Formlabs resins are formulated specifically for SLA laser and generally aren't compatible with MSLA or DLP machines. They also come in a special carton as Formlabs has a closed ecosystem.
We have a Form3 and use the CW40, and it will not hold a circle, shows build lines, fails about 70% of the time, if not more, to print anything that is cashable, then when it is cast (Indutherm MC 20, and many metal, silver, any gold, or PT900) it fails to generate usable pieces -- well, if we are luck 30% of the 3D printed pieces are okay and sellable. So I am wondering what Shp3D is doing different. The prints you show are good, and we have never gotten prints from this printer like that, even when it was new 3 years ago, and with a new tank and new resin cartridge. Thoughts?
The shop handled the supporting and printing for us so unfortunately we cannot recommend a specific print setting etc. It sounds like your having a lot of problems in all areas and honestly would probably be better if you had a chat with someone to diagnose your issues, as example photos etc will likely be necessary if there are so many errors occurring.
@@ClearMindJewellery we have. Formlabs merely shrugged,and said we 'don’t know and good luck'. We are now thinking since it is 3 years old that the laser is going out. Formlabs has only tested the longevity of the laser to last for 3 years. So we have pivoted, and have a dlp on order now that should be here soon, and we will start with PowerResins Dark, I believe from your review of PowerResins :) Thank you for your feed back, you have been helpful, and continue to be, on the castable resin front :)
Thats sad that they didn't get back to you with an effective answer. Never liked their printer to much because of how ecosystem based they are and from what your telling me my opinion is correct. The laser life span sound like a logical conclusion. We've honestly gone away form PowerResin as they are just so expensive and others have better solutions for a similar price (Bluecast) or a comparable resin for cheaper.
Thanks for the video! I’m trying to cast with this resin and getting bad surface quality. How do you implement the boric acid into the investment? Do you just mix the dry powder into the mix? Any help much appreciated!
First verify that your investment is meant for plastics, such as optima prestige or r&r other Plasticast, etc. if it is then add approximately 1% boric acid of the investment weight, to your investment, then mix as normal. Note that getting into a flask mixed with boric acid can be difficult. In this video we show quenching a boric acid flask where it has almost 0 movement. ruclips.net/video/PBh3r6VI0T4/видео.html
The test models we use are pre-made and downloadable from various platforms so people can recreate our results. When we create our own models we use Nomad and Shapr3D.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you for your reply, I am just getting into it I want to start with simple pendants and rings and work my way up to more complex designs with gem settings.
So I have a Formlabs printer and I'm not sure if I can use any other resin (such as blue cast), but how do you think this resin would compare to the blue cast resins or any equivalent brands?
You gotta be careful since Bluecast resin are mostly for LCD/DLP printer (only few version for SLA); and that Formlabs printer are mostly LFS (updated SLA based tech). So it might work but you need to tinker it on your own since it's not officially supported.
I spent $600 on this resin. It's terrible. Print qualities were bad and the casting was the worst I've ever seen. I used 4 different casting companies and it failed all the time. In 10kt,14kt, and 18kt. Waste of money
The casting may be more to do with the casting companies processes if they don't usually work with resin they may not have the proper investment on hand or their burnout may not be suitable. Worth a discussion the next time you send something out to a casting studio.
I appreciate that you point out the cost versus results are not a great reason to jump on the form platform.
Hey, thanks for the great review once again. You need to edit the middle of your video again, as the sound/video streams pop out of sync!
Is it possible to use this resin in printers of other brands? and how is it?
Formlabs resins are formulated specifically for SLA laser and generally aren't compatible with MSLA or DLP machines.
They also come in a special carton as Formlabs has a closed ecosystem.
We have a Form3 and use the CW40, and it will not hold a circle, shows build lines, fails about 70% of the time, if not more, to print anything that is cashable, then when it is cast (Indutherm MC 20, and many metal, silver, any gold, or PT900) it fails to generate usable pieces -- well, if we are luck 30% of the 3D printed pieces are okay and sellable. So I am wondering what Shp3D is doing different. The prints you show are good, and we have never gotten prints from this printer like that, even when it was new 3 years ago, and with a new tank and new resin cartridge. Thoughts?
The shop handled the supporting and printing for us so unfortunately we cannot recommend a specific print setting etc.
It sounds like your having a lot of problems in all areas and honestly would probably be better if you had a chat with someone to diagnose your issues, as example photos etc will likely be necessary if there are so many errors occurring.
@@ClearMindJewellery we have. Formlabs merely shrugged,and said we 'don’t know and good luck'. We are now thinking since it is 3 years old that the laser is going out. Formlabs has only tested the longevity of the laser to last for 3 years. So we have pivoted, and have a dlp on order now that should be here soon, and we will start with PowerResins Dark, I believe from your review of PowerResins :) Thank you for your feed back, you have been helpful, and continue to be, on the castable resin front :)
Thats sad that they didn't get back to you with an effective answer. Never liked their printer to much because of how ecosystem based they are and from what your telling me my opinion is correct. The laser life span sound like a logical conclusion.
We've honestly gone away form PowerResin as they are just so expensive and others have better solutions for a similar price (Bluecast) or a comparable resin for cheaper.
Thanks for the video! I’m trying to cast with this resin and getting bad surface quality. How do you implement the boric acid into the investment? Do you just mix the dry powder into the mix? Any help much appreciated!
First verify that your investment is meant for plastics, such as optima prestige or r&r other Plasticast, etc.
if it is then add approximately 1% boric acid of the investment weight, to your investment, then mix as normal.
Note that getting into a flask mixed with boric acid can be difficult.
In this video we show quenching a boric acid flask where it has almost 0 movement.
ruclips.net/video/PBh3r6VI0T4/видео.html
Thanks so much for the response! I’m using optima prestige! Do you just add the boric acid dry powder to the water?
Different individuals will add the boric acid to the water or to the investment powder. We add to the investment powder.
Hola for your resin model do you make it with nomad app?
The test models we use are pre-made and downloadable from various platforms so people can recreate our results.
When we create our own models we use Nomad and Shapr3D.
What is the most comparable resin printer combo? I don't have money for a form labs?
The most comparable resin would be a ResinWorks Easycast, printer might be the Sonic Mini 8k.
Depends what you want to print though.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you for your reply, I am just getting into it I want to start with simple pendants and rings and work my way up to more complex designs with gem settings.
the branded mask is dope
So I have a Formlabs printer and I'm not sure if I can use any other resin (such as blue cast), but how do you think this resin would compare to the blue cast resins or any equivalent brands?
You gotta be careful since Bluecast resin are mostly for LCD/DLP printer (only few version for SLA); and that Formlabs printer are mostly LFS (updated SLA based tech). So it might work but you need to tinker it on your own since it's not officially supported.
Please make video from 4:28 and 4:55 investment and powder purchase buy and make
Investment how to buy link
ruclips.net/video/Oe2wxE-fXmU/видео.html
Very interesting. Just audio and video are aut of sinc a bit. Cheers
pop gypsum powder this 4:55
I spent $600 on this resin. It's terrible. Print qualities were bad and the casting was the worst I've ever seen. I used 4 different casting companies and it failed all the time. In 10kt,14kt, and 18kt. Waste of money
The casting may be more to do with the casting companies processes if they don't usually work with resin they may not have the proper investment on hand or their burnout may not be suitable. Worth a discussion the next time you send something out to a casting studio.
Wearing a useless fabric mask always adds credibility to a presentation.