Do you think you could steam de-wax it out first (even partly)? My kiln doesn’t really like the de waxing part and gets very smoky so I tend to steam dewax it first
Hi I’m using a tabletop pro kiln ( oven) can you please explain the burnout schedule for this wax for me?having trouble understanding the program schedule . Like the start temp and time, hold time, rate of rise etc.can you simply it for me ?Than you very much.
Hello, we actually made a video about programming a kiln, ruclips.net/video/vvNbIgEcvyw/видео.html. And here is our recommended burnout schedule for this wax: 300°/hr ramp to 300°F - Hold 4hrs 550°/hr ramp to 700°F - Hold 3hrs 550°/hr ramp to 1400°F - Hold 4hrs We hope this information helps, but please let us know if you have any other questions.
At 9:56 he weighs the tree registering 15.95 grams. If he were to cast this in 14k yellow gold, what is the dwt needed. Is there any reference you can point to to convert grams to dwt of various precious metals?
From our tech team: A couple solutions for you. If you want everything in DWT weigh everything in DWT. So weigh your tree in DWT and then you don’t need to convert anything. You can also google Gram to DWT conversion and plug your numbers in. Here is one I found www.google.com/search?q=grams+to+dwt&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS992US992&ei=bb9iYtfNA4etqtsPs7uNiAk&oq=grams+to+dwt&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQARgAMgUIABCRAjIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB46BwgAEEcQsANKBAhBGABKBAhGGABQygZYmApgoR1oAXABeACAAVCIAZMBkgEBMpgBAKABAcgBCMABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
Hello, to answer your question our Tech Team has suggested this video and this article on the subject. www.riogrande.com/article?name=Neycraft-Seasoning-A-Crucible-VID , www.riogrande.com/article?name=Season-Clay-Crusibles-Before-Casing-HT . We hope you find these helpful. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions!
Sometimes when I cast with material with gold. I get very poor results. Any rings with settings have clumps of material around the setting. I can't figure out what it is. It looks like if the piece is "sweating" inside of the investment. Is it not curing properly? Does it need a uv light?
Are the sprues and tree made from the same CW40 as the prints? I have a casting house that cannot melt their wax sprue to the print (or at least that's what they are telling me). How can I resolve this?
Richard, our Tech Team says that in the video we are using traditional sprue wax for the main tree and feed sprues attached to the resin. We prefer to use regular sprue wax because that part burns out much faster and easier, allowing more oxygen flow to the print itself resulting in a cleaner burnout and a higher quality casting. We hope this answers your question. Please feel free to reach out with any other quesions!
Hi I use your [Rio Vacuum Table for Mold-Making, Investing and Casting( #: 705012)]. When using investing mode, my flask didn't bomb, just boiled. That worried me. So I had problems with porosity. When investing, max 29.5 psi.when casting,30psi. Does 'Not bombing' make a problem? Thanks a lot.
@@johnlee379 Hello John, we spoke with our Tech Team. They they were not exactly sure what you meant with the phrase the "flask didnl't bomb", but they did also that the investment should rise and then fall in the mixing bowl. After you pour it into the flask and apply a vacuum again the investment should rise again and boil. If your getting 29.5, the Tech Team says they are not really sure you can get much better. They also said to make sure that your water powder ratios are accurate. Using distilled water can help if your having issues with the investment. We hope this is helpful to you! Let us know if you have any other questions!
@@RioGrande1944 Thanks -flask means “mixed investment” -not bombing just boiling -use:distilled water and deionized water -38:100 -investing mode 29.6 max not 30psi -casting mode 30 -vacuum machine- 1/2HP and 5.0cfm Because of not bombing, I changed several things. I know what is’bombing’ and ‘boiling’ What do I change to get a good casting? Thanks again
Hello John, our Tech Team provided this link to a video for mixing investment. We hope this is helpful! www.romanoff.com/magenew/media/manuals/76-106-NY-Romanoff.pdf
Hello, aboslutely we can! Is there anything else that you would like to see as far as Formlabs is concerned or were just needing more information about purple Formlabs casting?
@@RioGrande1944 I bought the formlabs 3 in Rio Grande, it is great, however, it has been difficult for us to find the optimal conditions for casting using this resin, since the surface quality obtained is not the usual one (normal wax). I understand this is related with the expansion of the resin, the type of investment, its burning and the size of the piece (ashes). Any tip that improves the process is greatly appreciated!
@@LoretoML9986 We can definitely help you on this. We will get your questions over to our Jewelry Tech. They are great and will let us know what they advise and recommend. We will let you know as soon as they get back to us! Thank you for watching!
@@LoretoML9986 Hello, our Tech Team said that they would recommend using plasticast investment for your investment. They also included a burnout schedule that is usually a great starting place for burnouts. We hope this is helpful for you and let us know if you have any other questions! Thanks for the support and the awesome questions! Formlabs Castable Wax 40 Resin Burnout Schedule: RAMP RATE (DEGREES/HR) TEMPERATURE (°F) HOLD (HRS.) 1 350/hr 300F 4:00 2 500/hr 700F 2:00 3 500/hr 900F 2:00 4 500/hr 1400F 4:00 5 FULL 1050F 18:00 (long hold)
Nice work and great explanation, I have a question: Is the 3D printer behind you easy to use in terms of designing jewelry on the computer, or do I need a training course?
Hello, our Tech Team wanted you to know that the Form 3 is very easy to learn. When you boot up the machine for the first time, it will walk you through setup and how to install the build platform, resin tray, and cartridge. Same with the software. It will walk you through the various sections the first time you use it. We are always available to help if you have any questions on setup or operation. We hope this was helpful to you and please feel free to reach out!
Hi there! Good question. It really just depends. If the ring is hollowed out, it is more difficult. Our Jewelry Tech Team member said he also likes to have a feed sprue that is wax, because it will melt and run out sooner than the resin material allowing air to circulate more. The most important thing is to try to attach and feed at the heaviest part of the design, but can certainly model your feed sprues into the print if you like too. :)
Hello, we are not sure where in the video you are seeing this, if you could provide a time stamp we would be better able to answer your question. Thank you!
@@chic2560 Hello, our Tech Team got bak to us and they said that while the metal is cooling, it’s exposed to oxygen and continues to oxidize. He is placing a charcoal block on top of the flask to absorb the oxygen before it can cause the metal to oxidize resulting in a casting that requires less cleanup. They also said that putting a charcoal block over the button end will help eat oxygen and reduce firescale. We hope this was helpful to you and let us know if you have any other questions! Thank you for watching!
Do you think you could steam de-wax it out first (even partly)? My kiln doesn’t really like the de waxing part and gets very smoky so I tend to steam dewax it first
Hi there! may I ask what solution you dip the casting tree into in minute 12:15? thanks in advance!
Nice video. What layer thickness are the rings printed with.
Hi I’m using a tabletop pro kiln ( oven) can you please explain the burnout schedule for this wax for me?having trouble understanding the program schedule . Like the start temp and time, hold time, rate of rise etc.can you simply it for me ?Than you very much.
Hello, we actually made a video about programming a kiln, ruclips.net/video/vvNbIgEcvyw/видео.html.
And here is our recommended burnout schedule for this wax:
300°/hr ramp to 300°F - Hold 4hrs
550°/hr ramp to 700°F - Hold 3hrs
550°/hr ramp to 1400°F - Hold 4hrs
We hope this information helps, but please let us know if you have any other questions.
Thank you!! This video is very helpful! :) I hace a question, the burn out temperature is the same as regular injected wax?
You are welcome! Thank you for watching.
You are incredibly knowledgeable and this video is great. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
At 9:56 he weighs the tree registering 15.95 grams. If he were to cast this in 14k yellow gold, what is the dwt needed. Is there any reference you can point to to convert grams to dwt of various precious metals?
From our tech team: A couple solutions for you. If you want everything in DWT weigh everything in DWT. So weigh your tree in DWT and then you don’t need to convert anything.
You can also google Gram to DWT conversion and plug your numbers in. Here is one I found www.google.com/search?q=grams+to+dwt&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS992US992&ei=bb9iYtfNA4etqtsPs7uNiAk&oq=grams+to+dwt&gs_lcp=Cgxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAQARgAMgUIABCRAjIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB4yBggAEBYQHjIGCAAQFhAeMgYIABAWEB46BwgAEEcQsANKBAhBGABKBAhGGABQygZYmApgoR1oAXABeACAAVCIAZMBkgEBMpgBAKABAcgBCMABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
Amazing detailed video. Many Thanks
You are quite welcome! We are glad you liked the video!
Does the resin shrink? In stone size
Hi, do I get better results with CW 40 using Formlabs 3 instead of Formlabs 2, or it makes no difference? Thank you
What is that liquid exactly where the metal is put in? (12:16)
Hello, that is a pickle solution used to remove surface oxidation. You can find it here, ow.ly/ttOk50HGMeA
@@RioGrande1944 Many thanks!
I love all your videos, and I have question sir, do I have to glaze the centrifugal crucible and what the easy way to do it? Please
Hello, we will pass your question on to our Tech Team and get you an answer!
Hello, to answer your question our Tech Team has suggested this video and this article on the subject. www.riogrande.com/article?name=Neycraft-Seasoning-A-Crucible-VID , www.riogrande.com/article?name=Season-Clay-Crusibles-Before-Casing-HT . We hope you find these helpful. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions!
Sometimes when I cast with material with gold. I get very poor results. Any rings with settings have clumps of material around the setting. I can't figure out what it is. It looks like if the piece is "sweating" inside of the investment. Is it not curing properly? Does it need a uv light?
did you solve this issue?
Are the sprues and tree made from the same CW40 as the prints? I have a casting house that cannot melt their wax sprue to the print (or at least that's what they are telling me). How can I resolve this?
Richard, we will ask our Tech Team and get back to you.
Richard, our Tech Team says that in the video we are using traditional sprue wax for the main tree and feed sprues attached to the resin. We prefer to use regular sprue wax because that part burns out much faster and easier, allowing more oxygen flow to the print itself resulting in a cleaner burnout and a higher quality casting. We hope this answers your question. Please feel free to reach out with any other quesions!
Hi
I use your [Rio Vacuum Table for Mold-Making, Investing and Casting( #: 705012)].
When using investing mode, my flask didn't bomb, just boiled. That worried me.
So I had problems with porosity.
When investing, max 29.5 psi.when casting,30psi.
Does 'Not bombing' make a problem?
Thanks a lot.
Hello John, we will pass your question along to our Tech Team and get you an answer!
@@RioGrande1944 Thanks
@@johnlee379 Hello John, we spoke with our Tech Team. They they were not exactly sure what you meant with the phrase the "flask didnl't bomb", but they did also that the investment should rise and then fall in the mixing bowl. After you pour it into the flask and apply a vacuum again the investment should rise again and boil. If your getting 29.5, the Tech Team says they are not really sure you can get much better. They also said to make sure that your water powder ratios are accurate. Using distilled water can help if your having issues with the investment. We hope this is helpful to you! Let us know if you have any other questions!
@@RioGrande1944 Thanks
-flask means “mixed investment”
-not bombing just boiling
-use:distilled water and deionized water
-38:100
-investing mode 29.6 max not 30psi
-casting mode 30
-vacuum machine- 1/2HP and 5.0cfm
Because of not bombing, I changed several things. I know what is’bombing’ and ‘boiling’
What do I change to get a good casting?
Thanks again
Hi
What ratio did you use for investment anf water?
Hi John, we will ask our Tech Team and get you an expert answer!
Hello John, our Tech Team provided this link to a video for mixing investment. We hope this is helpful! www.romanoff.com/magenew/media/manuals/76-106-NY-Romanoff.pdf
@@RioGrande1944 Thank you for your recommendation.
@@johnlee379 Not a problem!
Thanks for the video! Can you make a video talking about purple Formlabs casting? We have some problems with quality of the surface. Thank you!
Hello, aboslutely we can! Is there anything else that you would like to see as far as Formlabs is concerned or were just needing more information about purple Formlabs casting?
@@RioGrande1944 I bought the formlabs 3 in Rio Grande, it is great, however, it has been difficult for us to find the optimal conditions for casting using this resin, since the surface quality obtained is not the usual one (normal wax). I understand this is related with the expansion of the resin, the type of investment, its burning and the size of the piece (ashes). Any tip that improves the process is greatly appreciated!
@@LoretoML9986 We can definitely help you on this. We will get your questions over to our Jewelry Tech. They are great and will let us know what they advise and recommend. We will let you know as soon as they get back to us! Thank you for watching!
@@LoretoML9986 Hello, our Tech Team said that they would recommend using plasticast investment for your investment. They also included a burnout schedule that is usually a great starting place for burnouts. We hope this is helpful for you and let us know if you have any other questions! Thanks for the support and the awesome questions!
Formlabs Castable Wax 40 Resin Burnout Schedule:
RAMP RATE (DEGREES/HR) TEMPERATURE (°F) HOLD (HRS.)
1 350/hr 300F 4:00
2 500/hr 700F 2:00
3 500/hr 900F 2:00
4 500/hr 1400F 4:00
5 FULL 1050F 18:00 (long hold)
@@RioGrande1944 Thank you!!! 🤗🤗🤗
Nice work and great explanation, I have a question: Is the 3D printer behind you easy to use in terms of designing jewelry on the computer, or do I need a training course?
Hello, we will pass your question on to our Tech Team and we will get back to you with an answer. Thank you for watching!
Hello, our Tech Team wanted you to know that the Form 3 is very easy to learn. When you boot up the machine for the first time, it will walk you through setup and how to install the build platform, resin tray, and cartridge. Same with the software. It will walk you through the various sections the first time you use it. We are always available to help if you have any questions on setup or operation. We hope this was helpful to you and please feel free to reach out!
Where does the wax go?
Thank you for the question! It melts and leaves the shape in the mold.
Isn't it smarter to have the feed sprue 3D printed with the ring and have it attach to the inside of the ring?
Hi there! Good question. It really just depends. If the ring is hollowed out, it is more difficult. Our Jewelry Tech Team member said he also likes to have a feed sprue that is wax, because it will melt and run out sooner than the resin material allowing air to circulate more. The most important thing is to try to attach and feed at the heaviest part of the design, but can certainly model your feed sprues into the print if you like too. :)
Thank you for sharing…instructive ❤️❤️❤️
Thank you for your support!
thanks .you
Thank you for watching!
Nice ring
Thank you for your support; and thank you for watching!
❤
why did you cover with coal?
Hello, we will ask our Tech Team and get back to you with a professional answer!
Hello, we are not sure where in the video you are seeing this, if you could provide a time stamp we would be better able to answer your question. Thank you!
12:02-12:04
@@chic2560 Hello, our Tech Team got bak to us and they said that while the metal is cooling, it’s exposed to oxygen and continues to oxidize. He is placing a charcoal block on top of the flask to absorb the oxygen before it can cause the metal to oxidize resulting in a casting that requires less cleanup. They also said that putting a charcoal block over the button end will help eat oxygen and reduce firescale. We hope this was helpful to you and let us know if you have any other questions! Thank you for watching!
Thx
Nothing about shrinkage here. Nice infomercial, though.