an put noggins in between the joists and had 2 more bases in the middle just to spread the load and settlement once you put stuff in side.
That makes sense , that is the way i would do it as well. The perimeter wall is carrying the weight of the wall and the roof. A proper drawing is the best way to go.
Another comment said he added a camo block in the middle of the 16 foot span. Unsure of the up and down sides though, seems like an important step not to glaze over. I was shocked to think he was just using just 4 blocks for all that weight. Although he put rim joists on, I can imagine wear, weight, and tear will eventually sag the flow without more support except 4 blocks.
Safety glasses when cutting plywood or OSB. Pull a lil piece out your eye b4 you disagree. Dont stand behind saw. Pull that blade out your leg from it kicking back b4 you clown me. Other than that, i picked up several tips. Thanks!
Wood screw to join plate to joist ... Just something that I've done which works for me ( though it may appear unsightly ). I use a washer with the wood screw inwhich the head of the screw stays on the outside of the plate ( without sinking the head into the plate ) and PULLS the joist tighter into the plate.
I really enjoy your videos and as a single mom I look forward to building and renovating on our home with your help,but I also want to say the way you were holding that nail gun towards the end of the video,(even pointing at your abdomen) made me so anxious 😂
One more thing. If you decide to use a nail gun for nailing joists or studs, always start your nail pattern from the bottom and work up. That way you can move the hand that you're holding the lumber with away "before" you shoot that top nail. I have seen people shoot themselves in the hand when that top nail skims over the plate.
Hey Jeff! First of all, I want to say “Thank you!!” My handyman business has taken off and my quality of work is one of those reasons. Your videos have helped me to do things the right way and with every step and technique to produce a project that I can be proud of. Do you have, or could you make, a video on Reverse Osmosis system installations? Thank you and keep up the great content!! We all appreciate it!
@@Stevelemontrudy well, I’m a licensed R32 Handyman in Arizona. It means I can do jobs up to $5000 and below, and I’m insured and bonded. I stay away from flooring and wall tile, as I have a bad back. I stay with smaller 2-3 day jobs max. But other than that, if I can do it under my license and there is a comprehensive RUclips video that I can watch and learn the process, I can normally do it! That’s one of the reasons this channel has been such a great help!
@@grieser232 That's really cool. I have a handy-man background, but I don't have the courage to do it all on my own. I have a lot of respect for people who do. Maybe someday...Cheers and happy thanksgiving!
I thought when you showed the fasteners, you were going to use them. Is all of the lateral movement of the building going to be held by three screws through some 2x4s?
Man, this guy is the king of making it up as he goes, and making no effort toward finding best practices. Case in point: he thinks driving screws into end grain is stronger than toe nailing fasteners. That is framing 101. Not to say there isn't plenty more to be improved in this build. Follow his advice at your own risk. Sometimes there is a creative approach that can be honed into a workable solution, but it is lost frequently C grade hackery.
Really. Simpson probably has 5 structural engineers review and test their joist hanger screw pattern but 3 nails and a GRK screw must be superior... in Canada. ;-)
@@Sparisland, he also didn't size the beams appropriately to the span. He can say it's just a shed, and he isn't required to observe code because of the location, but if he isn't using code or engineering he's just guessing. Even if it was a deck it would be grossly undersized, and that wouldn't account for the weight of the walls and roof, or the, now relevant, shear loads. It is just a shed and you shouldn't overbuild it, but that doesn't mean you have to build it poorly.
Video mark 3:27 - You use the term "ridge beam" to describe what actually is a "rim joist". A ridge beam, not to be confused with a "ridge board", is a roof framing component. For further clarification, search this: "Ridge Beam vs. Ridge Board".
Thank you everyone for watching. If you enjoyed this videos, pleases subscribe. New videos of this epic shed build series come out every Saturday. In the meantime, you can watch the OG shed build 👉🏼ruclips.net/video/BLk_CAMmQPc/видео.html and Shed 2.0 👉🏼ruclips.net/video/p3Z2Bpez31c/видео.html Cheers!
I am learning the techniques that is being used to do the job.
Love your stuff down here in Elmira, NY ... You break things down so even goofs like myself can fallow.
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Got 2, well really 3 questions.
You are working on the premise that code is 10'x16' maximum exterior size. BUT you are going to be a little big.
How thick is your sheathing?
... Let's assume .5" --> example Smart Side ~7/16"
How thick will your trimming be?
... Let's assume .75" --> example 1x6 (or 1x4) #2 pine
.
So, you cut the floor joists at 9'6", with the 6" total for the rim joists. That will put you at exactly 10' before the siding and trim.
2 sides of siding = ~1"
2 sides of trim will = ~1.5"
So your total outside dimensions will be 10' 2.5" deep and 16' 2.5" wide.
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Is that something your code guy will freak over?
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Also, when I've built sheds, I line the corner seams, under the trim, with 5" wide butyl tape to seal the corner seam beneath the trim. It helps keep driving rain from getting under the trim and into the seam. 5" tape gives you 2.5" on either side of the seam.
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So, including the tape, and an anal code guy, wouldn't it have been better to cut the joists at 9' 3" & rim joists at 15' 9" to account for the siding, trim and sealing tape.
best pedagogy! thanks
990 2:52 ⁰p0🎉l😂❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ )]99. 9l
I like how Jeff makes a mistake and leaves it in the video, keeps real, and that he is doing everything from an Ontario perspective. Thanks Jeff , Great videos please keep them coming
I find it funny how often, when I'm preparing for a DIY project, that I am looking around and seeing different approaches, but I always come back to your channel for a kind of "reality check" to see what the best way is to do it.
His channel is my go to to learn everything to guts and remodel an old house we bought. One video I’m needing and not finding, is replacing the structural perimeter beams with an old dry stack limestone “foundation”.
I totally agree! And I'm a girlie girl having fun with projects. 😅
I concur
You mention over building your structures, to help them last longer I'm kind of the same way. One thing is I pay attention to specific details and one you overlooked that I do for a shed or deck is to remove the sod from under the deck area. You mentioned moisture from ground contact but there is also moisture that will dwell under the building just from the ground below it. Like if you park a car on the grass and leave it there for a few years it will be completely destroyed with rust under it. If you park the same car on top of a tarp on the grass the car will be considerably better condition after those same years. Clear the sod under the shed down to the hardpack and then lay some plastic sheeting and cover it with sand. This will eliminate the ground moisture from affecting the underside of your structure. This applies for pressure treated lumber as well because even pressure treated will last longer in a better environment and so will any nails and screws.
Would removing the sod underneath then applying a weed barrier with gravel on top be good to prolong the duration of the foundational structure?
@@edgararcega3046 yes remove the top soil just lay down plastic and fill with gravel or sand. Weeds wont grow under the shed without sunlight or water. You just want it to be as dry as possible and the shed floor will last almost forever which means longer than you are alive...
@@SmileyDave-h5z Edgar above asked about weed barrier which allows drainage. We think a plastic sheet will cause puddles and mosquitoes.
Not gonna lie, your son has come a long way learning with his legend of a dad. He quietly learns his lessons and I can tell he secretly enjoys it. Thanks for being such a great team. Especially the camera angles.
Quick tip for flushing the rim joist. If you put the screw or nail into the top of the inner joist and use the claws on your framing hammer to leverage the outer joist down (like you're trying to pull the screw) having the nail gun at the ready to nail when flush you don't have to worry about the angle screw holding the two boards apart if you happen to have to back the screw out a bit to flush up.
Holy shnikeys!!! That technique for pulling down the bow on the outside rim, that is mad genius! Every time I watch one of your videos I have a "HOLY SHNIKEYS!" moment or two!
I use a long clamp, or two.
Working on my own 12x16 shed now. I was shocked how close my foundation was to how you did it. Way to go
Great info, pulling the crown down on the outside joist with a screw was pretty cool.
Cheers John!
When you marked your rim joists at every 16 inches, your plywood would not end in the middle of a joist. The first joist needs to be marked at 15 1/4" from the end with the x to the right of it, then every 16" from the 15 1/4" mark in order for the plywood to end in the middle of a joist. I learned this the hard way this weekend while building the base for my 16' x 10' shed. I ended up just sistering a couple of joists onto the 2 locations where the plywood seams met to compensate. Love your videos and have watched this series at least 3 times and find it all super helpful. Just wanted to point this out so others don't miss that step. Same applies to wall framing and roof rafters. Measure out from the end of the wall/roof/floor at 12/16/24 then subtract 3/4" for your first mark, then normal distances from that mark (every 12/16/24). Unless I'm missing something :)
He must have done what you said, because his layout worked.
Jeff, love the way you show how to do a build, repair, etc. You not only teach but lead by example. I always come away from watching your videos with more than I start with. You are one of the best on RUclips if not the best as far as I am concerned sir.
I was two years old watching This Old House with my father. Still adore "home everything" and Jeff is so knowledgeable and down to earth. Love this.
Great video and great teaching. I appreciate the fact that everything doesn't always go right but you fix it and teach when you do it. Thank you!
I could see you, waiting in the foyer of a high-end restaurant, running into somebody with a construction t-shirt, and right then and there, you'd start drawing a diagram on the side of the restaurant wall! You draw them everywhere! Some people are addicted to tattoos, you are addicted to tattooing everything you build with! And somehow, I'm addicted to watching this all! GLORIOUS!!!
Big fan of yours Jeff. 10 x 16 is what im building right now. I went with 2 x 8 pressure treated for my joists and 9 holes in the ground filled with 40 inches of concrete to support the decking area.
Enjoyed this much. The greatest thing about it was the positive attitude towards the minor mistakes. Thx for sharing. I'm currently drawing up a shed (8'x12') I'm leaning towards this plan here for the base.
@06:00 the marker line on the saw table is smart, reminds me when I line up putter and golf ball.
Thanks Jeff !
I like the way that you think. I used the same flooring system on my shed 20 years ago using 3/4 inch plywood.
Over time the edge of the plywood bends [flexes] between the joists. In normal house building, there are two levels of flooring used with staggered edges so that doesn't become a problem, but neither one of us did that. I think some of my "Edge Flex" can be attributed to ground moisture seeping up [as dew dissipates from the ground and grass] over the years. I would suggest blocking where the edges of the plywood between joists. 2X4s or 2X3s would suffice to do the job.
Also, make sure the space between the fence and the building is large enough to get a mower back behind the shed. Using a string trimmer to cut the grass in back of the shed will get tiring after two months.
Moisture barrier underneath and block the seams so that there is no sag. When I replace sheetrock, I do the same thing so that all joints are backed by framing.
Jeff is jack of all trades.! LOL He can paint and he can build shed foundation. He pulled nails out of his pocket!!!
So awesome! Respect the hustling@!
The timing is impeccable. Just started thinking about building myself a wooden shed using what we call tuffblocks, and here you are doing exactly that. And as always, concisely and clearly explained.
I'm curious how many tuffblocks you used.
I'll be building a 10x16 deck for my wife's she-shed. This video is incredibly helpful; it changed how I was going to build it entirely. Thank you.
Happy to help
Good video. Thanks for being down to Earth and not overcomplicating the process needlessly.
Just like a cinematic gun shootout, you never seem to run out of nails in your nailer. xD nice work. I think this is going to be my next project because a storm destroyed my aluminum shed.
Practical and simple system of structure that some of us will use, because it looks possible and professional
Been enjoying this. I appreciate the balance of code vs reality vs manufacturer data. In the video you have 4 blocks and in further videos it's apparent that more were added. I might have missed that part. Anyway, can ya comment on how many you eventually found appropriate? I'm planning a 16x16 and very much agree that manufacturer data seems like crazy overkill. Just wanted your input on what you found to be a happy medium.
All the best.
Yes, block spacing/placement was one of the big reasons I watched this particular video. I'm watching other people, and the way they do it is pretty obviously complete overkill (e.g. a bunch of blocks beneath every joist). Still trying to figure out a spacing system that is realistic.
Nice looking job but a few things come to mind.... Please wear safety glasses when using a nail gun. That is a must. The top plywood should be "tongue and grove" edges. T&G is much stronger than butt joints. For me, I don't like using single joist under the plywood length's butt joints. I use a sistered joist (2 x joists) instead. Like you said, floating sheds in Ontario (and its frost) allows the shed to "float & sink". Since a floating shed (especially a loaded shed with heavy weight items) sinks and needs to be leveled every 5-10 years, also install "jack up" points at ends and middle of the frame. Just like jacking up a vehicle to replace its flat tire, make corner and middle "jack up" supports (on the frame's inside outer edge). Instead of having the deck blocks deep in the ground, add a bag of gravel, a 18/x18" patio stone under the deck blocks. Wider the grounds "touch area" the less natural frost sinking. Also, add a "double" 2x8 around the entire platform. Also... Higher the gap from ground to under frame, the more natural air ventilation - which means less wood rotting (from natural ground moisture). Keep shed's frame gap 12-16 inches off the ground, use a ramp for the door and install white plastic lattice (small holes) to allow air ventilation and keep most critters out. As you can tell, I've built many shed platforms / deck platforms and I hate (did I mention "hate") their long term maintenance / re-leveling tasks. Thus, I always build better with above tips....
Found my new favorite DIY channel. Thanks for clear to the point instructions and explanations
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That situation with the neighbour is right in every part of world. I am in Serbia, and I would also have that same problem. If I cross 1 inch, I am in trouble :D
Thanks for taking the time to put this vid together. Learned a lot. Very useful and practical. Cheers!
Learned so much in such a short time. Will use this for a shed and other projects. Thanks!
THE MAN, THE MYTH, THE LEGEND
Very nice filming. Love the low depth of field to pull the attention of the viewer to you instead of what's happening in the background.
That was the main reason why we built a fence first. Cheers!
Jeff I love watching you work! You give the "HOW and the Why's as you GO", it is
Great to see your son Matt working with you as well...
Thanks 👍Love Having Him on the Crew!
Currently building a 10x12 floating shed base out if pressure treated wood and 23/32 subfloor. Haven't had any help so far, my back us very upset at me. Fell asleep on the couch last night and woke up at 4:30 in the morning feeling like i got beat with a bat. Looking great so far though. My motorcycle will have a nice new home this weekend
Hi Jeff, Hope you’ll have a project in the nearest future in building something like this for a shed but in a steep slope at the back. Thanks so much.
Consider building the skids on top of those CAMO blocks as it offers opportunity for moving the shed later. Also, concealed joist hangers on the rim joists.
Its just a Shed !! Great workmanship well done.
I was at Reno Depot in Montreal and a 8x10 shed is going for $6500. I’m looking at building my own with this technique a 10x12. If I have any issues I’ll take a drive to Ottawa and pick your brain. Love your shed build. ❤❤❤
I learned some more. Just bought the CAMO footings for my VEVOR tent shed platform. A set of 8 from AMAZON for the 2 drop beams. I will now buy leveling almost powder-stone as a footing base. Many footings due to the organic soil. The platform is 8ft x 12ft and movable. Possible tree cutting in the future but too expensive for now. Three 4ft x 8ft removable panels across the drop beams. I hope someday to be a RUclips presenter narrating my thousand or so pictures. No time to do videos while doing my projects. On my drawings I show mid-span bridging or staggered tight fit blocking for joist spans greater than 8ft. It is also in my construction notes. I just bought the DeWalt drill & impact driver combo. Driving big screws is now easy. I now show more screw solutions on my drawings. I am now busy doing design and construction drawings for homeowners and builders. DATACAD 23, started with version 5 in 1995. Retirement age but still working.
All I can say I am glad I find your channel great job...
Regarding concreted-post discussion, wouldn't it be easier to set posts higher than you need them, set level marks on the posts, cut, add hardware and then put on your joists?
on the homestretch of my own 10x16. Thing is massive.
Totally love this guy. Great carpenter, great communicator.
I LOVE your videos! ❤ Fantastic demonstration of these plastic foundations & perfect timing! You are teaching me how to build, fix etc. Hey, I'm a girlie girl & I can do some of this too. Sometimes I get the neighbor kids to help a bit. These boys are awesome & they think I'm cool b/c I use tools. 😅 Now that's almost as fun as your videos. All the best to you & your family - from Virginia Beach, VA.
ah, yes. the patience only a father knows. well done.
One thing I like to do on decks or sheds that are a few inches to a foot off the ground is put down weed block and stones underneath.
Helps to keep the critters from getting too comfortable under there. 😉
Great vid! After watching this I think I'm taking the plunge and finally buying a cordless nail gun for my upcoming duck house.
Looks great but I would’ve killed off all the grass or vegetation under the shed and removed it or put plastic down with gravel or gravel over the dead vegetation with the weed fabric I think leaving the live vegetation underneath it’s just gonna give you problems in the long run. But other than that, I like what you’re doing and really like the camo block.
I'm in Central Oregon and in the middle of building a shed foundation using your instructions. It's been extremely helpful especially for a deck novice, and it's going great! Thank you!
Funny talking about slopes in the yards, I’m a speciality contractor and I bet you be surprised how many properties I’ve seen landscaped sloped towards the home! Some actually look like a house built down in a bowl! Personally I never understood how they get away with landscaping done like that? You know whoever owns the home going to have troubles with water getting into their foundation or worse basement End up having to dig deep trenches around the house and funnel the rain water away from the house! I don’t think most people think about that when they’re looking at buying a house? Know one guy that built a house down in a bowl and it started raining right after the house was finished and next thing they knew they had water coming up thru the floor. They didn’t install a sub pump to automatically drain the water when it senses water getting too high under the home’s structure. Unfortunately they learned they needed to install a sub pump under the house in the water and mud. Then had to replace all their hardwood floors that warped from all the water!
Btw, hope you don’t have chickens running around, they’ll love getting under your shed and making nests to hatch their eggs! I had to enclose all around my shed to keep the chickens from getting under the shed. Surprisingly the chickens dug 18-24” deep next to my shed to get back under the shed again. I ended up pouring cement around my shed in the ditch the chickens dug to keep the chickens out!
I had to do the same for rock squirrels digging under my slab. Guess they sense that my slab had a gap underneath due to adjustment give me a pier and slab construction. 😆
a memory about red green 😀 - this was an enjoyable instruction!
Best shed series/episodes out there
great idea using the 2x4s in leveling up
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful in guiding a recent project.
I’m planning this project for spring. Very helpful!
just remember floating foundation means you're creating a home for wild life. Mice, raccoons, squirrels, rabbits, snakes etc. Even if you block off the sides some animals will dig underground to live under the floating foundation. I've seen mice eat and raccoons dig right through plywood flooring also.
You can also use a long hand clamp as a jack to help lift corners incrementally. Or a car jack.
We put our joist hangers on the wood on saw stools lying on the flat .they also hang the joist when nailing together.Just a tip .
This sir is a an awesome video. Answered so many questions that I had in my mind.
*I've been watching your videos often on, I'm in California.* Keep up the good work
That bless you keep up the good work right for now, I look forward to hear from you, Ken.
You have helped me. Thank you. Not related to this video. But I helped my parents today and that was from knowledge you shared. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Very well done, sir. Makes me want to build a small shed for my tools within the next 3 weeks now...yeah, in the winter.
Thanks love the 16" on center mark tip
Built this foundation pretty much verbatim for a storage shed. Sturdy as can be, thanks.
Did you use only four footings as well? I want to build an 8x12 and was told that I need 12 bloody blocks, while Jeff only use 4 on an even larger shed? I'm pretty confused right now.
@@Cyberdine.Systems.Model-101 4 is more than enough. I will say adding the extra 2x10x12 to the front and back strengthens the whole thing immensely.
There has never been a time when I haven't learned something from Jeff...even just small tricks to make a build easier and more efficient.
Almost 3 million subscribers. Congratulations 🎉🎊🎈
Save yourself the aggravation and future issues. A bit more money up front, but have a concrete pad laid. Have the contractor or whomever lays the concrete add some anchor bolts and bolt your walls to it. Won’t rot over time.
been a little bit! I am sorry i missed your shows and I am glad to watch! shivering black bell thumbs up and hearts!
6:27 cumulative error has entered the chat.
29:10 that angled screw prevents the nails from closing the gap between the boards.
I sure o enjoy your videos. What's funny is you do alot of grunting lol.
Something we do as we get older, grunting helps us get things done wether we need to or not.
Dig down 2 feet around the outside and install 1/4" square mesh to keep critters from going under the deck.
I like the idea for the footing bases but I would of had 3 per side an put noggins in between the joists and had 2 more bases in the middle just to spread the load and settlement once you put stuff in side.
That makes sense , that is the way i would do it as well. The perimeter wall is carrying the weight of the wall and the roof. A proper drawing is the best way to go.
Another comment said he added a camo block in the middle of the 16 foot span. Unsure of the up and down sides though, seems like an important step not to glaze over. I was shocked to think he was just using just 4 blocks for all that weight. Although he put rim joists on, I can imagine wear, weight, and tear will eventually sag the flow without more support except 4 blocks.
Bless you and Ms. Snow You both are beautiful
Safety glasses when cutting plywood or OSB.
Pull a lil piece out your eye b4 you disagree.
Dont stand behind saw.
Pull that blade out your leg from it kicking back b4 you clown me.
Other than that, i picked up several tips. Thanks!
Must be Ottawa' Valley, you have some flat land. Im in the Highlands. I use posts cut to high for a base. Nice finding a local lad builder.
Looks awesome!
Fun to watch ! Cant wait for updates😊
More to come! Cheers!
Wood screw to join plate to joist ... Just something that I've done which works for me ( though it may appear unsightly ). I use a washer with the wood screw inwhich the head of the screw stays on the outside of the plate ( without sinking the head into the plate ) and PULLS the joist tighter into the plate.
Awesome! Nice video mgmt and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I really enjoy your videos and as a single mom I look forward to building and renovating on our home with your help,but I also want to say the way you were holding that nail gun towards the end of the video,(even pointing at your abdomen) made me so anxious 😂
One more thing. If you decide to use a nail gun for nailing joists or studs, always start your nail pattern from the bottom and work up. That way you can move the hand that you're holding the lumber with away "before" you shoot that top nail. I have seen people shoot themselves in the hand when that top nail skims over the plate.
Me too! Whew!
Thank you for the measure once tip. That is excellent.
Good basic advices for carpenters.
Man.. that laying the boards on top of each other and squaring the top two is so smart. Ive wasted so much time in my life measuring each board...
I did that measuring 16 times just a few days ago. Now, I'll be using this method...make myself look smart in front of my son 😆
Hey Jeff! First of all, I want to say “Thank you!!” My handyman business has taken off and my quality of work is one of those reasons. Your videos have helped me to do things the right way and with every step and technique to produce a project that I can be proud of.
Do you have, or could you make, a video on Reverse Osmosis system installations? Thank you and keep up the great content!! We all appreciate it!
Glad to help! Congrats on your success!
What kind of handy man jobs do you do?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you!!!
@@Stevelemontrudy well, I’m a licensed R32 Handyman in Arizona. It means I can do jobs up to $5000 and below, and I’m insured and bonded. I stay away from flooring and wall tile, as I have a bad back. I stay with smaller 2-3 day jobs max. But other than that, if I can do it under my license and there is a comprehensive RUclips video that I can watch and learn the process, I can normally do it! That’s one of the reasons this channel has been such a great help!
@@grieser232 That's really cool. I have a handy-man background, but I don't have the courage to do it all on my own. I have a lot of respect for people who do. Maybe someday...Cheers and happy thanksgiving!
Excellent video. Great tips-I&E
Ur amazing I love ur patience and Projects
I thought when you showed the fasteners, you were going to use them. Is all of the lateral movement of the building going to be held by three screws through some 2x4s?
Seems like a weak connection if your talking about rim joist to post.
Agreed. He talked about "overbuilding" but that seems to a key place where he didn't do that (unless I missed hardware or some other technique).
I was also confused by this. How is the structure attached to the 4x4
Man, this guy is the king of making it up as he goes, and making no effort toward finding best practices. Case in point: he thinks driving screws into end grain is stronger than toe nailing fasteners. That is framing 101. Not to say there isn't plenty more to be improved in this build.
Follow his advice at your own risk. Sometimes there is a creative approach that can be honed into a workable solution, but it is lost frequently C grade hackery.
Really. Simpson probably has 5 structural engineers review and test their joist hanger screw pattern but 3 nails and a GRK screw must be superior... in Canada. ;-)
@@Sparisland, he also didn't size the beams appropriately to the span. He can say it's just a shed, and he isn't required to observe code because of the location, but if he isn't using code or engineering he's just guessing. Even if it was a deck it would be grossly undersized, and that wouldn't account for the weight of the walls and roof, or the, now relevant, shear loads. It is just a shed and you shouldn't overbuild it, but that doesn't mean you have to build it poorly.
Nice video and good job to Max for them sweet B rolls 😌
Thank you 😋
you sir, are an education. please keep it up.
Looks like you got some cut n seal on there real good. Even got some on your willy. LOL great project, thank you for this tutorial.
I would put money on that shed moving in the next couple of years.
But does it matter?
@@fairgolfer perhaps not to you but it would to me.
if it's 16 on center, you measure 16 and mark 3/4 an inch back, draw line then X (to the right) for placement of joist or stud.
Invaluable information and advice.
excellent video, great communication
So much great content on this channel. Thanks for your video.
In my opinion, that new end cut seal does sweet FA. My kingdom for some old school creosote.
Video mark 3:27 - You use the term "ridge beam" to describe what actually is a "rim joist". A ridge beam, not to be confused with a "ridge board", is a roof framing component. For further clarification, search this: "Ridge Beam vs. Ridge Board".
DIY I like this!
I gotta redo my way too under construct shed with this base.
This was great, keep it up!
Very cool. Was surprised you didn't put blocking between joists?